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My Spirit Otter posted:Pretty sure its named that because its the base for the non-furry parts of skaven It is. But I imagine looking at a paint rack and seeing your skin tone labeled as "ratskin" is not a great feeling.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:18
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IncredibleIgloo posted:A while ago I recommended Behr spray paints in this thread. I did so because they were inexpensive and covered really nicely. i use brush on primer 
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Oct 4, 2022 00:22
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Test scheme for my Leagues of Votann custom color scheme. All Contrast paint except the metallics. I like it, especially with the dark purple moon rock base. Considering a darker brown for the cloth but maybe the current lighter color is good?
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Oct 4, 2022 00:23
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IncredibleIgloo posted:A while ago I recommended Behr spray paints in this thread. I did so because they were inexpensive and covered really nicely. Would it be possible to coat it with a (non-acrylic) satin or matte varnish first, to help with the adhesion of the Contrast paints? At least that way you wouldn't have to re-prime everything and risk losing details.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:30
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Floppychop posted:It is. But I imagine looking at a paint rack and seeing your skin tone labeled as "ratskin" is not a great feeling. Thats fair, either all mythical names like ratskin or undead flesh or all respectful names.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:42
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Well, instead of making all flesh tones have nice names, just make all the caucasian skin tones have gross fantasy names too. Naked Mole-Rat Flesh Bloated Bog Corpse Flesh Irish
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Oct 4, 2022 00:47
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Irish Then up to Pale Irish and finally Irish Gamer, a fluorescent white colour shifting hue that deepens to a lively pink when exposed to light.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:55
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Ya thats what i was meaning, either all or nothing.
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Oct 4, 2022 00:55
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Well, instead of making all flesh tones have nice names, just make all the caucasian skin tones have gross fantasy names too. it is kinda weird how one of the best skin tones is just called BUFF
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Oct 4, 2022 01:05
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Spanish Manlove posted:it is kinda weird how one of the best skin tones is just called BUFF Short for buffalo, since the color resembles buffalo hide.
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Oct 4, 2022 01:12
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Also a sleeper hit white people skin color I've found has been Iraqi Sand from vallejo model color.
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Oct 4, 2022 01:14
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My go-to recipe for Caucasian skin lately has been actually using a couple of craft paints for base color and highlight (I forget the exact brands for sure, but I think the base color is called "Cantaloupe" and the highlight is Delta Ceramcoat's "Fleshtone", something like that). Then I do a wash of like 1 part Reikland Fleshshade (note that this is the old version of Reikland Fleshshade, not the new reconfigured mix of it) and 3 or 4 parts Contrast Medium. The mix flows right into the recesses and only very slightly tints the underlying colors. For African-American skintones, I start with something like AP Banshee Brown, and then overexaggerate the highlights with a much much lighter color like VMC Pale Sand. Then I apply one of the Contrast shades of brown, depending on how dark I want the skin to be. It's important to make sure the highlights for that particular skin tone are much lighter than you might normally think; I read something years ago that pointed out how, although the skin of a person with darker skin has fewer highlights than that of a Caucasian person, the highlights that are on their skin tend to be much more pronounced, so the highlights have to be exaggerated even more so than normal when painting in 28mm scale. I plan on doing up some Salamanders before long using that method, because I'm going to paint them up the old school way (i.e., back when the lore had them as normal looking space marines with African-American skin tones, instead of the current "dudes with coal black skin and glowing red eyes").
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Oct 4, 2022 01:34
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My Spirit Otter posted:Pretty sure its named that because its the base for the non-furry parts of skaven Nah, it'd be named for the Ratskin gang from old necromunda.
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Oct 4, 2022 02:20
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Would it be possible to coat it with a (non-acrylic) satin or matte varnish first, to help with the adhesion of the Contrast paints? At least that way you wouldn't have to re-prime everything and risk losing details. That is a good idea!
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Oct 4, 2022 06:54
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Where we are going, we don't need rules! XPost from the good place.Major Spag posted:Not even picking stuff for list making: just paintin' heresy!
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Oct 4, 2022 21:19
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 Apologies for the absolute state of my painting desk  Here's all the not-ST:TOS stuff I printed and have painted up so far, minus the bases they're pretty much done (they're a bit glossy as I put gloss coats on the shirts to protect them after painting them). The red and blue shirts were painted with inks (Daler-Rowney's FW Crimson and Liquitex Cerulean Blue Hue) over a sort-of zenithal that was done with gray overbrushed up to white. The "gold" shirt (which, in reality on the show, was actually a greenish shade, but it looked gold thanks to the color correction done for color TVs at the time) was painted with AP Air Yellow Dune, which was thinned down to a glaze and painted over a slightly different type of zenithal; in this case it was more a slightly darker yellow that was washed with sepia and then overbrushed up to a light buff type of color. I still have a "Scotty" figure that needs to be printed and painted (and maybe eventually Sulu and Chekov), and I just have to figure out how I want to do their bases, but otherwise I'm pretty happy with how this crew turned out. E: I forgot to detail the "recipes" I used for the blue and red shirts. The red shirts were done by thinning down the Crimson ink with some Liquitex Fluid Matte Medium, I forget the exact ratio but it was like 3 or 4 drops of medium to about 5 or 6 drops of ink, something like that. The ink is fairly transparent on its own, but it goes on a lot smoother with a brush if it's thinned with the medium. It was a bit splotchy at first but each subsequent coat helped smooth things out until the blotchiness was gone. For the blue shirts, I tried adding one drop of the Liquitex blue ink (which is fairly opaque) to about 5 or 6 drops of Contrast Medium. I ended up having to redo the highlights and shadows slightly as the ink was still pretty opaque and tended to overpower the sort-of zenithal prime. I used a light blue AP paint (though I forget which one offhand) to redo the highlights and thinned down the ink/Contrast mixture a bit more before reapplying it, then redid the shadows by gloss coating the shirts and using a thinned bit of Contrast Space Wolves Grey (like a 3:1 mixture of Contrast medium to paint) so that it flowed into the recesses without staining the raised areas. If I ever paint any more blue-shirted Starfleet figures, I'll probably add more Contrast medium to the initial mix so I avoid having the paint be too opaque like I did with the "Spock" and "McCoy" figures here. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Oct 5, 2022 |
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Oct 5, 2022 01:54
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Finished my second Battletech mech. These being the same size as intercessors is nice, no dreading the hours to paint a squad or big 40K thing. 
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Oct 5, 2022 04:41
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Figured out a color scheme for my lizard guys
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Oct 6, 2022 01:24
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Toebone posted:Figured out a color scheme for my lizard guys Those are OPR, right? How do you like the mini quality?
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Oct 6, 2022 01:26
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Going to call this project done  
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Oct 6, 2022 01:35
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Going to call this project done this is terrible and you should feel ashamed of yourself... is what i say to myself when i look at something i painted after looking at this.
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Oct 6, 2022 02:50
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Ohthehugemanatee posted:Those are OPR, right? How do you like the mini quality? There’s a couple models (robot legions in particular) that are a bit too delicate for my bumbling fingers, and the pre-supported files can be a bit hit or miss. I usually end up using lychees auto-supports instead. Other than that, I like the sculpts a lot, and you get a shitload every month. I think they have some free ones on Cults too.
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Oct 6, 2022 02:50
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Yeah I don't really have anything to contribute to that one other than it is a very good paint job
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Oct 6, 2022 02:54
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Going to call this project done I desire this mini, source?
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Oct 6, 2022 03:02
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"Tropical Reef" is the theme of today's painting session
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Oct 6, 2022 04:09
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The Demilich posted:I desire this mini, source? My buddy owns SigmariteBoutique and he gave it to me (it printed with a tiny error and he didn't want to sell it). It would be on his store. Otherwise, if you're searching it, it is the Hindu diety Narasimha, 4th avatar of Vishnu. Stl is somewhere for sale I'm sure.
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Oct 6, 2022 05:40
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Just finished up this guy: 
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Oct 6, 2022 14:18
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Continuing work on the Prussians  Some notes that I'm seeing already: -My brushes are Bad so I'll need decent ones, even the "fine detail" one doesn't hold a tip at all -I need to be more careful with thinning. It's easier when I use dropper bottles, so as I get stuff I'll be looking towards those -Coverage is an issue, I'll need to work on that -Could've been better with the green ink, but it was a trial run just to see how it applies.
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Oct 6, 2022 19:58
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https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-Painting-Miniature-Brushes-Watercolor/dp/B09BR3H9L4 I bought these brushes in July and have been quite happy with them, for cheap brushes. Honestly, if you just buy round watercolour brushes and avoid sizes smaller than 0, a careful clean, followed by a rinse in clean water followed by quickly reshaping the tip in the palm of your hand and you should be able to get decent performance out of synthetic brushes. Mind you I also think your thinning habits, and being careful about how heavily you load them matters too. I’m quite paranoid about paint working it’s way into the ferrule so I clean multiple times during a section of a mini even if I’m using the same colour. I guess my point is that you don’t need super high-end brushes to get good results. (but it helps). I find my cheap brushes are the first ones I grab because I’m not too worried about messing them up, they are cheap to replace.
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Oct 6, 2022 21:07
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Did some plague marines, my first nurgle units. I was asking about the benefits of layering on a zenithal + contrast paint job a while back, and finally have some pieces for comparison. This is the model that had deathguard green layered on it. It looks pretty flat, but also DG green is darker in comparison to the contrast paint so that might be part of the problem. Either way I agree that the highlights still show through somewhat, and makes for an easier painting experience. This is also my first attempt at layering. The tentacles were volupous pink followed by fulgrim pink. The difference between the two colors is probably too vast, and it ended up looking bad.  The new imperial guard contrast is fantastic for puss. 
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Oct 6, 2022 21:07
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Jonny Nox posted:https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-Painting-Miniature-Brushes-Watercolor/dp/B09BR3H9L4 I'm not looking for something high-end, just something that's actually pointed. I definitely need to thin more, but the brushes that came with the Drider kit are these ones:  The "fine detail" one is almost as large as the "general purpose" one, looking like a 2 and a 3 respectively. Neither holds a point and even making them into a point doesn't last after 1-2 strokes of paint. I generally load them very lightly, and as far as I can tell the ferrules are paint-free. Before looking to get anything, I'll see about using one of my friend's brushes, just to make sure I'm not just completely off the mark here. And yeah I definitely am not looking to get unicorn hair sapient pearwood or anything, just like, not have that be an issue
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Oct 6, 2022 21:24
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Bored Online posted:This is also my first attempt at layering. The tentacles were volupous pink followed by fulgrim pink. The difference between the two colors is probably too vast, and it ended up looking bad. I don't think it's bad at all and I think what would make it look better is even more difference between the colours. If you're using a wet palette, next time put a small blob of Voluptupus Pink and then a small blob of Fulgrim Pink about half an inch away and then gently mix half of them towards each other to create a gradient. This way you have a spectrum of colours between the two extremes to pick from to smooth out the transitions on your model.
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Oct 6, 2022 21:27
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Serperoth posted:I'm not looking for something high-end, just something that's actually pointed. I definitely need to thin more, but the brushes that came with the Drider kit are these ones: Yeah, pack-in brushes seem to be universally trash. I would say Art store>Craft Store>FLGS>Miniature or paint company brand, with Amazon of course being all over the place. Get watercolor brushes, you don't need "miniature" brushes. I took this picture to show the different brushes I've bought from worst to best, but ended up deleting that part of the post. The one with orange bristles was a pack-in with my speedpaints and has fly-away bristles despite never being used.
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Oct 6, 2022 21:49
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Jonny Nox posted:Yeah, pack-in brushes seem to be universally trash. Oh man, I already saw a bristle come off the fine detail one on mine, thought it might've been normal. There's a sorta general purpose (toys, crafts etc) store across the street where I got a (dry) palette today, and they seem to have brushes too. Prices are significantly cheaper than the FLGS too, so while I'd like to support them, we're talking multiple times the price... Even the "expensive" sable-hair brushes at the craft store seems to be a bit more than half the price of the equivalent Army Painter so yeah, can't really say no to that. Serperoth fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Oct 6, 2022 |
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Oct 6, 2022 22:13
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Don't want to quote them all, or miss anyone out, but all the minis on this page are loving awesome and I'm proud, jealous, and angry at all of you. Keep posting.
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Oct 7, 2022 00:19
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I'm doing these Eschers in emerald green, red and pink trim, dark skin. I wanted to give them all shocks of white hair maybe with streaks of dyed colour. Just base colours and some contrast is done atm, will be doing some oil washing. Anh suggestions how to pull off good looking strong contrast white hair? Would blocking it in white ink and a black / cobalt oil wash be good..? 
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Oct 7, 2022 01:05
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:I'm doing these Eschers in emerald green, red and pink trim, dark skin. I wanted to give them all shocks of white hair maybe with streaks of dyed colour. If you're doing dyed-white hair, light grey to bright white is good. If you're doing age-based-white hair, light blue to white. In fact, it might look great next to streaks of neon red and pink in the hair, if you go for the "blue" white.
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Oct 7, 2022 01:34
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Serperoth posted:Oh man, I already saw a bristle come off the fine detail one on mine, thought it might've been normal. There's a sorta general purpose (toys, crafts etc) store across the street where I got a (dry) palette today, and they seem to have brushes too. Prices are significantly cheaper than the FLGS too, so while I'd like to support them, we're talking multiple times the price... The dirty secret of hobby supplies is that they're almost all low-grade rebrandings of art or beauty supplies. Get a nice brush from an art store, since it'll work better and last longer, and if you really feel guilty you can buy some dice or snacks or something to keep the difference with your LGS.
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Oct 7, 2022 05:23
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Finally got inspired to get to work on my Warmaster army with an easy, yet nice looking paint scheme. I'd seen something similar over on the Ulthuan.com forums in 28mm, where the guy did his entire army in a white on white scheme, and it does look nice when shrunk down to 10mm. The full album is here, but I'll post a couple of wip pictures here too.  My general, I used Snakebite Leather contrast over Vallejo Metal Silver to get the gold, while the gems are actually automotive paint flakes. I like how they reflect the light almost like a blue opal, though getting it into the mini is a bit of a pain. Looking at it now, I do kinda want to go back and repaint the boots to be the same blueish-black leather that the Spearman gloves are.  A Battle Standard Bearer, though there aren't any rules for that in Warmaster. I figure once I come up with an appropriate design for the banner, I'll plop him on the same base as the general.  A wizard, with the same gold at the top of the staff as was used on the general.   First couple strips of spearmen. Again, not sure what kind of banner to do. I did end up differentiating the metal on the speartips from the armor by washing the armor with thinned Drakenhof Nightshade for a bit of a blueish tint, though I ought to go back and fix the sword on the command strip.
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Oct 7, 2022 17:01
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  I painted a rat man
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Oct 8, 2022 00:26
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