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Well then, that saves me some money that I could use on a life insurance policy instead  My parents always had them on our cars and we never hit a deer but our tiger repellant rock had similar success.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:16
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I think I'd rather die in a car wreck than have a whistle on my car that everyone has to hear whenever I drive by. I imagine because of how sound works and the fact you're travelling toward the intended recipient that the whistle can be heard for a long time after you go by and a very short time before you go by. I would expect with deer being stupid assholes that they'd just stop on the road and look around for the sound anyways.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:29
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https://youtu.be/kSgYtmCnyYw
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Oct 3, 2022 21:31
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I never heard the ones on my mom's minivan, I assumed that it was like a dog whistle where deer have a different audible range but I never put a ton of thought into it. Just as a kid "My parents think these work = these work" and I never challenged it later on.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:37
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The day you realize your parents are as dumb as anyone else is when you become an adult, free from their influence.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:45
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StormDrain posted:The day you realize your parents are as dumb as anyone else is when you become an adult, free from their influence. I’ve been an adult since I was 11 or 12 then…. Others that know me would say I am still not an adult. Now I’m confused, and posted about it in the wrong thread.
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Oct 3, 2022 22:46
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22 Eargesplitten posted:[...]Just as a kid "My parents think these work = these work" and I never challenged it later on. I don't think you should feel bad because probably every single person has had this experience in some way, at least it's a whistle mod for a car and not believing that mystery man in the sky has a special plan for you or something. I for example thought unions were a scam and that I was smart and handsome until I realized these were just incorrect beliefs my parents had. Whoops!
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Oct 3, 2022 22:51
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Now I'm just picturing the goats yelling from Thor: Love and Thunder every time you round the corner.
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Oct 3, 2022 23:21
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Good goddamn I'd love to have a screaming-goat sound effect I could play through a bullhorn speaker on my car
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Oct 3, 2022 23:59
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kastein posted:9th gen F series is 92-96, it's gonna be a creaky old EEC-IV system not a carb. This. And it'll run on that 2 year old gas if you add a few gallons of fresh. Source: Stepdad let his 92 sit for a good while. Did have to replace the fuel pump a bit later though.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:01
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How do OEMs splice wires to join 3+ terminals together? I want to use this TE relay/fuse box, which is based on the Deutsch GT sealed contact design. For various reasons, I don't want to use a relay box with built-in bus bars (and that wouldn't solve all my splices needs anyway). I've seen bussed Deutsch connectors, but with a per-contact limit of 13A. I need a 5-way splice that can take at least 20A. I feel like I'm missing some key component in these Single Wire Seal systems. Just to be clear wrt the quality level I'm after, here is the hierarchy of vehicle wiring: 1) OEM. 2) Commercial vehicle. 3) Car audio. 4) Redneck. I am looking for solutions in category 1, and maybe, grudgingly, category 2. If I ripped apart the relay box and wiring harness of a 10 year old Toyota, what would I find? e: Simple example, if I wanted a single relay output to control two cornering lights. I specifically want to know how these splices are handled within the overall OEM weatherproof wiring strategy. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 00:06
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kastein posted:9th gen F series is 92-96, it's gonna be a creaky old EEC-IV system not a carb. My bad, this was me pretending to know Fords better than I did I guess and I got busted. I still learned a lot from watching junkyard digs though.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:13
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ryanrs posted:How do OEMs splice wires to join 3+ terminals together? I want to use this TE relay/fuse box, which is based on the Deutsch GT sealed contact design. For various reasons, I don't want to use a relay box with built-in bus bars (and that wouldn't solve all my splices needs anyway). If you're no good at soldering, use a Wago or a scotch lok. Wago: HTCELLE Lever Wire Connectors,75 Pcs Wire Connector Assortment Pack Compact Splicing Connector Kit for Electrical Wires Solid Stranded Flexible Wires, 2 port, 3 port, 5 port https://a.co/d/b9KFfq2 Scotch lock: 3 M S UR Scotchlok Connector Terminals - 100pk https://a.co/d/h5WlklF Wagos are probably better because I'm sure they have some within your voltage / amperage range. Just got to read the box nitrogen fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 00:17
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Those feel like category 3 solutions, which is seriously not what I'm after. Toyota does not put wago connectors and scotchloks in the engine compartment, I'm pretty sure.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:22
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ryanrs posted:Those feel like category 3 solutions, which is seriously not what I'm after. Then learn to solder. Soldering with heat shrink is the best option nitrogen fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 00:37
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I've seen your van thread, if you don't already know how to solder you'd be able to figure it out. Cover the wire with adhesive (hot glue) lined heat shrink. Alternatively mount a terminal block and use ring terminals with a good crimper but personally I wouldn't do anything unsealed under the hood.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:54
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I can solder 0402 passives and 0.5mm pitch chips. Fundamentally, my question is about how OEMs like Toyota and Ford design cars. There is not much heat shrink tubing in the van that I've seen (but I haven't looked that carefully). Sorry if this is the wrong place for this question. The stupid questions thread is probably too focused on problem solving, but I didn't see a dedicated electrical thread. This is more like a car design / manufacturing question.
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Oct 4, 2022 01:03
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nitrogen posted:Then learn to solder. Soldering with heat shrink is the best option Nah. You get stress risers where the solder ends and it'll eventually fail. tier 1/2 typically is a brass/copper crimp. Use marine heatshrink over it. (other tier 2 poo poo in commercial land will use a lug and hang eyelets off of it)
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Oct 4, 2022 01:15
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What is it that you're trying to do that requires three wires joined/spliced?
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Oct 4, 2022 01:30
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Avoid buying a bus bar
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Oct 4, 2022 01:34
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ryanrs posted:I can solder 0402 passives and 0.5mm pitch chips. I think the answer is that they just don't have the need for them. Things are daisy chained and fuse boxes provide all the bussing needed.
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Oct 4, 2022 01:44
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nitrogen posted:My bad, this was me pretending to know Fords better than I did I guess and I got busted. this is a cool channel btw!! i love watching the beasts awaken
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Oct 4, 2022 03:48
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Agreed, I will never own anything like 99% of the vehicles they work on (I have a sick desire for an Eagle wagon swapped to a 4.0 High Output from an XJ) but it's a great watch.
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Oct 4, 2022 04:27
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thetan_guy42 posted:this is a cool channel btw!! i love watching the beasts awaken It's one thing to awaken a long slumbering beast. It's another to jab a hot iron in its rear end and get it to do something.
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Oct 4, 2022 04:32
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ryanrs posted:How do OEMs splice wires to join 3+ terminals together? I want to use this TE relay/fuse box, which is based on the Deutsch GT sealed contact design. For various reasons, I don't want to use a relay box with built-in bus bars (and that wouldn't solve all my splices needs anyway). You're missing motorsport style harness work, which in my opinion is a mix of tier 0 and tier 2-2.5. they'll do amazing stuff like concentric wound harnesses totally covered in raychem dr25 with special y shaped heatshrink boots at every branch, but then think nothing of making their own coiled cable (think old land line phone cord) with a pile of wires covered in heatshrink that's held wrapped around a pencil while it cools, and will just straight up Dremel a chunk of PCB out of an ECU, solder wires to the back of the board, and pot it all in epoxy with no stress relief because no one sells a male pin wire-mount version of the connector they need. It's a wild world. Scotchlok are trash. Wire nuts are trash. Non brazed ferrule crimps like you'll find at the parts store (the not heatshrink ones... The heatshrink ones are good) are trash. Solder is more of a religious debate, but I'm on the anti solder side with csb. The OEM solutions are normally: - shorting bar / bussed connectors. These are mostly interior harness style, and used for diag (you can unplug the shorting bar to split things out, then jumper the connections you want back together, for example to eliminate a device from a bus) but there are Deutsch ones available as you noted. - open ferrule/ "w crimp" / "B crimp" plus sealant lined/double wall heatshrink. This was the standard for many harnesses in the 80s and 90s. It requires a crimper that isn't the regular red blue yellow style, but it's reliable and easily sealed, just need to make sure to get sealant between the wires if more than one comes out of an end of the heatshrink. - ultrasonic welded. This is expensive and not worth doing if you aren't doing at least semi pro level production work. It's identical to the open ferrule style except the ferrule doesn't exist, you use a 4-5 figure ultrasonic welder instead. Sealing procedures are the same. Weight is several milligrams lower. - most redneck, but acceptable in my eyes: the non OEM method of doing the open ferrule style connection if you don't have the crimper. You total up the cross sectional area of the wires you need to splice, and find a combination that allows you to split them into two groups that each fall within the acceptable cross sectional area of a given heatshrink butt splice. Cram them in there and crimp. I've done this for stuff like B+ feeds to 6 injectors and had 3 or 4 wires coming out each end. You'll want to pump some high temp hot glue (match the glue melting temp to the sealant on the heatshrink, or just wing it, your call) in between the wires right after crimping and right before turning the heat gun on it, because the butt splices don't often have enough sealant volume to fill in between the wires as they're not designed for this. An example of the last one: - say we need to connect 6 18awg fuel injector wires to a 14awg B+ wire and an 18awg ignition coil primary feed - that's a total of 0.75*7 + 2.5 = 7.75mm2 - divide by 2 to get approximate size of each end of butt splice needed, 3.875mm2 - that's right under 12awg. I would put the 14awg and two 18awg in one end and the other 5x 18awg in the other end. I would test fit a blue (14-16awg) butt splice first and if it fits without giving any wires a haircut, run it. If not, I would use a yellow (12-10) knowing I need to pull test it carefully because one end is 0.25mm2 light on conductor cross section, or possibly strip one wire double length and fold it over to make sure there's enough cross section in there for a good crimp. After a while doing this you'll stop actually doing the math and just kind of eyeball it tbh. I always err on the overfull splice side rather than the underfill side. Edit: here's an ultrasonic welder in action. https://youtu.be/yLGiY6Ehofo kastein fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 05:16
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Goddamn that was interesting. I have been using uninsulated butt connectors, crimping them with the pointiest crimping spot on my pliers, give it a tug test and slide heatshrink over the whole thing.
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Oct 4, 2022 05:24
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I forgot to mention that method. The "pointiest spot in my crimpers" part makes me cringe, and I hope you're using double wall (sealant lined, aka marine grade) heatshrink, but it'll work. BTW for anyone who doesn't have one already, the Astro 9477 crimper is my current recommendation for most people. It doesn't have some of the specific dies for stuff like metripack and Deutsch, but you can get weatherpack and amp superseal 1.5 dies for it and it comes with dies that do most common aftermarket stuff. If you don't mind ripping off Astros IP, there are a few functionally identical ones on Amazon as well for cheaper that have the typical bot-generated nonsense brand names. It's your call. I'm not really sure I'd call the IWISS brand one of them, they have a ripoff of the 9477 that I'd buy in a second if I didn't own the real thing already, as I own their high current B-crimp tool and it's easily better quality than 90s Craftsman. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 05:32
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kastein posted:I forgot to mention that method. The "pointiest spot in my crimpers" part makes me cringe, and I hope you're using double wall (sealant lined, aka marine grade) heatshrink, but it'll work. I'll upgrade to the nice heatshrink, I wasn't aware of its existence. It's mostly ebay or parts store heat shrink for now. I have a set of ratcheting crimpers previously recommended but not those you just listed. It just ended in a lot of poor crimps, loose, despite having the connector full or near full or halfway full or any level of wire in it. Now they get a nice dimple and a tug and we're all happy here.
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Oct 4, 2022 06:05
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Love a good dimple&tug
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Oct 4, 2022 07:48
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I heard the Deutsch HDT-48-00 crimper is super loving nice. But is it $343 nice? I don't think this project has enough crimps to amortize that kind of capital investment, alas.
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Oct 4, 2022 08:02
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A squirt of hot glue before shrinking sounds like a reasonable way to weatherproof a bundle of parallel wires.
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Oct 4, 2022 08:20
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ryanrs posted:I heard the Deutsch HDT-48-00 crimper is super loving nice. But is it $343 nice? My work has some stuff with deutsch connectors that use that crimper. Also some release tools that you might want to consider for removing pins from the connector itself. While such a crimper is good and the poo poo works very well, its also super annoying and complicated. I fuckin hate that thing. Its probably not the best idea, but I've foregone crimping those things in the past by putting the wire in the pin and dripping some solder in the back hole. That might be the redneck solution though, but it still works to this day. (10+ years later)
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Oct 4, 2022 11:35
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StormDrain posted:I have a set of ratcheting crimpers previously recommended but not those you just listed. It just ended in a lot of poor crimps, loose, despite having the connector full or near full or halfway full or any level of wire in it. Now they get a nice dimple and a tug and we're all happy here. If you're using decent ratcheting crimpers/correct dies and good terminals it shouldn't pull out. What specifically are you using? Crimped ring terminals are the accepted practice in situations where a failed connection can cause serious consequences including death, multiple millions in property damage, and most importantly to the owners of said equipment, loss of production.
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Oct 4, 2022 15:12
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Last year my partner inherited a 2012 Toyota RAV4 that has: * A lot of smoke stains with a still-lingering smell. * Both sides of the back bumper busted out And we just learned today: * Loose front wheel bearings and totally shot brakes. We got an estimate to get bearings/brakes replaced for $2,300ish, and my partner's feeling pretty demoralized since she didn't expect it to be that bad. She probably drives around 5,000 miles a year so she didn't mind the fact that it was kind of funky, but she doesn't want to throw good money after bad by paying for major repairs on something that's generally unpleasant to be in/look at. My stupid question is: where do people go to get cars professionally detailed/get bodywork done? And does it make sense to put in the money to refurbish the aesthetics on something like that? The idea of 'starting fresh' and driving away with something newer from a dealership is tempting, but I'm pretty sure those thoughts were put into my head by commercials and I shouldn't be underestimating the value of a 2012 Toyota just for aesthetic reasons.
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Oct 4, 2022 19:53
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Scrree posted:Last year my partner inherited a 2012 Toyota RAV4 that has: Define "totally shot brakes" maybe because that sounds like a generalization that a shop would love to put on a quote to imply a dangerous situation when really it's like the pads are low or something. Wheel bearings should be pretty cheap. On Rockauto they're like $100-250 bucks CAD for the hub + bearing as one unit. I would a) figure out exactly what the brakes need and b) order the parts and have an independent shop do the work. e: this is a late response but if you're strapped for cash don't worry about a busted back bumper unless it's getting you pulled over. Best bet there might be to get one from a wrecker that was the same colour from the factory and have a body shop install it. Should be probably 2-400 for the bumper and 1-200 for the installation. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 20:00
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What noises was it making that made you decide to take it to a shop, how many miles. Any flood damage history on the car. Do you live in a salted road area Wheel bearing isn't really a safety issue unless it's making a horrific grinding noise and heating up. You can put many thousands of miles on a "slightly worn bearing" without it needing replacement Also extremely skeptical that you need more than brake pads and maybe the brake lines bled. The reason why I ask about flood damage is I've driven 20 year old Toyotas and they absolutely did not need new wheel bearings or entire new brake systems installed. Water intrusion in your bearings can gently caress them up but it'll take a while
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Oct 4, 2022 20:07
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Hadlock posted:What noises was it making that made you decide to take it to a shop, how many miles. Any flood damage history on the car. Do you live in a salted road area Last I drove it did sound pretty rattlely with a concerning crunching sound everytime you fully turned the wheel in either direction (my partner said, "It's always done that."). In retrospect I exaggerated about the brakes -- the report we got just says all of the pads are "low and rotted" (they do feel like tbh). I'm not sure about the cars history before we got it and I won't have access to it for a few hours -- what's a good website to run through a VIN lookup? Edit: the people who did the estimate are an independent shop near my work that my co-workers have had good experience with. double edit: doesn't mean it's impossible it's a scam, just wanted to note that it's not a dealership telling us we need to pay $500 to have our windshield wiper fluid filter replaced. triple edit: forgot to mention we do live in an area with a long season of salted roads. Scrree fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 20:25
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Scrree posted:Last year my partner inherited a 2012 Toyota RAV4 that has: 2012 Toyota RAV4 is awesome. Fix it up. Fix it for her because you care and you don’t want a wheel to fall off or for her to not be able to stop in a timely fashion. This is not a super difficult job, just dirty and greasy and potentially rusty depending on your locale. Plenty of YouTube videos to show you how to do this step-by-step. For reference I have a much shittier 2004 Toyota matrix and I will never trade it in for anything until i return to the clay from which I sprung.
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Oct 4, 2022 20:38
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I'm generally supportive of putting the money into repairing an otherwise known good vehicle. I don't know specifics like y'alls financial situation, current other transportation options, etc, but I personally would drop 3K on a 2012 Rav 4 no problem assuming everything else mechanically is in good shape. I would expect 3 to 5 good years out of the car too which is going to beat the hell out of making payments on anything in the long run. Auto detailers in your area... check local social media, or instagram. Facebook groups, Nextdoor. I hate social media in general but it's really good for getting local recommendations, especially from businesses that are good enough they don't have to advertise at all. Lots of detailers advertise videos on YT and social media as people love watching things get cleaned. I would expect a 300 to 500 dollar full interior detail, plus Ozone treatment would get rid of almost all the smoke smell. You've got to get rid of the residue on all the hard surfaces and fabrics, and let the Ozone treat the rest you can't get to. It's not the end of the world. I can't comment on the shops quote of 2300 since I don't know exactly what it entails. I don't know what the extent of the damage is to the bumper cover, but I would imagine you could get a used one from a junkyard, or even a replacement one painted and installed for less than 1K from a cheap auto body shop. Depending on the damage I might not even worry about it on a 10/11 year old car unless it was really bad.
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Oct 4, 2022 20:48
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Scrree posted:Last I drove it did sound pretty rattlely with a concerning crunching sound everytime you fully turned the wheel in either direction (my partner said, "It's always done that."). In retrospect I exaggerated about the brakes -- the report we got just says all of the pads are "low and rotted" (they do feel like tbh). A couple things: A sound that presents only upon the wheel being turned to the extreme left or right isn't a wheel bearing. Could be a steering rack issue or strut bearing or maybe something else. Wheel bearings have a sound and they change the sound based on the speed the wheel is rotating and how badly worn the wheel bearings are. Low brake pads (that aren't metal on metal) feel like normal brake pads. Spongyness in the brake pedal or weak braking indicates more a need to bleed the brakes. I have no idea about VIN stuff I'm in another country, someone else can probably help you with that but also I would say that there's little point in paying to know that you have a used car that was involved in an accident - you can see the bumper already etc. What actionable information would you be presented with? I don't think this is a literal scam, it's just a shop seeing a 2012 vehicle that's in rough shape and they're quoting you the normal price they charge to probably replace all four rotors, brake pads, maybe the brake hoses at the wheels, and replace the front wheel hubs/bearings. Shops charge an insane amount for brake stuff relative to how difficult it is to do yourself - probably half that quote or more is for the brakes. I don't know how things bolt up but they may also be pricing an alignment in if that's something you need to do when you replace hubs on the rav4 (probably not). There's a markup when you buy parts through shops and the $200 hub+bearing units above are probably costing you double that or more from the shop for basically the same part. I agree with the other forum users that a 2012 rav4 is, in principle, a vehicle worth spending money on, but I don't think you need to spend $2300 to rectify the issues you're talking about. If you're uncomfortable with doing the work yourself that's quite understandable, but you can still do the research, get the parts from a part store, and bring the new parts to a shop and have them install it, which would save you a ton of money. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 20:48
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