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Chromatics posted:I only saw the one video that seemed to be talking about their regular acrylic line. I'm inclined to agree with you, except for reactivating dried paint on my pallette. Normally I just layer up weeks of dried goop in the pallette, but with reactivation tends to cause colours to mix with old paint...
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Nov 3, 2022 03:07
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It's definitely something to work around, I have to do a matte varnish sometimes but for me it's worth it
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Nov 3, 2022 03:19
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Imperfect, but done. Bases intentionally left bare. Just happy to have a finished force for any game at all so I can go down to my LGS again.    I think the Spider came out as my favorite.
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Nov 3, 2022 03:33
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Those are super solid, good work!
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Nov 3, 2022 07:04
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Would anyone happen to know of some good shield and weapon minis in dynamic poses? I’m putting together some wolfen proxies and I really don’t like their normal models. I’ll use the storm cast folks if I have no choice but their shields are pretty distinctive. I already have ten wolfen heads I got from a friend who turned his wolfen into skaven. Tzaangors and Kairic Acolytes from AoS look promising, possibly. a fatguy baldspot fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Nov 3, 2022 |
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Nov 3, 2022 13:52
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SkyeAuroline posted:Imperfect, but done. Bases intentionally left bare. Just happy to have a finished force for any game at all so I can go down to my LGS again. Those are rad, I love the colors. I'm getting ready to print out some 'Mechs to get into Battletech, even though I have no idea what would make a good starter set.
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Nov 3, 2022 15:30
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Count Thrashula posted:Those are rad, I love the colors. I'm getting ready to print out some 'Mechs to get into Battletech, even though I have no idea what would make a good starter set. Can't go too wrong by copying one of the regular mech sets, as far as I can tell. The Command Lance and Support Lance (this is a support lance box) have pretty good spreads of generalists, the rest lean into niches depending on who or what you favor. Not constrained to those, of course, but they're decent examples for "the game designers think these make a good set". Battletech thread can probably help more, I've only ever played via Megamek before where the limitations of miniatures don't exist.
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Nov 3, 2022 15:38
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After seeing so many great minis and paint jobs in this thread, I started painting my first box of warhammer minis. I’ve painted lots of other things but not really WH. Still finishing some little details but I really enjoyed painting this half of the warband.   
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Nov 3, 2022 17:21
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They're so drat good
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Nov 3, 2022 18:05
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Painted up my first Votann boy, these models are such a blast to assemble and paint. I'm in love. Just gotta do this exact paint job like 29 more times... Edit-- work's slow, here's a Khal! 
Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Nov 3, 2022 |
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Nov 3, 2022 18:14
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Serperoth posted:
Is there anything I can do to/about his tunic? I was thinking of getting a lighter shade of blue (for example Army Painter's Ultramarine Blue), thinning it out nicely, and doing a layer of it over the darker blue I have now (Cobalt Blue IIRC). Would that work, or should I wash the miniature first (thinking of black or blue, get those armor details popping), THEN lighten it?
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Nov 3, 2022 21:03
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Serperoth posted:Is there anything I can do to/about his tunic? I was thinking of getting a lighter shade of blue (for example Army Painter's Ultramarine Blue), thinning it out nicely, and doing a layer of it over the darker blue I have now (Cobalt Blue IIRC). Would that work, or should I wash the miniature first (thinking of black or blue, get those armor details popping), THEN lighten it? Get a very light yellow (like Pale Sand) and mix that with your base blue for your highlight. As to when, if you are going to wash it, do it after the wash.
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Nov 3, 2022 21:41
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vmc light flesh or sunny skintone are god tier for mixing in to make a colour lighter
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Nov 3, 2022 22:06
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Ice yellow and Sky Blue are my go tos. I'm basic
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Nov 3, 2022 22:56
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Finished up the body of this contemptor dread for my HH Iron Warriors army. Since it was so big I tried to do edge highlighting for the first time. It didn't go so great but it was fun to practice. 
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Nov 3, 2022 23:33
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Lumpy posted:Get a very light yellow (like Pale Sand) and mix that with your base blue for your highlight. As to when, if you are going to wash it, do it after the wash. jesus WEP posted:vmc light flesh or sunny skintone are god tier for mixing in to make a colour lighter Spanish Manlove posted:Ice yellow and Sky Blue are my go tos. I'm basic For those, if it'd be a highlight, I wouldn't want to cover the whole surface of it then, right? I'd want to use it on the more "outer" parts, away from the edges, or where it's covered by the armor. For example, using the rear as a larger area, it'd be in the red areas, but not the yellow, or am I getting it mixed up?  It was only looking at this that I realize how uneven the light when I was taking the picture was, but I was in a bit of a hurry. The shield (and sword) are still unpainted by the way, that tree in the front has me still very apprehensive, and I want to pick some nice colours for it rather than black/white/grey/silver/brown
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Nov 4, 2022 09:56
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Serperoth posted:For those, if it'd be a highlight, I wouldn't want to cover the whole surface of it then, right? I'd want to use it on the more "outer" parts, away from the edges, or where it's covered by the armor. For example, using the rear as a larger area, it'd be in the red areas, but not the yellow, or am I getting it mixed up? Just think "what is facing my imaginary light source". You can even put your mini under a lamp: where is the light catching? The middle of those areas are where your highlights go. Then in the middle of those highlights, you make smaller, brighter highlights, mixing in more of your light color. Attached is a horrible example of where I would guess some decent highlight placements would go done in Preview.app. Obviously you'd build them up with thin layers so there was smooth transitions (or not, your call!) Something fun to note is that the lightest ones are actually green, but your brain will say "warm light reflecting off of blue" because that is what we actually see in reality.
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Nov 4, 2022 16:24
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Lumpy posted:Just think "what is facing my imaginary light source". You can even put your mini under a lamp: where is the light catching? The middle of those areas are where your highlights go. Then in the middle of those highlights, you make smaller, brighter highlights, mixing in more of your light color. Attached is a horrible example of where I would guess some decent highlight placements would go done in Preview.app. Obviously you'd build them up with thin layers so there was smooth transitions (or not, your call!) Something fun to note is that the lightest ones are actually green, but your brain will say "warm light reflecting off of blue" because that is what we actually see in reality. Seeing it like this makes a lot of sense to me, thank you. Like I wouldn't be making his tunic a lighter blue overall, it'd be a dark blue tunic, that the sun is hitting at X angle so these spots are lit, so the color that hits the eye is brighter. An angle like what you mentioned seems like a good fit for it too, I'll wash the guy Monday and see what feels best.
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Nov 5, 2022 09:57
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Serperoth posted:Seeing it like this makes a lot of sense to me, thank you. Like I wouldn't be making his tunic a lighter blue overall, it'd be a dark blue tunic, that the sun is hitting at X angle so these spots are lit, so the color that hits the eye is brighter. An angle like what you mentioned seems like a good fit for it too, I'll wash the guy Monday and see what feels best. Take a flashlight and shine it on the model and see what happens to the edges. But really the whole idea of volumetric highlights like what's been suggested is to help the human eye see such a tiny model from farther away. Your eyes work by "edge detection" where you tell where one object ends and another starts by a change in color between the two. This is also why panel lining and pin washing are so effective for models. There was this ultra black matte paint that a bunch of YouTubers made gimmick videos out of and turns out when you make something completely black with almost no reflective light the models details will be completely unidentifiable The tunic will still appear to be dark because the majority of it will be dark, it's just that on the raised edges that will catch light the main dark blue color will be broken up and be able to be read as something other than a formless blue blob. When you paint something well you're trying to make the model look like it's in the best lighting possible. Look at some models on games workshops website or whatever game company of choice and see how they paint cloth. The majority of the cloth will be a single color but the surfaces facing the ambient light source will get some lighter colors as that's what they would do at full scale naturally.
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Nov 5, 2022 13:24
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One of the tutorials I am following used blister foam to apply weathering, and after a move, I honestly can't find any old blisters to grab the foam from. Anyone have any thoughts as to an alternative? I feel like Mr. Clean erasers are too dense, and regular sponge would be not dense enough.
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Nov 5, 2022 16:04
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Acidix posted:One of the tutorials I am following used blister foam to apply weathering, and after a move, I honestly can't find any old blisters to grab the foam from. Anyone have any thoughts as to an alternative? I feel like Mr. Clean erasers are too dense, and regular sponge would be not dense enough. Cheap-rear end sponge scourers for washing dishes are a very similar texture to the packing sponge from blister packs (the sponge bit, not the scourer bit). Personally I picked up a cheap pack of natural sponges/sea sponges in an art store (or you can get a sea sponge bath loofah or similar and tear bits off that). Its not as closed/regular as a man made sponge but honestly I find that irregularity better for doing weathering.
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Nov 5, 2022 16:13
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Acidix posted:One of the tutorials I am following used blister foam to apply weathering, and after a move, I honestly can't find any old blisters to grab the foam from. Anyone have any thoughts as to an alternative? I feel like Mr. Clean erasers are too dense, and regular sponge would be not dense enough. Pluck foam trays from army transport cases have been my go-to for years.
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Nov 5, 2022 17:43
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Dont use foam for admech, tho. Theyve got too many fiddly bits that get stuck on anything and everything
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Nov 5, 2022 17:57
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Acidix posted:One of the tutorials I am following used blister foam to apply weathering, and after a move, I honestly can't find any old blisters to grab the foam from. Anyone have any thoughts as to an alternative? I feel like Mr. Clean erasers are too dense, and regular sponge would be not dense enough. Facial scrubbing wedges from the dollar store are great for chipping
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Nov 5, 2022 21:42
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Finished another 4 battletech mechs. 
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Nov 5, 2022 22:12
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Acidix posted:One of the tutorials I am following used blister foam to apply weathering, and after a move, I honestly can't find any old blisters to grab the foam from. Anyone have any thoughts as to an alternative? I feel like Mr. Clean erasers are too dense, and regular sponge would be not dense enough. aquarium filter sponges are really good for this. big open cell structure, and a 10 dollar filter can last a long time depending on how you use it.
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Nov 5, 2022 22:58
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Been in a bit of a hobby slump the last month or two. Wanted to want to paint, had figures on the painting desk, but nope. Got one base colour down hoping that would then motivate me to keep going but... still nope. So I took the advice I always give when other people are feeling like that and tried something a bit different but related. Dug out some terrain that was sitting in the bottom of a box, painted that and had a lot of fun with it.... But still could not motivate myself to paint figures. Scratch built a simple wee piece of terrain, painted that up over a couple of evenings, interspersed with a few evenings of not even thinking about anything hobby related to take the pressure I was kind of putting on myself back off and that combination finally did it. TL:DR - I'm back on my bullshit. All Malifaux, a "Last Blossom" Ten Thunders crew. Second edition figures. Wanted to give the new(-ish) contrast yellow a try, I have to say, its pretty good. Misaki Katanaka, crew leader, and her   Ototo and Yamizako. Talking of not fitting on the base, at least in Ototos case its obviously deliberate, and kind of hilarious. It did mean I had to glue some scraps of metal to the underside of his base to shift its centre of balance enough for it to stay upright on its own. Yamizako was kind of a gently caress up. I bought her already assembled, and saw there was a bit of a seam/gap but thought it was small enough that I'd get away with being lazy and not filling it. The contrast paint of course immediately made it look like the grand canyon, so I went back and tried to fill it when it was already primed and partially painted, then had to try and cover the bit I'd fixed and get it to blend... Not the easiest thing with contrast paints, and the sprue goo kind of did not get on with the primer on the cloak, caused some little texture issues. Not as obvious in person, but easily my least favourite model out the crew and the last thing I needed tbh.   The Minions, one Katanaka Sniper (there is a rifle on his back I swear) and 3 Torakage. It just really amuses me to have stealth assassins painted canary yellow, but I did at least tone it down a bit for the sniper. By the time I got to the Torakage I was back in my stride and enjoying painting again, they're probably my favourites out this crew.   Crew group shot; 
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Nov 6, 2022 00:48
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What if I made my Kommando Nob Terry Bogard from king of fighters and fatal fury?  lol the more I think of it the more appealing the idea is to me, shame there's no hair to make blonde lol.
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Nov 6, 2022 14:53
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Finished the dragon.    (Hatchet job background removal - nasty rear end painting desk needs a tidy.)
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Nov 6, 2022 18:54
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Sick dragon!! How do you do the glow like that?
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Nov 6, 2022 21:37
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Al-Saqr posted:What if I made my Kommando Nob Terry Bogard from king of fighters and fatal fury? IZ YOU OKAY? BUSTA WAAAGH
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Nov 6, 2022 21:41
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Sick dragon!! How do you do the glow like that? Green ink in resin for the flames, poured over crinkledup saran wrap then hit with a uv light, then a bit of yellow ink for the bottom by airbrush, darker green for the top. For the neck I mixed white ink and flow improver to paint in the scars recesses. Then green flourescent paint with lime green ink all over with the airbrush, then pour out some of the mixture into the pallette, add flow improver and yellow ink and paint that into most of the recess, then remove most of the mixture and add white ink so it's a barely yellow white, then paint that in selectively.
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Nov 6, 2022 23:05
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Al-Saqr posted:What if I made my Kommando Nob Terry Bogard from king of fighters and fatal fury? This is incredible
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Nov 7, 2022 00:26
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Silhouette posted:IZ YOU OKAY?
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Nov 7, 2022 00:53
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  Tried a painting exercise today - three paints (Prussian Blue, Magenta, and Yellow) plus black and white, two hours, and trying to keep things interesting and avoiding the use of any unmixed paints. I think it came out okay given how mediocre of a painter I am.
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Nov 7, 2022 02:53
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I recently was gifted an army painter wargamer paint set. Does anyone have a site or video they could recommend that says which ones are going to be particularly crappy or specifically good?
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Nov 7, 2022 04:25
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Improbable Lobster posted:I recently was gifted an army painter wargamer paint set. Does anyone have a site or video they could recommend that says which ones are going to be particularly crappy or specifically good? I haven't run into any "crappy" ones, and I have a lot. Like most paint ranges, you just need to get used to them. The lighter greens are very transparent, and you need to shake the heck out of all them (or use a vortex mixer) but all in all, I like the whole range.
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Nov 7, 2022 04:28
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  Glazing over metallics with speedpaint is just so god drat satisfying. Starting to crank out some holiday gifts . If I understand the idea of airbrushing contrast paints and their ilk, this is what In doing: -prime black. -airbrush on some Vallejo metal chainmail with a drop of speedpaint dark blue -zenithal of Vallejo metal silver -glaze with speedpaint. Apply extra if you want the color to pool and wash an area instead w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Nov 7, 2022 |
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Nov 7, 2022 05:50
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Things I learned while magnetizing the Redemptor: 3x1 are slightly too big and I should have used 2x1 Don't cut the tab off to fit a magnet in there, dig deeper into the gun shoulder instead, or the strength of the magnet will not be enough to hold the gun up, you need the magnet and the tension.
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Nov 7, 2022 06:13
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Silhouette posted:IZ YOU OKAY? Count Thrashula posted:This is incredible Lol ok then, it's settled, I'm gonna theme the orks as fighting game and shooter game Characters. The team name will be:- KINGZ O' FITIN' The roster will take direct color pallete inspiration from:- Terry Bogard and king of fighters Metal slug (Marco and Tarma) Ikari Warriors Street fighters other fighting and shooting games other names can be:- IKAREE WAAARGHIAZ, METAL SLUGZ. this will be the team banner, I made it me-self! 
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Nov 7, 2022 10:36
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