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AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



DrBouvenstein posted:

I'm a little upset at Delta...they lied about the compatibility of their bath faucet...sort of.

All the info I found told me that the new Delta bath faucet/handle/shower set I got would fit my existing rough-in, since I have no desire (or means, really) to try and replace it. When I went to try and swap it out yesterday, it seems they sort of stretched the truth. They changed styles of cartridge/rough-in. On the left is the old one (what I have) on the right is the new one:


Now, I CAN just buy a new RP19804 cartridge...that will fit my rough-in, and it can be used on the new faucet handle. But now that's an extra $60 (or like $20 if I buy this off-brand knockoff from Wal-Mart...which I will NOT do, not trusting off-brand plumbing inside the wall where I can't easily tell if it's leaking...) and now I have a useless new cartridge that I can't use that came with the set.

Maybe if I did better research, I'd have known this...but I literally just looked up my old model and the Delta website said the line I got is compatible. Which again...it sort of is, provided you buy the critical piece of hardware that literally connects it all together! So more research wouldn't even have helped, other than I would have had the cartridge I needed at the time I tried to do the swap, I'd still have tp spend the money...as far as I can tell, I can't order a new Delta set with the old-style of cartridge.




I have nothing to add to your question.


Sorry.

Edit: What an awful snipe, I'm sorry.

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Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

AFewBricksShy posted:

I have nothing to add to your question.


Sorry.

Edit: What an awful snipe, I'm sorry.

lol

Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

Enos Cabell posted:

Laying the tile is probably the easy part of that job if you're skilled enough to do all the prep and build out the enclosure.

I have no worries about the prep work and the enclosure. I've only done tile twice before and while it came out looking good enough I found it to be a hassle. I tend to leave a bit more lipping than I'd like. Also I have not done vertical tile, but I suppose it's not that different from horizontal.

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

AFewBricksShy posted:

I have nothing to add to your question.


Sorry.

Edit: What an awful snipe, I'm sorry.

Home Zone: Homer Improvement

Sous Videodrome
Apr 9, 2020

I'm getting three more quotes. If those are all over $10,000 then I'll decide if that's worth it to pay or if this should be a DIY endeavor. I really, really don't want to do that much tiling.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Update on the PEX w/SharkBite stuff.

I called one Plumber who ghosted me.
A second who asked for pics of the issue then ghosted me.
A third came out and said "nah that's what we would have done... just install an access panel and monitor it. Copper will just eventually deteriorate too much."

These are all three companies from around here. Not just, like, randos from Nextdoor.

Yeesh.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BonoMan posted:

Update on the PEX w/SharkBite stuff.

I called one Plumber who ghosted me.
A second who asked for pics of the issue then ghosted me.
A third came out and said "nah that's what we would have done... just install an access panel and monitor it. Copper will just eventually deteriorate too much."

These are all three companies from around here. Not just, like, randos from Nextdoor.

Yeesh.

I mean, I'm not surprised at all. This is why I've been beating the drum for people to not buy these lovely houses they were overpaying for in the last couple of years. There are very few people available to do work, and the ones that will actually do small jobs just don't give a poo poo. The ones you want are making bank on big jobs and won't pull their truck/tools off of those sites for a $150 job.

I just don't know what to tell people anymore other than "start learning how to do poo poo yourself."

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Motronic posted:

I mean, I'm not surprised at all. This is why I've been beating the drum for people to not buy these lovely houses they were overpaying for in the last couple of years. There are very few people available to do work, and the ones that will actually do small jobs just don't give a poo poo. The ones you want are making bank on big jobs and won't pull their truck/tools off of those sites for a $150 job.

I just don't know what to tell people anymore other than "start learning how to do poo poo yourself."

I mean honestly I'm fine learning to do it myself and am going to do it for the rest of the poo poo around here. The only thing that gave me a little pause was bringing a flame in there to sweat the copper, but gently caress it I'll practice on something first. (also of lol I noticed a nice char mark on a nearby stud where someone had soldered some copper elbow that ran nearby it.)

And tangent to this, there's a few great tiktock/instas to follow that are inspectors showing just brain dead poo poo in various houses they inspect. The older stuff is to be expected, but the poo poo they show on brand new $1M+ houses is insane.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

BonoMan posted:

I mean honestly I'm fine learning to do it myself and am going to do it for the rest of the poo poo around here. The only thing that gave me a little pause was bringing a flame in there to sweat the copper, but gently caress it I'll practice on something first. (also of lol I noticed a nice char mark on a nearby stud where someone had soldered some copper elbow that ran nearby it.)

And tangent to this, there's a few great tiktock/instas to follow that are inspectors showing just brain dead poo poo in various houses they inspect. The older stuff is to be expected, but the poo poo they show on brand new $1M+ houses is insane.

Just pick up one of these. It'll prevent you from immediately catching stuff on fire with the torch.

Keep some water in the immediate area (on top of a fire extinguisher).

Edit: updated link to one that probably won't immediately catch fire

devicenull fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Nov 4, 2022

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

devicenull posted:

Just pick up one of these. It'll prevent you from immediately catching stuff on fire with the torch.

Keep some water in the immediate area (on top of a fire extinguisher).

...that would have been handing when I was running a water line in my back yard. I just used a fence board that I soaked in water as my backer, which worked but was kind of awkward.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

...that would have been handing when I was running a water line in my back yard. I just used a fence board that I soaked in water as my backer, which worked but was kind of awkward.

I mean maybe don't buy that exact one because the only amazon review is "IT CAUGHT FIRE"... but the idea is solid. I have one I got from Lowes which doesn't have the hole and stuff but I can point the torch at and it doesn't ignite.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

devicenull posted:

Just pick up one of these. It'll prevent you from immediately catching stuff on fire with the torch.

Keep some water in the immediate area (on top of a fire extinguisher).

Edit: updated link to one that probably won't immediately catch fire

Thanks! I'll grab this.

Also just for funsies, here's the current scorch mark from who knows when:

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

BonoMan posted:

I mean honestly I'm fine learning to do it myself and am going to do it for the rest of the poo poo around here. The only thing that gave me a little pause was bringing a flame in there to sweat the copper, but gently caress it I'll practice on something first. (also of lol I noticed a nice char mark on a nearby stud where someone had soldered some copper elbow that ran nearby it.)

And tangent to this, there's a few great tiktock/instas to follow that are inspectors showing just brain dead poo poo in various houses they inspect. The older stuff is to be expected, but the poo poo they show on brand new $1M+ houses is insane.

Not that you want to spend this kind of money for a single repair, but it's a good excuse to post it:
https://remstoolsusa.com/rems-163020-hot-dog-2-electric-soldering-unit/

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

BonoMan posted:

Thanks! I'll grab this.

Also just for funsies, here's the current scorch mark from who knows when:



Since you're going to have to open the wall more to solder that - I'd consider checking out that pipe with the green corrosion in the background. It might be old, but since you're already there....

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

devicenull posted:

Since you're going to have to open the wall more to solder that - I'd consider checking out that pipe with the green corrosion in the background. It might be old, but since you're already there....

Word, I'll check that tomorrow.

Here's some other fun pics just because.

The OG Leak:



The leak effect (this is me looking down to where the steady drip eroded that piece of dry wall and into the baseboard).



Emerald City (this is actually just LEFT of the bracket in the first pic... basically the side of the stud with the scorch marks on it)

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

BonoMan posted:

Word, I'll check that tomorrow.

Here's some other fun pics just because.

The OG Leak:



The leak effect (this is me looking down to where the steady drip eroded that piece of dry wall and into the baseboard).



Emerald City (this is actually just LEFT of the bracket in the first pic... basically the side of the stud with the scorch marks on it)



It looks a lot less bad there - I'd suck out all the crap on the ground if you can, and see if anything looks wet.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

devicenull posted:

It looks a lot less bad there - I'd suck out all the crap on the ground if you can, and see if anything looks wet.

Yeah the wet areas are almost completely dry at this point.... just gonna give it to the end of the weekend vac out the crap

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
We have an over-range microwave left behind by the previous owners of our house, and it broke a few days ago. Shopping for one is whatever, but how much effort would it take to install one myself? I can see where the current one is plugged in as well as some screws holding into the cabinet above it. Is there more to it than that?

E: Although, how closely should I try to match the height and depth of the current unit?

C-Euro fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Nov 4, 2022

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Can anyone recommend a good snake to keep at home for random drain issues?

The PO of our house had long flowing black hair and we found it all over the place, to include the master bathroom sink drain. I used a cheap plastic zip from Home Depot on it and :barf: so figured maybe I should get something else and snake more gunk out when I get a chance. We’re on septic and have put draino down drains, but we’ve still got a few slow drains.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

C-Euro posted:

We have an over-range microwave left behind by the previous owners of our house, and it broke a few days ago. Shopping for one is whatever, but how much effort would it take to install one myself? I can see where the current one is plugged in as well as some screws holding into the cabinet above it. Is there more to it than that?
Generally they are set/hooked onto a mounting bracket on the wall, then screwed into the cabinet above.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

BonoMan posted:

Thanks! I'll grab this.

Also just for funsies, here's the current scorch mark from who knows when:



Is that dust or corrosion? If it's corrosion I'd wonder about the cause

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



BonoMan posted:

Thanks! I'll grab this.

Also just for funsies, here's the current scorch mark from who knows when:



The scorch mark is pretty normal for sweating adjacent to lumber. What concerns me is the corrosion on every single pipe in this image. Seems whoever piped this house when built couldn't keep their hands free of flux paste.

You can address most of it by shining it up with emory paper. It'll protect itself when it oxidizes to dark brown.

FYI it is not that easy to light up even older framing lumber. It'll scorch; it'll smoke. Keep a big rag in a bucket of water and hit your work & the framing with it when you're done sweating in the joint.

I've re-plumbed at least half of my 1930 bungalow supplies since 1992, all copper/sweat. I have sharkbites, but only as a temporary emergency repair.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Nov 4, 2022

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Vim Fuego posted:

Is that dust or corrosion? If it's corrosion I'd wonder about the cause

A lot of the white stuff is just dust from cutting the drywall. I'll take a closer analysis this weekend to be sure

We're definitely in a humid house and we're trying to figure out best way to remedy it

Currently, according to my air quality meter, it's at 65%. That's the highest it's been. It generally is within 50-60 which is still pretty high. It rained a few days ago but hasn't rained much the past few weeks otherwise.

We're in a little tuck of trees that doesn't get tons of direct sunlight but it's not buried. We live in a city technically just a very tree dense city (Cary, NC).

Currently leaves are falling rapidly and I have to keep emptying the gutters.

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Nov 4, 2022

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



C-Euro posted:

We have an over-range microwave left behind by the previous owners of our house, and it broke a few days ago. Shopping for one is whatever, but how much effort would it take to install one myself? I can see where the current one is plugged in as well as some screws holding into the cabinet above it. Is there more to it than that?

E: Although, how closely should I try to match the height and depth of the current unit?

If you’re handy with a drill then it’s pretty easy as long as they didn’t gently caress update the vent stack discharge the microwave connects to for external fan exhaust. Don’t ask me how I know…

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

C-Euro posted:

We have an over-range microwave left behind by the previous owners of our house, and it broke a few days ago. Shopping for one is whatever, but how much effort would it take to install one myself? I can see where the current one is plugged in as well as some screws holding into the cabinet above it. Is there more to it than that?

E: Although, how closely should I try to match the height and depth of the current unit?

Done this a few years ago. It's easy in theory.

Basically they hang from the cabinets above them, and there's also a special bracket attached to the wall that supports the back end. Kinda levers in place (hook the back side to the bracket, rotate the front up, and attach to upper cabinets).

Measure twice, drill once... the instructions should tell you where to mount the bracket relative to the cabinets.

Things to watch out for are any tile/beadboard/etc. backsplash that is matched to the microwave's height. We have beadboard and it was cut to be flush with the microwave, however the new one we bought was like half an inch bigger, so I had to some unexpected surgery with a dremel to make it fit. Wasn't exactly a clean line...

Theoretically if you have a gas range below it, you have minimum clearances you have to meet. Can't remember what they are, but as long as you're in the ballpark of the same size as the old microwave this shouldn't be a problem.

They're heavy and awkward, so it's best to have a 2nd set of hands when it comes time to mount it.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


This is a great chance to put an actual vent hood in. We did that a few years back when our over-range microwave died and it's been a huge QOL improvement. Microwave vent combos are pretty terrible comparatively.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BonoMan posted:

Thanks! I'll grab this.

Also just for funsies, here's the current scorch mark from who knows when:



Yeah,, that's very typical and basically to be expected. But somebody didn't wipe the flux off those pipes.

Also, forget fancy heatproof mats that catch on fire. A bucket of water and some rags work great. With that added bonus that you can wrap rags around things (like valves) to keep them cool when soldering to them.

Comrade Gritty
Sep 19, 2011

This Machine Kills Fascists
Use it as an excuse to buy a pro press!

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat

DaveSauce posted:

Done this a few years ago. It's easy in theory.

Makes sense, thanks. There's backsplash underneath it but the previous owner left an inch or two of bare wall between it and the current microwave. Found a couple of units with the same height and depth as our current one so I'll probably just pick up one of those so the fit is as simple as possible.

Enos Cabell posted:

This is a great chance to put an actual vent hood in. We did that a few years back when our over-range microwave died and it's been a huge QOL improvement. Microwave vent combos are pretty terrible comparatively.

I would looooooove to do this but my home reno budget is diverted in a half-dozen other directions right now.

C-Euro fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Nov 5, 2022

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

nwin posted:

Can anyone recommend a good snake to keep at home for random drain issues?

The PO of our house had long flowing black hair and we found it all over the place, to include the master bathroom sink drain. I used a cheap plastic zip from Home Depot on it and :barf: so figured maybe I should get something else and snake more gunk out when I get a chance. We’re on septic and have put draino down drains, but we’ve still got a few slow drains.

something like this will work just fine with a drill. A little annoying to use, but sooo much cheaper then calling a plumber.

Wear eye protection, and don't snake poo poo where you just put draino!

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

devicenull posted:

I mean maybe don't buy that exact one because the only amazon review is "IT CAUGHT FIRE"... but the idea is solid. I have one I got from Lowes which doesn't have the hole and stuff but I can point the torch at and it doesn't ignite.

Now I'm reminded of a barbeque I went to in college, where we tested a square of cafeteria-provided "cheese" by hitting it with a butane torch dead-center. It scorched that side of the cheese and left the other side untouched. So maybe we should be using fake cheese to protect our houses while soldering pipe.

A Jupiter
Apr 25, 2010

peanut posted:

Dang! That looks like a whole different house. Goongrats :peanut: Edit: I love those old school tiny stone tiles in the shower.

Here's some foundation, with some generic modern houses in the background.



edit: oh my god I was trying to quote this in the OSHA thread and i posted here goddamnit.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Are there any recommended (or even legitimate) home *air* mold testing kits? There's a lot of noise out there. I'd like to just check my general air to see.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BonoMan posted:

Are there any recommended (or even legitimate) home *air* mold testing kits? There's a lot of noise out there. I'd like to just check my general air to see.

My understanding is that you simply can't test this "at home". The pros are using calibrated vacuum equipment for a specific amount of time to draw room air over a sterile pad which then goes to a lab to be analyzed. The specific characteristics of airflow and time are how the lab extrapolates what they analyze on that sample pad to that amounts in the air in general for the tested area.

I don't see how one could cheap out on any of the equipment involved and still have an accurate test to send to the lab.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Motronic posted:

My understanding is that you simply can't test this "at home". The pros are using calibrated vacuum equipment for a specific amount of time to draw room air over a sterile pad which then goes to a lab to be analyzed. The specific characteristics of airflow and time are how the lab extrapolates what they analyze on that sample pad to that amounts in the air in general for the tested area.

I don't see how one could cheap out on any of the equipment involved and still have an accurate test to send to the lab.

Yeah I was looking at this which I think would qualify as an "at home" kit but still does the above. It uses an electric pump to draw in air over the cassette sampler which you then send off.

It def ain't cheap ($250 for a three room kit, but it does include the lab fees plus you can keep reusing the vacuum) but might be cheaper than calling in a pro service.

https://www.gotmold.com/

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


BonoMan posted:

Are there any recommended (or even legitimate) home *air* mold testing kits? There's a lot of noise out there. I'd like to just check my general air to see.

Motronic is correct, there is no home testing capable of doing this right. There are also no NIOSH guidelines or Federal standards about mold air levels. There is a definitive link to health issues however they tie it into the presence of dampness and use that as a driver for remediation.


https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2013-102/pdfs/2013-102.pdf

Should you want to test it you'd need a calibrated air sampling pump and a teflon cartridge. Where it gets tricky is you will collect everything in the air, pollen, dust, cat dander, as well as mold spores. So you have to somehow separate everything else in the air from the mold spores. This is done easily enough with a lot of air sampling where you can just dissolve it in the proper solvent and evaporate it out onto a controlled surface. With mold you'd have to grow it and which spores take root may not be indicative of what spores are actually present.

Even then you have information and the most critical air testing people (NIOSH) don't have a guideline for what is OK and what is not. So someone can say you have this crazy spore at a rate of 0.0005 ug/cubic meter, but that might be totally acceptable. Indoor air testing is hard when you're looking for dumb easy stuff, I can't imagine how difficult it would be to properly quantify mold.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yooper posted:

Even then you have information and the most critical air testing people (NIOSH) don't have a guideline for what is OK and what is not.

Mold is definitely a new-ish boogeyman. People have been going nuts over it for while now and it's getting to feel like a lot of it is nonsense spouted to sell tests and magical spray on products.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Motronic posted:

Mold is definitely a new-ish boogeyman. People have been going nuts over it for while now and it's getting to feel like a lot of it is nonsense spouted to sell tests and magical spray on products.

Yeah this is my wife's view. She's just like "I dunno... I always grew up with it. I constantly had to bleach my mom's walls."

And I'm not panicking or anything. Just with this new house with the old HVAC and my kids constantly all snotty... I just figured I'd give it a test if doable. If not it's no biggie either.

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BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

BonoMan posted:

Yeah I was looking at this which I think would qualify as an "at home" kit but still does the above. It uses an electric pump to draw in air over the cassette sampler which you then send off.

It def ain't cheap ($250 for a three room kit, but it does include the lab fees plus you can keep reusing the vacuum) but might be cheaper than calling in a pro service.

https://www.gotmold.com/



That’s definitely a close approximation of a cassette you use for air sampling. It’s not a professional pump but if it’s calibrated it should work. I would question how re-usable it is, but since you’re not trying to meet worker protection standards maybe it’s ok if it’s out of calibration in 6 months.

$250 for all the parts and 3 tests isn’t a bad price imo, unless the directions are bad or you don’t do it right.

It would probably (almost certainly) be cheaper than calling someone in to sample your air.

Do you have a reason to suspect that there are mold spores in your indoor air?

So to compare, this: gillian BDX ii is the real kind of pump that you’d use, but it’s $300 by itself and you also need cassettes and a calibration tool and to pay to ship your tests to the lab and have them sampled. I wouldn’t recommend buying one unless you want to change careers.

BigFactory fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Nov 7, 2022

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