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There’s a few decal producers that make tobacco advertising liveries and to get around bans on tobacco advertising they’ll split the decal in half to get around this limitation. Seems to depend on where they’re made though
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Oct 10, 2022 23:18
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grassy gnoll posted:No, there's this halfway thing some of the military decal people do where they'll take a swastika and break it apart at the "elbow" of each arm, and to complete it you have to apply the cross bit in the center yourself. Number 22 and 23 in this sheet. It's ostensibly to comply with anti-swastika laws, but it's very much a legalistic I'm-not-touching-you sort of approach. 
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Oct 11, 2022 00:15
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Arquinsiel posted:Just rotate 24 a few degrees instead maybe? The corner with the '24' decals is designed to be snipped off in the factory/by the distributor if that kit is going to be sold in a country where they'd be illegal (hence the line demarcating them).
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Oct 11, 2022 00:31
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Why not just take the Morden approach?  
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Oct 11, 2022 06:48
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tidal wave emulator posted:The corner with the '24' decals is designed to be snipped off in the factory/by the distributor if that kit is going to be sold in a country where they'd be illegal (hence the line demarcating them).
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Oct 11, 2022 13:31
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Any suggestions on fixing a tail sitter? I think I added some weight but I might have put it too far aft. (Please don’t shame the citadel paint, I’m using them as an aircraft stand on this one)
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Oct 11, 2022 16:51
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Drill a small hole in the bottom of the nose, drop some lead shot in, seal with epoxy, sand, repaint. Ooooor, put a small tail stand under it with a piece of clear sprue.
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Oct 11, 2022 17:20
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Build a runway display base and glue it down.
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Oct 11, 2022 17:31
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It’s going on a carrier deck so I might just glue it down, would also hide some gently caress-ups around the gear bays. Chipped the paint good trying to get the starboard gear actuator in.
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Oct 11, 2022 20:16
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Cthulu Carl posted:I refuse to believe this is a legitimate combination of words for a boat and not some perverted - probably illegal - sex move. I vacationed in Maine this summer and spent a few days on Muscongus Bay. Maine has a lot of unusual sounding place names, but Muscongus was the only one that sounds like a weird infection.
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Oct 12, 2022 03:36
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Sash! posted:I vacationed in Maine this summer and spent a few days on Muscongus Bay. Maine has a lot of unusual sounding place names, but Muscongus was the only one that sounds like a weird infection. I think by "unusual sounding" you mean Native American. It's very common for places on the east coast to have either English or Native American names.
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Oct 12, 2022 06:13
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Sash! posted:but Muscongus was the only one that sounds like a weird infection.
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Oct 12, 2022 11:04
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Charliegrs posted:I think by "unusual sounding" you mean Native American. It's very common for places on the east coast to have either English or Native American names. Yes. And Potomac, Accotink, Aquia, and Occoquan don't sound odd to me because I hear them every day
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Oct 12, 2022 16:37
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My stepfather has been building a partwork HMS Victory for the best part of a decade, and I finally caved and bought myself a ship - I decided to stick with something at least (mostly) injection moulded rather than wood, but it's ended up slightly larger than I expected - baby for scale: This is a 1:96 scale Cutty Sark, a famous fast merchant vessel (specifically, a tea clipper). The kit is very old, a design dating from 1959 - but has a decent level of prototypical accuracy. It will be built here:  The build will not be perfectly as written, and there are a couple of modifications I'm planning to the base kit which are quite simple. The bulwark stanchions are moulded as triangular fillets instead of bars, so these need to be clipped out and replaced with styrene rod. There is no clearance at all around the wheel with the locations of the existing wheelhouse and quarterdeck cabin so something needs to shuffle around. There could be the addition of some finer chain here and there. More significantly there are a few aftermarket parts available for the kit - the main one being the replacement of the plastic, three-part deck with a laser cut oak veneer equivalent. The supplied deck has 'positive' timber outlines and so even if I can fix the glaring gaps between the three deck sections and match the grain it's still going to look quite bad. There are also replacement ropes, CNC cut sails, blocks, a small amount of photo-etch, and the ability to rig the ship out perfectly as it would have been, to scale. I'm not sure I want to go that far in the latter, but the (and I google all of these terms constantly so please forgive me) shrouds are injection moulded styrene and look pretty naff - so I think if nothing else I'll end up replacing those. Anyway, on with the build, commenced with purchasing two hardback books about the ship (by C. Longridge) and getting the hull together. The first issue, the bulwark stanchions - are here:  And shown with them cut away and sanded below. You can see the fairly awful decking laid in place:  Hopefully this is an appropriate place to post my progress, but happy to take elsewhere if it's making GBS threads up the thread.
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Oct 14, 2022 02:06
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Southern Heel posted:Hopefully this is an appropriate place to post my progress, but happy to take elsewhere if it's making GBS threads up the thread. Awesome! If you do decide you want to do the full rigging in an authentic way, let me know and I'll point you towards a book for the "Young America", an extreme clipper. The book is uh.. not cheap, but it includes full rigging plans and instructions for doing it. There would probably be slight variations (because each ship was always uniquely rigged per the captains desires back then) but it would be an extremely authentic rig.
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Oct 14, 2022 02:25
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You've come to the right neighborhood, motherfucker.
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Oct 14, 2022 02:27
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The actual ship is not that far away from me. I could probably go take pictures of bits if you tell me really specifically what you want a reference for.
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Oct 14, 2022 10:33
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Southern Heel posted:Hopefully this is an appropriate place to post my progress, but happy to take elsewhere if it's making GBS threads up the thread. Anything other than pics of in progress models is making GBS threads up the thread. I don't actually work on models, it's more aspriational 95% of the time. Literally thinking about how much fun it is all day long while working, then too tired to actually do it in the 30 min of free time before sleep.
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Oct 14, 2022 15:20
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Thank you for the kind words, I'll keep it up. Arquinsiel posted:The actual ship is not that far away from me. I could probably go take pictures of bits if you tell me really specifically what you want a reference for. Me neither, I grew up over the hill (hence avatar) 
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Oct 14, 2022 15:30
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Vaporware posted:Anything other than pics of in progress models is making GBS threads up the thread. I don't actually work on models, it's more aspriational 95% of the time. Literally thinking about how much fun it is all day long while working, then too tired to actually do it in the 30 min of free time before sleep.  I'm just trying to balance some non model crafts at the same time on top of it.
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Oct 14, 2022 16:12
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Southern Heel posted:My stepfather has been building a partwork HMS Victory for the best part of a decade, and I finally caved and bought myself a ship - I decided to stick with something at least (mostly) injection moulded rather than wood, but it's ended up slightly larger than I expected - baby for scale: Wow, that is going to be a significant investment of time, resources, and painstaking effort, but I'm sure it will be well worth it. The model looks pretty cool too.
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Oct 14, 2022 18:17
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Vorenus posted:Wow, that is going to be a significant investment of time, resources, and painstaking effort, but I'm sure it will be well worth it. Babies are just scale models of adults. At least you don't need to paint or decal them and assembly is quite easy.
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Oct 14, 2022 19:28
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Lavinia Spenlow posted:At least you don't need to paint or decal them I mean... If you're happy with a straight OOB build, you do you, I guess....
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Oct 14, 2022 19:33
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They apply their own weathering without any understanding of the "less is more" principle.
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Oct 14, 2022 20:12
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Despite enjoying the occasional ferry and reading the wonderful Aubrey-Maturin novel series, I've no meaningful knowledge of rigging and only a very minor familiarity with nautical terms (please excuse me - lots of googling going on). I am aware that the aftermarket supplier 'hismodel' provide both full rigging plans as well as CNC machined deadeyes, photoetched eyelets and hooks, etc. but frankly I don't know if that's just going to end up being too much for me. I think I would be quite happy with the rigging as described by the Revell kit instructions, except for the fact that the shrouds and their associated deadeyes/lanyards are moulded plastic - it just doesn't look right to me. For reference, this is the real rigging, which does NOT include the sails themselves with their attendant lines.  I have a series of this image highlighted in difference colours which show each group of lines, where they terminate and what order to rig them in. There are over 700 deadeyes, hearts and bullseyes in the full rigging! Who knew it was so complicated?! It's not clear to me what I can leave off and what I should include - I understand the shrouds and stays are pretty mandatory, as are the lifts, braces and tacks - but the rest is a descent into madness... Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Oct 14, 2022 |
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Oct 14, 2022 20:33
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Southern Heel posted:I have a series of this image highlighted in difference colours which show each group of lines, where they terminate and what order to rig them in. There are over 700 deadeyes, hearts and bullseyes in the full rigging! Who knew it was so complicated?! It's not clear to me what I can leave off and what I should include - I understand the shrouds and stays are pretty mandatory, as are the lifts, braces and tacks - but the rest is a descent into madness... So rigging is divided into two parts. Running Rigging and Standing Rigging. The most basic 'required' part of rigging is the Standing Rigging. This is the stuff that is always up (unless the ship is in maintenance and fully or partially de-rigged), and usually represented with brown or black rope (since standing rigging in those days was generally tarred in various fashions to protect it and enhance the lifespan, and how that was done is an interesting thing in and over itself - larger ropes weren't simply coated in tar, they were turned into fairly complicated cables). Running rigging is the stuff that moves to handle the sailing part, and generally is light tan rope as it wouldn't be treated as the tar would gum up the pulleys and stuff. If you want the spars up though, you'll need to do at least the lifts which are part of the running rigging, as those hold up the spars. To me it would look strange to do the lifts without the fore and aft braces also for sure, and at that point you may as well add basic sheet and clews! Lol. Feel free to ask questions and I'll dig around in my brain and see if I can remember the answers.
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Oct 15, 2022 02:58
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Be hard to have the spars up without sheets and halyards. Just asking for trouble at that point. Tall ship modelling is a rabbit hole I am nooooot going into.
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Oct 15, 2022 05:33
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FrozenVent posted:Be hard to have the spars up without sheets and halyards. Just asking for trouble at that point. You can have the spars up without the sheets, the sheets only attach to the pulleys on the spars to hold the sails. The spar is raised up by the halyard and then secured and adjusted for tilt with the lifts, and then turned with the fore and aft braces.
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Oct 15, 2022 07:54
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I recently finished a quick mojo-build between big ship kit projects, Hobbyboss's 1/72 "Easy Assembly" Brewster Buffalo. There's only about a dozen parts total, and I thought it'd be nice to have something bright and colourful in amongst all the grey in my display cabinets. I thoroughly recommend this line of kits if you want to just mindlessly glue some bits of plastic together without having to worry about detail, and they are an infinitely more enjoyable build than the ancient tooled airfix starter sets or similar budget kits.    Painted using Mr Colour lacquers and Mr Color Super Metallics.
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Oct 15, 2022 23:41
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Ensign Expendable posted:They apply their own weathering without any understanding of the "less is more" principle. "In 100 kilometers on any terrain, the vehicle will camouflage itself"
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Oct 16, 2022 01:06
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tidal wave emulator posted:I recently finished a quick mojo-build between big ship kit projects, Hobbyboss's 1/72 "Easy Assembly" Brewster Buffalo. There's only about a dozen parts total, and I thought it'd be nice to have something bright and colourful in amongst all the grey in my display cabinets. I thoroughly recommend this line of kits if you want to just mindlessly glue some bits of plastic together without having to worry about detail, and they are an infinitely more enjoyable build than the ancient tooled airfix starter sets or similar budget kits. Pleasingly bright and tidy color separation. I received an early Christmas gift today, since the Takom 1/16 Easy Eights shipped early in the US. It's, uh.   Real big. That's a 1/35th nestled into the lower hull tub. I could close it up inside the hull with room to spare. I may have made a mistake.
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Oct 16, 2022 03:39
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Love it! That is a great color scheme.
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Oct 16, 2022 04:01
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grassy gnoll posted:I may have made a mistake. The best mistake.
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Oct 16, 2022 05:03
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I love Andy's videos. I should buy that big tank.
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Oct 16, 2022 05:20
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I googled "Andy's hobby" because I don't think I'd heard of it, and found this:  I choose to assume this was a Nazi experiment to weaponize bees. This was the deployment vehicle.
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Oct 16, 2022 06:06
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Blue Footed Booby posted:I googled "Andy's hobby" because I don't think I'd heard of it, and found this: Went looking as it didn't look like a beehive and seem rather dumb. quote:To further upgrade the Pionier Kompanien (English: Engineer companies), they were equipped with new Pionier Fahrzeuge (English: Engineer vehicles). These were vehicles intended to remove any obstacles and barricades. The first variant was called the Panzer I mit Abwurfvorrichtung (English: Panzer I with explosive charge dropping device). The Abwurfvorrichtung variant transported a 50 kg explosive charge which would then be dropped from an extended arm onto the target. At first, these were only used by Panzer Battalion 38 but, in 1940, a production order for 100 additional vehicles was given. These would be issued to the newly formed Panzer Pionier Kompanien (English: tank engineer companies) in specialized Zerstörungszüge (English: Destruction platoons) with 5 vehicles each. They participated in the invasion of France, where their performance was adequate for their intended role. From: https://tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2/germany/panzer_i_ausfb.php#index35
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Oct 16, 2022 06:28
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The bulwark stanchions are replaced, and look so much better: I'm trying my best to get the plastic deck to work but it's just ... not. With 'positive' deck lines and woodgrain the only option is to get it smooth and use brushes and files to mimick a rough surface. Unfortunately I just can't seem to get one of the joins to hide. It annoys me, but I'm not sure if it annoys me enough to double the price of the kit to fix.  The Locator posted:So rigging is divided into two parts. Running Rigging and Standing Rigging. The Locator posted:You can have the spars up without the sheets, the sheets only attach to the pulleys on the spars to hold the sails. The spar is raised up by the halyard and then secured and adjusted for tilt with the lifts, and then turned with the fore and aft braces. FrozenVent posted:Be hard to have the spars up without sheets and halyards. Just asking for trouble at that point. I think I need to understand what rigging is included in the Revell design. Obviously, it's not everything - the bunt, clew and leechlines for example are definitely not there - but maybe enough? If I had to guess, it would be the standing rigging. The proprietor of HISMODEL suggests that the ratlines and shrouds are about 60% of the rigging time-wise if I go with a full rig - but 60% of HOW LONG? Honestly, I just don't know how much I'm letting myself in for time-wise with the rigging - the goal is for the model to be finished too, rather than be set aside because it's too long or tough!
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Oct 16, 2022 08:18
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Southern Heel posted:The bulwark stanchions are replaced, and look so much better: Bulwarks look good, not sure about placing them before the deck, but I have no idea how that deck is designed relative to the stanchions. I would expect the stanchions to pierce the deck, but I don't know. As far as the rigging goes, the big full rigged ships like that are generally rigged (by modelers) by starting at the bottom with the main mast supports, and working up. So you would start by placing the heavy braces (the actual term is fleeing my brain this late at night) that go forward from the mast, and then the shrouds for the lower mast. You would then take a look and see what else can be rigged for the lower mast sections and do all of that before adding the next mast tier, doing all those heavy standing rigging, etc. Different guys do it in different ways, but the key is to work from the inside out. If you do all the 'outside' rigging and then leave something deep inside the web of rigging for later, that piece is gonna be one serious pain in the rear end. In any case, I'd suggest starting on the lower masts like that, see how much you enjoy doing it, and how long it takes, etc. and then let that guide you for how much you want to do as far as the details go. It would probably end up still being a really good looking model even with significant portions of the rigging missing. Only crazy people like me would look closely and wonder why a bunch of stuff is missing. Lol. The ratlines, once you figure out how to do them, go surprisingly fast. You sort of develop a 'system' for each one and the knots used are pretty simple (clove hitches) and you can do them pretty fast. You should leave them off for as long as you can to allow easier access to the mast, but definitely have to do them before any other rigging that will be outside of the shrouds, or they will be really hard. Most people do like one 'shroud set' per day or something, while also working on other stuff, as it can be tedious just doing the same thing over and over again like ratlines. It can get kind of zen though and go pretty fast. I'm not sure how true it will be for a plastic model, but I would say that my little ship the rigging was maybe 20%-25% of the overall time? Maybe less than that, but a lot of what took me a long time you won't even do (forming and planking the hull for example) I don't think.
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Oct 16, 2022 08:33
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grassy gnoll posted:Pleasingly bright and tidy color separation. SkunkDuster posted:Love it! That is a great color scheme. Thanks! I'd been very tempted to do the alternate scheme in the kit as it's pretty unique looking, but it would have negated the point of this being a quick build as it would have meant a lot of careful masking.  Blue Footed Booby posted:I googled "Andy's hobby" because I don't think I'd heard of it He's got a pretty good youtube channel, a brick & mortar shop in Arizona (I think), US and European online stores, and also runs the 'Mediocre Modellers Group' on fb which is one of the less rivet-countery modelling communities.
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Oct 16, 2022 12:56
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Southern Heel posted:Unfortunately I just can't seem to get one of the joins to hide. the one joint near the top of the picture? You need to go after it with a flat file. I think the plates don't line up quite right. Either a Glass nail file or a hard file from the hardware store. don't use a foam backed one as it will conform. You want to blast the high surface until it levels, then come in with the softer sanding solutions.
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Oct 17, 2022 13:40
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