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So I'm trying to build a new pc and it's not booting at all. AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 12-core, 24-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Turbo Graphic Card TURBO-GTX1080-8G ASUS Prime B550-PLUS Ryzen 5000 ATX Motherboard Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 RAM 3600 When I turn press the power button a red cpu light flashes on and off once and the vga and boot lights turn solid but nothing happens after that. Originally I hosed up taking out the cooler and ended up breaking a pin but even after removing it from the socket and replacing the entire cpu the same thing happens. I took out all the components and cleaned all the connection points with a air duster (which shouldn't matter because everything but the video card is new) and I still get the same thing
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Oct 1, 2022 23:59
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Everyone has their own use cases and game preferences, and what may be a bad purchasing decision for one person may be a smart purchasing decision for someone else. CaptainSarcastic saw a good performance uplift and are happy with their purchase. Why the wet blanket act? Oh they should be happy with their purchase. Just saying people with 3600Xs can scoop up a beefy boy on eBay and not worry about the CPU being a significant bottleneck. Its also fine to pay extra for more performance considering you get a second build out of it. Sorry if it come off as me saying it was a bad buy. I was just trying to say the old CPU is still pretty good. edit: Reworded the other post. Congrats on the new build + second build. Its great people can build again. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Oct 2, 2022 |
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Oct 2, 2022 04:56
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DrManiac posted:Originally I hosed up taking out the cooler and ended up breaking a pin Sorry what did you break?
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Oct 2, 2022 20:48
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I'm thinking of going for something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/kM7Ycf/enthusiast-intel-gamingstreaming-build (Not following that exactly - but similar level components. In particular I'm staying well away from ASRock since I've had bad experiences with them in the past). The system it's replacing is a ~8yo i5-4690/GTX 970 so whatever I go for will be a large upgrade. The question I have is whether going DDR5 is worthwhile for the extra cost of mobo/ram, if the system is mostly for gaming? Currently 1080p/60hz (which I realize the new system will be well overspecced for), but a monitor upgrade is likely in the future. vvv Ooh, didn't realize the ~$130 difference going from a 12600k to a 12700k, thanks, that'll save a bit. Hobnob fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Oct 2, 2022 |
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Oct 2, 2022 20:52
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You could afford to spend a bit less on the CPU and a bit more on the GPU. A 12600k and a 3080 would be much better, assuming normal gaming usage.
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Oct 2, 2022 20:54
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Unless you absolutely need something right now I’d wait a few weeks to see how the 13th gen intel benchmarks shake out. It might be worth it if the speculation is correct and it’s a pretty decent bump over the 12th gen
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Oct 3, 2022 00:06
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So my system is starting to get a bit creaky. Currently have a 1070 and an i7-7700k, about 5 years old. Looking to give it a kick in the pants and jump in the ray tracing pool with everyone else Was thinking of grabbing an M2 drive (currently have 2tb mechanical) as well as a 3070. However the cpu is only quad core and it may bottleneck the gpu if I'm understanding correctly? So should I be looking for a 3060 or even dropping down to a 2000 series? I only have to run everything at 1080p as my eyesight sucks and I can't tell the difference between that and 4k.
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Oct 3, 2022 02:30
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The power supply on a relative's computer died that they use mainly for Quickbooks. It's an ancient i7-2600k using onboard graphics, so really anything above 350W is overkill. I am likely going to do a full refresh at some point this year or early next year though. What sized power supply should I be buying to future proof it? Again, business system, runs 2 spinning disks, 2 SSDs, a wireless nic, and will rely on onboard graphics. EDIT: Bonus question. The Corsair RMX 550W was pretty much at the top of my list given my current research, at about $100 from a no-name seller on amazon, $120 for "sold by amazon". The 750W version is actually $10 cheaper, at $110 for "sold by amazon". With an 80Gold power supply, usually going to be consuming <100W, how about how much does it add to the power bill to get the bigger power supply? Any other reasons not to buy the bigger supply? Chuu fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Oct 3, 2022 |
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Oct 3, 2022 03:02
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Chuu posted:The power supply on a relative's computer died that they use mainly for Quickbooks. It's an ancient i7-2600k using onboard graphics, so really anything above 350W is overkill. Any machine with onboard graphics can use the lowest wattage 80+ bronze or better PSU you can find. Buy gold if you want something with better odds of lasting forever. 250W is fine. People are running 12900s in Silverstone SFF cases with 120W PSUs.
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Oct 3, 2022 03:13
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Critical posted:So my system is starting to get a bit creaky. Currently have a 1070 and an i7-7700k, about 5 years old. Looking to give it a kick in the pants and jump in the ray tracing pool with everyone else Hardware Canucks RTX 3080 and RTX 3070 vs GTX 1070 Ti, GTX 1080 and GTX 1080 Ti on a gaming PC equipped with an i7-7700K and one with a i9-10900K. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knPHhzEdpeo I think the 7700K and 3070 pair pretty well. Definitely get that m.2 if your board has space.
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Oct 3, 2022 03:16
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Twerk from Home posted:Any machine with onboard graphics can use the lowest wattage 80+ bronze or better PSU you can find. Buy gold if you want something with better odds of lasting forever. 250W is fine. This is what I thought, although the i5-13600K maxing out at 180W gives me a little pause going as low as 300W for something I don't want to have to touch for 10 years. I am willing to pay more for better quality though. I am having trouble finding power supplies that I trust (and the carry 10 year warranties that shows the manufacturer trusts them) under 550W. Any suggestions?
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Oct 3, 2022 03:18
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spunkshui posted:Definitely get that m.2 if your board has space. Yeah, this. If you're still running a mechanical platter, and not in a Pentium 2 system, a solid state drive is the single biggest QoL upgrade you can possibly make to your computer.
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Oct 3, 2022 03:22
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Chuu posted:This is what I thought, although the i5-13600K maxing out at 180W gives me a little pause going as low as 300W for something I don't want to have to touch for 10 years. I am willing to pay more for better quality though. I am having trouble finding power supplies that I trust (and the carry 10 year warranties that shows the manufacturer trusts them) under 550W. Any suggestions? That product basically doesn't exist for cheap in a normal ATX form factor, so I'd just get a Thermaltake Toughpower GX2, $50 for the 600W which is cheaper than the 500W. 80+ Gold, good enough. Warranty is only 5 years, but its half the price of anything 80+ gold with a 10 year. If you really, really want that 10 year warranty, $130 gets you a Seasonic FOCUS PX-550, a Platinum-rated PSU with fanless mode that will never even kick the fan on once under the kind of loads you're talking about.
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Oct 3, 2022 03:27
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spunkshui posted:Hardware Canucks This is perfect, thank you. Looks like if I do want to upgrade my display in the near future it will scale well. Arrath posted:Yeah, this. If you're still running a mechanical platter, and not in a Pentium 2 system, a solid state drive is the single biggest QoL upgrade you can possibly make to your computer. Thankfully I do have a smaller ssd I run windows off of, but most of the gaming runs off the mechanical. Although when I got this thing and it booted in about 15 seconds I just spent five minutes opening and closing programs immediately while giggling.
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Oct 3, 2022 03:37
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the CPU is old enough that it would very much be worth upgrading though, even just to a 5600 or 12400 do you care about high framerates or is your monitor only 60fps or are you planning to upgrade it at some point too? i would probably aim for the 3060 Ti if what you really care about is raytracing at 1080p, but it's potentially worth waiting a month to see what RDNA3 is shaping up to be because if it's competitive with the 30-series in raytracing then that might be much better value when mid-range cards are out likely early next year.
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Oct 3, 2022 03:47
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spunkshui posted:Hardware Canucks I’m bottlenecked as hell on my 7700k/3080, especially shooting for 1440p/144.
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Oct 3, 2022 13:58
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But the best deal I could find was a SFF so I had to get her a new case. I know it kind of defeats the purpose but at the same time, my girlfriend's a lot happier with a clean white NZXT 510i than an old HP sheet metal box. She also needed a new PSU to account for the GPU, and since I knew I'll be upgrading soon-ish, I instead got myself a beefier one and gave her my old 550W. I was looking for a GPU to pair with her i5 but I really couldn't find anything that made sense (anything that seemed priced fairly was something she'd have to change when she'd upgrade her CPU) so I got myself a (surprisingly affordable) 3070 Ti so she could have my 2070 Super. While looking for all that I noticed that there were amazing deals on Ryzen 7 5700X (like, I could get the CPU and MoBo for about what I'd pay for the Elitedesk), so I thought having to pay for RAM and an SSD was worth it for better timings and not-used storage so I scrapped the Elitedesk idea and decided to go with all new parts. But then I started to think that paying a bit more for Intel 12th gen would make sense to allow an upgrade to (at least) 13th gen, so I got an i5 12600k, and then I thought that it would make a lot more sense to pair it with my new 3070 Ti so I decided to keep it for myself and give her my still very respectable 9600k (already OCed to a very stable 5GHz). Since she was basically getting my entire computer at this point I thought I'd save on frustration and keep my Noctua NH-U12a on there ( I JUST reapplied thermal paste), but since she has a glass panel and I don't, I bought another U12a but Chromax black and switched our fans, so I have the black fins with trademark beige fans and she gets aluminium fins with black fans. I also left the RAM in there and got me some 4000MHz DDR4. So instead of a 700$ starter build I ended up basically buying a new computer to allow myself to give my old one away. As penance for keeping the better one I had such a poo poo time building them... In her case the case (ha!) was so cramped it took me like 10 minutes to plug in the CPU power, and in my case when I first tried to start the computer I'd get failure LEDs and a boot loop. I have no idea what fixed it because after trying a few things I still had to let it boot loop a few times before it finally posted so maybe all I had to do was wait (that MoBo boot looped 4-5 times when I updated the BIOS so maybe it's "normal" behavior). CordlessPen fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 3, 2022 20:10
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CPU power is always the worst loving cable to plug in. So don't worry; you are not alone in spending way too long trying to plug it in. It usually involves a lot of swearing and some scraped knuckles for me. First boot usually takes longer as the mobo goes through memory training. Sometimes you have to wait a minute for it to happen. Happy to hear it all worked out. Critical posted:So my system is starting to get a bit creaky. Currently have a 1070 and an i7-7700k, about 5 years old. Looking to give it a kick in the pants and jump in the ray tracing pool with everyone else Ray tracing is a CPU-heavy task and the 7700K will bottleneck a 3070 pretty often. I think you should still get it and an m.2 because getting a 3060 would probably not be enough of an upgrade to be worth it, but you should look to upgrade that CPU too at some point in the future. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Oct 3, 2022 |
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Oct 3, 2022 22:23
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https://pcpartpicker.com/user/coffinswodean/saved/#view=qVR3wP 3090 build, I'm in the US, ain't going to 3 hours to the Atlanta Microcenter. Gaming/vr and photoshop mostly. ~3000 USD. My monitor is 1440p, 144hz refresh rate, g-sync. Does this looks alright, or am I messing up anything? VVVV Yeah? drat, I was hoping to assemble it before my brother's birthday on the 20th, and give him this one with a newer card and case. Thanks a lot guys, I guess he'll be getting a card. Catpetter fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 04:30
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Catpetter posted:https://pcpartpicker.com/user/coffinswodean/saved/#view=qVR3wP I’d wait for the 13th gen intel chips with that budget
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Oct 4, 2022 04:37
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I'd also wait for the 3090 price to drop more. Give it a month, and you'll probably find a decent number for well under $1000 (there have already been a few flash sales at ~$900 and under) edit: And don't buy an OEM windows key at full price. Go to SA mart and you'll find people selling windows 10 keys that can be upgraded to windows 11 for $15.
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Oct 4, 2022 04:45
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I'd also wait for the 3090 price to drop more. Give it a month, and you'll probably find a decent number for well under $1000 (there have already been a few flash sales at ~$900 and under) Or maybe slot in the proper 4080 in there? I dunno. I’d probably wait for some benchmarks on both things before pulling the trigger though.
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Oct 4, 2022 04:47
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Yeah, the 4080 16GB is coming in november and will probably be a decent bit better for $100 more than that $1100 zotac 3090.
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Oct 4, 2022 04:48
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I have a new budget workstation build, but need some advice on the mainboard: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB ASUS Prime B550-Plus Everything else I'll reuse from my present setup. Not interested in overclocking, most of the intensive stuff I do is in Blender or Krita. The ASUS mainboard seemed popular and not too expensive, that's why I chose it. The only thing I'd like from my mainboard is a BIOS that allows some granular fan control, that's it. Oh yeah, and a slot for M2 SSDs, but that's standard now I guess. The Corsair RAM was another popular choice, and cheap.
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Oct 4, 2022 12:30
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I'm looking to replace my desktop this fall and would appreciate some input. I don't do a lot of gaming right now but want the ability to put a powerful GPU in there should that change. I like to do some occasionally video editing and want to run a VM for testing pirated software and also for connecting to my work PC. I've written some brief comments underneath some of the parts to explain my choices, any feedback would be appreciated: CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K or AMD Ryzen 7 7700X -waiting for Raptor Lake reviews to decide CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 -picked the cooler because it's well reviewed and powerful, wondering if it'd be worth it to step up to an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 since the case offers the space for it but I've never installed an AiO (noise?) Motherboard: Z690 or B650, depending on the CPU Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 -good reviews, high speeds and a 5 year warranty Video Card: Zotac MINI GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Video Card -I already own this Case: Fractal Design Torrent -good reviews, already bought as I got it on sale Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G6 850 W 80+ Gold -recommended by the PSU google doc, wondering if I should step up to 1000w so I'd be able to put a 5090 in should I feel like it without having to take the whole system apart
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Oct 4, 2022 15:51
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Dumb question: I'm totally overhauling my PC. New mobo, RAM, GPU, CPU, and power supply. My question is, when I hook up my current storage drives via the SATA connections, will the build just boot right into Windows, or is it going to fail because everything is new? Basically, can I just plug and go, or do I need to do the USB boot thing for the first time?
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Oct 4, 2022 17:41
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Zipperelli. posted:Dumb question: I'm totally overhauling my PC. New mobo, RAM, GPU, CPU, and power supply. My question is, when I hook up my current storage drives via the SATA connections, will the build just boot right into Windows, or is it going to fail because everything is new? Set the right boot drive in BIOS, and you should have smooth sailing.
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Oct 4, 2022 17:49
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busalover posted:I have a new budget workstation build, but need some advice on the mainboard: How long do you plan on using this setup? AM4 and DDR4 are dead platforms at this point, so there won't be any upgrading or moving parts (aside from HDDs/GPUs at this point). Just making sure before you commit. Incessant Excess posted:I'm looking to replace my desktop this fall and would appreciate some input. I don't do a lot of gaming right now but want the ability to put a powerful GPU in there should that change. I like to do some occasionally video editing and want to run a VM for testing pirated software and also for connecting to my work PC. I've written some brief comments underneath some of the parts to explain my choices, any feedback would be appreciated: Wait till you're ready to pull the trigger on the CPU, etc, unless you see a good DDR5 or NVME deal. Prices are changing so much day to day and week to week, plus we just don't know what temps will look like for the 13th gen. 7700X may actually benefit from an AIO at higher workloads. It will be louder, but your cooling ceiling is higher than air. If you stick to air I'd probably do D15 on such a spicy chip. You should absolutely be targeting a 1000W(+, just sometimes you get a good deal on higher) PSU based on current GPU and CPU trends if you plan to place the next gen 90 series card. Zipperelli. posted:Dumb question: I'm totally overhauling my PC. New mobo, RAM, GPU, CPU, and power supply. My question is, when I hook up my current storage drives via the SATA connections, will the build just boot right into Windows, or is it going to fail because everything is new? Depends. It might work, or it might not boot. Backup (or store on a storage drive) anything super important just incase.
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Oct 4, 2022 18:07
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The D15 is not that much better than a Dark Rock Pro 4. The D15's fans are allowed to spin a decent bit faster, but the 7700X will probably sit at 95c when under load on either and you may unlock like 20 - 40 more mhz with the D15. And either should also be capable of keeping it decently cool if you do a manual power limit and/or undervolt to manage temps that way. The 13700K is a much spicier chip that is capable of pulling over 200 watts according to early leaked reviews. That's within the wattage Be Quiet claims the DRP4 can handle, but I don't know how much I trust that. It will probably be fine with undervolting and power limit adjustment again, though. (seriously, undervolting is tricky if you want to push it, but doing a light one and applying a power limit is easy and can result in barely any to no performance loss while leading to large improvements to temperatures and reductions in fan noise)
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Oct 4, 2022 21:11
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The AiO would be more suited if I decide to go with Intel then?
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Oct 4, 2022 21:33
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My wife has agreed that next year when I get my work bonus and income tax return that I can spend ~$1500 on building a new PC. I have 3440x1440 monitor and my primary goal is going to be 60fps at high settings. My 1070 just can't do it sadly. I was thinking about just upgrading my graphics card to a 40 series + get a new PSU (the H200i can fit a full ATX power supply). If I get a graphics card that's longer that 323mm I'm going to need a new cooler since getting rid of the AIO will allow me to get a longer GPU. If I'm going to get a new PSU, GPU and potentially a new cooler it feels like I should just get a new CPU and motherboard. Here is my current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Gage26/builds/#view=jP7WGX If I update to a 40s series GPU will I be bottle necked by my 8th gen processor?
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Oct 4, 2022 21:34
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Since you aren’t going high refresh rate I’m leaning toward your current CPU being ok depending on the game. I’d like to think you could get another year out of it.
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Oct 4, 2022 21:44
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I'm trying to build a few prev gen systems from (mostly) ebay which is hard to plan properly on partpicker since retail prices are mostly unrelated. Basic plan is new case/drives/kb/mouse/monitor, used MB/CPU/GPU, ram new unless it comes with a MB/CPU combo. $100-$125 RX 580s still a good deal or is there something better perf wise in that range? I've got one (2?) of them already scattered in machines. Nearly everything they have is hand-me-downs so like an i5-4590 w/HD 6800 onboard graphics and an i5-2500k sporting a 3060 TI FE that I got MSRP. Super eclectic mix. Trying to keep it sub $500 per build since I'm making 2.5ish (one partial upgrade). Kids mostly play minecraft & roblox at 1080p.
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Oct 4, 2022 22:15
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Harik posted:I'm trying to build a few prev gen systems from (mostly) ebay which is hard to plan properly on partpicker since retail prices are mostly unrelated. Basic plan is new case/drives/kb/mouse/monitor, used MB/CPU/GPU, ram new unless it comes with a MB/CPU combo. You really should put that 3060 Ti in the machine with the best CPU. That GPU is the most powerful piece of hardware we're talking about here by a lot, and it needs a decent CPU to match As for that price for an RX 580, I guess that's fine? Especially if you can get them close to $100. I can't think of anything else better for that kind of money, but I don't know the used market very well right now.
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Oct 4, 2022 22:21
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Yeah, agree 100% with that. It's where it is because the 4590 motherboard has onboard graphics and the 2500k doesn't and they're both so old it doesn't really matter. That'd be the ".5" in the upgrade, putting a dgpu in so i can move the 3060ti to a better system.
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Oct 4, 2022 22:37
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Zipperelli. posted:Dumb question: I'm totally overhauling my PC. New mobo, RAM, GPU, CPU, and power supply. My question is, when I hook up my current storage drives via the SATA connections, will the build just boot right into Windows, or is it going to fail because everything is new? It will almost certainly boot, but you might not have any network drivers once you get into Windows, so that's something to keep in mind (maybe download them in advance). Generally speaking, you only need a bootable USB stick to repair bootloader problems, and upgrading hardware components doesn't usually cause those. The bootloader needs working hardware, a working BIOS and an uncorrupted Windows drive to boot from, so as long as your new fancy system doesn't come with a component that's dead on arrival, you should get past this step - it doesn't really care what hardware it's booting on, there aren't any drivers loaded yet by the time it runs. The next step is booting the kernel though and since that's when drivers are loaded, that's where you hypothetically can get in trouble. You probably won't have a lot of the drivers you want, but Windows these days is pretty good at handling this gracefully (although it might have to fall back on things like a wonderful 640x480 desktop resolution), so you can get to the desktop and start installing new drivers. In the off chance that you get some weird driver problem here and hit a bluescreen or something, you can most likely resolve it by just booting into safe mode, so a bootable USB stick isn't necessary. Still, it doesn't hurt to be prepared, especially not if you don't have another computer easily accessible. You need a computer to troubleshoot computer problems. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 23:45
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Incessant Excess posted:The AiO would be more suited if I decide to go with Intel then? If you’re willing to deal with a much higher noise and much higher cost, yes.
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Oct 5, 2022 00:18
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If AIOs have higher noise and more cost then what’s the point? Genuinely asking
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Oct 5, 2022 00:48
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Narrowing down on actual parts a bit, I'm wondering about manufacturers, since my experience is 8 years or so out of date. Wondering if anyone has more recent opinions or horror stories. Mobo I will probably go Asus, with Gigabyte or MSI a possibility. This is for an intel/Z690 board. Graphics card I would previously go MSI, gigabyte or PNY. Are Zotac any good? Coolers I have no idea about, I think my previous one was a hyper212. Any recommended or must-avoid companies? Memory I would usually go crucial or corsair. Still good? Do Fractal Design still make decent cases? Any companies to avoid for SSDs or PSUs?
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Oct 5, 2022 00:52
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Lackmaster posted:If AIOs have higher noise and more cost then what’s the point? Genuinely asking AIOs tend to be quieter under load but they have a higher noise floor at idle due to the pump, so it's a more balanced setup. Some AIOs have fairly quiet pumps too (e.g. Arctic Liquid Freezer II), so they can absolutely be quieter in most scenarios. "Much higher noise" is pretty big hyperbole in my opinion.
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Oct 5, 2022 00:59
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