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small butter
Oct 8, 2011

H110Hawk posted:

I feel like sometimes you can buy kits to redo the guts of those. Never done it, never seen it done. Your best bet is to have a plumber swap those out with quarter turns. Regardless you need to have the main water to your house off while it's done.

Thanks. I live in a condo and can't find the main water valve. The plumber couldn't find it last time, either! I should ask my neighbors.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

small butter posted:

Thanks. I live in a condo and can't find the main water valve. The plumber couldn't find it last time, either! I should ask my neighbors.

You should ask your hoa board if they have plans or an idea of where it is. It's time to go on a hunt now before you NEED IT OH GOD 5/8" OF PIPE CAN PUT OUT SO MUCH WATER AAHHHHHHHHHHH. :v:

At worst call the water company and ask where the meter is, there ought to be a shutoff there.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Sep 20, 2022

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Jenkl posted:

Your assessment is accurate ge 2 is a great choice. If you really want to save a couple bucks and don't mind the smell or cure time ge 1 is fine.

A 1/2" gap may call for some backer rod or a couple applications of the caulk.

Most kinds of elastomeric or silicone-modified product will be easier to apply and clean up after but isn't likely to work as well or last as long (most grout-colour matched caulks fall into this category). I'd avoid for your primary tub, even if some of them stretch better (so could be useful for that big gap).

Tight, thanks for the tips! I think the gap is 1/2" at its widest - seems the tiling may have been installed at a slight angle compared to the tub... :sigh:

This is just a temporary measure until we redo my bathroom flooring, so I'm not super worried (at the moment, haven't pulled up the old caulk yet so who knows what horrors await...) about just filling the gap with caulk. I do know about backer rods and if when I remove everything it is a huge gap I'm going to get on that. I'll also compare GE1 vs GE2, I do want a faster cure time I think but if it's not too much worse but a bit cheaper I may go with it.

How many caulk tubes should I buy? I was thinking 2? I'm going to redo all around the tub, but I've never caulked before so I can't estimate an amount..

QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

I always use the highest spin cycle available in our washer to get as much moisture out as possible. I'm not sure why that isn't the default, in our washer it makes a noticeable difference and only takes 5 minutes longer on the higher spin speed

Our washer and dryer are in sort of a mud/utility room with some shelving and whatnot, when we completely re-did our master closet I moved the old wire shelf + clothes bar down into the mud room and now I use it for hanging laundry. Seems ideal for stuff that's already mostly-dry. I put a moisture meter in there and it seems to raise the level only around 5% so long as we keep the door open

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020
Probation
Can't post for 4 hours!

H110Hawk posted:

You should ask your hoa board if they have plans or an idea of where it is. It's time to go on a hunt now before you NEED IT OH GOD 5/8" OF PIPE CAN PUT OUT SO MUCH WATER AAHHHHHHHHHHH. :v:

At worst call the water company and ask where the meter is, there ought to be a shutoff there.

This is real critical. Imagine water absolutely gushing out causing $XXXX in damage per minute to your and other units, and being unable to find the shutoff. Nightmare fuel!

I am lucky I have a shutoff inside my unit but other condos are not set up that way. Even other condo units in my same building.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

Johnny Truant posted:

How many caulk tubes should I buy? I was thinking 2? I'm going to redo all around the tub, but I've never caulked before so I can't estimate an amount..

1 is probably fine.

Coverage estimates are usually provided, check the tubes, google it, or find the technical data sheet (TDS) and it will provide a coverage estimate. It'll say something like like 40 ft with an 1/8" bead.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Inner Light posted:

This is real critical. Imagine water absolutely gushing out causing $XXXX in damage per minute to your and other units, and being unable to find the shutoff. Nightmare fuel!

I am lucky I have a shutoff inside my unit but other condos are not set up that way. Even other condo units in my same building.

Not a bad idea to just always have a couple 3/8" and/or 1/2" sharkbite "end cap" fittings lying around for emergencies. Cut off what you have to and shove that fucker on there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvl4n9obTsU

GREAT idea? No.
AN idea? Yes.

Edit: Oh, I should have kept watching, a sharkbite hose bib fitting makes a bit more sense, less splashback, and greater chance it will hold since it's a proper valve closing off the water.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

DrBouvenstein posted:

GREAT idea? No.
AN idea? Yes.

Edit: Oh, I should have kept watching, a sharkbite hose bib fitting makes a bit more sense, less splashback, and greater chance it will hold since it's a proper valve closing off the water.

Yeah, this. I keep a 1/2" and a 3/4" in my emergency bag for exactly this reason. Same with a 1/2 and 3/4" PEX valve.

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug

DrBouvenstein posted:

Not a bad idea to just always have a couple 3/8" and/or 1/2" sharkbite "end cap" fittings lying around for emergencies. Cut off what you have to and shove that fucker on there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvl4n9obTsU

GREAT idea? No.
AN idea? Yes.

Edit: Oh, I should have kept watching, a sharkbite hose bib fitting makes a bit more sense, less splashback, and greater chance it will hold since it's a proper valve closing off the water.

I could have used this about 4 days ago. I know whats in my wall! It's 1/2"! It was not 1/2" And I had no 3/8" sharkbites so a night of no water was not fun. But I now know Home Depot's open at 6.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Inner Light posted:

This is real critical. Imagine water absolutely gushing out causing $XXXX in damage per minute to your and other units, and being unable to find the shutoff. Nightmare fuel!

I am lucky I have a shutoff inside my unit but other condos are not set up that way. Even other condo units in my same building.

Then there's that time a 36" main let go in downtown Philadelphia (my photos):

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

Then there's that time a 36" main let go in downtown Philadelphia (my photos):



So hard to keep track, but was that summer 2018?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Yep.

Ruined my summer, we insured about a third of the businesses there. I shot those (they're stitched together) standing outside of a hair salon that had no coverage for this (very limited - cheap - commercial policy). The guy would not leave his shop until the L&I & the cops made him go. The sidewalk was cracking out front.

One of the fun parts of being a commercial adjuster is going where the public ain't allowed.

I am probably mis-remembering the size of the main - it was at least 16-inches. The crater was a good 20' deep and took out a ton of buried infrastructure.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 21, 2022

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.


Well, gently caress.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Aw gently caress, when was asbestos outlawed because my house is full of popcorn ceiling (1988 build).

Edit: 1989…loving cool. I don’t recall this ever being brought up during the inspection.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Just the ceiling in a closet, right? That shouldn't be too bad.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

DrBouvenstein posted:



Well, gently caress.

Were you in the process of trying to replace your ceiling?

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Motronic posted:

Just the ceiling in a closet, right? That shouldn't be too bad.

It's on The ceiling of the bathroom closet now, but my plan was to remove that closet. It makes the bathroom too cramped. That would have entailed scraping off the popcorn bits and then skim coating that corner.

I'm guessing the best way to deal with it is...cover ceiling with 1/4" drywall?

Edit: But in good news the stuff I thought might have asbestos (kitchen and bathroom floors, or more likely the mastic) is asbestos free.

I can also assume the popcorn ceiling in the hallway closet has asbestos, but that closet isn't going anywhere.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

DrBouvenstein posted:

It's on The ceiling of the bathroom closet now, but my plan was to remove that closet. It makes the bathroom too cramped. That would have entailed scraping off the popcorn bits and then skim coating that corner.

I can also assume the popcorn ceiling in the hallway closet has asbestos, but that closet isn't going anywhere.

You have to disclose it now ("have to") until you get it professionally remediated. If you choose to go that route I would have them get ALL the asbestos in your house in one fell swoop, or at least all the popcorn.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Sharpie "asbestos" on it and slap some drywall over it. No need to bother remdiating it if you're not going to disturb it. Don't worry about your home value unless you're selling imminently.

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

DrBouvenstein posted:



Well, gently caress.

Lol a company said our house had asbestos on popcorn that was installed in 2000 (bu in a house that was built when asbestos could have been in it). That would have been a huge loving big deal so we roped in the local government and suddenly the company tested it again and what do you know they made a mistake and gave a full refund.

So its possible they just lazily looked at the construction date and didnt bother testing.

Myron Baloney
Mar 19, 2002

Emitting dimensions are swallowing you
Goddamn son of a gently caress. This is what you say when you're dumb enough to buy a house, noticing that the previous owner doesn't know poo poo about poo poo, and you think you're smart so you stipulate, among other things, service/inspection on the furnace. But you forget to ask to have them look at the motherfuck son of a bitch mini-split upstairs. Then you look inside it once you're in the house and see 4 cups of black mold on every surface in there. To clean it I have to completely disassemble it lmao. They had infants in this house in the room adjacent to this thing, how are they alive.

Lord Wexia
Sep 27, 2005

Boo zombie apocalypse.
Hooray beer!
I replaced two compression angle stops on toilets in my house (built early 90s). On both of the copper stubs, I had to hack off the ferrule because the copper pipe was bulging around both sides of the ring. It looked like a wedding band on a fat guy’s finger.

Because of the bulge, I couldn’t get a new compression fit to seal. I ended up using shark bite on both and they seem to hold.

What would cause that kind of deformity in a copper supply line? And on two toilets in two different parts of the house? Internet suggests a freeze, which I guess is possible but I am in the south so it’s not like it’s all that cold for very long here unless there was an extended power outage. Even then, one of the toilets was in the interior plumbing stack in the center of the house.

Whoreson Welles
Mar 4, 2015

ON TO THE NEXT PAGE!
Let's talk about grout, bay-bee.

Gotta seal the grout in our new bathroom shower. Is it really as easy as just applying sealer on the grout between the large subway tiles, letting it sit for a bit, then wiping the excess off? Any other nuance I should know about? Our shower floor is a small chevron pattern, could I get away with just spreading sealer over the entire thing then wiping it off?

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

Vim Fuego posted:

Fixed! It wasn't the heating element, it was the thermal fuse. Which I replaced. But I'm suspicious why it blew. If it goes again that indicates an overheating condition. I cleaned out the inside of the dryer as much as I could with a shopvac so hopefully that relieves anything caused by excess lint.

Dryer is broken again, yay (:hmmno:)

So I'll open it up again and diagnose it. If it's the thermal fuse again then I guess I should what, replace the heating element too?

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

DrBouvenstein posted:



Well, gently caress.
We had our attic abated for asbestos vermiculite a year ago for $1,500 bucks. I bet two closet ceilings wouldn't cost any more than that.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Tunicate posted:

Lol a company said our house had asbestos on popcorn that was installed in 2000 (bu in a house that was built when asbestos could have been in it). That would have been a huge loving big deal so we roped in the local government and suddenly the company tested it again and what do you know they made a mistake and gave a full refund.

So its possible they just lazily looked at the construction date and didnt bother testing.

Well, it was one of those mail in tests, so unless they went above and beyond and did a title search or something, I doubt they'd know when it was constructed. I don't recall putting that info in.

spf3million posted:

We had our attic abated for asbestos vermiculite a year ago for $1,500 bucks. I bet two closet ceilings wouldn't cost any more than that.

I don't have the time to get in touch with one, schedule, etc...

Covering seems almost easiest? But on the other hand, hanging plastic on the walls of the closet, another later of plastic on the door of the bathroom, soaking the gently caress out of it, and scraping it off into a bag while wearing a respirator and tyvek suit is maybe easier so I don't have to hang ceiling drywall, and figure out how to redo the corners where the shower liner thing meets the ceiling.

DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Sep 22, 2022

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gozB0wS-Gx8

Maybe an answer to the mystery

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

DrBouvenstein posted:

Well, it was one of those mail in tests, so unless they went above and beyond and did a title search or something, I doubt they'd know when it was constructed. I don't recall putting that info in.

I don't have the time to get in touch with one, schedule, etc...

Covering seems almost easiest? But on the other hand, hanging plastic on the walls of the closet, another later of plastic on the door of the bathroom, soaking the gently caress out of it, and scraping it off into a bag while wearing a respirator and tyvek suit is maybe easier so I don't have to hang ceiling drywall, and figure out how to redo the corners where the shower liner thing meets the ceiling.

By the letter of the law, even properly concealing asbestos is an asbestos abatement activity and would fall under federal/state regulations regarding training, licensing, worker protection, etc. So if you care, putting up drywall requires a professional to do it and requires the same EPA or state notification. Popcorn ceilings are surfacing, so you aren’t really going to run into any states that have more lax regulations than federal for it.

The exception might be if you’re a homeowner working in your own home and the area is small enough that it doesn’t require notification, but the asbestos worker would still need to be otherwise qualified and follow regulations. You’d have to check locally to see what that threshold is. It’s usually small but a closet might trip it. EPA notifications are 10 day if this work requires one. I don’t know if any states that are longer than that, but states can have different (but not less stringent) asbestos programs.

All of that only matters if you care about stuff like that, but the regulations about surfacing aren’t as flexible as they are with other kinds of ACM. It’s also frustrating because if you were 1% asbestos instead of 2% it’s not regulated (in many states).

If you decide to spray and scrape yourself, think about disposal, too. There might be another human being in between your garbage bag and the landfill who isn’t getting trained or paid to handle asbestos. Or there might not be, I don’t know what your trash situation is.

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

DrBouvenstein posted:

Well, it was one of those mail in tests, so unless they went above and beyond and did a title search or something, I doubt they'd know when it was constructed. I don't recall putting that info in.

they could look up the address on zillow

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
Looks like as a homeowner, and because it's such a small area, I can remove it myself with basically the procedure I said above. I don't need a full decom set up, just have to isolate it from the rest of the house. I just have to be sure the plastic sheeting I line the wall/floor with us 6 Mill, the floor gets double lined, and it gets double bagged w/ 6 mill as well and labeled.

The problem is I thought our local waste transfer stations take it when it's bagged and labeled as such... But they don't. I'll have to call an independent trash hauler OR drive like 2 hours to a small landfill that still takes it.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
So, um, as a homeowner who ripped out an entire 1,000 sq foot basement worth of popcorn ceiling that was put up in 1978 without any though to asbestos, how hosed am I?

Unfortunately this was several years ago now so there's no chance of getting a sample for testing.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

PremiumSupport posted:

So, um, as a homeowner who ripped out an entire 1,000 sq foot basement worth of popcorn ceiling that was put up in 1978 without any though to asbestos, how hosed am I?

Unfortunately this was several years ago now so there's no chance of getting a sample for testing.

Go scrape out some dusty crud from your air ducts. :v: Or get like, up on top of cabinets and stuff, places you never dust. Do you have any remaining popcorn in the rest of the house?

Did you wear a P100 or at least N95 mask? Did you filter the air? Did you contain it at all?

Either way if you're curious go to a pulmonologist and get a chest x-ray.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

PremiumSupport posted:

So, um, as a homeowner who ripped out an entire 1,000 sq foot basement worth of popcorn ceiling that was put up in 1978 without any though to asbestos, how hosed am I?

Unfortunately this was several years ago now so there's no chance of getting a sample for testing.

Health-wise? I wouldn’t worry. 1978 is right on the borderline, but popcorn ceilings are highly suspect. One single acute exposure isn’t the same thing as chronic exposure. If you smoked cigarettes for a while it’s more risky.

Now, if you were puffing butts while abating asbestos surfacing without respiratory protection and using dry methods…

H110Hawk posted:

Either way if you're curious go to a pulmonologist and get a chest x-ray.

Unless this happed 20 years ago an X-ray might show something, but I wouldn’t think to trace it to a single recent exposure. OP could have hosed up lungs for completely unrelated reasons.

BigFactory fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Sep 22, 2022

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BigFactory posted:

Health-wise? I wouldn’t worry. 1978 is right on the borderline, but popcorn ceilings are highly suspect. One single acute exposure isn’t the same thing as chronic exposure. If you smoked cigarettes for a while it’s more risky.

Now, if you were puffing butts while abating asbestos surfacing without respiratory protection and using dry methods…

Unless this happed 20 years ago an X-ray might show something, but I wouldn’t think to trace it to a single recent exposure. OP could have hosed up lungs for completely unrelated reasons.

Yeah if they wore basically any PPE for "dusty silicate containing fine dust" (drywall, plaster) or lead (did you test the paint?) the asbestos isn't going to kill them. If they didn't, didn't contain any dust from the rest of the house,and didn't test for lead it's probably worth a quick check. Especially if they have kids.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
Nope, no PPE, no containment, nothing.

It was a rush job to get it down and out of the way so HVAC contractors could come and put in actual HVAC air handling equipment. Prior to, the house was heated via baseboard electric and cooled by a single inadequate window AC unit.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

H110Hawk posted:

Yeah if they wore basically any PPE for "dusty silicate containing fine dust" (drywall, plaster) or lead (did you test the paint?) the asbestos isn't going to kill them. If they didn't, didn't contain any dust from the rest of the house,and didn't test for lead it's probably worth a quick check. Especially if they have kids.

A single exposure to asbestos isn’t going to kill you either way, no more than smoking for a year is going to kill you. It’s not good for you, you should avoid it, you definitely shouldn’t make a habit of it without training and protection, but it’s not going to kill you.

If this happened very recently I would diligently clean that space using a wet vac if it’s carpeted and wet wiping all surfaces. If it was 5 years ago carry on.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BigFactory posted:

A single exposure to asbestos isn’t going to kill you either way, no more than smoking for a year is going to kill you. It’s not good for you, you should avoid it, you definitely shouldn’t make a habit of it without training and protection, but it’s not going to kill you.

I only mean if they want to know, a chest xray will probably tell them. They're very low ionizing radiation these days.

Yeah don't make a habit of not wearing a respirator when bashing up dusty stuff asbestos or not. P100's are a great way to not have to deal with mysterious lung issues. It's trivially preventable permanent damage to your lungs. You know how at the end of the day you had to cough up a bunch of mysterious stuff? Not good. Hell even an n95 will get, well, most of it, but a p100 will make even "clean" air feel dirty it's quite amazing.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

I'm just thinking of the slum I grew up in and how when the popcorn ceiling started falling off and the landlord didn't want to do anything about it, we scraped/sanded off the rest. :gonk:

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy

BonerGhost posted:

I'm just thinking of the slum I grew up in and how when the popcorn ceiling started falling off and the landlord didn't want to do anything about it, we scraped/sanded off the rest. :gonk:

I've got that going on with the bathroom ceiling right now. I've used three buckets of popcorn patch then after it dried I sealed it with spraycans of Kilz, but the shower steam eventually loosens it after a few months and bits fall again. Is there anything mold-proof like Kilz but also more condensation resistant?

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El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Zero VGS posted:

I've got that going on with the bathroom ceiling right now. I've used three buckets of popcorn patch then after it dried I sealed it with spraycans of Kilz, but the shower steam eventually loosens it after a few months and bits fall again. Is there anything mold-proof like Kilz but also more condensation resistant?

If there's no vent or window in the bathroom there's nothing to truly stop it. You can buy a dehumidifier though and that can help a bit.

Also, I think of kilz as a primer and I wouldn't put it on last. I'd put it on and then hit it with a more expensive latex topcoat.

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