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ImplicitAssembler posted:But at a significant cost in speed. That's curious. Where did you pick that up? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQh1aNwr4Aw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6XRs-g6ngw&t=14s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdVZZ4i2dS8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYuiAdOH-vI&t=402s
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Oct 30, 2022 06:32
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Nerobro posted:Anyone here building a BabyBelt? I'm about 50% done with mine. This is a real cool project. I love constraints-driven design like this. Post pics!
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Oct 30, 2022 10:10
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Jesus I have 90% of that BOM just sitting here in my parts bin Hmmmmm
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Oct 30, 2022 12:46
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Finally finished this Atomic Dragon print. This took, forever  Full Album here https://imgur.com/gallery/t4RBolE
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Oct 30, 2022 14:43
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mattfl posted:Finally finished this Atomic Dragon print. No photos of him under UV light? Shameful.
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Oct 30, 2022 15:18
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mattfl posted:Finally finished this Atomic Dragon print. That came out great! I've been sitting on that one for a while myself, maybe it's finally time to start printing. I love the fluorescent idea and may end up copying you outright on that, just with a different color or two.
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Oct 30, 2022 16:59
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Nerobro posted:That's curious. Where did you pick that up? Vez and PurpleFilamentEater are both direct drive, and i think 247 is too.
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Oct 30, 2022 17:59
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Hey, I found myself wanting a 3d printer and not knowing what else to do with a bunch of Amazon UK vouchers I got through work over a couple years. I have up to £800 / $900 in credit there to work with. I mostly want to print sci fi and fantasy stuff for painting. I see Elegoo Mars 3 recommended as a good entry level which is about £400... but I've noticed stuff my friends have printed for me on theirs always has lines which get worse when painting and applying washes etc. So having done a bit of research I'm considering dropping the full 800 on an Anycubic Photon D2, as I want to avoid getting models with obvious lines on them as much as possible. Only thing stopping me is thinking its reckless to buy a top end tool when I'm only starting, and that maybe my friends settings on their Mars 3s were just bad. But on the other hand, having this 800 available from the vouchers is kind of a one off windfall.. I can't buy the cheaper one and then upgrade to the D2 later without investing cash I don't have. Should I try see if I can do better with the Mars 3 than my friends and keep half my Bezos bucks for something else? Or blow my wad on the DLP printer if very tiny lines / details are my biggest concern?
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Oct 30, 2022 23:04
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:Should I try see if I can do better with the Mars 3 than my friends and keep half my Bezos bucks for something else? Or blow my wad on the DLP printer if very tiny lines / details are my biggest concern? So I don't actually own a resin printer but I did a ton of research, someone can correct me if I'm wrong: Yes, the DLP printer is going to give higher quality But also No, you do not need one for unnoticeable layer lines. The main difference is DLP printers tend to have sharper, more precise details. So first off layer lines are just going to happen, and on resin printers the only thing that effects that is layer height. If you are Going Fast that fancy DLP printer will have layer lines just as fat as any other resin printer. IIRC 30 micron layer heights, which every modern resin printer can do, are nearly invisible to the human eye. It's also slow as gently caress to print, which is probably why the layer lines on your friend's prints are so visible, cause they probably wanted to make it a fast job. But like, if you are going to use a magnifying glass or shove it right under your eye every 3D printer in existence is going to show layer lines.
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Oct 30, 2022 23:28
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To circle back to the "why do people keep sharing unprintable STLs", I'm seeking a little guidance on how to best prepare some relatively old scans of museum pieces. This statue is the one I am fiddling around with right now. What skill set do I need to sharpen to make this more FDM-ready? I know that the tree supports will be a bitch, but I am willing to give it a go. I love these Roman and Greek statues and would love to print several, so I might as well get to learning. edit: and if there is a more modern library of classical sculpture STLs that are massaged for FDM, even for pay, please let me know. Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Oct 31, 2022 |
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Oct 31, 2022 00:07
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insta posted:Vez and PurpleFilamentEater are both direct drive, and i think 247 is too. You're right. When I poke around it's about 50/50 depending on what month of speedboats we're looking at. Roundboy posted:Jesus I have 90% of that BOM just sitting here in my parts bin That's one of the things that got me going there. $1.50 swatch of fabric, $5 roll of tape, $2 package of construction paper, $4 in steel rod.. The bolts, if you can find them, might be the most expensive bits here? That said, figuring out "how" to print the parts, has been it's own adventure. Lots of weird overhangs. and lots of circular holes that are printed inilne with the plane of the bed, which ~want~ supports, but there isn't a good way to support the supports.
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Oct 31, 2022 00:34
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:Hey, I found myself wanting a 3d printer and not knowing what else to do with a bunch of Amazon UK vouchers I got through work over a couple years. I have up to £800 / $900 in credit there to work with. Do your pals not prime their poo poo? If you prime the models I guarantee the layer lines won’t be noticeable assuming you print at a reasonable later height like between 50um to 30um. The only time you might have a problem is if you try to print something with huge smooth surfaces like spheres or something, but even then 30um will be fine.
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Oct 31, 2022 03:12
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Nerobro posted:That's curious. Where did you pick that up? Simply because you need to run a lot less retraction on a DD.
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Oct 31, 2022 03:19
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Does anyone know what the deal is with Polymaker's Polyterra PLA, like how is it different from regular PLA?
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Oct 31, 2022 03:26
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:
I don't think a DLP printer is going to do what you want it to do. Depending on your level of perfectionism, you're either going to still be disappointed in the result (it will have layer lines) or you just won't notice the layer lines, in which case you'll have spent a lot of money for something that a <$200 printer can achieve. There's a lot you can do in resin printing to minimize the appearance of layer lines, from orienting models differently to running at a shorter layer height. Jumping up to DLP or even just jumping between LCD resolutions isn't going to do it. DLP printers are cool, they just don't solve the problem you're worried about.
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Oct 31, 2022 05:12
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Doctor Zero posted:Do your pals not prime their poo poo? If you prime the models I guarantee the layer lines won’t be noticeable assuming you print at a reasonable later height like between 50um to 30um. The only time you might have a problem is if you try to print something with huge smooth surfaces like spheres or something, but even then 30um will be fine. It might be telling but from the prints I've seen in person, I did not understand what people meant by "priming will cover the lines", presuming you mean paint primer. I got all the minis unprimed and primed them myself and it made no difference to the lines I could clearly see across flat areas. As good primer should do in my understanding, it conforms thinly to every detail and shouldn't clog any lines if applied right. One particular model that was mostly good except the face had some of these hellraiser lines down it I tried giving it a day or 2 in an overturned jar with acetone in the bottom to try soften them as I read about but it didn't do much. I'd love to ask them about their settings without sounding like an ungrateful swine and/or a bragging about my Amazon bucks, so here I am. I'll definitely try do a bit more research since DLP doesnt sound like the silver bullet I hoped, I just dont want to blow this opportunity and end up with something that cant do what I want no matter how it's adjusted.
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Oct 31, 2022 09:41
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:It might be telling but from the prints I've seen in person, I did not understand what people meant by "priming will cover the lines", presuming you mean paint primer. I got all the minis unprimed and primed them myself and it made no difference to the lines I could clearly see across flat areas. As good primer should do in my understanding, it conforms thinly to every detail and shouldn't clog any lines if applied right. Acetone smoothing is for FDM printed parts that were printed with ABS filament plastic, not resin. I think you're a little confused about just the basics. I'd post pictures of what you're concerned about if you want better feedback about "is that normal." There's a ton of resources about resin printing for miniatures online and it's not even a hobby I do. Check out this kind of basic video about what the process is like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lvo61p1UVCQ Here's a video where Danny (3d printed tabletop) talks to a professional commission painter about painting. He did it at a show while painting so the audio isn't perfect but it kind of covers some advice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWq5j_KSQI There's probably better videos than those but they're from some channels I watch. There's also a 3d Printing for the Tabletop thread right here on SA where you can probably find some goons who have specific advice as well.
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Oct 31, 2022 10:11
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That's fair, and thank for the resources I'll definitely look through some more before pulling the trigger. Here is one of a 40K gateway that came out very well imo, but it still has some lines needing buffed out and is like 16cm tall. Edges are defined well at this scale.  Here is an infantry sized guy from the same printer though and tbh on reflection he is actually not lined up that badly in most spots. But the issue a lot of the contours are not defined very well at all. I understand DLP could do better for these models with a lot of small edges?  (Sorry btw, these are just what's available from phone memory, I cant take any better atm) The models that had particularly bad lines (that I tried to soften with acetone to no effect and now I know why, thanks) were from a different printer in green translucent resin longer ago, I dont have pics handy but I suppose I was conflating the experience in my head! Tiocfaidh Yar Ma fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Oct 31, 2022 |
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Oct 31, 2022 10:46
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That top picture is an ender 3, a FDM printer, not resin. That's likely why you see lines. So weird issue: the bed adherence on this S1 plus is so good I can't get my purge lines off between prints. May have to back it off 0.1 on the z-step but my base layers look great otherwise. m.hache fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Oct 31, 2022 |
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Oct 31, 2022 12:54
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:That's fair, and thank for the resources I'll definitely look through some more before pulling the trigger. The first big thing to understand here is that you are comparing apples and automobile transmissions. What you have pictured there is a filament printer. (Angry hot glue gun that melts plastic and lays it down in lines) What you are looking at purchasing is a resin printer. (Tank of goo that gets selectively cured by a UV lamp) These are *WILDLY* different printers with hugely different outcomes and processes. That big honkin' gateway and other large models like it? There's a fair chance a given resin printer model cannot physically fit large stuff on the build plate, where filament printer build plates at anything beyond the entry level el-cheapo Ender 3 are measured in stonkin' huge volumes. The layer lines you're probably seeing are likely from a filament printer. Unless you have superhuman vision or a magnifying glass and some specific circumstances the layer lines on a resin printer are imperceptible. edit: On closer viewing, I believe the infantry-looking model may be a resin printed sculpt? If so you will have both outcomes on hand to look at for comparison. bird food bathtub fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Oct 31, 2022 |
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Oct 31, 2022 13:26
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Marsupial Ape posted:To circle back to the "why do people keep sharing unprintable STLs", I'm seeking a little guidance on how to best prepare some relatively old scans of museum pieces. That is a significantly more FDM-friendly object than most tabletop minis. I don't think the model needs any work beyond normal slicer configuration. I just spent like half an hour messing with it in cura, and I see two ways to tackle that one. The path of least resistance is to just let tree supports do the thing. this will probably come out ~ok at a cost of some support scars on the face and tiddies:  Alternatively, you could angle it so the detailed areas are as vertical as possible, still using tree supports. This moves the support flotilla to the butt/arms/back which are much easier to smooth out post print, at a cost of more plastic  and since I already sliced that silly thing, this looks like a worthwhile giggle to pretend like I've got a resin printer for a bit
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Oct 31, 2022 14:09
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Not sure if that eldar is a bad print or bad clean or something but it looks pretty rough for a resin print. I have a mono X and get amazing detail out of it, i just did these earlier:   and they were at .05, so you could go even more detailed if you wanted.
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Oct 31, 2022 14:37
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:That's fair, and thank for the resources I'll definitely look through some more before pulling the trigger. That gateway looks extremely nice, especially in contrast with the spaghetti brim it's sitting on. If it works, it works, but i have concerns about that print bed..
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Oct 31, 2022 14:51
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Javid posted:That gateway looks extremely nice, especially in contrast with the spaghetti brim it's sitting on. If it works, it works, but i have concerns about that print bed.. Yeah I think someone put glue stick (a lot of it) on top of carborundum glass. I haven't had to do that for PLA at all.
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Oct 31, 2022 14:53
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m.hache posted:That top picture is an ender 3, a FDM printer, not resin. That's likely why you see lines. Put down a line of glue stick where the purge line goes down. Makes it much easier to remove, especially important w petg + smooth pei.
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Oct 31, 2022 15:11
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queeb posted:Not sure if that eldar is a bad print or bad clean or something but it looks pretty rough for a resin print. I have a mono X and get amazing detail out of it, i just did these earlier: I'm printing at 0.03, but the more I talk to the guys actually making the train it sounds like 0.05 is pretty much the way to go. Something about UV bleed/penetration depth is apparently perfect at 0.05 and there are some run-on issues if you try and print lower. I think there's slightly less layer lining at 0.03 but the trade off is that it's way harder to calibrate
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Oct 31, 2022 15:27
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:Here is an infantry sized guy from the same printer though and tbh on reflection he is actually not lined up that badly in most spots. But the issue a lot of the contours are not defined very well at all. I understand DLP could do better for these models with a lot of small edges? So, there's some confusion happening here, because there's no way those two models came off the same printer. The first one is definitely an FDM print, while the second one is definitely a resin print. These are two very, very different technologies with drastically different pros and cons. That said, I really do think you're looking for a more expensive thing to solve a problem that either doesn't exist or that isn't solvable. I agree that the resin print looks a little undefined, but I strongly suspect that the problem there is the underlying model being too simple or there being some kind of problem with the printer/slicer settings. Some of the cheapest printers that you can buy on Amazon (literally under $150) will produce output that will blow that model away in terms of detail and will be essentially indistinguishable from plastic minis in a tabletop setting. Will they have layer lines? Yep, but so will prints off of a $1000 DLP printer. The gains in going from 2k to 4k to 8k to DLP are extremely marginal in part because even the lowest resolution resin printers are capable of really, really high detail output. Edit- My honest advice is to not spend all your funbux and instead buy a midrange 4k printer like a Mars 3. If you aren't happy with the results from a machine like that, then you aren't going to be happy with any 3d printer no matter how much you spend. The differences just aren't that large. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Oct 31, 2022 |
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Oct 31, 2022 15:37
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Yeah whoops as it turns out while I got both prints at the at the same time from the same person the gateway was an FDM print while the death jester was a first run of his Mars 3 before learning about processing and optimizing. It was a while ago so I forgot and since then I cleaned up the gate a lot. Good thing the best pic I dug up was of it still on the plate 😅 . Thanks for all the inputs, I decided to go for the Mars 3 since it's my first one, comes recommended and leaves some vouchers for extras like resins and some gifts for the folks.
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Oct 31, 2022 16:00
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 A little late to the party, but this little guy (~50mm long) was printed just over 3 years ago on an old-rear end original model Anycubic Photon, which is kind of the equivalent of drawing it with crayons compared to a more modern resin machine, and yet it's still superbly detailed. Layer lines? Sure, in some areas, mostly due to (a) the orientation of the model in the printer and (b) me not giving a single poo poo because they're nowhere near that visible to the naked eye. Regardless of the printing method, there are always going to be artifacts of some sort that will need to be post-processed away. The degree to which that will be necessary depends on the type of printer, the knowledge and skill of the printer operator (because anyone can just print trash, that's really easy) and an awful lot of other variables. You'll do very well with that Mars 3, provided you actually take the time to learn the ins and outs of resin and especially how to use the software effectively. There's definitely a learning curve, but we've all been there, and you'll find lots of help here if you need it. 
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Oct 31, 2022 16:07
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:Yeah whoops as it turns out while I got both prints at the at the same time from the same person the gateway was an FDM print while the death jester was a first run of his Mars 3 before learning about processing and optimizing. It was a while ago so I forgot and since then I cleaned up the gate a lot. Good thing the best pic I dug up was of it still on the plate 😅 . Since you're just getting into it be sure to be safe about resin. It's bad for your health so you don't want to get it on you. Many folks set up systems to get the smell to go out of a window or through a charcoal air filter. Wear gloves while handling resin. You don't have to use a ton of disposable ones if you get some decent ones you wipe off before taking them. Also, goons correct me, but I think nitrile is preferred to latex as resin will eat through it? I may have that wrong, I don't have a resin printer so. And for general workflow, having a big silicone tray or mat down under the printer and your work area to catch drips or spills is a good idea. Also it's common to have multi-step parts washing so you don't have to throw out your isopropyl alcohol very often, you can just have one container for the first wash, and then a second wash or wash and cure station with UV lights. There's a lot of good ones on the market but you can also make your own if you want to with UV LED strips.
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Oct 31, 2022 18:14
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Thanks, I actually just put the order in and went for water washable resin and nitrile gloves. I would like to try the regular resin and IPAs to clean it later for comparison, but thought to keep things as simple as possible for this time around. Space is also a concern, it's competing with an airbrush spray booth in the same room, so dont worry I know about the need for ventilation. Is it a problem to be moving the printer around regularly?(not while printing ofc).. it will probably need to go into a locker when not in use. I know the mars has a bit more manual calibration steps than higher end machines, and that's fine.
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Oct 31, 2022 19:13
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I'm having trouble getting a good first layer on this Neptune 3, but I'm not sure what the issue is so I don't know what to do to fix it. Any suggestions for where to start?
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Oct 31, 2022 19:33
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Listerine posted:I'm having trouble getting a good first layer on this Neptune 3, but I'm not sure what the issue is so I don't know what to do to fix it. Any suggestions for where to start? Front left looks a little high so it's ramming filament into the bed instead of laying it down. I'd lower that corner a bit and then just check the other three corners and that one again. If the middle is too high when all the corners are decent then it may be warped and bending up in the middle.
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Oct 31, 2022 19:39
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If I'm not mistaken, the Neptune 3's "level bed" command just sets the Z offset in the center of the build plate. There's some other fancy poo poo you have on the screen to do to actually set up a levelling mesh. You want to tell the printer to take some samples at various points on the bed and figure out a rough topological map of the bed. That might be called "mesh level" or "bed level" or something else, you'll have to check your manual. You should be able to add this automatically to your slicer with a G-code, and then the printer will level the whole bet before each print, which is how I do things with my Ender 3 v2.
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Oct 31, 2022 19:43
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Listerine posted:I'm having trouble getting a good first layer on this Neptune 3, but I'm not sure what the issue is so I don't know what to do to fix it. Any suggestions for where to start? OK I guess first off did you tighten the nuts underneath the bed during assembly? You want them tight enough that the bed won't wobble, but not too tight to avoid strain on the motors. Same with the X-Axis, you can use this (sorta lovely tbh) guide to help you with that. https://old.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune3/comments/wekdax/leveling_your_xaxis_the_abba_beatles_way/ Second you definitely want to re-level the bed after that. I *think* the firmware still has that issue where the bed mesh isn't saved automatically, so you can save it under... uhhh... options - temperature - save button in the corner, I think. Finally run that first layer test again, and if it's consistent you can mess with the z-offset during that. cruft posted:If I'm not mistaken, the Neptune 3's "level bed" command just sets the Z offset in the center of the build plate. There's some other fancy poo poo you have on the screen to do to actually set up a levelling mesh. BadMedic fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Oct 31, 2022 |
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Oct 31, 2022 19:45
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Welp I was going to just plug in this stealth burner to the board and verify my neopixels and fans work, but my order arrived and now I have the stuff to just make a clockwork2 and I might just make sure stuff isn't going to shake loose and reprint everything I think my print for the current parts could be redone as I printed right at the tail end of beta and stuff updated since, and I might as well make sure it's all pretty
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Oct 31, 2022 23:01
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Pulled the trigger and bought the D2. Anycubic had the nerve to charge $20 for shipping after spending $1k
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Nov 1, 2022 00:37
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Thanks for all the replies.BadMedic posted:Same with the X-Axis, you can use this (sorta lovely tbh) guide to help you with that. https://old.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune3/comments/wekdax/leveling_your_xaxis_the_abba_beatles_way/ I'm pretty sure this was an issue, the arm was not as level as it could be. How do you know if the the the eccentric nuts are too tight for the motors? I have them tightened so that the arm is moving up and down, but I have no idea if it's straining the motors, other than that I don't hear anything.
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Nov 1, 2022 01:30
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:Thanks, I actually just put the order in and went for water washable resin and nitrile gloves. I would like to try the regular resin and IPAs to clean it later for comparison, but thought to keep things as simple as possible for this time around. Water washable resin is pretty over hyped in my opinion, I was not impressed by the one bottle of it I use and now I just use normal IPA all the time. Usually cheaper resin, I find it rinses off easier/better anyway, and even the worst-offending resin I have used is not as bad as the smell of the IPA itself. That being said, even with water washable resin; DO NOT DISPOSE OF IT THROUGH NORMAL WATER DISPOSAL METHODS Uncured resin is a bad thing and water washable does not mean water flushable. Whatever type you use always, always cure the resin first, then dispose of it as a solid(-ish goop). I find this easiest to accomplish by leaving one of my cleaning baths just sit on the back porch for a few days until I remember it so it gets blasted with a metric poo poo ton of sun-provided UV. Then I use some coffee filters to filter the chunky stuff out of my rinsing agent over and over until it has become completely unusable, at which point I let it evaporate on the back porch, usually in an empty milk jug, and dispose of it and the milk jug as a solid again.
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Nov 1, 2022 01:46
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Javid posted:That is a significantly more FDM-friendly object than most tabletop minis. I don't think the model needs any work beyond normal slicer configuration. I just spent like half an hour messing with it in cura, and I see two ways to tackle that one. That is incredibly helpful. Thank you.
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Nov 1, 2022 02:59
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