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IncredibleIgloo posted:That is certainly more than I was expecting, but it still lacked the gingerbread or sugarcookie I was hoping to see. Not a "filament", but you can 1000% get a printer that extrudes whatever goop you want. Clay, icing, chocolate, feces, whatever your going for.
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Oct 23, 2022 02:53
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If chocolate filament for my ender existed i would probably just eat most of the roll in between prints
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Oct 23, 2022 03:20
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w00tmonger posted:Not a "filament", but you can 1000% get a printer that extrudes whatever goop you want. Clay, icing, chocolate, feces, whatever your going for. I already have an extruder for feces. 
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Oct 23, 2022 05:27
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Was having a great run of prints with no failures. Like 5 prints in a row, then I took a break from those prints (75mm Loot Studios figures) and decided to do a random assortment of stuff I got from MMF. Some sisters of Battle type warhams, a bunch of odd carnival decorations, some bunny soldiers, etc... Unfortunately almost the whole plate failed. It was kind of an odd failure. On the build plate every item had their base layers print correctly. A large object in the middle, a base for the largest miniature, had peeled off and maybe messed up the whole thing. But the odd thing is about a quarter of the plate had no supports whatsoever after the base layers. What would cause a failure like that? Just perfectly smooth and flat base layers with no sign of the supports ever printing.
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Oct 23, 2022 05:38
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In "well that's weird". I broke my Voron Legacy by putting a zip tie on the pneumatic fitting on the extruder. This... deserves a story. TL;DR: If you change anything between your extruder and your nozzle, you need to re-do your tuning. I bought a used voron legacy. Becuase I was in the process of building my V0, and somehow this guy decided selling it for $400 was.. sane. $470 and a trip to the local Greyhound depot and I had a Legacy. With the coolest Serial (007!) I just.. assumed this thing was ok. And.. for the most part.. it was? But as time has gone by, I have found... things... I ran the tuning tutorials on it, and ended up with a .72 PA value, and around 4mm of retraction. Big numbers.... I was printing some things, and I had gotten chronic layer shifts. Nothing like having your kid tell you "It made that noise again! and the print is going funny." The top belt had grown quite loose. I went and did a re-do of the belts, and figured out why the top belt was riding on the idlers weird. This meant I had to tear apart the hot end. Since I was up there..... I took a good look at the bowden. Since everything else I have, uses spacers to stop the bowden from rocking in the fittings, I decided to throw a zip tie on the extruder bowden. And then all of my prints started failing. ~all of them~. I had huge gaps between fill and walls. So I played with speeds. And retract. I was getting clog symptoms. So I tried higher temps. Tried a really high temp purge. And I tried a new nozzle. I couldn't get it to run right. It hit me.. somewhere along the way, that this was the "bad pressure advance" symptom. So... I started dropping the PA. From .71.. to .5. To .2. to .1. Things kept getting better. I am now a 0.08 PA. And 2mm of retraction. All becuase of a zip tie. Not to mention the half dozen 90% failures on my V0 this week. But that was because I left some settings on it, from when I was TRYING to make it break. Whoops. Enough stupid nero for one week. m.hache posted:Yeah I'm leaning towards this. I guess my major hold up is do I upgrade to the Plus for the larger Bed. I don't think the price jump to the CR series is justified. The biggest thing you can do, is take your time building the printer ~right~. And then spending 4-6 hours doing some real tuning, and setting yourself a filament qualification process. If you want precision, ~knowing your printer, with data~ is the most important thing you can do. I'd put a good profile on a carefully setup ender, and using rafts, versus anything that sells for less than $5000. (And my bench has two vorons on it. So you know I'm not just an ender fan.) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Oct 23, 2022 |
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Oct 23, 2022 06:01
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cruft posted:I already have an extruder for feces. damned thing can't handle poor quality materials, you have to stick to food pro
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Oct 23, 2022 06:07
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So it looks like my problem is most definitely with the supports, I was using the pre-supported models from Dakka Dakka, and they looked well supported but they are amazingly thin. My second print with longer exposure time was 11 of their bases and 6 of them failed and I accidently knocked 3 bases off the supports just removing the build plate. Edit: I just did the supports myself and was able to print a plate of 15 of them with no problem. I think I was a little spoiled doing so much from Loot as their supports, while seeming a little much, really work for me almost 100% of the time. IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 09:00 on Oct 23, 2022 |
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Oct 23, 2022 06:37
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IncredibleIgloo posted:So it looks like my problem is most definitely with the supports, I was using the pre-supported models from Dakka Dakka, and they looked well supported but they are amazingly thin. My second print with longer exposure time was 11 of their bases and 6 of them failed and I accidently knocked 3 bases off the supports just removing the build plate. Pre-supported models are definitely a crapshoot, some makers do them just fine and you can print with confidence. Others basically just slap auto-supports on their stuff and call it a day, and then you either get failures like what you described because they did just the bare minimum, or else they're over-supported monstrosities where it's a nightmare to get the supports removed.
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Oct 23, 2022 14:47
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IncredibleIgloo posted:What are these exotic filaments? Like rubber or something? Vibranium
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Oct 23, 2022 16:49
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Doctor Zero posted:Vibranium Since I just saw Black Adam, I'm going to go with "Eternium".
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Oct 23, 2022 16:51
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Is there anything to be done if the entire right half of the screen on my Mono X has gone dark? I have a spare, but this kinda chaps me. Loose connection, maybe? I'll tear it down either way. Deviant fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Oct 23, 2022 |
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Oct 23, 2022 18:16
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Pre-supported models are definitely a crapshoot, some makers do them just fine and you can print with confidence. Others basically just slap auto-supports on their stuff and call it a day, and then you either get failures like what you described because they did just the bare minimum, or else they're over-supported monstrosities where it's a nightmare to get the supports removed. It is funny because the way I fixed this was just to take the same files, but the unsupported versions, and have chitubox auto-generate the supports, and it worked. Only negative news is that the bases for the models are at an odd 28.5mm or so, not the GW specified 32mm, and scaling up the bases would make the models not fit. Seems like an odd thing when purchasing a proxy unit specifically designed for this.
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Oct 23, 2022 18:27
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God I tried water washable resin and why didn't I do this sooner, gently caress dealing with IPA and all that
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Oct 23, 2022 18:40
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Well I nabbed an S1 plus for the larger build plate. Creality had a direct deal with 3 rolls of pla for under $700 CAD which was great considering Local shops had the same printer at $724+tax.
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Oct 23, 2022 19:09
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queeb posted:God I tried water washable resin and why didn't I do this sooner, gently caress dealing with IPA and all that Here's the thing. Water washable resin tends to be much more fragile, and you still need to dispose of the water that's touched the resin as if it were ipa Hopefully, your not rinsing your minis off in the sink
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Oct 23, 2022 19:15
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I have a stock Prusa Mini+ which works great. My partner wants to buy me an enclosure for my upcoming birthday. I want to do minimal loving around to get it set up properly so I can print ASA (and maybe eventually nylon even though that will be a billion hours of loving around). I'm inclined to just send him a link to the the Prusa-made enclosure and call it a day, but are there any nicer/better options around the same price point?
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Oct 23, 2022 20:49
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I grow a bunch of catnip. And shred it, and give it to friends or sell it. I was getting really tired of using a cheapo weed grinder, so I built this little thing in Fusion. I thought it wasn't going to work, and never got back to revising it, but it turned out it just needed really screwed together well to operate. https://www.printables.com/model/301510-mini-shredder-v1 A wee little shredder 
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Oct 23, 2022 22:28
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CK07 posted:I have a stock Prusa Mini+ which works great. My partner wants to buy me an enclosure for my upcoming birthday. I want to do minimal loving around to get it set up properly so I can print ASA (and maybe eventually nylon even though that will be a billion hours of loving around). I'm inclined to just send him a link to the the Prusa-made enclosure and call it a day, but are there any nicer/better options around the same price point? I’ve been looking at this one: https://www.tukkari.com/p/ts-acrylic-diy-kit-prusa-mini-enclosure Enos Shenk posted:I grow a bunch of catnip. And shred it, and give it to friends or sell it. I was getting really tired of using a cheapo weed grinder, so I built this little thing in Fusion. I thought it wasn't going to work, and never got back to revising it, but it turned out it just needed really screwed together well to operate. Ooh that rules! Makes me want to do the same with Send Cut Sent so I can have a food safe one that I can run through the dishwasher or whatever.
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Oct 23, 2022 23:17
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w00tmonger posted:Here's the thing. Water washable resin tends to be much more fragile, and you still need to dispose of the water that's touched the resin as if it were ipa funnily enough i havent noticed any fragility, and ive printed some intricate stuff, little swords and all that which hold up no problem to a bit of bend and stuff. Maybe its the way i cure them with the anycubic curing station which has some intensly bright UV lights. And yeah for disposal i treat it the same, ill let the resin settle in the sunlight for a week or two, then let the water evaporate and dispose of the leftover resin in the garbage. Its just being able to just fill up my wash station to the brim and put the whole build plate in to rinse is a huuuuge time saver, and way cleaner than prying the models off of the resin covered plate and getting poo poo everywhere. do you guys scrub your models at all while rinsing them like with a toothbrush or something? I get some like, shiny parts on some of my models that look like there was uncured resin on it possibly, looks like you could peel it off except its hardened on there. I havent been giving them a little scrub so maybe just rinsing isnt getting it all off or something. queeb fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Oct 23, 2022 |
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Oct 23, 2022 23:40
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I ended up incorporating a toothbrush scrub-down in to my work flow. I was getting a layer of sticky, funky, crusty stuff on some spots after curing that I'm pretty sure was half-dissolved leftover resin. Now I do an initial "big swish" in my first IPA bath for the larger amount of of resin, then go to my second container of IPA for a rinse-and-scrub with old tooth brushes that I'm done using in my mouth to get them actually feeling clean. Let the IPA dry, cure, good to go.
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Oct 24, 2022 01:46
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bird food bathtub posted:I ended up incorporating a toothbrush scrub-down in to my work flow. I was getting a layer of sticky, funky, crusty stuff on some spots after curing that I'm pretty sure was half-dissolved leftover resin. Now I do an initial "big swish" in my first IPA bath for the larger amount of of resin, then go to my second container of IPA for a rinse-and-scrub with old tooth brushes that I'm done using in my mouth to get them actually feeling clean. Let the IPA dry, cure, good to go. For what it's worth, I find that I get pretty good results even if I don't bother with a brush. The key (at least for me) is just to have at least two wash stages. I dump my whole magnetic build plate into the wash and cure machine and just let it go, which makes that IPA pretty dirty pretty quickly. Then I pull everything off the supports and swish the models around for a few seconds in a post-wash bath. My post-wash stays clean for a long, long time, and I let the dirty IPA stay in the wash and cure machine for a while since everything is getting a second wash anyway. I've done the brush thing, but I find that this mostly works just as well with almost zero extra effort versus a single wash.
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Oct 24, 2022 03:13
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I have a three wash setup. One big huge container that is very dirty that is the first dip, just to get the slimy resin off. Then the second stage dunk to clean even better. And then it goes into the wash machine for 5 minutes. I don't want any resin to leak out of the holes of the stuff since most of the stuff I am making is gifts. Then when the IPA gets dirty it gets placed in the next dirtier stage.
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Oct 24, 2022 04:46
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Enos Shenk posted:I grow a bunch of catnip. And shred it, and give it to friends or sell it. I was getting really tired of using a cheapo weed grinder, so I built this little thing in Fusion. I thought it wasn't going to work, and never got back to revising it, but it turned out it just needed really screwed together well to operate. I love it, I recently started growing catnip and this will make things much easier!
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Oct 24, 2022 04:55
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On a resin printer what would cause the burn in layers, or first layers to print successfully, but then not the supports? I have seen instances where something is pulled from supports, but the supports generally remain. In my case I am having failures where it is just the first 20 or so layers, the raft/skate, but then no supports printing on that. Is it possible somehow the very first layer of the supports is breaking or pulling free? I am printing a lot of very small pieces if that makes a difference?
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Oct 24, 2022 08:56
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Just wanted to reiterate again that Klipper has resurrected my love of printing FDM. Over the weekend, I put it on an Ender 5 that had been giving me grief to the point that I quit using it for a few months. Even without doing any of the fancier stuff like input shaping and whatnot, just doing the basic stuff that you normally would do to set up a printer, it was mostly painless to get up and running and thus far it's been printing pretty much flawlessly (knock on wood). The best part is if I need to make a change to the printer.cfg, I can just go in, edit it, restart the firmware, and it's good to go. By comparison, compiling Marlin used to be such a pain in the rear end sometimes, so this is definitely a welcome change of pace. It's even easy to migrate over to a new machine, I was using a Raspberry Pi initially until I remembered I was going to use that on a different printer, but I had a Windows PC sitting near where the printer currently is, so I just installed Virtualbox on that and am currently running Klipper (via Ubuntu) on a virtual machine that way. Migrating the printer.cfg over couldn't have been easier. I even got KlipperScreen set up to work via wifi on an old mobile phone I don't use any more, just because I could. 
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Oct 24, 2022 13:55
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And the thermistor for my MK3S bed just went during a 24h print. In two days I've had two printers go down. 
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Oct 24, 2022 14:10
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I have a three wash setup. One big huge container that is very dirty that is the first dip, just to get the slimy resin off. Then the second stage dunk to clean even better. And then it goes into the wash machine for 5 minutes. I don't want any resin to leak out of the holes of the stuff since most of the stuff I am making is gifts. Then when the IPA gets dirty it gets placed in the next dirtier stage. This is what I do. And I have found that it really doesn't matter how dirty the first wash gets, as long as it's not a gel or something.
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Oct 24, 2022 14:17
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IncredibleIgloo posted:What are these exotic filaments? Like rubber or something? Not very exotic but I love the iron filled filament I used. Everything I print is magnetic now. well it was until I ran out of the 500g I ordered. edit: magnetic receptive. the print can become magnetic if exposed to a high enough outside magnetic field, but heating destroys the magnetism in the filament. Vaporware fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Oct 24, 2022 |
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Oct 24, 2022 14:56
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I experimented with a bronze filament that was quite fun and pretty, but I never really got a good way to process it to get fancy colours in a practical way. (Or polish it properly.) And my last experiment with it now lives encased in 2 layers of resin because it just stunk of vinegar even after airing out outside for a couple days. (Vinegar and Peroxide, I did get some nice blue and green sheen on it though.)
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Oct 24, 2022 15:25
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I wonder if the vinegar penetrated the plastic pores? Basically you would have to somehow boil it off to get the smell out?
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Oct 24, 2022 15:35
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Vaporware posted:Not very exotic but I love the iron filled filament I used. Everything I print is magnetic now. well it was until I ran out of the 500g I ordered.  Everything you print is ferromagnetic (having the magnetic properties of iron). The print can become magnetized, or turned into a permanent magnet, if exposed to a strong magnetic field.
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Oct 24, 2022 15:40
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Vaporware posted:I wonder if the vinegar penetrated the plastic pores? Basically you would have to somehow boil it off to get the smell out? Yeah probably, my main takeaway from it is really just 'use citric acid or something instead' to avoid the smell. Also to do it with a model with more nooks and crannies, as larger smooth surfaces don't play as well with patination + making salt deposits all over. It was very cool to see the entire thing break over from green to blue the moment some ammonia fumes hit it though.
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Oct 24, 2022 16:30
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Enos Shenk posted:I grow a bunch of catnip. And shred it, and give it to friends or sell it. I was getting really tired of using a cheapo weed grinder, so I built this little thing in Fusion. I thought it wasn't going to work, and never got back to revising it, but it turned out it just needed really screwed together well to operate. Kawaii shredder is my new favorite thing.
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Oct 24, 2022 16:38
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Vaporware posted:Not very exotic but I love the iron filled filament I used. Everything I print is magnetic now. well it was until I ran out of the 500g I ordered. How does that work? Do you need a steel nozzle? If heating destroys the magnetic property. doesn't running the filament through the hot end do that too?
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Oct 24, 2022 17:09
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Presumably you can remagnetize it, at least temporarily.
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Oct 24, 2022 17:11
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Not sure how many resin printer folks are in this thread, but I could use some troubleshooting advice. I'm trying to print some logo coins for a friend, and I'm getting weird cracking and gouges on the surface of the coins. I just replaced the FEP because the old one was pretty worn, it definitely helped the cracking but the gouges are new and pretty deep  50um layer height, 2.5s layer exposure. The ameralabs town prints just fine.
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Oct 24, 2022 17:48
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Winged Orpheus posted:Not sure how many resin printer folks are in this thread, but I could use some troubleshooting advice. I'm trying to print some logo coins for a friend, and I'm getting weird cracking and gouges on the surface of the coins. I just replaced the FEP because the old one was pretty worn, it definitely helped the cracking but the gouges are new and pretty deep You'll likely get better advice in the Tabletop 3d printing thread
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Oct 24, 2022 17:52
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I am an amateur 3d printer. I've had an Ender 3 Max for around 2 or so years. Printing on it regularly a couple weeks out of every month about. I've replaced the hot end fan a while back as it developed a rattle. My blower fans are starting to show the same sign so I was looking for replacements. Does anyone have particular recommendations for these? I don't need whisper quiet as the machine is in a room used only for things like that. I just want a reliable model/brand to look for. I haven't actually observed any print issues yet but with the noise I assume it's only a matter of time.
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Oct 24, 2022 17:53
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I'd just google for replacements...but they may just need to be cleaned?
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Oct 24, 2022 17:56
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I'd just google for replacements...but they may just need to be cleaned? Cleaning had honestly not occurred to me. I'll take a look next time it's idle. Trying to finish some Halloween prep this week.
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Oct 24, 2022 18:17
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