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AlexDeGruven posted:
I think it’s clear if it’s anyone, it’s me, at least in regards to 3-D printing.
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 21:37 |
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 07:08 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks! I’ll get some video of early printing. Does your printer support babystepping, that is, adjusting the z level offset while printing? It looks to me like it's just pooping out filament that isn't anywhere near the bed. I'm betting that after that benchy, you turned off the printer. I suspect it isn't storing the z-level changes you made between restarts. Check what the z-level is and make sure it's what you had before. Is anything wobbly? There shouldn't be any play in the wheels, they should be just loose enough to move smoothly. Make sure the hot end is tightly secured to the print head, make sure the print head isn't wobbling on it's rail.
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 21:56 |
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Unfortunately it doesn’t support baby stepping. I even tried .00 and .10 and got the same results even after leveling before hand. Also I hadn’t turned the unit off, although I’ll freely admit it does have issues with saving defaults. Now wheels I’m not sure about. I did stick a piece of packing material on one end to fix the whole unit from being imbalanced (ie like a non leveled chair).
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 22:13 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Unfortunately it doesn’t support baby stepping. I even tried .00 and .10 and got the same results even after leveling before hand. Also I hadn’t turned the unit off, although I’ll freely admit it does have issues with saving defaults. It may be saving the values on the sdcard not in eeprom. That's how my ender 3 v2 was at least, should try and get another firmware fork on it eventually to resolve that.
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 22:26 |
I would put hairspray on that glass and try again
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 22:49 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Unfortunately it doesn’t support baby stepping. I even tried .00 and .10 and got the same results even after leveling before hand. Also I hadn’t turned the unit off, although I’ll freely admit it does have issues with saving defaults. Have you tried lower than 0? They go negative. My printer is at -.15 or something. If you feel ballsy I did find a custom firmware with some cursory googling. I have no idea if it has babystepping or if it will make your machine explode or whatever. The ideal is to compile your own firmware, but this might be an easier option for the weird printer you bought. https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality/comments/ub68t7/psa_theres_custom_firmware_for_the_cr10_smart/
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 22:54 |
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No I haven’t tried a negative one or if I can but I’ll check it out. I will say benchy did work at .10 fwiw. We don’t have a 3D printer discord do we? I was thinking that’s a way to show what I’m doing so people (very kindly) offering me a lot of feedback, can see exactly what’s going on and I’m doing.
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# ? Oct 9, 2022 22:59 |
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Achievement unlocked: forgot to double check that the flex plate was back on the magnet before starting a resin print
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 00:19 |
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going to reiterate this:Doctor Zero posted:If you take a video of the first minute or two of printing, it would help a LOT. We need to see what your first layers look like, and what your bed looks like. take a close up shot of the nozzle and the trace going down, as close as your phone can focus, as it puts down the first layer. showing us the blobby aftermath doesn't help. need to see what is happening in the moment. also, AlexDeGruven posted:A, there are no mirrors. B, I mean in a general sense. I run mine in the garage, and generally don't look at it at all once it's running. this is super stupid. laser labs are eye-protection-at-all-times zones because in the off chance that something drops into the beam and scatters the light into the room, it's already too late for you to do anything about it. it only takes one quick flash from a specular reflection to cause permanent eye damage. fun reminder for you: your retina has no pain-sensing nerves. people who have been hit in the eye with a powerful infrared (i.e. invisible) laser have reported that experience was a gentle "pop" from an undefinable location inside their face, followed by a dark spot in the middle of their vision. the pop was determined later to be the intraocular fluid flash-boiling. your laser is visible, but you may have the same eye-popping experience to look forward to. put the laser in a box.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 00:36 |
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I normally think that goons are way too paranoid when it comes to safety issues, but running an uncovered laser is just stupid.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 01:16 |
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Opinionated posted:It may be saving the values on the sdcard not in eeprom. That's how my ender 3 v2 was at least, should try and get another firmware fork on it eventually to resolve that. That model saves z-offsets even if the SD card isn't in. Cool Dad posted:Have you tried lower than 0? They go negative. My printer is at -.15 or something. The custom Marlin firmware is full of gremlins and is unwise IMO. It prints, but it's weird. I'm out of town for a couple weeks, but afterwards I might try to build something for the CR-10 Smart (because I have a FLSUN V400 on order and now they are kind-of-disposable printers). tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Oct 10, 2022 |
# ? Oct 10, 2022 01:20 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:No I haven’t tried a negative one or if I can but I’ll check it out. I will say benchy did work at .10 fwiw. Post a photo of the bottom of that benchy please.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 01:30 |
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Post a photo of the bottom of that benchy please.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 02:37 |
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Now post one where the bottom is actually in focus.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 02:51 |
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Kalman posted:Now post one where the bottom is actually in focus. Trust me I’ve been trying. lol This was not easy to get.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 02:54 |
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Nozzle is too close to the bed. Back it off by 0.05 to 0.1 mm and see what you get.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:06 |
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Sagebrush posted:Nozzle is too close to the bed. Back it off by 0.05 to 0.1 mm and see what you get. he can't lol absolute amateur hour printer
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:13 |
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BMan posted:he can't lol What? Sure he can. Wherever the nozzle Z-offset is set, update that value.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:15 |
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Sagebrush posted:What? Sure he can. Wherever the nozzle Z-offset is set, update that value. Yeah, it just goes by .05 intervals
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:26 |
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Let’s see if I can get a nice benchy (or any benchy) to print at .15 mm I’ll also try and get some video of the first part. Anyone know how I can upload video, besides YouTube? I also took out the SD card to see if that effects anything in terms of defaults (granted it will still be a cloud print). I can still move the Z unit, but I’m not sure how much that can be done during a print. I’ve never tried it. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Oct 10, 2022 |
# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:27 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Yeah, it just goes by .05 intervals Again, this is because your firmware is eight months out of date. I pointed you at a video tutorial and linked the firmware to you.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:35 |
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tracecomplete posted:Again, this is because your firmware is eight months out of date. I pointed you at a video tutorial and linked the firmware to you. Right, but I tried looking it up and the current FW is the one I have. At least from when I’ve checked to see if new ones are available But I’ll double check. Edit: Huh weird it’s not the newest one by 1.0.9 Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 10, 2022 |
# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:47 |
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1.0.9 is so old you can't even find people complaining about it online. I linked you 1.0.14 the other day.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:51 |
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tracecomplete posted:1.0.9 is so old you can't even find people complaining about it online. I linked you 1.0.14 the other day. For some reason I thought I had done that, when I first got it working. Also I thought I did the update via the app...but that was something else. My apologies.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 03:57 |
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You updated the firmware on the Creality Wifi Box board inside of the machine, not the LCD or the mainboard. The Wifi Box, by all accounts (I say because I immediately pulled it out of both of mine), sucks poo through a tube. Lighting up your USB port and using Octoprint works great, though.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 04:00 |
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tracecomplete posted:You updated the firmware on the Creality Wifi Box board inside of the machine, not the LCD or the mainboard. Yep, that’s exactly what I did. It’s now showing the .13 version as Creality didn’t have the .14 on the site. Anyway I’m redoing the auto level and I’ll see where it goes. I absolutely want to use Octiprint the moment I get the gremlins out and can do two successful prints in a row without needing to stop. Thanks for helping me, despite me being an idiot.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 04:05 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:
you good homie it's what the thread is for.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 04:22 |
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insta posted:you good homie it's what the thread is for. Thanks and it seems to be printing. I guess I just needed to move the Z axis and not just the offset. Still got clogged, but perhaps I just need to play around with the z axis just a little more.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 04:28 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks for helping me, despite me being an idiot. We were all noobs once. Some printers are easier than others to contend with. Stick at it and the thread will get you dialled in soon enough.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 06:54 |
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Regarding laser safety, there’s maybe the only good YouTube thumbnail about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 16:00 |
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Are you guys that bought Neptune 3s still generally happy with them? Someone I know was asking about a <$400 printer to use in his workshop (he mostly does woodworking), and I was thinking about recommending one.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 16:05 |
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Paradoxish posted:Are you guys that bought Neptune 3s still generally happy with them? Someone I know was asking about a <$400 printer to use in his workshop (he mostly does woodworking), and I was thinking about recommending one. An absolute YES, but also recommend they update the firmware to 1.0.4. I was getting phantom thermal runaways on one of them until I did that. It’s also good because it fixes the issues with level mesh not being saved and they now set the z offset to .10 AFTER leveling. I never have to adjust it anymore.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 17:51 |
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Here4DaGangBang posted:We were all noobs once. Some printers are easier than others to contend with. Stick at it and the thread will get you dialled in soon enough. I really appreciate it, honestly I’m kind of tempted to just throw in the towel and use the return money to just get some terrain. It stinks, but it’s just incredibly frustrating, since the unit, was supposed to bypass a lot of the crap from earlier attempts/models.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 17:53 |
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Paradoxish posted:Are you guys that bought Neptune 3s still generally happy with them? Someone I know was asking about a <$400 printer to use in his workshop (he mostly does woodworking), and I was thinking about recommending one. Speaking of cheap printers... I just caved in and pre-ordered the new Sovol SV06. If you can still snag one right this second, they're $200 for the first 200 units. Then $239, I think? for the next 500, and regular retail of $299 after that. They've taken an awful lot of design cues from the proper Prusa i3 (and by that, I mean copied it) on this one, and I wasn't going to do it because I just got done getting rid of a bunch of printers, but here we are. No idea when they're shipping out but I'll share my experience with it whenever it gets here.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 18:00 |
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Paradoxish posted:Are you guys that bought Neptune 3s still generally happy with them? Someone I know was asking about a <$400 printer to use in his workshop (he mostly does woodworking), and I was thinking about recommending one. I wouldn't put an SLA printer in a wood shop unless it has extremely good dust collection, btw.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 18:11 |
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Awesome, thanks. I wanted to recommend something that would get him going right away, so it sounds like he'll be happy with a Neptune 3.Sagebrush posted:I wouldn't put an SLA printer in a wood shop unless it has extremely good dust collection, btw. Neptune is Elegoo's FDM line.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 18:30 |
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Just checked looks like I am on Jyers 1.3.2 which was released on... May 2021. It has been good but I would imagine things have improved since then. Jyers released a v2 recently These look like top contenders? https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases/tag/v2.0.1
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 19:58 |
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I went from ye olden Jyers to mriscoc on all of my machines and I've been really happy. That said, it's hard to make much of an informed analysis when I went from "everything is working fine" to "everything is working fine." I like the UI, though.
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# ? Oct 10, 2022 20:06 |
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Paradoxish posted:Are you guys that bought Neptune 3s still generally happy with them? Someone I know was asking about a <$400 printer to use in his workshop (he mostly does woodworking), and I was thinking about recommending one. They seem great, but if you can wait a little I have heard spectacular things about the Sovol SV06 at a similar price point.
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# ? Oct 11, 2022 02:35 |
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 07:08 |
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So apparently if you get an open box…just replace the nozzle, don’t even bother cleaning it or anything. Just nuke it from orbit. Seems to be printing fine now. Also if it really was just the nozzle I feel like a complete, but happy, idiot. I’m doing a new benchy and I’m interested in how it will turn out. Also compared to earlier models the switching of a nozzle was pretty painless and not something I’d be bothered by doing frequently. Of course the goal is two good prints in a row still….so fingers crossed. Edit: Now to try for the mythical second successful print. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Oct 11, 2022 |
# ? Oct 11, 2022 02:39 |