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Hadlock posted:I got an email about my Prusa XL preorder The way I read it was that the XL can have up to X number of hall sensors, and that would only be if you're using 5 print heads. So each print head probably has 3-5 and maybe some in the printhead carrier for end stop determination? I have a slight apprehension that they are pushing this out the door early but it is very slight. They are a well known company and the risk of sending out untested junk for them is huge because they have set a pretty high bar - and charge a pretty high premium for the expectation. If they burn their bridges by sending out a beta product it's almost impossible to recover from that. It just doesn't mesh with their past decisions/releases. I'm expecting well tested and functional hardware and maybe some software bugs along the way that get resolved after the first few months.
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Nov 18, 2022 16:50
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bird food bathtub posted:I use the Ameralabs Calibration Town, or a name really similar to that. That one has given me quite accurate readings to dial in my exposure times. None of the translucent or clear resins I've ever used have been troublesome. There's a whole school of thought out there about how since it might transmit more light, it's more difficult to print without blowing out details or whatever, but I haven't ever found that to be true. Sample size of one, ymmv, etc. etc.
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Nov 18, 2022 17:00
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Acid Reflux posted:None of the translucent or clear resins I've ever used have been troublesome. There's a whole school of thought out there about how since it might transmit more light, it's more difficult to print without blowing out details or whatever, but I haven't ever found that to be true. Sample size of one, ymmv, etc. etc. I've printed a whole bunch on my Mars. Red, Blue, Green, Clear. None of them have ever been a problem. If you want clear to remain clear you have to be very careful about how you cure it and after the fact you might want to apply some kind of UV protection or it'll yellow. I just typically do a very light cure.
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Nov 18, 2022 17:06
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Hadlock posted:Kind of tempted to keep my deposit and just flip it on eBay when the shipping info arrives, sounding like preorders are going to be way below the true full retail price Is this a likely scenario? I can't get my supervisor to pull the trigger on a preorder, but when regular ordering opened I was hoping to get her onboard to order one. Not sure how successful that would be if the price jumps significantly. Oh, and USPS tells me that my Sovol SV06 is arriving today. Ordered on Nov 8, so that's 10 day turnaround, much faster than the Dec 8 delivery date as advertised.
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Nov 18, 2022 18:14
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I have no idea what their plan is with pricing I'm just guessing Inflation jumped by 10% so presumably the price will go up at some point in the next two years. I think manufacturing went up by way more than 10% more like 30%. I think someone else commented that preorder pricing in the past was lower than standard retail pricing I pre-ordered the 5 tool head model which, it sounds like they added a separate daughter board for the extra tool heads, maybe? I can see the 5 tool head model being more likely to see a price increase. I can see the 5 head model jumping to $3800? It's gonna have five nextruders, five sets of hall effect sensors, five filament run out sensors, all sorts of crap. I guess the new tool heads have "headlights" and programmable buttons. That's gonna add up. Again wild rear end guessing here
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Nov 18, 2022 19:13
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Hadlock posted:I pre-ordered the 5 tool head model which, it sounds like they added a separate daughter board for the extra tool heads, maybe? I can see the 5 tool head model being more likely to see a price increase. I can see the 5 head model jumping to $3800? It's gonna have five nextruders, five sets of hall effect sensors, five filament run out sensors, all sorts of crap. I guess the new tool heads have "headlights" and programmable buttons. That's gonna add up. Again wild rear end guessing here The daughter board is necessary for both the 3- and 5-extruder configs
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Nov 18, 2022 19:16
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bird food bathtub posted:I use the Ameralabs Calibration Town, or a name really similar to that. That one has given me quite accurate readings to dial in my exposure times. just buy the acrylic rod, unless your time is worth nothing
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Nov 18, 2022 19:32
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Deviant posted:just buy the acrylic rod, unless your time is worth nothing I probably will, the comment up above about them yellowing over time made me think about implementation. Not going to be priming and painting something specifically chosen to be translucent. Have to look in to Necrons a little deeper, I think the rods on top of their guns might be the only time it's used? If so, acrylic rods it is.
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Nov 19, 2022 00:24
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ok friends i come to you for pricing advice. I have a dude that's been buying from me weekly for a few weeks now, saw a (amateur, im not amazing) paintjob from me on a stable I did and wants this bigass inn thing printed and painted, plus some scatter terrain to fill it.  I'll probably go in the realm of 375ish for the building, another 75 for scatter (bunch of bar stuff, couple beds, some tables), wtf do i charge for painting. im not a pro or anything so my results wont be spectacular so i dont wanna charge an arm and a leg but, yeah, im at a loss. here's my paintjob, pls be kind 
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Nov 19, 2022 05:36
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What do you want to pay yourself per hour? How many hours will it take to paint that? Multiply the two and add the cost of materials and you have a good starting point. If it works out to an arm and a leg then that is fine. If painting is not your primary business there is no reason to quote less than your normal hourly rate even if you think painting should be cheaper.
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Nov 19, 2022 06:04
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ZincBoy posted:What do you want to pay yourself per hour? How many hours will it take to paint that? Multiply the two and add the cost of materials and you have a good starting point. If it works out to an arm and a leg then that is fine. If painting is not your primary business there is no reason to quote less than your normal hourly rate even if you think painting should be cheaper. And add about 35% to that to make sure that you have the headroom to pay your taxes. Do not gently caress with the tax man.
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Nov 19, 2022 06:21
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queeb, take what your honest "I think I should charge this" number is, double it, add 35% for taxes. That's your pricing. Repeat until orders stop then go back to the previous number. You're coming up into holiday season. Not only is your time about to get squeezed, but people who value money very differently than you do are looking for gifts that can't be purchased at Walmart.
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Nov 19, 2022 07:27
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insta posted:queeb, take what your honest "I think I should charge this" number is, double it, add 35% for taxes. That's your pricing. Repeat until orders stop then go back to the previous number.
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Nov 19, 2022 07:39
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if you sell your products for twice as much you only need to make half as many
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Nov 19, 2022 10:06
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queeb posted:ok friends i come to you for pricing advice. I have a dude that's been buying from me weekly for a few weeks now, saw a (amateur, im not amazing) paintjob from me on a stable I did and wants this bigass inn thing printed and painted, plus some scatter terrain to fill it. How much material will that use? Slice it to find out. Oh and that paint job is fine bordering on good. If you did some shading and highlights or maybe weathering, it’d be great. It’s very clean and even which is an accomplishment in itself.
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Nov 19, 2022 16:03
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Deviant posted:if you sell your products for twice as much you only need to make half as many He'll probably sell the same amount anyway since he's limited by time, not demand.
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Nov 19, 2022 16:56
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insta posted:queeb, take what your honest "I think I should charge this" number is, double it, add 35% for taxes. That's your pricing. Repeat until orders stop then go back to the previous number. This. Sit down when your painting and see how much time it uses. People price themselves wildly low for what should be considered an hourly rate.
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Nov 19, 2022 17:00
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Also, a general rule with any self-employed labor is that you don't just want to think about your rate as the time you spend "working." You need to do a lot of administrative work running your Etsy shop, dealing with customers, managing your finances, and secondary work like slicing models, maintaining your printers, etc. Your rate needs to reflect all of that. Do not do unpaid work. Ignoring the cost of the time you spend running your business is a one-way ticket to burn out.
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Nov 19, 2022 17:47
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It's also okay to do stuff as a learning experience and take a little of the pressure off.
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Nov 19, 2022 19:23
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queeb posted:here's my paintjob, pls be kind I am so conditioned by the media coming out of Ukraine this year that I’m expecting a missile to hit these buildings at any moment
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Nov 20, 2022 00:22
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Lmao I see it now. It printed like that!!!!
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Nov 20, 2022 01:40
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Is there a good filament I should be looking for Christmas ornaments? Looking to make some vase mode tree bulbs/decorations that I can light from the inside. I know white pla has been great for lithos, but I know there are certain petg's that comes recommended. In Canada if that makes a difference.
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Nov 20, 2022 05:33
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Does resin get old or something? Had to take months long break from printing. Back in to it now and it seems every single print is a failure. Everything so far has detached from the supports and left a puddle. Don't think I changed my settings, been doing roughly the same process as I remember and all the support contact points seem really brittle. When I separate the prints from the supports it breaks away suuuuuuper easily by hand. Like, too easily. Which seems to be causing the failures. There was a new version of Lychee which may have changed the settings when I wasn't looking, but trying to identify all possibilities.
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Nov 21, 2022 01:19
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Resin absolutely has a shelf life, and it completely depends on storage conditions. An opened bottle without any special treatment probably has like 6 months max? I know Formlabs resins are mostly 35 weeks for official shelf life.
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Nov 21, 2022 01:48
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bird food bathtub posted:Does resin get old or something? Had to take months long break from printing. Back in to it now and it seems every single print is a failure. Everything so far has detached from the supports and left a puddle. Don't think I changed my settings, been doing roughly the same process as I remember and all the support contact points seem really brittle. When I separate the prints from the supports it breaks away suuuuuuper easily by hand. Like, too easily. Which seems to be causing the failures. Don't forget about cold weather. Start with some calibrations and go from there. Thay said, for sure resin goes bad
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Nov 21, 2022 05:30
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I'm experimenting with trying different colour prints, so it'll pause partway through printing and I can swap the spool to a different colour. I seem to have found the settings in Prusaslicer and on the slicing screen it shows my colour changes and where I think the auto-pause is, at the layer between colours where prusaslicer says "m600"), which I believe is correct and it should stop printing there so I can change to a different colour. However whenever I try printing this model, it doesn't stop at those sections and just carries on with the same colour and I'm not sure what I've done wrong or missed. I'm using a Neptune 3 to print if that matters at all.
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Nov 21, 2022 14:28
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RoboJoe posted:However whenever I try printing this model, it doesn't stop at those sections and just carries on with the same colour and I'm not sure what I've done wrong or missed. I'm using a Neptune 3 to print if that matters at all. The Neptune 3's big downside is it's firmware is really basic, with pretty much all of the 'advanced' features in Marlin turned off. Chances are it's just ignoring the M600 command entirely. Good news is they have the source code on github, and others have forked versions with the various advanced features turned on.
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Nov 21, 2022 14:47
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BadMedic posted:The Neptune 3's big downside is it's firmware is really basic, with pretty much all of the 'advanced' features in Marlin turned off. Ahh, I see. Thanks, I didn't know the firmware isn't very good for this printer as it's been perfectly fine for everything I've wanted to do so far. I'll try to find that source code and figure out how to upgrade the firmware sometime! Edit: I saw this post on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune3/comments/yzto97/prusaslicer_and_incorrect_pauseresume_problem/ I started up a print, manually paused, and resumed and it didn't extrude any more, so I have this issue too. I've not needed to pause a print until I've tried manually pausing switching filaments mid-print today so maybe this is related to the auto-pause not functioning correctly. RoboJoe fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Nov 21, 2022 |
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Nov 21, 2022 14:59
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so, I left my resin+IPA mixture out in the sun in a cambro container to cure, and i have a nice layer of clear IPA on the top and all the resin has settled, but when i try to pour it through a coffee filter, it either just drips (like a coffee filter would?) or won't flow at all. how can i seperate these two without over-agitating the solution and mixing the cured resin back into it? i was thinking using a cup or container to scoop the clean ipa off the top and just discard the last inch or so? Maybe a different filter and a siphon pump+funnel? Edit: wham bam has a setup i particularly like, gonna grab some of this stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8jy0u7jqms Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Nov 21, 2022 |
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Nov 21, 2022 18:44
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Deviant posted:when i try to pour it through a coffee filter, it either just drips (like a coffee filter would?) or won't flow at all. Re-usable coffee filters seem to allow more flow than paper filters, but have fine enough mesh to capture most junk (I've used to filter loose tea recently)
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Nov 21, 2022 19:14
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Deviant posted:Edit: wham bam has a setup i particularly like, gonna grab some of this stuff. This video really captures the absolute worst part of this whole process, which is draining out those stupid rectangular containers all the wash and cure stations use. There's no loving way to do it without either taking forever or making a huge and probably unsafe mess. You can see all the IPA just going right down this dude's arm as he pours.
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Nov 21, 2022 19:24
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Paradoxish posted:This video really captures the absolute worst part of this whole process, which is draining out those stupid rectangular containers all the wash and cure stations use. There's no loving way to do it without either taking forever or making a huge and probably unsafe mess. You can see all the IPA just going right down this dude's arm as he pours. fuckin YUP. you gotta commit to a pour from that kind of container, if you try to slow roll it it just dribbles down the side. i was at one point looking into a clear pitcher for this reason, and I use a blacksmith's apron when doing anything w resin now. plus it makes me feel like the guy from I Did A Thing. How are you going?
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Nov 21, 2022 19:44
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Work smarter, not harder. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dyna-glo-dh-10-manual-kerosene-pump
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Nov 21, 2022 22:32
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I use normal paper coffee filters, just buy a hundred pack of the "gallon size" filters. I let my containers get blasted by the sun for a week or two, curing the snot out of it and simultaneously settling most of the cured resin to the bottom. Most of the poured IPA off the top is the clean IPA and it just flows through the filters pretty quickly. The grungy stuff at the bottom isn't enough to overflow the filters by the time I get down to that point. It does test my patience though if I were to let it go as the filter rate plummets quick with sedimentary crud so I use two filters for each pour. After 30 seconds to a minute I slide out the first coffee filter which has a majority of the really big chunks and goop stuck to it, then the second filter can proceed at an acceptable rate. I tried using a silicon pour spout on the lip of the container to prevent the splashing like that video has going down his arms in the first few seconds. None of the ones I found were more than like two inches long so they never wrapped around the mouth of the container enough to prevent the IPA from running back down the side of the container. Best I've found is to get a bigger target and pour it faster. If there are any tips for that I'd love to hear them. Might look into that hand pump linked above to get the bulk off the top and allow a manageable amount of remaining IPA to allow me to go YOLO pour all the time. Edit: Also I found out what was going on earlier. While my resin may be a bit old it's apparently not the issue. A new version of Lychee came out at some point and reset a bunch of settings. One of those settings was the tip width of support cones. The setting was down to the lowest I've ever seen the value, so supports were barely touching the model. I pulled up an old print I made a long time ago and wrote down the value ranges I was using in different situations and started applying them to new prints, now they're working fine. bird food bathtub fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 01:02
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Elegoo Neptune 3 havers: is the Bowden assembly/extruder a pain in the rear end or no? Was going to wait for the 3 pro to be available in Canada but who knows when that's happening
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Nov 22, 2022 03:27
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bird food bathtub posted:
Plz give settings, as this would explain my issues.
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Nov 22, 2022 07:35
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Mr. Mercury posted:Elegoo Neptune 3 havers: is the Bowden assembly/extruder a pain in the rear end or no? Was going to wait for the 3 pro to be available in Canada but who knows when that's happening Supposedly they have a thousand units being shipped to the US right now, so might not be too long.
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Nov 22, 2022 08:09
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I've been having persistent issues with the auto bed leveling on my Ender-3 S1 giving me worse results than manual calibration, with the mesh consistently underestimating the height of the left side of the bed and forcing the nozzle down into the bed surface, giving me real gnarly and inconsistent first layers. Trying to compensate by lowering the left screws caused the crash to get worse the next time it auto-leveled. If anyone else is having the same issue, I swapped out the CR-Touch mount and fan shroud with a print of this modified mount that lines up the tip of the probe with the nozzle, and after doing a couple test prints it looks like this has compensated for whatever was causing the probe to be consistently wrong before this. The Chairman fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 09:52
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Hm I started having weird base layer issues that I assumed was a slow clog. I was getting pristine prints without any changes (same model on repeat) and then suddenly a disaster. I went back to using a brim for the model and it looks like under extrusion so maybe I have a clog. Do the sprite direct drives have the same issue as the earlier Bowden tube Ended 3 models? I'll likely do a cold pull and replace the nozzle soon.
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Nov 22, 2022 13:29
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Mr. Mercury posted:Elegoo Neptune 3 havers: is the Bowden assembly/extruder a pain in the rear end or no? Was going to wait for the 3 pro to be available in Canada but who knows when that's happening Eh, it's been fine? I've only been printing in PLA, and the only time I had a problem with it was when I accidentally added a 0 to the flow rate, which was my own fault and not a problem with the extruder. Even then it just chewed up some filament, I was able to just snip that off and feed new stuff in and it's been fine. Otherwise there's been a bit of stringing here and there and that's it. I've heard direct drive is just better in general tho, so it's your call. BTW nice thing about Elegoo, they actually have a warehouse in Canada so shipping's pretty quick once it gets sent out.
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Nov 22, 2022 13:59
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