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H110Hawk posted:Replacing light fixtures and swapping outlets are on par with each other assuming you did it safely. Is the wiring in your house old or modern? Basically which picture here is your house: Halfway through the outlets. Halfway because I don’t know WTF the builder was thinking but the outlets share circuits with other ones halfway across the house and half the breakers are labelled kitchen while the other half are labelled heat. While trying to add a dimmer I came across this though.  The switch on the left controls the light above the dining room table and the track lights on the nearby wall. The other switch is a two way switch for our living room light (which is really the other half of one big open space). First, it looks like there are in fact three circuits terminating in that box, and the circuit (presumably) for the track light and dining room light are combined into one circuit in the box. This would explain why the track lights and dining room table light are on the same switch, because it makes no sense otherwise. Second, it looks like the previous person to touch this simply wire nutted the grounds for all three circuits together, rather than connecting them to the switches. Presumably this would mean two options: 1) use the same method and wire nut the grounds for dining room light circuits to a single wire, connect that new ground to the new switch and call it a day. Also connect the other ground at the same time because it’s the responsible thing to do. 2) potentially get a bigger box and have three switches - the two way for the living room and separate switches for each light circuit in the dining room (I’ll probably hire someone for this).
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Oct 9, 2022 02:15
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Adding a switch is straightforward. By far the most annoying part will be removing the existing double gang and getting a triple in there, while minimizing the drywall work needed. Also depending on where you are, there may not have been a requirement to ground those switches directly. I learnt that where I am in Canada, if there is no ground screw, you don't need to tie it in. The screw holding the switch to the box is considered good enough (for metal boxes). I actually have to go far out of my way to find switches with ground wires these days.
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Oct 9, 2022 02:33
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Any recommendations for a caulking or some other product to bridge a 1/4” gap in a hardwood floor?
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Oct 9, 2022 14:48
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BigFactory posted:Any recommendations for a caulking or some other product to bridge a 1/4” gap in a hardwood floor? A 1/4 gap where? Between the floor and the wall? Is there a baseboard already? The usual solution there is shoe mold, but that can be awkward if the whole base isn’t matching. I just patched a 2”x1/4” gap with wood filler that was vaguely color matched with the floor, but it’s in the corner behind a door so not really noticeable.
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Oct 9, 2022 15:46
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I have a water heater (gas, cheap grade) from 2007. I’m mulling over replacing it or not. So far I’ve had to (or wanted to upgrade) everything mechanical/appliance in the house because PO never lifted a finger for maintenance since the house was built in 03 [I guess the original WH failed after 4 years?]. Am I tossing $ out preemptively replacing it? I dare not try replacing the anode or whatever at this point. I told myself I’d wait to replace the house AC and of course it went up in the middle of a heat wave the week we brought a newborn home so I’m a little scarred from that also. But if it should easily last another decade then whatever.
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Oct 9, 2022 15:51
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15 years for a water heater is pretty good. If you can swing it, I’d replace now instead of dealing with a rush request and water leaking everywhere. Not a huge deal for cleanup if it’s in your garage, but anywhere else is going to suck.
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Oct 9, 2022 15:52
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Infinotize posted:A 1/4 gap where? Between the floor and the wall? Is there a baseboard already? The usual solution there is shoe mold, but that can be awkward if the whole base isn’t matching. I just patched a 2”x1/4” gap with wood filler that was vaguely color matched with the floor, but it’s in the corner behind a door so not really noticeable. It’s close to but not right at an edge. Did you just use standard putty-style wood filler or was it a specialized product? I’d be concerned with expansion/contraction I guess, but maybe I shouldn’t be.
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Oct 9, 2022 16:16
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has anyone here dealt with trying to remove biofilm? it's very common the bottom of shower liners (that light orange/pinkish color), because it stays in contact with the shower floor or tub constantly, so it never really dries. I was realizing I should really be fully extending the liner after I shower until it dries instead of pushing it in so it's all bunchy, but I'm guessing it's still going to show up sometimes. I haven't been able to find much info in how to best deal with it, outside of adding white vinegar to the wash cycle, or soaking it in a hydrogen peroxide mix. maybe doing a load just with the liner and adding a bleach pack? https://shop.clorox.com/products/clorox-zero-splash-bleach-packs I cleaned it on hot with my regular detergent, which removed some of the film, but definitely not all of it. obviously I could just throw the liner away after a while and get a new one, but that seems pretty wasteful. it's one of the thicker white ones you get at target.
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Oct 9, 2022 20:13
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I'd toss the liner and get a new one. Leaving it straight so it can dry would be ideal, but it doesn't always happen. They're really cheap for a reason. It reminds me I need to adjust our shower rods up another half inch or so, our liners tend to bunch on the bottom of the tub/shower pan instead of having just above the bottom.
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Oct 9, 2022 21:02
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actionjackson posted:has anyone here dealt with trying to remove biofilm? it's very common the bottom of shower liners (that light orange/pinkish color), because it stays in contact with the shower floor or tub constantly, so it never really dries. I was realizing I should really be fully extending the liner after I shower until it dries instead of pushing it in so it's all bunchy, but I'm guessing it's still going to show up sometimes. I haven't been able to find much info in how to best deal with it, outside of adding white vinegar to the wash cycle, or soaking it in a hydrogen peroxide mix. maybe doing a load just with the liner and adding a bleach pack? Bleaching it should work. Every once in a while I just wash mine hot with the whites and it gets the pink stuff out just fine but it can’t hurt to try bleach. I suppose long term that might degrade the plastic.
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Oct 9, 2022 21:37
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Tiny Timbs posted:Bleaching it should work. Every once in a while I just wash mine hot with the whites and it gets the pink stuff out just fine but it can’t hurt to try bleach. I suppose long term that might degrade the plastic. If it does it takes forever. I've got a shower liner that's seen at least 5 years of getting clorox soaks maybe every three or four months. Nothing fancy, I just throw it in a 5 gallon bucket, dump a bunch of bleach in there, fill with water, and leave it over night. Rinse with the hose when done.
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Oct 9, 2022 22:09
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Edit: I see we addressed it
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Oct 9, 2022 23:36
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actionjackson posted:I cleaned it on hot with my regular detergent, which removed some of the film, but definitely not all of it. Wash on hot with a bunch of Oxyclean, reinstall for it to hang dry.
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Oct 10, 2022 00:25
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I've had great success cleaning the vinyl shower liners (multiple because it's a corner tub with an L-shaped rod) with a combo of steam and industrial vinegar. The steam insta-kills that pink stuff and loosens everything up, but it's super awkward to try to steam clean the liner while it's hanging, so big sponge with vinegar solution works to wipe up loosened grime and also eliminate hard water stains. The steam cleaner is new and I haven't had one before and it is already awesome. It's been able to rapidly pull up gunk that had previously been annoyingly difficult to handle with other cleaners, and as a migraine haver with scent-based triggers, being able to disinfect and kill mildew with zero chemical smells is amazing. The cloth outer curtains can go in the washing machine and can line dry back on the shower rod (and then if there are wrinkles I can get rid of them with the steam cleaner).
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Oct 10, 2022 01:37
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devicenull posted:I'd probably start by cleaning up the corrosion and giving it a good inspection - if you see anything obvious that makes the decision a lot easier. Yeah, you're right. I'm just gonna call in a plumber to replace it. This bathroom has been sitting gutted for years, so I'll have him check the fittings etc. There's also another bit of plastic drainpipe from the master bath upstairs that breaks the plane of the ceiling. I'll have that redone an inch higher so I don't have to fur the ceiling down. Clearance shouldn't be a problem because I can remove and replace framing if necessary. I know I could do it myself but I don't want to! That plus the drain relocation looks like 3, 4 trips to the hardware store easy. Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Oct 10, 2022 |
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Oct 10, 2022 02:50
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Cyrano4747 posted:If it does it takes forever. I've got a shower liner that's seen at least 5 years of getting clorox soaks maybe every three or four months. what about just putting it in the washing machine by itself on hot and adding bleach to that?
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Oct 10, 2022 04:07
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 Good morning to everyone except my bathroom sink.
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Oct 10, 2022 16:51
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VelociBacon posted:Shark or Dyson stuff is good. People will poo poo on Dyson because the guy Mr Dyson is a loving idiot which is true. Our Dyson animal or whatever works fine. I need a vacuum cleaner that can do both rugs and hardwood over a large-ish house. prefer corded, or at the very least, a cordless with a big user-replaceable battery. I'd kinda prefer maybe a ball type instead of brush/roller type because with the brush/roller you gotta like cut out hairs and fibers now and then, and it's annoying. can anyone recommend me a vacuum? only things I see that fit my desires are like $800 dysons. scrolling back through the thread I see people talking about several different dyson models, and then also throwing out some other brands like shark. there is a whole wide world of vacuums!
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Oct 10, 2022 19:07
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pmchem posted:I need a vacuum cleaner that can do both rugs and hardwood over a large-ish house. prefer corded, or at the very least, a cordless with a big user-replaceable battery. I'd kinda prefer maybe a ball type instead of brush/roller type because with the brush/roller you gotta like cut out hairs and fibers now and then, and it's annoying. Have you looked at the Miele C3? We have the Cat & Dog edition and have been extremely happy with it. The versions come with different assortments of heads depending on what the specialty is and they all have HEPA filtering. It's easy to swap heads when going in between hardwood and carpeted rooms, the canister is lightweight and can be pulled around very easily, and because it's canister style, you're not carrying/pushing the motor/bag so it's easy to vacuum for a long time and also reach way up to vacuum curtains and the ceiling and poo poo, and the self-retracting cord actually loving works. One downside is that they're quite expensive, but I've found that it's a worthwhile investment over cheaper models because it's mechanically rock solid and won't need replacement for a very long time, and is way more effective than a cheap model so that you ultimately spend less time vacuuming. Also it's been a godsend for my husband's allergies. Ours has brush rollers and the non-powered upholstery head recently got super jammed up with too much of my super long hair (cat hair isn't a problem for it), but it easily comes apart for cleaning and repairs, and it's the first time in two years it's gotten jammed.
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Oct 10, 2022 19:44
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I have a dyson stick vacuum now and it’s fine, although ultimately I’ve found none of the sticks have the sustained power of plug ins and don’t deep clean well. Despite the marketing they just don’t pull that hard and on max power the batteries don’t last long at all. My ideal vacuum setup (can’t believe I’m imagining such a thing) would be a decent value priced stick for convenience and something like those mieles for more power.
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Oct 10, 2022 20:40
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hmm, those mieles do look good but are also pricey. these two look very tempting at a lower price point -- both corded with danti-tangling/wrap tech, detachable wand, and decent canister: shark: https://direct.sharkclean.com/16/products/shark-stratos-powered-lift-away-az3000/30/microsite/ogi/?opt=1 vs dyson: https://www.dyson.com/vacuum-cleaners/uprights/ball-animal-3/nickel here's a video comparing them (note in comments about dyson brushroll being turned off for part of test): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WW68iTih12A miele is next for me to investigate though, thanks
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Oct 10, 2022 20:42
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Project Farm did a cordless vacuum specific video just recently. His synopsis of best from the models he tested with his categories is at around 21:00 in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTkUNwBo9Ao We've been using a refurbished dyson ball for like 10 years. It's corded and I think it was around $220 on ebay. Other than buying a new filter once (since someone didn't clean it ever) it's been pretty solid.
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Oct 10, 2022 21:48
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I have a Simplicity cordless upright vacuum. It’s really great, automatically switches between carpet and hard surface, and has worked extremely well for 5+ years now. Not cheap, but the best vacuum I’ve owned.
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Oct 10, 2022 22:05
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I have a Shark Navigator that boasted “Anti-hair wrap technology” and “self cleaning brush roll” and it really is true. I have mid-back length hair and a fluffy cat and not once have I had to cut hair off of the brush roll. Mine is kind of neat because you can pull the canister off of the bottom roller and use it with the wand as a canister so it’s lighter to move around. Corded, no automatic cord retraction though.
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Oct 10, 2022 23:45
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Hutla posted:I have mid-back length hair
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Oct 11, 2022 00:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I read this as 'mid-length back hair' I did too. I did a double take
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Oct 11, 2022 00:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I read this as 'mid-length back hair' and trying to find a vacuum that could handle serious back-hair shedding was one of the gooniest things I never actually read. I have a Micromancer cordless, it's heavy duty rated for all types
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Oct 11, 2022 01:04
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How do I properly integrate an exterior vent hood into vinyl siding? All the how-tos on YouTube look like water damage waiting to happen, e.g.:  pmchem posted:miele is next for me to investigate though, thanks We bought a Miele C3 (I think) years ago and later got a Dyson V11 through a rewards program thing. I loved the Miele but the convenience of the bagless & canister-less Dyson can't be beat. My only complaint is that the capacity of V11 is too little for the amount of vacuuming we do with a dog + 3 kids. If I was doing it all over again, though, I'd probably get something like the Dyson Ball. unlimited shrimp fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 02:59
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unlimited shrimp posted:How do I properly integrate an exterior vent hood into vinyl siding? You get the proper vent adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Siding-Vent-Kit-12/dp/B008HQ5T9Q ...and install it so that the top flange slips under the siding run ata seam. Essentially, the height of the exit side of your vent hose is dictated by the nearest siding seam.
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Oct 11, 2022 03:55
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What if I'm replacing a poorly done hood for an existing hole?
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Oct 11, 2022 04:38
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See how the water sheds down the siding. You want the flanging of your vent head to be integrated in such a way that water cannot infiltrate. Whatever you have to whomp up: just be sure it also sheds water away from the sheathing.
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Oct 11, 2022 05:05
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I actually need a small low power vacuum as my Dyson ball one is too powerful for our ruggable at the front entrance, haha.
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Oct 11, 2022 15:30
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Update on our foundation thing if anybody cares, we got somebody else in and their bid came in just under $12k, much better than $135k. Also I'm a big goof and started a porch remodel right before winter. Finished demo, got paint on the deck and now it's too cold to tile where I tore off some vinyl siding. So we have a nice new deck surface free of stupid carpet that is surrounded by a nightmare of wonder board and redgard.
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Oct 12, 2022 04:11
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Justa Dandelion posted:Update on our foundation thing if anybody cares, we got somebody else in and their bid came in just under $12k, much better than $135k.  Do get a permit, insurance, and verify their license. What is uh, different about their bids other than a trailing zero? Is an engineer involved?
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Oct 12, 2022 04:55
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I've been doing a bunch of hanging stuff, adding electrical boxes, etc in our new place and have gotten frustrated with my $20 laser level/ stud finder. I want to get something solid and quality. Can be 2 dedicated tools or a single one of it does both well. The laser requires balancing on a push pin in the wall and I'd much rather have one of those that sits on a shelf or tripod. Mostly inside stuff, but I guess if I'm splurging then I should consider a green one? For studs I just hate the inconsistency if my current one. It seems to be a toss up as to whether it is correct, in both directions where there is sometimes a stud when it failed to detect one and sometimes nothing when it said there was a stud. Not looking for a Lamborghini type tool, just good and reliable. Any recommendations? I'm in the ryobi cordless ecosystem, so I can go with that. But it seems like the power draw is so low that I don't have to stock with ryobi if there's better value out there.
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Oct 12, 2022 15:36
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Douche4Sale posted:For studs I just hate the inconsistency if my current one. It seems to be a toss up as to whether it is correct, in both directions where there is sometimes a stud when it failed to detect one and sometimes nothing when it said there was a stud. I got fed up with crappy stud finders and didn’t want to spent a mint so I bought a magnetic one for $10. Worked well enough for my purposes (locating studs to mail baseboards into), doesn’t require batteries and takes up almost no space in my tool bag. Obviously won’t help with locating plumbing or electric though.
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Oct 12, 2022 15:53
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I use a rare earth magnet as a stud finder. Just wipe it along the wall until it sticks, there's your stud.
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Oct 12, 2022 16:51
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How do you make it stick to yourself?
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Oct 12, 2022 17:00
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Hi everyone, I was directed here from the aquarium thread. Maybe you can help. Mid-August I moved into an apt from another state. Since arriving I have found I have had a slow, but angry build of a reaction to what I presume is something in the water. There are two bathrooms. Whenever I bathe or shower in either one I am 'fine' for about 5 minutes before contact on my skin begins to develop swelling and minor hives. I begin to have hay fever symptoms as well, with sneezing and a swelling around my face and throat, albeit minor, even if there's no contact with water. This happens coming out of the shower head or bath spigot in both bathrooms. This happens in hot or cold water. Things seem to happen faster in hot water though. The hay fever symptoms (but not the itchy) happens if I'm standing in the bathroom and wait outside of the water contact. I suspect there is something in the water. I contacted the city who offered a free water test, but because I do not own the building the apt. complex needs to order it. I requested it and was denied, instead being offered to move out. Unfortunately my partner was recently laid off and I am afraid we will have trouble moving out until they can get another job. I would like to test the water (someone I know mentioned it might be chloramine, but goons mentioned that chance is so vanishingly small that it's unlikely) and wanted to know what a comprehensive water test might be online since there are many options. I have seen that there are shower heads with filters and am hopeful if I can figure out what I am reacting to, I can get one of these installed so I can shower in peace until the end of the lease. I have also been advised to go to a doctor but since I have just moved and am a poor I am waiting for approval for state healthcare, which is under review. So going to an allergist is out of the question. Does anyone have any advice, experience in this sort of thing or even guesses as how I should proceed? I feel kinda hosed here. Edit: Additionally, I got an injury and while cleaning the cut on my hand for a long amount of time (~5 min) the reaction started there as well. This may or may not help. Chaosfeather fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Oct 12, 2022 |
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Oct 12, 2022 17:15
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MrAmazing posted:I got fed up with crappy stud finders and didn’t want to spent a mint so I bought a magnetic one for $10. Worked well enough for my purposes (locating studs to mail baseboards into), doesn’t require batteries and takes up almost no space in my tool bag. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I use a rare earth magnet as a stud finder. Just wipe it along the wall until it sticks, there's your stud. Haha, this is why I posted. Magnets! I love it. This will be perfect for 95% of my needs and is a great idea. Thanks both. Chaosfeather posted:Hi everyone, I was directed here from the aquarium thread. Maybe you can help. Through my work I know there are a fair number of labs that offer testing services, but I think the going rate is usually hundreds of dollars. Also the network I know is somewhat region-specific too. I can say that from what I know it sounds like it at least isn't something in the water heater. Sounds most likely like it could be the pipes? I recently got on well water and we have a fair amount of sulfur (and extremely hard water). We put in one of those carbon shower head filters (I got the Sprite brand one from a Lowe's or Home Depot) and it worked wonders for the odor and minerals (soap lathers so much better). So those definitely work for some things, but no idea if they will work for your specific allergen. At least they are only $30 or so to try out.
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Oct 12, 2022 17:52
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