Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost

CmdrRiker posted:

I thought MM funds were similar to HYSAs (though higher risk, but small interest and still liquid) used as tools to store funds to earn a little interest before you invest it in something.

Something to note is that a money market account is a deposit account similar to a HYSA. It's not a money market fund and has nothing to do with mutual funds.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

LanceHunter
Nov 12, 2016

Beautiful People Club


Just had an interesting situation pop into my lap. For about two years back at the turn of the millennium, I was working at a computer lab at the University of Texas. Today, for the first time ever (that I can remember), I got a statement from the Teacher Retirement System of Texas. It seems that, because of my time working there, I've got about $3200 in my retirement account with the TRS. Also, apparently because of the era in which I was employed, I'm grandfathered in to the next-highest tier for my benefits.

So I've got three options. I could:

- Keep my account open, wait a few decades until retirement, and then collect the (very tiny) benefit they would provide. (The amount I'd get would be below the plan minimum, so I'd get that minimum instead, $150/month.)

- Get the money in the account refunded to me in cash. (Taking some small tax penalties.)

- Roll this money over into another retirement account. (Right now my only retirement account is my 401k at work, so I'd need to look into how this works.)


I'd feel bad taking the $150/month in retirement, as I'd definitely end up taking more money out of the system than I ever put into it. Putting the money into my own retirement account is probably the smartest option, though it will be a bit of a pain to navigate since I have no experience with anything like that. I'm very tempted to just get the cash. It would cover my holiday shopping budget with a bit left over for strippers and coke adding to my home-downpayment savings fund.

Strong Sauce
Jul 2, 2003

You know I am not really your father.





Harry posted:

SNSXX is state tax exempt. With that much of a spread that doesn't really matter though.

Marcus and Ally usually do new funds deposit bonuses so one of each will usually net you a couple of hundred dollars every year. I would wait until Marcus is running a promotion to open an account though.

do you know of any site that notifies you of new deposit bonuses? I'm looking to sign up with Ally but uhh that extra money looks tempting enough.

SamDabbers
May 26, 2003



LanceHunter posted:

Just had an interesting situation pop into my lap. For about two years back at the turn of the millennium, I was working at a computer lab at the University of Texas. Today, for the first time ever (that I can remember), I got a statement from the Teacher Retirement System of Texas. It seems that, because of my time working there, I've got about $3200 in my retirement account with the TRS. Also, apparently because of the era in which I was employed, I'm grandfathered in to the next-highest tier for my benefits.

So I've got three options. I could:

- Keep my account open, wait a few decades until retirement, and then collect the (very tiny) benefit they would provide. (The amount I'd get would be below the plan minimum, so I'd get that minimum instead, $150/month.)

- Get the money in the account refunded to me in cash. (Taking some small tax penalties.)

- Roll this money over into another retirement account. (Right now my only retirement account is my 401k at work, so I'd need to look into how this works.)


I'd feel bad taking the $150/month in retirement, as I'd definitely end up taking more money out of the system than I ever put into it. Putting the money into my own retirement account is probably the smartest option, though it will be a bit of a pain to navigate since I have no experience with anything like that. I'm very tempted to just get the cash. It would cover my holiday shopping budget with a bit left over for strippers and coke adding to my home-downpayment savings fund.

The worst option is to withdraw and pay a penalty.

Rolling it over into your 401k should not be too difficult. Usually you talk to the custodian for the account you're rolling into and they will tell you how to initiate the transfer. You want to do a custodian-to-custodian transfer if you can. That avoids the situations where you can gently caress it up and have to pay penalties.

Alternatively you could open a traditional IRA and roll it into that. Same advice about custodian-to-custodian transfer applies.

SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Nov 16, 2022

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

LanceHunter posted:

I'd feel bad taking the $150/month in retirement, as I'd definitely end up taking more money out of the system than I ever put into it. Putting the money into my own retirement account is probably the smartest option, though it will be a bit of a pain to navigate since I have no experience with anything like that. I'm very tempted to just get the cash. It would cover my holiday shopping budget with a bit left over for strippers and coke adding to my home-downpayment savings fund.

first of all: what? you're entitled to the money by rule of the pension system. do you feel bad taking tax deductions?

Taking cash is the worst idea. You knew about upcoming holiday shopping requirements for 12 months, you should have already set aside money for it.

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer
Yeah, math wise $3200 = 22ish months. So unless you plan on dying in under 2 years after retirement , def take the monthly payments.


Enough poo poo is stacked against you in life, when you have wins in your favor take them.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Strong Sauce posted:

do you know of any site that notifies you of new deposit bonuses? I'm looking to sign up with Ally but uhh that extra money looks tempting enough.

https://www.doctorofcredit.com/ covers this but also a lot more you might not care about like credit cards and other random promotions.

https://www.doctorofcredit.com/best-bank-account-bonuses/ might be more useful but is only updated once a month or so.

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009

Duckman2008 posted:

Yeah, math wise $3200 = 22ish months. So unless you plan on dying in under 2 years after retirement , def take the monthly payments.


Enough poo poo is stacked against you in life, when you have wins in your favor take them.

I'm too lazy to do the math but this is definitely ignoring the time value of money. $3200 today is not at all the same thing as $3200 several decades from now.

Agronox
Feb 4, 2005

LanceHunter posted:

I'd feel bad taking the $150/month in retirement, as I'd definitely end up taking more money out of the system than I ever put into it. Putting the money into my own retirement account is probably the smartest option, though it will be a bit of a pain to navigate since I have no experience with anything like that. I'm very tempted to just get the cash. It would cover my holiday shopping budget with a bit left over for strippers and coke adding to my home-downpayment savings fund.

You didn't provide some important info, but making some assumptions here:
  • you retire in 30 years
  • you'll collect for 20 years after that until you die
  • the discount rate is 5%
I don't know if those numbers are realistic for your situation, but if they are, that future annuity is worth about $5,200 today.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

It's possible you end back at the University later, probably if you cash out that money, they won't let you back on the gold plated pension plan. With that money sitting in there you can probably resume on the good pension plan. Kind of a nice backup plan if you decide at age 55 you don't want to work in private sector any more

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Tyro posted:

I'm too lazy to do the math but this is definitely ignoring the time value of money. $3200 today is not at all the same thing as $3200 several decades from now.

Right , so maybe add a year , but my point still stands.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

Hadlock posted:

It's possible you end back at the University later, probably if you cash out that money, they won't let you back on the gold plated pension plan. With that money sitting in there you can probably resume on the good pension plan. Kind of a nice backup plan if you decide at age 55 you don't want to work in private sector any more

This is a very good point.

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009

Duckman2008 posted:

Right , so maybe add a year , but my point still stands.

Oh yeah, it's definitely the correct decision (assuming the chance of the pension fund going bankrupt is close to zero).

I'm vested in my state pension system, I think I'll get something like $250/mo when I turn 62, it's been a few years since I ran the numbers. Did a similar math when i left that job and decided to leave my money in. Plus if I ever do go back to a qualifying job, in addition to increasing my number of years, I'd drastically increase the high 3 salary average.

you ate my cat
Jul 1, 2007

Three months ago, I put $20,000 of my general savings into a 3-month brokered CD at 2.4%. My reasoning was that my HYSA rate was still low, I would know this month if I was moving or not, and a little extra interest in the meantime would be nice. Two days ago, it matured and exactly $20,000 was deposited back into my brokerage account. That was not the amount I was expecting.

Can someone help me figure out what I'm missing here? This is my first experience with brokered CDs. Do I just need to be patient because money is slow, or did I do something wrong? I've read a bunch of online guides and none of them go into detail about what to expect after maturity. (why would they? CD goes away, money comes out :shrug:)

pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.

Strong Sauce posted:

do you know of any site that notifies you of new deposit bonuses? I'm looking to sign up with Ally but uhh that extra money looks tempting enough.

I was actually going to start a churning thread for CCs and Banks in Coupons and Deals.

Cassius Belli
May 22, 2010

horny is prohibited

you ate my cat posted:

Can someone help me figure out what I'm missing here? This is my first experience with brokered CDs. Do I just need to be patient because money is slow, or did I do something wrong? I've read a bunch of online guides and none of them go into detail about what to expect after maturity. (why would they? CD goes away, money comes out :shrug:)

Have you checked your account history for mystery deposits? The CD's exact behavior will vary a little bit from bank to bank and offering to offering. Most short-term CDs will pay out at maturity, but I've had some that just cut me a monthly dividend, and the principal unlocked at the end just like you describe (though you should get another separate payout as dividend for the last month).

drk
Jan 16, 2005

you ate my cat posted:

Three months ago, I put $20,000 of my general savings into a 3-month brokered CD at 2.4%. My reasoning was that my HYSA rate was still low, I would know this month if I was moving or not, and a little extra interest in the meantime would be nice. Two days ago, it matured and exactly $20,000 was deposited back into my brokerage account. That was not the amount I was expecting.

Can someone help me figure out what I'm missing here? This is my first experience with brokered CDs. Do I just need to be patient because money is slow, or did I do something wrong? I've read a bunch of online guides and none of them go into detail about what to expect after maturity. (why would they? CD goes away, money comes out :shrug:)

Is it possible it was zero coupon? Did you buy it at a discount to par?

you ate my cat
Jul 1, 2007

Cassius Belli posted:

Have you checked your account history for mystery deposits?

I have, and no mystery deposits. I'm pretty sure it was coupon at maturity also.

drk posted:

Is it possible it was zero coupon? Did you buy it at a discount to par?

Both of these would involve purchasing it for less than the payout, right? It was a new issue CD bought for $20k, so no to both.

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


you ate my cat posted:

I have, and no mystery deposits. I'm pretty sure it was coupon at maturity also.

Both of these would involve purchasing it for less than the payout, right? It was a new issue CD bought for $20k, so no to both.

I'd say ask whoever you bought it from what's up, and let the thread know the outcome, because I was thinking the same thing Cassius asked.

also pretend I waved at the old SGOV posts again

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!
Hello goons. I just started a new job, and I (finally!) have access to a 401k and HSA. Not only that, but I have the choice between a Traditional or Roth 401k. No employer match (they offer an ESOP instead!). My wages will be about $65k-70k per year, with maybe another few thousand in miscellaneous interest, dividends, and Patreon money over the year. Based on that, I'm trying to decide which type of 401k to go with. I'm 30, I have a Roth IRA with about $23k in it right now, and a taxable account with another $45k in it.

Generally, my plan is to max out my IRA and HSA, and put as much money into my 401k as possible (potentially maxing it out, too).

I'm very tempted to go with a Roth to get access to as much post-tax space as possible, as (hopefully) my income will only ever go up from here. At the same time, being able to reduce my taxable income / tax rate with a traditional 401k is also very tempting, as maxing out my 401k in 2023 would bring my taxable income down to about $48k. If I maxed out my HSA and a Traditional IRA as well, I could get that down well below $45k, which would put me into the 0%LTCG rate for 2023, which would allow me to 0% tax gain harvest for the year in my taxable brokerage account on about $3-8k of gains.

I'm used to living around the poverty line, so I could definitely survive on the remaining ~$3k a month.

So yeah, please help decide on which one to go with. Thanks again!

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost
You shouldn't need to decide between one or the other. You can contribute to both and switch it up any time (if your plan allows it, check your plan). When I had access to a Roth 401k, I used the trad 401k to get where I wanted tax-wise, then the rest in Roth 401k.

Another thing to consider is that if you change jobs and need to rollover your 401k into an IRA, your Roth 401k money can go to a Rollover Roth IRA without conversion. Minimizing your trad IRA will make backdooring easier if you think that's an option for you in the future.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
How old are you and how serious is your career trajectory? It’s good to think through future earnings pattern and you are smart to do so.

Like for me, I’m probably at/near peak earnings and so I have not contributed to the Roth 401k at all because the reduction in taxable income from trad is super valuable to me right now at high tax rates. If I were at a lower tax rate with a path to future higher earnings I would potentially take the Roth option or at least split contributions.

If you are trying to hedge against tax rate policy changes in retirement, keep in mind that if unspent your HSA functions as a trad 401k from a tax perspective.

smackfu
Jun 7, 2004

Harry posted:

Marcus and Ally usually do new funds deposit bonuses so one of each will usually net you a couple of hundred dollars every year. I would wait until Marcus is running a promotion to open an account though.

Looks like the promo is generally 1% of funds deposited and you have to keep the funds there for a few months.

Personally I don’t mind chasing sign up bonuses on credit cards but bank and brokerage accounts can be a pain. You are moving large amounts of your own money around which goes wrong sometimes and requires “dealing with it” which I don’t like.

you ate my cat
Jul 1, 2007

pmchem posted:

I'd say ask whoever you bought it from what's up, and let the thread know the outcome, because I was thinking the same thing Cassius asked.

also pretend I waved at the old SGOV posts again

I called my brokerage, and they said it's not uncommon for the interest to show up separately, though it usually should have showed up by now. If it's not there by COB today he recommended calling tomorrow and they'll investigate further. I'm sure you're all on the edge of your seats, so I'll be sure to let you know what happens.

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

For someone recently retired or near retirement, is there a correct percentage of your fixed income investments to put in inflation protected instruments to reduce risk? Or even any rules of thumb or considerations.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I believe there's several variables, unfortunately. The amount you have in cash and near-cash equivalents has to do with total portfolio size, cash requirements for the next year+ (which may include immediate or imminent health care needs), and more. Of course retirees should still typically have a significant chunk of their investments in equities, because if they expect or hope to live for decades more, much of their retirement funds are still long-term investments. But of that allocation that is likely to be drawn upon in the nearer term, a significant portion should be near-cash; and risk-free things like bonds (not bond funds but actual short-term bonds) including i-bonds are an option for that, keeping all the minimum holding requirements in mind.

I'm much less well-versed in near- and mid-retirement asset allocation and don't feel confident in giving any kind of rule of thumb.

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


Dear long-term thread,

I mildly desire a new thread title. While the current title is fine and funny, it's also a bit juvenile and may slightly offend a subset of visitors to BFC who aren't regulars here. This thread gets a lot of visits from not-BFC-regulars. With the end of the calendar year coming soon, I expect those visits to increase as people try to sort their poo poo out for EOY.

If you all want to have fun and brainstorm a new thread title right now, feel free! Otherwise, let it be known, I'll be keeping an eye out for a crowd-pleasing replacement.

pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.

pmchem posted:

Dear long-term thread,

I mildly desire a new thread title.

A lot of threads and subforums on SA now are bafflingly titled. Community is quite balkanized and insular in many ways.

Secular is not the word I mean and somehow I can't recall the word.

pseudanonymous fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Nov 18, 2022

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost
The thread title might be a bit juvenile, but we've been buying ibonds since before it was cool so we're pretty sophisticated

Discendo Vox
Mar 21, 2013

This does not make sense when, again, aggregate indicia also indicate improvements. The belief that things are worse is false. It remains false.
Ye olde hodle

The second best time is now

Buffett’s hamburger buffet

Report any unusual growths

A subsidiary of the Vanguard Group

Keep your interest piqued

a package from the IRA

Warhammer 401k

Totally unsophisticated

The 1 percent (interest)

Some shrinkage is normal

Sorry, that’s not nearly enough

Discendo Vox fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Nov 18, 2022

drk
Jan 16, 2005
Long Term Investing & Retirement: Belaboring basis points

Long Term Investing & Retirement: Now exclusively discussing short term investing

Long Term Investing & Retirement: Deferring taxes since 2008

Long Term Investing & Retirement: Close your Edward Jones account and come on in

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Motronic posted:

Yawn. <taps first half of thread title>

Smashing Link posted:

I wish someone had clued me in about Roth IRAs earlier (no thanks Mom and Dad) but I suppose it could be annoying.

drk posted:

"5-10% a year sounds good but what good is that going to do me now, i want to buy things/be rich now".

Roumba
Jun 29, 2005
Buglord
We can pretend it's a bank or the NYSE, etc.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Long Term Investing & Retirement: Learn how to time the market*

Discendo Vox
Mar 21, 2013

This does not make sense when, again, aggregate indicia also indicate improvements. The belief that things are worse is false. It remains false.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Long Term Investing & Retirement: Learn how to time the market*

Long Term Investing & Retirement: Pulling out just in time*

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Long Term Investing & Retirement:

Taller and more handsome than the other thread

Patrick Bateman did nothing wrong

Free Patagonia vests inside

All in on Masterworks

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Long-Term Investment & Retirement: in case the world is still here in 20 years

Long-Term Investment & Retirement: 401ks, IRAs, Bonds and Bottle Caps… just in case

Untagged
Mar 29, 2004

Hey, does your planet have wiper fluid yet or you gonna freak out and start worshiping us?
Ask About Our Free Expense Ratio Evaluations

Space Fish
Oct 14, 2008

The original Big Tuna.


VT and chill... or die
My Roth Will Go On
Rock Em Sock Em Robo Advisers
Goons To The Moon in 35 Years
You can't take it with you, but you can leave it all behind
Expense Ratio Shopping Spree
On a long enough time horizon, you're still a goon
Now that's making dollars... AND sense! *Wink, finger gun*

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

LanceHunter
Nov 12, 2016

Beautiful People Club


Long Term Investing & Retirement: Like It or Not You're Probably Gonna Live to Retirement

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply