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S.J. posted:I still do not know how to take good miniature pictures and I'm pretty sure I'll never be able to until I get a ring light and a macro lens attachment for my phone. I have zero knowledge of photography and almost zero knowledge of painting, having picked up a brush this month for the first time in over 20 years, but photos seems to be better if you take them outside against a white wall.
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Sep 25, 2022 09:58
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Gently overcast day is the best lighting for a phone camera, in my experience. I don't own enough lights to get good shots indoors.
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Sep 25, 2022 10:40
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Mini photography stuff: For miniature photography I use a narrow aperture to increase the working focal distance and allow a bit more working depth. Note: each lens has a sweet spot, if you have a dslr just look at dpreview to get lens specs. For example, my 100mm 2.8L macro lens doesn't usually get pushed passed f8 on my crop sensor as softening begins to occur at that depth. If I had a full frame though I'd push to f11 easy. Lighting: use a diffuser to soften your light and get rid of hard highlights and shine on the model. Shutter speed: throw it on a tripod and set a timer or remote switch it all you don't have to touch the damned thing while the photo is being taken. Focus stacking: not always needed for units with the narrow aperture. But, for big models where bits exist outside the sliver of the available field depth, then it becomes a necessity. And yes I find it deeply ironic that all the photos I've posted in this thread have been taken with a phone lol
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Sep 25, 2022 18:33
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Stripping update: white spirit was useless whereas after a couple of hours in meths the paint on an old Skaven Screaming Bell came off dead easy. What's the best way of getting rid of the large chunks of superglue (?) that's left?
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Sep 25, 2022 20:04
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throw the mini in the freezer overnight and it should pick or break off quite easily when you take it out
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Sep 25, 2022 20:10
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i finished the AT Warbringer that's been standing on my desk for a year. A few guys are fighting on the base, and there are gunners on the tiny, completely useless guns by the weapon platform.  
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Sep 26, 2022 13:33
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I'm looking to try my hand at painting some things, but I'm a complete and utter novice. I don't remember the last time I touched a brush, so starting from zero essentially. I asked my friend at the local game store if he could recommend any miniatures/sets to start with, and his suggestion was this: https://wizkids.com/dnd-frameworks-drider-paint-kit/ Would this be an alright purchase (around 25 euro) for something to learn on? I'm not terribly fussed on individual brushes/paints as I can borrow around with folks at the store, so I'm more looking for a good miniature to work with in terms of sculpt/quality and the like.
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Sep 26, 2022 16:40
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Unless you're specifically interested in getting a DnD miniature, I honestly recommend Games Workshop models. Most of them are a real pleasure to paint and very high quality sculpts. The Underworld warbands are perfect because they come with a small-ish number of visually distinct and interesting models and tend to be reasonably priced (ymmv but they go for 20 - 25GBP generally). Also they technically don't require glue though I'd still use a little. e: I mention this because you say getting paint and brushes isn't a problem. If you want your own paints, that box you linked contains Vallejo paints which are great. a7m2 fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 17:04
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You can periodically find the Marvel United base set or X-men base set for dirt cheap <$10 (in US, not sure about UK) and those have 10 or so models that you could use to learn painting. The models have enough detail to be interesting but not so much detail that a novice would struggle. There’s also more room to learn shading on some of them because most heroes have 2-3 colors of their costume that cover large areas and you can learn lighting and shading with them.
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Sep 26, 2022 17:41
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I thought first time painters at lgs' usually get a free model?
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Sep 26, 2022 18:08
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warhammer stores do that, idk about other stores
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Sep 26, 2022 18:15
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a7m2 posted:Unless you're specifically interested in getting a DnD miniature, I honestly recommend Games Workshop models. Most of them are a real pleasure to paint and very high quality sculpts. The Underworld warbands are perfect because they come with a small-ish number of visually distinct and interesting models and tend to be reasonably priced (ymmv but they go for 20 - 25GBP generally). Also they technically don't require glue though I'd still use a little. The store also has the two GW sets (Fantasy and 40k), and I was looking at those at first, the Drider was the recommendation from my friend. I actually don't care for the current edition of DnD at all, and am even less a fan of elves  Saltpowered posted:You can periodically find the Marvel United base set or X-men base set for dirt cheap <$10 (in US, not sure about UK) and those have 10 or so models that you could use to learn painting. The models have enough detail to be interesting but not so much detail that a novice would struggle. There’s also more room to learn shading on some of them because most heroes have 2-3 colors of their costume that cover large areas and you can learn lighting and shading with them. No discount to SUCH levels at the moment, although there might be some other deep discount on board games I can check out. The Demilich posted:I thought first time painters at lgs' usually get a free model? Well, I was hoping he might have some junk lying around to gimme for free, and I'd leech from their paints etc, but I'd like to support the store too so it's okay too. Re: Borrowing, while I know I could get a dip from their paints or borrow a brush (and they're welcome to my stuff), I'm considering the buying to be part "buying-into" the collaborative aspect, as well as being motivation for me to actually do stuff. The store actually doesn't sell Vallejo paints, just Citadel and Army Painter ones, for the record, but there's no issue with walking 1 minute to the other store and picking some up if needed. All three of the kits (Drider, and the two GW ones) are around the same price, 25 euro, so it's essentially a choice between 1 big model and 12 Vallejo paints or 2-3 smaller ones and 6 Citadel paints. Wonder if I could get a guy with some Warhammer stuff to just give me one to try, and I buy him a coffee or something...
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Sep 26, 2022 18:40
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The 12 Vallejo paints set definitely is way better value but the model, to me, isn't all that great so it depends on where your priorities lie. Though I don't think those SM/Stormcast models are particularly nice compared to a lot of other GW ones. If you have a friend with Warhammer stuff there's a good chance they'll let you paint something since everyone I know has way too much unpainted poo poo.
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Sep 26, 2022 18:58
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Serperoth posted:The store also has the two GW sets (Fantasy and 40k), and I was looking at those at first, the Drider was the recommendation from my friend. I actually don't care for the current edition of DnD at all, and am even less a fan of elves Its not a bad starter set, but if you dont like the mini... What is it you want to paint? Not "What do you want to learn on", but what is the thing or things you are interested in/excited about actually painting. Because honestly you are best of picking up whatever that is (or something similar) to paint than you are picking up something you arent actually interested in because it came with a starter set. We've all occasionally painted models we dont actually like that much and I'll tell you, its a drat slog. Its more fun if its a figure you like, its easier to stick with and enjoy improving if you are having fun. Plus different models teach different things. Like an armoured knight figure might help you improve at doing metals and edge highlighting, but if what you really want to paint is savage orcs on warboars then you'd have been better off starting with one of those to get more practice with green skin tones and painting fur. Its all in the end transferable skills (you can use your edge highlighting skills on the bone studded clubs, or your fur painting experience on the knights crest, stuff like shading, highlighting and brush control are universal), but with a limited amount of time in the day I still say start by learning to paint on the thing you want to paint. I'm not saying make Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead your first figure, but if thats what you are aiming for eventually maybe start by painting Dave, the Middle Manager of the undead and a squad of skeletons, instead of learning how to highlight skin they dont have. If you truly dont care what you are painting (which I think you do because you dont like elves) then just go to your flgs and ask what they have thats cheap/on clearance. People have practised on crap plastic toy soldiers before, anything from an actual miniature company is better than that. By and large starter sets are kinda whatever. If you are starting from literally zero they can be a good way of getting a bunch of paints and a mediocre-but-usable brush and saving a bit of cash, but by and large its kind of "Buy this set of 6 paints you dont get to pick for the price of 5 paints" sort of savings, and you always have to top up the colour selection. I personally dont particularly rate the two GW ones you linked there, unless you are wanting to specifically paint the figures they come with. Its a very limited paint selection for painting anything else tbh. No flesh tone, no bone/ivory, no brown (and SO MANY THINGS ARE BROWN). On paper the Vallejo/D&D kit is better, you could always see if you can trade the mini to someone who wants to paint it for one of their spare figures that you are more interested in. But its where we rub up against the issue with starter sets; The vallejo one has a better range of paints (Multiple browns, so the leather vest and wooden spear can be different shades! the luxury! A couple of greys which is also more useful than you think), but if what you are planning on painting will be mainly warm colours (say a dwarf slayer army) then its maybe not so good for you as it has a bunch of cold colours, but no caucasian flesh tone, no reds, no yellows, no oranges, no leaf greens. If there are 2-3 paints there you dont open because you arent painting anything dark blue or whatever then the value of the set starts to seriously dwindle. tl:dr - If you see yourself using all the colours that come in the starter set within the next year then its probably a decent enough deal. If you dont, then you are probably better off just picking up colours you will need immediately and a brush. Either way you're going to have to supplement your paint collection here and there, but theres no point in owning a bottle of paint that you dont need.
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Sep 26, 2022 19:29
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SiKboy posted:Its not a bad starter set, but if you dont like the mini... What is it you want to paint? Yeah this x100. I paint exclusively Battletech minis and that guides my study from paints (I like the Vallejo sets based on aircraft) to lighting techniques (mechs are mostly flat panels and have different shading considerations from your average wood elf) to basing and weathering (I'm restricted to 1/285 scale which means most of the Warhammer props are useless to me, also I spend a lot of time simulating rust and scratches) to the kind of videos I watch (I skip everything involving flesh, clothes, and eyeballs and follow people who paint tanks and tiny aircraft). Find your own thing. You'll learn plenty just following your bliss.
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Sep 26, 2022 19:41
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I am a total noob who just started again but when I first was interested in figure painting it was because I picked up a Reaper Bones succubus figure on clearance. So I'd err on grabbing a discount figure you like and assembling what ever a starter set of paint is separately. (Said succubus figure was hosed up and set aside unfinished for years. I've met someone who is into figure painting and willing to help so I dusted it off, stripped it, and am much farther along now using it as practice before I start my space ship model. Happier too.)
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Sep 26, 2022 20:23
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SiKboy posted:I'm not saying make Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead your first figure, but if thats what you are aiming for eventually maybe start by painting Dave, the Middle Manager of the undead and a squad of skeletons, instead of learning how to highlight skin they dont have. If you truly dont care what you are painting (which I think you do because you dont like elves) then just go to your flgs and ask what they have thats cheap/on clearance. People have practised on crap plastic toy soldiers before, anything from an actual miniature company is better than that. This actually reminded me, I do have these boys from my last attempt at painting. I guess my interest isn't so much in the flesh aspect? Out of the stuff I've considered today, the drider would be in last place, with the Fantasy knights outclassing the Space Marines primarily by virtue of them being more "versatile". No rule says I couldn't get pink paint and paint their armor pink, but the marines have the U on the shoulder, so gotta be blue, can't do cool green spacemen with these ones. I hope that isn't as absurd as I think it is? I'm more interested in individual and skirmish-scale stuff, when it comes to unit sizes (a group of samurai, or a few Space Marines), so fewer, more distinct folks, but both fantasy and sci-fi have appeal. What I'm thinking now that I found the Prussians, I'll take them in, use a couple to make sure I can put paint on plastic, see what actually appeals from the selection itself, and pick that up. Maybe something from Underworld like a7m2 said, or something along that vein. I seem to have missed out on these lads which seem like a cool bunch, for example, but I know they have enough stuff there that something should appeal.
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Sep 26, 2022 20:29
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Oh my god, batch painting is tedious. Im trying to whip through some pathfinders and i think batch painting is taking longer than painting individually due to how many breaks im taking comparatively.
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Sep 26, 2022 20:30
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My Spirit Otter posted:Oh my god, batch painting is tedious. Im trying to whip through some pathfinders and i think batch painting is taking longer than painting individually due to how many breaks im taking comparatively. Yeah batch painting is like technically more time efficient but is also way more efficient in sapping your will to live. Edit: I also have a box of pathfinders I need to paint...
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Sep 26, 2022 20:45
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Imagine painting in a way that is like a job but you pay to do it that sounds awesome
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Sep 26, 2022 21:00
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I just do all of one color, maybe two colors a night, and do the rest on a different day, I don't try to complete the models fully in a night
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Sep 26, 2022 21:06
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Serperoth posted:This actually reminded me, I do have these boys from my last attempt at painting. I guess my interest isn't so much in the flesh aspect? Out of the stuff I've considered today, the drider would be in last place, with the Fantasy knights outclassing the Space Marines primarily by virtue of them being more "versatile". No rule says I couldn't get pink paint and paint their armor pink, but the marines have the U on the shoulder, so gotta be blue, can't do cool green spacemen with these ones. I hope that isn't as absurd as I think it is? It does make sense, dont worry! I also love a skirmish game warband, keeps things a bit fresh. Mainly Malifaux in my case, but I've dipped into Warhammer Underworlds and Kill Team occasionally too. If you like the look of an out of print Underworlds warband, check out ebay, I picked up Ironskulls Boys from there for about 25% less than retail. If you dont want to play the game you can probably get them even cheaper without their cards.
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Sep 26, 2022 21:07
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SiKboy posted:If you like the look of an out of print Underworlds warband, check out ebay, I picked up Ironskulls Boys from there for about 25% less than retail. If you dont want to play the game you can probably get them even cheaper without their cards. I did, the prices were a little bit spicy for me right now, but it's definitely an option for a little bit down the line. I'll check what the store has around on Wednesday, along with the stuff I'll bring... Maybe I'll find my paints from that time too, who knows!
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Sep 26, 2022 21:13
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Did up a flamer dude as it looks like I'll be playing Vet. Guard. Perspective makes it look like he doesn't have legs, but I assure he's no scrunt.
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Sep 26, 2022 21:28
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Does anyone have tips for airbrush priming? I've tried to follow Vince Venturella's video about it but I'm still having some issues. To be fair, I am priming white, but it just seems to take forever and I sometimes get random thicker globs. Also, any tips for doing the backspray thing with a Badger 105? I try to do it and I just stab my hand and a bunch of paint builds up around the tip.
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Sep 26, 2022 21:49
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FishFood posted:Does anyone have tips for airbrush priming? I've tried to follow Vince Venturella's video about it but I'm still having some issues. To be fair, I am priming white, but it just seems to take forever and I sometimes get random thicker globs. Also, any tips for doing the backspray thing with a Badger 105? I try to do it and I just stab my hand and a bunch of paint builds up around the tip. I backfill my 105 by getting a paper towel with a few drops of flow improver and use it to pinch the protruding part of the needle before pulling back like normal. The wet towel makes a seal even though your finger isnt directly over the hole.
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Sep 26, 2022 22:34
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FishFood posted:Does anyone have tips for airbrush priming? I've tried to follow Vince Venturella's video about it but I'm still having some issues. To be fair, I am priming white, but it just seems to take forever and I sometimes get random thicker globs. Also, any tips for doing the backspray thing with a Badger 105? I try to do it and I just stab my hand and a bunch of paint builds up around the tip. White is an evil evil colour to paint with, but yeah there's two issues: 1. coverage is gonna suck, because white paint is really transparent. ya just have to do a lot of thin coats, it sucks. It can help to prime in a light grey first, if you are having trouble with the white taking a ridiculous number of coats 2. titanium white (like 99% of the white paints) clumps together really really easily. If you have an old/unused bottle, you may have to shake the absolute gently caress out of it to get rid of clumps The best white I've used so far is Mr. Hobby White Surfacer (it's a primer). It's a lacquer based paint though, so it requires a full respirator to use, as well as special thinner (Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner). Also Mr. Hobby can be hard to find, as it's primarily a japanese market brand. Also it's still white, so you still have to be slow with it. Edit: If you are willing to commit to it though, lacquers are the best paints to airbrush with, the make normal acrylics feel like poo poo to airbrush BadMedic fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Sep 27, 2022 |
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Sep 27, 2022 00:59
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Serperoth posted:I'm looking to try my hand at painting some things, but I'm a complete and utter novice. I don't remember the last time I touched a brush, so starting from zero essentially. I asked my friend at the local game store if he could recommend any miniatures/sets to start with, and his suggestion was this: https://wizkids.com/dnd-frameworks-drider-paint-kit/ I would recommend reaper minis if you can get your hands on them. They’re heroic scale, meaning the faces, heads and hands are slightly bigger and more pronounced, making them easier to paint and giving them plenty of detail. They also have hundreds of minis for cheap, in a large variety of sculpts.
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Sep 27, 2022 01:24
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FishFood posted:Also, any tips for doing the backspray thing with a Badger 105? Oh also I don't know if this works for the badger specifically, but on my airbrush you can backwash by just slightly unscrewing the front nozzle section.
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Sep 27, 2022 02:13
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Cross post from the AoS thread:IncredibleIgloo posted:I have never really liked painting orcs, but the Ironjawz theme was really striking and looked great. Turns out it is a complete pain to paint. So I decided to do up the orcs using mostly contrast paint to try and figure that stuff out. Contrast paint works super well for fur and it made painting the yellow fun actually! I also liked how they turned out. I try to have two armies with the same base theme so they can fight each other. My Necrons and Space marines have city rubble theme, and my Orcs here and their opponents, the Idoneth Deepkin, have a river in the Taiga theme.
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Sep 27, 2022 03:31
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I see a lot of youtubers layer a model after doing a zenithal prime + contrasting. This seems kind of strange to me, because wouldn’t the layering step cover up all the work that the zenithal is doing for you? I understand that during layering you skip recesses, but the layering would still cover up the “highlights.” Today I base coated a plague marine with plaguebearer flesh. It looked pretty rough so I tried layering with death guard green. It did a good job of cleaning up the contrast base, but I dont really see what I was gaining as opposed to just basing the whole thing death guard green and shading from the start.
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Sep 27, 2022 03:49
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Well, try it both ways and post the results.
Siivola fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Sep 27, 2022 |
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Sep 27, 2022 04:35
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FishFood posted:Also, any tips for doing the backspray thing with a Badger 105? Did yours come with the rubber protective cap? That works great for my badger airbrush.
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Sep 27, 2022 04:43
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Bored Online posted:I see a lot of youtubers layer a model after doing a zenithal prime + contrasting. This seems kind of strange to me, because wouldn’t the layering step cover up all the work that the zenithal is doing for you? I understand that during layering you skip recesses, but the layering would still cover up the “highlights.” If your paints are thin, no, there should definitely be a gradient coming through from the zenithal prime.
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Sep 27, 2022 05:04
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Started a Master of Possessions which presented me 2 things I haven't done before: flames and fabric. Watched a couple videos and am pretty happy with how it came out, but as always the camera makes me go "how did I miss that spot" all over it. 
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Sep 27, 2022 05:09
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Verisimilidude posted:I would recommend reaper minis if you can get your hands on them. They’re heroic scale, meaning the faces, heads and hands are slightly bigger and more pronounced, making them easier to paint and giving them plenty of detail. They also have hundreds of minis for cheap, in a large variety of sculpts. Oh those seem nice, shipping doesn't look too extortionate either, thanks for the recommendation. I also found some old Space Marine thing I'd bought, I think it was a bike of some sort? No news on the paint that had come with the Prussians, but that's not the complicated part.
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Sep 27, 2022 06:55
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   I'm attempting a new colour scheme for my Deepkin, and unfortunately my Contrast has resulted in this. This is a test model so I'm not broken up about it, just more puzzled on how to get a smoother finish. I'm thinking either getting the contrast medium and doing a few thinner coats, or just getting a regular real base paint. I don't particularly want to do the latter because I have to paint 20 of these fuckers, but I'd like some advice before I go forward.
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Sep 27, 2022 11:27
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Nazzadan posted:Started a Master of Possessions which presented me 2 things I haven't done before: flames and fabric. Watched a couple videos and am pretty happy with how it came out, but as always the camera makes me go "how did I miss that spot" all over it. I really, really like those flames. I dunno, blue for magical flames feels really underused, and those really pop.
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Sep 27, 2022 11:56
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Ork kill team 99% done. First batch of minis in nearly 12 years away. Mostly painted with contrast paints & washes Need to put some finishing touches with eyes, teeth & pick out a few details.
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Sep 27, 2022 12:57
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Bored Online posted:I see a lot of youtubers layer a model after doing a zenithal prime + contrasting. This seems kind of strange to me, because wouldn’t the layering step cover up all the work that the zenithal is doing for you? I understand that during layering you skip recesses, but the layering would still cover up the “highlights.” Personally I like to zenithal even when I'm planning to layer on opaque colors. It just makes the model easier on the eye and helps you see what you're doing better than a mono colored primer. The end result is no different, but it takes like thirty seconds and makes the first stages more pleasant in my experience.
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Sep 27, 2022 14:00
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