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Motronic posted:First result, not a recommendation, etc, but this is the class of product I'm talking about : https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Strong-Outdoor-Eliminator-Outside/dp/B08WM34ZDR Ah I didn't think to look for pet stuff. Good call thanks.
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Oct 13, 2022 00:29
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Leperflesh posted:It's like $250 each time, and yeah it's gross, but since it doesn't need to be done annually it's harder to remember to do it in time. Seems like ~3 years is an unsafe interval so ~2 years should do it. You should do it annually because if you think it's gross that it's escaping outside your house wait until it escapes inside your house. You can also see about using the Definitely Safe To Use copper sulfite root discouragers. You basically flush it down your toilet 2x a year before bed/leaving for work with the goal of it sort of sitting in your sewer lateral for a bit before hitting the city. That might get you to a 2-year interval on jetting, but honestly I would try to work out something where nothing is really jamming up by the time you're doing it. Are they running a camera down when they do it before/after? That should help you know if your pipes are degrading more or the tree is growing faster.
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Oct 13, 2022 00:43
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Leperflesh posted:Ah I didn't think to look for pet stuff. Good call thanks. Also look at the MSDS for the product and search around -- sometimes you can find stuff like this in bulk from tack & feed and tractor supply stores.
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Oct 13, 2022 00:59
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Motronic posted:If it's still on the market that means they aren't offering a sufficient "discount" to cover the costs of remediation. It very well may be cheaper to tear it down than to remediate it, especially if it's that small. H110Hawk posted:Call serv-pro and ask for a bid. My parents bought a 2-pack-a-day-since-i-got-back-from-the-war house and paid serv-pro like $10k or $15k in like year 2000 dollars (so just double it lol) to fix the problem. As Motronic suggested, you basically use a grease cutter on the walls to get the base layer of smoke oil off, then you seal everything, and you replace any fabrics. They shouldn't have wasted their money on carpet because it likely needs to go now but serv-pro can answer that question. You also run ozone generators that have ventilation warnings on the side for a week or two post everything. PainterofCrap posted:Also replace all of the receptacles and switches. It lurks in the wall that way. 
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Oct 13, 2022 01:03
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Zugzwang posted:I wanted to pop back in to thank y’all for the input on the smokey house. My folks did not end up buying it. They asked the sellers to remediate the smoke or pay for it to be remediated and were told “lol.” Meanwhile the house has been on the market for 2 months and is still listed at way too high a price  You can always send them a bid for like price less 10x abatement estimate. Now is not the time for them to pretend they're getting early 2022 prices for their house. Especially with a material defect of contact nicotine poisoning. Even most smokers don't want that.
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Oct 13, 2022 01:09
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Leperflesh posted:It's like $250 each time, and yeah it's gross, but since it doesn't need to be done annually it's harder to remember to do it in time. Seems like ~3 years is an unsafe interval so ~2 years should do it. To not have poo poo backing up onto my lawn, I'd probably just go with the $250/yr, even if it doesn't need to be done. Did you try any of the "root kill" products?
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Oct 13, 2022 01:12
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We have an old clay sewer and lots of trees and use RootX and it seems to avoid needing to get someone out to snake the line. We also bought insurance in the line because the annual cost was fairly low and if we ever do need to have someone snake it the cost is something stupid low like $50. Then when the day comes to properly replace the line the savings will be worth it.
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Oct 13, 2022 01:28
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H110Hawk posted:You should do it annually because if you think it's gross that it's escaping outside your house wait until it escapes inside your house. You can also see about using the Definitely Safe To Use copper sulfite root discouragers. You basically flush it down your toilet 2x a year before bed/leaving for work with the goal of it sort of sitting in your sewer lateral for a bit before hitting the city. That might get you to a 2-year interval on jetting, but honestly I would try to work out something where nothing is really jamming up by the time you're doing it. They're running a snake with a 3" blade, which comes back out with a wad of tiny roots, and that clears the line all the way to the main sewer (which is located in the center of the street). This is ceramic pipe, so I have little concern about it degrading and neither does our preferred plumber company which so far has been very good and communicative with us. One thing I looked at years ago was this online promotion for a sewer-lining thing where they inject uhhh... plastic stuff? Or something? Into the line and coat the inside of it and that is a cheaper option than actually replacing the sewer line, although it also reduces the interior diameter somewhat and may or may not be effective. Anyway that's all beside the point, I'm grateful for the advice on making our dirt stop smelling and we'll address the sewer maintenance thanks.
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Oct 13, 2022 01:35
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H110Hawk posted:
It’s owned by one of those nationwide flipping companies. They bought it at the top of the market a few months ago, did some work (but not smoke removal, obviously), and were banking on its value continuing to go up by tens of thousands per month. Welp.
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Oct 13, 2022 01:35
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Wasabi the J posted:Do NOT gently caress with drywall anchors for this; it will not work and will cause your ceiling to sag, at best -- at worst it will come out of the ceiling in a big dangerous mess. You want all the flanges to line up to the rafters, so base your plan off that. Yeah, I wasn't going to bother with this for the ceiling, studs or bust.
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Oct 13, 2022 01:44
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Leperflesh posted:One thing I looked at years ago was this online promotion for a sewer-lining thing where they inject uhhh... plastic stuff? Or something? Into the line and coat the inside of it and that is a cheaper option than actually replacing the sewer line, although it also reduces the interior diameter somewhat and may or may not be effective. You're talking about CIPP lining here (also commonly known as trenchless). It's not cheap, but it may be worth getting a quote for - if you're just going a short distance from a cleanout to the city sewer it might not be crazy. I paid about $150/ft to have mine lined, but they also did some other work as part of that, so it's hard to compare.
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Oct 13, 2022 01:46
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IIRC it's like 150 feet, at $150/foot that'd be well over $20k... but of course I'm responsible for my sewer line all the way to the main which is in the center of the street so a full trench replacement means paying for sidewalk and street excavation and repairs, which lol maybe that'd be a lot more. Trenchless replacement is one of the things I found before (like 6 years ago?) I think this list of four things are all "trenchless" but not all of them are CIPP? https://www.rotorooter.com/blog/drains/4-types-of-sewer-linings-for-cracked-pipes/ It's cool that there's these different options though. The reality is most of my sewer line is fine, there's just the one spot where roots are getting in so replacing the entire line is probably overkill.
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Oct 13, 2022 01:55
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I'm pretty sure you live near me (I see you post in the bay area thread) and was going to recommend lining the pipe. There are a couple different ways it's done, and I don't know which is cheaper. One way bursts the pipe with a head that's larger than the pipe and runs a new flexible liner down it, which then cures in place. The other is a spray on liner. You might be able to just have the spray liner installed in the area that's a problem, but expect to pay for the plumbers entire day if you do. Also it wouldn't surprise me if CC Central San starts to require video surveys and repairs to laterals when you sell or get a building permit. WCWD already does it in their part of the county and many other places in the bay do too.
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Oct 13, 2022 03:27
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Zugzwang posted:That is basically what happened. They put in a bid less a generous estimated cost of abatement. The sellers budged by about 1% and said they won’t go lower. So that’s that. Note, its price would be too high even if it weren’t smoky. lol, you can't negotiate with their algorithm. That thing is gonna sit on the market until someone higher up panics and starts adjusting prices on everything manually. Leperflesh posted:IIRC it's like 150 feet, at $150/foot that'd be well over $20k... but of course I'm responsible for my sewer line all the way to the main which is in the center of the street so a full trench replacement means paying for sidewalk and street excavation and repairs, which lol maybe that'd be a lot more. I've seen hybrid done before: dig a trench in the yard and replace, while you're down there line under the sidewalk and road.
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Oct 13, 2022 14:08
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Leperflesh posted:IIRC it's like 150 feet, at $150/foot that'd be well over $20k... but of course I'm responsible for my sewer line all the way to the main which is in the center of the street so a full trench replacement means paying for sidewalk and street excavation and repairs, which lol maybe that'd be a lot more. I *think* they can do spot installs of CIPP, so maybe you wouldn't have to line the entire thing.
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Oct 13, 2022 15:22
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Motronic posted:lol, you can't negotiate with their algorithm. That thing is gonna sit on the market until someone higher up panics and starts adjusting prices on everything manually.
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Oct 13, 2022 16:46
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Zugzwang posted:Yeah, I saved it on Zillow out of morbid curiosity, and when it asked me why I saved the house (location? view? size? etc.), “comedy” was sadly not among the options. I'd assume that if they do decide to reprice it they'll take the listing down for a bit so it doesn't look like one, long listing to anyone who isn't looking carefully at price history.
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Oct 13, 2022 16:51
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Danhenge posted:I'd assume that if they do decide to reprice it they'll take the listing down for a bit so it doesn't look like one, long listing to anyone who isn't looking carefully at price history. That doesn't really work anymore because you're not "favoriting" a listing on Zillow/Redfin, you're favoriting a property address. Everyone can easily see all of the pricing/listing information and anyone who has marked a property will get a notice whenever any of this changes.
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Oct 13, 2022 16:57
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Now that I think about it my old house is probably due for another sewer line root removal. I hope the new owners appreciate the clean out I installed after the first time when the plumber had to pull a toilet.
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Oct 13, 2022 17:57
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Concrete/cement question: First, the background: We're getting a 78" round hot tub delivered. We have a deck that is like 4" off the ground... underneath it is a concrete slab that is 5" thick. The slab is sufficient, I'm told, to support a hot tub. The old deck wood, not so much. So we cut a hole in the deck to plop the hot tub into, it'll be nice and sunk in there, seems cool. The surprise when I cut the hole is: there are actually 2 slabs, and the seam runs about 8" from the edge of where the hot tub will go. And the slab that takes up most of the area, let's call it slab 1, has a significant sag, starting from about the centerpoint (where it is level with slab 2), and going down to about 3/4" lower than slab 2, where it meets slab 2. I figured patching it up with some concrete/cement would be the best way to make it flat enough to be good for the hot tub. Hot tub store guy agreed. I know that a layer that runs from super thin up to 3/4" thick will not be very strong... but the stuff under it is, and I figure even if it cracks it will just become some very flat rocks that will still hold the hot tub just fine. It's almost like, the level of a patch job, but a very very big patch. It doesn't have to look good either. I do want it roughly level... hot tub store guy said if we were doing a brand new slab they would say to shoot for about 1 degree of slope and as flat as achievable, but in reality that there is enough give that like, 1/4" of undulations is not going to ruin anything. So what I'm trying to figure out is: What kind of concrete (or cement?) do I need? Concrete is chunky right, so maybe not that since I'm only trying to lay a thin layer down? Any tips or tricks on how to put it down? I have a cement trowel and a 5 gallon bucket, can probably borrow a wheel barrow if needed, which I might, as I calculate it would take about 5 gallons worth and we'd need some additional space for mixing. I'm a cement/concrete newb so any basic tips are appreciated. I figure it's a pretty low stakes project since the structural part is already solid and being ugly is fine. P.S. posting my hole   e: the hole is cut to 82" diam, to give 2" of clearance all around the tub e2: pls do not hate on my hole (  ), I know it's not perfect, we plan to aesthetically cover it once the hot tub is inalso pls feel free to hate on my lovely old deck, we plan to rebuild it some day alnilam fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Oct 14, 2022 |
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Oct 14, 2022 04:58
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There are all sorts of products for this kind of thing. Since you won't be looking at it, something like deck mud would probably work fine. There are better looking products out there, though, that let you add thickness to a slab. I've used Ardex ERM before, but it's kind of pricey. Make sure you install whatever it is to the minimum thickness it calls for (some allow a feather edge, some require at least 1/8 inch thick) or you may have it crack and spall.
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Oct 14, 2022 05:21
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alnilam posted:We're getting a 78" round hot tub delivered. We have a deck that is like 4" off the ground... underneath it is a concrete slab that is 5" thick. The slab is sufficient, I'm told, to support a hot tub. The old deck wood, not so much. So we cut a hole in the deck to plop the hot tub into, it'll be nice and sunk in there, seems cool. Nice hole there sailor, the  are going to love it!
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Oct 14, 2022 14:22
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alnilam posted:Concrete/cement question:
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Oct 14, 2022 15:37
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AFewBricksShy posted:If you don't mind, what's the ballpark figure for a hot tub of that size installed these days? That's on my "would really like to get at some point" list, but I'm not sure if that's "Win the lottery" or "tax refund" money. I've seen prices from 5-10K, which is a hell of a swing. There is a ton of variation as I understand it. Some of it is the same stuff sold by slicker sales people, some of it is higher quality parts. How you discern that is left as an exercise for the reader. Usual stuff applies: years (decades) in business, pump made in the USA, how hard of an up sell bullshit they give you, warranty length, UL listed pump and electrical, manual not poorly translated from Chinese.
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Oct 14, 2022 16:17
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IANAE, but the SF load of a hot tub is not too bad for a property driveway-type concrete slab, which typically deals with (at worst) car tires loading two tons onto about two square feet (in four 6" square increments of up to a half-ton each for your larger bro-trucks). Your issue I suppose is more about settlement / sag. There's really no way to know that; I would dig at the edge & see how thick the concrete is & whether or not it is on any type of substrate media - but you don't have access to the edge. It's hard to tell from the photo that there is a sag at all. Are there any groundwater issues in the yard? Signs that the slab there has settled or tilted one way or the other? If the sag is due to settlement, it may continue under the mass of a full hot tub.
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Oct 14, 2022 16:17
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Motronic posted:That's not a dog/cat piss house. That's a house where somebody's dog had a few accidents. What I'm talking about are the nightmare scenario houses like the one some goon bought that had multiple cats pissing and making GBS threads everywhere for years owned by an end stage alcoholic hoarder.
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Oct 14, 2022 17:25
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PainterofCrap posted:IANAE, but the SF load of a hot tub is not too bad for a property driveway-type concrete slab, which typically deals with (at worst) car tires loading two tons onto about two square feet (in four 6" square increments of up to a half-ton each for your larger bro-trucks). Yeah structurally I'm not worried at all, I dug the edge and it's plenty thick. I'm just worried about the hot tub's bottom being on such an uneven surface, which I've read can cause long term damage to the tub itself - the water in there makes it extremely heavy and it's not built to flex a whole lot. That's why all I want to do is even it out a bit on the surface. AFewBricksShy posted:If you don't mind, what's the ballpark figure for a hot tub of that size installed these days? That's on my "would really like to get at some point" list, but I'm not sure if that's "Win the lottery" or "tax refund" money. I've seen prices from 5-10K, which is a hell of a swing. Plus electrician to run the line for the hookup, price TBD but I'm guessing several hundo... but no way am I messing with 240V + water myself.
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Oct 14, 2022 17:29
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Have we heard from that goon since they finished moving in? Would you come back after all of the handwaving they did when told "this isn't sufficient and you're going to smell it again when the temperature/humidity/season/wind changes"? I'd imagine they are probably both nose blind to it and have had multiple guests point it out by now.
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Oct 14, 2022 17:35
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alnilam posted:Plus electrician to run the line for the hookup, price TBD but I'm guessing several hundo... but no way am I messing with 240V + water myself. The trick here is in fact not to have a plus sign between them.
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Oct 14, 2022 17:41
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Sitting in my dry, empty hot tub, smug in satisfaction that I am safe from electric shock
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Oct 14, 2022 17:54
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alnilam posted:Concrete/cement question: my first thought would be to arrange 3-4 pressure treated 2x6 in the hole, and you can shim those to level before fastening. Hot tub rests on top. Second idea would be to grind the second, higher slab down until its even and level with the first one. 3/4" isn't much to grind down. I'd be reluctant to use a leveling compound, that's gonna be a lotta weight focused on a small area of thinly-spread compound. I dont think it would hold up for long, and then you're back where you started
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Oct 15, 2022 01:10
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Are there any tricks for cleaning this part of a window?
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Oct 15, 2022 21:46
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fletcher posted:Are there any tricks for cleaning this part of a window? Toothbrush and cleaner of choice, and or blast with compressor.
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Oct 16, 2022 01:31
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Brush on a handle. Consider a hand-held steam cleaner if this in a annual event Which reminds me: I have to shop-vac all of my front porch casement windows - they've been open all summer & are loaded with cobwebs, leaves and many dead bugs.
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Oct 16, 2022 02:36
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Hole update: I used patching cement and it is sufficient, I think. Not as even as I had hoped but better than it was and good enough for the tub. But goddamn working with cement sucks! Doing a DIY project of a new sort for the first time with a 20-30 minute clock ticking on you is incredibly stressful.
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Oct 17, 2022 05:08
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How dangerous is inhaling a bit of a plume of flooring cement? No mask. Here is the safety sheet. I didn’t exactly breathe deep, but didn’t fully hold my breath. Indoor space but I got out of there immediately. https://s7d1.scene7.com/is/content/TileShop/pdf/safety-data-sheets/floor_mix_sds.pdf
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Oct 17, 2022 23:05
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icantfindaname posted:How dangerous is inhaling a bit of a plume of flooring cement? No mask. Here is the safety sheet. I didn’t exactly breathe deep, but didn’t fully hold my breath. Indoor space but I got out of there immediately. I suspect what it says on that sds is as accurate info as you're going to get - seek medical attention if you're experiencing persistent coughing or any other effects. Otherwise, don't be stupid next time and you won't have to wonder if you've permanently harmed yourself or others.
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Oct 17, 2022 23:46
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Got an issue with a saddle valve. Looking for a quick fix. In short, it’s leaking. We got a new refrigerator delivered today and there was an existing saddle valve installed for the old water /ice maker. It looks like they reused that fitting but now it’s leaking. Looks like they half assed some Teflon tape. The closest valve to secure the water near the saddle valve is the main water valve, which isn’t ideal obviously. Planning on calling the appliance shop tomorrow and yelling at them but that doesn’t fix the problem now. Can I tighten or loose this thing at all?  Edit. Turning the t to the right just made it gush. Turning to the left increased the drip. I ended up tightening the nut closest to the at and that seems to have worked for now. I’m doubtful to think the appliance shop will do anything at all, so what’s the best solution? Would a sharkbite fitting be ok in this scenario or do I need a plumber to fix it proper? nwin fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Oct 18, 2022 |
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Oct 18, 2022 00:16
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icantfindaname posted:How dangerous is inhaling a bit of a plume of flooring cement? No mask. Here is the safety sheet. I didn’t exactly breathe deep, but didn’t fully hold my breath. Indoor space but I got out of there immediately. Plenty of people do that work day in day out with no mask on to the ripe old age of 60. One hit isn't going to kill you but let that be a lesson. 
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Oct 18, 2022 00:17
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nwin posted:Got an issue with a saddle valve. Looking for a quick fix. Where is it leaking from exactly? If it's the 1/8in fitting on the valve, it looks like a hosed up tape job and just some properly applied tape might fix it. E: well it shouldn't leak when turned off though...
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Oct 18, 2022 01:28
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