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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


First door glass went in OK.




On the second door I'm having trouble with the lock not engaging. This one feels like a manufacturing fault, you can see the mark on the plastic wrap where the bolt is lining up with, i.e. right in between the two slots. I'll talk to the seller.



Also, a reminder that being lazy because you're tired leads to bad shortcuts which leads to mistakes.



On the whole, though.

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CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006


drat, that sucks. Looks good overall though! Are you plasterboarding the inside after insulation?

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
What is that? Cracked glass?

Twenty Four
Dec 21, 2008


NotJustANumber99 posted:

What is that? Cracked glass?

Indeed. I might be jealous of you. Shattered is the real problem though, finding tiny fragments years later, and it never ends, especially in automotive.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


CancerCakes posted:

Are you plasterboarding the inside after insulation?

I haven't fully decided what I'm doing yet, but it won't be plasterboard/plaster.

Twenty Four posted:

Indeed. I might be jealous of you. Shattered is the real problem though, finding tiny fragments years later, and it never ends, especially in automotive.

This strangely makes me feel a bit better.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


My old civic has doubled in value since I bought it so I went out today while it was still sunny to get some photos for a listing, but then decided I want to keep it and went for a drive instead, so for now at least expect a similar length thread revamping that once the house is done, so, 5 to 10 years from now.

SoylentCola
Mar 21, 2001

Ultra Carp

Jaded Burnout posted:

I haven't fully decided what I'm doing yet, but it won't be plasterboard/plaster.
Wattle and Daub all the way

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


There's already enough insulation going in the walls that it'll be reasonably quiet outside when running the tools, but al those flat surfaces are going to make it hell inside, which is OK because ear protection but it would be nice to have it a bit nicer an environment. But I don't know how much I can be hosed to do the walls in a way that absorbs sound well, and then it's like do I board the walls and THEN put on compressed wool sheet or leave it open and mount structural things a different way, or just do a few sound panels, and if I'm boarding the wall visibly then I don't want to just use OSB or whatever so then I'm buying some form of plywood.

So yeah, I dunno.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Just wear ear pro when running the loud poo poo, use walls for mounting various storage solutions, I don't think I've ever seen a wood or machine shop on the youtubes where they've tried to install sound deadening.

Computer viking
May 30, 2011
Now with less breakage.

tangy yet delightful posted:

Just wear ear pro when running the loud poo poo, use walls for mounting various storage solutions, I don't think I've ever seen a wood or machine shop on the youtubes where they've tried to install sound deadening.

Though now I'm kind of wondering what a full youtuber style "cover all wall surfaces in acoustic tiles" treatment would do. Besides being a nightmare to dust, of course.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Pegboard all the way. Then you can hang poo poo everywhere.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I hate pegboard.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
I'm intending to put fermacell board up in my plant room, lots of positive aspects, screw into it and its very supportive. No idea still how you're supposed to finish it or the joints.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


NotJustANumber99 posted:

I'm intending to put fermacell board up in my plant room, lots of positive aspects, screw into it and its very supportive. No idea still how you're supposed to finish it or the joints.

Always had you pegged as more of an incel.

Joking aside, looks interesting.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
please dont peg me... although i guess running out of options so... whatevs

Good luck getting the fermacell. I asked buildbase for it and theyve quoted me for this instead

GTEC 2400x1200x12.5mm Multicheck Universal Board

I havent looked into it yet

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Jaded Burnout posted:

I hate pegboard.

OK, then that slotted board they use in retail shops instead.
Or plywood and French clear strips all the way down.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

There's already enough insulation going in the walls that it'll be reasonably quiet outside when running the tools, but al those flat surfaces are going to make it hell inside, which is OK because ear protection but it would be nice to have it a bit nicer an environment. But I don't know how much I can be hosed to do the walls in a way that absorbs sound well, and then it's like do I board the walls and THEN put on compressed wool sheet or leave it open and mount structural things a different way, or just do a few sound panels, and if I'm boarding the wall visibly then I don't want to just use OSB or whatever so then I'm buying some form of plywood.

So yeah, I dunno.
I'd do at least 3/8" metric equivalent plywood sheathing instead of drywall/plasterboard because its so much easier to screw into to mount stuff wherever you want. No idea if it's available in the UK, but homasote/celotex panels are fairly cheap and somewhat sound deadening, and you can screw through them into the plywood sheathing to hang stuff easily.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I would use OSB or if I could afford it, plywood on all the walls. Then paint all the walls white.

Then I would simply make tool holders as needed and screw them into the walls. It's IMO the best way, custom tool holders for everything takes a while, but oyu can make them yourself and it's supremely flexible. Only downside is that it leaves screw holes in walls when you move things about, but I don't care about that in a shop environment. But you can probably fill the holes with putty.

Eventually as the walls fill with tool holders and shelves, they soften the acoustics of the room.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


His Divine Shadow posted:

I would use OSB or if I could afford it, plywood on all the walls. Then paint all the walls white.

Then I would simply make tool holders as needed and screw them into the walls. It's IMO the best way, custom tool holders for everything takes a while, but oyu can make them yourself and it's supremely flexible. Only downside is that it leaves screw holes in walls when you move things about, but I don't care about that in a shop environment. But you can probably fill the holes with putty.

Eventually as the walls fill with tool holders and shelves, they soften the acoustics of the room.

That was my general plan, OSB is just so ugly and ply so expensive. I might OSB and muffle the ceiling and then ply/paint the walls.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
funky orange painted osb

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Jaded Burnout posted:

That was my general plan, OSB is just so ugly and ply so expensive. I might OSB and muffle the ceiling and then ply/paint the walls.

Can you use OSB and then put 3mm ply over the top to make it less ugly?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Drywall over OSB is another possibility, then just screw through the drywall into the OSB for holding power.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Tomarse posted:

Can you use OSB and then put 3mm ply over the top to make it less ugly?

Perhaps! Though I think the price difference isn't that big. Not many places sell birch ply that thin I think? I'm sure I can find some combination. Like a hardwood ply maybe.

Also loving hell birch ply has gone up in price again! I bought two full birch ply sheets last year with intent to make some table saw sleds etc and they were about £40 each, now they're 140. I guess I'll save them for actual furniture.

This seems reasonably priced for a BB face:
https://fulhamtimber.co.uk/2440x1220x12mm-hardwood-wbp-plywood-bb-cc-en314-2-ce2/

NotJustANumber99 posted:

funky orange painted osb

Simone Giertz tried this to make OSB less ugly and it didn't work.

Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Sep 19, 2022

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Birch ply for workshop walls seems very OTT! stick with the standard Hardwood WBP stuff. It looks the same once you paint it.

Since you have all those studs to screw to, you could just clad it all with 3.6mm (£13.50/sheet here), and then simply just screw any shelves/tool boards into the studs.
Even with 12mm you are going to be stud-hunting to fit anything heavy..

I'm not sure what your layout plans are but i assume that atleast one wall is going to be mainly shelves/storage - where you can just use 3mm and affix the supports to the studs, and one wall is likely to end up as workbench where you can have 3mm behind the bench and just put a sheet of 12mm above it for tool storage.
You could even just use 3mm and pattress board behind it in key locations.

My garage/workshop is bolt-together sectional concrete panels so i can only use the bolts to mount anything and i haven't struggled with using it even when i can only use batons or sheets mounted to those bolts.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


The interior sheathing is also structural to a degree. The price isn’t that much more.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting

His Divine Shadow posted:

Drywall over OSB is another possibility, then just screw through the drywall into the OSB for holding power.

I did this in the barn i did for my parents. I think it worked well. Able to buy cheap thin plasterboard too. Still need to plaster the joints though which is not for everyone.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Today's objective was to get the dehumidifier out to the workshop and crack open some of the packs of insulation, so if there's any moisture still trapped in them it can get gone before I start fitting them.



Unfortunately the hose was not in the unit, which would've allowed me to set it up fully unattended. I did think this might be the case, I've no idea where the tubing might be, it'll just have to run to the tank for now while I order some in.

I set it on a moderate "overnight" setting and got to opening the bales, targeting the ones least touched by tooth or claw, since I want the most intact panels for the roof. I also moved a couple of panels that had been sat in my utility room for a year.




That'll do for starters, though I did move a few bales that I suspected were holding moisture under them, which they were.



I'm sure there's more, but I'll just work my way through them all.

I was being fairly cavalier about this stuff since it's not fibreglass, but given the hacking cough and itchy skin I got afterwards I should probably take it more seriously next time.

While I was reviewing these photos I did notice that I'd left the plug out of the tank so any extracted water was going to just run out onto the floor. Had to chuck some shoes on and go sort that out, knowing my luck we'd get a thunderstorm overnight.

I'm back to work tomorrow so this is the last of the daily updates, it'll been weekends at best for a while now.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Rock wool always made me itch way, way worse than fiberglass. It wasn't until years later that I learned it had the opposite reputation. Complete mystery to me.

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



If your dehumidifier is anything like mine, any old garden hose would fit it.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Boiler service done, £80, also happened to fix an issue I was having with it. A bit of inside info from the company, apparently Worcester rarely check if you have the required yearly service, only that you've got the most recent one, so I can still get warranty repairs done if needed (I missed a couple of years).

Also, the door company is going to send someone out to look at the closing issue since they reckon it's a manufacturing issue, i.e. that someone put the stay in slightly the wrong place.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Jaded Burnout posted:

Also, the door company is going to send someone out to look at the closing issue since they reckon it's a manufacturing issue, i.e. that someone put the stay in slightly the wrong place.

I've just looked at their rates for "actually we've decided this was an installation issue after all" and cancelled the call out. I'm not risking having to pay someone £350 to move a piece of metal 10mm.

I'll need to figure the best way to mill out some aluminium in-situ but I'm sure I can figure something out.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting
why cancel though?

if they lie and say its your fault then you maybe have to mill it out yourself.

if not they fix it at their own cost?

you wont be on the hook for 350quid just cos they come out surely?

Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

why cancel though?

if they lie and say its your fault then you maybe have to mill it out yourself.

if not they fix it at their own cost?

you wont be on the hook for 350quid just cos they come out surely?

This is a thing internet providers in the US try to pull

"ok FINE we will send a tech to look at your net outage, but if we conclude it's not our fault we are billing you hundreds of dollars for the visit. Are you SURE you want us to come out?"

I get that it's expensive for them to roll a truck when the real problem was the dog unplugged grandpa's router or whatever. But it's some real dystopian Corporate Overlords poo poo

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


It is exactly that, yes. If it is determined to be an installation issue then I’m on the hook for an hourly rate (including travel time) plus a mileage fee, and they’re 200 miles away.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

Jaded Burnout posted:

It is exactly that, yes. If it is determined to be an installation issue then I’m on the hook for an hourly rate (including travel time) plus a mileage fee, and they’re 200 miles away.

Well you paid an exorbitant amount for the doors, the guy practically said it sounds like manufacturing defect…don’t let them scare you.

Also when the goons visit the completed house will you be providing us a break room with snacks and refreshments?

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Jaded Burnout posted:


I'll need to figure the best way to mill out some aluminium in-situ but I'm sure I can figure something out.

Dremel. With a 3D printed router collar if you can get one.

ChickenOfTomorrow
Nov 11, 2012

god damn it, you've got to be kind

Jaded Burnout posted:

It is exactly that, yes. If it is determined to be an installation issue then I’m on the hook for an hourly rate (including travel time) plus a mileage fee, and they’re 200 miles away.

You could just... not pay

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


After some pressing they asked for some photos and measurements to demonstrate it's not an installation issue, so we may be able to bypass this.

everdave posted:

Well you paid an exorbitant amount for the doors, the guy practically said it sounds like manufacturing defect…don’t let them scare you.

They said explicitly that the factory thinks it's a manufacturing defect, but it's just not worth taking on the risk vs doing it myself, on the offchance that they pull some bullshit or I did actually make some mistake I don't know about.

everdave posted:

Also when the goons visit the completed house will you be providing us a break room with snacks and refreshments?

Yeah, there's two mcdonalds nearby.


This was my thinking too, I have one unopened from years ago.

Rapulum_Dei posted:

With a 3D printed router collar if you can get one.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this, though.

ChickenOfTomorrow posted:

You could just... not pay

I mean that's true of all contractual obligations, but usually not recommended.

NotJustANumber99
Feb 15, 2012

somehow that last av was even worse than your posting

Jaded Burnout posted:


I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this, though.


Like a bespoke template for the door frame profile that lets you only Dremel the bit you want I guess? And 3d printed.

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I'm sure a lil cut-off disc will do the job.

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