|
rantmo posted:I bought some 3D printed bases for some Rubric Marines and I'm having the hardest time getting my test model to stay glued to the base. It had been suggested to me that the bases should be washed before I try to glue figures to them but that runs contrary to what I've heard about 3D printed stuff. Not that I object to giving them a quick wash but not having to do so would be even easier but also I've never had this sort of trouble before. Is there a trick to this or should I just expend the slight effort to wash the drat things? That's weird, I usually have the opposite problem, where stuff I superglue to a 3d printed resin base is practically welded to it.
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2022 23:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 12:20 |
|
|
rantmo posted:I bought some 3D printed bases for some Rubric Marines and I'm having the hardest time getting my test model to stay glued to the base. It had been suggested to me that the bases should be washed before I try to glue figures to them but that runs contrary to what I've heard about 3D printed stuff. Not that I object to giving them a quick wash but not having to do so would be even easier but also I've never had this sort of trouble before. Is there a trick to this or should I just expend the slight effort to wash the drat things? What kind of glue are you using?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2022 23:58
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:What kind of glue are you using? Loctite Gel, which is what I use for pretty much everything. It's a slightly older bottle but has been gluing plastic onto plastic without any problem. It does look like I've managed to get the thing glued onto the base finally, looking at it, I'm wondering if the problem is that the rough texture of the base wasn't giving me solid enough contact. Maybe a little bit of Vallejo earth texture would do the trick to bridge the gap for the rest of them.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 00:31
|
|
|
rantmo posted:Loctite Gel, which is what I use for pretty much everything. It's a slightly older bottle but has been gluing plastic onto plastic without any problem. It does look like I've managed to get the thing glued onto the base finally, looking at it, I'm wondering if the problem is that the rough texture of the base wasn't giving me solid enough contact. Maybe a little bit of Vallejo earth texture would do the trick to bridge the gap for the rest of them. Yeah I've noticed some issues with loctite gel with exactly this scenario. Fiddly bits like hands-forearm connections or small feet to bases will have issues with that stuff. If you can afford it and put together enough models to personally justify it, I suggest keeping a few different types of glues around. There's some connections that gel glue works incredibly with that thick super glue or plastic cement just wont work with. Also vice versa. It's just a matter of keeping a variety of tools around so you can have the right one for the job.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 01:00
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Yeah I've noticed some issues with loctite gel with exactly this scenario. Fiddly bits like hands-forearm connections or small feet to bases will have issues with that stuff. If you can afford it and put together enough models to personally justify it, I suggest keeping a few different types of glues around. There's some connections that gel glue works incredibly with that thick super glue or plastic cement just wont work with. Also vice versa. It's just a matter of keeping a variety of tools around so you can have the right one for the job. What other kind of glue would you recommend?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 01:03
|
|
|
rantmo posted:What other kind of glue would you recommend? Gorilla brand super glue, the kind with the blue cap for CA glue. If the nozzle is too big for you then get some toothpicks and use them to apply the glue. And tamiya extra thin or mr. hobby plastic cement. This stuff is basically acetone and will melt the two halves of a joint together. It's useful for having an absolutely perfect connection that won't easily break, but it takes a bit to cure and is really annoying for fiddly bits like a space marine holding a bolter with two hands.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 01:11
|
|
|
Gambrinus posted:Are Citadel contrast paints the only ones worth using or are there any other brands that do similar? The Scale75 Instants have worked well for me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 04:15
|
|
|
Gambrinus posted:Are Citadel contrast paints the only ones worth using or are there any other brands that do similar?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 08:08
|
|
|
Hey anyone got advice on painting horses (28mm metal), ideally without contrast paints?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 14:15
|
|
|
Lumpy posted:I have varnished speed paints with an airbrush 24 hours after application with no issue. Obviously waiting a whole kills that "speed" thing, but that's my experience. As I have mentioned previously, I have used oil paints / white spirits on speed paints an hour after application with no ill effect. Bit late on my reply, but yeah, it seems to be the water in other acrylic paints (including acrylic varnishes) that reactivates the Speedpaints. Using oil or enamel washes (or using a clearcoat that isn't acrylic-based) over Speedpaints shouldn't cause them to reactivate. I painted up a "space dwarf" I got from Tablehammer a couple of weeks back with Speedpaints, so I'll mess with it tonight and see if they still reactivate when given an acrylic varnish.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 15:07
|
|
|
As someone who is still planning to start painting is this a good order on how to paint my minatires when I finally get the money behind me? Zenithal prime, base coat with thined paints to let the zenithal through, details and highlights, gloss varnish, oil wash and clean and finally Matt varnish. Is that a good way to start off? I've been researching quite a bit and I want to start right away with oil washes compared to the acrylic ones due to their versatile nature and lack of staining.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 19:19
|
|
|
Calhanol posted:As someone who is still planning to start painting is this a good order on how to paint my minatires when I finally get the money behind me? Sure, seems fine. You dont strictly need a gloss varnish before the oil wash, but it does help it run into recesses better. There isnt a one true order of operations (okay, you need to undercoat before you basecoat, and basecoat before wash and highlights, but other than that. Some things suit washes last, some things need the highlights refreshed after washes) but that one seems as good as any other and you can change it up if you think a figure needs it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 19:27
|
|
|
If you don't varnish before an oil wash then the oil paints can stain the paint underneath, which can be good or bad depending on what you're aiming for but even with a gloss varnish it'll still somewhat filter your model with whatever colour wash you're using. So I recommend doing details and highlights after an oil wash because the wash will decrease their vibrancy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 19:34
|
|
|
What's the best way to remove mould lines (plastic and lead)? So far I've been hacking away with a Stanley knife with limited success and a vague feeling of unease that I may take my own fingers off, or even worse, hack a plastic rat head off. I've been using it to hack up old carpet, so I suspect it may not be as sharp as it should be. GW sell mould remover tools. Are these worth it or an absolute overpriced gimmick?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 23:08
|
|
|
Gambrinus posted:What's the best way to remove mould lines (plastic and lead)? So far I've been hacking away with a Stanley knife with limited success and a vague feeling of unease that I may take my own fingers off, or even worse, hack a plastic rat head off. Forget the GW mould remover for plastics. Just get a precision knife/hobby knife from like literally any craft supply or stationery store on the cheap. Use the back of the blade if it's sharp or just the blade itself if it's dull.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 23:15
|
|
|
Gambrinus posted:What's the best way to remove mould lines (plastic and lead)? So far I've been hacking away with a Stanley knife with limited success and a vague feeling of unease that I may take my own fingers off, or even worse, hack a plastic rat head off. Overpriced gimmick. Get yourself a cheap hobby knife, or at the very least put a new blade on your stanley knife. You're more likely to cut yourself with a dull blade. I use the back (non sharp side) for some lines, the sharp edge (but repeatedly dragged rather than pushed) for bigger lines, and actually cutting with it for big bastards. And/or one of those disposable nail file pad things which are a pack of about 6 for £1 and last ages. I've got a cheap pack of jewellers files lying round somewhere but they're really rarely used.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 23:17
|
|
|
I loving love that mouldline remover fwiw
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 23:28
|
|
|
Agreed, it's a gimmick that's also.. really actually super useful? I was extremely surprised.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2022 23:37
|
|
|
I don't have a GW moldline remover but I have a similarly designed tool (I think it was made by Micromark? Not sure) and it is nice for when I want to clean mold lines without having to worry about accidentally jabbing myself in the hand or something. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 00:11
|
|
|
If you're worried about jabbing or cutting yourself fiddling with a hobby knife the mould line remover is fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 00:12
|
|
|
You need to shed a little blood from time to time in this hobby, to appease the gods of modeling. A little blood keeps your CA strong, your brush tips shaped properly, and your paints thin.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 00:22
|
|
|
I tried the free GW moldline remover that came in the magazine and I didn't like it. I got the one from monument hobbies that I use from time to time. I sometimes use the back of the hobby knife, but often times for the ones like, between very close spikes or where I'm going to end up taking off other parts trying to get at it, I just leave it there and don't bother. More often than not I get those soft sanding sticks off amazon and just use those to scuff off the mold lines. Too much work otherwise. edit: oh is citadel making a new mold remover? I don't see it on the website anymore there's this I found which might actually be useful: https://www.amazon.com/Scriber-Gundam-Carved-Scribe-Cutting/dp/B084DQQSJ4/ GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Oct 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 01:32
|
|
|
I will also buy the new one because it seems more consistent in not jacking up the plastics without me having to be super cautious about it, also. And it's good for metals that I sometimes still put together.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 01:40
|
|
|
Painted up a squat squad (squadt?). I've seen this scheme now after the fact, but when I first tried it out I was just experimenting with the new contrasts:   I'm particularly proud of the dude with the power pick (because I cobbled it together from bits). I also did this lady from Cursed City after a million years of just letting it sit there: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 02:40
|
|
|
So on the topic of Army Painter Speedpaints: I have a "Federation of Tyr" (aka "space dwarf") mini from Tablehammer that I painted up using AP Speedpaints: specifically Fire Giant Orange and Grim Black. I painted it up at least a week ago, possibly closer to two weeks. It's been sitting on my desk, untouched and unvarnished. After the discussion about AP Speedpaints reactivating, I decided to test it by simply wetting a brush with water and gently going over the painted surfaces (orange for the armor, black for the cloth part of the uniform). In both cases the Speedpaints reactivated almost instantly. The orange started staining the wet brush after a couple of brushstrokes; the black literally as soon as the wet brush touched it. I don't know if I just got a bad batch of Speedpaints or if I'm doing something else wrong with them (I use a vortex mixer to mix my paints, including Speedpaints, so shaking shouldn't be an issue), but at this point I don't think I'll be buying any more. I'll stick to Contrast or else grab one of the other Contrast-type paints from another manufacturer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 03:41
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:So on the topic of Army Painter Speedpaints: I have a "Federation of Tyr" (aka "space dwarf") mini from Tablehammer that I painted up using AP Speedpaints: specifically Fire Giant Orange and Grim Black. I painted it up at least a week ago, possibly closer to two weeks. It's been sitting on my desk, untouched and unvarnished. After the discussion about AP Speedpaints reactivating, I decided to test it by simply wetting a brush with water and gently going over the painted surfaces (orange for the armor, black for the cloth part of the uniform). nope, a lot of people (including me) are having the same problem.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 03:58
|
|
|
The trick to removing mould lines with a Stanley knife is to scrape. Don't cut into the material, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface and just drag it along. If the blade is sharp it'll scrape off the tiniest shaving.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 05:06
|
|
|
Does anyone have any tips for working with texture rollers for air clay? It's not sticky enough to stick to bases during rolling and the clay itself keeps clogging the rollers details. In the end I threw some superglue on the bottom of a base, flattened out the clay as much as I could over the affected area, wiped up the remaining glue so as not to ruin the roller, and then gently did a light press. The results suck rear end but at least it stayed on the round.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 05:21
|
|
|
Slather the roller in oil or petroleum jelly, and/or roll out a sheet of clay and texture it as a whole sheet then use ring cutters of the right diameter to get base sized circles.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 06:38
|
|
|
Muir posted:Slather the roller in oil or petroleum jelly, and/or roll out a sheet of clay and texture it as a whole sheet then use ring cutters of the right diameter to get base sized circles. No dice on the petroleum front, the clay hates the plastic base as well it seems. I wonder if I need to just add a layer of pva/sand and let it dry or something just so it's got something to grab onto. The great thing about this air dry clay at least is I can just hose off the roller crevices with a hose nozzle on the jet setting. I'm not making full bases out of the clay for this project unfortunately, but I'm excited to see if the air dry clay is really superior to the oven clay when it comes to base rims drying wonky. I've kept oven dry clay perfectly flat and weighted and you always get issues with them. I'm planning on redoing 40ish bases for my dwarves, and the goal is to just add a bit of clay directly to a few parts of the base and then texture it with a Dwarven ruins roller, and then build around that texture with sand, cork, etc. for that "rediscovered hold" sort of vibe.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 07:25
|
|
|
I had more success making a thin sheet of textured clay and then cutting circles of it for bases (use a really sharp knife tip to not warp the pattern) , or waiting for it to dry, breaking it and sticking down pieces for ruined slabs. Trying to imprint it on clay already stuck to the base was frustrating as you found. Putting talc on the roller helped it not stick there, but it wouldnt stick to the base well either. I used milliput which is probably stickier than air clay. I imagine maybe rough sanding or scratching the top of the base with a knife might help it stick more also, rather than just trying it on shiny finished plastic. For non sticking over a large area I also tried wrapping the roller in cling film which surprisingly worked pretty good for a simple brick pattern, but probably wouldnt be great for more complex ones. Tiocfaidh Yar Ma fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Oct 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 08:37
|
|
|
One way that I've had success is to smoosh the clay into the base by facing the clay on a flat surface with water, then rubbing it vigorously in a circular motion. Then turning it around, rolling, and cutting off any excess with a sharp knife. But I think for your application, just rolling a thin sheet and breaking it up will probably work better.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 10:17
|
|
|
Siivola posted:The trick to removing mould lines with a Stanley knife is to scrape. Don't cut into the material, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface and just drag it along. If the blade is sharp it'll scrape off the tiniest shaving. This is true with any super sharp knife and it works better if you have the blade slightly angled away from the direction youre dragging the blade.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 14:38
|
|
|
How the knife is angled will determine how much gets scraped away. How much pressure you put down will also determine how much you scrape away. If you're super delicate and neat there's nothing you can't do with an xacto size11 style hobby knife.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 14:48
|
|
|
Yea, this is what i use almost exclusively to trim down mold lines.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 14:52
|
|
|
My wife is wanting to get into airbrushing minis, and I can't find any place that carries airbrush painting stations locally. All the ones on Amazon look... well, okay, I'm pretty sure they're all the same one from China with different "brand" names associated with them. Is there any recommendations for what to get, or should I be fine with picking up any of them from Amazon and just getting a longer thing of ductwork to run to the window? I've already ordered her a half-face mask and some filters. (An artist store here carries Iwata brain airbrushes and compressors.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 17:02
|
|
|
SiKboy posted:Sure, seems fine. You dont strictly need a gloss varnish before the oil wash, but it does help it run into recesses better. There isnt a one true order of operations (okay, you need to undercoat before you basecoat, and basecoat before wash and highlights, but other than that. Some things suit washes last, some things need the highlights refreshed after washes) but that one seems as good as any other and you can change it up if you think a figure needs it. Eej posted:If you don't varnish before an oil wash then the oil paints can stain the paint underneath, which can be good or bad depending on what you're aiming for but even with a gloss varnish it'll still somewhat filter your model with whatever colour wash you're using. So I recommend doing details and highlights after an oil wash because the wash will decrease their vibrancy. Thanks for the advice I will keep it in mind when I start. I wanted to try gloss varnish because with my star wars imperial assault minis I don't want to go too far into the grungy look and rettain the vibrancy somewhat. Since glass varnish makes the oil wash more easily come off. Also even if they stain it won't be as bad as an acrylic wash I assum. Are normal paints good with zenithal though? I know speed/contrast paints are transparent but I want to start with basic paints first to get a grip with painting and not break my budget either. So thinning them sounds best
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 17:07
|
|
|
Randalor posted:My wife is wanting to get into airbrushing minis, and I can't find any place that carries airbrush painting stations locally. All the ones on Amazon look... well, okay, I'm pretty sure they're all the same one from China with different "brand" names associated with them. Is there any recommendations for what to get, or should I be fine with picking up any of them from Amazon and just getting a longer thing of ductwork to run to the window? I've already ordered her a half-face mask and some filters. (An artist store here carries Iwata brain airbrushes and compressors.) If you are spraying acrylics, you don't need to vent it anywhere, the only need is "get particles out of the air" which the HEPA filter it pulls the air through does. If you are going to do enamels / oils, then you absolutely do need to vent it outside and wear a respirator and probably other things, as that stuff will kill you.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 17:40
|
|
|
Lumpy posted:If you are spraying acrylics, you don't need to vent it anywhere, the only need is "get particles out of the air" which the HEPA filter it pulls the air through does. If you are going to do enamels / oils, then you absolutely do need to vent it outside and wear a respirator and probably other things, as that stuff will kill you. So any of the portable spray booths from Amazon should be fine then? I want to get her something that can collapse down for storage when she's not using it, and I don't trust my (lack of) handyman skills to make a cheap one that'll last.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 17:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 12:20 |
|
|
I've been using the same generic Amazon spraybooth for like 6 years now 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 18:04
|
|
