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CordlessPen
Jan 8, 2004

I told you so...

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

It happens most often under specific load patterns, like game menus and splash screens that display at hundreds of frames per second. My 4090 was doing it for a while but it's a lot less noticeable now.

Also, no offense, but I really hope you didn't pay the price you linked for that GPU, considering you can get a 4090 that's ~65% faster for the same price...

That's CAD, 4090s are 2200$ (MSRP) here. But you can't find them anyway.

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Bouchehog
Dec 19, 2002

The Campaign for Badger Rights

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Are both of those fans intake? If you put the components in you plan to into a traditional case, they are going to absolutely cook with that air pattern. Cooling a PC is an exercise in moving heated air out of a space and replacing it with cooler air along a preset path.

You have plans for extremely spicy components. And in order to cool them, you need to very quickly replace the hot air they generate with fresh cool air.

...

Realistically, now that I’ve seen an image and have a better understanding, the only way you’re not gonna have a bad time here is if you use something like the xproto, seal off the back of the cabinet, add one new fan on each side of the cabinet, and run them intake on one side, exhaust on the other.

If you wanna be really crazy you could custom loop and run the radiators outside of the cabinet, but that’s way more complicated.

They're currently in a push-pull configuration. I have a Intel Core i7-8700K cooled by an AIO Corsair H100i 77 and a Windforce 2080 all sitting on a ASRock Fatal1ty Z370 housed in a Corsair Obsidian Series 250D Mini ITX. Sitting in ambient of c.20°C the CPU is at 35°C and the GPU at 53°C shortly after some FPS games (PUBG).

I appreciate that the draw on the i7-8700K is only 95W (slightly more when OC'd) and the GPU is 215W and that I'm talking about a very significant uplift on this. Ultimately if the thermals on whatever rig I go for don't work in the desk I will try adding more cooling to the desk; if that doesn't work then I will have to move the PC outside the desk. It wouldn't be the end of the world if I had to do that. But if I had to do that I would definitely want a case, not an open test-bench-style design. The additional insulation from the case may make this a fait accompli but I cannot currently see any realistic option other than the O11 Air at the moment.


KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I thought about suggesting an xproto with custom loop out to some back side radiators but dismissed it as being a bit much. You could totally do it and I think you should. The 120s will be fine to cool the mobo and ancillaries, and you can dump a bunch of heat out the back on a big radiator or set of radiators. You might even be able to get away with two AIOs if you don't want to go full boat on custom loop.
That would certainly solve the issue but I've never done a custom loop and I fear that it would make the task of removing the PC from the desk for cleaning, upgrades, etc. too painful to bother with. I also don't know what such a long loop would do to the efficacy of the cooling - I couldn't realistically run the rads on the side of the desk and so the water would have to travel 50cm or so from the CPU to the radiator (and then back again). Also, the pump to run that much water/pressure would presumably be like listening to a Boeing 747 land.

BlueFootedBoobie
Feb 15, 2005

MarcusSA posted:

I’d spend the extra $55 on a 13700k personally.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Yeah especially for flight sims which require quite a bit of CPU power.

Gotcha - right now as I far as I can tell I'm seeing 13600ks going for $300 and 13700ks for $440. Definitely happy to spend some extra here as needed - am I missing a vendor I should be checking out?

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

BlueFootedBoobie posted:

Gotcha - right now as I far as I can tell I'm seeing 13600ks going for $300 and 13700ks for $440. Definitely happy to spend some extra here as needed - am I missing a vendor I should be checking out?



This was from micro center just a few days ago. I’d put money on it going for this price again in the very near future or it coming close to that price in a bundle.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Bouchehog posted:

They're currently in a push-pull configuration. I have a Intel Core i7-8700K cooled by an AIO Corsair H100i 77 and a Windforce 2080 all sitting on a ASRock Fatal1ty Z370 housed in a Corsair Obsidian Series 250D Mini ITX. Sitting in ambient of c.20°C the CPU is at 35°C and the GPU at 53°C shortly after some FPS games (PUBG).

I appreciate that the draw on the i7-8700K is only 95W (slightly more when OC'd) and the GPU is 215W and that I'm talking about a very significant uplift on this. Ultimately if the thermals on whatever rig I go for don't work in the desk I will try adding more cooling to the desk; if that doesn't work then I will have to move the PC outside the desk. It wouldn't be the end of the world if I had to do that. But if I had to do that I would definitely want a case, not an open test-bench-style design. The additional insulation from the case may make this a fait accompli but I cannot currently see any realistic option other than the O11 Air at the moment.

That would certainly solve the issue but I've never done a custom loop and I fear that it would make the task of removing the PC from the desk for cleaning, upgrades, etc. too painful to bother with. I also don't know what such a long loop would do to the efficacy of the cooling - I couldn't realistically run the rads on the side of the desk and so the water would have to travel 50cm or so from the CPU to the radiator (and then back again). Also, the pump to run that much water/pressure would presumably be like listening to a Boeing 747 land.

I will admit those thermals are better than I expected for the setup.

IMO Whatever case you go with, rather than mesh on the sides just leave the case doors off. That’ll solve part of the problem of the hot air exhausting in the wrong directions.

If you go with the o11, then I would set the top and side fans to exhaust, and the bottom, rear, and front fans to intake (plus leave the doors off as above). This would allow you to exhaust the case directly at the cabinet exhaust fan (assuming that’s on the right of the image), which should significantly decrease the issues I spoke about on my last post.

BlueFootedBoobie
Feb 15, 2005

MarcusSA posted:



This was from micro center just a few days ago. I’d put money on it going for this price again in the very near future or it coming close to that price in a bundle.

Of course, Microcenter! I'll keep an eye on it. Unfortunately, I haven't come across an ITX bundle.

Bouchehog
Dec 19, 2002

The Campaign for Badger Rights
What country are you in? UK
Do you live near Microcenter? It would involve a plane, so nope.
What are you using the system for? Replacing my current PC (specs here) which is currently suffering from long-COVID (see here) but specifically gaming and work. Work involves single-core OCR processing and search of 2,000 page PDF documents so clock speed is important, particularly for searching large pdfs, which can be very time-critical in my job (trial lawyer).
What's your budget? Unlimited save by common sense. I'm not looking for bragging rights, just a top end rig.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Acer Predator XB271HUA 27" 2560 x 1440 165Hz
How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? For online FPSs 2560x1440 @165 FPS on the highest settings I can achieve, other games ultra would be nice at 1440p for the next few years. I don't image that this will be an issue on my budget once I've upgraded the GPU.


PCPartPicker Part List
Case: Lian Li O11 Air Mini ATX Mid Tower Case (£106.49 @ Amazon UK)
So from a great deal of thought and becuase of the restrictions of where I’m putting it, I am effectively stuck with a build in a Lian Li O11 Air Mini or smaller. I won’t go back over the details of the previous pages. Thermals are going to be a significant issue and so the larger the case, the better, as long as it fits. The O11 Mini it is unless someone has any really good alternative suggestions (the XTIA Xproto-L or a test bench rack mounted in the diskspace are the only other viable options I think).
CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor (£455.85 @ Amazon UK)
My work is mostly single-thread dependant and so will benefit from high clock-speeds. I could see an argument for a different CPU but this seems sensible, ridiculous power draw under full load notwithstanding.
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken Z53 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£177.99 @ Box Limited)
I would prefer to air cool the system so that it is quieter when I’m working rather than gaming (when I tend to wear cans over my ears anyway) but I’m seriously worried about the thermals. The O11 manual suggests that there is 170mm clearance from the motherboard tray to the case side, so I could fit most top-end air coolers but this guy noted a huge difference using an AIO rather than an air cooler.

I love the look of the NZXT Kraken Z53 AIO (which I know from this guy can be mounted a with a front mounting and there was just enough space to fit in a ROG Strix RTX 4090 OC @ 357.5mm long). I can play with the airflow configurations to see what works but I think that I’m stuck with AIO. I understand that the noise levels are significantly higher than the Cooler Master ML240. I don’t know how big the difference would be when under little load and I could be easily persuaded away from the Kraken as the case won’t be on display in any event.

Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z690-F GAMING WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (£302.28 @ CCL Computers)
z690 or z790? From what I see, there is very little between them save for a 50% hike in the price. The Asus ROG STRIX Z690-F supports PCIe 5.0 for the GPU and has 4 M.2s and 6 SATA ports at PCIe 4.0. It also has 2x Wifi 6e (not that it will matter in this build) and BlueTooth 5.2. All I would get from the Z790 version is fewer SATA ports (not that it would matter to me) and a larger hole in my wallet.
I will likely be sticking in a 10gb ethernet card (one port so x8 would have been fine) to supplement the native 2.5gbe. I can’t find a sensible 10gbe native motherboard in ATX format (the ASUS ProArt Z690-CREATOR WIFI and the Asus ROG MAXIMUS Z690 FORMULA have 10gbe but are very expensive and I don’t know how well they will fit with a gaming and o/c build...). JayzTwoCents suggests that I could potentially fit an EATX mobo in the case, even though it was not designed for it. That would open up more sensible 10gbe options but I’m not sure that there is any real advantage over a discrete 10gbe card.

Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory (£154.98 @ NeoComputers)
I really haven’t looked into this much at all. I vaguely understand that there isn’t much benefit from the higher speeds and almost no benefit from tighter timings. I stuck the Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory in but I could afford to go for something faster if you think that it would assist.
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£126.24 @ Technextday)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£223.99 @ Technextday)
Video Card: Asus ROG STRIX GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card
I’ve yet to make up my mind on this. I will likely port my RTX 2080 over and await the latest AMD offerings and the specs of the RTX 4080 but I would at least like the option of running a RTX 4090 as I suspect that cards are unlikely to get massively more efficient next generation and I will upgrade the GPU at some point (with the intention that the rest of the build lasts 4-5years).
Power Supply: MSI A1000G PCIE5 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£221.29 @ SmartTeck.co.uk)
I can have a full ATX PSU and ATX 3.0 seems less likely to melt my GPU
Case Fans: In terms of case fans, the case comes with three but I think I will replace them and fill out every available slot on the basis that more fans = more airflow = cooler. I can mount 4x 140mm fans (2 front and 2 bottom) and 4x 120mm fans (three on the top, one rear) in addition to the 2x 120mm fans and radiator on whatever AIO cooler I go for. I was planning on going for Lian Li Uni fans but would listen to other suggestions for better cooling and/or noise.


It's been a painful lot of research to get this far, any final amendments or comments welcome before I pull the trigger!

Bouchehog
Dec 19, 2002

The Campaign for Badger Rights

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

I will admit those thermals are better than I expected for the setup.

IMO Whatever case you go with, rather than mesh on the sides just leave the case doors off. That’ll solve part of the problem of the hot air exhausting in the wrong directions.

If you go with the o11, then I would set the top and side fans to exhaust, and the bottom, rear, and front fans to intake (plus leave the doors off as above). This would allow you to exhaust the case directly at the cabinet exhaust fan (assuming that’s on the right of the image), which should significantly decrease the issues I spoke about on my last post.

A sound plan, particularly as the left side of the case is tempered glass. The cabinet intake is left and exhaust right as you suggest (right is under the desk and has less airflow so I though the left intake would be cooler air). I'm going to start ordering bits this week, so I will post thermals for the completed rig in idle and under full load.

ughhhh
Oct 17, 2012

Bouchehog posted:

CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken Z53 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£177.99 @ Box Limited)
[i] I would prefer to air cool the system so that it is quieter when I’m working rather than gaming (when I tend to wear cans over my ears anyway) but I’m seriously worried about the thermals. The O11 manual suggests that there is 170mm clearance from the motherboard tray to the case side, so I could fit most top-end air coolers but this guy noted a huge difference using an AIO rather than an air cooler.

That really wierd. there are a couple of builds with the D15 fitting nicely in that case. Spec wise Lian Li states 170mm clearance while my Lian Li tu150 is stated to have 165mm clearance and fits perfectly.

lih
May 15, 2013

Just a friendly reminder of what it looks like.

We'll do punctuation later.

BlueFootedBoobie posted:

I finally decided it's time to move on from my trusty Kaby Lake/1070 combo that has served me well for years.

What country are you in?
USA
Do you live near Microcenter?
Yes
What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting?
Games - DCS/MSFS being the most demanding.
What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so.
~2000
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get.
Currently on 1440/60 but will be picking up a 4k/144 in the near future and would like to be pretty close to ultra even then.
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow?
N/A

Notes:
- Going to wait till the new AMDs are out/reviewed/benchmarked to make a final call on the GPU, but will likely go with the 7900XTX.

- No intention of overclocking, is just looks that z790 option could be best value option?

- I know the Louqe has it's shortcomings, but I really liked its look and coming from a Node 202 I really wanted to keep the case small and vertical. From what I've read the thermal issues are managable and the price was right with the recent sale.

- I know the WD SN750 is well liked, but I'm seeing the Black and 980 going for the same price when it comes to PCIe 4?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($300.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 Ghost S1 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($54.93 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z790M-ITX WIFI Mini ITX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 Memory ($162.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($219.00 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair SF750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - Download 64-bit (Purchased For $20.00)
Case Fan: Noctua Ax25 chromax 60.09 CFM 120 mm Fan ($32.90 @ Amazon)
Custom: LOUQE RAW S1 (Purchased For $159.00)
Total: $1328.80
it's the SN570 that's well liked, not the SN750 (which is outright bad for its current prices). if there's some reason you really really want a PCIe 4 drive the SN770 is cheaper than that Samsung drive and still very good, or the Kingston KC3000 is about the fastest drive you can get and it's cheaper too.

i really don't like the idea of trying to make that case work with such power hungry components idk. the CPU will probably throttle with that cooler but idk if there's any better options in such a restricted case.

i probably wouldn't pair that motherboard with the 13600K idk (it's lacking heatsinks on some of the VRMs), the Asrock Z690 Phantom Gaming-ITX looks like the best value ITX board for what you want

750W PSU is not going to be enough - you'd likely need at least 850W minimum

lih fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Nov 10, 2022

Elephant Ambush
Nov 13, 2012

...We sholde spenden more time together. What sayest thou?
Nap Ghost
Thanks to the help from this thread I just ordered by new PC parts! :toot:

Is this the right place to ask for 4k monitor recommendations? I just casually searched for ' 4k pc monitor gaming 32" ' and I was surprised how affordable they are. The non-curved ones are around $300 and that's something I can definitely afford. Are there any recommended brands or brands I should stay away from?

BlueFootedBoobie
Feb 15, 2005

lih posted:

it's the SN570 that's well liked, not the SN750 (which is outright bad for its current prices). if there's some reason you really really want a PCIe 4 drive the SN770 is cheaper than that Samsung drive and still very good, or the Kingston KC3000 is about the fastest drive you can get and it's cheaper too.

i really don't like the idea of trying to make that case work with such power hungry components idk. the CPU will probably throttle with that cooler but idk if there's any better options in such a restricted case.

i probably wouldn't pair that motherboard with the 13600K idk (it's lacking heatsinks on some of the VRMs), the Asrock Z690 Phantom Gaming-ITX looks like the best value ITX board for what you want

750W PSU is not going to be enough - you'd likely need at least 850W minimum

Thanks, went through and made some tweaks.

Worst come to worst, if the thermals don't work I'll swap cases.

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


Elephant Ambush posted:

Thanks to the help from this thread I just ordered by new PC parts! :toot:

Is this the right place to ask for 4k monitor recommendations? I just casually searched for ' 4k pc monitor gaming 32" ' and I was surprised how affordable they are. The non-curved ones are around $300 and that's something I can definitely afford. Are there any recommended brands or brands I should stay away from?

Probably a good idea to ask in the Monitor Thread as well.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Elephant Ambush posted:

Thanks to the help from this thread I just ordered by new PC parts! :toot:

Is this the right place to ask for 4k monitor recommendations? I just casually searched for ' 4k pc monitor gaming 32" ' and I was surprised how affordable they are. The non-curved ones are around $300 and that's something I can definitely afford. Are there any recommended brands or brands I should stay away from?

The $300 ones are gonna be 60Hz. Some of those are probably fine if you're okay being capped at 60 fps, but actual 4K high-refresh gaming monitors will run you more. 32" ones start at $600 right now, though we've seen one go on sale for as low as $550. It's still pretty expensive, but it's nowhere near as bad as what pricing looked like a year ago, where you were looking at paying a grand for a 32" 4K 144Hz monitor.

Elephant Ambush
Nov 13, 2012

...We sholde spenden more time together. What sayest thou?
Nap Ghost
Thanks! I'll ask in the other thread :tipshat:

Stanos
Sep 22, 2009

The best 57 in hockey.
I'm currently spitballing an upgrade as I miss having double monitors and it's time to go back to the desktop life over the mainly laptop life and get more power over portability.

What country are you in?

USA

Do you live near Microcenter?

Close enough that if I can save a couple hundred dollars I would drive there.

What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting?

Web browsing, gaming (I don't need max settings but it'd be nice to see some shinier stuff in newer games or not hear my poor old "gaming" laptop cry out in pain), light streaming for a small audience if I feel saucy. I have been playing PSO2: NGS lately and would play some more modern action games with a better setup. I've also been playing around in Blender and Godot lately so running those without major burps would be nice.

What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so.

$2000 is my tip top max and I would need a really good reason to go that far as I also need a couple monitors and a new desk. Realistically I would be happy to get under $1600 if possible.

If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get.

I figured I might as well go for 1440p/144hz, I have no ambitions of 4k or real desire to spend the money on that sort of setup. I value it running well over max graphics, if I have to tone a few things down that's acceptable for a solid frame rate.

If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow?

I will probably continue working my email job on my laptop but as I mentioned earlier I am playing around in Godot and Blender lately (nothing major, mostly learning and some fun stuff) so consideration for this would be appreciated if I continue with it.


I have asked a few people in my friend circle for advice who upgraded recently and I have been recommended a Ryzen 7 5800X3D and an RTX 3060 Ti for my price range, whether this is the most correct answer or not I'm not sure on. Haven't really followed PC trends lately besides secondhand stuff from friends who were upgrading over the past couple of years. My initial poke at making something is here:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor ($420.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B 39.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($65.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550-PLUS WIFI II ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ ASUS)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI VENTUS 2X OCV1 GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR 8 GB Video Card ($449.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H510 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Best Buy)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1545.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-09 20:06 EST-0500

Absolutely open to changes or tweaks on things, it's very rough and initial and was mostly to give me a vague idea on pricing/feeling things out. Any advice would be appreciated, thank you. I do however need wifi in some form as my living space doesn't currently allow for me to be hooked up physically to the router.

lih
May 15, 2013

Just a friendly reminder of what it looks like.

We'll do punctuation later.
the 5800X3D at $420 is not a very good deal at the moment, it's been available for much cheaper recently (maybe still is somewhere idk). the 13600KF is just a better option there.

looks like there are cheaper 3060 Tis available than that? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9m3gXL/zotac-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-lhr-8-gb-gaming-twin-edge-oc-video-card-zt-a30610h-10mlhr

would also contemplate stepping up to the 3070/maybe even stepping down to the 5600 to save if necessary and min/max performance since you'll be GPU bottlenecked but idk

doesn't really make much sense to get that SATA drive when you could get the 2TB WD SN570 for about the same price as the two drives combined?

there are probably microcenter deals that change all this up though

unpronounceable
Apr 4, 2010

You mean we still have another game to go through?!
Fallen Rib
How much clearance should I give a gpu's fans, or more specifically, how many pcie slots should I leave empty?

I currently have one slot between my capture card and my 2 slot 1060 6GB, which has been fine for me so far. I'm not looking to upgrade it right now, but I am looking at upgrading my CPU, so I want to know if I should be budgeting for an ATX case instead of just reusing my mATX one, especially since newer cards seem notably more power hungry.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Stanos posted:

I'm currently spitballing an upgrade as I miss having double monitors and it's time to go back to the desktop life over the mainly laptop life and get more power over portability.

What country are you in?

USA

Do you live near Microcenter?

Close enough that if I can save a couple hundred dollars I would drive there.

What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting?

Web browsing, gaming (I don't need max settings but it'd be nice to see some shinier stuff in newer games or not hear my poor old "gaming" laptop cry out in pain), light streaming for a small audience if I feel saucy. I have been playing PSO2: NGS lately and would play some more modern action games with a better setup. I've also been playing around in Blender and Godot lately so running those without major burps would be nice.

What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so.

$2000 is my tip top max and I would need a really good reason to go that far as I also need a couple monitors and a new desk. Realistically I would be happy to get under $1600 if possible.

If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get.

I figured I might as well go for 1440p/144hz, I have no ambitions of 4k or real desire to spend the money on that sort of setup. I value it running well over max graphics, if I have to tone a few things down that's acceptable for a solid frame rate.

If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow?

I will probably continue working my email job on my laptop but as I mentioned earlier I am playing around in Godot and Blender lately (nothing major, mostly learning and some fun stuff) so consideration for this would be appreciated if I continue with it.


I have asked a few people in my friend circle for advice who upgraded recently and I have been recommended a Ryzen 7 5800X3D and an RTX 3060 Ti for my price range, whether this is the most correct answer or not I'm not sure on. Haven't really followed PC trends lately besides secondhand stuff from friends who were upgrading over the past couple of years. My initial poke at making something is here:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor ($420.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B 39.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($65.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550-PLUS WIFI II ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ ASUS)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI VENTUS 2X OCV1 GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR 8 GB Video Card ($449.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H510 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Best Buy)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1545.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-09 20:06 EST-0500

Absolutely open to changes or tweaks on things, it's very rough and initial and was mostly to give me a vague idea on pricing/feeling things out. Any advice would be appreciated, thank you. I do however need wifi in some form as my living space doesn't currently allow for me to be hooked up physically to the router.

I'll second switching things to a 3070/5600 combo instead of 3060 Ti/5800 X3D. You'll get a decent boost to overall gaming performance that way. Don't get me wrong, the 5800X3D is an incredible gaming CPU. But when paired with a 3060 Ti at 1440p, you're not really going to be using it to the fullest. Especially if you're not big into sim titles or strategy games, where it can shine irrespective of the GPU it's paired with. The 5600 is currently $300 cheaper than the only in-stock 5800X3Ds, and that's money well-saved in my opinion. If you go the 5600 route, you can safely downgrade the cooler to a single-tower one (e.g. the Deepcool AK400), which will save even more money.

unpronounceable posted:

How much clearance should I give a gpu's fans, or more specifically, how many pcie slots should I leave empty?

I currently have one slot between my capture card and my 2 slot 1060 6GB, which has been fine for me so far. I'm not looking to upgrade it right now, but I am looking at upgrading my CPU, so I want to know if I should be budgeting for an ATX case instead of just reusing my mATX one, especially since newer cards seem notably more power hungry.

One slot is fine for a 1060 with a decent cooler. For an upgraded GPU down the line, I'd probably want at least two slots worth of space. But it really depends on the size of the capture card relative to the size of the new GPU, as well as the airflow patterns of the case. If you have bottom intake for instance, the GPU fans will likely be able to pull the fresh intake around the capture card while only having to work a little harder than usual to do so. And the current GPU coolers may be a good twice as long as a capture card, making this less of an issue. But if you don't have bottom intake and are using an mATX case, then the capture card may just end up obstructing the front-intake and limiting the amount of air the GPU fans can pull in. I wouldn't recommend this for a modern high-end GPU, but it's probably fine for a 1060.

If you're going to be upgrading the CPU and motherboard anyway, I'd probably go full ATX and get a midtower, though I admittedly don't have much affinity for the mATX form factor.

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



Hasturtium posted:

I have a question which I know will be dumb, but here goes. Bear with me.

A family member is giving me back an FX-6300 box I loaned them so long ago I’d forgotten about it. It’s not horrid - EVGA 450W power supply I installed myself, 16GB RAM, 256GB SSD, and an Asus M5A97 motherboard with UEFI - aside from some old Terascale Radeon I threw in there for office work. Upgrading that would probably be insane, but if I were to explore new vistas in CPU-hobbled gaming, how dreadful a bottleneck would that be for an RX 6600 or RTX 3050?

Until 2020 I was running a Phenom II x4 965BE with a 1060 6GB, and the thing still runs surprisingly well. In the last year I played Dying Light on it at 1440p with settings dialed down a bit, but it was totally playable, and that's an even older CPU than the FX-6300. Some games wouldn't run at all on it due to missing instruction sets, so that might come into play with an FX as well, but I didn't look into it too closely. You will absolutely be CPU-bottlenecked - when I played Fallout 4 on that machine it would start to bog down if I built up my settlements too much, not quite to slideshow levels but going that direction.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my old machine, since it runs just fine and for someone who isn't gaming it is still perfectly fast. It got replaced as my secondary desktop with a machine I built around my old 3600X and 2070 Super, and I need to decide what to do with the storage drives in it, but for any purpose aside from gaming it is still perfectly competent, and even in gaming the thing has some life left in it.

Hasturtium
May 19, 2020

And that year, for his birthday, he got six pink ping pong balls in a little pink backpack.

CaptainSarcastic posted:

Until 2020 I was running a Phenom II x4 965BE with a 1060 6GB, and the thing still runs surprisingly well. In the last year I played Dying Light on it at 1440p with settings dialed down a bit, but it was totally playable, and that's an even older CPU than the FX-6300. Some games wouldn't run at all on it due to missing instruction sets, so that might come into play with an FX as well, but I didn't look into it too closely. You will absolutely be CPU-bottlenecked - when I played Fallout 4 on that machine it would start to bog down if I built up my settlements too much, not quite to slideshow levels but going that direction.

I'm trying to decide what to do with my old machine, since it runs just fine and for someone who isn't gaming it is still perfectly fast. It got replaced as my secondary desktop with a machine I built around my old 3600X and 2070 Super, and I need to decide what to do with the storage drives in it, but for any purpose aside from gaming it is still perfectly competent, and even in gaming the thing has some life left in it.

God, Phenom II’s were solid. They were like the last, best distillation of K8 with fast SIMD - that architecture was built to last. Absolutely hand that machine off to someone who can use it - clean it, toss in a video card befitting its retirement from active gaming duties, and let it ride out the decade elsewhere.

I think Phenom instruction set support topped out around SSSE3/SSE4a, and newer titles have started presuming SSE4.x support. The FX chips should be good through AVX1, even if they’re pretty pokey in absolute terms. Buying an Intel Arc A750 for my main machine freed up the GTX 970 I’d been limping along on. I guess my question now is whether to pop the 970 into the FX machine and run it like it’s 2014, or sell that card to partly defray spending $200+ on lurid curiosity and bring raytracing and DLSS to a machine people gleefully cast aside when Zen 1 landed in 2017. Thanks, goon!

Hasturtium fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Nov 10, 2022

Balloon Time Hooray!
Apr 18, 2007
Maybe you're not an ugly human being but a good looking ape... with exceptional verbal skills.
Still using a 965BE + 970 as an HTPC. Can't do AV1 decode without stuttering, but otherwise up to the task.

Bloopsy
Jun 1, 2006

you have been visited by the Tasty Garlic Bread. you will be blessed by having good Garlic Bread in your life time, but only if you comment "ty garlic bread" in the thread below
I’m looking to grab a 2tb gen 4 m.2 that will be used in a gaming only build. Any recommendations for under $200?

Epiphyte
Apr 7, 2006


OK, my 3570K system is officially 10 years old, so thinking it is about time for an upgrade

What country are you in?

USA

Do you live near Microcenter?

No, but I do fly to Cleveland for work every other month, so I in theory could pick up something there, but I'd worry about anything that might need returned

What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting?

Web browsing, light gaming (1080p and my backlog is so massive that I'll likely spend a lot of time catching up on the last 5 years or so of games)

What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so.

Around 850-900

If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get.

1080P - I don't have g/free-sync though so I do like to run V-sync

If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow?

Just light excel/Office and web browsing

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($158.00 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B 39.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($55.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Adorama)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($97.08 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Torrent ATX Mid Tower Case ($167.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.45 @ Amazon)
Total: $842.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-10 11:53 EST-0500

I plan to re-use my 1660 Super from my current build at least until next spring when I get my bonus, will look at an upgrade at that point. TO cover myself, I gave myself some extra space on the PSU wattage

This was mostly compiled from what I've absorbed from GN on youtube and browsing the thread, but I am open to any changes. I also have an echo-y office, so a quieter/cooler system would be nice. I have a Define R5 case now, but from what I've been reading, it seems that a good airflow case is actually quieter now than wrapping everything in acoustic foam

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Looks good.

Consider an 850w if there’s one at near price. 850w is probably the minimum I’d recommend with current GPUs and it’s only going to get worse.

Epiphyte
Apr 7, 2006


Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Looks good.

Consider an 850w if there’s one at near price. 850w is probably the minimum I’d recommend with current GPUs and it’s only going to get worse.
I believe people have said SuperFLower is actually good, so this should fit the bill for only about 10 bucks more

Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($117.29 @ Amazon)
Total: $117.29

unpronounceable
Apr 4, 2010

You mean we still have another game to go through?!
Fallen Rib

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

One slot is fine for a 1060 with a decent cooler. For an upgraded GPU down the line, I'd probably want at least two slots worth of space. But it really depends on the size of the capture card relative to the size of the new GPU, as well as the airflow patterns of the case. If you have bottom intake for instance, the GPU fans will likely be able to pull the fresh intake around the capture card while only having to work a little harder than usual to do so. And the current GPU coolers may be a good twice as long as a capture card, making this less of an issue. But if you don't have bottom intake and are using an mATX case, then the capture card may just end up obstructing the front-intake and limiting the amount of air the GPU fans can pull in. I wouldn't recommend this for a modern high-end GPU, but it's probably fine for a 1060.

If you're going to be upgrading the CPU and motherboard anyway, I'd probably go full ATX and get a midtower, though I admittedly don't have much affinity for the mATX form factor.
Thanks. I took a look, and my capture card measures about 5.5 inches from the bracket, and just eyeballing some coolers lengths, it looks like any multi fan cooler will have at least one fan pretty open.

Tbh, i don’t even remember why i went mATX for my current machine. It must have just been that I looked the look of the Fractal Design Define mini most of cases in my budget at the time. Their pop air looks good, so I’ll probably keep an eye on that one

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Epiphyte posted:

OK, my 3570K system is officially 10 years old, so thinking it is about time for an upgrade

What country are you in?

USA

Do you live near Microcenter?

No, but I do fly to Cleveland for work every other month, so I in theory could pick up something there, but I'd worry about anything that might need returned

What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting?

Web browsing, light gaming (1080p and my backlog is so massive that I'll likely spend a lot of time catching up on the last 5 years or so of games)

What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so.

Around 850-900

If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Seriously answer this. It drastically changes the recommendations you will get.

1080P - I don't have g/free-sync though so I do like to run V-sync

If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow?

Just light excel/Office and web browsing

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($158.00 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B 39.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($55.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Adorama)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($97.08 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Torrent ATX Mid Tower Case ($167.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.45 @ Amazon)
Total: $842.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-10 11:53 EST-0500

I plan to re-use my 1660 Super from my current build at least until next spring when I get my bonus, will look at an upgrade at that point. TO cover myself, I gave myself some extra space on the PSU wattage

This was mostly compiled from what I've absorbed from GN on youtube and browsing the thread, but I am open to any changes. I also have an echo-y office, so a quieter/cooler system would be nice. I have a Define R5 case now, but from what I've been reading, it seems that a good airflow case is actually quieter now than wrapping everything in acoustic foam

You could save a bit with a 5600 too: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PgcG3C/amd-ryzen-5-5600-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000927box

No real downside, and it’s almost $40 less with the rebate.

As for the case, what you stated is accurate by and large. You’re not running anything too spicy with this build though, so I’d say feel free to reuse the one you have. Maybe consider upgrading that if and when you spring for a more powerful GPU. You ought to consider a nicer display if you do upgrade your graphics card too.

Phlegmish
Jul 2, 2011



Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Looks good.

Consider an 850w if there’s one at near price. 850w is probably the minimum I’d recommend with current GPUs and it’s only going to get worse.

Is this a universal recommendation? I just ordered a PC with a 750w PSU (same one as Epiphyte picked originally, in fact) :ohdear:

Has it really changed that much over time? When I chose the components for my current PC six years ago, I remember people telling me that 750w was probably overkill.

lih
May 15, 2013

Just a friendly reminder of what it looks like.

We'll do punctuation later.
at the high-end 850W is necessary but if you're just getting something midrange then 650W or 750W is going to be fine. they just really started pushing power consumption at the high-end in the last few generations and even the midrange has gone up

your 12600K + 3070 build should be fine with 750W yeah.

Bloopsy posted:

I’m looking to grab a 2tb gen 4 m.2 that will be used in a gaming only build. Any recommendations for under $200?

the WD SN770 is a generally solid choice but looking on PCPP the Klevv CRAS C920 and Lexar Professional NM800PRO are around the same price and are supposed to be a fair bit faster (not that you'll notice unless the difference ends up mattering with DirectStorage) but there's not as much in the way of reviews for them

lih fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Nov 10, 2022

Phlegmish
Jul 2, 2011



lih posted:

at the high-end 850W is necessary but if you're just getting something midrange then 650W or 750W is going to be fine. they just really started pushing power consumption at the high-end in the last few generations and even the midrange has gone up

your 12600K + 3070 build should be fine with 750W yeah.

Alright, good to know, thanks. I didn't realize power requirements had been creeping up over the past few years, that's something I'll try to keep in mind.

Scoss
Aug 17, 2015
Amended part list based on suggestions and more tinkering:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($118.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($157.53 @ Amazon)
Video Card: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB Video Card ($400.00)
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Asus ROG Strix 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1076.37

Changed:

Switched to Ryzen 5600, aftermarket CPU heatsink, b550 mobo, cheaper M2 drive, better case, different PSU.

Do I need to pick up some thermal paste or is it fine to use whatever comes with the thermalright cooler? (Does thermal compound go bad in the tube? I have a few lying around from past builds)

If I understand correctly, this MSI board allows you to flash the bios without any CPU seated, so there's no risk of being stranded if I get very unlucky and wind up with an older board?

How does the PSU look? This one seems closer to my power requirements and cheaper while also being gold and still modular. PCPP estimates the total wattage at 374, so 550 seems okay? (There is almost no chance that an xx80 or xx90 card will ever sit inside this machine)

Open to suggestions for better memory kits if there's obvious low-hanging fruit.

Scoss fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Nov 10, 2022

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Phlegmish posted:

Is this a universal recommendation? I just ordered a PC with a 750w PSU (same one as Epiphyte picked originally, in fact) :ohdear:

Has it really changed that much over time? When I chose the components for my current PC six years ago, I remember people telling me that 750w was probably overkill.

No.

That recommendation was specific to that user because they were explicit about upgrading the GPU in the near future.

750w would be the minimum I’d recommend in any new build (outside budget crunching or lack of good deals) due to it being not much higher cost + gives you upgrade headroom.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
You should get a beefier PSU in case you want to upgrade video cards or to like a 5800X3D or something down the road. If you want to run say, a 3080 at some point in the future, or a 4080, you should have a 750W PSU. It's not expensive to buy a better PSU. The Super Flower 850W posted earlier on this page is $117. Over a five year lifespan that is an incremental $9/year.

Bloopsy
Jun 1, 2006

you have been visited by the Tasty Garlic Bread. you will be blessed by having good Garlic Bread in your life time, but only if you comment "ty garlic bread" in the thread below

lih posted:


the WD SN770 is a generally solid choice but looking on PCPP the Klevv CRAS C920 and Lexar Professional NM800PRO are around the same price and are supposed to be a fair bit faster (not that you'll notice unless the difference ends up mattering with DirectStorage) but there's not as much in the way of reviews for them

Thanks. Microcenter had the SN770 in stock at $179.99 so I went with that.

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



Scoss posted:

Amended part list based on suggestions and more tinkering:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($118.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($157.53 @ Amazon)
Video Card: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB Video Card ($400.00)
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Asus ROG Strix 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1076.37

Changed:

Switched to Ryzen 5600, aftermarket CPU heatsink, b550 mobo, cheaper M2 drive, better case, different PSU.

Do I need to pick up some thermal paste or is it fine to use whatever comes with the thermalright cooler? (Does thermal compound go bad in the tube? I have a few lying around from past builds)

If I understand correctly, this MSI board allows you to flash the bios without any CPU seated, so there's no risk of being stranded if I get very unlucky and wind up with an older board?

How does the PSU look? This one seems closer to my power requirements and cheaper while also being gold and still modular. PCPP estimates the total wattage at 374, so 550 seems okay? (There is almost no chance that an xx80 or xx90 card will ever sit inside this machine)

Open to suggestions for better memory kits if there's obvious low-hanging fruit.

Definitely get a more powerful PSU.

Also, you can get a step up from that memory kit for less money right now, 3600 C16 instead of 3200 C16:

https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232880?Item=N82E16820232880

Edit: Nevermind - I misread that you were getting 2x16GB rather than 2x8GB. For 2x16GB what you listed looks good.

CaptainSarcastic fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Nov 10, 2022

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
The Ryzens do like fast RAM so 3600 CL16 will perform a couple percentage points faster. If the money isn't a big deal to you it may be worth upgrading. If money is tight, that cash is better spent on a high quality, high capacity PSU.

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



I'm a degenerate that runs 4x8GB sticks of RAM, so I forget 2x16GB is a more common preference.

Beast
May 2, 2004
thirsty for justice
Possibly a question where the answer is : YMMV

But is there any reason not to use windows 11? New pc will be a fresh install so thought I’d get windows 11 on there unless I’m missing something. Been on windows 10 for ages and had no issues. Not using any unusual software just office chrome steam etc

New pc is a Ryzen 5600 but apparently they fixed the ryzen windows 11 bugs?

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njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


If you're new building then yeah I don't think there's any major reason not to. A lot of little irritations that weren't irritations in Windows 10 but nothing that breaks everything. I still wouldn't upgrade if you're not doing a fresh install though.

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