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Hadlock posted:same car I would be sad if anything happened to your cool vintage car
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Sep 26, 2022 20:10
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I would be sad if anything happened to your cool vintage car My cool vintage car is safely in a locked Edit: they just replaced the power line pole in front of my house that feeds my house too, like literally last week, along with about a dozen more down around the corner and it's rained exactly once since then Probably going to park on the upwind side of the pole, it's in the median Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 20:38
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I checked my battery with my multimeter, at rest it was 12.45 volts, but I didn't drive it but about 15 minutes after I roll started it from dead, and cranked it a couple of times after that from my stops, so I doubt it charged all the way. Once I cranked it up, it was about 13.5 at idle. If any of that information means anything. Perhaps it just needs to fully charge back up from whatever killed it? Or the alternator is going bad. I read resting the battery should be 12.6 and while running should be 13.8-14.4v. But that's assuming the battery is fully charged.
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Sep 26, 2022 20:57
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Just because your alternator can push 13.5v across the battery does not mean that the battery has absorbed the charge yet, unless you've got a lithium battery (highly unlikely) If your battery wasn't able to crank over the engine it's probably already dead, or has been discharged long enough + deep enough it's permanently hosed. How old is the battery? You're probably in need of your third battery if the current battery replaced the OEM battery when bought new (~5 years ago). If it hasn't completely died yet, this winter won't do it any favors
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Sep 26, 2022 21:13
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I'm pretty sure battery is fine. I bought it new about a year ago, might have been a little less. Like I said, it's easily possible I left the ignition on or the lights or something. And at this point, I've cranked it back up about 4 different times testing poo poo out or during my earlier stops while I was out, and it's running like a champ even though it probably hasn't had very long to charge fully. I tested one more thing - its idling at 13.5ishv, and if I turn on the a/c full blast, radio and headlights...it still idles at 13.5v. So that should be a good sign for my alternator, right? If I do have to replace the battery, oh well. I'm more worried about the car going into the shop for several days because that's going to be super inconvenient, so I want to check everything I can before doing that. Since it seems to be running well, I'll drive it to work the next couple of days and see if it acts up. A battery is annoying, but easy enough to just fix myself if it comes down to it. e; I was recommended to get a charger and fully charge my battery at work tomorrow to prevent any possible fuckery, since I don't drive very far(about 10 minutes to work one way), my alternator might not have a chance to charge the battery up fully even if it is still in good health. Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 21:21
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:I don't drive very far(about 10 minutes to work one way), my alternator might not have a chance to charge up fully even if it is still in good health. important detail
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Sep 26, 2022 21:30
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I figure now that I have two squirt bottle things, I'd just cover the entire threading in this poo poo and if it doesn't touch the nut who cares I usually gob a comical amount of antiseize on the larger ones. Like fully coat the threads, and the unthreaded shank if I'm worried it'll rust to a bushing sleeve. Slime them all, God will know his own. Copper or nickel antiseize for high temp Regular aluminum for everything else If you don't use a lot of antiseize, just get the copper or nickel and use it everywhere, it's not like 10 bucks for a tub of it every 5 years is a budget buster.
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Sep 26, 2022 21:57
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:I'm trying to figure out if I should take my car to the shop for the alternator guys. It's a 2012 mazda 6, about 80k miles I think. Today I went to get in it, and the battery was a little dead, dead enough it couldn't start. So I rolled it out of the driveway and dumped the clutch to get it started. It ran perfectly fine, drove to the autozone. They said the battery was fine but my alternator was going bad. However, I've stopped a couple more places and drove it a bit, and everything seems perfectly fine to me. It's possible I just left a light or something on and that's why the battery was low on juice to begin with. Don't know your car in particular but the alternator is one of the easiest things to replace on modern engines and usually they're not hidden away somewhere brutal. Do you own a multimeter? It's dead simple to check the voltage terminal to terminal with the car running - if it's less than 14.4v or something (someone correct me on the value) you should replace it. I agree with you that you might have just left a light on or something like that. If it happens again you'll know for sure.
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Sep 27, 2022 04:32
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My Honda / Stepwagon / 2005 has a stuck driver side sliding door. I've done a little research and first thing to check is fuses. Any idea where I could find a fuse box diagram for this vehicle? It's a Japanese import (I'm in the UK) and every resource I can find only basically acts as though this vehicle doesn't exist. Sorry for the stupid question in the stupid question thread.
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Sep 27, 2022 09:43
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Jables88 posted:My Honda / Stepwagon / 2005 has a stuck driver side sliding door. I've done a little research and first thing to check is fuses. Pop the fuse box cover off. There should be little diagrams of what each fuse does on the inside of the cover. You're looking for this fella right here.  If you have the manual, the Google Lens within the google phone app does live translation. Also remember that fuses protect the circuit. A blown fuse is a symptom, not a cause of the problem. Powershift fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Sep 27, 2022 |
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Sep 27, 2022 11:23
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Powershift posted:Pop the fuse box cover off. There should be little diagrams of what each fuse does on the inside of the cover. You're looking for this fella right here. This is amazing, thank you. Second even stupider question - it sounds like the fuse box is in the passenger side footwell, does that sound right? For context - the recommended remedy is to remove and replace the existing fuse to reset it, rather than replacing a blown fuse.
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Sep 27, 2022 12:56
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Yeah, looks like you're looking for fuses 15 and 16 here.   http://blog.livedoor.jp/osaka_3939/archives/38117335.html machine translate of the stuff on the left suggests there are 2 more fuses in another box either above the gas pedal or under the driver's seat for the rear doors as well. Powershift fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Sep 27, 2022 |
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Sep 27, 2022 13:25
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My own question. 2007 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - running gear is essentially identical from 92-11 for this particular question, and should be identical to an F-150 with the 4 speed auto and 4.6/5.4 (the SN95 Mustang GT w/auto is probably pretty close too). Transmission is leaking from the tail shaft seal. What does it take to R&R the seal, aside from the obvious "remove driveshaft and yoke" part? It's a 4R75W, though it should be identical to an AOD-E and 4R70W for this. I already know I'm getting an ATF bath (way overdue for a fluid change anyway), and I'm going to do u-joints at the same time since they're likely original. Also, should I go ahead and plan for a new yoke, or is it a big question mark until I remove it and see how much wear there is? It doesn't seem to be a major leak, but it's definitely enough that it left a ~half dollar coin size spot on the ground at work, and it's been flung around a bit - so hopefully the yoke isn't grooved much.  VelociBacon posted:Don't know your car in particular but the alternator is one of the easiest things to replace on modern engines and usually they're not hidden away somewhere brutal. Do you own a multimeter? It's dead simple to check the voltage terminal to terminal with the car running - if it's less than 14.4v or something (someone correct me on the value) you should replace it. I agree with you that you might have just left a light on or something like that. If it happens again you'll know for sure. Honda would like a word. They bury them, and in the 90s, you sometimes had to pop a balljoint and remove a half shaft to get it out (92-00 Civic  ). On my 96 Civic I was able to just baaaaaarely get it out without removing the axle, but I was a lot skinnier and a lot more flexible back then.Also, most are PCM controlled since the late 90s-early 00s. Anything above 13.2 is usually fine. 14.5 is the highest you want to see. Subaru puts them right up top and center, ~30-60 minute job. 90s Nissan was pretty easy. 00s Ford V8 is 10-15 minutes start to finish if you've done it before (30 if you haven't). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Sep 28, 2022 |
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Sep 28, 2022 02:14
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STR posted:Subaru puts them right up top and center, ~30-60 minute job. That's to make up for having buried the spark plugs in the deep inaccessible parts of the engine.
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Sep 28, 2022 02:30
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Slipyoke and a companion flange? maybe half an hour. If the yoke is grooved it'll continue to piddle. Also know that there's a bushing in the extension housing typically that'll also wear. That takes a little longer to replace.
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Sep 28, 2022 03:03
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STR posted:Subaru puts them right up top and center, ~30-60 minute job. 90s Nissan was pretty easy. 00s Ford V8 is 10-15 minutes start to finish if you've done it before (30 if you haven't). You can even do it on the side of the road with a bunch of crap you bought from the Autozone a mile away up a hill. Ask me how I know.   
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Sep 28, 2022 03:31
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Safety Dance posted:That's to make up for having buried the spark plugs in the deep inaccessible parts of the engine. Yeah but they counter that with pulling the transmission being one of the easiest cars i ever done it on. Unlike the evo that has its transmission in the lament configuration.
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Sep 28, 2022 03:32
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When we were racing the Tercel 4wd, we got to where we could swap transmissions in about 12 minutes. The best car ever for that particular job.
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Sep 28, 2022 03:37
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Small question: Any lubricant at all on the splines in a wheel hub? I see there's some sort of coating or some form of light grease maybe on the axle splines already, but wasn't sure if I should clean it off and put something specific on it.
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Sep 28, 2022 03:56
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Edward IV posted:You can even do it on the side of the road with a bunch of crap you bought from the Autozone a mile away up a hill. Ask me how I know. The bolt on the tensioner on mine snapped in half while I was on the highway. I shimmed the tensioner with hex keys so the power steering and alternator mostly worked and drove to an O'Reilly's where I replaced my alternator with an adjustable crescent wrench and nothing else. It was not fun, but I did it and got back on the road. I genuinely feel like fixing your car in the parts store parking lot is a rite of passage.
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Sep 28, 2022 04:13
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STR posted:Transmission is leaking from the tail shaft seal. What does it take to R&R the seal, aside from the obvious "remove driveshaft and yoke" part? It's a 4R75W, though it should be identical to an AOD-E and 4R70W for this. I already know I'm getting an ATF bath (way overdue for a fluid change anyway), and I'm going to do u-joints at the same time since they're likely original. Also, should I go ahead and plan for a new yoke, or is it a big question mark until I remove it and see how much wear there is? I would see how the U-joints are when you get the shaft out. If they're not making noise I wouldn't bother replacing them now. Likewise on the yoke itself, I would wait and see how it looks when you pull it, seals can go bad without any damage to the shaft at all. Also, jack the thing as far rear end-up as you can and you should minimize the ATF shower.
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Sep 28, 2022 04:15
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What is happening in this video, looks sort of like they're practicing panic stopping on oiled (or soapy?), polished concrete? These are all front wheel drive cars but he Citroen Traction Avant does way better - why? I'm guessing 80% the longer and wider wheel track, and also that the engine sits fully behind the front axle  mid engine, but seems to have an outsized impact? There's one FR Mercedes and it seems to behave the same as the econoboxeshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFnUFOXIMj8 Hadlock fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Sep 28, 2022 |
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Sep 28, 2022 06:46
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STR posted:Honda would like a word. They bury them, and in the 90s, you sometimes had to pop a balljoint and remove a half shaft to get it out (92-00 Civic  Just barely comes out without removing anything else 
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Sep 28, 2022 11:15
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Small question: Anti-seize.
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Sep 28, 2022 11:46
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We own two Hondas, a 2015 CRV and a 2014 Accord, both approaching 100k miles. We've never done any service on them beyond changing the oil and tires and whatever popped up on inspections, and we want to take them to the somewhere and get all the important stuff done that would hopefully let us run them another 100k miles. I expect the laundry list of stuff the dealership wants us to do is going to be padded, so what are the actual important services we should be looking to have done? Like, they're going to come back and say "needs brakes" which sure, but also I'm afraid they're going to try to sell me "battery service" for $40 or something. And maybe I need that, but it feels wrong. My DIY capabilities are, I can change my own wiper blades and am capable of following YT instructions on like cabin filters and such. Hood up is fine; jacks I'm not getting involved with.
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Sep 28, 2022 13:50
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Huxley posted:We own two Hondas, a 2015 CRV and a 2014 Accord, both approaching 100k miles. We've never done any service on them beyond changing the oil and tires and whatever popped up on inspections, and we want to take them to the somewhere and get all the important stuff done that would hopefully let us run them another 100k miles. What you'll want to do is first review your maintenance schedule. Honda has PDFs of the original manual available here: https://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2015/CR-V/manuals and https://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2014/accord-sedan/manuals Both have Honda's Maintenance Minder system, which uses codes to tell you what's due. If up to now all you've done is oil changes, there's a chance you've skipped over some of these items, so it might be wise to plan on doing pretty much all of the items they list in the respective section for each vehicle. Here's your CR-V's section:  I'll skip the Accord's, as it's probably pretty much the same. In your shoes, I'd probably start looking around for a local independent garage to do pretty much all of it. Maybe start with one and see how things go. If you like how it went, take the other one in. If you didn't, look around again. With your skill level, about the only thing you can do is the cabin air filter. Might save you a few dollars, so go ahead, but definitely let someone more experienced handle the rest, unless you want to learn how. A set of RhinoRamps would open up at least a few jobs if it's specifically using a jack that worries you: https://smile.amazon.com/RhinoGear-...c47c48c32f&th=1 nitsuga fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Sep 28, 2022 |
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Sep 28, 2022 14:33
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I think plugs are pretty straightforward, too, though there are more severe consequences if things go wrong. As I posted before, the CRV has a chain which is a lifetime part, but the Accord has a timing belt and you should definitely get that replaced.
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Sep 28, 2022 15:06
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I think plugs are pretty straightforward, too, though there are more severe consequences if things go wrong.  Plugs and coils on a CRV are like the easiest possible version of it. Great place to start, I think, if you're interested in doing it yourself and only a teeny tiny leap from replacing wiper blades and air filters to this.
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Sep 28, 2022 16:12
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I remember changing plugs with dad as a kid, the big thing seemed to be using the feeler gauges to gap them correctly. I could probably swing that.
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Sep 28, 2022 16:15
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Huxley posted:I remember changing plugs with dad as a kid, the big thing seemed to be using the feeler gauges to gap them correctly. I could probably swing that. You don't have to do that anymore. In fact, you should not do that with your CRV. Here's a guy on youtube doing it. I don't mean to minimize how absolutely perplexing cars are if you have no idea wtf but this one really is a great place to get started. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XztUnT_BerQ
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Sep 28, 2022 16:19
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Do not measure the gap of precious metal plugs unless you use pin gauges. Do not try to adjust the gap yourself unless you know what you're doing or are okay with potentially damaging the center electrode and dealing with the consequences (probably just have to replace that plug). Finally, don't use antiseize.
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Sep 28, 2022 16:29
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Bouncing around car ideas. I’ve got a 1995 Mazda Miata with 110k miles. I’ve had it since 40k miles. Hardly every drive it. 2004 wrx wagon, 220k miles with a dicked motor and everything to do a full sti drive train swap except the time. And a daily 08 civic si with 120k miles. I mostly mountain bike these days, with some competition shooting and wood work on the side. I don’t really autocross any more and I don’t care enough to track day. Friend is selling their 1998 4Runner manual 4x4. 240k miles, owned since about 100k miles. Maintenance mostly documented but is due for timing belt and tires and has a few oil leaks. Clear coat is gone, interior isn’t trashed but isn’t clean, frame is clean. They want 4K for it. Considering just selling the civic and buying the runner cause gently caress it. I can get 4-5 years out of that and come out cash positive. Sell the Miata too. Then wait out the truck market. Downsides, the civic is pretty clean and nice. The runner is ragged. And I’ve come to like having a car that doesn’t look beat. Just seems like a not beat manual runner is like $10-20k.
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Sep 28, 2022 16:33
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Sadi posted:
I wish I had the money for a car like that   This was my first car, I love old mazdas
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Sep 28, 2022 16:48
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I wish I had the money for a car like that **edit, making a new thread for this so I don't shitpost in here oops Share your vehicular history over in this thread: Thread for sharing your list of vehicles that you've owned VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Sep 28, 2022 |
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Sep 28, 2022 17:14
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VelociBacon posted:This actually brings up a cool thing, I'd love to see people's automotive histories in here. I'm pretty sure I'm not going to remember all my vehicles but I think it'd be fun to try: Not counting the various child moving vehicles, 1984 Renault Le Car, drove until a tornado dropped an airplane on it 1991 Mitsubishi Galant, sold to buy 1994 Ford Ranger, gave to brother and bought 2005 Honda Civic, drove it until parts started falling off, sold to coworker, bought 2008 Miata
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Sep 28, 2022 17:21
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you should make a thread for that as its gonna just dominate the dumb questions thread
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Sep 28, 2022 17:21
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:you should make a thread for that as its gonna just dominate the dumb questions thread Yeah you're right I'll make it and link it here. Thread for sharing your list of vehicles that you've owned VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Sep 28, 2022 |
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Sep 28, 2022 17:23
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:As I posted before, the CRV has a chain which is a lifetime part, but the Accord has a timing belt and you should definitely get that replaced. Depends on which engine is in the Accord. If it's a four cylinder then it's another EarthDreams direct injected K24, identical to the CR-V one with a chain and all. If it's a V6 then yes it has a timing belt that absolutely needs to be changed. But yes that era of Honda is generally very simple to work on, and also super reliable.
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Sep 28, 2022 17:52
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Oh, the owners manual claimed a timing belt requirement so I just believed it
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Sep 28, 2022 18:52
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Oh, the owners manual claimed a timing belt requirement so I just believed it I think that generation of Accord is the last one available with either engine. The new ones are all four cylinders, and the big Hondas that still get the J35 don't have a four cylinder option.
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Sep 28, 2022 19:03
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