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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Anyone worked with sweetgum before (please, this is a family thread, no jokes about exes with BPD)? I was splitting some firewood and that drat stuff is tough and does not want to split, so I thought it might be in the same category as ash or maybe hickory for pliable, steam-bendable, etc. Not that I have any such project in mind....

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Mr. Mambold posted:

Anyone worked with sweetgum before (please, this is a family thread, no jokes about exes with BPD)? I was splitting some firewood and that drat stuff is tough and does not want to split, so I thought it might be in the same category as ash or maybe hickory for pliable, steam-bendable, etc. Not that I have any such project in mind....

I used sweet gum for panels in frame and panel cabinet doors, so I haven't done anything beyond cutting it into rectangles and chamfering the edges.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Mr. Mambold posted:

Anyone worked with sweetgum before (please, this is a family thread, no jokes about exes with BPD)? I was splitting some firewood and that drat stuff is tough and does not want to split, so I thought it might be in the same category as ash or maybe hickory for pliable, steam-bendable, etc. Not that I have any such project in mind....

Sweetgum usually has a roed/interlocked grain like elm or sapele and is consequently very hard to split. Its not especially strong or weak. It’s not very good firewood either when you do get it split. It can be quite beautiful and the heartwood can have a really nice walnuty color and nice figure, but it’s pretty unstable, prone to warping and difficult to work with because of the interlocked grain IME. I did some stuff for a customer with some air dried slabs he had cut and it was gorgeous, but like 2 days after we face jointed/planed it it had cupped like 1/4”+ on a 12” board despite being stickered. Lots of movements. It gets used for pallets and railroad ties, but commercially it mostly is used for hardwood pulpwood, not lumber, for a reason.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I don't think many people read my house thread so I thought I'd ask if anyone has any opinions about what my shutters are likely made of:

Danhenge posted:

I think maybe the original shutters are all cedar and they maybe used SYP for that replacement rail? The shutters are very, very light and there aren't any visible knots in the wood.



The paint obscures the character but here's what it looks like close up:



I can try and take a better picture after I sand, although it's still likely to have some paint.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Danhenge posted:

I don't think many people read my house thread so I thought I'd ask if anyone has any opinions about what my shutters are likely made of:

I can try and take a better picture after I sand, although it's still likely to have some paint.

That bottom stile looks like SYP, but like you said that might be a repair.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Danhenge posted:

I don't think many people read my house thread so I thought I'd ask if anyone has any opinions about what my shutters are likely made of:

I can try and take a better picture after I sand, although it's still likely to have some paint.

Hard to say. Softwoods are pretty hard to ID from a photo. IIRC you’re in the mid-Atlantic so cypress or Atlantic white cedar are both very likely. It doesn’t quiiiite look like cypress to me (though it definitely could be) but with all the paint still on it’s hard to tell. I haven’t worked with enough white cedar to really say much about it with certainty. White cedar is softer and lighter than cypress, but both are soft and light, so without a known sample it’s kind of hard to make any sort of comparison. If you poke around the wood database there may be more detailed info on exact ID, likely involving a magnifying glass and close study of the endgrain. Cypress has a pretty distinct smell but over 100+ years it may well have faded.

The repair does look like yellow pine, but it could be cypress. The dark growth rings on cypress will likely dent with your fingernail, yellow pine probably won’t.

E: looking at more pictures of Atlantic white cedar and I’m leaning more towards cypress. It has that warm orangey grain to it that definitely looks like cypress. The white cedar I am seeing looks a little more green like western red cedar and doesn’t seem to have as pronounced a grain contrast as cypress.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Oct 31, 2022

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Looking at Cypress, that does seem likely! Cool, thank you! I wish somebody hadn't done such an awful job pinning the mortises so I could clean the whole thing up a little better

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

keep it down up there! posted:

Another common DIY version is using scaffolding legs/leveling jacks.


Okay, you convinced me. Carved out a pocket for the nut in a chunk of 2x10 and covered in 3/4 ply.



Took apart the bench I made when I was like 20 for automotive crap. Made a 2x10 leg brace to better support the table that also will be the backing of the leg vise. I buried a flange support between the 2x10 layers to give the screw some support after the nut.




I glued up a bunch of scrap plywood to make a hand wheel around the foot of the jack but it’ll still be quite a bit bigger than the BusyBee 4.5” hand wheels (mine would be like 9” diameter finished). The Tommy bar thing seems simpler but handwheel seems nicer to actually use. Undecided there but the handle bit is easily changed since it’s just bolted together for now.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Hello woodworking thread. I am an extreme woodworking noob and want to start with a first small project of sorts. Are there any consensus pretty good ones I might want to try out among the millions of woodworking guide sites / videos out there?

For tool access, I have some very basic stuff at home, I have been wanting to try out the local Nonprofit Tool Library in case there's stuff I don't have, and I can probably use my Dad's basement workshop as a work area (I live in a condo so probably need to worry about dust). I'd probably get project wood from a rebuilding exchange place here or Lowes Depot, I am guessing, but correct me if this is off base. Where do woodworkers get their project wood? :v:

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

Inner Light posted:

Hello woodworking thread. I am an extreme woodworking noob and want to start with a first small project of sorts. Are there any consensus pretty good ones I might want to try out among the millions of woodworking guide sites / videos out there?

For tool access, I have some very basic stuff at home, I have been wanting to try out the local Nonprofit Tool Library in case there's stuff I don't have, and I can probably use my Dad's basement workshop as a work area (I live in a condo so probably need to worry about dust). I'd probably get project wood from a rebuilding exchange place here or Lowes Depot, I am guessing, but correct me if this is off base. Where do woodworkers get their project wood? :v:

Learn to make a box. Then learn to make the box pretty.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

NPR Journalizard posted:

Learn to make a box. Then learn to make the box pretty.

:hmmyes:

If you can make a box, someday you'll be able to make a bigger, more complicated box (wardrobe, series of cabinets, bed etc).

Also if you go with hand tools you can do it in a condo with way less sawdust. You can find designs for pretty compact or stowable workbenches.

E: there are a couple of pretty good lumberyards in my city, not counting the ones who sell to professional cabinetmakers, so I tend to go there unless I just need, like, a dowel. I also at some point learned which of the independent hardware or home renovation stores have decent wood.

SimonSays fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Nov 1, 2022

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Is there a name for the kind of shelf hardware in this thing?



The actual very expensive bookshelf is here.

My wife likes the design and she thought it would be easy to copy but I'm starting to suspect the shelf hardware itself is more custom than anticipated.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Danhenge posted:

Is there a name for the kind of shelf hardware in this thing?



The actual very expensive bookshelf is here.

My wife likes the design and she thought it would be easy to copy but I'm starting to suspect the shelf hardware itself is more custom than anticipated.

Those legs are cast iron, I suspect a casting that size will always be pretty expensive.

That website calls them wishbone legs and that fits the name other structural elements in that shape, and it brings up quite a few results.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Make a board with a nail in it.

Then make a bigger board with a bigger nail in it.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Danhenge posted:

Is there a name for the kind of shelf hardware in this thing?



The actual very expensive bookshelf is here.

My wife likes the design and she thought it would be easy to copy but I'm starting to suspect the shelf hardware itself is more custom than anticipated.

If you made the entire thing of wood, one piece with curvy transitions, rounded corners it might be gorgeous. That's what my eye saw first, before realizing metal side braces.

edit- that price seems obscene to me. I bet a local welder could help you there if you go that route.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Inner Light posted:

Hello woodworking thread. I am an extreme woodworking noob and want to start with a first small project of sorts. Are there any consensus pretty good ones I might want to try out among the millions of woodworking guide sites / videos out there?

For tool access, I have some very basic stuff at home, I have been wanting to try out the local Nonprofit Tool Library in case there's stuff I don't have, and I can probably use my Dad's basement workshop as a work area (I live in a condo so probably need to worry about dust). I'd probably get project wood from a rebuilding exchange place here or Lowes Depot, I am guessing, but correct me if this is off base. Where do woodworkers get their project wood? :v:

rn mostly from the power company lol. Turns out they gotta do something with all the trees they cut down.

You can sometimes get oak or poplar from a lowes, but not very cheaply and the difference between their general stock of architectural 2x4s and the hardwoods people make most smaller stuff out of is... large. Like you can probably make do with the shittiest chisel at the yard sale for a very long time but if your wood sucks whatever you're making is doomed. There's a nice lumber store or two in every city tho if you hunt around a little

SimonSays posted:

Those legs are cast iron, I suspect a casting that size will always be pretty expensive.

That website calls them wishbone legs and that fits the name other structural elements in that shape, and it brings up quite a few results.

yeah that giant bracket isn't a generic casting you're gonna find for $20 somewhere, it's one huge integrated piece specifically for that shelf. There's lots of ways to approximate that shape in wood but... it's not very strong design in wood. Either you've got a crazy buddy who does 6' sandcasts in his backyard or you're not making that for any cheaper than it is.

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Nov 1, 2022

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

SimonSays posted:

Those legs are cast iron, I suspect a casting that size will always be pretty expensive.

That website calls them wishbone legs and that fits the name other structural elements in that shape, and it brings up quite a few results.

Yeah it occurred to me that the sheer quantity of iron was probably expensive.

Mr. Mambold posted:

If you made the entire thing of wood, one piece with curvy transitions, rounded corners it might be gorgeous. That's what my eye saw first, before realizing metal side braces.

edit- that price seems obscene to me. I bet a local welder could help you there if you go that route.

Wife has an unreasonable love of brass. We've had an ongoing low-grade conflict about how much solid brass we actually need in our 1930 home vs painted or plated brass.

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

yeah that giant bracket isn't a generic casting you're gonna find for $20 somewhere, it's one huge integrated piece specifically for that shelf. There's lots of ways to approximate that shape in wood but... it's not very strong design in wood. Either you've got a crazy buddy who does 6' sandcasts in his backyard or you're not making that for any cheaper than it is.

Thanks for the confirmation! That was the impression I got just by poking around.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Inner Light posted:

Hello woodworking thread. I am an extreme woodworking noob and want to start with a first small project of sorts. Are there any consensus pretty good ones I might want to try out among the millions of woodworking guide sites / videos out there?

For tool access, I have some very basic stuff at home, I have been wanting to try out the local Nonprofit Tool Library in case there's stuff I don't have, and I can probably use my Dad's basement workshop as a work area (I live in a condo so probably need to worry about dust). I'd probably get project wood from a rebuilding exchange place here or Lowes Depot, I am guessing, but correct me if this is off base. Where do woodworkers get their project wood? :v:

What kind of things do you (eventually) want to make?

IMO you should make things that you want to have. My first project was a wall hanging coat rack. Just two pieces of poplar screwed together with some pre-made scrollwork from the home center, covered in stain and varnish and some hardware screwed on. It's still hanging in our entryway. My second project was a table. It's awful (literally screws into end grain lol) but I still use it for my desk.

Materials for a single, small project are pretty cheap so imo you shouldn't stress too much about screwing it up or bother making something you don't actually want. Just go for it. You'll get more knowledge and confidence quickly. If you have a specific project in mind, we can point you to some resources.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
One thing that I ran across at some point, maybe it was in a conversation with another crafter(?), was that everything is a box.

Boxes? Box. Cabinet? Box without a front or back. Planter? Box without a lid. Table? Box but has sticks attached and might also have a smaller box stuck to it. The thing they were impressing on me was to practice joining two pieces together at right angles (other angles to come) in different ways because that'll be the most common way you'll end up joining things together.

But there are a million ideas out there, and the thing that makes a good starter project is something that looks cool to you. I keep a notes file on my phone full of pictures of ideas and inspirations and projects I want to try at some point ranging from plant holders to small furniture projects to shelves... anytime I see something cool in person or online I grab a snapshot and put it in the ideas file. I might recommend doing that and then when you sit down to start something you've got some notes to work from.

But for a starting project I would say to make a box, everything is a box.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
I just made a drawer, aka a box with a fancy front, no lid, and a lovely bottom.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I'm gonna back things up a bit and ask, how much workspace do you have? Small projects can be the best projects if you're working in a tiny corner of your garage or on your kitchen table. Of course you can make a very small box, but IMO the smaller the joinery you're working on the more delicate and fine the work tends to need to be in order for it to look good.

One woodworking hobby we rarely talk about here is carving. Whittling is the simplest form, perhaps, and you can do this with as little as a hunk of basswood and a very sharp knife. Got any kids in your life? You can also make a lot of small toys by starting with a hunk of wood, carving it into a shape, and perhaps attaching some wheels and a rope handle for a pull. You can make whirlygigs and wind toys by attaching fins/vanes/etc to an axle that runs through your carved bird shape thing. If you want to pick up some carving gouges and really get into carving, you can work with flat wood clamped to a surface and make designs on it - carve someone's name prettily in wood and it's a desk ornament or a door ornament, carve a floral scene and it's part of a decorative box, or make a hole through it and mount a store-bought clock mechanism to the back and you have a wall clock.

Re: making boxes, which I agree is a good idea: small boxes that don't need to look good include bird houses, which are a great thing to build from scrap or crappy wood, especially because you can use paint to hide your mistakes.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Danhenge posted:

Yeah it occurred to me that the sheer quantity of iron was probably expensive.

Wife has an unreasonable love of brass. We've had an ongoing low-grade conflict about how much solid brass we actually need in our 1930 home vs painted or plated brass.

Thanks for the confirmation! That was the impression I got just by poking around.

You might check etsy, craigslist, yard sales.....hell, who knows.

Bann
Jan 14, 2019

Make a dang mallet.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
That's actually on my list of things to-do...

Suggestions for wood to use? I have some really tough hardwood (goncalo alves shorts I picked up on sale), but they're really really pretty and I was thinking of making utensils out of it.
Other stuff I've got knocking around is cherry, maple, I think I might still have some hickory lying around maybe? Sapele?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Cherry is wonderful to work with. Maple can be extremely hard but makes good pieces. Hickory is similar I think, I've never worked with it.

Also here is a cool video someone just sent me. Do not try this at home.

https://i.imgur.com/MCmzalW.mp4

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
It kind of sucks that as a beginning woodworker pine is so cheap and easy to acquire, because I really hate the look of pine.

I'm pretty intent on avoiding hand tools because I just do not have steady enough hands to do anything. I've got the table saw, pretty sure my next purchase is gonna be a planer, then I can do my wood shopping at the place just down from my house that sells boards from trees felled in the city.

But until then it's pine, or paying ludicrous prices for S4S boards at the big box store.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


FISHMANPET posted:

It kind of sucks that as a beginning woodworker pine is so cheap and easy to acquire, because I really hate the look of pine.

I'm pretty intent on avoiding hand tools because I just do not have steady enough hands to do anything. I've got the table saw, pretty sure my next purchase is gonna be a planer, then I can do my wood shopping at the place just down from my house that sells boards from trees felled in the city.

But until then it's pine, or paying ludicrous prices for S4S boards at the big box store.

I don't know where you are, but locally I've been buying my lumber from a molding place down the road. They specialize in moldings but will totally sell me s4s lumber. My latest batch was white ash, 8" width, 9 ft long, 100 boards, for $1000. Call it about $1.75 a board foot. It's neat too because it's mostly local timber.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
Might be worth looking around to see if you have a coop or something of the like around. Two cities near me have community wood work shops that are nice and pretty reasonable. Mines $100 a year in a 3500sqft shop. They have planer, jointer, drum sander, band saw, two lathes, two saw stop cabinets, a cnc, and a bunch of other stuff. They also have a bunch of old guys that find wood and add it to the shop that you can buy at cost. I don’t have the resources, space, or time to set up a shop like that so it’s well worth it to me.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
One of the cabinets in my kitchen is really narrow and deep, so I'd like to do some pull-out drawers for it. The plan is to store towels and napkins in them. Does anyone have some drawer slides they'd like to recommend for this? I have close to two feet of depth to work with. I'd prefer not to have to replace the existing cabinet door, so my thinking was that I'd basically just do two open-topped boxes inside the cabinet, one per shelf.

Also, any advice for working with drawer slides would be appreciated. I've done sliding dovetails in the past, but I think for this application, I want the smoother action that bearings and metal slides can provide. My main concern, I think, is making sure I size the drawer to fit the slides properly.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
This is a case where partly I just like to complain. There is actually a big maker space less than a mile from me as well, looks like they've got a planer and a joiner. So if nothing else I could surface my boards there then bring them back to my own shop.

And, hey, I could use the metal shop and weld up a trailer for my bike that would let me travel with long boards.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

It'll be a pain in the rear end to screw in traditional drawer slides to the inside sides of a narrow cabinet where you can't get a screwdriver across, so keep that in mind and you might consider one that screws to the floor like this:


Here's a rundown of the several types typically used in kitchen cabinetry:
https://www.thehandymansdaughter.com/types-of-drawer-slides/

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Sadi posted:

Might be worth looking around to see if you have a coop or something of the like around. Two cities near me have community wood work shops that are nice and pretty reasonable. Mines $100 a year in a 3500sqft shop. They have planer, jointer, drum sander, band saw, two lathes, two saw stop cabinets, a cnc, and a bunch of other stuff. They also have a bunch of old guys that find wood and add it to the shop that you can buy at cost. I don’t have the resources, space, or time to set up a shop like that so it’s well worth it to me.

You put this in the best words possible. I keep looking for maker spaces and while they are plentiful, they have basic woodshop equipment. The number of rigid contractor table saws and miter saws is extreme.

But searching for a wood coop gave me exactly what I needed to find. They have a 20" planer and a 12" jointer, along with a 24" bandsaw that I imagine can do a snappy job at re-sawing for book matched panels. The lovely part is you have to pay $90/hr, plus shop time to get certified to use any of it. It absolutely makes sense because big city shop space, but spending $100 to get to use a machine is a heavy investment. I should absolutely do this when I'm rebuilding my kitchen though.

I just need something in between so I can use a jointer three times a year.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


Leperflesh posted:

It'll be a pain in the rear end to screw in traditional drawer slides to the inside sides of a narrow cabinet where you can't get a screwdriver across, so keep that in mind and you might consider one that screws to the floor like this:

Alternatively, look around and see if there’s a place nearby where you can rent a right angle drill for an afternoon.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Makita-Right-Angle-Drill-1-2-DA4000LR/316821878

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
It's not a super narrow cabinet. It's probably like 8-10" across in the doorway, and slightly wider inside. But it's narrow enough to make getting things in/out of it a pain. That said, bottom-mounted slides sound like a fantastic idea, thank you! Does it matter much what brand I get, or are they pretty interchangeable once I figure out which style I need?

I do already have a right-angle driver attachment. It doesn't come in handy often, but when it does, I'm really glad I have it.

EDIT: measured the openings. They're 9" wide by 10.5" tall by 23" deep. There's a bit under an inch of extra width on either side once you get past the front of the cabinet. I have a 9.5" wide, 1.25" thick walnut board, so what I'm thinking is that I cut that into 2' sections, resaw each one on my bandsaw, let the resawn panels stabilize, use my thicknesser to flatten them, then make them into boxes. My hope is that I'll retain at least 3/8" of material, which should be sufficient. It feels like kind of a waste of a good walnut board, but I don't have appropriate plywood handy and I really need to make inroads on my lumber hoard.

TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Nov 2, 2022

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.

Sadi posted:

Might be worth looking around to see if you have a coop or something of the like around. Two cities near me have community wood work shops that are nice and pretty reasonable. Mines $100 a year in a 3500sqft shop.

I think I posted this here before, but the one near me is $149 a month, minimum 3 months, plus $99 safety certification.

Also, you are prohibited from using Ipe, Bubinga, Purpleheart, Lignum Vitae, Teak, or anything over 2000 janka for being too hard. You can't use Pine for being too soft. You can't use any pressure treated lumber, and you can't use any reclaimed lumber of any kind without special authorization. You can't put anything with epoxy through the planer. Storage of any kind of materials at the shop is a minimum of $.35 per piece per day.

That's for the woodworking only place. The "makerspace" near me is $249 a month.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I can't find sheets of 1/4" masonite/tempered hardboard anywhere locally. Anyone else have a hard time finding it? Maybe it's a regional thing? I love it for patterns but it seems to not exist anymore.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Elysium posted:

I think I posted this here before, but the one near me is $149 a month, minimum 3 months, plus $99 safety certification.

Also, you are prohibited from using Ipe, Bubinga, Purpleheart, Lignum Vitae, Teak, or anything over 2000 janka for being too hard. You can't use Pine for being too soft. You can't use any pressure treated lumber, and you can't use any reclaimed lumber of any kind without special authorization. You can't put anything with epoxy through the planer. Storage of any kind of materials at the shop is a minimum of $.35 per piece per day.

That's for the woodworking only place. The "makerspace" near me is $249 a month.

if your space is limited I'm sure it's a godsend but :wow: that's steep (to me)

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I can't find sheets of 1/4" masonite/tempered hardboard anywhere locally. Anyone else have a hard time finding it? Maybe it's a regional thing? I love it for patterns but it seems to not exist anymore.

My local Menards looks to have a shitload in stock, this is northern Michigan.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I can't find sheets of 1/4" masonite/tempered hardboard anywhere locally. Anyone else have a hard time finding it? Maybe it's a regional thing? I love it for patterns but it seems to not exist anymore.

Could you call a commercial supply house? The kind of place that dropships to contractors?

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



TooMuchAbstraction posted:

It's not a super narrow cabinet. It's probably like 8-10" across in the doorway, and slightly wider inside. But it's narrow enough to make getting things in/out of it a pain. That said, bottom-mounted slides sound like a fantastic idea, thank you! Does it matter much what brand I get, or are they pretty interchangeable once I figure out which style I need?

I do already have a right-angle driver attachment. It doesn't come in handy often, but when it does, I'm really glad I have it.

EDIT: measured the openings. They're 9" wide by 10.5" tall by 23" deep. There's a bit under an inch of extra width on either side once you get past the front of the cabinet. I have a 9.5" wide, 1.25" thick walnut board, so what I'm thinking is that I cut that into 2' sections, resaw each one on my bandsaw, let the resawn panels stabilize, use my thicknesser to flatten them, then make them into boxes. My hope is that I'll retain at least 3/8" of material, which should be sufficient. It feels like kind of a waste of a good walnut board, but I don't have appropriate plywood handy and I really need to make inroads on my lumber hoard.

The way we built those on site was to make a U frame for the side guides of 1 x 2" or thereabouts, attach your hardware, and fasten that to the front. That's if you have overlap stiles. If they're flush to your bulkheads, just mount on that. Use the drawer itself to align the back piece, then nail that to the back wall. Full extensions similar to what leperflesh listed, except without floor mounts are great and they come in 22" deep, which is perfect for your scenario. They're a bit pricey, but you get full function and they're HD rated. I made 20" wide slideout shelves for appliances using those.

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