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AlexDeGruven posted:It's probably brand-specific, a name for filler primer, which fills in minor imperfections while leaving details. i am aware of filler primer and purchase it by the case, thank you. he specifically said " Krylon ultra flat Camouflage primer " which does not appear to exist. But if this is better, i'd like to try it.
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Sep 18, 2022 17:22
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Deviant posted:Do you mean camouflage paint? I don't see a primer in this style. Yeah paint, sorry. It’s fine for a primer.
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Sep 18, 2022 17:38
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great. the lowes down the road has it, so i'm going to try it for a change. because i hate sanding oh i hate it so much
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Sep 18, 2022 17:50
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Amen to that The only thing any of us really have in this short life is our time. And I am NOT spending mine on loving sanding
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Sep 18, 2022 17:53
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*turns of the power sander* WHAT?
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Sep 18, 2022 21:21
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queeb posted:If you guys were going to add a third 3d printer to your setup what would it be? I have a mini and an ender 3. I was looking at a mk3s but I could get 2.5 ender 3 v2s for that kind of money. I'm mainly printing dnd terrain so just speed and volume is all I need ender max neo, it is a bit more expensive, and you probably won't use the Z axis, but you can print 2-3 terrain pieces in one go, rather than 1-2, so it would be like buying a third and fourth printer, for not much more money, plus, uses only about 10% more desk space than a single "regular" ender 3 v2 I love my ender 3 v2, but I really regret not getting the larger build plate "max" model
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Sep 18, 2022 21:27
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The Eyes Have It posted:Amen to that https://saillifeshop.com/products/short-sleeve-unisex-t-shirt-1 
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Sep 18, 2022 21:29
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Hadlock posted:ender max neo, it is a bit more expensive, and you probably won't use the Z axis, but you can print 2-3 terrain pieces in one go, rather than 1-2, so it would be like buying a third and fourth printer, for not much more money, plus, uses only about 10% more desk space than a single "regular" ender 3 v2 Hmm, the ender 3 here on Amazon is 290, and a ender neo max is 579, I could just buy 2 ender 3s for that haha. Though I'd need to buy 2 cl touch for those which would add like 150
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Sep 18, 2022 22:16
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queeb posted:Hmm, the ender 3 here on Amazon is 290, and a ender neo max is 579, I could just buy 2 ender 3s for that haha. https://store.creality.com/products...display_nav_1.1 $369 here, comes with creality touch installed
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Sep 18, 2022 22:19
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I wouldn't have guessed you're a man of taste. I am literally watching todays episode as I write this reply.
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Sep 19, 2022 00:07
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Do FDM terrain printer folks turn off combing? I just turned it off and it seems to have really impacted, positively, an under-extrusion issue I seemed to be having that would occur immediately after a travel. I am wondering if this change was the fix to that problem or perhaps the problem is something else and this fix is masking the right change?
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Sep 19, 2022 02:49
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Nerobro posted:I wouldn't have guessed you're a man of taste. I am literally watching todays episode as I write this reply. Steady diet of sail life, sv delos and la vagabond was pretty much how I survived the first 18 months of the pandemic Hadlock fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Sep 19, 2022 |
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Sep 19, 2022 08:48
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I'm thinking about picking up an open box elegoo saturn s on ebay, is that going to be more of a headache than the savings are worth?
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Sep 19, 2022 20:04
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Ghetto SuperCzar posted:I'm thinking about picking up an open box elegoo saturn s on ebay, is that going to be more of a headache than the savings are worth? How much are you saving? But also there's almost nothing that can go wrong on resin printers, so your worst-case scenario is probably replacing an $80 screen. They're really, really simple machines.
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Sep 20, 2022 01:00
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been fuckin with an ender3 for a few months and its been going pretty ok. i mostly just print wargame terrain so its been working real fuckin well for that. i mostly just download poo poo off thingiverse and print, but i'd love any advice or tips on making that workflow better.
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Sep 20, 2022 17:29
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Casual Encountess posted:been fuckin with an ender3 for a few months and its been going pretty ok. i mostly just print wargame terrain so its been working real fuckin well for that. i mostly just download poo poo off thingiverse and print, but i'd love any advice or tips on making that workflow better. What are you looking to improve? Should be file > slice > print > ??? > profit
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Sep 20, 2022 18:04
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thingiverse increasingly sucks, look at printables and whatever other ones there are
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Sep 20, 2022 18:33
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Just received my Saturn 2 and the first print failed. I had the Z height too high. The tank clean feature worked really well and my next print was successful. The quality is really good on the machine. When it comes to curing is it possible to over cure? If so, what does that look like? Are my pieces in danger if I am playing in a room with natural light? Also, I printed some hollow pieces to save resin but it almost seems like it is impossible to fully cure the resin inside, even with the little uv wand. If I leave them out in the sun for a few hours will that help?
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Sep 20, 2022 18:38
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Vaporware posted:If i want to repurpose my RPI, is there an export settings in octoprint so I can move all that stuff to the Octo4A app? I don't normally think of a backup as hardware portable, but maybe that would work? This does not seem to be possible. Octo4A doesn't have the same backup/recovery menu. Also it completely fails to install for me, something to do with can't properly write to the filesystem on my old galaxy S9. but lol I'm not flashing a firmware just for fun. I'll wait for a new RPI to show up, then move my SD card.
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Sep 20, 2022 19:16
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Just received my Saturn 2 and the first print failed. I had the Z height too high. The tank clean feature worked really well and my next print was successful. The quality is really good on the machine. Over curing might look different for each resin. Use that failed print to find out, that's what I did. Left a failed print on my back porch for most of a sunny day. It got really brittle and started looking like it had frosted tips. Once you give them a coat of primer they should be just fine used in doors, I doubt much UV makes it through. I usually only hollow out the seriously chonky bois. Like, really big. Only one I've done so far has been a Tyranid Maleceptor torso, for reference.
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Sep 20, 2022 19:21
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Doctor Zero posted:What are you looking to improve? Should be file > slice > print > ??? > profit Javid posted:thingiverse increasingly sucks, look at printables and whatever other ones there are so like im trying to put together parts for a trainyard/depot terrain set and i havent found much outside of thingiverse to that end. ive seen a couple cool kickstarters and patreons but where else should i be looking for terrain? also re: scaling. how the gently caress do i do this like a grown up. my caveman method is loading a random space marine sti and putting it next to the item to see how it looks but, for example, whats the average size of a building for 30mm scale dudes?
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Sep 20, 2022 19:25
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Just received my Saturn 2 and the first print failed. I had the Z height too high. The tank clean feature worked really well and my next print was successful. The quality is really good on the machine. It is possible to over cure, but you’d have to cure for hours/and or in bright direct sunlight. Models get really brittle and I’ve seen thin parts’ layers separate. Unless you display un- primed models on a window sill, don’t worry too much about sunlight. How do you know the inside isn’t cured? As long as ALL the resin and IPA is drained out, it won’t matter since you won’t be licking the inside of it or anything. I hope.  resin or IPA you don’t get out will eventually eat through or crack the model, so you really have to make sure it’s all gone. I just use a strong UV flashlight and shine it around. Seems to be fine. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Sep 20, 2022 |
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Sep 20, 2022 19:30
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Casual Encountess posted:so like im trying to put together parts for a trainyard/depot terrain set and i havent found much outside of thingiverse to that end. ive seen a couple cool kickstarters and patreons but where else should i be looking for terrain? There's not a whole lot for realistic train stuff, thingiverse has most of the good models for that. One guy just released a crazy accurate loader crane. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5473719 Scaling is as always one magic formula (Model Size) x Scale = (new size). ex: I want matchbox scale (~1/60) but only have HO scale  1/87 * X = 1/60 (87/1)* (1/87)* X = (87/1) * (1/60) X = 87/60 = 1.45 or 145% so 1/87 x 1.45 = 1/60 (HO scale) x (145% in math) = (matchbox scale) But f math that only helps if the STL you were given has a scale and is actually TO SCALE. hint they were all made in tinkercad and are wildly out of scale. use my scale ruler I made instead. I tried to make a lot of common scales as example STLs so you don't have to mess with openSCAD. it will convert real sizes to scale sizes and you can load it into your slicer to show dimensions. I need to make a printables listing for it, but ugh effort https://github.com/VaporwareII/AFreeScale
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Sep 20, 2022 20:14
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Vaporware posted:
 thats what im trying to figure out. like this was a cool kickstarter that seemed like it would give me some great fuckin ideas but im unsure how to tell if my ender3 can handle all that AND if its all at a scale appropriate for 40k
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Sep 20, 2022 20:28
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Casual Encountess posted:
I've printed so much Flatline City stuff, it's a great set I love it. A lot of these buildings are from Flatline City  
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Sep 20, 2022 20:33
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Yeah I get that. That ruler I posted has both real scale and what the scale height is. So if you load the STL you can stand that ruler next to the building and be like "huh I don't think the doors should only be 1m tall, this seems out of scale." but that's kind of what you're doing already with the scale marine. In general, screwing around with the master scale based on a bulk property like the top surface height has straightened out the weird containers and things I try to print. it's only got to be close enough unless you're a rivet counter and 3D printed stuff just isn't there for terrain. especially not for Filament printers at 0.2 mm layer heights. 
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Sep 20, 2022 20:41
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that poo poo kicks im glad it prints well. yeah i basically have two terrain sets i'm trying to build: a train depot/railyard and a green city block. im bringing some big simcity vibes to the city set. i want to build a green city so theres a bunch of subway stops im printing rn, I want to make an elevated rail section, and im trying to figure out how to do a modular boulevard block with bike lanes and greenscapes and poo poo. just making GBS threads things out on this 3d printer for a few months has really made me go diorama crazy since with enough effort and enough pla i can make both those sets happen.
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Sep 20, 2022 20:43
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I had to purposely slow down how much I was printing. Even with this dirt simple paint scheme, it takes me longer to get things painted than printed, because printing is so passive.
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Sep 20, 2022 20:55
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I've been obsessed with openlock as a starting point, but freewheeling from the bottom up instead of having a master plan. Basically I can get all the scatter terrain I want, but it backfires when you end up with a ton of cool detail pieces but no larger scene to connect them. Openlock helps with that because I can just reconfigure what I already printed. Even my earliest prints hook up fine since I didn't bother to set up a magnet system or anything. https://twitter.com/Vapourware/status/1568626656306429961 https://twitter.com/Vapourware/status/1568429782043344896 Chainclaw posted:I had to purposely slow down how much I was printing. Even with this dirt simple paint scheme, it takes me longer to get things painted than printed, because printing is so passive. That's where I am. I could churn out a few more baseplates, but now it's about designing the walls and corridors I'm interested in having.
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Sep 20, 2022 20:58
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Chainclaw posted:I've printed so much Flatline City stuff, it's a great set I love it. Holy poo poo; these look amazing!
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Sep 20, 2022 21:46
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Just remember, when using Space Marines to check your scale, that they're 7-8 feet tall (fanci bois like Primarchs are bigger).
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Sep 20, 2022 22:15
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Ok, doing good on my next prints, almost all the parts for my next model came out great, but I had a single failure. The Saturn 2 has a nice clean bed feature and I used that, but at some point some resin got on the LCD and is now dried there. Is there a best way to remove it? I have heard conflicting things online.
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Sep 20, 2022 23:09
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I had success with a method I felt safe trying before hearing back. I filled up a sponge with really hot water and laid it on top of the resin splotch for about 10 minutes to get it nice and warm and it came right up with gust a gentle nudge of a plastic scraper. The stuff I am printing looks just as good as GW stuff, I am really amazed. Excluding the thousand bucks in equipment and whatnot I am saving a ton of money in 3d printing. I like FDM because that is a lot more set and go. This resin printing, I really have to devote kind of a whole room to the set up. I don't think I could do it without having an extra room. It generates a fuckton of waste too. I used to do radiological control work and I carried over a lot of the work practices. What should you do with the waste? I have a trash can full of gloves, funnels, paper towels, and supports and other resin bits. Should I take the whole trash can outside and leave it for a day and then bag it? Or just bag it straight out?
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Sep 21, 2022 00:48
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Since we are talking wargaming minis, are there any fdm friendly 40k space marine knock offs? I don’t want to print actual Warhammer figures and chomp their IP, just like “armored space guy” figures.
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Sep 21, 2022 01:05
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I had success with a method I felt safe trying before hearing back. I filled up a sponge with really hot water and laid it on top of the resin splotch for about 10 minutes to get it nice and warm and it came right up with gust a gentle nudge of a plastic scraper. If you don't have a screen protector get one now. Like, right now. Don't print a single thing until you have one it *WILL* save you an rear end ton of heartache at some point I guarantee it. For waste, yeah I tend to leave it sit outside on our porch for as long as it takes me to remember it's out there and let it get blasted with sunlight. That guarantees any liquid resin has been cured, and once it's cured it's basically just plastic so dispose of it however you would plastic. I admittedly have a bit of a twinge at the idea of throwing away any plastics even saran wrap or soda bottles since, ya know, the environment and microplastics and so on, but modern life is what it is.
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Sep 21, 2022 01:18
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When the resin dries, does it ever look shiny/somewhat wet, but dry to the touch? There are a few spots on the mini that look wet but are not actually wet, when tested with a tissue. It was tripping me up earlier.
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Sep 21, 2022 02:07
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I don't do a lot of miniature stuff but Tom from Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a little video about the current humble bundle with Fat Dragon Games models. He runs Fat Dragon Games afaik, so it's relevant to his channel and he goes over what's included: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nO_tn2u8YRs
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Sep 21, 2022 05:29
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IncredibleIgloo posted:What should you do with the waste? I have a trash can full of gloves, funnels, paper towels, and supports and other resin bits. Should I take the whole trash can outside and leave it for a day and then bag it? Or just bag it straight out? I have a waste cure box I made out of sheets of foam insulation I had laying around, and cut a hole in the top for two plug in UV lights. The big square ones. I stick my waste crap in there for a while, turn it over, repeat. Then throw it away. just make sure to make the 'door' and walls leakproof with masking tape so you don't accidentally cure poo poo around it you don't want cured. The other option is to get clear trash bags, throw everything in that, put it outside in the sun and go out and turn it and shake it every so often. Then toss it. You know its working if you get condensation on the inside from the heat. IncredibleIgloo posted:When the resin dries, does it ever look shiny/somewhat wet, but dry to the touch? There are a few spots on the mini that look wet but are not actually wet, when tested with a tissue. It was tripping me up earlier. Yep. it's fine and primer will cover it. If it bothers you, you can rub it with alcohol on a paper towel, or give it a light sanding to buff it a little.
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Sep 21, 2022 13:48
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is silk filament just trash or something? I was having some massive jamming issues with it and was going to tune the printer. but I switched over to some pla+ and everything's working fine again...
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Sep 21, 2022 14:49
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 lmao rip 87% of a 12 hour print how do i even diagnose this? from here it basically seems like a wizard did it
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Sep 21, 2022 14:54
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