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Can anyone find the choke cable on this page: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2019/dr650se-2019 I've found the plunger assembly I needed, and also a new fuel hose because mine looked like poo poo, and also the associated o ring and gasket for the fuel cock because why not, but I'm not at the free shipping target yet so I was going to add a new choke cable. Or, is there anything else I might as well order from here on a bike that's sat two years? I've already ordered oil and filters. Edit: Oh I badly need a new chain, let me see if that's on here.
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Oct 11, 2022 19:03
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| # ? May 16, 2024 06:42 |
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#14
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Oct 11, 2022 19:07
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Thank you, I hadn't tried "handlebar" yet. Oh, I know, I'll proactively buy some extra screws for the float bowl because they're less than five bucks and like to strip out.
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Oct 11, 2022 19:11
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Slavvy posted:It depends on your preload mostly, is that the owners manual or the service manual? I'd be surprised if the FSM tells you to do it on the side stand but I've seen weirder poo poo. FSM:  owner's manual: 
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Oct 11, 2022 21:41
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Baffling. It means they expect their dealer techs to do everything on the bench with the bike upright, then crawl around on the ground setting the chain tension with it on the side stand like grubby end users.
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Oct 11, 2022 23:05
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Slavvy posted:Baffling. It means they expect their dealer techs to do everything on the bench with the bike upright, then crawl around on the ground setting the chain tension with it on the side stand like grubby end users. I’m assuming in reality a tech that can strip and rebuild an engine will just eyeball and tension the chain while on the lift…
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Oct 12, 2022 00:01
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epswing posted:I’m assuming in reality a tech that can strip and rebuild an engine will just eyeball and tension the chain while on the lift… I'm assuming the dealer tech will put it on the side stand, kick the chain with his toe, and say ehh close enough.
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Oct 12, 2022 00:16
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The biggest question I have is how do you rotate the rear tire around to find where the chain is tightest while the bike is on the side stand? Walk the bike around the shop?
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Oct 12, 2022 00:19
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epswing posted:I’m assuming in reality a tech that can strip and rebuild an engine will just eyeball and tension the chain while on the lift… Yes Finger Prince posted:I'm assuming the dealer tech will put it on the side stand, kick the chain with his toe, and say ehh close enough. Yes Finger Prince posted:The biggest question I have is how do you rotate the rear tire around to find where the chain is tightest while the bike is on the side stand? Walk the bike around the shop? 
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Oct 12, 2022 01:19
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So, uh Whats the hand signal for "you're riding with your sidestand out"?
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Oct 12, 2022 12:13
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Xakura posted:So, uh https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=92d1xtjXf8E
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Oct 12, 2022 12:46
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Trying to reproduce an issue I want to get my bike really hot, but safely- so I'd like to know the difference in sound between mashing it and murdering it on a 2018 Suzuki VanVan 200. I've got an inductive tach I can tape on for a while, but I can't find a published redline for the bike. Anyone got an educated guess or rule of thumb for 200cc air cooled bikes like the RV200?
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Oct 15, 2022 05:30
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It will roll over and run out of power before anything happens, it doesn't need a rev limiter because it runs out of cam and just stops going any faster until you upshift. If you want to get the bike hot you can just let it stand idling can't you?
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Oct 15, 2022 05:55
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Maybe? Can that get it hotter than moving around under load, like WOT for a few miles and generally shifting late over a half hour ride?
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Oct 15, 2022 06:18
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I mean if you want to get it super hot I would take it for a normal ride then come to a stop and just leave it idling. If you're moving fast it will have lots of airflow and not get that hot compared to no airflow like you'd get in start stop traffic. Why are you doing this? Suspected bad CKP?
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Oct 15, 2022 06:24
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To be honest I have no idea where to take this troubleshooting, bad ckp was a theory you posited previously but I can't even tell you whether the RV200 has one yet. I do know this thing has made daily commuter rides since last winter without issue, but on some of the longer and more spirited rides this summer I had 4 sudden stalls at speed, so I want to make it recur and hope to find a pattern. I had a theory that it was a bad tank of gas since 3/4 of the stalls were within the same batch, but then I had a stall on the next batch from another gas station after a healthy dose of seafoam in the tank. I also wonder if 92 octane in California, which the OM calls for, because it is a much lesser-used octane, might be more prone to getting lovely/old gas. I'm just shaking chickens at it because the problem disappears as quick as it pops up. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Oct 15, 2022 |
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Oct 15, 2022 06:32
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Ok it will definitely have a ckp, unless it's got contact point ignition it has to have some means of knowing what the crank position is. If it's something that never came back I would have to think it's environmental more than an actual problem, bad gas sounds plausible. Is it still doing it or you just tilting at windmills for the hell of it? Does it have an idle control valve or has it just got a mechanically set idle with a screw?
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Oct 15, 2022 06:36
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Well the last at-speed stall was only maybe 50 miles ago so I don't feel like I'm out of the woods. It ran like 430mi-1730mi without issue, then 4 sudden stalls while in motion during the last 300 miles. So I guess it could be environmental, summer gas quirks with a fuel injected bike with California emissions fuckery, maybe something that has just cropped up, though there were no material changes that should've caused mechanical issues. The first stall was not long before I dropped it on the trail, which is lucky or I'd be focused on the idea that the impact led to this. Idle's set with a screw, and I've seen recommendation to turn that up slightly as it has a tendency (confirmed) to drop out and die at idle sometimes. That's only happened a few times here and there, so I've ignored it and assume it can only address issues at idle.
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Oct 15, 2022 07:01
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Wait so it stalled while you were moving and using the throttle? Or did it just die at idle it's not clear
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Oct 15, 2022 07:36
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For what it's worth, dying at the idle throttle position, even when having a speed greater than 0, is definitely possible, especially for bikes leaned-out to hell from the factory to pass emissions. Almost forgot to mention, this is especially true if you're just coming off of a constant higher engine speed, say, from traveling on the highway.
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Oct 15, 2022 13:24
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The stalls I'm worried about happen out of the blue while under throttle, though it took 3 failures for me to be sure of that. Within the last 2 months & 300 miles: #1- Going 20mph in ~2nd gear, varying speeds climbing a twisty hill toward a trail, under load at the moment I'm pretty sure. #2- Home stretch of that same ride in 1st gear, possible that it had dropped to idle. Hot desert day. #3- Climbing a hill at 50mph in 5th gear, steady throttle, was just starting to think about downshifting but it wasn't quite struggling. Got there via a spirited ride (I was late), cool damp morning. #4- Going 30mph on level ground, on a hot summer day, after couple miles WOT on the highway and some unnecessarily high RPMs for a few blocks. When it stalls it's just a sudden kunk as the engine cuts out and engine braking begins. No apparent reignition during the engine braking, it's not sputtering it's just dead with the FI light flashing while I pull the clutch in and head for the shoulder. It started right back up right away the first two times, required a few minutes pause before it would start on the third. Runs without issues outside the 4 stunning failures*. It's been suggested that I try an inline spark tester, which seemed futile since I can't get it to stay broken long enough to attach something, but if I can get it hotter just idling after a ride then maybe I can make that work. I guess I'll need to turn the idle screw up anyway for that test. * The other oddity, also recent, was when the idle speed became bizarrely high mid-ride. loving around with throttle did nothing, throttle cable not caught or pinched. Turned the bike off and on again, right back to normal. Maybe I should start a thread for my haunted bike.
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Oct 15, 2022 16:54
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Remy Marathe posted:the FI light flashing
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Oct 15, 2022 17:16
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In theory yes, is part of what I'm hoping to catch with an intentional reproduction, but I haven't been able to so far. Failures 1,2 & 4 seemed to be a steady flashing on and off of the FI light, and ceased before I brought the bike to a stop. Failure 3, the time it wouldn't start right away (turned over but no ignition), I had pulled over, turned it off and back on again, and it threw a complicated signal that I'm pretty sure was a code. I didn't catch it though and when I retried a few minutes later it started right up. Supposedly you can use a wire to short two pins on the 6-pin Suzuki diagnostic port to get it to display these coded flashes, but that hasn't worked so far, it looks like it has no storage and needs to be actively experiencing the fault to do that. I also bought a cheap 6-pin to OBD2 adapter like this, but I'm not sure that's expected to work and my passively powered OBD2 reader remains dead on it: 
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Oct 15, 2022 17:42
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Gas tank breather hole plugged?
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Oct 15, 2022 18:28
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Could vacuum buildup in the tank cause such sharp & discrete failures on a FI bike, without the bike also running like poo poo sometimes? It's not something I had considered, but there's at least a loose correlation between ride duration and its appearance (though I've also had a few long rides recently without it cropping up). My "breather hole" is a byzantine California style system designed to recapture evaporative emissions. People like to delete them, but I'm not sure if that might gently caress with the fueling as programmed. I'll definitely examine it for blockages, maybe I pinched something back when I took off the tank.
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Oct 15, 2022 19:19
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1. Flashing efi light just means it's experiencing a fault, it won't tell you the code in realtime. If you cycle the key and it still flashes it's probably displaying a code 2. It has no storage that's correct, your obd2 reader will work if you can power it independently by running extra wires to the connector or whatever but again you'll need it to be faulting at that moment 3. Things I think it could be in no particular order: CKP faulty, fuel pump relay faulty, kill switch/stand interlock circuit (disable all this poo poo if you haven't already), some California emissions madness I'm totally unfamiliar with, ignition coil faulty, ECU or it's power circuit faulty 4. The super high idle thing sounds really bizarre, if you're absolutely certain the throttle is mechanically sound it points to some emissions bs creating a huge vacuum leak which was bypassing the throttle 5. I think your best bet for reproducing the problem is to have the bike sitting still and just keep the revs up moderately around 3500-4000 for a while, if it's going to do it it'll do it then. Ideally you would want some means of monitoring engine temperature while doing this so poo poo doesn't get out of hand
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Oct 15, 2022 19:52
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what does "CKP" stand for
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Oct 15, 2022 20:05
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CranK Position sensor Why it’s not just CPS is beyond me
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Oct 15, 2022 20:08
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Cause a cps is a cam position sensor  *checks notes* wait that's a CMP what the fuuuck
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Oct 15, 2022 20:19
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CranK Position CaM Position Seems entirely consistent 
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Oct 15, 2022 22:22
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Bike adventures after not touching the FZ1 for over a season and only putting 30 miles on the DRZ this year: FZ1: Cranked on the third try this afternoon after sitting since July '21. I'm sure the gas is rotten but i only had like 1/8 tank in there (I KNOW I KNOW). Put a gallon and a splash or two of drygas and idled it a bit. Was already revving and idling better after a few minutes. Praying i don't have to go clean jets or anything. We will see. Changed the oil, nothing special there. Should I do a coolant flush and fill? grease anything? All the guides i'm seeing are pretty middlin' and "eh, take it for a test run, see if anything's weird" but i'd rather do what i need up front. Not really on a budget but also don't like lighting money on fire for no reason. It needs tires. Does anybody have takes on the Dunlop Mutant sets? They seem to have relatively high marks for lovely weather, occasional light snow, and crappy / light dirt roads while still being W rated and giving good miles. I ride like a dad so i do not care about track performance or whatever. One more: How much should I be spending on a chain and sprocket (assume I should do both) set? Are these $52 ebay o-ring sets fine or should i run? DRZ: Chugging fine. Needs an oil change and a rear brake reservoir which seems a little hard to find. Are the aftermarket ANODIZZZZZZZED ones okay? Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Oct 16, 2022 |
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Oct 16, 2022 01:20
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I wouldn't worry about coolant, I'd do the brake fluid Those tires look fine to me I would not get an ebay chain unless it says did on it Anodized aftermarket poo poo is super hit and miss, ymmv
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Oct 16, 2022 02:34
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Dunlop mutants are what I plan to run next on my 701 SM. They're pretty highly rated/reviewed.
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Oct 16, 2022 04:23
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i have been talked out of trash chain/sprocket sets and will be paying out my rear end for an rk or did chain and some decent sprockets. it doesnt seem wise or life-extending to buy one of these $50 sets. thanks!
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Oct 16, 2022 04:41
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Yeah Chinese eBay final drive stuff will poo poo the bed really fast. Doubly so if you’re putting 1000cc bike torque through it.
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Oct 16, 2022 05:18
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What’s the best tool for getting a mangled jet out of a carb? It’s clean enough that I can blow compressed air through it so I’m leaning towards leaving it alone and letting this being a problem for future me.
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Oct 17, 2022 14:19
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If its not clogged and doesnt HAVE to come out then leave it. If it has to come out, the best bet is probably a reverse drill bit, because it looks like there is still some cupped area there for it to bite on
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Oct 17, 2022 16:12
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Check to make sure new/replacement carbs are even available before hitting the drill bits.
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Oct 17, 2022 18:43
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Why would you ever try to take one of the bellmouth air jets out anyway? They don't get fuel so they basically never clog
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Oct 17, 2022 19:15
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This one visibly had crud in it before I sprayed it with cleaner and hit it with compressed air. These carbs were gross:  Slide Hammer posted:Check to make sure new/replacement carbs are even available before hitting the drill bits. Mikuni BDST38s. You can’t get them new that I’ve found but they’re not too hard to find used. There are also flat slide alternatives for $$$
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Oct 17, 2022 20:32
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