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Sigmund Fraud posted:I coach a couple of climbing classes with weaker climbers (5a-6b rope grades). What are your guys' favorite (most but not too demanding) drills? They're office workers with that hunched computer posture. All can TR and a few can lead. Not a lot to this drill but have them keep their eyes on the foothold as they are placing their foot. Keep doing this and have them work on placing their feet precisely. That is a practice I picked up years ago from some YouTube video and I think it has been immensely helpful, especially when I suggest it to friends that are newer to climbing. The book "Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery" is also full of skill exercises and is a book I'd recommend. It will give you a long list of drills to pick from.
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Sep 28, 2022 22:20
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Another good one, especially for newer climbers, is slow motion climbing. Real bore-your-belayer-to-tears slow. This is like the hover drill but you want that sense of complete control through the entire movement, for the whole climb. A lot of people don’t have a good feel for when a position is in balance, unless they have a background in a balance focused sport like gymnastics, ballet or skating. You see this in newer climbers all the time on vertical walls: as soon as they start to move a point of contact their body swings all over the place. Even if their four-points-on positions are good, they’ll wobble through unbalanced positions during a movement. Going waaaay too slow will make that obvious to them. Just before this exercise is a great time to prompt them to think about flagging. It’s good to pair this one with an exercise that encourages really dynamic movement like climb-as-fast-as-you-can, bouldering dynos, etc.
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Sep 29, 2022 00:22
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Anyone know a decent bouldering gym in Berlin?
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Oct 4, 2022 22:10
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 This is beauotiful
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Oct 19, 2022 06:49
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Any climbing gym recommendations in Denver? It seems sort of hard to go wrong. Fwiw near the city center (civic center park) is most convenient for me.
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Oct 20, 2022 00:44
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Movement baker or Rino (bouldering only). Edit: misread your location
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Oct 20, 2022 03:05
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tildes posted:Any climbing gym recommendations in Denver? It seems sort of hard to go wrong. Fwiw near the city center (civic center park) is most convenient for me. Movement gives you the most options. Baker is right by you but I don't like that gym. The Rino bouldering gym is alright but crazy crowded. The old Earth Treks gyms are the best Movement gyms but a bit of a haul to them. If you just want to just boulder DBC Central is close by and way more fun, chill , and laid back.
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Oct 21, 2022 04:10
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spwrozek posted:Movement gives you the most options. Baker is right by you but I don't like that gym. The Rino bouldering gym is alright but crazy crowded. The old Earth Treks gyms are the best Movement gyms but a bit of a haul to them. Curious about what you don’t like about the Baker gym. We usually go to the Golden location but have visited Baker a few times and it seems fine. There is also Ubergrippen which I’ve only been to once as a guest. I thought their sets were pretty good but it’s a little on the small side.
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Oct 21, 2022 04:27
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Crowded and small, the walls are unimaginative, bouldering isn't very interesting. I climbed there for the first year it was open. Even though I was (still am) a 2.5 mile bike ride away I still will go to either Earth Treks location every time.
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Oct 21, 2022 04:36
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Gotcha. The times I’ve been there it’s usually been quiet but we try to go late Sunday afternoon. The one time it was busy it was kinda miserable to try to work on anything.
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Oct 21, 2022 05:22
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Aramoro posted:Anyone know a decent bouldering gym in Berlin? Been a couple of years now but I used to go to a nice and cheap (for the time) place called Der Kegel. It's close to the Warschauer Str. subway stop. They have a fairly large indoor section and a nice little outdoor section as well. Always a chill and friendly place. Aaaaaand I used saw that I'm two weeks late with this reply  Did you find a place to boulder?
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Oct 21, 2022 09:09
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My last 3 sessions or so I've found that when I drop down from the top of a Boulder problem I tend to get that sort of light headed feeling like one might when they get up from laying down too quickly. The sensation passes quickly enough, but it's been frequent enough to make me mildly concerned. Anyone know if maybe succeptability to that feeling is a sign of something? 🤔
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Oct 29, 2022 19:00
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Sab669 posted:My last 3 sessions or so I've found that when I drop down from the top of a Boulder problem I tend to get that sort of light headed feeling like one might when they get up from laying down too quickly. I have no idea if that's a sign of anything, but do you find that you hold your breath when you climb, or when you do a hard move? That could make you light headed.
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Oct 29, 2022 19:08
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I'd like to think I'm decently aware of my breathing on the wall, but I'll pay more attention to it next session.
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Oct 29, 2022 19:19
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At least if you faint it is going to be on the pads.
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Oct 29, 2022 19:41
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Any Chicago goons? Can anyone recommend me a gym for bouldering near downtown?
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Nov 4, 2022 21:18
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Ubiquitus posted:Any Chicago goons? Can anyone recommend me a gym for bouldering near downtown? Not from Chicago but I’ve been to maybe ~5 gyms there altogether and from what I’ve seen: First Ascent Block 37 is literally in the middle of the Loop and is probably the best bet? It was all bouldering and a small weight section iirc, but I liked the setting and it had a decent amount of square footage. I think that’s where I’d go if I was around the Loop/Chicago often. Movement Lincoln Park is like ten minutes north on the El- it had a bit more workout stuff. The actual bouldering was about on par or maybe a bit less good than First Ascent, with one big exception: it has a really sick roof section where the floor goes up at an angle to match the roof, so you can do this really long roof route without ever having to fall more than ~5 feet. Haven’t seen anything like it before and I think it’s maybe worth at least one visit just for that. Brooklyn Boulders West Loop also exists, but it’s not as easy to get to as the above i think, and I didn’t like it a whole ton.
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Nov 4, 2022 22:29
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I haven't been since the pandemic, but First Ascent that Tildes mentioned is great. It can get busy during after work hours, but if you're able to make it there during the day it's pretty light. And membership includes their other locations if you live out in the neighborhoods. I've heard good things about Movement near Wrigley too.
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Nov 4, 2022 22:52
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Tambreet posted:I haven't been since the pandemic, but First Ascent that Tildes mentioned is great. It can get busy during after work hours, but if you're able to make it there during the day it's pretty light. And membership includes their other locations if you live out in the neighborhoods. Movement opened a gym in Chicago? They are really expanding the gyms they own.
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Nov 5, 2022 00:50
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The bouldering gym I go to added Yoga for climbers classes a couple weeks ago. They're included with my membership so I've been hitting them twice a week. Unsure if I've seen any bouldering improvements, but I've got less lower back pain so my quality of life is up. I'll check in after 3 months and see if my flexibility has improved at all.
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Nov 5, 2022 02:24
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Mezzanon posted:The bouldering gym I go to added Yoga for climbers classes a couple weeks ago. They're included with my membership so I've been hitting them twice a week. Unsure if I've seen any bouldering improvements, but I've got less lower back pain so my quality of life is up. My flexibility has always been good, but yoga and other movement/mobility practice are just wonderful to make you body not hurt and not feel stiff as you age for sure. Main reason why I do some almost every day.
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Nov 5, 2022 02:30
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Yoga's one of those things where every single time I do it I'm like, "Wow that was good I should do this more" but I just cannot actually find the motivation to make it a regular part of my routines.
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Nov 5, 2022 02:32
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spwrozek posted:Movement opened a gym in Chicago? They are really expanding the gyms they own. Two gyms actually 👍🏻
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Nov 5, 2022 04:08
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Sab669 posted:Yoga's one of those things where every single time I do it I'm like, "Wow that was good I should do this more" but I just cannot actually find the motivation to make it a regular part of my routines. Managed to take my left wrist fully out of commission for the next couple months, so at the moment I can pretty much only do yoga/cardio (  make sure to keep your hands in front of you, not over your head and hitting the ground). I guess I'll find out how well that translates to climbing vOv
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Nov 5, 2022 05:09
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RIP ZEEZ
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Sab669 posted:Yoga's one of those things where every single time I do it I'm like, "Wow that was good I should do this more" but I just cannot actually find the motivation to make it a regular part of my routines. It helps a lot to find a teacher you like so then you can just go to all their classes.
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Nov 5, 2022 07:08
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I prefer doing it at home so that I can fart or readjust my junk as needed 
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Nov 5, 2022 11:54
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Ubiquitus posted:Any Chicago goons? Can anyone recommend me a gym for bouldering near downtown? As others said Block 37 is your best option. Brooklyn Boulders in the West Loop is okay, not a huge amount of bouldering, though.
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Nov 5, 2022 18:14
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Has anyone here thrown crash pads on roof racks on their car? I've never had a car with racks before but I bought a wagon that came with 'em this year -- can you just use the built-in straps from the pads themselves or should I get some actual ratchet straps from Home Despot or something? Trying to find somewhere to climb outdoors while in MA next week for Thanksgiving, but I can't quite fit 2 pads and 2 dogs in the car
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 15:37
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Sab669 posted:Has anyone here thrown crash pads on roof racks on their car? I've never had a car with racks before but I bought a wagon that came with 'em this year -- can you just use the built-in straps from the pads themselves or should I get some actual ratchet straps from Home Despot or something? You should get some ratchet straps. They're cheap and will be way more secure.
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Nov 16, 2022 15:52
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Sab669 posted:Has anyone here thrown crash pads on roof racks on their car? I've never had a car with racks before but I bought a wagon that came with 'em this year -- can you just use the built-in straps from the pads themselves or should I get some actual ratchet straps from Home Despot or something? You might have some spots in mind but Pawtuckaway is pretty loving great.
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Nov 16, 2022 15:55
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I didn't really have anywhere in mind actually. Only place I know of for bouldering in New England off the top of my head is Lincoln Woods in RI. Looks like Pawtuckaway is almost 2 hours from where I'll be staying. But I did post on Mountain Project looking for anyone to meet up with in the vaguely central MA region so who knows where I'll go, if I bring pads home with me at all or just hit some gyms in Boston/Cambridge.
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Nov 16, 2022 16:07
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Get ready for some brutal cold if you go outside. I'm spending Thanksgiving week at Rumney and the whole week has highs in the mid 30s  .
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Nov 16, 2022 16:54
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Yea I've climbed as late as November & as early as February in years past here in Niagara Falls NY/CAN area. I've got a pretty robust base layer system to keep me warm, a good thermos and some hand warmers 👍 Not sure what days I'd be looking to climb, this Sunday or Black Friday + the following Saturday probably -- high 30's / low 40's in Rhode Island according to the current forecast.
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Nov 16, 2022 17:50
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yeah with good planning it's all possible. We climb in the early snow sometimes in Quebec with ~ freezing weather. Just make sure you keep warm between goes because from what I've seen people get injured more easily when it's too cold out.alnilam posted:In western PA I used to go on a first-of-the-year easter weekend trip and last-of-the-year thanksgiving weekend trip. Pretty loving cold but still had a lot of fun. The best tip I got was to keep my climbing shoes stuffed inside my jacket while belaying/not climbing. I'll even add that if you have some extra hand/feet warmers throwing them in the shoes or in your boots while you're climbing can be really nice KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 17:54
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In western PA I used to go on a first-of-the-year easter weekend trip and last-of-the-year thanksgiving weekend trip. Pretty loving cold but still had a lot of fun. The best tip I got was to keep my climbing shoes stuffed inside my jacket while belaying/not climbing.
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Nov 16, 2022 17:56
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Hand warmers in the chalk bag is another good trick
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Nov 16, 2022 17:56
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Xyven posted:Hand warmers in the chalk bag is another good trick I feel really dumb for never doing that one. But yeah, tons of hand warmers everywhere. Getting cold fingers/feet really sucks and it's hard to come back from it. Oh and shoes that are not too tight can be amazing. If you don't need your super tight shoes, a more comfortable pair will be wayyyyyyyyyyyy more pleasant once your feet get cold. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 18:00
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Just looked through old photos from that 1 February trip I did   I seem to recall the weather that week was a lot of "freezing, not freezing" back and forth so these stairs into the crag were mega slippery from the ice thawing and freezing constantly. It was a serious struggle coming up them to leave, wish I had a set of crampons. Xyven posted:Hand warmers in the chalk bag is another good trick That's a really interesting idea for what to do with them when not actively climbing, drat.
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Nov 16, 2022 18:02
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Sab669 posted:Has anyone here thrown crash pads on roof racks on their car? I've never had a car with racks before but I bought a wagon that came with 'em this year -- can you just use the built-in straps from the pads themselves or should I get some actual ratchet straps from Home Despot or something? I've ratchet strapped a pad to the roof of an outback a bunch of times and it went fine, although stuff kinda flaps around and makes annoying noise sometimes. I wouldn't trust the built-in straps at all though.
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Nov 16, 2022 19:50
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Sab669 posted:I didn't really have anywhere in mind actually. Only place I know of for bouldering in New England off the top of my head is Lincoln Woods in RI. Looks like Pawtuckaway is almost 2 hours from where I'll be staying. It sounds like Farley would be closer for you, but I wouldn't recommend going there unless you can find someone to go with who knows it. The access agreement with the landowners stipulates that there is no guidebook. Happy Valley and the Hideaway are near Farley, have similarly high rock quality, and are documented on MP. They're also covered by "Montague Bouldering" on the rakkup app if you're interested in spending a little cash on a guide. The trails can be hard to follow and the rakkup guide has a nice GPS map feature that makes it pretty idiotproof to find your way around. I know Pawtuckaway pretty well, if you decide to make the drive up that way send me a message with the grades you're interested in, I'd be happy to give you some recommendations. Xyven posted:Get ready for some brutal cold if you go outside. I'm spending Thanksgiving week at Rumney and the whole week has highs in the mid 30s Stay in the sun and out of the wind and you'll be fine, main cliff is great in winter as long as it isn't bombing ice on you. ploots fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Nov 17, 2022 |
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Nov 17, 2022 07:32
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