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I've never painted a big model before and I just got Morathi for my DoK army. Any recommendations about how best to paint that model?
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Nov 19, 2022 15:14
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Used the Citadel STC medium shade brush for the first time today. It's nice and big, it has a point, and it picks up and deposits paint. It had some flyaways when I unpacked it, but a few moments steaming it with a water kettle fixed that. I'll report more once I've painted something more difficult than the symbols on the Kill Team rulers.
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Nov 19, 2022 20:00
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Nebalebadingdong posted:incredible I love your work so much. It's amazing you get that level of detail on that scale
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Nov 19, 2022 20:11
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Well, y'all said it was okay to post even if you're terrible. Some friends started painting back in april, so in may, I joined them in picking my brushes back up, just for my own mental health. It's been pretty loving great, even if I'm not very good at this. Finished up a knight today, posed beside Akodo Forscale, the mini I did for my Heroes of Rokugan 5 character. I've been posting everything I paint to my mastodon account, just because.
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Nov 19, 2022 22:38
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NinjaDebugger posted:Well, y'all said it was okay to post even if you're terrible. Some friends started painting back in april, so in may, I joined them in picking my brushes back up, just for my own mental health. It's been pretty loving great, even if I'm not very good at this. You sell yourself short, these are really good!
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Nov 19, 2022 22:52
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NinjaDebugger posted:Well, y'all said it was okay to post even if you're terrible. Some friends started painting back in april, so in may, I joined them in picking my brushes back up, just for my own mental health. It's been pretty loving great, even if I'm not very good at this. Be kinder to yourself. You're better than most stuff I see at the place where I go to play wargames by a long shot.
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Nov 19, 2022 23:23
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Be kinder to yourself. You're better than most stuff I see at the place where I go to play wargames by a long shot. I went digging back through my mastodon posts and I have come... a long loving way in the past 4-7 months.
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Nov 19, 2022 23:35
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Started working on my crew for Space Station Zero, starting with the captain Decided to go with a selection of Broken Anvil minis for the crew. Still need to decide what to use for the robots and mutants.
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Nov 20, 2022 00:42
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I've started blocking in the colors on the anime and it's going faster than expected. Probably because this is simpler in some ways: a flat cartoon figure doesn't need hyper contrast realism and this will be hidden in a mech anyway. 
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Nov 20, 2022 02:48
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Really tried practing shading. Please rip it apart. Except for the skin, i phone that poo poo in because gently caress painting skin Edit: i fixed the copper bit on the antenna but too lazy to take a new pic and swap em out so just pretend     Cthulu Carl posted:Started working on my crew for Space Station Zero, starting with the captain I really like the pants, very well done My Spirit Otter fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 03:55
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My Spirit Otter posted:Really tried practing shading. Please rip it apart. Except for the skin, i phone that poo poo in because gently caress painting skin You actually did really well with shading on the greens, especially really well on the details of the imperial skull wing things. Mine always end up looking like a blotch of white, but yours hold up really well in close up. But the mold lines need to be addressed. Good prep work can greatly improve any model. To paraphrase Lincoln: "Give me six hours to paint a mini and I shall spend the first four removing mold lines and priming..."
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Nov 20, 2022 06:11
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My Spirit Otter posted:Really tried practing shading. Please rip it apart. Except for the skin, i phone that poo poo in because gently caress painting skin You need to push harder on value. I dunno if you're blending your paints too much or if you're getting too close while you paint, but to be really blunt, this looks like a basecoat with an edge highlight pass. Here's a sister I did earlier in the month, with varying levels of successful shading.  The blue pops, the white on the cloak is mostly dirty brown, and you can't tell I shaded the faceplate or the shoulder eagle at all, even though I worked over the white parts harder than anything else. As a general rule, when you're shading you need three distinct colors, your basecoat, your highlight, and your shadow. You don't necessarily need three whole distinct paints for this, but it can help. Make them distinct at a glance, even if that's not necessarily the same thing as vivid. Contrast is what'll help pick out the contours of your model. Let's look at some selections on my model and see where I did well and where I went wrong.  Area 1 has the highest contrast, 2 is about middling, and 3 is where I just absolutely hosed up. You can see the difference in the #1 color palette even in the image thumbnail, they're that distinct. That's a good look for things you really want to draw the eye to, which is maybe not the greatest option for those weird ball thingies on a power armor backpack. #2 is so-so - there's a good solid shadow there, but the highlight and the midtone aren't that far removed. That's not necessarily a bad thing, since it'd be weird if I wanted the thigh to really capture your attention, and there's enough distinct transition between the colors to be clear. #3, you have to look really close to be able to differentiate those colors, if you even can. As a result, the whole faceplate turns to mush, and there's not even enough contrast between the white and the blue on the helmet to make it pop. When you're checking your values, hold your mini out at arms length and squint at it. If you can still clearly make out the lighter and darker areas of your model, that's about right. You can do the same thing with my demo image - turn it back into a thumbnail and squint. You'll still be able to see the color contrast in box number 1, you might make it out with number 2, and 3 is going to be an indistinct off-white smear. Part of why this happens is, at least for me, getting really close to my minis and seeing what minute color differences I've set up. That's great if you're examining them under magnification and totally useless when you're looking at them on the table or the shelf. You've got to work fast and sloppy for a little while to break yourself of the habit. Likewise, it's real easy to get caught up in making a nice blend and not building up enough contrast, either in terms of raw value or the actual hues involved. It's really hard to stop doing that, and to embrace mixing up some weird shades to get the contrast you want, because it won't necessarily involve doing obvious things. Here's my suggestion for your next trooper. Get to the basecoat stage, where you've got your green laid out all over the uniform. Take your base green and mix it 1:1 with a good dark purple for your shadow and a strong golden yellow for your highlight. Get a big heavy drybrush, load it with the yellow-green, and drybrush the model from the top down. You want the most raised areas to pick up the greatest amount of this color. Now do the same thing, only hold the mini upside down and use the purple. Work really fast and don't concern yourself with being sloppy. You want results, not cleanliness, and you can always strip this one guy and try again. Your finished product is going to look kind of garish, but put it side by side with this guy and look at 'em both from table distance. It'll be ugly, but your technicolor trooper will definitely pop more. It is so ludicrously easy to let yourself get bogged down and lose sight of what makes your models stand out. I've been at this for years, and you can see I'm still pretty hit-and-miss. It's so much better to work big and broad now, and then once you've made that a reflex, then tighten things up.
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Nov 20, 2022 07:42
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That's really solid! I personally like it when the shadows are deeper and the highlight bigger, but that’s a style thing more than anything else. The skin just needs a "flesh wash” of some kind (I use AP's) to give it depth, and then you can go back and highlight the nose and the knuckles in off-white and boom, fine-looking skin.
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Nov 20, 2022 07:44
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Turbinosamente posted:I've started blocking in the colors on the anime and it's going faster than expected. Probably because this is simpler in some ways: a flat cartoon figure doesn't need hyper contrast realism and this will be hidden in a mech anyway. Wow Sakura Wars is still going on?! I havent heard from that since the mid-90's!
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Nov 20, 2022 08:16
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I wanted to try a technique mentioned in the thread and have had zero success with it. Someone recommended airbrush priming black then doing a zenithal with acrylic ink or just priming white with acrylic ink. The primer goes on fine as does the acrylic ink and looks really clean. As soon as I attempt to use a contrast paint on it, the ink reactivates and turns the whole thing into a clumpy mess. I’ve tried letting it dry overnight and it doesn’t make a difference. I’ve got a test of varnishing the model after priming and before painting that is drying right now. Anyone have a suggestion on how to keep the ink from reactivating as soon as I use a contrast? Edit: Varnish did not help. Even after the varnish should be absolutely dry the ink reactivated and mixed with the contrast paint. I’m guessing the ink reactivated on the varnish and mixed with it. Saltpowered fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 19:01
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What are you using for varnish? I've never had future polish reactivate anything. You might want to let the ink dry for a bit longer so it can cure. Curing and drying are slightly different things.
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Nov 20, 2022 20:00
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Marx Headroom posted:What are you using for varnish? I've never had future polish reactivate anything. Also, what kind/brand of ink? I've used the Daler/Rowney FW brand white ink with no reactivation problems. You want to make sure you have the acrylic type of ink that's labeled as "permanent".
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Nov 20, 2022 20:06
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Vallejo Black Primer with Liquitex White Acrylic Ink. I just used some testors dullcote for the varnish. I’m going to run another test of letting the Ink set overnight then letting the testors set overnight as will to see if that makes a difference. If that works, it’s a lot longer of drying time than just my usual white prime or zenithal but if it looks better it’s worth it.
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Nov 20, 2022 20:34
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Can you post pictures of what it looks like?
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Nov 20, 2022 20:43
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Saltpowered posted:Vallejo Black Primer with Liquitex White Acrylic Ink. I just used some testors dullcote for the varnish. I have never had the ink reactivate, admittedly I have not specifically used contrast paint over the top. I add a bit of matt varnish to the ink to dull it down a bit and have painted over pure ink of different colours multiple times as soon as it has dried with no issues. Liquixtex titanium white is the ink I normally use use when doing my priming.
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Nov 21, 2022 00:26
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Chromatics posted:Can you post pictures of what it looks like? Yep. I’ll add a few as soon as I’m back at my desk. One turned out lavender instead of shyish purple and the other is a blotchy mess. I can salvage the lavender without stripping but I’ll probably strip the blotchy one. Contrast usually goes on super light with no friction and very thin. The first brush stroke felt smooth but after that my brush felt thick like I was wet blending. Instead of the contrast paint coming out thin with rich color like I would expect on white primer it was opaque and a paler shade. I tried a few different parts of the model and colors and got the same reaction. The color was Shyish Purple so I expected a rich purple that thinned out as I spread it but I got lavender almost immediately. Some googling shows this is a frequent interaction between Liquitex and Contrast specifically. Most advice seems to be a combination of mix the ink extra well, add varnish to the ink when airbrushing, let the ink set overnight before doing anything else, varnish after airbrushing, don’t use contrast on Liquitex. I’ve got a few more figures that have dullcote applied that I’ll test the contrast on tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully that fixes it because the titanium white looks very good and thin as a primer.   Edit: Tried speed paint on the same models out of curiosity and it does not have the same issue. Goes on smooth and looks great. Just contrast that is reactivating the liquitex. Saltpowered fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Nov 21, 2022 |
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Nov 21, 2022 01:07
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xpost from 40k threadNazzadan posted:Broke out of my painting funk and knocked out this Abaddon that has been hanging out with my Emperor's Children warband for too long and decided to repaint his armor like ours for a while. Got some small cleanup on the back side and some more base layers so it doesn't just look like a mount of barf but I'm pretty happy calling it done
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Nov 21, 2022 01:44
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grassy gnoll posted:words This post really helped me out, as i was mixing lighter greens with darker greens to try to get shades, which is why it looks like theres only really edge highlighting. I took your post to heart, but instead of dry brushing, i painted on then smudged to blend.     Edit: i dont know how well this will translate, as im on mobile, but you can pick out details from a few feet away 
My Spirit Otter fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Nov 21, 2022 |
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Nov 21, 2022 02:05
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The photography is good too
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Nov 21, 2022 02:06
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GreenBuckanneer posted:The photography is good too As much as id love to take credit for that, i think my camera is doing the bulk of the lifting lol
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Nov 21, 2022 02:11
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Al-Saqr posted:Wow Sakura Wars is still going on?! I havent heard from that since the mid-90's! Sorta? Sega put out a 6th game like a couple years ago, might have been a soft reboot too? This kit is probably pretty old, it's for Sakura Wars 2. I imported it because I like Sakura Wars and little other reason.
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Nov 21, 2022 02:17
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Saltpowered posted:Vallejo Black Primer with Liquitex White Acrylic Ink. I just used some testors dullcote for the varnish. There's your problem, dullcote eats away a bit of the top layer of whatever you put it on because the solvent breaks up the surface for that ultra matte finish, you should always spray another varnish on before dullcoating things
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Nov 21, 2022 03:37
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It may also just be the ink. I generally give mine 24 hours to cure because I once ran into a similar issue. Everything looked dry and felt dry to the touch after an overnight wait, but just some water was enough to start peeling off the ink layer. The primer below was fine so definitely an ink problem
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Nov 21, 2022 05:03
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Saltpowered posted:Ink Reactivation That's strange, I used Liquitex Titanium White ink through my airbrush to prime all the "glow" areas on my Necrons and went over it almost immediately with Warp Lightning Contrast with no activation issues.
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Nov 21, 2022 05:18
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I haven't touched the hobby in years after losing all of my miniatures and painting supplies, but a very generous friend locally surprise-gifted me a big set of Pro Acryl paints and the Haqqislam half of the Operation Blackwind two-player box. I really missed painting. Here's a family photo of my first little Hassassin Bahram list.  I really never thought I'd touch miniatures and painting again, but the generosity of a pal really helped kickstart me back in.
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Nov 21, 2022 05:36
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Paintjob is 
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Nov 21, 2022 06:57
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Someone made a video about how my first few warhammer paint jobs are gonna look https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AAemdxSz2g
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Nov 21, 2022 19:55
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That ‘ardcoat demonette though Tempted to try and buy that one….
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Nov 21, 2022 20:31
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  More of this lad, did a wash and lit him up. Originally used too light a shade colour, but I darkened it up (Vallejo's Stormy Blue + Off White, added some more Stormy Blue) and I think it looks really neat. Washing of course brought out a lot of detail, it was great. I'll touch up the metal with some bright stuff (probably Shining Silver, same colour as the sword), and call him done. I will need a better camera app for my phone, to actually have some decent pictures for the next one(s), probably this dude's partner, then maybe a spearman from the same set, or some WizKids DnD stuff, that's what I have on hand
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Nov 21, 2022 21:39
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My Spirit Otter posted:This post really helped me out, as i was mixing lighter greens with darker greens to try to get shades, which is why it looks like theres only really edge highlighting. Yeah, that's the business. That's already so much more volume to the figure, and you could push it even further from there if you really wanted. I did the shades-of-the-same-color thing for ages, and it absolutely fell flat. I think you're absolutely on the right track, and I think you've got good blends going.
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Nov 21, 2022 21:43
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From a great rock on high, the king of beasts surveys his domain. While other great cats were content to ambush birds in their moments of weakness, he had greater ambition. There was much mockery, especially from the birds. They're not laughing anymore.   
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Nov 22, 2022 00:09
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Where did you get cat-bird-pig??
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Nov 22, 2022 00:29
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My Spirit Otter posted:Where did you get cat-bird-pig??  I'd like to know this too please!
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Nov 22, 2022 02:17
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My Spirit Otter posted:Where did you get cat-bird-pig?? Turbinosamente posted:
I always post links in my mastodon post, if they exist, to the STL for my printed minis, and know a goon who does the printing and supplies my resin crack. https://mastodon.sandwich.net/@NinjaDebugger/109384307531317648 This one's from Goonmaster Games, they have another sculpt of it, as well. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-flying-cat-2-127338
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Nov 22, 2022 02:49
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NinjaDebugger posted:I always post links in my mastodon post, if they exist, to the STL for my printed minis, and know a goon who does the printing and supplies my resin crack. pardon us for not following your mastodon
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Nov 22, 2022 03:06
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