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Question for those of you who have early consumer resin printers as well as later models - Is there a noticeable difference in print quality from the newer machines? I've got a pair of old Anycubic Photons who still work just fine, and I'm wondering if upgrading is worth it or until I should just keep using these things until they break down.
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Oct 19, 2022 16:51
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Geisladisk posted:Question for those of you who have early consumer resin printers as well as later models - Is there a noticeable difference in print quality from the newer machines? I've got a pair of old Anycubic Photons who still work just fine, and I'm wondering if upgrading is worth it or until I should just keep using these things until they break down. Qualitys about the same between my mars and mars 2. Biggest thing is print time and replacement costs. Going to a mono screen is a massive leap in minimizing print time. Also, less UV exposure per layer means your screen won't get damaged as quickly. I still don't think it's worth going to the latest and greatest if you have mono screens though. 8k seems like a pretty minor improvement tbh, and I'm waiting on some advanced tech. Saturn 2 has some interesting stuff, but honestly only effects weirdos like be running a business.
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Oct 19, 2022 21:09
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Saucerman Studio's new Kickstarter is live, anyone have any insight into this? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/saucermenstudios/beamdown-terrain-designer Kind of looks like inexpensive, lightweight Houdini aimed at the 3D printing audience. I'm leaning toward skipping this Kickstarter myself, mostly because I've already printed a ton of stuff from previous Saucerman Kickstarters and don't really have room or need for more wargaming terrain at this point.
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Oct 19, 2022 22:45
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w00tmonger posted:Qualitys about the same between my mars and mars 2. Biggest thing is print time and replacement costs. Most peoples eyes aren't good enough to tell the difference between 4k and 8k on the table. If you look at models closer than that a lot or like taking pictures of your models then it's a different story.
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Oct 20, 2022 00:16
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Alright, I've got an FDM printer on the way; the Sovol SV06:
Any printing tips for specific terrain & vehicle types/styles that I won't have any issues with?
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Oct 20, 2022 00:57
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Toebone posted:What’s everyone’s go-to resin for minis these days? I got a bunch of Anycubic Basic Grey for half price and it’s fine for bigger stuff, but it’s too brittle for tiny detailed things You're not overcuring, right? I use Anycubic Basic Grey as my main resin and my primary use case is 6mm stuff and rarely if ever anything larger than standard 28mm models. I find it's pretty durable, especially since a huge number of the minis I print end up just getting tossed around in tackle boxes without protection.
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Oct 20, 2022 09:04
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Ego Trip posted:Most peoples eyes aren't good enough to tell the difference between 4k and 8k on the table. This. I have gone 8k because I want my customer’s first look at my minis to be as clean as possible. But honestly, once you slap primer and paint on them, there’s no way you’d be able to tell the difference.
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Oct 20, 2022 17:36
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The only place I can tell a difference on my prints is if you get a smooth gentle dome shape that happens to be at just the right angle to require layer lines graduating up and down the smooth surface, and even then I have to be like six inches away under specific light conditions looking directly for it. Anything resembling normal usage it's impossible.
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Oct 20, 2022 18:07
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bird food bathtub posted:The only place I can tell a difference on my prints is if you get a smooth gentle dome shape that happens to be at just the right angle to require layer lines graduating up and down the smooth surface, and even then I have to be like six inches away under specific light conditions looking directly for it. Anything resembling normal usage it's impossible. But does 8k really have an effect on layer lines? I would think that layer height would have a bigger impact, and as far as I know (I could be wrong) 8k printers don't have any smaller layer height than 4k printers.
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Oct 20, 2022 18:53
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That new anycubic DLP looks like it's pretty snazzy as far as smoothness of prints go. But even my 4k makes me happy, so I don't see a need.
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Oct 20, 2022 20:11
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Bucnasti posted:But does 8k really have an effect on layer lines? I would think that layer height would have a bigger impact, and as far as I know (I could be wrong) 8k printers don't have any smaller layer height than 4k printers. It makes them crisper. 5k, 6k, 8k has nothing to do with resolution or layer height, but it does make each pixel cleaner and sharper. In my tests, if you hand someone two minis, one 2k, and one 8k they usually (like 75-85% of the time) will say the 8k looks better, but if you ask them why (or don't whip out a magnifying glass), they can't say. "It just does." is what I always hear. Kind of like an eye test where one option is a little sharer, but both are still blurry. I tried to do comparison pics, but it doesn't really translate through pics, so you'd have to do your own taste tests to confirm.
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Oct 20, 2022 21:32
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I still print things on my original Sonic Mini (not even 4k!) along with my Mini 8k and while I can tell the difference immediately off the bed, I'd struggle a ton to notice the difference on a painted model without extremely bright lighting and sticking my face right into the model.
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Oct 21, 2022 01:45
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A bit adjacent but is there a thread for 3d modelling itself? Occasionally I bounce off blender trying to learn some digital kitbashing, this time I want to straight up learn to make my own stuff.
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Oct 24, 2022 02:46
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Eediot Jedi posted:A bit adjacent but is there a thread for 3d modelling itself? Occasionally I bounce off blender trying to learn some digital kitbashing, this time I want to straight up learn to make my own stuff. There's a CAD thread and a 3DCG thread which are both somewhat what you want. The first one is more about making models that may be more accurately translated into the real world while the second is about doing computer graphics for visual stuff. I think the overlap is that a program like Blender is meant more for the latter but often gets used for the former if someone doesn't know how to use CAD software or wants to make something more artistic than as an item with specific dimensions.
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Oct 24, 2022 03:20
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Thank ya.
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Oct 24, 2022 09:29
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Scipiotik posted:That new anycubic DLP looks like it's pretty snazzy as far as smoothness of prints go. But even my 4k makes me happy, so I don't see a need. 100% agree. I'm excited for the new DLP machines and the coolness that level of accuracy brings, but my now $200 mars 3 produces really nice mini's for me that have received zero complaints about detail or anything else
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Oct 24, 2022 14:40
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My longest print has finished. This is 4 pieces, took roughly 100 hours From here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-dark-realms-elven-scenery-guard-tower-116029
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Oct 24, 2022 15:18
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What is the right term(s) on MyMinFactory or wherever to search for to find models that are like a Necormunda / Stargrave box in that there are 10 bodies, and then a bunch of arms & weapon options? I play Necromunda and would love to find proxy models for gangs (or even just Orlock at the moment) but since your gang changes semi-frequently as people upgrade gear and people die and new recruits join etc. buying files with set weapons is something I'd like to avoid. Or if anyone knows of a creator that off those, that would be great too!
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Oct 24, 2022 21:29
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Lumpy posted:What is the right term(s) on MyMinFactory or wherever to search for to find models that are like a Necormunda / Stargrave box in that there are 10 bodies, and then a bunch of arms & weapon options? I play Necromunda and would love to find proxy models for gangs (or even just Orlock at the moment) but since your gang changes semi-frequently as people upgrade gear and people die and new recruits join etc. buying files with set weapons is something I'd like to avoid. Or if anyone knows of a creator that off those, that would be great too! I'd first try including the word 'modular' in your searches.
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Oct 24, 2022 22:00
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Lumpy posted:What is the right term(s) on MyMinFactory or wherever to search for to find models that are like a Necormunda / Stargrave box in that there are 10 bodies, and then a bunch of arms & weapon options? I play Necromunda and would love to find proxy models for gangs (or even just Orlock at the moment) but since your gang changes semi-frequently as people upgrade gear and people die and new recruits join etc. buying files with set weapons is something I'd like to avoid. Or if anyone knows of a creator that off those, that would be great too! The terms I think you'd want to search for is "modular" or "multi-part", there's a fair few makers on MMF and Cults3D that do multi-part kits. For NM-specific stuff, there's Monstrous Encounters (they have some proxies for Orlocks, Arbites/Enforcers, and I think the Ash Wastes gangers as well), Ghamak (some Escher proxies, though be advised that their stuff veers more into the big tiddy pinup model realm, so might not be to your liking), and I know there's a few others but their names escape me at the moment.
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Oct 24, 2022 22:06
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Anvil Digital Forge is pretty great, and I think they're on MMF
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Oct 24, 2022 22:13
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Searching for "gang" got a few promising results in mmf. It looked like modular wasn't getting used consistently and brings up loads of terrain. On cults and thingiverse, searching for builder or kit was a good one.
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Oct 24, 2022 22:16
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moths posted:Anvil Digital Forge is pretty great, and I think they're on MMF OOOh, thank you (and everyone else!) this seems prefect since most bits fit across all their sci-fi ranges. I should probably actually get my printer set up first though....
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Oct 24, 2022 22:53
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Does anyone here have any experience with Lord of the Print off of MMF? I am printing out holiday gifts and a friend really likes LotR so I have this Nazghoul on a Dragon model STL I picked up from them. I am not an expert printer but I was looking at their "pre-supported" option and it looked like it would assuradely fail. There was no raft or bottom part of the supports, no wide base. Just the vertical portions. Looked like a guaranteed failure. Or am I supposed to add the base only? I am printing out part of it right now with my own supports to see how things go. Also, does anyone have any experience with DakkaDakkaStore? To this point I have only been printing large stuff, like 75mm figures from loot, but I am trying to print off a plate of their jumpack sisters. My first issue is that they seem small, and the bases they came with are 28.5mm, which is odd because the actual models go on 32mm I think, and the STL was released 4 months ago, so the base size is not a hold over from a previous edition. Second, I rarely print small stuff so I dont have a lot of experience, but is there a specific way I should be making the rafts? Like one big raft for a bunch of arms/heads, or does each component get it's own raft? My print also failed in an odd way, the raft showed up, but no supports past the raft. It was a little odd. Does anyone have any experience with that? I have had really good luck printing stuff in bigger scale, so I think I have some of the basics of printing covered.
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Oct 24, 2022 22:55
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Does anyone here have any experience with Lord of the Print off of MMF? I am printing out holiday gifts and a friend really likes LotR so I have this Nazghoul on a Dragon model STL I picked up from them. I am not an expert printer but I was looking at their "pre-supported" option and it looked like it would assuradely fail. There was no raft or bottom part of the supports, no wide base. Just the vertical portions. Looked like a guaranteed failure. Or am I supposed to add the base only? I am printing out part of it right now with my own supports to see how things go. I recently signed them on as a vendor and haven’t printed anything yet. However, the tags on their miniatures are labeled “28mm”. Really, that doesn’t tell you much because 28mm D&D minis are smaller than 28mm GW minis. technically 40k is 28mm scale, but if you have any experience with them, you know that their mini sizes are inconsistent at best (old rhinos anyone?) 28.5 mm base doesn’t sound too horrible, and base sizes aren’t indicative of scale. I’ll throw some of the not-sisters in Lychee next to some things so we can compare.
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Oct 24, 2022 23:38
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Doctor Zero posted:I recently signed them on as a vendor and haven’t printed anything yet. However, the tags on their miniatures are labeled “28mm”. Really, that doesn’t tell you much because 28mm D&D minis are smaller than 28mm GW minis. technically 40k is 28mm scale, but if you have any experience with them, you know that their mini sizes are inconsistent at best (old rhinos anyone?) Ok, I think my reference point might be really, really skewed because lately all I have been painting are Primaris marines in 40k and Orcs/Chaos Warriors in AoS. I took the dakkadakka jump sister and compared her to an old chatacan and she is slightly taller but on par with the chatacan. I think the Primaris scale is messing with my mind. That being said I am flummoxed that I can print big pieces easier than smaller pieces.
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Oct 25, 2022 00:12
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moths posted:Anvil Digital Forge is pretty great, and I think they're on MMF Yeah Anvil Digital has modular cyberpunk and post-apoc sets that would be good for necromunda, and I think they have some more coming in the next couple months that will expand that area. I really like the Anvil sets because they're mostly compatible with each other so you have have hazmat-trenchwarfare-monsterhunter mashups if you want.
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Oct 25, 2022 01:38
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One of the NM-style makers on MMF I just remembered is Tagged Events, they're doing their own thing called "House Bharteth" and I'd say a lot of their stuff could be used as proxies for some of the main factions in NM.
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Oct 25, 2022 03:29
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moths posted:Anvil Digital Forge is pretty great, and I think they're on MMF Yeah, Anvil Digital Forge is really, really good. One thing I'll add is to that you can try just searching for individual model parts, too. Arms, legs, heads, whatever. You can usually scale things to work well enough, and you'd be surprised how easy it is to use digital kitbashing to make things work together, even if they're pretty wildly incompatible.
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Oct 25, 2022 12:22
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On a resin printer will over-exposure have a negative impact on supports? I originally thought it would not, as the more exposure the stronger the supports would become, but someone in a different group I cannot remember said that over-exposure can cause the supports to sometimes stick to the FEP and fail. Is that accurate? Is that what I am seeing if I see a group of closely located supports with a flat horizontal break?
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Oct 25, 2022 13:36
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IncredibleIgloo posted:On a resin printer will over-exposure have a negative impact on supports? I originally thought it would not, as the more exposure the stronger the supports would become, but someone in a different group I cannot remember said that over-exposure can cause the supports to sometimes stick to the FEP and fail. Is that accurate? Is that what I am seeing if I see a group of closely located supports with a flat horizontal break? Not sure about causing them to stick to the FEP, but over-exposure can definitely cause supports to become a lot tougher...to remove from your model without causing pockmarks. 
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Oct 25, 2022 14:45
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Ok, I think my reference point might be really, really skewed because lately all I have been painting are Primaris marines in 40k and Orcs/Chaos Warriors in AoS. I took the dakkadakka jump sister and compared her to an old chatacan and she is slightly taller but on par with the chatacan. I think the Primaris scale is messing with my mind. That being said I am flummoxed that I can print big pieces easier than smaller pieces. Okay, the Dakka Dakka stuff looks pretty good to me. The model on the far right is NOT Dakka Dakka, and is my is 40k sized test model.  
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Oct 25, 2022 15:03
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Just trying to thread the logic needle of if over exposing supports makes them stick to the fep, how would burn in layers not also stick? Nah, under exposing causes far more support failures, unless you are over exposing by huge amounts, or using cheap poo poo resin. Why supports just stop could be many reasons, but if it was brittleness, I'd expect to see the supports snapping later, not sticking to the fep. Like they start fine, printed past the point it will later break at, then breaks in two when it can't support the weight. You would see fully formed supports either loose in the vat or stuck elsewhere to the print.
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Oct 25, 2022 15:05
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Does anyone here have any experience with Lord of the Print off of MMF? I am printing out holiday gifts and a friend really likes LotR so I have this Nazghoul on a Dragon model STL I picked up from them. I am not an expert printer but I was looking at their "pre-supported" option and it looked like it would assuradely fail. There was no raft or bottom part of the supports, no wide base. Just the vertical portions. Looked like a guaranteed failure. Or am I supposed to add the base only? I am printing out part of it right now with my own supports to see how things go. I had something like this happen once - It turned out that my slicer had randomly made the bottom 2mm invisible. Do you think something like that is going on?
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Oct 25, 2022 15:44
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moths posted:I had something like this happen once - It turned out that my slicer had randomly made the bottom 2mm invisible. Do you think something like that is going on? That is interesting. I just got home from the night shift and I had a 12 hour print of a display piece base print just great. So now I am going to go and try to print a plate of small things and see what happens if I keep the settings the exact same. I did just upgrade chitubox. I will give a report after I wake up if my carnival food models come out good.
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Oct 25, 2022 16:01
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So my carnival plate came out mixed. The settings were just perfect for detail, so I am happy about that. But now there were failures on one quadrant of the plate. The rafts never appeared. Removing the rafts from the plate was more difficult the further away I went from the failed corner, and became easier as I approached the failed corner. I assume this means my plate got out of level, so I went ahead and releveld it. I must be doing something when removing the models to slightly jar the plate. Which I could see happening because I had too high of a first layer exposure for a bit and the pieces were really tough to remove. Perhaps I should tighten the plate screws even more than I do, but I already get them pretty darn tight. I will get my carnival games and food printed eventually and show you all and you will enjoy it 
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Oct 26, 2022 00:36
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Something is up if you're knocking your plate out of level while taking prints off. I really go nuts sometimes and I've never experienced that, so you definitely might want to make sure it's really tightened down. If it keeps being a problem maybe invest in a magnetic flex plate?
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Oct 26, 2022 03:39
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Paradoxish posted:Something is up if you're knocking your plate out of level while taking prints off. I really go nuts sometimes and I've never experienced that, so you definitely might want to make sure it's really tightened down. That is a great idea. Maybe I am just not tightening it enough when I am leveling it. I may have knocked it pretty drat hard to get some minis off when I had a few prints with too high of a burn in layer time. I am really, really enjoying 3d printing on a resin printer and I am really, really happy with what I am printing. The only downside is that I seemed to master just about 75mm figures from Loot studios and can get those perfect almost every time, but other things I have less success rate with, but I am still having fun. I purchased the printer to run off a bunch of warhams and 40k armies and then fell in love with the bigger stuff. Now, oddly enough, the hardest thing for me to print well is the small little warhams stuff. I am surprised at how cheap it is to print that stuff though!
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Oct 26, 2022 04:27
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IncredibleIgloo posted:That is a great idea. Maybe I am just not tightening it enough when I am leveling it. I may have knocked it pretty drat hard to get some minis off when I had a few prints with too high of a burn in layer time. I noticed on my mono 4k that the print bed had 2 screws under the the hook thing that attaches to the lifting mechanism, those were both loose, once I tightened them it reduced my failures to zero. any slop in the print head seems like it has the potential to cause failures. Resin printing is essentially magic. Now to catch up on the 80 or so minis I need to print.
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Oct 26, 2022 15:17
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Has anyone ever hosed with putting some thread locker blue on the screws when you level your bed?
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Oct 26, 2022 16:04
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