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Bark! A Vagrant posted:That's awesome, what was your recipe for the saison? It was a full grain kit with the grain already mixed so I don’t have the exact grain bill unfortunately. Will have to look up the grains, yeast and hops as well as the mash/boil schema
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Oct 5, 2022 20:45
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I'm venturing into the unknown and brewing a NEIPA. How's this look? Basics Big Double Hazy IPA 8.1% / 19.9 °P Batch Volume: 5 gal Boil Time: 60 min Vitals Original Gravity: 1.082 Final Gravity: 1.020 IBU (Tinseth): 44 BU/GU: 0.53 Color: 6 SRM Malts (17 lb 4 oz) 12 lb (69.6%) — Epiphany Craft Malt Foundation Malt — Grain — 2.3 °L 3 lb (17.4%) — Simpsons Oats Malted — Grain — 1.7 °L 1 lb (5.8%) — Briess Wheat White Malt — Grain — 2.3 °L 12 oz (4.4%) — Weyermann Acidulated — Grain — 1.9 °L 8 oz (2.9%) — Weyermann Munich I — Grain — 6.2 °L Hops (13 oz) Boil 0.33 oz (12 IBU) — Idaho #7 (Whole) 13.4% — Boil — 60 min 0.33 oz (10 IBU) — Idaho #7 (Whole) 13.4% — Boil — 30 min 0.34 oz (6 IBU) — Idaho #7 (Whole) 13.4% — Boil — 10 min Hopstand 1 oz (4 IBU) — Belma (Whole) 9.8% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 180 °F 1 oz (6 IBU) — Idaho #7 (Whole) 13.4% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 180 °F 1 oz (6 IBU) — Mosaic (Whole) 12.25% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 180 °F Dry Hop One at 48°F 2 oz — Belma (Whole) 9.8% — Dry Hop — day 4 2 oz — Mosaic (Whole) 12.25% — Dry Hop — day 4 0.5 oz — Idaho #7 (Whole) 13.4% — Dry Hop — day 4 Dry Hop Two at 48°F 2 oz — Belma (Whole) 9.8% — Dry Hop — day 6 2 oz — Mosaic (Whole) 12.25% — Dry Hop — day 6 0.5 oz — Idaho #7 (Whole) 13.4% — Dry Hop — day 6 Water Profile Ca2+ 118 Mg2+ 7 Na+ 8 Cl- 181 SO42- 71 HCO3- 16 Yeast 1 pkg — Omega OYL-011 British Ale V 73% 1 pkg — Omega OYL-052 DIPA Ale 76% Pitch at 65 °F and let it free rise. Ferment under either .5 or 1 bar of pressure.
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Oct 7, 2022 03:50
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For me, it is a bit high gravity, especially with all that adjunct, the total hop amount is also rather extreme and I don't see the value in multiple boil additions for this style, but you will probably be fine.
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Oct 7, 2022 08:09
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Welp, that brew ended up being a bit of a disaster. I missed the gravity target dramatically - 1.055 OG instead of 1.082. Really don't know what the hell happened, I'm guessing I'm milling exceptionally poorly. On the positive side, the Idaho 7 was smelling absolutely divine, and it will be beer. Fermentation is proceeding super quickly, probably because I was preparing for a significantly strong beer. I ended up simplifying to 70/30 pale/malted oats, but the rest was the same.
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Oct 10, 2022 03:39
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Bang some DME in it to make up the gravity, no sweat.
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Oct 11, 2022 00:36
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:Welp, that brew ended up being a bit of a disaster. I missed the gravity target dramatically - 1.055 OG instead of 1.082. Really don't know what the hell happened, I'm guessing I'm milling exceptionally poorly. On the positive side, the Idaho 7 was smelling absolutely divine, and it will be beer. Fermentation is proceeding super quickly, probably because I was preparing for a significantly strong beer. I ended up simplifying to 70/30 pale/malted oats, but the rest was the same. I brew a tripel yesterday and missed gravity by a similar margin. For me it was probably due to adding too much sparge water. Found out that my brew kettle markings that show gallons are US Liquid Gallons instead of Imperial Gallons. I was aiming for 24 liters but the 6 gallon mark in the bucket was below the 25 liter mark (which did not have a number next to them, only 20L and 30L do). I tried to confirm it with a quick google search and that gave me the wrong unit as a result. On a 6 gallon batch that’s a 4.5 liter difference  I was curious on how you determined the water profile for your NEIPA by the way.
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Oct 11, 2022 10:40
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I think I just took the water profile from Brewfather.
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Oct 11, 2022 23:21
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Just getting into homebrewing with 1 gallon batches and was wondering if anyone had recommendations for good portable induction burner I can put on a counter? The gas burners on my stove take absolutely forever to heat the water, and struggle to maintain a good rolling boil. Ideally, I'd like to get something that could handle going to 2 or 5 gallon batches as well. I've considered trying something with propane but I don't really have indoor space for such a setup, and that I could use the induction for regular cooking as well.
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Oct 13, 2022 04:58
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Master_Odin posted:Just getting into homebrewing with 1 gallon batches and was wondering if anyone had recommendations for good portable induction burner I can put on a counter? The gas burners on my stove take absolutely forever to heat the water, and struggle to maintain a good rolling boil. Ideally, I'd like to get something that could handle going to 2 or 5 gallon batches as well. I have one of the many 1800w portable induction burners and they tend to be a little faster to boil water, but you’ll run into size of pot issues once you get above a 2 gallon batch size. It’s not that it will struggle more than any other 1800w burner, it’s that you’ll be boiling 6ish gallons of sugar water and need a big enough pot that isn’t also wide enough to trigger the safety shut off for heating off the rings. They’ll work great for smaller batch sizes for sure. Homebrewfinds will often post deals on those, and I’d check to see what’s come up there recently. Propane indoors isn’t a great idea typically, though if you had it properly vented and secured it’s possible. I’m not sure I’d want my big propane burner inside for the reason of moisture issues myself. That’s a lot of boil off that wouldn’t be under a hood.
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Oct 13, 2022 06:22
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I got an induction cooktop from Ikea and it's worked pretty well for a few 2.5 gallon batches. The reviews on the Ikea induction burner are pretty bad though. I don't remember it having such bad reviews when I bought it 2 years ago. I've got a ~11" diameter pot that I use on it and it can keep a decent boil. It looks like I never wrote down how long it takes to get to a boil but IIRC it's about an hour if you start with like 3-ish gallons of room temp wort. My induction cooktop boiled off about 2 liters per hour. That probably depends on like ambient temperature and drafts, and that's with me putting a few blankets around the kettle.
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Oct 14, 2022 21:48
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I think Lutra is going to be my go to yeast now. Brewed a Marzen style last week, within 24 hours of the start of fermentation it had dropped almost 40 points. Just kegged it today and it tastes wonderful. I'm excited to see how it is all carbed up.
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Oct 16, 2022 16:16
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Brewed a lager with some leftover Barke Pils and some flaked rye, wheat, barley and oats I found in the cupboard. It got me to 11 °P, at 75% efficiency, which was a little better than I expected. For hops I used 100g of Tettnang added in equal parts at 70, 25 and 0 minutes, which works out to about 35 IBUs. Oxygenated the wort, and discovered that the Pilgrimage yeast I had bought turned out to have been past its best-by date even before I sat on it for a few months, but I had two packets of dried 34/70 that I added instead. Going to try 11 °C for 18 days and then 15 °C or so for 3. Kind of want a Tilt or something like it to see if I could reduce the wait some next time.
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Oct 16, 2022 19:54
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I love having a tilt, I don't trust the numbers it produces but it does give me a good idea of what is happening. Definitely recommend or anything like it.
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Oct 16, 2022 21:41
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I've been happy with my Kegland Pills for less than half the price of a Tilt. You have to get them on Aliexpress though because of Tilt's patents in the US, but it took less than a month to arrive (though it might be longer now with the imminent holiday season).
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Oct 17, 2022 03:57
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I picked up a similar homebrew (both senses of the word) iSpindle, but the problem I've seen with all of the sensors like this is clearing the fermenter and getting to the wifi point. (All of mine fermenters are stainless steel - I'd expect plastic wouldn't have a problem)
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Oct 17, 2022 10:11
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I use stainless as well, and built a tiltbridge that works perfectly. Looks like there are similar projects for the iSpindel, et al.
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Oct 17, 2022 10:35
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I ferment in corny kegs. Could I put a wireless router on top of the fermentation vessel/freezer and get a signal inside the keg?
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Oct 17, 2022 13:07
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That should work. Before I spent money on a glycol setup, I was fermenting in a mini fridge with stainless steel brew buckets. And had no problems getting a signal through all of that to my tiltbridge, which uses bluetooth to transfer data.
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Oct 17, 2022 14:27
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 Welp. So much for my strawberry wine.
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Oct 17, 2022 19:37
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Nice piece of fish posted:
Oof, sorry bout that fiskebit.
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Oct 17, 2022 21:46
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Thanks, my own drat fault though.
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Oct 18, 2022 07:47
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I was thinking of ways to brew lazily, are there any advantages / disadvantages to using dry malt extract with isomerised hop extract for bittering and dry hopping for flavour/aroma (only heating if the extract has trouble dissolving) vs using a pre-hopped liquid extract kit with maybe some dry hops?
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Oct 18, 2022 20:29
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Crack posted:I was thinking of ways to brew lazily, are there any advantages / disadvantages to using dry malt extract with isomerised hop extract for bittering and dry hopping for flavour/aroma (only heating if the extract has trouble dissolving) vs using a pre-hopped liquid extract kit with maybe some dry hops? It would probably be better than the pre-hopped liquid kit, so I'd go ahead and try it. Especially if you're just doing something like a simple pale ale with it.
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Oct 18, 2022 20:35
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Crack posted:I was thinking of ways to brew lazily, are there any advantages / disadvantages to using dry malt extract with isomerised hop extract for bittering and dry hopping for flavour/aroma (only heating if the extract has trouble dissolving) vs using a pre-hopped liquid extract kit with maybe some dry hops? I've done lazy brewing berfore for quite some time. The last beer I made was an extract and I was like.. it tasted good the first time so I'll just do that again. I usually still hop with boiling, as those kits are usually quite a bit higher price than regular ones. I woudn't do like an IPA or super hoppy kit with an extract but No clue if it would turn out okay or not. I also always keep some DME in case I miss my target.
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Oct 18, 2022 21:08
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Crack posted:isomerised hop extract I was under the impression this wasn't really available in homebrew scales. If you know where to get it, please post a link.
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Oct 18, 2022 22:05
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Jo3sh posted:I was under the impression this wasn't really available in homebrew scales. If you know where to get it, please post a link. I've never seen the Hopsteiner isomerized extract anywhere, but Haas' Incognito is a full spectrum extract for whirlpool that you can get in homebrew sizes for Citra and Mosaic from yakimavalleyhops.com Incognito is 5g = 1oz T90 pellets, and it comes in 20g sizes for homebrew, or 1kg with more hop options if you can find a way to talk someone into selling it to you (it's still $250+/kg). It does come with all the AA, and runs about 40% AA, but I can't confirm that they've been isomerized or not. Using it and the CO2 extract for bittering should be pretty easy to try for a wicked hoppy WCIPA.
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Oct 18, 2022 23:03
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Crack posted:I was thinking of ways to brew lazily, are there any advantages / disadvantages to using dry malt extract with isomerised hop extract for bittering and dry hopping for flavour/aroma (only heating if the extract has trouble dissolving) vs using a pre-hopped liquid extract kit with maybe some dry hops? Age is the major factor here. Liquid extracts age worse than dry extracts; pre-hopped ones probably more so. If you get really fresh stuff it might be equivalent; I don't know how good of a job pre-hopped liquid extracts do in regards to oxygen ingress.
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Oct 18, 2022 23:16
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I ended up buying 6kg of DME and one hopped kit to see whether I can tell the difference, although I won't know the age. The extract I got is this but it's a uk brand / store so might not be so helpful. I don't think it would be particularly economical to use in isolation for anything too hoppy, but this order is to experiment with warm fermenting lager with a bunch of different yeasts and it probably won't take much more than a couple of teaspoons to get to lager IBUs. It will feel like cheating though. Another extract question, I like to brew with a lot of honey as I can get it slightly fermented free from a beekeeper. With AG if I use above 20% honey in the grain bill I add it in later for yeast health and also add nutrient for the FANs. What's the equivalent %age with extract?
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Oct 19, 2022 17:34
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Crack posted:I ended up buying 6kg of DME and one hopped kit to see whether I can tell the difference, although I won't know the age. The extract I got is this but it's a uk brand / store so might not be so helpful. I don't think it would be particularly economical to use in isolation for anything too hoppy, but this order is to experiment with warm fermenting lager with a bunch of different yeasts and it probably won't take much more than a couple of teaspoons to get to lager IBUs. It will feel like cheating though. Malt extract doesn’t need anything else. It’s just wort that’s had most/all of the water removed. So you can even skip nutrients with it for most small beers and would treat it as similar to using grain for everything. If you’re also adding honey, then use your normal nutrient schedule. The isomerized hop extract you have will get you to lager bitterness quickly too.
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Oct 19, 2022 18:06
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In a similar vein, my new brew gear has arrived I’m looking to brew a small/lower strength hazy pale ale using DME as my first brew. A couple of the breweries in my area do hazys that are around 2-3% ABV, some of which are kinda watery, but the others actually have a pretty decent mouthfeel that I'd like to try replicate. Is it worth adding in maltodextrin to bring up the body in this sort of style? For an initial 10 L batch I’m currently looking at something like 0.4 kg Light DME, 0.4 kg Wheat DME, 50 g maltodextrin & 50 g oats, for something around 3%, and then dry hopping it like crazy.
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Oct 20, 2022 00:27
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Getting ready to bottle a batch of tripel that's been fermenting for a month. Should I add a package of US-05 for carbonation, or is the yeast probably young and healthy enough to carbonate? Gravity went from 1.077 to 1.008, 8.8% ABV. Planning on letting them bottle condition for months and months so speed is not important. Might just rack to a secondary anyways if the sample still has off-flavours indicative of young beers, or if the gravity has managed to drop further. Rozzbot posted:In a similar vein, my new brew gear has arrived I’m looking to brew a small/lower strength hazy pale ale using DME as my first brew.
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Oct 22, 2022 13:26
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Sashimi posted:Getting ready to bottle a batch of tripel that's been fermenting for a month. Should I add a package of US-05 for carbonation, or is the yeast probably young and healthy enough to carbonate? You will be fine. Racking to secondary is not worth it unless you are doing it under pressure.
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Oct 22, 2022 13:38
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Agreed. Yeast will probably be fine, and you increase chances of oxidation if you rack to secondary. Just bottle it and give it plenty of time. As Belgian styles are carbonated to a higher level, make sure your bottles can stand the higher pressure that will build.
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Oct 22, 2022 13:56
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Cider pressing! I got to try out my cider press this weekend. The design for this rack and cloth press is mostly taken from Claude Jolicoeur's "The New Cider Maker's Handbook," with a few variations here and there. I ended up using a food processor and the grater attachment to grind the apples. And things ended up working pretty well--although I'll definitely be making the scratter from his book before next year. Using the food processor really slowed things down since I had to quarter most apples and constantly empty out the processor. The motorized scratter he has should do about 40 pounds in a few minutes. I bought a mix of apples--cortland, empire, mutsu, northern spy, golden delicious, ida reds--and picked 10-15 pounds of local crabs. Everything got sweated for 2-3 weeks (essentially, you just leave the apples out at room temp and any final starches convert to sugar, they lose some water, and get relatively soft), and I ended up pressing around 210 pounds. My efficiency wasn't the best, so I got around 13.5 gallons that I supplemented with one gallon of fresh pressed cider. I was hoping for closer to 17-18, but the press was trickier to use than I initially expected. There's definitely a learning curve getting the pomace in the cloths properly. I was really happy with my initial numbers. 1.056/7ish original gravity, 3.5pH, and the juice had a decent body. I think the tannins from the crabs really came through. I've got the following batches starting up now. 3 gallons wild 3 gallons WLP775 English Cider yeast 2 gallons Cote Des Blancs 1 gallon Safcider AC4 and then 3 funky gallons all blended with brettanomyces For these I have 1 gallon Wild+WLP648 1 gallon WLP775+WLP648 1 gallon sourdough starter+S-04+WLP648 (With this one I'm hoping to get a real funky sour blend going. I'll see if I can get any lactobacillus from the sourdough to work. Once I shift this to a secondary I'll probably try pitching some wort on the lees to see what happens.) Everything will get moved to a secondary with reduced headspace for about 8 months to year once these get closer to 1.010 or 15.     
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Oct 31, 2022 17:51
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I’m planning on starting up a brett saison tomorrow that I’ll age through the winter—at least 6 months. I plan on co-pitching the rest of the WLP 648 and Lalbrew’s Belle Saison. I’ll end up with grain bill made up of what I’ve got around in keeping with the hodge podge spirit of these farmhouse beers. Probably stick to 10 or 15 ibu with a few late additions and aim for 5ish ABV. The one question I have is about mash temperature. Basically, should I go low or high. I know that normally with a saison you want to shoot for a low mash temp for more fermentable sugars and a drier finish. But since I’m using both a diastaticus yeast and a brett, should I ferment high for more long chain sugars that’ll get broken down over the long ferment I’m planning? Essentially, will a diastatic yeast and a brett work through everything and give me a finish near 1.000 regardless of mash temp?
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Nov 5, 2022 23:41
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I just mash as normal for these things, as you're only planning on 6 months. If you were going spontaneous you'd want to go starchy, but it's not necessary for mixed ferm to be good. I usually just aim for 148 and leave the yeast to turn it into beautiful saison. Don't need to go low on the hops either, there's no lacto in your mix to worry about. I usually won't go lower than 20ibu for this sort of thing, the hop expression will be fairly tame by the time it's ready for packaging. It will keep pushing lower over time too, but it will probably be down to 1.004-1.006 in a week and work down from there.
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Nov 6, 2022 00:50
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Jhet posted:I just mash as normal for these things, as you're only planning on 6 months. If you were going spontaneous you'd want to go starchy, but it's not necessary for mixed ferm to be good. I usually just aim for 148 and leave the yeast to turn it into beautiful saison. Don't need to go low on the hops either, there's no lacto in your mix to worry about. I usually won't go lower than 20ibu for this sort of thing, the hop expression will be fairly tame by the time it's ready for packaging. Nice! Thanks. Looking up spontaneous ferments lead me to turbid mashing. Starch and dextrins are what I didn't realize I needed to search for. Definitely more than I'd like to dig into in the short term, but should be fun to start looking at. Good to know about the hops as well. I'll have to see how long we end up aging it. The initial plan is to age it in a 3 gallon carboy, so we could always bottle up 2 gallons at the start of summer and rack the third into a gallon carboy to continue aging.
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Nov 6, 2022 02:24
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You really don’t want to be turbid mashing for a regular mixed fermentation project. It’s something that’s good for the breadth of microbes taking part in spontaneous ferments that won’t be as useful for a healthy yeast pitch. With a long spon, the turbidity leaves long chains around so they can get used in other metabolic processes that won’t be happening with just Brett B and the French Saison strain. No need to over complicate for this one. Standard process for mash and boil will get you a solid beer here. I do keep bottles around to see how they progress myself, and they’re fun and good for a couple years.
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Nov 6, 2022 02:32
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Yeah, that was my sense as well. I'll keep it simple with this one and then maybe work my way up toward more complicated mixed ferments.
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Nov 6, 2022 02:45
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Boonoo posted:I’m planning on starting up a brett saison tomorrow that I’ll age through the winter—at least 6 months. You don't mention pitching any lactic acid bacteria, in which case 10-15 IBU is quite low for a saison. A saison should be either quite bitter, or you can make it tart. Since you don't seem to be doing the latter I think you would get better results shooting for 30-40 IBUs. I prefer mashing low for saisons, no matter if they have Brett or not. Finishing gravity depends on a ton of factors. Yeast choice, your mash and your grain bill are some of them. Assuming the grain bill is not full of stuff your yeasts can't consume a higher mash temp will most likely just make the ferment take longer. Keep in mind, not all diastaticus yeasts or brett is guaranteed to take even a simple grist down to 1.000.
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Nov 6, 2022 06:12
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