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SkyeAuroline posted:I'm not jovi but if you have those minis on hand I'm interested. My experience with Vallejo primer has been universally godawful, while gesso has served well enough as a substitute when spray priming has been untenable due to heat, humidity, or both. It's not perfect and there are definitely a few models where I've noticed the loss of fidelity, but everything else I've tried for brush primer is so much worse I've basically just accepted it. (An airbrush is not feasible for me.) What color Vallejo primers have you tried, out of curiosity? I've had nothing but success brushing on several of their primers: Black, Skeleton Bone, Leather Brown, and White. I have a couple of others like Desert Tan, but they usually require like 2 or 3 coats. I would say to also give the One Shot primers from Ammo by Mig a try. From what I understand they're just rebranded Stynylrez, but I've had zero problems brushing their grey primer on.
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Oct 15, 2022 03:24
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Sydney Bottocks posted:What color Vallejo primers have you tried, out of curiosity? I've had nothing but success brushing on several of their primers: Black, Skeleton Bone, Leather Brown, and White. I have a couple of others like Desert Tan, but they usually require like 2 or 3 coats. The one I've still got on hand is Grey, believe I tried Black in the past. I'll look into Mig.
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Oct 15, 2022 03:38
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I bought a GW 40k painter starter set, a Vallejo fantasy 16 color set for half off, like this I think I have a good variety of colors without breaking the bank. Very excited.
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Oct 15, 2022 07:05
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Al-Saqr posted:Hey guys, I purchased warhammer 40k kill team recruit edition, I’m thinking ahead for how I want to paint to paint the miniatures, the box features 10 Ork Kommandos and 10 Veteran Krieg Guardsmen. I'm not the most knowledgeable about GWs current ecosystem, but if I give a half assed answer it'll bring the question onto the current page, and someone who is will correct anything I get wrong, so... I'm not aware of any one-and-done paint scheme resource for 40K. They have an app but I've heard its super super limited. I have to be captain obvious here and say: Google image search. When I'm stuck for a colour scheme for a figure, I just google the figures name (and game system if its a generic name), and almost always find something I can use for inspiration or at the very least flat out rip off. Googling "40K bad moons" brings you up a plethora of orks in yellow and black, and who knows you might find your one stop shop in there somewhere. There are various fan wikis and so on that will doubtless show you a decent selection of iconography and designs that have been used for a faction. As far as I know, GW doesnt really sell bits (the generic term for spare weapons, heads, arms, decorative cruft). They have upgrade packs for certain factions that have for example a bunch of blood angels things in so you can make your generic marines seem more blood angelly, but my gut says theres a good chance they only do those for space marines because GW. If you have any friends who are also into the hobby you can probably beg or swap some bits off them (You're going to end up with spare heads and arms you dont need, so are they so they can have a couple of ork heads if you get some of their marine heads for example). You can also buy bits off ebay, there is an entire cottage industry of people who buy GW boxes and immediately part them out on ebay. Handy if you need something specific. Also people just sell their entire bits box in one go which can be a good way of getting a variety of bits quickly. Do look at the picture before bidding though, and have a think about what bits you see you'll use vs how many space marine arms and shoulder pads there are. There are also various third party sellers who sell after market bits for 40K. People like Kromlech, they could be worth checking out. Especially if you want things that GW should have made but unexpectedly didnt, or that only come 1 per sprue of troops when you want 7. And thats not even getting into STLs/3D printing. Someone already gave a recipe for blood spatter, but I will say if you want fresh blood easily, GWs "Blood For the Blood God" paint is perfectly decent. Its a special effect paint, you put it on last after all the other paint (and varnish, the shine is part of the effect). You can use a brush (which I'd tend to do on weapons) or the toothbrush method already mentioned for spatter. Dried blood you just gotta paint on yourself, get a reddish-brown paint.
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Oct 15, 2022 10:09
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SiKboy posted:I'm not the most knowledgeable about GWs current ecosystem, but if I give a half assed answer it'll bring the question onto the current page, and someone who is will correct anything I get wrong, so... Thanks man! Very helpful! I’ll come up with some color schemes on photoshop and post pictures of it, let’s see!
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Oct 15, 2022 10:26
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Can any of y'all share some links for painting spaceships? Fleet scale space stuff. Beyond the absolute basics of block'n'wash or zenithal+contrast, someone doing studio quality big spaceship painting.
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Oct 15, 2022 20:06
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 whizzkids edit: I am so unenthused about all of these models  GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Oct 15, 2022 |
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Oct 15, 2022 20:26
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I have a couple of old (the bases say 2003) GW Warriors of Minas Tirith, specifically a couple of sword guys from this picture: I will use them as further practice, so I was thinking of doing the shields in a Haven't decided on colours yet, but definitely open to suggestions if anyone has aesthetic ideas. I want to do a lighter one because the Prussian blue on my Prussians is a bit much and I want to see how it would look, especially since the light brown + brown wash I did on their pack has popped really nicely Slyphic posted:Can any of y'all share some links for painting spaceships? Fleet scale space stuff. Beyond the absolute basics of block'n'wash or zenithal+contrast, someone doing studio quality big spaceship painting. My friend has been doing some ships for one of the Star Wars tabletop games, although I think that his "prime then drybrush" might be a little bit too basic rather than studio quality for what you're looking for.
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Oct 15, 2022 20:53
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Serperoth posted:I have a couple of old (the bases say 2003) GW Warriors of Minas Tirith, specifically a couple of sword guys from this picture:
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Oct 15, 2022 21:00
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A wash is a layer of transparent paint which collects in crevices and whatnot so it looks darker in gaps than it does on flat surfaces. Washing on top of your drybrush highlights will darken them though because even if they're very fluid there's still a thin layer left behind everywhere it goes. Contrast paints take advantage of this property by being a little thicker than washes and being meant to be put on top of highlights. So the order of things isn't fixed but based on the desired goal (in your case, base layer of paint, wash for shadows then drybrush highlights is fine).
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Oct 15, 2022 21:02
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Eej posted:A wash is a layer of transparent paint which collects in crevices and whatnot so it looks darker in gaps than it does on flat surfaces. Washing on top of your drybrush highlights will darken them though because even if they're very fluid there's still a thin layer left behind everywhere it goes. Essentially yeah, my thought is to both paint the shield's surface (and ideally not just have it be a simple flat colour) as well as the tree, without the tree-paint ending up on the shield. Might look cool to do a wash over the painted tree instead, and it could help hide any paint on the shield. All depends on what the goal is yeah. tangy yet delightful posted:I would paint the shield dark and practice shading with a wash, maybe after the wash darkens things up you'll find you want to highlight some areas with the original shield color (just experiment really). Then I would not drybrush the white tree unless you want white paint ending up on the black shield. I would use a white paint that's not very thin because you don't want it running off the tree, and holding my brush almost parallel to the shield I would paint the tree with mostly the side of my brush. Might end up wanting 2-3 coats of white this way but that's how I'd approach it anyway. Not wanting it running off the tree is why I thought about drybrushing, I figured it would stay in the protruding parts. I hadn't thought of doing that with the side, but it makes more sense on that, I even watched the Miniature Painting 101 video on that recently. I think I'll try both before actually painting the shield (on the primer) to see how the paint goes on, and then probably go with your suggestion.
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Oct 15, 2022 21:24
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SiKboy posted:I've got a vortex mixer, and while it is entirely unnecessary on a basic level it is very satisfying to use. Like I'd not recommend you get one, because you really really 100% do not need it, its a frivolous waste of money, but at the same time I dont regret getting mine. Paint go brrrr. They're like $15 on amazon and worth every penny because shaking makes my wristies huwwt 
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Oct 15, 2022 23:04
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I'd go so far as to say these days, a vortex mixer is absolutely necessary, nay essential, for mini painters. Doubly so if you use Contrast paints.
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Oct 15, 2022 23:09
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Vortex mixers own. Makes scale75, citadel contrast and many others a pleasure to work with
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Oct 15, 2022 23:22
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
I work at a game store and lemme tell you those models are mediocre as gently caress. They're cheap and they have a thin mediocre layer of primer over them and that's their only advantage. They're too small to feel like you can do much detail work, the details are often shallow and/or incredibly difficult to make out, and the plastic is some of the worst you'll find. I really hate those models a lot. e: Also generic D&D minis are just uninteresting so yeah I feel you
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Oct 15, 2022 23:22
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Yeast posted:Vortex mixers own. Makes scale75, citadel contrast and many others a pleasure to work with It eliminates the main problem people have with Army Painter paints, namely that they're ridiculously difficult to mix up by just shaking, even with agitators added into the bottle.
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Oct 15, 2022 23:27
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Silhouette posted:They're like $15 on amazon and worth every penny because shaking makes my wristies huwwt Please link the $15 vortex mixer, or at least one you'd recommend - I ain't found poo poo like that.
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Oct 15, 2022 23:56
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Price went up $11 since last year, but still https://www.amazon.com/CALIDAKA-Electric-Pigment-Machine-Manicurist/dp/B08N4PK21K
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Oct 16, 2022 00:39
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Sydney Bottocks posted:It eliminates the main problem people have with Army Painter paints, namely that they're ridiculously difficult to mix up by just shaking, even with agitators added into the bottle. I've got a lab quality vortex mixer (literally surplus from a lab) and it really ain't all that great for the high viscosity AP paints. For anything 'air-brush ready' or otherwise prethinned, it loving owns. But vortex mixers aren't better than vigorous shaking for thick stuff. Serperoth posted:My friend has been doing some ships for one of the Star Wars tabletop games, although I think that his "prime then drybrush" might be a little bit too basic rather than studio quality for what you're looking for. Appreciate the thought, but I'm looking for someone painting ships significantly better than me, to learn from and inspire. I can find a lot of finished stuff out there that looks awesome, but not much in the way of tutorials or videos.
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Oct 16, 2022 00:53
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I have no experience in the realm of painting spaceships but I tried a quick search for battlefleet gothic studio paint tutorial and got this. Might be a search term to explore for you. https://youtu.be/O2mK7OR_wPI
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Oct 16, 2022 01:27
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Slyphic posted:I've got a lab quality vortex mixer (literally surplus from a lab) and it really ain't all that great for the high viscosity AP paints. For anything 'air-brush ready' or otherwise prethinned, it loving owns. But vortex mixers aren't better than vigorous shaking for thick stuff. The $100 vortex mixer I have spins up the pigment in less than 30 seconds...
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Oct 16, 2022 01:46
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GreenBuckanneer posted:The $100 vortex mixer I have spins up the pigment in less than 30 seconds... I likewise got a cheap vortex and it works great for speed paint. Pretty decadent purchase, but a good one w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Oct 16, 2022 |
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Oct 16, 2022 01:55
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tangy yet delightful posted:I have no experience in the realm of painting spaceships but I tried a quick search for battlefleet gothic studio paint tutorial and got this. Might be a search term to explore for you. I appreciate the sentiment, but I'm not looking for surrogate searches. That dude is painting his ships at about the same level as myself, competent, but kinda simplistic all told. Searching for 'studio' gets you mostly fast approximations of box art; it doesn't turn up what I'm actually after.
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Oct 16, 2022 01:55
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w00tmonger posted:I likewise got a cheap vortex and it works great for speed paint. Pretty decent purchase, but a good one Speed paints are low viscosity paints. GreenBuckanneer posted:The $100 vortex mixer I have spins up the pigment in less than 30 seconds... Mine's about the same, but it's in stark contrast to the 2 seconds it takes to mix a low viscosity paint to perfectly homogenous. I find shaking gets me there slightly quicker, and since I don't switch paints often (lots of batch work), doesn't bother my arm at all like it would if I were doing like a single piece at a time.
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Oct 16, 2022 02:00
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Out of all the dumb expensive tools I have collected, the vortex mixer is the one I would recommend to anybody in the hobby. Looking for some advice on this overlord I started painting today. I think I discovered wet blending by accident and came up with this neat orange metallic look that I really like, but I cant think of a good secondary color besides black for the joints etc. In the pic it has aeldari emerald contrast for all the regal trim which is OKAY, but I feel doesn't quite work. Any suggestions? Please dont mind all the other mistakes. I was using him as a practice piece for learning edge highlights and energy weapons.  In other news I think contrast paints have spoiled me. I am so unused to thinning standard acrylics that I feel I never get a proper consistency anymore. The botched edge highlights on the loin cloth were with non-thinned mecha air green-blue. Maybe my brushes are holding too much water and thinning the paints as I use them?
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Oct 16, 2022 02:48
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Slyphic posted:I've got a lab quality vortex mixer (literally surplus from a lab) and it really ain't all that great for the high viscosity AP paints. For anything 'air-brush ready' or otherwise prethinned, it loving owns. But vortex mixers aren't better than vigorous shaking for thick stuff. All's I can say is your experience is completely different than mine. For a "spur of the moment" test, here's a bottle of AP Oak Brown (a regular AP paint, not a Speedpaint or an Air paint. I think it came in one of the big AP paint set boxes that I got back in 2017 or 2018). I haven't used this particular paint in several months, possibly even a full year. You can see how badly it's separated from laying on its side in my paint rack for so long.  And here it is after roughly 3-4 minutes or so on the vortex mixer, including turning the bottle over so both top and bottom get mixed around.  And here's a blob of the mixed paint on a palette.  That paint was so viscous, there is absolutely no way I could have shaken it by hand to get it as usable as the vortex mixer did in like 3-4 minutes. Even after the first couple of times on the vortex mixer, the agitators still weren't rattling around enough to mix it; it took a couple more times on the mixer to loosen them up. When that happened, then the paint began mixing wonderfully. I can only say that a vortex mixer and some paint agitators have made a huge difference in using the basic AP paints for me. This is the vortex mixer I use, in case if anyone's interested.
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Oct 16, 2022 03:26
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Bored Online posted:Out of all the dumb expensive tools I have collected, the vortex mixer is the one I would recommend to anybody in the hobby. This is kinda why I fell off from painting more Necrons because they're not easy to throw more colours onto but I'd recommend a sparing shock of white here and there. Maybe a white head or white on the "cloth".
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Oct 16, 2022 03:32
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PoptartsNinja posted:It's a godsend for contrast paints since they separate so much over time. If you transfer into dropper bottles you can see the mixer strip the settled paint off the bottom and just imagine how much manual shaking it would've taken to do the same thing. They own, I love mine. They make ballbearings more effective too. Slyphic posted:I've got a lab quality vortex mixer (literally surplus from a lab) and it really ain't all that great for the high viscosity AP paints. For anything 'air-brush ready' or otherwise prethinned, it loving owns. But vortex mixers aren't better than vigorous shaking for thick stuff. It hurts my bad wrists less than shaking it by hand  IncredibleIgloo posted:Update on the camo flat black: It seems to take paint just fine, from the pot, from a wet palette, and contrast paints. So that is good. It is also very, very flat. It makes most other black primers look shiny by contrast. So I actually think I might like it better than most. That's good to hear, I bought a can after comparing the options the store had Improbable Lobster fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Oct 16, 2022 |
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Oct 16, 2022 03:33
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Improbable Lobster posted:They own, I love mine. They make ballbearings more effective too. It is so flat I am thinking it might actually be good for burnt out logs/charred scenery stuff. Just leave the spray and then add a touch of highlights.
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Oct 16, 2022 05:38
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Shake with your arm. The wrist is a useless piece of poo poo joint that does nothing but get injured.
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Oct 16, 2022 08:22
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Slyphic posted:Appreciate the thought, but I'm looking for someone painting ships significantly better than me, to learn from and inspire. I can find a lot of finished stuff out there that looks awesome, but not much in the way of tutorials or videos. Yeah, I figured, he doesn't like doing ships much. Would they use similar techniques as other kinds of models? My dad used to do racing cars, and it's completely apples and oranges to miniatures, so I wonder if for ships you could use techniques from airplanes or the like? If so there could be tutorials, but for bigger stuff they tended to do more as forum posts IIRC.
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Oct 16, 2022 09:41
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Siivola posted:Shake with your arm. The wrist is a useless piece of poo poo joint that does nothing but get injured. I'm going to speedpaint my army!  *spends more time shaking paints than actually painting anything*
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Oct 16, 2022 12:39
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Serperoth posted:Yeah, I figured, he doesn't like doing ships much. I've been going through scale modeling historical forums and pilfering ideas. Like the guys doing 1:200 jets have some awesome advice on engine wear and discoloration that I've made use of. But I'm looking for people working in 1:10,000 or smaller.
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Oct 16, 2022 14:28
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There's definitely a relative lack of mini vehicle painting tutorials out there. The typical zenithal basecoat contrast method doesn't work too great on flat panels for instance. It's surprisingly difficult to figure out an interesting lighting scheme and the more finicky techniques (like illumination by panel or Mig Jiminez's take on modulation) require a few rounds of masking, which is a pain. When Duncan Rhodes did a 15mm tank he didn't bother with any lighting schemes at all. I guess it's easier to do edge highlighting though since tanks/ships/etc are a pile of edges
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Oct 16, 2022 15:16
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Marx Headroom posted:There's definitely a relative lack of mini vehicle painting tutorials out there. The typical zenithal basecoat contrast method doesn't work too great on flat panels for instance. It's surprisingly difficult to figure out an interesting lighting scheme and the more finicky techniques (like illumination by panel or Mig Jiminez's take on modulation) require a few rounds of masking, which is a pain. When Duncan Rhodes did a 15mm tank he didn't bother with any lighting schemes at all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGidaioV5Y8 Vince. It's always Vince.
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Oct 16, 2022 22:24
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Is this too much? Gonna paint it as wind and lighting. 
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Oct 16, 2022 22:34
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Lumpy posted:Vince. Does he have a cute single brother that works in smaller scales?
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Oct 16, 2022 22:55
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Is this too much? Gonna paint it as wind and lighting. What in the warhammer 40,000 universe implied to you that its even possible for something to be "Too much"? If anything its not too much enough! Seriously though, I think it looks good and my only concern is it looks like its going to be a bitch to store and transport. Also I've never seen poster tack so bright blue.
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Oct 16, 2022 23:07
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Here's a few
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Oct 16, 2022 23:20
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 Rats! With guns! Gun rats!
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