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More brake chat: after new rotors, sintered pads, and caliper rebuilds, I think I might bleed again. Lever seems to have softened up, or maybe sintered pads don't bite well when it's 40F? Since the brake overhaul I expected a better or more aggressive feel which wasn't there, and on the two rides this week in the cold it seemed a bit worse than it has been.
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Nov 25, 2022 04:45
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Did you bed the brakes in?
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Nov 25, 2022 04:51
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I have a track day on saturday and the weather has been poo poo so I haven't had a chance to bed my EBC HH (sintered) pads yet. I guess I'm just gonna take it easier in the morning sessions and try to get them heated and bedded?
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Nov 25, 2022 06:15
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Slavvy posted:Did you bed the brakes in? On the first ride after replacement I did a number of quick braking runs from like 80-30 to get them up to temp
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Nov 26, 2022 03:34
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I'm a bit confused about checking spark. I've got an MTS1100 that's only running on one cylinder and I'd like to know what's up with that. When pulling a spark plug and grounding it against the frame, should the fuel system be disabled or is it alright to have a gas mist just spraying out of the spark plug hole? The injectors, fuel pump and ignition are on the same fuse, so pulling those won't let me test. Do I need to pull injector connectors to do this? None of the youtube videos I've seen on the topic mention that, but then again, they're not testing dual spark engines.
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Nov 26, 2022 05:49
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Leave the plugs in. Buy a spare spark plug and use that for the test. They cost like three dollars. It is technically okay to leave the plug hole open as long as you're grounding the plug well away from that area and not doing it for very long, but I've never been very comfortable with that. Get a spare plug. Or use Sagebrush's Special technique: pull the boot off and hold it in your hand while cranking. If your arm spasms and feels like someone hit it with a switch, you probably have spark Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Nov 26, 2022 |
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Nov 26, 2022 05:59
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Sagebrush posted:Leave the plugs in. Buy a spare spark plug and use that for the test. They cost like three dollars. Both of these methods work well, the latter is often part of a streamlined diagnostic procedure done so seamlessly you feel like you didn't even mean to
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Nov 26, 2022 06:36
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Sagebrush posted:Leave the plugs in. Buy a spare spark plug and use that for the test. They cost like three dollars. Excellent, thanks. A moment of inattention and I'm now a proud inductee (heh) into the Sagebrush method. In conclusion, I have spark and the problem is elsewhere.
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Nov 26, 2022 06:40
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If you can get the intake off enough to look down the TB's, try opening the throttle about half while cranking and see if any fuel is spraying into the bad cylinder. Also you might have spark but you might not have a good plug, although with dual spark this is considerably less likely
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Nov 26, 2022 06:50
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Yeah, getting shocked just tells you that there is some sort of high voltage coming from the ignition. Doesn't tell you how hot that spark really is -- at least until you have a lot of experience with my technique. *twitch* oh, yeah, that's only like 1kv, you got a bad condenser *uncontrollably punches self in chest* whoooooooweeeeee yep you got no spark issues here
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Nov 26, 2022 07:33
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Slavvy posted:If you can get the intake off enough to look down the TB's, try opening the throttle about half while cranking and see if any fuel is spraying into the bad cylinder. This is a LOT easier to understand than faffing with a multimeter, thanks. That said, the process of getting down to the TBs on a Multi 1100 makes hooking the fuel system back up to do that ... uh ... yeah. I'll still give it a go, it's just going to involve buying a sex swing for the tank.
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Nov 26, 2022 08:59
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Or some blocks of wood and a mirror on a stick
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Nov 26, 2022 09:01
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Everyone should have a little dentist's mirror and an assortment of wedges and blocks of soft wood.
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Nov 26, 2022 13:31
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Little fiber optic USB cameras that connect to your phone are also great for this
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Nov 26, 2022 16:01
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Yeah, those are like $15 now so there's no reason to not have one. One of those tools that you don't need very often, but is super useful the one time you do
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Nov 26, 2022 21:39
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Slavvy posted:blocks of wood Unironically some of the most useful tools in the garage. I keep a variety around, lengths of 4x4 are best.
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Nov 30, 2022 12:15
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Slavvy posted:If you can get the intake off enough to look down the TB's, try opening the throttle about half while cranking and see if any fuel is spraying into the bad cylinder. This was the problem, btw, regardless of the way the tank was ultimately suspended. The horizontal injector wasn't spritzing. I cleaned and swapped the injectors over and the problem didn't move with the 'dud' injector. Given that I've got fuel pressure, voltage to the injector and continuity to the ECU, I guess the ECU isn't grounding the circuit to fire the horizontal injector and it's off to ebay I go for a replacement bike brain.
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Dec 1, 2022 00:51
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MetaJew posted:I have a track day on saturday and the weather has been poo poo so I haven't had a chance to bed my EBC HH (sintered) pads yet. I guess I'm just gonna take it easier in the morning sessions and try to get them heated and bedded? So the EBC HH pads seemed to have great stopping force despite not getting a chance to really bed in the brakes. With that said, I was never able to get my BMC feeling "the way it should". I was able to squeeze the brakes on a few other bikes that had the RCS 19, and they were all stiff as a board with instant pressure, while mine has several centimeters (measured from the end of the lever) of travel before building pressure. Stopping power was good, and I felt like I could brake later on the straights, than with the factory calipers and whatever pads I had on there previously. I assume this is due to the new pads. I borrowed an air-compressor-powered vacuum bleeding device, and also tried several more times to hand bleed the brakes over the period of the day and nothing would get rid of that travel in the BMC. I ultimately emailed Sportbike Track Gear about a replacement or exchange, and they pointed me to the US Brembo distributor, so I'm waiting on an answer from them. My only guess is either that I have a defective BMC or there is a leak somewhere around the brake calipers, but I haven't noticed a loss in fluid levels. I also ordered some new OEM brake bleeder nipples and thread sealant from Speed Bleeder to try and rule out the possibility that as I'm bleeding the brakes some small amount of air could be entering through loose threads, but that seems like a long shot. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Dec 1, 2022 |
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Dec 1, 2022 01:22
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prukinski posted:This was the problem, btw, regardless of the way the tank was ultimately suspended. You should really test this before buying a whole ecu because the overwhelming weight of conventional wisdom indicates that it's never the ECU (except when it is). You might just have an issue in the wiring harness MetaJew posted:So the EBC HH pads seemed to have great stopping force despite not getting a chance to really bed in the brakes. With that said, I was never able to get my BMC feeling "the way it should". I was able to squeeze the brakes on a few other bikes that had the RCS 19, and they were all stiff as a board with instant pressure, while mine has several centimeters (measured from the end of the lever) of travel before building pressure. I can't remember, is this with rebuilt calipers or nah?
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Dec 1, 2022 04:01
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Slavvy posted:You should really test this before buying a whole ecu because the overwhelming weight of conventional wisdom indicates that it's never the ECU (except when it is). You might just have an issue in the wiring harness Rebuilt calipers by a friend. I still need to take them off the bike and figure out if the pistons are moving smoothly. I didn't get around to it before last weekend.
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Dec 1, 2022 07:56
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I appear to have goofed. I took off the right brake caliper to take a look at how smoothly the pistons were moving. As I expected, they had a lot of stiction. I took a toothbrush and soapy water to each of the pistons and pushed them back in. Then pulled the brake lever to see if they were moving smoothly. Repeated that several times until 3 out of 4 of the pistons were moving freely. Maybe I got a little to overzealous either squeezing the brake lever, or pushing the piston back in, but one of the dust seals looks like it has blown out or popped out. Is this going to require totally disassembling the caliper to replace or reinstall that dust seal? My friend claimed he had rebuilt these calipers. But then I think they sat for at least a year in his workshop, so maybe the seals dried out a bit and were sticking? What should I do here?  
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Dec 3, 2022 02:58
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Piston has to come out, that dust seal is almost certainly hosed.
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Dec 3, 2022 03:09
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Slavvy posted:Piston has to come out, that dust seal is almost certainly hosed. So it's probably best just to buy two new rebuild kits and rebuild both calipers, right? Although, while this caliper is still assembled I can still go to the other side and scrub those pistons and see how well they are all moving. Looks like I can buy a brake piston pulling tool to make disassembly a little easier, instead of trying to use an air compressor to pop them out.
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Dec 3, 2022 03:14
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Yeah just get the seal kits, not like they're expensive and that way you can be certain. Those tools definitely vary in quality and usefulness, imo they make things more convenient when they're going well and are totally useless when the pistons don't want to come out.
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Dec 3, 2022 03:26
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I don't see any wear/cracking/problems with the front brake line, but they're the stock 17 year old brake hoses. Should I replace the lines just due to age, given I'll be already rebuilding the MC/caliper sometime this winter? Or if it looks fine then it is fine? Bonus question, everyone else seems to be able to route a single length of hose from the MC to the caliper, what's with this weird stock Harley banjo -- hose -- rigid metal thing -- hose -- banjo setup? Is it just """aesthetics"""? If so it looks like poo poo to me. 
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Dec 5, 2022 21:05
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1. It's fine don't bother 2. It's so they can have the same basic chassis with different moving bits at either end Many, many Japanese bikes have hard lines too.
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Dec 5, 2022 22:14
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Slavvy posted:You should really test this before buying a whole ecu because the overwhelming weight of conventional wisdom indicates that it's never the ECU (except when it is). You might just have an issue in the wiring harness I picked up a new ECU for a steal off the local craigslist equivalent which seemed to sort out some of the bike's jankiness (oh wow, the dash remembers the actual bike model now) but you're right, it probably (maybe?) wasn't the overall problem. It turns out GuzziDiag only fires the vertical injector in diag mode, and the fuel system worked fine when I was cranking the bike for real. Anyway far as I can tell the root issue was the CuStoM MaP the previous owner had on the bike, which ran so rich at low rpm that it fouled my plugs over a month of mixed city/country use. I bought it off a country boy that never needed to idle it in traffic so the hosed low-end fuelling wasn't an issue for him. In the end, swapping the plugs out was what got the bike going after getting closer-but-no-cigar reflashing the old ECU with a stock map (no dice), swapping in the new ECU with a stock map (cranked easier but still wouldn't catch) and swearing at it. Strangely, the plugs I removed *did* spark against the frame before I faffed around with the rest of this stuff, so I hadn't thought that was the problem, but they were pretty gross and maybe a bit inconsistent? Anyway, no doubt if I swap in the original ECU with the appropriate map in again, changing it will turn out to have been a waste of money. But I guess it's nice to have a spare at a bargain price. ANYWAY, another question about a different bike. What's the deal with clutch pressure plate bolts? Do these need to be to manufacturer spec or will any appropriate length/thread replacement do? I only ask because a lot of the clutch pressure plate bolts I've taken out and re-torqued in the past (admittedly on KTMs and Aprilias) have had the resilience of aged cheddar and I wonder if that's by design. I've always torqued them incrementally in a criss-cross pattern and they've still been very likely to snap. These have all been on bikes with ~40k kilometers or more on them, so is it just a stress-over-time thing? prukinski fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Dec 5, 2022 |
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Dec 5, 2022 23:43
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1. You have a tampered with guzzi and I didn't realize that, RIP 2. They are cheese by design because they go into an alloy thread and it serves as a bit of insurance, but you can replace them with anything you like as long as the shape etc is right. They aren't doing anything functional for the clutch, they just keep the springs pinned.
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Dec 6, 2022 00:15
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Slavvy posted:1. You have a tampered with guzzi and I didn't realize that, RIP 1. Nah, a Ducati. (MTS1100). GuzziDiag is just the easiest diag/reflashing software to use with it because there's some ECU overlap in ITALYWORLD, and the specific Ducati software keeps getting cease-and-desisted by Gigi. 2. Thank you! prukinski fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Dec 6, 2022 |
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Dec 6, 2022 00:28
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My bike runs like it's draining the carburetor bowl. It has been pErFoRmAnCe TuNeD from Dutch preteen spec (25km/h) to raw unrestricted Turkish superman* spec, including replacing 12mm carb with 17.5mm Dellorto PHVA. What are the chances a Dellorto came out of the box with a misadjusted float? Or, what are the chances fuel supply is being constrained by a fuel hose or petcock sized for the factory motor with less power? (There is no fuel filter to clean, and no rust in a plastic tank.) Is there some kind of magic in the oil-mixing, automatic electric choke, black box of a carburetor to make sure the gas/oil mixture stays right that cuts the fuel off? *turkish superman https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2FwF6sAymw&t=146s
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Dec 6, 2022 20:02
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Greg12 posted:My bike runs like it's draining the carburetor bowl. Can't you just check the float height? I would question the assumption that it's running out of fuel when you seem to know very little about what's actually going on. Also no mention of what the bike is. Any attempt at systematic testing or was it just bike doesn't run right > sprint to the keyboard?
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Dec 6, 2022 20:27
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Ugh, I managed to chip the paint on my gas tank down to the metal. I think it's from the zipper on my jacket. Is this something I can fix with a touch up pen from Color Rite? They have the top and base colors for my bike. Anything else I'd need to do? And given the location, I was thinking I should cover it with a tank pad after I paint it. Is that worthwhile? 
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Dec 6, 2022 23:29
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Every paint pen application I’ve seen looks like poo poo. I think tank grips are a good idea in general. https://techspec-usa.com/products/gripster-tank-grips/honda/honda-cbr-300-r-2015-current-tank-grips-snake-skin.html https://techspec-usa.com/products/center-tank-protectors.html
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Dec 7, 2022 01:29
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Get one with a poorly drawn bikini lady
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Dec 7, 2022 01:53
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I got a colorite kit for my SV to patch almost that exact same tank ding as you have, from the PO. It looked like poo poo and I just put a tank protector over it. I guess it was good for keeping the paint from chipping further but it was a significantly different shade of blue than the factory Suzuki paint.
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Dec 7, 2022 02:35
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might as well touch it up with something to keep the spot from rusting, then throw a protector over it. the touch up spot won't ever look decent unless you get the paint color matched to the faded stuff on the tank, and even then it will never look good
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Dec 7, 2022 02:54
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My tank protector application on the triumph was off-center by a few millimeters, just enough for the brain to sense, it was unbearable.
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Dec 7, 2022 03:54
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If it’s any consolation, there has never been a tank protector that was installed perfectly straight
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Dec 7, 2022 14:10
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Anything I can do to repair some chips in my Suzuki's fairing? I thought about getting one of those colorite kits to fill in the paint at least, but sounds like it may not match well enough.
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Dec 7, 2022 14:41
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^^ I realized I have the same question too since my plastics came with some scratches that I've learned to ignore. How different is the process for repairing painted metal compared to colored plastic? I'm generally not too picky about cosmetics, but I do plan to sell this bike in the next couple months and want to get it looking better as cheaply as possible.
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Dec 7, 2022 15:45
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