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unlimited shrimp
Aug 30, 2008
We have a popcorn ceiling that also has sparkles in it for some inexplicable reason. And it's not white, it's a very light grey, which didn't become obvious until we picked a lighter wall color and did some test spots.

We were quoted $8000.00 to have it scraped and mudded, which is way beyond our budget. I've read that drywalling over it would be the cheapest option but I was wondering if using a paint sprayer to paint it would work.
... Or if that's a crazy-high quote and I should talk to someone else.

It'd be about 1000sqft that needs scraped.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



We call that a “hollywood” popcorn ceiling.

Painting over it will make it look like cottage cheese with bonus bits raining down on you at random forever after. The glitter is sprayed on before the popcorn dries, so it’s super-loose.

Your choices:

- scrape it down
- 3/8” drywall over it
- live with it.

One of my favorite claims was a rowhome in East Falls that had hollywood blown everywhere. Walls, ceilings, switch & outlet covers; trims and baseboards. It was amazing.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Oct 29, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I got some bali wood mini-blinds for my patio door and they've worked really well. they have a bunch of different colors and free samples, as well as custom sizing.

unlimited shrimp
Aug 30, 2008
Our old house had nice blinds and they made me appreciate how much they can add to a room. It's like wood vs laminate flooring -- if time is on your side, it's worth it to take the extra time to save up for real wood.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



nwin posted:

Selectblinds.com

Great experience and easy to install.

Never pay full price. They routinely have 35-50% sales.

Sirotan posted:

Gonna quote myself from a ways back:

Also did some price comparisons a ways back on a particular shade at various sites:

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3770037&pagenumber=122&perpage=40&userid=0#post502325702

Thanks! It's soon to be weekend window measuring time shortly followed by beep booping at the computer on these sites.

Justa Dandelion
Nov 27, 2020

[sobbing] Look at the circles under my eyes. I haven't slept in weeks!

Seconding select blinds. We have their stuff in a few of our windows

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug
I have some squirrel abatement questions. I have a detached garage where the end of a soffit has rotted out. The PO put a piece of wood over it but didn't attach it really and put it on rotting wall so it just... fell out, thanks guys. A family of bushy bastards are using the eaves as their home. What I would like to do is spay something they will hate, and then put an excluder or just cover it up so they won't be able to get back in.

My questions are, what is a good deterrent? and does anyone know of an excluder one way door that will cover a 6" by 9" hole (I can make it smaller, but that's what I am starting with)?

When we moved into the house there was a squirrel family in our attic and I was able to go up there in the day time when they were outside scare them out and seal the vent they were coming through, but since I don't live in the outside building, I wouldn't want to inadvertantly trap a little bastard in there and then starve it in the walls.

BAE OF PIGS
Nov 28, 2016

Tup
We're closing on a house next Thursday. We have our rental through the end of the month so we're going to paint and replace the flooring before we are moved in. It's fairly dated on the inside, but structurally very sound with no major issues. It was built in 1972 and is in about the condition you would expect. It has popcorn ceiling that my wife and MIL had been insistent we remove right away, however due to the age of the house, it most likely has asbestos in it. It seems that there isn't anyone that can get it removed quickly or affordably, so we're probably just going to have to live with it for the time being.

The previous owners were seemingly older with a gazillion grandkids, because there are a million holes in the wall where pictures were obviously hung. Before we start ripping all the carpet out, we're going to paint all the walls. I've been watching YouTube videos on how to patch holes and blend the patch to match the texture of the walls, but was wondering if there are any tips or tricks that any of you can recommend.

The pictures are just screenshots from Zillow, so the detail isn't the best but gives an idea of the current state of the wall.

Once the painting is complete, we're going to rip up the carpet and lay down some LVP (probably).





Alternatively, thoughts on skim coating the whole house?

BAE OF PIGS fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Oct 30, 2022

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
If the house is empty and you don't care about the flooring I'd hire a pro painter. It'll cost you a couple $K but they'll be done in like three days.

I'd also ask the seller if you can do an information only asbestos test. It's guaranteed to be positive, and if it's not a good painting company could scrape it all down for you.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
Isn't painting going to be an issue with asbestos also? And potential contamination in the house from where they were disturbing it to hang pictures etc?

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

What on earth happened to those beams? Is that decorative gouging?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Vim Fuego posted:

What on earth happened to those beams? Is that decorative gouging?

It's a level 2 rune of protection and offers +35% magic resist.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

unlimited shrimp posted:

We have a popcorn ceiling that also has sparkles in it for some inexplicable reason. And it's not white, it's a very light grey, which didn't become obvious until we picked a lighter wall color and did some test spots.

We were quoted $8000.00 to have it scraped and mudded, which is way beyond our budget. I've read that drywalling over it would be the cheapest option but I was wondering if using a paint sprayer to paint it would work.
... Or if that's a crazy-high quote and I should talk to someone else.

It'd be about 1000sqft that needs scraped.

1000 sqft is about 35 sheets, ~$50/sheet is about $2000 plus about $1000 for paint + painters. Maybe a couple hundred to install quarter round or other small Moul ding to cover the edges where the ceiling meets the wall

Those prices are on the high side for my market but I wanted to stay conservative. So unless you can’t afford to lose the 5/8” of ceiling height, it’s a no brainer for me

BAE OF PIGS posted:

We're closing on a house next Thursday. We have our rental through the end of the month so we're going to paint and replace the flooring before we are moved in. It's fairly dated on the inside, but structurally very sound with no major issues. It was built in 1972 and is in about the condition you would expect. It has popcorn ceiling that my wife and MIL had been insistent we remove right away, however due to the age of the house, it most likely has asbestos in it. It seems that there isn't anyone that can get it removed quickly or affordably, so we're probably just going to have to live with it for the time being.

The previous owners were seemingly older with a gazillion grandkids, because there are a million holes in the wall where pictures were obviously hung. Before we start ripping all the carpet out, we're going to paint all the walls. I've been watching YouTube videos on how to patch holes and blend the patch to match the texture of the walls, but was wondering if there are any tips or tricks that any of you can recommend.

The pictures are just screenshots from Zillow, so the detail isn't the best but gives an idea of the current state of the wall.

Once the painting is complete, we're going to rip up the carpet and lay down some LVP (probably).





Alternatively, thoughts on skim coating the whole house?

Patching textured walls is Gonna look like crap, I’d slap new drywall over the walls with lots of damage and be done w it

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


BAE OF PIGS posted:

We're closing on a house next Thursday. We have our rental through the end of the month so we're going to paint and replace the flooring before we are moved in. It's fairly dated on the inside, but structurally very sound with no major issues. It was built in 1972 and is in about the condition you would expect. It has popcorn ceiling that my wife and MIL had been insistent we remove right away, however due to the age of the house, it most likely has asbestos in it. It seems that there isn't anyone that can get it removed quickly or affordably, so we're probably just going to have to live with it for the time being.

The previous owners were seemingly older with a gazillion grandkids, because there are a million holes in the wall where pictures were obviously hung. Before we start ripping all the carpet out, we're going to paint all the walls. I've been watching YouTube videos on how to patch holes and blend the patch to match the texture of the walls, but was wondering if there are any tips or tricks that any of you can recommend.

The pictures are just screenshots from Zillow, so the detail isn't the best but gives an idea of the current state of the wall.

Once the painting is complete, we're going to rip up the carpet and lay down some LVP (probably).





Alternatively, thoughts on skim coating the whole house?

Those holes all look small enough that you can probably just put spackle in them. The texture will probably help hide them. Covering the popcorn with thin drywall is usually the thread-recommended option vs. scraping, but idk if that's cost prohibitive or not.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
Not sure how I never noticed this in the 3 years I've been here, but the springs for my garage door are not parallel with the door track:


It's similar on the other side, the springs are bolted into the ceiling joists a few inches above and to the left/right respectively (wherever direction is to the outside) of the track.

Is this ok? I mean... The opener when I moved in lasted about a year and I replaced it, but it definitely was fairly old, and the new one seems to be doing fine...bit I don't really have a way of knowing it it's prematurely aging itself by doing more work because the springs are off.

Just wanted to get some second opinions if I should try to move the spring to be in at least one plane of the door track?

DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Oct 30, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

It's fine.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I feel like garage door springs are one of those things that lay firmly in the "don't gently caress with them if you're not sure how they should work" category.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

DrBouvenstein posted:

Not sure how I never noticed this in the 3 years I've been here, but the springs for my garage door are not parallel with the door track:


It's similar on the other side, the springs are bolted into the ceiling joists a few inches above and to the left/right respectively (wherever direction is to the outside) of the track.

Is this ok? I mean... The opener when I moved in lasted about a year and I replaced it, but it definitely was fairly old, and the new one seems to be doing fine...bit I don't really have a way of knowing it it's prematurely aging itself by doing more work because the springs are off.

Just wanted to get some second opinions if I should try to move the spring to be in at least one plane of the door track?

Wow, did you bother to move the safety sensor off the ceiling? The brackets left over are weird!

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Motronic posted:

It's fine.

Thanks.

Danhenge posted:

I feel like garage door springs are one of those things that lay firmly in the "don't gently caress with them if you're not sure how they should work" category.

I've always been under the impression that's mostly regarding torsion springs. Extension springs are 100% safe when the garage door is up (or if they've already broke and released all tension... Though obviously if that tension is released while you're near it, that could be bad news), but it's not nearly the danger torsion springs have.


devicenull posted:

Wow, did you bother to move the safety sensor off the ceiling? The brackets left over are weird!

I did, no worries there. I can't explain why I didn't remove the brackets before now other than "I'm an ADHD idiot and my brain forgot." They're gone now.

No clue why the PO put them there...other then I guess he was even lazier then me? Heh.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

DrBouvenstein posted:

I did, no worries there. I can't explain why I didn't remove the brackets before now other than "I'm an ADHD idiot and my brain forgot." They're gone now.

No clue why the PO put them there...other then I guess he was even lazier then me? Heh.

That's where mine are currently installed.... no kids or pets, and I like being able to hit the button and run under the door

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

DrBouvenstein posted:

I've always been under the impression that's mostly regarding torsion springs. Extension springs are 100% safe when the garage door is up

You are 100% correct.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

DrBouvenstein posted:

Thanks.

I've always been under the impression that's mostly regarding torsion springs. Extension springs are 100% safe when the garage door is up (or if they've already broke and released all tension... Though obviously if that tension is released while you're near it, that could be bad news), but it's not nearly the danger torsion springs have.

Well i clearly can't tell them apart so I'll continue not to gently caress with them.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


actionjackson posted:

oh man that sucks. i'll give it a try. is there any way to prevent this in the future except for switching to another surface type?

Give all the soup to me it sounds delicious

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

lol the wayfair dunking

i'm glad someone gave an estimate of how long ikea and wayfair stuff is expected to last (five years)

https://archive.ph/qjU4P

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

actionjackson posted:

lol the wayfair dunking

i'm glad someone gave an estimate of how long ikea and wayfair stuff is expected to last (five years)

https://archive.ph/qjU4P



I mean, they're not wrong. Cheap furniture is, well, cheap and falls apart. God knows I've seen many sub-ikea grade bookshelves (think the poo poo you buy at target) crumble into sawdust and tears under the load of a grad student's library. But those cost anywhere from a quarter to a tenth of what an actual nice bookshelf costs, which is why there's a market. Sam Vimes, boots, etc.

edit: on a personal note, if you're a broke student and truly give no fucks about aesthetics Home Depot is your friend. Cinder blocks are about $3 each and 1x4's are pretty inexpensive. Ugly as gently caress but it will get the job done and lasts effectively forever, at least until you get a fiancee who cares enough to make you get rid of them. At least it was my solution after yet another lovely bookshelf fell into tatters.



But goddamn the people in that article saying poo poo like this:

quote:

“I relate to fast furniture like I do to fast food,” Ms. McDonagh said. “It’s empty of culture, and it’s not carrying any history with it.”

need to gently caress right off. No poo poo, low priced crap churned out to meet the demands of the cash-strapped doesn't prioritize whatever you think makes something carry culture and history. A broke rear end student buying a $30 bookshelf for their slumlord hovel is barely concerned with the color, much less making a statement about culture. News flash: the minimum age earning person scarfing a McDonald's hamburger before their next shift also doesn't give a gently caress about the culinary merits of the Big Mac, they just want some fast calories and a full belly.

Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Oct 31, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I'm 6'2 ~210lbs and until recently I've only ever had Ikea furniture and beds and everything else. I've never had anything fail or break, except for once when I stupidly stood on a 2x2" wooden endpiece of a bed trying to reach a ceiling light. I bought a big expensive sectional this year and it's not something Ikea even offers, but if they did I bet it would last also. Taking stuff apart and putting it back together of course weakens the structure of something and these fast furniture pieces are probably disassembled more than other furniture, which I feel contributes to their reputation as shorter-living.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

VelociBacon posted:

I'm 6'2 ~210lbs and until recently I've only ever had Ikea furniture and beds and everything else. I've never had anything fail or break, except for once when I stupidly stood on a 2x2" wooden endpiece of a bed trying to reach a ceiling light. I bought a big expensive sectional this year and it's not something Ikea even offers, but if they did I bet it would last also. Taking stuff apart and putting it back together of course weakens the structure of something and these fast furniture pieces are probably disassembled more than other furniture, which I feel contributes to their reputation as shorter-living.

Real furniture that is meant to be disassembled holds up to it just fine. My wife got a bedroom set from her parents when she graduated college over 20 years ago. That's the bed that came with when we moved in together (my bachelor setup of bare assed mattress directly on the floor was relocated to a curb) and we're still using it 8 moves later. It's got plenty of dings and scuff marks, but the places where the frame and the headboard etc. tie into each other are all fine.

Meanwhile, yeah, disassemble a flat-pack desk at your own peril.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I have some Ikea pieces that I've had for 15 years and they're just fine. That also includes 5+ moves. Walmart particle board just has fallen apart on me, but Ikea stuff specifically has been pretty great.

If you really want to piss off folks who balk at low-cost goods/food/media, talk about how culture exists outside of individuals' artistic tastes and are worth categorizing, and as such Ikea furniture and McDonald's hamburgers are both touchstones of western culture.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Cyrano4747 posted:


But goddamn the people in that article saying poo poo like this:

need to gently caress right off. No poo poo, low priced crap churned out to meet the demands of the cash-strapped doesn't prioritize whatever you think makes something carry culture and history. A broke rear end student buying a $30 bookshelf for their slumlord hovel is barely concerned with the color, much less making a statement about culture. News flash: the minimum age earning person scarfing a McDonald's hamburger before their next shift also doesn't give a gently caress about the culinary merits of the Big Mac, they just want some fast calories and a full belly.

yes I agree, what annoyed me is when I was actually getting nice furniture, and comments like "you could have just gone to ikea" and claiming there was no difference. obviously I'm fortunate enough to be in an economic position where I could afford the items I did.

I do remember before I got into modern furniture, I had all ikea and target stuff. the way some of that stuff would bend under the smallest amount of weight was amazing.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



IKEA is a world leader in furniture building using plywood for a reason, their processes are good and the stuff is solid for what it is. Personally I love IKEA but I would never mistake it for real quality, nor do I want to spend real quality furniture money on things I buy there. If money were no object then sure, but the value of IKEA is crazy good. They’re value geniuses! Though prices have gone up significantly over the past year or two.

I just picked up a Lisabo table and Lisabo chairs for my main kitchen setup and am super happy with it. The equivalent non-flat pack choices at that price range were super crappy, and an heirloom option would have been thousands of dollars more.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Inner Light posted:

IKEA is a world leader in furniture building using plywood for a reason, their processes are good and the stuff is solid for what it is. Personally I love IKEA but I would never mistake it for real quality, nor do I want to spend real quality furniture money on things I buy there. If money were no object then sure, but the value of IKEA is crazy good. They’re value geniuses! Though prices have gone up significantly over the past year or two.

did you mean to type plywood? I usually only see plywood on higher end stuff. the ikea stuff I had was pine and particle board

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



actionjackson posted:

did you mean to type plywood? I usually only see plywood on higher end stuff. the ikea stuff I had was pine and particle board

Maybe both, I’m not sure! I think my Lisabo stuff is plywood, it’s formed veneers and solid wood, no particleboard listed in the materials section. Very impressively built for the price. But yeah you have to check on each item what they’re using.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

If you leave the wood for the plywood in the machine too long you have to make particleboard with it OP

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Ikea certainly sells solid wood furniture, but also particle board. You have to pay attention.

Never seen plywood, but I'd believe they have it.

actionjackson posted:

yes I agree, what annoyed me is when I was actually getting nice furniture, and comments like "you could have just gone to ikea" and claiming there was no difference. obviously I'm fortunate enough to be in an economic position where I could afford the items I did.

I do remember before I got into modern furniture, I had all ikea and target stuff. the way some of that stuff would bend under the smallest amount of weight was amazing.

"Why would I pay $1,000 for a solid wood Amish built table? This table from Ikea is $300 and does literally the same thing!"

(later): "I paid $300 for this Ikea table and it broke after 10 years! What a piece of poo poo, how come nobody builds quality furniture anymore?"

(later still): "Hell yeah, this table is $200 at Wal-Mart, now I can replace that overpriced Ikea garbage!"

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

My very basic understanding is that plywood is a way of making a wood product using veneers

in terms of quality

particle board
OSB
MDF
plywood
HDF (???)

the only modern furniture I see done with plywood is some of the older stuff, like that stupid eames recliner that's everywhere, the Eames plywood chair, some of the Hans Wegner stuff, etc.

most of what I see, and what I have is MDF with a thick veneer (commonly walnut or oak). you can tell right away because it's heavy as gently caress

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Honestly ikea's solid wood furniture is some of their worst in my experience. I'm pretty sure they're using sub-home depot grade pine and it just comes apart, usually at the joints in my experience. I had to quickly furnish an apartment in Berlin twelve years ago and the pine chair I got from them failed catastrophically right before I left. Rear right leg just came right off, dumped my rear end on the floor. They always end up feeling loose after a few months too.

edit: all of this as of ~5 years ago, maybe they've upped their wood game since then.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Here's a closeup so you can see what I mean, they're layers of veneer which I call plywood, but that may not be correct. IKEA just calls them veneers.



The Lisabo table, however, does have particleboard in the innard layers. But the outer parts are veneer.

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lisabo-chair-ash-00457235/
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lisabo-table-ash-veneer-70294339/

(The materials section is in the Details area lower on the page, but it can be a bit cryptic)

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

What I'd love to see is Ikea going all in on plastic. I'm imagining an ikea chair kit but instead of lovely pine it's trex, like you'd use on a deck. I imagine they could make something like that that would survive the gooniest of asses.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Cyrano4747 posted:

Honestly ikea's solid wood furniture is some of their worst in my experience. I'm pretty sure they're using sub-home depot grade pine and it just comes apart, usually at the joints in my experience. I had to quickly furnish an apartment in Berlin twelve years ago and the pine chair I got from them failed catastrophically right before I left. Rear right leg just came right off, dumped my rear end on the floor. They always end up feeling loose after a few months too.

edit: all of this as of ~5 years ago, maybe they've upped their wood game since then.

I've heard pine is pretty much the lowest quality wood, that and rubberwood. it definitely keeps the price down. i have a couple side tables where just the legs are rubberwood, which made them a bit more affordable for me. but obviously it's not something you are putting much weight on at all so it doesn't matter

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Oct 31, 2022

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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

actionjackson posted:

I've heard pine is pretty much the lowest quality wood, that and rubberwood. it definitely keeps the price down

Not all pine. My understanding is that the crap we see today is all fast-growth stuff where they're trying to minimize the turn-around between planting and harvesting, which leads to lovely wood that's not dense enough.

Actual hardwood pine is supposed to be great, but good luck finding any of that unless you're cutting in a national forest or have a time machine dialed in for the 1940s.

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