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vanilla slimfast posted:Thanks for responding. Can you clarify why I’d want to disable local dimming in a work context? I’m not super well versed on the newer tech So, normally an LCD has a fully uniform backlight (usually several lights calibrated to be the same brightness at all times). Local dimming does away with this and makes it so different parts of the backlight are dimmer than others depending on the type of content on the screen. This dimming happens based on backlight zones. A single zone on the Odyssey Neo G7 is responsible for illuminating 7000 pixels. If some of those pixels are meant to be very bright but others are meant to be very dark, it will still keep the zone illuminated for the bright pixels. If the next zone over is all black pixels, then that backlight zone will be very dim or disabled entirely. What you will see when this happens is a brightness gradient from the bright part of the image to the dark part, called blooming. See my post above yours about this. In general content, it's not really noticeable, but when looking at, say, white text on a black background, you will see some blooming around the text. It's not that strong since the panel has good native contrast anyway, but it may still be annoying or distracting. For that reason, I will turn off local dimming on my monitor when using dark mode. If everything you do is done with bright windows and such, then I guess it won't particularly matter either way. But my broader point was that the whole reason the Neo G7/G8 are so expensive is due to their local dimming feature, and if you're not gonna take advantage of that for the most part, then you may be better off buying something cheaper. But if you do want the other 10% of time spent gaming/movie watching/whatever to look as nice as possible, then it's a good monitor for that. Here's a video that will probably explain what local dimming does much better than me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V2VPzI0fzM (and then they did another comparing the Neo G7 to the an OLED TV—funkymonks may be interested in this) I think I wasn't very clear with what I was saying about high-end samsung monitors, but basically the Odyssey G6 and better is what I count as high-end because they use Samsung's superior VA panel technology, while their G5 and lower monitors use panels from third-parties that are way worse in quality. The upcoming G8 ultra wide uses an OLED panel actually. I'm sure it will be quite good, but it will only be 3440 x 1440 in resolution.
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# ? Oct 24, 2022 06:42 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 04:07 |
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42” C2 is on sale at Amazon and BB for $1000 again and the G7 is discounted from Samsung so I just did the responsible thing and ordered both.
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# ? Oct 24, 2022 17:10 |
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Good timing! Reminder that you can save an additional $200 through Samsung's education discount program with seemingly no verification, bringing the Neo G7's price down to $900. https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/gaming/32-odyssey-neo-g7-4k-uhd-165hz-1ms-curved-gaming-monitor-ls32bg752nnxgo/
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# ? Oct 25, 2022 00:17 |
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now I am wondering what it would be like to have a 48" 4k, with another 48" 4k stacked vertically next to it.
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# ? Oct 25, 2022 10:41 |
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Sounds like that would be painful to use. I almost jumped on that 42" C2, but even with a 36" deep desk that still seems too big for daily use to me. I can't even imagine trying to work with a 48" screen, much less two.
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# ? Oct 25, 2022 12:48 |
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Enos Cabell posted:Sounds like that would be painful to use. I almost jumped on that 42" C2, but even with a 36" deep desk that still seems too big for daily use to me. I can't even imagine trying to work with a 48" screen, much less two. I'm doing it at the moment, if I hate it I'll find a way to have my 34" ultrawide telescope down in front of it. the 48" rules for gaming. I am only slightly more than arms length but I have long arms.
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# ? Oct 25, 2022 14:52 |
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Enos Cabell posted:Sounds like that would be painful to use. I almost jumped on that 42" C2, but even with a 36" deep desk that still seems too big for daily use to me. I can't even imagine trying to work with a 48" screen, much less two. The thing to remember with oversized displays is that you just can't use fullscreen windows. 48" isn't any bigger than my triple monitor setup.
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# ? Oct 25, 2022 21:05 |
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https://tftcentral.co.uk/news/philips-launch-evnia-gaming-monitor-brand-including-34-qd-oled-42-oled-and-34-mini-led-models
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# ? Oct 26, 2022 16:08 |
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xgalaxy posted:https://tftcentral.co.uk/news/philips-launch-evnia-gaming-monitor-brand-including-34-qd-oled-42-oled-and-34-mini-led-models
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# ? Oct 26, 2022 17:06 |
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micro-led is the self-emissive one the density currently sucks so it's not coming to monitors any time soon, the smallest 4K display produced so far with that tech is like 90"
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# ? Oct 26, 2022 17:13 |
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i'll just wait for led-c
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# ? Oct 26, 2022 17:17 |
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xgalaxy posted:https://tftcentral.co.uk/news/philips-launch-evnia-gaming-monitor-brand-including-34-qd-oled-42-oled-and-34-mini-led-models Hahaha the QD is £600 more than the Alienware and gains only the AmbiHue leds. Not even DP2.0
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# ? Oct 26, 2022 17:57 |
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I'm going to have to shell out a grand+ for a 1440p OLED won't I?
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# ? Oct 26, 2022 18:39 |
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I bought a Dell SE3223Q to go with my M1 MacBook Pro. https://www.dell.com/en-uk/shop/dell-32-4k-uhd-monitor-se3223q/apd/210-begy/monitors-monitor-accessories Having used it for a few weeks I'm rather unimpressed by its dark mode performance with the blacks sometimes being flickery when I'm switching windows/tabs in dark mode. That shouldn't happen right? It's a 32" 4k VA 60Hz panel. They've accepted a return so I'll be sending it back and then hopefully a decent offer will come up for Black Friday (I'm in the UK). Half tempting to try a 32" 1440p high refresh instead. It's mainly for office use with the hope the refresh rate will fix the blacks.
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# ? Oct 26, 2022 21:36 |
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Lockback posted:I'm going to have to shell out a grand+ for a 1440p OLED won't I? I'm expecting the first 16:9 ones to launch at $800 or something but then they'll have $500 ones within a year, and hopefully oled will reach a high enough of a manufacturing volume to get us back down to $300 or under within a couple years. The good news is that LCD prices will probably continue to plummet. Sad Panda posted:I bought a Dell SE3223Q to go with my M1 MacBook Pro. What exactly do you mean by flickering? VA panels are known to smear blacks/dark colors when they're moving, but it's not quite like a flickering effect. In any case, I would not expect a higher refresh rate to have an effect, but a different model might handle that better anyway.
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# ? Oct 27, 2022 00:13 |
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Anyone here with a M32Q (or presumably 27Q, 32U, etc.) who can confirm that you can't turn the monitor off if there's no signal? When I turn my computer off every function of the joystick becomes input selection. Not a huge deal since as far as I can tell the only difference between off and sleep is the blinking LED but it's a bit odd to me that there wouldn't some way to turn it off.
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# ? Oct 28, 2022 04:02 |
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So I am happy with the gigabyte aorus FO48U BUT -- after 40-50 hours of use... "panel usage time" says 1 hour (I've seen it go as high as 4, but never over that), and the "ACPS" option which is supposed to be available after 4 hours of use is just grayed out. I have a ticket open with Gigabyte but they told me 1-3 days for a response, meanwhile I am still comfortably within Newegg's friendly return window, and I wonder if I should just ask them to swap this out for another unit for me. If there's anything else to try besides the firmware updater that anyone knows of, let me know.
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# ? Oct 28, 2022 13:15 |
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The Cooler Master GP27U and GP27Q have emerged on Amazon at some pretty competitive prices: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Z6HV9LF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B45GPTM3/ They're both 27" IPS displays with 576-zone miniLED backlights and HDR1000 certification (advertised peak of 1200 nits). The 4K model is $800 and the 1440p model is $500 currently, though they both are technically discounted from higher MSRPs (even though they're brand new). They also have fine-tunable overdrive settings (from 0 to 100) and KVM switches. These are much cheaper than other "true HDR" monitors with similar specs. A 1440p miniLED monitor from AOC came out late last year for over a thousand british pounds and is hard to find in north america, so $500 is quite competitive. That's about the price you currently pay for 240Hz 1440p panels and was the price you paid for premium LG IPS displays until this year, basically, so this could be a considerable step up in image quality for the price. The 4K monitor has more competition. Sony's Inzone M9 is $800 - $900, though that one has significantly fewer dimming zones. If you want 576 zones or more, you're paying over $1000 usually, so $800 is a pretty good deal in that regard. Paying a couple hundred dollars more than the M28U can be justifiable if it means getting a high-quality HDR experience. The issue is that there are no good reviews available for these yet, and some other IPS displays with miniLED backlights have really struggled with response times in the past. If these live up to the feature set though, then they could become good "midrange HDR" picks. Especially that $500 1440p option. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Oct 28, 2022 |
# ? Oct 28, 2022 13:59 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The Cooler Master GP27U and GP27Q have emerged on Amazon at some pretty competitive prices: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Z6HV9LF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B45GPTM3/ I thought I read somewhere that these disable local dimming if you put it in its fastest response time.
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# ? Oct 28, 2022 15:06 |
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Cabbages and Kings posted:So I am happy with the gigabyte aorus FO48U BUT -- after 40-50 hours of use... "panel usage time" says 1 hour (I've seen it go as high as 4, but never over that), and the "ACPS" option which is supposed to be available after 4 hours of use is just grayed out. Is ACPS a pixel shifting or refreshing feature similar to the C1/A80J's panel? My A80J clicks and does some behind the scenes stuff after some use, but only if the display has been on for a certain period of time. Perhaps ACPS can only be used after the monitor has been running for 4 hours and it is not based on total display on time? I can't even find ACPS as a term in relation to Gigabyte's displays.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 00:14 |
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Bloodplay it again posted:Is ACPS a pixel shifting or refreshing feature similar to the C1/A80J's panel? My A80J clicks and does some behind the scenes stuff after some use, but only if the display has been on for a certain period of time. Perhaps ACPS can only be used after the monitor has been running for 4 hours and it is not based on total display on time? I can't even find ACPS as a term in relation to Gigabyte's displays. sorry, it's APCS, and yes it's a pixel refresh. some people online reported issues with the panel usage time that made it sound like it ought to be cumulative, and not session-based. i have reached out to gigabyte support for clarification since I don't want to go through the hassle of exchanging a working panel unless it has a problem. the monitor's own documentation mentions a 4 hour and 1500 hour counter but doesn't really make it clear what's what. and the driver update software has several misspellings...
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 01:07 |
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If you're never seeing the counter past 4 then presumably it's doing it's thing and resetting.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 01:43 |
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Cabbages and Kings posted:sorry, it's APCS, and yes it's a pixel refresh. some people online reported issues with the panel usage time that made it sound like it ought to be cumulative, and not session-based. What they call APCS is session-based. For every 4 hrs of usage, the next time you turn it off or it goes in standby mode, it will run. It doesn't take too long and you will probably hear a soft click when it begins and ends. What they label AOCS is the cumulative one. Every 1,500 hrs of panel on time, it will run AOCS and it takes about an hour. You should not need to do either one manually.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 05:56 |
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Is that OLED tech for burn-in management? I’m ok with whatever acrobatics a panel needs to run if I can safely leave IPS behind on my next purchase.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 05:59 |
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Yeah, this kind of tech has been in OLED panels for a few years now at least. Burn-in can still happen depending on how abusive you are with the monitor, with some reports of LG OLEDs burning in within 6 months in abusive office-like usage (e.g. multiple windows split across the screen in the same spot for many hours a day every day). The only report of the AW3423DW burning in I've seen so far has been from someone whose unit's screen refresher wasn't properly going off (the same kind of thing as APCS). And it was caused by split windows again. You really should not be doing split windows like this on OLEDs, it seems. If you want multiple windows open at once, have them floating on the screen instead of locked into corners, and move them into slightly different positions each time. Or... just don't use them for anything other than media consumption/gaming since they really aren't designed for anything else.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 06:14 |
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So if I have a nice OLED in the centre and go from desktop browsing to gaming and back, and keep some IPS displays on the flanks, that context switch on the OLED is enough to stop the Windows logo from burning into the corner? I have 3x1 IPS right now, but before I bought the third it was IPS-VA-IPS and the colour difference drove me loving batty.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 06:25 |
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Sad Panda posted:I bought a Dell SE3223Q to go with my M1 MacBook Pro. MacOS scales weirdly on lower resolution displays and I'd definitely try it out with a 1440p display before buying if that's what you end up doing. My macbook pro doesn't look great on my dell ultrawide. I'd definitely get a 4k (or 5k) display if I needed one to use with a mac.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 07:20 |
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Shumagorath posted:So if I have a nice OLED in the centre and go from desktop browsing to gaming and back, and keep some IPS displays on the flanks, that context switch on the OLED is enough to stop the Windows logo from burning into the corner? I think it would depend on the ratio of desktop browsing to gaming. In general, mixing in a good amount of media consumption with general computer usage should go a long way toward preventing burn-in of static elements. But the best way to protect your display is to try to eliminate the presence of static elements entirely by doing stuff like auto-hiding your taskbar. Pixel shifter technology should also help here, but it's annoying on LG and Samsung OLED panels because they'll essentially shift parts of the image off screen, sometimes clipping off details on the edge of some windows. I think JOLED does pixel overprovisioning on their desktop monitor panels (e.g. LG 27EP950) so no part of the image gets clipped off as it moves around, but nobody else seems to do this. edit: vvv I stand corrected. That's good, then. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Oct 29, 2022 |
# ? Oct 29, 2022 07:24 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Pixel shifter technology should also help here, but it's annoying on LG and Samsung OLED panels because they'll essentially shift parts of the image off screen, sometimes clipping off details on the edge of some windows. I think JOLED does pixel overprovisioning on their desktop monitor panels (e.g. LG 27EP950) so no part of the image gets clipped off as it moves around, but nobody else seems to do this. The AW3423DW is over provisioned too, so won't loose anything during a shift. I'd assume that's true of any monitor using the Samsung panel.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 10:14 |
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edit: wrong thread
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 11:54 |
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Bloodplay it again posted:What they call APCS is session-based. For every 4 hrs of usage, the next time you turn it off or it goes in standby mode, it will run. It doesn't take too long and you will probably hear a soft click when it begins and ends. thanks a lot! Now happy this is working as described then. The thing that led me down this path, was seeing some minor grid patterning when the monitor was brand new. I didn't need to do a pixel refresh, though, just looping full screen HDR content in Vivid settings for 4 hrs fixed that up.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 13:35 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Yeah, this kind of tech has been in OLED panels for a few years now at least. Burn-in can still happen depending on how abusive you are with the monitor, with some reports of LG OLEDs burning in within 6 months in abusive office-like usage (e.g. multiple windows split across the screen in the same spot for many hours a day every day). The only report of the AW3423DW burning in I've seen so far has been from someone whose unit's screen refresher wasn't properly going off (the same kind of thing as APCS). And it was caused by split windows again. You really should not be doing split windows like this on OLEDs, it seems. If you want multiple windows open at once, have them floating on the screen instead of locked into corners, and move them into slightly different positions each time. Or... just don't use them for anything other than media consumption/gaming since they really aren't designed for anything else. I tend to move poo poo around my screen a lot anyway, resize IDEs based on what I am working on. But, I've gone to dynamic wallpapers etc too, just to help.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 13:37 |
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Shipon posted:Local dimming looks real bad on anything that isn't a movie or cutscene - glaring portions of the screen that are brighter than others while doing any sort of productivity work. Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:So, normally an LCD has a fully uniform backlight (usually several lights calibrated to be the same brightness at all times). Local dimming does away with this and makes it so different parts of the backlight are dimmer than others depending on the type of content on the screen. This dimming happens based on backlight zones. A single zone on the Odyssey Neo G7 is responsible for illuminating 7000 pixels. If some of those pixels are meant to be very bright but others are meant to be very dark, it will still keep the zone illuminated for the bright pixels. If the next zone over is all black pixels, then that backlight zone will be very dim or disabled entirely. What you will see when this happens is a brightness gradient from the bright part of the image to the dark part, called blooming. See my post above yours about this. In general content, it's not really noticeable, but when looking at, say, white text on a black background, you will see some blooming around the text. It's not that strong since the panel has good native contrast anyway, but it may still be annoying or distracting. For that reason, I will turn off local dimming on my monitor when using dark mode. If everything you do is done with bright windows and such, then I guess it won't particularly matter either way. But my broader point was that the whole reason the Neo G7/G8 are so expensive is due to their local dimming feature, and if you're not gonna take advantage of that for the most part, then you may be better off buying something cheaper. But if you do want the other 10% of time spent gaming/movie watching/whatever to look as nice as possible, then it's a good monitor for that. Here's a video that will probably explain what local dimming does much better than me: Thanks, this is super helpful and has given me more to think about. How easy/difficult is it to turn on/off local dimming? If that's the trade-off to get the best of both worlds, I think I could live with that. Because like you said, it seems like there really aren't any other options specifically that are curved panels at 4K. Going to a different 1440p monitor would be a sidegrade at best vanilla slimfast fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 29, 2022 |
# ? Oct 29, 2022 17:11 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Yeah, this kind of tech has been in OLED panels for a few years now at least. Burn-in can still happen depending on how abusive you are with the monitor, with some reports of LG OLEDs burning in within 6 months in abusive office-like usage (e.g. multiple windows split across the screen in the same spot for many hours a day every day). The only report of the AW3423DW burning in I've seen so far has been from someone whose unit's screen refresher wasn't properly going off (the same kind of thing as APCS). And it was caused by split windows again. You really should not be doing split windows like this on OLEDs, it seems. If you want multiple windows open at once, have them floating on the screen instead of locked into corners, and move them into slightly different positions each time. Or... just don't use them for anything other than media consumption/gaming since they really aren't designed for anything else. So you’re saying to have a screen per window, got it
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 19:38 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I think it would depend on the ratio of desktop browsing to gaming. In general, mixing in a good amount of media consumption with general computer usage should go a long way toward preventing burn-in of static elements. But the best way to protect your display is to try to eliminate the presence of static elements entirely by doing stuff like auto-hiding your taskbar. Yeah my 48" C1 definitely moves things off panel when pixel shifting, for example auto-hiding the taskbar leaves a 2 pixel high line across the bottom which will disappear when the pixel shift happens. I suspect it's a 5-pixel shift but I don't really give a poo poo enough to find out for sure. Because I use this for mostly work, I have compromised on a few things for the sake of burn-in prevention, like auto-hiding the task bar and having just a black background instead of some glorious wallpaper. But I'm considering just saying gently caress it and using and enjoying it to the max and whatever happens with burn-in happens.
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# ? Oct 29, 2022 23:51 |
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Yeah I’m sorry but I don’t think OLED is nice enough to forego my rotation of Manhattan wallpapers
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# ? Oct 30, 2022 02:27 |
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I used to live in Manhattan and my view sucked; I’d go with the OLED
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# ? Oct 30, 2022 05:52 |
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I just set up a LG C2 42 for PC and PS5 and it's amazing
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# ? Oct 30, 2022 08:07 |
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I've had this super weird problem since I got my new M32Q; when reading text on white or light grey background, it looks like the text is creating tiny artefacty lines: (See how, in the middle of the image, there are brighter white lines around the top and bottom the "i") This pretty much only happens in browsers but it happens in all of them (Chrome, Firefox and Edge) and only on this monitor. I've tried changing settings (HDR, OD, OC, etc.) and different DP cables to no avail. Anyone know if this is coming from the monitor or if it could be something else?
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# ? Oct 30, 2022 21:57 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 04:07 |
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Try dropping refresh rate to 144 or 120 and seeing if that helps. Also, make sure it moves when you scroll the text. What's the GPU?
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# ? Oct 31, 2022 01:16 |