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After watching Vince's video on Liquitex Acrylic Gouache, I decided to give 'em a try. I picked up Emerald Green and Cadmium-free Orange because my greens are kind of limited and my oranges are just... pretty much non-existent. Haven't figure out what to try the orange on, but the green.. Is pretty nice. Needed a lot more thinning and mixing to get something useable for a mini, but had good coverage and dried pretty matte... Until I added a wash and my usual "Oops, I put on too much mat varnish and now it's shiny". If you're willing to drop $10-16 on a bottle of paint (59ml bottles helps), I'd say they're worth a shot - Also they're dropper bottles too! ing because... OK, look, I've had ZERO motivation to really paint lately, and decided to paint the dumbest thing I found looking at some of my go-to mini designers on My Mini Factory, sooo... Yeah. My test mini for the green was a bikini-clad orc crushing a watermelon with her thighs from Vae Victis because it made me laugh the most.  https://i.imgur.com/ZdwCWc3.jpgI also did Vince's "Universal shade/highlight" suggestion and mixed in a little purple with the Emerald Green for the shadow and some VMC Sunny Skin Tone for the highlights. I'll have to do that more often, because, yeah, it works pretty well.
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Nov 15, 2022 02:30
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bird food bathtub posted:Neat, I'll probably give it a few sprays and see if it needs flow improver. Ideally not. Then I'll be off figuring out paints since I'm pretty sure it's been a good four or five years since I've been able to do anything in the hobby so mine are probably all shot. And even if they are possibly salvageable I hear there's been a revolutionary new technology of "not a stupid flip top hexagon bottle" in the rest of the world that I'd love to investigate. Dropper bottles just sound fantastic. Vince says 80% thinner 20% flow improver. I actually have a premix that I made that I just use a few drops in the bottom of my cup before I start. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg see about 3:00 into this video. also the rest of it.
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Nov 15, 2022 02:51
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Jonny Nox posted:Vince says 80% thinner 20% flow improver. This person does exactly what I do. Which is exactly what Vince does.
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Nov 15, 2022 02:53
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re-watching that video and I realize it's also the one that convinced me to buy a couple squeezy bottles and put 99% IPA in one. It's a good video Vince also has a video on Magenta which convinced me to do this:  and, hot take, but I think the One Page Rules Gators are strictly better than GW Kroxigors. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Nov 15, 2022 |
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Nov 15, 2022 03:07
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Messed around with value sketching a bit, but I shouldn't have been fancy and just used an overhead diffused light. Used a light coming from the side instead, which doesn't make much sense without the source lighting visible. Oh well, I think this lil fella looks neat still. 
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Nov 15, 2022 03:49
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Jonny Nox posted:I think the One Page Rules Gators are strictly better than GW Kroxigors. Everyone's gators are better than GWs, I bought the stl for these from lost kingdom and I can't even run them next to the gw ones it looks so silly in comparison.  Btw I think opr is releasing kroxigor with missle launchers soon 
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Nov 15, 2022 04:04
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Captain Ironblood posted:Messed around with value sketching a bit, but I shouldn't have been fancy and just used an overhead diffused light. Used a light coming from the side instead, which doesn't make much sense without the source lighting visible. Oh well, I think this lil fella looks neat still. Man, Papa Nurgle has a really great dental plan.
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Nov 15, 2022 04:07
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Harvey Mantaco posted:
if by 'soon' you mean 2 months ago, then yes. It is the same ones I printed, I just didn't have enough points left for them. after a game, I need to re-arrange things so that I do have enough points. Starhost do not have a large amount of long-range punch. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-starhost-gators-237715 The veteran gator is due next month, which is going to be vital to my planned 1000pt army.
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Nov 15, 2022 04:30
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bird food bathtub posted:Finally getting in to air brushing because I hate rattle can primers and they constantly piss me off. I don't know how much it matters but I've got a Sparmax SP35 airbrush and I am going to be using Valejo white acrylic primer. Will this need a thinning agent, and if so what is good or what works in a pinch? Just tap water or something more specific or nothing at all? Consider using Vallejo black primer and either zenithalling with a Liquitex white ink or, if you really want just white, hitting the whole think with white ink after you prime it black. No joke. You can even just mix them together for a light grey and use that. Every Vallejo primer I've used other than their black is either clog city or needs so much thinner it struggles to function as a primer. When I switched to Liquitex white ink I was furious I'd ever bought a white or grey primer. It's that good.
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Nov 15, 2022 06:35
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Anecdotally, I found Vallejo's black surface primer to be incredibly hard to use through an airbrush. Constant clogs, weird spray patterns. Did a ton of troubleshooting before identifying the primer, as the airbrush did fine with grey primer, inks, and just normal acrylic paints. Switched to ProAcryl's primer and haven't had problems since. Still use the Vallejo, just with a hairy brush instead of through the airbrush.
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Nov 15, 2022 08:56
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I can't decide whether to go 28mm, 15mm, 6mm, or 3mm with my next little project. My gut is to go smaller-scale for massed battles, but the problem is that under normal lighting, at a distance where you're going to be either looking at them or playing with them, anything less than 15mm just looks like little blobs: I was sure that 3mm would be a waste of time, but found the 6mm Eldar and 3mm Marines above, stashed away from an abortive start at NetEpic, so I painted up those:  The 28mm trooper is very like an early GW sculpt and I love it, intended for Five Parsecs from Home. I also bought the same 'layout' of miniatures in 15mm which are just a bit naff. My big issue is that I only have 3' x 5' to play with if I ever get any miniatures to the table, so the >28mm options seem alot more usable.
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Nov 15, 2022 09:48
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Captain Ironblood posted:Messed around with value sketching a bit, but I shouldn't have been fancy and just used an overhead diffused light. Used a light coming from the side instead, which doesn't make much sense without the source lighting visible. Oh well, I think this lil fella looks neat still. This looks disgusting and I love it
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Nov 15, 2022 09:53
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Jonny Nox posted:re-watching that video and I realize it's also the one that convinced me to buy a couple squeezy bottles and put 99% IPA in one. These are really cool, I love the one's shield especially Is the blue on the inside of their mouths the same as the one one on the gun?
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Nov 15, 2022 11:18
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Serperoth posted:These are really cool, I love the one's shield especially yeah, I've got hundreds of bottles of paint, but when I'm painting I tend to just keep the paints I already have going. The blue on the weapons was just going to be a place-holder until I could figure something that worked, but that worked.
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Nov 15, 2022 15:08
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So here's an idea for the thread. I have come across some extremely detailed plans for 40k scale Imperial Titans. I'm planning to build the Warhound this winter, would anyone like to build along? It would be like a Let's Play but with building Titans. Maybe like a Let's Build. I've built two Warhounds and a Reaver in the past from less detailed plans and these look like they're far more challenging. If anyone is interested I'll post the plans and we can get started on an unstoppable goon legion.
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Nov 15, 2022 17:07
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Honneur et Patrie 
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10mm halfling sheep riders  all 3 of my halfling units together. what would you call this? a moot muster? 
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Nov 15, 2022 19:57
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Bet you goons didn't know Antman was really good at painting miniatures did you.
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Nov 15, 2022 20:04
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm halfling sheep riders Your Halflings give me life, they’re so adorable and really great looking.
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Nov 15, 2022 20:49
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The French Army posted:So here's an idea for the thread. I have come across some extremely detailed plans for 40k scale Imperial Titans. I'm planning to build the Warhound this winter, would anyone like to build along? It would be like a Let's Play but with building Titans. Maybe like a Let's Build. I've built two Warhounds and a Reaver in the past from less detailed plans and these look like they're far more challenging. If anyone is interested I'll post the plans and we can get started on an unstoppable goon legion. I'm not a 40k player but I read the lore occasionally and I'd enjoy following along to cheerlead. First suggestion: ??th Legion, 234th Chapter, "The Emperor's Misfits"
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Nov 15, 2022 21:12
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm halfling sheep riders jesus christ is that NMM on the shields
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Nov 16, 2022 00:21
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Southern Heel posted:jesus christ is that NMM on the shields indeed. NMM is so striking at this scale, I don't think I'll ever go back. Having precise control of where the lighting makes a big difference I think
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Nov 16, 2022 05:00
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I feel like you almost *have to* do nmm at 10mm, otherwise nothing really stands out I always hate doing eyes GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 05:26
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Jonny Nox posted:yeah, I've got hundreds of bottles of paint, but when I'm painting I tend to just keep the paints I already have going. The blue on the weapons was just going to be a place-holder until I could figure something that worked, but that worked. I really like it thematically, gives it a nice "link" between the natural of the tongue and the artificial of the weapon
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Nov 16, 2022 08:06
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Airbrush primed one test model last night, worked great for the priming. I rammed that Vallejo in their raw like some kind of animal. Took the videos advice and cranked up the PSI to deal with titanium dioxide's finnickiness. Hoping actual colors mute it a bit but right now with just white primer the 3d printer layer lines are positively screaming at me. It weirded me out a bit and I have to do some re-learning. The color getting applied by air brush is slow and subtle compared to my reflexive assumptions with a normal brush. Pretty sure I kept ramming it wide open on full blast to get results instead of giving it time like air brushing needs. Also my hand kept cramping and that sucks. Will also probably be weeks until I can start painting. Considering my entire previous stock unsalvageable. What's a good line that comes in dropper bottles and hopefully has a GW-equivalent color chart? Sick of these GW flip top pots.
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Nov 16, 2022 14:57
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Vallejo
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Nov 16, 2022 15:01
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Spanish Manlove posted:Vallejo Or Pro-Acryl from Monument hobbies. I've used both a lot. Vallejo Air colors require less thinning and have a lot more very specific colors, but Pro-Acryl is great for both Airbrushing and general brush painting.
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Nov 16, 2022 15:09
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Bucnasti posted:Or Pro-Acryl from Monument hobbies. I've used both a lot. Vallejo Air colors require less thinning and have a lot more very specific colors, but Pro-Acryl is great for both Airbrushing and general brush painting. I recently started using Pro Acryl and I’m loving them. Best paints I’ve used, lots of paint at a good price, dropper bottle with an agitator already included. The only thing that threw me at first is the the finish is matte instead of satin but as I was told by this thread, the different finishes of paint all even out under a top coat.
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Nov 16, 2022 15:31
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Jonny Nox posted:re-watching that video and I realize it's also the one that convinced me to buy a couple squeezy bottles and put 99% IPA in one. Squeezy bottles are super useful in this hobby. I'm only using one for water for cleaning between colors, but I use that constantly. One for IPA also sounds like a good idea.
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Nov 16, 2022 18:11
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mllaneza posted:Squeezy bottles are super useful in this hobby. I'm only using one for water for cleaning between colors, but I use that constantly. One for IPA also sounds like a good idea. IIRC Vince's bottle is a mix of 9:1 water:IPA though.
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Nov 16, 2022 18:50
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hey guys just wanted to update you on the kill team progress. I decided to print alot of stuff on hard cards to make things as simple to follow and as attractive as possible for me and everyone else I plan on introducing the game to, I want to make the experience as 'cool' as possible so people dont glaze over and so that the rule book is opened as little as possible. to do this, I did the following:- 1- I printed the unit data cards on very hard card, this way they can place their equipment and dice to keep track of their health. I gave the unit cards a cool back with a panting on it to make it look cool depending on the faction they're playing. 2- I printed the rules references on cards as well, the single-sheet ref cards have a painting on the back, the slightly larger three page ref cards if we need more details. 3- I collected all the Strategic, tactical, ploys and ops and special orders and Ancillary Support on a single page, and they get a cool design on the back (for example, the back of my Ork Commando Ploy card is their faction, the KINGZ O' FITIN, which is an Ork Kommando team I plan of painting and sculpting to look like fighting game and shooter video game characters. 4- I designed a bunch of tokens for Equipment in Photoshop, so that the player instead of memorizing or writing down what they're using they can simply put the token on the unit data card and the number is clear so that they can easily count up to 10 points. I think like this I'm ready to rock and roll! I will make more cards like this for the Into the dark factions when I get them! let me know what you think:-  also I'd like advice on something, I bought a second box for my Veteran Guardsmen, so I decided to use the helmet and body armor of the Demolition Veteran to add more 'oomph' to my Bruiser, I had to shave away a little bit of the head and collar to make it fit a little, (I will be adding a little more armor and filling the gaps to hide the shaving with green stuff) but as I was gluing it it slipped from my fingers and the glue got on the face and helmet, I managed to wipe it down but there's the wierd white stuff and grungry texture to the helmet, it doesnt look like it affected the details but I'd like to get advice on how to remove it if I can.  
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Nov 16, 2022 19:27
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The only colours I fire out of my airbrush now are either Liquitex Acrylic Ink or Vallejo Metal Colour. I can't be bothered to thin my paints for spraying now!
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Nov 16, 2022 19:41
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I recently started working on mini's again after not touching it for 10 years due to poverty. I want to make some interesting bases and recently saw some Astronaut Votann, and really liked the base that was on them. Does anybody know how to make bases that look like this and what I would need? Not necessarily (but maybe also) what painting would I need to do to get a similar affect? I asked the original poster and he did not respond regarding the bases.
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Nov 16, 2022 20:13
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Krataar posted:. I want to make some interesting bases and recently saw some Astronaut Votann, The moon reflection on the visor of that helmet is pure genius
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Nov 16, 2022 20:15
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Krataar posted:I recently started working on mini's again after not touching it for 10 years due to poverty. I want to make some interesting bases and recently saw some Astronaut Votann, and really liked the base that was on them. Does anybody know how to make bases that look like this and what I would need? Not necessarily (but maybe also) what painting would I need to do to get a similar affect? I asked the original poster and he did not respond regarding the bases. I'd take a texture paste and apply it all over, and after it dries trace out with more texture paste the raised rim of the craters. Use thinner lines for the general veining you see in the ground. Edit: for the boot prints, while the texture paste is wet carefully draw the edges of a footprint in the paste, then do tiny indents in the middle of the boot to replicate the tracks The Demilich fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 20:31
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Krataar posted:I recently started working on mini's again after not touching it for 10 years due to poverty. I want to make some interesting bases and recently saw some Astronaut Votann, and really liked the base that was on them. Does anybody know how to make bases that look like this and what I would need? Not necessarily (but maybe also) what painting would I need to do to get a similar affect? I asked the original poster and he did not respond regarding the bases. If I were to make that base, I'd use spackle or joint compound mixed with some mod-podge and sculpt in the ridges and press a round thing (probably wetted down or with some hand loation on it so it doesn't stick) in for craters after it has sat for 20-30 minutes. The reason for the mod-podge is to keep the other stuff from flaking when touched after it dries. Then again I'm an idiot who just uses that for everything, and there is probably a better way to do it.
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Nov 16, 2022 20:34
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Krataar posted:I recently started working on mini's again after not touching it for 10 years due to poverty. I want to make some interesting bases and recently saw some Astronaut Votann, and really liked the base that was on them. Does anybody know how to make bases that look like this and what I would need? Not necessarily (but maybe also) what painting would I need to do to get a similar affect? I asked the original poster and he did not respond regarding the bases. That is a pretty nice base! I was going to say "Vallejo texture paste, a silicon clay sculting brush and some paint", but on closer inspection the ground has very little of that texture paste gritty texture to it. So while I reckon you could get a perfectly good lunar surface effect that way I'm guessing that they used something other than a vallejo texture paste. Maybe a different brand (or maybe one of the other vallejo colours has finer grains in it that the one I personally use to be fair, I've only really used their brown earth, and I cant remember if the different colours have different texture too). I'm wondering if they maybe used an artists structure paste rather than a texture paste, some of those are hella smooth, and can be smoothed over with a little water (and take a little sculpting like the crater lip and deep footprints okay-ish in my experience). Hell, maybe they used wall filler (I think americans call it Spackle). So, long story short, they've used a paste of some description, modelled on the crater and foot prints, probably with clay or wax sculpting tools (handy things to have for miniatures anyway), and then painted it with greys, I think maybe a very dilute sepia-ish wash in the recesses then highlighted with a real light grey. Probably with a final drybrush of a grey thats so close to white you could only tell the difference if the paints were next to each other and the light was good. Reckon any texture paste will get you a similar result but they probably used something with no/minimal added texture. Looking at the edges I think they probably used tape or something as a wall around the base to let them get the paste up to the edge but not on the rim at all. I'm not sure I personally would want to do that for an entire army but it does look striking as hell.
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Nov 16, 2022 20:49
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mllaneza posted:Squeezy bottles are super useful in this hobby. I'm only using one for water for cleaning between colors, but I use that constantly. One for IPA also sounds like a good idea. I want one squeeze bottle of isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the airbrush and one squeeze bottle of India pale ale for my mouth.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:26
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The French Army posted:So here's an idea for the thread. I have come across some extremely detailed plans for 40k scale Imperial Titans. I'm planning to build the Warhound this winter, would anyone like to build along? It would be like a Let's Play but with building Titans. Maybe like a Let's Build. I've built two Warhounds and a Reaver in the past from less detailed plans and these look like they're far more challenging. If anyone is interested I'll post the plans and we can get started on an unstoppable goon legion. Quoting this because I think its a great idea and it got a bit lost among all the tiny, tiny halfling love. I don’t think I could contribute any practical assistance, but I would be very happy to cheer along. These forums need a scratch built Titan in these crazy times.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:42
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I hate how much better Vallejo's texture paint is for bases than anyone else's, because it's such a pain in the rear end to get ahold of Vallejo paints.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:43
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SiKboy posted:That is a pretty nice base! The Vallejo Rough Grey Pumice has a very fine texture that looks almost identical to the texture of that base once it dries. I'm betting it's that in multiple layers with a wash. It's pretty impressive they made something that detailed if it is the grey pumice because it is much thinner and flows more than the brown so its harder to make very clean sculpts. Edit: I’ve got a test up to see how the grey pumice turns out because I haven’t used it in months. I’ll post updates to see if that’s the right one once it hardens. Will likely need to do some filing and cutting once it hardens: 
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