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It doesn't matter but it feels like garbage to use imo. Those backing plates 100% exist, they are never on the parts diagram, if you lose them you have no recourse besides getting the nicer aftermarket pads that come with new ones. If #9 is still there see if you can bend it a bit so it does it's job again as it's probably been hammered flat over the decades.
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Oct 1, 2022 01:50
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How does a sliding caliper affect brake feel versus a fixed caliper? It just seems like it would be a little vague or spongey initially. At the rear it's probably fine because feel is poor there anyway, but at the front seems less than ideal. I get that's just what you get on an older bike, but the new Trident 660 a sliding 2 piston caliper at the front which kind of surprised me.
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Oct 1, 2022 03:25
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Toe Rag posted:How does a sliding caliper affect brake feel versus a fixed caliper? It just seems like it would be a little vague or spongey initially. At the rear it's probably fine because feel is poor there anyway, but at the front seems less than ideal. I get that's just what you get on an older bike, but the new Trident 660 a sliding 2 piston caliper at the front which kind of surprised me. Correct. If you compare eg the first gen street triple R to it's regular counterpart, the disc diameter is the same and the stopping power is basically the same, but the 4 piston calipers have a substantially crisper initial bite; I suspect there is a more linear response as you taper off the pressure but I've never been able to do a scientific test of this. Sliding calipers are no less powerful than an opposed piston design with the same diameter pistons x2, provided disc diameter is the same, but they're a lot cheaper to make, so they tend to get used a lot in situations where good enough is good enough and a budget middleweight learner bike like the 660 is one of those situations. The Honda 650's have excellent stopping power via their jumbo 3 piston sliders and massive rotor but it feels like crap. The mt07 has traditional 4 pots and they feel excellent. Different priorities and philosophy.
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Oct 1, 2022 04:33
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what an ordeal So obviously something would go awry, and that would be one of the bolts holding the one rotor stripping beyond all hope. Grabbed an angle grinder with some cut off disks, and in the event that wouldn't work, got an extractor kit as well. Notched the head of the bolt, blasted it with a dab torch to lessen the influence from the threadlocker, and after a couple whacks with a new impact hammer it broke loose. Now I just need the replacement bolts to arrive, and I can finally piece everything back together and be really really annoyed that essentially my brake lines are now all air from not having a sealed solution for the banjo bolts and it's gonna take a while to bleed it out.
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Oct 1, 2022 04:48
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The battery on my MT-07 is finally giving up the ghost after 4 years. Is it worth the premium to upgrade to a Lithium battery like an Antigravity? The re-start tech seems nifty and the lower weight is nice, but if I generally take care of it with a trickle charger when not in use for long periods will the battery life be noticeably longer?
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Oct 2, 2022 11:08
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Slavvy posted:It doesn't matter but it feels like garbage to use imo. Those backing plates 100% exist, they are never on the parts diagram, if you lose them you have no recourse besides getting the nicer aftermarket pads that come with new ones. This anti chatter plates are usually part of the pad, and not the caliper, if I recall? Might be why they don’t show up on the fiche
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Oct 2, 2022 15:30
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:This anti chatter plates are usually part of the pad, and not the caliper, if I recall? It's honestly been so long since I got genuine pads for anything I really couldn't say lol
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Oct 2, 2022 19:12
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I dunno Slavvy. I can't find any reference to these things anywhere. - They don't appear on the parts fiche - From pictures of NOS OEM brake pads, they are not part of the brake pad kit - The factory service manual shows the pads being installed with no additional backing parts - The Hawk GT forum has no mention of anything like this, even in the newbie brake question threads ("don't lose those backing shims" etc) - I have watched five "how to change your motorcycle brake pads" videos. Four of them had no mention of the things and showed pads being removed and installed with no backing shims in place. The fifth finally said "some pads may have shims, some may not, and some aftermarket pads may not even fit into the caliper with the shims installed, so don't feel obligated to use them." I don't think the Hawk GT had them originally, and certainly they don't seem to be a critical part if the specialist forum doesn't mention them. In any case it's up-and-down motion that is the problem, and a backing plate that's the same profile as the pad wouldn't help here. I think I'm going to check out part #9 as you suggested, and if that doesn't help, think about making a little sleeve for the retaining pin or something. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Oct 2, 2022 |
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Oct 2, 2022 19:38
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Do you think the bike did that from the factory? A thing is either worn or missing. If you're certain they aren't meant to have backing plates then either the top clip is missing or worn, or the pin is severely worn, or the pads are the wrong shape.
Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Oct 2, 2022 |
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Oct 2, 2022 19:41
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Hopefully not muddying the waters here because Sagebrush has different brakes, but the 6-pot Tokicos on the ZRX have been doing that since I brought it home, and I haven't found anything to suggest they shouldn't have been. The retainer pins may be a tad worn, but the pin holes in the EBC pads I've been using are oval when new, allowing the pads to rock fore and aft in the caliper. There's nothing missing, either, and I had the backing plates - they're just sloppy brakes designed for pad quick-changes and it's not a huge surprise to me that one of the upgrades on the Rex is a brake swap. These are my pads, in EBC HH (which I use out of habit, not because I'm dialed in to the exact pads I need or anything)  These are Sagebrush's, same manufacturer and type  No backing plate, but crucially, still has pre-ovaled pinholes. The slop is built in, at least at this one retention point. E: just checked my post about this from 2019 and Slavvy confirmed the 6-pot Tokicos on the Rex are just kinda like that. Sagebrush, like I said, you've got different brakes, but it sounds like it may be a similar issue. Double-check your calipers and make sure there's no other retaining surfaces that are worn, I guess? Fitment on my bike is pretty loose. Phy fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Oct 3, 2022 |
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Oct 3, 2022 16:41
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If I want to dry a carbed bike, I can close the petcock and run it until it dies, then just crack the drain on the bowl to get rid of anything remaining, right? At that point stabilizer in the tank and she’s good to go until I open the petcock again, is how I see it. Anything I’m missing?
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Oct 4, 2022 02:57
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Stabilizer in the tank and run for a minute. Maybe slosh it around a bit. Then just close the petcock, drain the bowls into a jar, and pour it back in the tank.
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Oct 4, 2022 03:03
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Drain the bowls into a jar and throw it away cause you don't want the poo poo accumulating at the bottom going back in the tank. Running the bike till it runs out of gas is not a great idea and pretty pointless if you're going to use the drain screws anyway.
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Oct 4, 2022 03:06
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OK I’ll just stabilize, run it, then drain the remainder without letting it die, thanks. Honestly didn’t think letting it starve would be a bad so that’s good to know.
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Oct 4, 2022 03:11
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Slavvy posted:Drain the bowls into a jar and
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Oct 4, 2022 14:31
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3j51UltURw Is this sound just from the brakes being cold or is there a potentially another problem? I noticed it when I pulled off the freeway to grab gas and was just messing around. This video is about 40 minutes later, again just pulling off the freeway, so there's no temperature in the brakes because ambient (maybe 65F?) It seems less squeaky by the last one. The bike (CB300R) came with organic pads, but I put in sintered when I needed to replace. The rotor is the stock rotor still.
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Oct 7, 2022 20:12
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Almost sounds like pad contamination. Noisy sintered pads usually make a high pitched squeal earthen than a groan like that. What kind of pads? Post a pic of your rotor surface? Check the rotor buttons are free too
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Oct 7, 2022 20:22
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   More pics Pads are "EBC Double-H Sintered Sportbike" FA679HH specifically. I don't think I have buttons because it's not a floating rotor. It mounts directly to the wheel. Nothing feels loose or weird.
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Oct 7, 2022 20:53
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I think you do have buttons, the mounting screws just go through them  might be worth taking it off and cleaning them up.Anyway judging by the rotor that is a really aggressive pad and may just be how it's gonna sound at low speed and low temperature.
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Oct 7, 2022 21:27
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Having just popped on new EBC rotors and EBC HH sintered pads myself after the caliper rebuilds, I'm glad to say I do not have any such similar noise. Did you grease up the back of the pads and any other spot where it makes contact with the pistons or spring clips?
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Oct 8, 2022 01:02
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Slavvy posted:I think you do have buttons, the mounting screws just go through them  What are the buttons, then? They allow for small amounts of axial movement so the rotor doesn't split apart or shear the bolts under heavy loads? metallicaeg posted:Having just popped on new EBC rotors and EBC HH sintered pads myself after the caliper rebuilds, I'm glad to say I do not have any such similar noise. No, I just slapped them in there and sent it. They don't normally sound like that, btw. This isn't normal braking. I was just being a yobbo and noticed it, so I redid it as I pulled up to my garage for purposes of asking, since as you can I see I don't really know anything! I've done hard braking before while the brakes have been used normally and they didn't make any weird noises.
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Oct 8, 2022 18:22
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They allow for a bit of lateral movement as well a letting the thing expand with heat without warping it cracking. Looking at the caliper I'd say the pads will be the same part number as you'd find on a much larger more powerful bike with a bigger diameter rotor and this may just be how it goes. I'd clean and free everything up and not worry about it if it continues to work fine. I don't like the greasy pads idea, I think it's pretty fraught with peril and was never there from the factory so in my mind it shouldn't be necessary.
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Oct 8, 2022 18:36
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I failed to tighten the chain adjuster nut that locks the other adjuster nut and the cap in place on the left swingarm on my Ninja 400, and the chain adjuster plate/cap came loose, pivoted, and had an encounter with the sprocket at some point, bending the poo poo out of the bolt thing in the adjuster. Cut my track day short, I noticed it after the second session so I think it happened during that  I tried to get it whacked back in place, but even with the help of the vendor/mechanics there, it's too hosed and they didn't sign off on tracking it any more that day and didn't have any replacements.Two questions; 1: unless I'm missing something, doesn't the axle nut on the rear wheel hold the whole assembly in place and keep the chain from moving? I know you have to crack it loose to do the chain adjustment, what's the danger of riding it around as is? I'm trying to wrap my mechanically inept brain around how it all works together. I can get it mostly locked in place as shown below, I rode it carefully back from the track without issue, but was trying to figure out the worst case scenario. 2: is there an aftermarket replacement for the bent chain adjuster (33040 in the parts diagram) or do I have to get an OEM? Revzilla is out of stock currently, although I do plan to call around locally to shops. I had no luck finding aftermarket versions of that part with my searches, the only thing that popped up is different caps and rear GP style lifters that still need you to have the original part that goes inside the swingarm. I might not be searching for the right thing though (parts diagram calls it out as 33040 ADJUSTER-CHAIN).   Parts diagram from here: https://www.revzilla.com/oem/kawasaki/2020-kawasaki-ninja-400-abs/swingarm?submodel=ex400glf-ninja-400-abs 
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Oct 10, 2022 17:36
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1. Nope, the bolt tension is applied in the wrong direction to resist the engine's torque, if you haven't got a nut on the adjuster rod the engine will just tell the axle to get hosed and drag it as far forward as it can; this is one of those things that I found very hard to trust in bicycles because I was convinced pedal torque would just make the axle move in the dropouts without a tensioner of some sort. It's probably safe to ride as it is if you can get the wheel pointing straight, as it's not very badly bent. I'd say it's safer to leave it bent than to attempt straightening the threaded rod. 2. I've never seen an aftermarket version of the internal part, probably because it's something you can't see and basically never goes wrong or wears out. Dealer only.
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Oct 10, 2022 18:08
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Ah thanks! That makes sense now. Measuring chain slack it does seem slightly tighter from what I remember, but not huge amount or issue causing yet. The adjuster nut and cap were probably loose for at least a couple laps if not more... I found some places online that have the part and will just get it fixed. It was bent worse but it got straightened out a bit during the repair attempts. Doesn't look like any part of the swingarm itself got mangled but I'll know for sure when I take it off for the replacement. I'll add adjuster nuts to the double check list for when I'm snugging everything up on the bike from now on... e: although thinking about it if it got pulled forward any the chain should be looser I just realized, so I don't think anything moved around yet. I'll get it replaced either way! RightClickSaveAs fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Oct 10, 2022 |
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Oct 10, 2022 18:44
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I would imagine that the end plate getting sucked into the sprocket would result in a vigorous jerk toward the rear. I think you should measure from the end of the swingarm to the axle center to make sure you're still adjusted straight if you're going to keep riding in the meantime. You'll be able to compensate for the bending by just giving that side more slack or whatever.
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Oct 10, 2022 20:13
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I cross posted this in the AI Car questions thread, but maybe someone in the CA specific forum might have a good source for fasteners: Can anyone in here point me to a vendor where I can buy some bolts that have been pre-drilled for safety wire? I bought a pair of SV1000 Tokico 4 pot brake calipers for my SV650 that use a spacer bracket to fasten to the forks. I'm not particularly pleased with the hardware that the bracket-maker provided, and my friend tried to drill them for safetywire before selling it to me. So, I want to replace them. I've done a ton of googling, but I can't seem to locate a vendor that will just sell me 8 bolts in total, either in steel or stainless steel, whatever is strong enough for the application. I've found one site that might sell some functional bolts, but they are sold in sets of 20, which would mean I'd have to buy 40 bolts to get what I need. The other vendors I found are selling titanium bolts at $12+ a pop which is silly for my needs. Measuring the existing bolts, I need: 4 - m8x1.25-25mm socket cap bolts 4 - m10x1.5-30mm socket cap bolts The friend that sold me the brakes and brackets suggested just buying new bolts and taking them to a race shop that could drill them for me. I suppose that's an option, but seems more tedious. I think a flange head bolt might also work, but the provided fasteners are socket cap which is why I have been looking for that.
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Oct 10, 2022 23:56
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GB racing has some. I thought I found bunch on another website, but I can’t remember. I’ll look when I get back to a computer.
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Oct 11, 2022 00:43
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Welp, I must has just misremembered what I saw on the GB Racing site as being more than what it was. The M8 bolts are available predrilled from Pro Bolt, but no luck on the M10. They're also $5 a pop. May be worth just ordering some normal bolts and having someone drill the for you, or DIY.
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Oct 11, 2022 02:25
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Hey all I used to ride daily, and browse this forum frequently, but after riding into a downed telephone line and moving into an apartment in 2020 I've let my new 2019 Suzuki dr650 become very used by parking it for two years, literally breaking the carb with a hammer, and setting the air filter on fire for a solid minute while I scrambled for water. But! After almost selling it to a friend I had the sudden realization call that I both still wanted to ride and I still wanted to fix this bike; I told myself when I bought the DR that it'd be the one I never sell and I'd learn it inside and out - it's old enough, popular enough, simple enough that even a bed mechanic like me could really obtain some degree of mastery over the bike. My feelings on the bike have mellowed as I faced the reality that I both don't have any friends to off road with and don't actually like camping, but the fact remains I bought this bike new, paid it off, and absolutely should not just sell it off when I'd really like to ride again. Not only would it be a waste to sell this bike just to buy another, this is still one of the best bikes for me to attempt to actually have some mechanical competency with - a bike I know I can fix myself for the rest of my life / the life of ice bikes. That said, today I finally returned to the bike with a new carb and a new battery. I got them both installed and, after doing my best to replace the gas in the tank, I actually got the bike to start, sort of. It took a long time to start, wouldn't idle, and eventually, after maybe a minute of me holding the throttle partially open, I eventually gave it too much gas and it died. After that, I couldn't start it again and drained the new battery trying. I have somewhere, or will buy, a charger, and I'll go back out next week to continue. So here's what I think I need help with over the next few weekends: 1) despite reordering the same batter from amazon I bought a year ago, the last time I tried to fix the bike, what I got is obviously different and doesn't fit, it's too tall to put the seat on. I'm using it for now just to test but can someone recommend a replacement? 2) the choke doesn't work, the lever doesn't move. That's why I was holding the throttle open by hand. I think is probably because: I dropped some parts both when taking the old carb off and putting the new one on. I'm an idiot, I know. I found an old carpet and rolled the bike onto it (it's outside) so hopefully I won't lose them in the future, but I'm missing a brass tube and I think some sort of jet:  The new carb had a kind of jet or screw in that hole. I guess it fell out?? It's gone, I checked the grass but couldn't find it.  I think this is the choke? I think it goes in the previous hole? I also know there was a kind of brass tube that went on it some how...I lost is yesterday. I have the associated spring. I guess I need to order those parts, is that something I can get online from, like, one of those stores that have clickable exploded diagrams? Sorry, I've sort of let a lot of my bike fixing atrophy in the last seven years, first by owning a very nice CB300f that never needed anything and now by just letting this 1990s tech farm tractor sit for two years. If I've left anything out or should take more pictures I can, but I'd really appreciate some advice as I work to get this bike, and my riding hobby, going again.
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Oct 11, 2022 04:11
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You're looking for a choke plunger or choke needle. It will not be rideable with that hole exposed.
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Oct 11, 2022 04:42
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Step 1 should be getting a pdf of the workshop manual which will have all the general info. Is the battery type not in the regular manual? Looks to be one of these, other brands will be cheaper. https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/ytx9-bs/ Will a battery charger get super wet where the bike is? You want to pull the battery and take it inside if it's going to be standing all winter and cant get a charger on it.
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Oct 11, 2022 06:44
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I did take the battery home with me to the apartment yeah, the bike is 20 minutes away at my parent's place. I have a specifically motorcycle charger unless I've misplaced it in the last couple years. The battery I bought on amazon had been designed for the bike, but slamming "order again" a year later has given me a clearly different battery. I'll check the link and buy another. I'll buy a shop manual asap, I don't know why I didn't do that sooner. I watched a decent you tube video that involved removing the carb but that doesn't cover "oops something immediately fell out of the carb and is now lost forever in the grass".
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Oct 11, 2022 14:13
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I'd just like to comment on how weird it is to see a DR so sparkly clean and not have the owner wading through a decade of accumulated crud
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Oct 11, 2022 14:27
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I'd just like to comment on how weird it is to see a DR so sparkly clean and not have the owner wading through a decade of accumulated crud  I went riding off road like three times on it and cleaned it each time. I eventually gave up on it because I didn't have a friend to ride with and I realized I'd eventually snap a clutch lever (or a leg) in the woods by myself with no cell signal. It's a big regret of mine that I had to basically give up on that.Slavvy posted:You're looking for a choke plunger or choke needle. It will not be rideable with that hole exposed. I did screw the little nylon nut in finger tight while trying to get it running. I figured with the missing parts the choke would be stuck wide open but it would still maybe start and run, if not be, like you say, rideable. Also, would this be why my choke lever is completely frozen? It should just move that cable back and forth right? Is it maybe seized and I'll need to pull and lube it?
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Oct 11, 2022 14:42
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Jack B Nimble posted:I eventually gave up on it because I didn't have a friend to ride with and I realized I'd eventually snap a clutch lever (or a leg) in the woods by myself with no cell signal. It's a big regret of mine that I had to basically give up on that. https://discover.garmin.com/en-US/inreach/personal/
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Oct 11, 2022 15:05
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Slavvy posted:I would imagine that the end plate getting sucked into the sprocket would result in a vigorous jerk toward the rear. I think you should measure from the end of the swingarm to the axle center to make sure you're still adjusted straight if you're going to keep riding in the meantime. You'll be able to compensate for the bending by just giving that side more slack or whatever.  I won't be riding much anyway until the part comes in, but good to know I can just keep an eye on that.
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Oct 11, 2022 15:06
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Jack B Nimble posted:
If you've put the plunger fitting back in it'll run like it's got the choke on full yeah. And yeah it sounds like the cable is seized from lack of use. RightClickSaveAs posted:Thanks, I didn't think of measuring it that way, just did and it's dead even on each side so nothing got out of alignment yet! The chain seemed tight because I measured it on the rear stand, it's back to normal when I take it off, forgot about that whole lack of rear shock compression thing You should set your chain tension with the bike upright anyway so it's probably too tight if it only loosens up when you take it off the paddock stand.
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Oct 11, 2022 16:35
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Slavvy posted:You should set your chain tension with the bike upright anyway so it's probably too tight if it only loosens up when you take it off the paddock stand.
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Oct 11, 2022 18:00
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:22 |
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It depends on your preload mostly, is that the owners manual or the service manual? I'd be surprised if the FSM tells you to do it on the side stand but I've seen weirder poo poo. Worth remembering that FSM's are written by engineers while owner's manuals are written by lawyers.
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Oct 11, 2022 18:24
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