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drk
Jan 16, 2005

Duckman2008 posted:

My request would be put in an example of what CD and I Bond interests rates pay out. Like “if you put $10k in and CDs are at 3%, got get this monthly.”

Hot take: CDs and I Bonds dont have much of a place in long term portfolios (short term savings or emergency funds, sure).

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dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
For a long time, with inflation at record low levels, there really wasn’t anywhere better to put mid term savings other than HYSAs and this thread’s consensus was that anything below 10 years was too short-term for Index funds.

I-Bonds kind of threw that for a loop, but I don’t know if there’s a similar alternative outside of that.

dpkg chopra fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Nov 20, 2022

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
CD and bond ladders entered in to prior short term conversations.

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

drk posted:

Hot take: CDs and I Bonds dont have much of a place in long term portfolios (short term savings or emergency funds, sure).

I agree with this , but emergency savings is still a part of long term savings. So I think we both agree, just from different angles.

doingitwrong
Jul 27, 2013
I would add Morgan Housel’s The Psychology of Money as an excellent getting started with mindsets guide (up there with If You Can) https://www.amazon.com/Psychology-Money-Timeless-lessons-happiness/dp/0857197681

And maybe a link to the Bogleheads Wiki https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Getting_started among the resources.

The big FAQ section is “I'm in my early 20s, why do I need to save for retirement?“ But given the SA demographics, it might be good to also have, “I’m in my mid 40s, is it too late for me?” section. (The problem with all the compound interest stories aimed at young people is that they communicate to older people that it’s too late to bother.)

Ben Felix’s intro video to the value of financial literacy might be another nice starting resource. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RzO26Sxsug

galenanorth
May 19, 2016

edit: nm

galenanorth fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Nov 20, 2022

drk
Jan 16, 2005
update on TIPS vs I Bonds from the always good tipswatch: https://tipswatch.com/2022/11/20/i-bonds-vs-tips-right-now-its-clearly-advantage-tips/

Space Fish
Oct 14, 2008

The original Big Tuna.



This was a very good article, thank you. Acknowledged the advantages of each, even if TIPS have objectively superior performance in terms of real yield (balanced somewhat by their deflationary downside risk).
I think a lot of conversation around TIPS weirdly skips over what they return compared to I Bonds, hence the zeitgeist around the comparatively simpler I Bonds.

FOR EXAMPLE:

The I Bonds rate is currently 6.89%. That annualized rate is only guaranteed for six months' worth of accrual, so it could be understood as "paying back" 3.445% (leave the wait period aside).
30-year TIPS currently have a real yield of 1.63%. I Bonds can only "keep up with" Consumer Price Index inflation (zero real yield without a good fixed rate), whereas TIPS exceed CPI and produce a real yield. Why don't TIPS advocates cut to the chase and say, "I Bonds will pay 6.89% for now, but TIPS are currently set to pay 8.52%?" I Bond hounds are attracted to the high number, so why not sell TIPS as a higher number instead of describing their conceptual advantage? By the time a TIPS explanation is concluded, I Bonds look even better for their safety and simplicity.

If the answer is, "I Bonds are just TIPS for simpletons," well, at least their inflation-matched return has no downside or secondary market to fleece them, or me.

DNK
Sep 18, 2004

The imho biggest difference between I-Bonds and TIPS is the fact that TIPS are sold as 5, 10, or 30 year bonds while I-Bonds — at worst — can be redeemed to the treasury at any point after a single year (with a minor penalty).

TIPS bonds can be resold on the secondary market (which is fairly liquid), but that’s where it gets weird for me. Is their secondary market price 99.99% aligned with their value-to-duration? Is this just perfectly normal? I’m waffling on this maybe due to conflating bond funds vs single-bond TIPS sale. Someone help, lol.

drk
Jan 16, 2005
The secondary market for TIPS is a bit confusing since all of the following are a factor in the price if I understand correctly:

Inflation index for the TIPS
Coupon yield vs current market yield
Accrued interest
Bid/ask spread

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer
My opinion would be:

For long term investing: both Tips and I Bonds are fine. Accounts like a Roth IRA should be maxed first though.


Short term: I Bonds are fine, Tips I would only do it , well, it’s the 5 year minimum , etc.


As part of an e fund: I Bonds yes (but not the majority of said e fund), tips def no

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


drk posted:

Maybe an example of a simple three fund portfolio with ETFs? I think a lot of people think its more complicated or more expensive than it really is to make a simple, diversified portfolio.

This is covered in the bogleheads lazy portfolios link in the OP.

raminasi posted:

The OP spends most of its time on investing theory, but maybe some content about practice is worthwhile too? One idea would be brief description of what the backdoor Roth and mega-backdoor Roth are, and links to the respective Bogleheads wiki pages. Another option would be a discussion of worthwhile places to set up accounts (Vanguard and Fidelity, basically.)

Added.

GhostofJohnMuir posted:

probably would be worthwhile to add the basic financial independence flowchart from reddit



the listed books are still all relevant and worthwhile to read, but i would consider adding morgan housel's psychology of money which was published well after the op stopped updating. it's an easy read, i enjoyed it and i see it recommended by a lot of people i respect

Added.

Duckman2008 posted:

Great idea , thank you for working on it.

As someone already posted , def the flow chart.

My request would be put in an example of what CD and I Bond interests rates pay out. Like “if you put $10k in and CDs are at 3%, got get this monthly.”

I added a "help I don't understand bonds!" section.

Fozzy The Bear posted:

It would be cool if there was a "medium-long term" side note in the OP. What to do with money you are saving for 5, 10, or 15 years.

e: emergency savings that you never needed to touch for 10 years. Saving for a down payment for 5 years. etc

Medium term is tough to answer for all cases in OP but I added a generic pointer about asking in thread regarding things a few years out or over medium term.

doingitwrong posted:

I would add Morgan Housel’s The Psychology of Money as an excellent getting started with mindsets guide (up there with If You Can) https://www.amazon.com/Psychology-Money-Timeless-lessons-happiness/dp/0857197681

And maybe a link to the Bogleheads Wiki https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Getting_started among the resources.

The big FAQ section is “I'm in my early 20s, why do I need to save for retirement?“ But given the SA demographics, it might be good to also have, “I’m in my mid 40s, is it too late for me?” section. (The problem with all the compound interest stories aimed at young people is that they communicate to older people that it’s too late to bother.)

Ben Felix’s intro video to the value of financial literacy might be another nice starting resource. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RzO26Sxsug

Added the book. Specific bogleheads wiki pages are linked in a few places elsewhere in OP but I added it anyway. I'd prefer not to add a video to the OP. Made the "I'm in my mid 40s" addition: have a look at the new end of the OP. Made the "20s" section a little less scary for 40-year-olds who are behind.

Added a HYSA churning section. I also edited many dead or redirected links. I also rearranged the books a bit and updated some of their outdated Amazon links. I also added "Why Minsky Matters" -- https://www.amazon.com/Why-Minsky-Matters-Introduction-Economist/dp/0691159122 -- great book! Finished it recently.

Please have a look, all, and let me know if you'd like to see further changes. If you want specific content added -- please link or draft the content!

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Space Fish posted:

the comparatively simpler I Bonds.

Currently holding TIPS but not I bonds cuz was simpler to acquire :P

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye

Epitope posted:

Currently holding TIPS but not I bonds cuz was simpler to acquire :P

You know aside from the terrible 'type with a mouse' keyboard security, once I got my account and log-in for my i-bonds, it's not that terrible of an interface. I'll write it a 6/10 with 10/10 being the Veterans Affairs computer system log-in for absolute frustration.

drk
Jan 16, 2005
Took a plunge in the TIPS secondary market to see how it works....

Yield for a ~14 month duration was 2.665% real.

Here's what the math looked like at purchase for the curious:



This is either:

1) A very good deal

2) I misunderstood something

3) Market is pricing in deflation risk (TIPS lose value if CPI goes negative, unlike I Bonds)

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


drk posted:

Took a plunge in the TIPS secondary market to see how it works....

Yield for a ~14 month duration was 2.665% real.

Here's what the math looked like at purchase for the curious:



This is either:

1) A very good deal

2) I misunderstood something

3) Market is pricing in deflation risk (TIPS lose value if CPI goes negative, unlike I Bonds)

I’m guessing you’re running into a variant of what this guy walks through?

https://tipswatch.com/2022/09/02/whats-up-with-those-crazy-real-yields-on-ultra-short-term-tips/

(deflation risk premium)

drk
Jan 16, 2005
Yes, I think so.

Here's the outcomes as I see it:

Significant deflation (Inflation below -2.6%): this bond loses money in nominal terms
Minor deflation (0 to -2.6%): this bond makes money in nominal terms, but not a lot as deflation adjustments eat up some of the positive real yield
Minor inflation (0 - 2%): this bond makes money, but normal treasuries make more (currently yield on a 1 yr nominal is about 4.7%)
Moderate or high inflation (>2%): this bond returns more than nominal treasuries of similar duration

The last category certainly seems like the most likely outcome to me, and its effectively paying a premium because you are taking on the risk of the first 3 outcomes

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

@pmchem I think OP should say somewhere near the top that almost all of the advice given is specifically tailored for Americans living in America. I have no idea what advice we should give to others, but if thread denizens do, maybe we could develop a section for them as well.

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!
They should just move to America.

an iksar marauder
May 6, 2022

An iksar marauder glowers at you dubiously -- looks like quite a gamble.
european situations differ wildly from country to country so at least that part of the world is better off looking on their reddit or whatever for specific advice. the very general stuff like having an efund, index funds etc, that all works the same. you can avoid taxes in different ways in europe and homeownership sometimes is incentivized more than in the US

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Just so I'm clear "2.65% real yield" means CPI + 2.65%?

And do you have to wait to maturity, or can you sell it whenever (losing the accrued interest ofc).

drk
Jan 16, 2005

dpkg chopra posted:

Just so I'm clear "2.65% real yield" means CPI + 2.65%?

And do you have to wait to maturity, or can you sell it whenever (losing the accrued interest ofc).

Yes CPI + 2.65%, including if that is negative

And no you dont have to wait until maturity to sell, but the price you can get on the secondary market at any specific time has a lot of factors involved and TIPS can lose value. You will get paid for accrued interest on the secondary market. If you do hold them to maturity, secondary market factors dont matter, you will get exactly what you paid for.

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


Leperflesh posted:

@pmchem I think OP should say somewhere near the top that almost all of the advice given is specifically tailored for Americans living in America. I have no idea what advice we should give to others, but if thread denizens do, maybe we could develop a section for them as well.

BFC has a Canadian thread, I'll add that to OP...
(edit: also a UK thread, almost forgot)

an iksar marauder posted:

european situations differ wildly from country to country so at least that part of the world is better off looking on their reddit or whatever for specific advice. the very general stuff like having an efund, index funds etc, that all works the same. you can avoid taxes in different ways in europe and homeownership sometimes is incentivized more than in the US

...but yeah. it'd be impossible to provide a small, general, and useful section for all non-US in the OP, and also keep it up-to-date in a US-centric thread. People can still ask questions here and see if they get an answer, or start their own ex-US thread if someone has the will and the posting skills.

pmchem fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Nov 22, 2022

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah I just recall a handful of times where someone dropped into this thread and asked a few questions and got answers and then it came out they weren't in America and the advice they were being given was therefore wildly off the mark. Some kind of clear disclaimer might be in order. People can still ask for generalized advice, like "should I save money" and get answers like "yes, you should, and see if there's a way to do that that legally avoids taxes and high fees" here in this thread of course.

e. And I see you already added one, that looks fine to me!

smackfu
Jun 7, 2004

Just add “US” to the start of the thread title.

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


moved disclaimer up closer to the top of OP, added bold.

I'd prefer not to change thread title since this isn't really a common issue and SA itself is very US-centric.

SpelledBackwards
Jan 7, 2001

I found this image on the Internet, perhaps you've heard of it? It's been around for a while I hear.

smackfu posted:

Just add “US” to the start of the thread title.

Does that include the Estados Unidos Mexicanos?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_that_include_United_States_in_their_name

Vice President
Jul 4, 2007

I'm number two around here.


no, that's obviously the EU

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Uhhh no that's the États Unis

Atahualpa
Aug 18, 2015

A lucky bird.
How is it determined what year a 401k contribution is applied to - your official payday, when you are actually paid, when the pay period ends, or something else altogether? Or is this one of those things where it depends on your company/payroll processor?

Context: I'm a federal employee and have set up my TSP contributions to hit the $20,500 limit by the end of the year. However, I just checked my paystubs and my contribution for the last pay period of 2021 is being included with my YTD total for 2022, so I'll need to adjust my contributions for the remaining pay periods. The last pay period this year ends exactly December 31st, so the pay period ends in 2022 but we won't get paid until 2023. I'm trying to figure out which year my contribution for that pay period will count towards.

WithoutTheFezOn
Aug 28, 2005
Oh no
Log in to TSP and look at the date a contribution hits your account.

I *think* it’s your official pay day (in our case that was 10 days after the end of the pay period) but don’t take my word for it.

Atahualpa
Aug 18, 2015

A lucky bird.
Huh, it looks like the most recent contribution was made on 11/15, which is none of the above (one day after I was paid, two before the official pay date). Thanks for the tip though, can extrapolate from there to see that the pay period 26 contribution will likely be counted towards 2023.

pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.
Tax related stuff is usually on a cash basis, so when the funds arrive to wherever or are owed should be the answer.

Cassius Belli
May 22, 2010

horny is prohibited

pseudanonymous posted:

Tax related stuff is usually on a cash basis, so when the funds arrive to wherever or are owed should be the answer.

Counterexample: My company drops 401k contributions on the Tuesday after payday, for whatever perverse reason. Very often my last December withholdings won't show up in the account until the first couple days of January, but they always count as "previous year" for limit/tax/etc purposes. I'd ask someone in HR/payroll or something.

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!
My 401k gives me access to a few different total US market index funds, and I'm wondering which to go with.

They offer Vanguard's VTSAX with an ER of .04, but also iShares' BKTSX at .03 and Fidelity's FSKAX at .01.

I am unfamiliar with the iShares and Fidelity funds. Are they worth choosing for the slightly lower ER, or does Vanguard offer a better index fund?

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut

literally this big posted:

My 401k gives me access to a few different total US market index funds, and I'm wondering which to go with.

They offer Vanguard's VTSAX with an ER of .04, but also iShares' BKTSX at .03 and Fidelity's FSKAX at .01.

I am unfamiliar with the iShares and Fidelity funds. Are they worth choosing for the slightly lower ER, or does Vanguard offer a better index fund?

They follow different indices & would be useful for TLH purposes if this were a taxable account.

I would not expect a material performance difference from any of them. If it were me I'd take the Fidelity fund.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

CubicalSucrose posted:

They follow different indices & would be useful for TLH purposes if this were a taxable account.

I would not expect a material performance difference from any of them. If it were me I'd take the Fidelity fund.

There's an argument to be made to not use the same fund in a 401k as a taxable account, since purchases in the 401k can trigger a wash sale in the taxable account if you sell in the taxable account at a loss. This is especially problematic in a 401k where automatic purchases are made once a month or more often.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

These ERs are all very low, it can help to conceptualize them as actual dollar amounts:

For each $100,000 invested for the year:
VTSAX costs you $40 a year
BKTSX costs you $30 a year
FSKAX costs you $15 a year (the ER is actually 0.015)

At this level the ER differences really don't matter, even though they're all broad US indexes they're not 100% identical and will perform very close to one another but probably deviate by more than these ERs annually just from their minor holding differences.

VTSAX tracks the CRSP US Total Market Index
BKTSX tracks the Russell 3000
FSKAX tracks the Dow Jones U.S. Total Stock Market Index

Composition, dividend payout, the dollar cost of each share, or some other consideration could matter to you. If they don't matter at all, FSKAX is fine and saves you a few bucks a year.

incogneato
Jun 4, 2007

Zoom! Swish! Bang!

Atahualpa posted:

How is it determined what year a 401k contribution is applied to - your official payday, when you are actually paid, when the pay period ends, or something else altogether? Or is this one of those things where it depends on your company/payroll processor?

Context: I'm a federal employee and have set up my TSP contributions to hit the $20,500 limit by the end of the year. However, I just checked my paystubs and my contribution for the last pay period of 2021 is being included with my YTD total for 2022, so I'll need to adjust my contributions for the remaining pay periods. The last pay period this year ends exactly December 31st, so the pay period ends in 2022 but we won't get paid until 2023. I'm trying to figure out which year my contribution for that pay period will count towards.

I have no idea if this sort of thing is agency specific, but mine sent out an email that had this info in it:

quote:

You can make a new TSP election at any time; however, the last official pay date for calendar year 2022 will be December 29th for Pay Period 25. Therefore, TSP changes for 2023 should be effective Pay Period 26 of 2022 to maximize your TSP contributions for 2023.

Employees who wish to contribute the maximum amount of regular contributions only for 2023, should submit a contribution election of $866 per pay period, effective Pay Period 26 of 2022.

The last payment in 2023 will be automatically reduced to avoid exceeding the annual limit. With this election amount, you will reach the annual limit on the last pay date of the calendar year and assure maximum agency contributions.

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literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

CubicalSucrose posted:

They follow different indices & would be useful for TLH purposes if this were a taxable account.

I would not expect a material performance difference from any of them. If it were me I'd take the Fidelity fund.
Yep, in a Roth 401k so I'm not thinking about TLH/TGH at all. It looks like Fidelity's ER is actually .015, not .01. My provider also charges a .21 Net Asset Fee, so the total ERs would be 0.25 for Vanguard and .0225 for Fidelity, which would diminish Fidelity's relative ER advantage (although it could also be good reason to try to reduce ER as much as possible). Vanguard has a few more holdings, and a higher total net assets. Vanguard might just be the best choice, given they they may reduce their ER even further in the future.

drk posted:

There's an argument to be made to not use the same fund in a 401k as a taxable account, since purchases in the 401k can trigger a wash sale in the taxable account if you sell in the taxable account at a loss. This is especially problematic in a 401k where automatic purchases are made once a month or more often.
I only hold VTSAX in my IRA account, so I'm not worried about wash sales at all.

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