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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

epswing posted:

I've wondered, with the caliper still bolted, does pushing fluid up from the caliper with a syringe actually work in practice?

No idea, never needed to try any gonzo one weird trick bullshit like that.

MetaJew posted:

Yes there are washers on both sides of each banjo fitting.

This is something I was considering trying. I think I have a syringe to do it-- and a friend also offered to give me one to do just that.

I was thinking about doing this. May be hard to get them completely above the MC but I am probably going to try that next.

What do you put between the brake pads to keep from pushing the pistons out?

Usually nothing, just leave the pads in there and push them back out when you're done.

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epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Slavvy posted:

Usually nothing, just leave the pads in there and push them back out when you're done.

I think he means while the calipers are suspended above the MC, he’s concerned that if the pads aren’t blocked by something, they’ll fall out before making contact with each other.

2x6 block of wood? Doesn’t have to be any thicker than a rotor.

epswing fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Nov 19, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

They can't fall out they're held in there with pins. But yeah I guess you could stick some wood in there or something.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
At the risk of this turning into an even bigger comedy of errors, I think he thinks the pistons will fall out if the pads are not clamping onto something.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Same difference, it can't happen, the pads are in the way lol

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
My brain is very smooth these days so I guess I'm not speaking clearly. The pistons are held in place in the calipers simply by friction. I'm not referring to the pads.

While the caliper is installed on the rotor, the brake pads are pressed into the rotor, and the pistons cannot extend further out of the caliper.

If I remove the caliper from the rotor and squeeze the brake lever, the pistons should protrude out of the caliper without resistance.

All I was asking was this: If I removed the caliper from the bike and tried raising it above the BMC. Assuming I leave the pads installed, is it possible for the pistons to push out far enough to break their seal or otherwise cause issues? I suppose I could find a block of wood or something that will fit between the pads to prevent that from happening.

Edit: I tried the zip tie trick for 24+ hours and that seems to have done the trick. Brake pressure feels really great now-- I have to assume any air in the system is still there, and just better dissolved into the fluid though, right?

MetaJew fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Nov 19, 2022

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Question: i am looking for transparent brake line. Does it exist?

https://www.tps-racing.com/fg9439-30-fg-brake-line-clear-1-st.html

Is this stuff suitable for the high pressure side, or is it like the stuff that's between a reservoir and the master cylinder?
I have never ever seen transparent brake lines in the high pressure side of brake systems.

I will not be using it for a brake system, but for a small heat pump demonstration model. Brake parts are very easy to get, and very easy to manually get up to a good pressure, so that's the first thing i want to try out.
I want to show how the refrigerant liquifies with rising pressure. So i need something that's transparent, can handle a bit of heating up, and can ideally handle more than 6 bars for R-134a. Brake fittings can handle much more than 6 bars and are very easy to just bolt together, rather than having to solder everything together.

Return Loss
Jul 22, 2001

LimaBiker posted:

Question: i am looking for transparent brake line. Does it exist?

I've never seen or heard of any clear lines for the high pressure side. For connecting to a reservoir you have clear tubing from stuff like Tygon that can stand brake fluid. But the high pressure side is either reinforced black rubber or stainless braided.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

MetaJew posted:

All I was asking was this: If I removed the caliper from the bike and tried raising it above the BMC. Assuming I leave the pads installed, is it possible for the pistons to push out far enough to break their seal or otherwise cause issues? I suppose I could find a block of wood or something that will fit between the pads to prevent that from happening.

And I keep saying: no, that can't happen, the pads are in the way! Omg

LimaBiker posted:

Question: i am looking for transparent brake line. Does it exist?

Only in star trek

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Slavvy posted:

And I keep saying: no, that can't happen, the pads are in the way! Omg

The missed connection here is that you know how deep the pistons go into the caliper, and MetaJew doesn't. He is thinking that maybe if they come out an extra quarter inch with the rotor removed, that might break the seal or cause them to fall out. You know that the pistons are deeper than that and it's not a concern.

If you want to educate someone, it's important to try to understand what assumptions they might be making and approach your explanation from that point.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Makes no effort to answer the original question, breathlessly jumps at the chance to chide me.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Slavvy being slavvy and incapable of communicating. Tale old as time.



Sagebrush posted:

The missed connection here is that you know how deep the pistons go into the caliper, and MetaJew doesn't. He is thinking that maybe if they come out an extra quarter inch with the rotor removed, that might break the seal or cause them to fall out. You know that the pistons are deeper than that and it's not a concern.

If you want to educate someone, it's important to try to understand what assumptions they might be making and approach your explanation from that point.

Thanks pal.

When I was dealing with issues with the sliding two piston caliper there is nothing to stop the pistons from popping out so yeah, that was my concern.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

MetaJew posted:

Slavvy being slavvy and incapable of communicating. Tale old as time.

Thanks pal.

When I was dealing with issues with the sliding two piston caliper there is nothing to stop the pistons from popping out so yeah, that was my concern.

On those, the pads also stop the pistons from coming out.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Sagebrush posted:

If you want to educate someone, it's important to try to understand what assumptions they might be making and approach your explanation from that point.

This is good advice. To figure out what your audience knows means you can get from A to B painlessly. B is usually the same, but my A may not be your A, usually because one of us has made a false assumption. Seeking out and destroying the false assumption will often unlock the path to B with no further input needed.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002
unless I'm missing something - as long as the pads are in place, you do not have to worry about the pistons coming out so far that they will damage a seal or something. that said, if you pump them out far enough, it can be a pain to get them + the pads pushed back in enough to slip back down over the rotors

the zip tie trick just lets the air bubbles in the system get up into the fluid reservoir at their own leisure, it doesn't cause them to dissolve into the fluid or anything

Oibignose
Jun 30, 2007

tasty yellow beef
I think the pressure applied over time causes the air bubbles in the fluid to condense and they then have stored move molecules re easily and float up. A bit like getting the bends when diving except you get air where you want it, your fluid reservoir, rather than your brain. You don’t want air bubbles there.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
Wrenching on the not-mine lovely chinese moped again. It was falling on its face when given throttle. I know fuckall about carbs but this was the culprit:



My question is how does that even happen?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It didn't fit so someone forced it.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Slavvy posted:

It didn't fit so someone forced it.

I thought as much. Story is I fixed the thing last winter and it reportedly ran great until the sidestand cutoff switch broke. The operator who I know not to be great at wrenching probably took the carb apart a little trying to make moped run and made moped more broken in the process. I had that needle out last go around and it was straight then.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That screwed on top that requires no tools is so goddamn tempting to people. Pretty lucky it didn't break off and make friends with the engine.

A greatest hits of dumb poo poo people tamper with when they don't know anything:
Spark plug
Idle screw
Carb lid
Fuel line

All are easy to identify and don't need any tools that don't come with the bike

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
My '19 Tracer 900 is acting up. Tried riding it a few days ago when it was in the 20's thinking it being in the garage overnight might have helped. TFT dash and lights would turn on but click goes the starter with no turn over. Alright, I push it back in. Now today I've had it hooked up to the battery tender showing a charged status, and a space heater on it for an hour. Dash shoes ambient temp readings in the 60's but the cooler temp still as "Lo" and it still will not turn over. What am I missing?

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
The battery has probably poo poo the bed. You're a few winters in.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Yeah MC batteries are so small that I find if you kill them a few times it's game over. I'm religious about putting mine on tenders even during riding season now.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

I just ride :D

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TotalLossBrain posted:

The battery has probably poo poo the bed.

Megabook
Mar 13, 2019



Grimey Drawer
I bought a 2022 MT09 with 600 miles on the clock earlier this month, so still in manufacturers warranty. I know the real answer is take it to the dealer, but it's an intermittent fault, they're an hour away and I can see them being a pain to deal with so...

Maybe 1 in 5 times when I start it, probably less, it will idle at around 1600 RPM rather than the normal 1100 RPM. The throttle is also more sensitive and the revs won't drop back down as quickly or smoothly. Turning off the ignition then turning back on makes it behave normally. It's only happened from a cold start, so I wondered if it might have been a deliberate feature to help idling from cold, but I can't find it mentioned anywhere.

Any ideas? There's no bad lights on on the dash. Is it worth getting something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284830505044 to see if there are any weird readings such as a throttle sensor showing something other than 0 when not being touched?

Just saying, this wouldn't have been a problem on my carbed SV650...

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
Pretty sure this is normal cold start behavior for an efi bike, it's basically an auto-choke. Mine typically runs anything up to 3k for a couple of minutes after starting when it's really cold, compared to summer when it'll start at 1k and just stay there.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Megabook posted:

Maybe 1 in 5 times when I start it, probably less, it will idle at around 1600 RPM rather than the normal 1100 RPM.

If you wait long enough, does it eventually drop to a normal idle?

Megabook
Mar 13, 2019



Grimey Drawer

epswing posted:

If you wait long enough, does it eventually drop to a normal idle?

I've given it 5 minutes or so with no change? Maybe I need to be more patient.

The weird thing is after 5 minutes of this, then turning it off and back on it immediately goes to a normal idle.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That sounds pretty normal

Megabook
Mar 13, 2019



Grimey Drawer
Fair enough, I will have to get used to it! Otherwise, I am loving the MT09. I'm just trying to fight the urge to put a top box on it.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

Springfield Fatts posted:

My '19 Tracer 900 is acting up. Tried riding it a few days ago when it was in the 20's thinking it being in the garage overnight might have helped. TFT dash and lights would turn on but click goes the starter with no turn over. Alright, I push it back in. Now today I've had it hooked up to the battery tender showing a charged status, and a space heater on it for an hour. Dash shoes ambient temp readings in the 60's but the cooler temp still as "Lo" and it still will not turn over. What am I missing?

New battery fully charged, same issue with no change. Any other ideas?

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Next thing I would check is the condition of the connections for the main positive and ground cables.
I.e., make sure the connections to the starter relay and to the starter itself are tight and not corroded.
I'm assuming the battery terminals themselves are good and tight as you just replaced the battery.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Megabook posted:

I'm just trying to fight the urge to put a top box on it.
Surrender to the urge. Then start posting in the dadbike thread and enjoy practical (if unaesthetic) motorcycling.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

TotalLossBrain posted:

Next thing I would check is the condition of the connections for the main positive and ground cables.
I.e., make sure the connections to the starter relay and to the starter itself are tight and not corroded.
I'm assuming the battery terminals themselves are good and tight as you just replaced the battery.

Did that, but it's the damnedest thing. When I kicked it off it's side stand then put it on the center stand to prepare for digging in them guts I tried it one more time for some reason and all the pumps primed, hit the ignition and on it came. I'm wondering if some stupid safety switch was triggered or something. Still glad I replaced the battery though.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Megabook posted:

I bought a 2022 MT09 with 600 miles on the clock earlier this month, so still in manufacturers warranty. I know the real answer is take it to the dealer, but it's an intermittent fault, they're an hour away and I can see them being a pain to deal with so...

Maybe 1 in 5 times when I start it, probably less, it will idle at around 1600 RPM rather than the normal 1100 RPM. The throttle is also more sensitive and the revs won't drop back down as quickly or smoothly. Turning off the ignition then turning back on makes it behave normally. It's only happened from a cold start, so I wondered if it might have been a deliberate feature to help idling from cold, but I can't find it mentioned anywhere.

Any ideas? There's no bad lights on on the dash. Is it worth getting something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284830505044 to see if there are any weird readings such as a throttle sensor showing something other than 0 when not being touched?

Just saying, this wouldn't have been a problem on my carbed SV650...

This is just ~E F I T H I N G S~

The Goldwing idle swings around a bit until it warms up too

Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


Springfield Fatts posted:

Did that, but it's the damnedest thing. When I kicked it off it's side stand then put it on the center stand to prepare for digging in them guts I tried it one more time for some reason and all the pumps primed, hit the ignition and on it came. I'm wondering if some stupid safety switch was triggered or something. Still glad I replaced the battery though.

I'd check the side stand switch, then. Were you trying to start it in neutral on the side stand, before? Or in gear?

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Both in gear the first time a few days ago when it first failed to crank and in neutral when I had in the garage swapping the batteries.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Do you have a multimeter

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Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Slavvy posted:

No idea, never needed to try any gonzo one weird trick bullshit like that.

Del the dickhead on Delboy's Garage does it by pumping fluid up into the master cylinder and all it does is ensure your fresh fluid gets contaminated with old fluid and any poo poo in your master cylinder.

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