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CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


brugroffil posted:

Yeah my great grandpa was born in 1899 so it's a strong possibility. I'm not sure if I have some or if my dad still has them all, but we also have some of his radiator shop tools from the early 20th century. It includes leather working tools because that's what gaskets were made from then!

I've also got a lot of my grandpa's tools, and he was an auto mechanic from the 50's until the late 80's or early 90's. I need to take some pictures and post them here for help identifying some of the ones I have no idea about.

e: based on that site, it's a type 11 (3 patent dates, small knob), and dates from 1910-1918.

What I see on ebay right now puts that model of plane at above USD$300 when in good condition

e. that was a quick glance, anyway. There are some listed for less - still a great find

CommonShore fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Sep 11, 2022

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Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
My wife has a Frisker axe with a fiberglass handle from before we were married. I need to sharpen this thing, it’s dull and chipped. I have got flat file, angle grinder and a bench vice. I am just using it to split fire wood. Do I really need a wet stone or bench grinder?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
I would clamp it in the vice and go at it with the file. Angle grinder might work but I would be worried about one tiny twitch loving it up. Maybe if you will have to remove a lot of metal to get rid of any notches.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Angle grinder with a flap disc would be my method with those tools. An abrasive grinding disc might overheat the edge, flap disc is less likely to overheat.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Do very light passes with a flap disc or stick to the file TBH. If it's mangled enough get a good bastard file (pferd are good quality and easy enough to find) to do the bulk.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

brugroffil posted:

Was sorting through a drawer in an inherited tool chest and came across some planes. Either my grandpa's or great grandpa's stuff. They seem to be in decent condition and the blades are nice and sharp, but I'd love to clean them up. What's my best route?

The big one is marked Bailey No.6, the other just says "made in USA."


That is rad. There's room in my heart for all kinds of tools but old tools just hit differently. My grandfather was a lifelong carpenter and an amazing craftsman and I would love to have some of his old tools from when he passed ~15 years ago. Guy was like an analog-era laser CNC machine with a hand saw and could make cuts faster and more accurate than I can with a circular saw.
He was born in 1923, and spent the war building airfields and bases for the US Army both stateside and in Europe. He was from a small farming community, and he and his brothers had a reputation with the neighbors as a builder. Times were tough on the home front for many people, and being a generous guy he offered use of his tools (and source of income!) to neighbors, family and friends while he was gone. His mother said that keeping track of those tools was the hardest thing she has ever done in her life :v:

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


canyoneer posted:

That is rad. There's room in my heart for all kinds of tools but old tools just hit differently. My grandfather was a lifelong carpenter and an amazing craftsman and I would love to have some of his old tools from when he passed ~15 years ago. Guy was like an analog-era laser CNC machine with a hand saw and could make cuts faster and more accurate than I can with a circular saw.
He was born in 1923, and spent the war building airfields and bases for the US Army both stateside and in Europe. He was from a small farming community, and he and his brothers had a reputation with the neighbors as a builder. Times were tough on the home front for many people, and being a generous guy he offered use of his tools (and source of income!) to neighbors, family and friends while he was gone. His mother said that keeping track of those tools was the hardest thing she has ever done in her life :v:

Oh totally. Old tools exist at this overlap of "completionist collecting" and "preserving cultural knowledge." I must get them, restore them, and help them find new homes where they can make things again.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
As a condo-bound person, my tools have to be on the smaller side. The loudest thing I can realistically use in my place without annoying everyone around me is a trim router, so I picked up this nice little benchtop router table. A Veritas product from Lee Valley, it fit my Makita perfectly. Modded it a bit already so I can use the dust collection bits for the router as well, and will probably add a small tool/bit storage piece to the side or back of the table.

Probably could have built a little table myself, but with the price of wood and metal in Canada right now, I didn't spend much more for the finished kit rather than raw materials. Like, I spent $40 on a handful of bolts last week, not even stainless, it was "cheapo" zinc coated bolts. Prices are stupid right now.


canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
Saw a video today on a neat trick for measuring from the inside heel of a mitered piece of trim. May not be a groundbreaking concept for many of you but compared to my method of trying to hold very still and wishing my arms were 2 feet longer it's an improvement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlqYv0Z8nVU

Justa Dandelion
Nov 27, 2020

[sobbing] Look at the circles under my eyes. I haven't slept in weeks!

I've burnt out two ryobi 6A belt sanders trying to refinish my deck (call me burnie sanders i guess). How do people like the cheap rear end Skil one? It's got the auto tracking and the reviews seem good... thoughts?

In case it's relevant, the deck was carpeted when we bought the house. We just pulled the carpet and found some pretty decent cedar decking underneath but it's covered in carpet glue. The irregularity between the board heights is making it real difficult to scrape up with chisels (tried a 6", 3", and a 1") plus that sucks and hurts my lovely middle aged body. I am hoping to use some kind of power tool to assist in this process and the internet told me to try out a belt sander. Lmk if that is not a good idea.

Hexigrammus
May 22, 2006

Cheech Wizard stories are clean, wholesome, reflective truths that go great with the marijuana munchies and a blow job.
Would a flooring sander work or would you still need to go after the low spots with a belt sander after the flooring sander knocks the high spots off?

You'd need to experiment a bit with finer grits to keep from chewing the cedar up but it would probably be quicker and you can work standing up. Home Depot rentals were quite reasonable when I needed one.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
This chain saw is only tool that actually sucks the juice out batteries fast enough for me to get a temperature delay when charging. I drained a 4amp, 3amp and 2 amp Flexvolt in about an hour.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum
Sanding a deck definitely isn't a job for any 3x** belt sander and unless its a pretty small one even the 4x24 sanders sounds like a real (back and knee)pain plus they're $200+, renting a floor sander seems like a good idea. If it was me I'd probably toy with the idea unscrewing the decking and flipping it if its in that good of shape.

Who carpets a deck?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Elem7 posted:

Sanding a deck definitely isn't a job for any 3x** belt sander and unless its a pretty small one even the 4x24 sanders sounds like a real (back and knee)pain plus they're $200+, renting a floor sander seems like a good idea. If it was me I'd probably toy with the idea unscrewing the decking and flipping it if its in that good of shape.

Who carpets a deck?

The same people who carpet bathrooms.

Justa Dandelion
Nov 27, 2020

[sobbing] Look at the circles under my eyes. I haven't slept in weeks!

Home depot rental is definitely the right option. The only deck one in our town is rented out for the next few weeks so I was hoping to get it done sooner before it cools down outside.

Any rational person posted:

Who carpets a deck?

The same people that planed all the doors on one side of the house crooked to match the slope of the ceiling.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you


Not everyone is strong in the face of temptation

Justa Dandelion
Nov 27, 2020

[sobbing] Look at the circles under my eyes. I haven't slept in weeks!

Update on the deck, I found another tool rental spot that had a spare drum sander. Got all the glue stripped off but still have a bit of paint on the deck. One of the layers of paint was totally clogging the sandpaper and an abrasive cleaning stick wasn't effective at removing the clog. Back to scraping with a putty knife?

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
That all sounded like a job for a pressure washer, honestly. Get all the old paint or whatever off with a good pressure washer (2-4k psi) and then sand AFTER to get the wood real nice and smooth

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Either that or use a stripper. Worked at a paint plant in the past and we used Citristrip like it was going out of style, things get crazy when you are messing with raw latex and other binders and your finished product is designed to stick to things. It was better than the stuff our company made and execs would get super mad if they ever spotted it, so the fact we used it tells you a lot.

Or if all else fails rent a heated pressure washer. I once stripped off concrete off itself because the latex just really didn't want to give up. (Don't do that, it would probably absolutely destroy the deck)

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
Seconding a chemical stripper. Spray that poo poo, wait a few, and the paint just comes off like nothing.

uh....wear gloves....and a mask........and wash up good when you're done.....

Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


sharkytm posted:

The same people who carpet bathrooms.

My in-laws have a carpeted bathroom and they won't do anything about it. I assume that as soon as you try to peel it back, it'll be like when the Ark of the Covenant opened up and all the spirts come out.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Anyone have any experience using a LVLP spray gun eith a compressor in the 3-4 CFM range? I was leaning to just going with the smallest and quietest compressor (like a CAT 1 gallon), but thought about spraying and wondering if that would work. Lowe's has the 4.3 gallon quiet tech on sale right now, but wondering if I'm just asking for trouble thinking about spraying with that CFM. Would I just be better off with a CAT 1 gallon for a nail gun/light shop air and then a powered HVLP for spraying?


Re: my earlier question about getting one for tires, lol @ lugging a compressor out there after getting a battery inflator. Best advice ever (especially when it's for $30 at DTO).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Bob Mundon posted:

Anyone have any experience using a LVLP spray gun eith a compressor in the 3-4 CFM range? I was leaning to just going with the smallest and quietest compressor (like a CAT 1 gallon), but thought about spraying and wondering if that would work. Lowe's has the 4.3 gallon quiet tech on sale right now, but wondering if I'm just asking for trouble thinking about spraying with that CFM. Would I just be better off with a CAT 1 gallon for a nail gun/light shop air and then a powered HVLP for spraying?


Re: my earlier question about getting one for tires, lol @ lugging a compressor out there after getting a battery inflator. Best advice ever (especially when it's for $30 at DTO).

Any sub 10 gallon compressor I've ever used doesn't even come with a regulator that will pass 4 CFM. Just like the one you linked in fact, which it optimistically rated at 2.4 CFM at 90 PSI. Maybe not even through the regulator. Because every compressor manufacturer either uses misleadingly good numbers or outright lies about their numbers

Also, every reasonable LVLP gun I've seen need 5-6 CFM and every gun manufacturer that's not for pro shops lies about their numbers in the opposite direction.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
What I was figuring. Seeing some listed in the 3CFM range but was thinking even if it were true, you're not getting something for nothing in that balance.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Sash! posted:

My in-laws have a carpeted bathroom and they won't do anything about it. I assume that as soon as you try to peel it back, it'll be like when the Ark of the Covenant opened up and all the spirts come out.

Nah, just R Kelly.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Bob Mundon posted:

Anyone have any experience using a LVLP spray gun eith a compressor in the 3-4 CFM range? I was leaning to just going with the smallest and quietest compressor (like a CAT 1 gallon), but thought about spraying and wondering if that would work. Lowe's has the 4.3 gallon quiet tech on sale right now, but wondering if I'm just asking for trouble thinking about spraying with that CFM. Would I just be better off with a CAT 1 gallon for a nail gun/light shop air and then a powered HVLP for spraying?


Re: my earlier question about getting one for tires, lol @ lugging a compressor out there after getting a battery inflator. Best advice ever (especially when it's for $30 at DTO).
I sprayed with a small Hitachi compressor from lowes for a while before I got a big compressor. Maybe 2-3 gallon? No idea about the CFM rating, but probably not much. It depends hugely on what you're spraying. It'll do fine on small things like cabinet doors as long as you wait between each door for the tank to fill back up, but you'll run out of air halfway through spraying a big tabletop or something. Size fo the tank is really probably more important than CFM-if a full tank will let you spray what you need to spray, who cares how long it takes to fill back up. It's not continuous demand like a die grinder or something. Obviously the compressor running all the time is gonna wear it out faster, but if it's just for occasional use it'll be okay. Lacquer sprayed fine with whatever cheapo $100 Iwata knock-off the auto paint shop had for sale, but it absolutely could not handle actual paint. Pneumatic guns aren't great for thick paint in general, but it was just total fail.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Soul Dentist posted:

Here's another "use" question: i have this Bosch studfinder and for whatever reason I can't for the life of me get it to reliably find studs

had my wife try (no luck)

Just catching up on a few pages and I cannot let this self own slide. :v: I'm sorry for your loss.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
On to why I came here: My wife wants a scroll saw and christmas is coming. Hopefully she doesn't check this thread or worse, my post history. I figure if I start now I might be able to catch a deal on one vs my usual christmas shopping of "uh oh it's christmas in a few days."

My dilema: I have no idea what a scroll saw is, what features I should look for, etc. I was in lowes the other day buying a 12" long blunt chisel in the flathead screwdriver section and had a look for laughs and they don't sell them, at least not where I saw them. What questions should I ask her to find out what to buy, or is there just a "no just buy this one" recommendation? I presume it's for cutting out thin plywood in dimensions smaller than our jigsaw easily handles.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

H110Hawk posted:

On to why I came here: My wife wants a scroll saw and christmas is coming. Hopefully she doesn't check this thread or worse, my post history. I figure if I start now I might be able to catch a deal on one vs my usual christmas shopping of "uh oh it's christmas in a few days."

My dilema: I have no idea what a scroll saw is, what features I should look for, etc. I was in lowes the other day buying a 12" long blunt chisel in the flathead screwdriver section and had a look for laughs and they don't sell them, at least not where I saw them. What questions should I ask her to find out what to buy, or is there just a "no just buy this one" recommendation? I presume it's for cutting out thin plywood in dimensions smaller than our jigsaw easily handles.

I find that scroll saws are plentiful on the used market, people seem to buy them, then not really use them, so check there first.

Really old scrollsaw are nice, they are really heavy cast iron so vibration is minimal, but could lack modern features like quick change blade holders, etc and not sure you would want to take on a restoration project for christmas. Mid range old saws can range from nice to borderline unusable. I just gave away a 90s Delta machine that vibrated so much it was nearly unusable. Make sure if buying used to see it in operation, if it has a lot of vibration its not worth it.

Brands to look out for that are generally highly regarded : Hegner, Excalibur, DeWalt, Excellsior, PSwood/Sakura

I'd stay away from anything new priced under $500 as it would likely be a frustrating waste of money.

A foot switch is a nice accessory to have and you'll want to make sure it can use plain (or pinless) blades.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I don't know anything about scroll saws but i can tell you confidently there's nearly always several on sale on facebook marketplace and/or craigslist in my area. You might need to browse the tools on Facebook though because there's a lot of people who don't list them with scroll saw in the name, like this guy:



I've seen people call a scroll saw a band saw, a table saw, or a jig saw in addition to not giving the name of the type of saw.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 23, 2022

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
If you're interested in a vintage (50's) bubble-gum pink, Dunlop scroll saw that's just been restored you just drop me a PM.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Literally A Person posted:

If you're interested in a vintage (50's) bubble-gum pink, Dunlop scroll saw that's just been restored you just drop me a PM.

I feel like I would need to see a picture here to know for sure.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

lots of good information

A foot switch is a nice accessory to have and you'll want to make sure it can use plain (or pinless) blades.

Also I didn't quite grasp the scale of the pictures I was seeing and was envisioning something tabletop and easily movable. Is that just not it? Or are there a bunch of sizes?

I don't know if I have it in me to go used, I absolutely cannot lift, even team lift, a 100lb chunk of tool. I will have a gander though. I wish I could just post in our local "buy nothing" group because hilariously I might be able to find one.

What is pinless? Is a foot switch something you can add or must be bought with it? (Could her parents buy her a foot switch to match.)

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

H110Hawk posted:

I feel like I would need to see a picture here to know for sure.

Give me a day or two to reassemble the thing. I'm only joking though. I can only imagine it would cost $$$ to ship anywhere. It's, uh, big. But yeah, I'll flop it together for some glamour shots.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

H110Hawk posted:

I feel like I would need to see a picture here to know for sure.

Also I didn't quite grasp the scale of the pictures I was seeing and was envisioning something tabletop and easily movable. Is that just not it? Or are there a bunch of sizes?

I don't know if I have it in me to go used, I absolutely cannot lift, even team lift, a 100lb chunk of tool. I will have a gander though. I wish I could just post in our local "buy nothing" group because hilariously I might be able to find one.

What is pinless? Is a foot switch something you can add or must be bought with it? (Could her parents buy her a foot switch to match.)

They are classified by throat depth, which is the distance from the blade to the back post. The standard is about 15 or 16" and it goes up from there. Rule of thumb is you can cut to the centre of a panel twice the throat depth.

The 16" ones are absolutely movable, my 16" is maybe 40lbs so easy enough to store it in a cabinet and put it on the bench to use. The 24" I just got is maybe 75lbs, and I still put it away and lift it on the bench. People that really use it a lot will have a separate stand so it just stays out all the time. The guy I bought the 24" had a stand and he made me take it with the saw and I just threw it to the curb.

As far as pinned vs pinless, pinned blades have a small pin at the top and bottom of the blade that the saw will grab on to. The downside of these is that the pins are fairly large so if you want to make the cut in the centre of a panel it needs a pretty big hole. Pinless or plain blades are just a straight blade and the saw has special clamps to grab onto the blades, these are the way to go. Pinned blades are old technology and seem harder to find in any quantities. Here's a video if you want further explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suvhnj1yx80

Footswitch is a stand-alone thing, this is the one i have: https://www.amazon.ca/WEN-WA0392-15-Amp-Momentary-Woodworking/dp/B08BZX4XGY

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Literally A Person posted:

Give me a day or two to reassemble the thing. I'm only joking though. I can only imagine it would cost $$$ to ship anywhere. It's, uh, big. But yeah, I'll flop it together for some glamour shots.

Yeah but it's pink so freight cost be damned. A standard no-stack skid on a LTL load isn't THAT expensive if I have until christmas to get it to me. :v:


Meow Meow Meow posted:

They are classified by throat depth, which is the distance from the blade to the back post. The standard is about 15 or 16" and it goes up from there. Rule of thumb is you can cut to the centre of a panel twice the throat depth.

The 16" ones are absolutely movable, my 16" is maybe 40lbs so easy enough to store it in a cabinet and put it on the bench to use. The 24" I just got is maybe 75lbs, and I still put it away and lift it on the bench. People that really use it a lot will have a separate stand so it just stays out all the time. The guy I bought the 24" had a stand and he made me take it with the saw and I just threw it to the curb.

Awesome. Sounds like 16" or 24" is the way to go, and I imagine if I'm buying new pinless is going to be the only game in town.

Where does one scope out... deals on these? Just watch homedepot or is there some place the cool kids buy tools?

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Meow Meow Meow posted:

They are classified by throat depth

Same

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Been waiting for this moment since 2008 huh?

For content: do you know why your wife wants a scroll saw? What's she into?

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Sawing, scroll-wise.

Soul Dentist
Mar 17, 2009
You know, it makes sense that this thread is SA's epicenter of :dadjoke:

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



NomNomNom posted:

Been waiting for this moment since 2008 huh?

For content: do you know why your wife wants a scroll saw? What's she into?

Scroll up or down. The answer will shock and surprise you!

H110Hawk posted:

Yeah but it's pink so freight cost be damned. A standard no-stack skid on a LTL load isn't THAT expensive if I have until christmas to get it to me. :v:

Awesome. Sounds like 16" or 24" is the way to go, and I imagine if I'm buying new pinless is going to be the only game in town.

Where does one scope out... deals on these? Just watch homedepot or is there some place the cool kids buy tools?

sniff around on your local Craigslist, and like the guy said, Facebook marketplace.

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