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I thought rg was the same scale as hg
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Nov 24, 2022 05:41
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| # ? May 23, 2024 11:34 |
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yeah the sazabi is just huge. mobile suits got bigger and bigger in general until the plastic prices rose in the 90s
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Nov 24, 2022 05:47
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Stairmaster posted:I thought rg was the same scale as hg It is 1/144 scale. Sazabi is just freaking gigantic. I'm shuddering to imagine what fresh hell an RG Kshatriya would be like.
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Nov 24, 2022 05:49
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Arc Hammer posted:It is 1/144 scale. Sazabi is just freaking gigantic. Elyn made a bootleg 1/100 years ago and it was ridiculous. They're reportedly still available in China but I haven't seen one outside there for quite some time.
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Nov 24, 2022 05:51
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Arc Hammer posted:It is 1/144 scale. Sazabi is just freaking gigantic. PG Kshatriya, big enough to look like a toddler wearing a costume.
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Nov 24, 2022 07:42
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Honestly probably the most ridiculous thing about the RG Sazabi is that the funnels are seven pieces each. 
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Nov 24, 2022 08:16
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Nobody tell them about the fin funnels on the Nu/Hi-Nu
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Nov 24, 2022 11:49
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Puddin posted:Nobody tell them about the fin funnels on the Nu/Hi-Nu At least those are big. Until I saw the picture I was struggling to think of how you'd make those little nubs out of so many pieces.
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Nov 24, 2022 15:50
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Puddin posted:Nobody tell them about the fin funnels on the Nu/Hi-Nu Just wrapped up the hi Nu, agreed.
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Nov 24, 2022 17:47
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I don't have either of the RGs yet, but I'm gearing up to finally put together the Hi Nu ver.Ka I got last year.
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Nov 24, 2022 21:30
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I hate to admit it, but I think the nu/hi-nu is the best looking Gundam MS.
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Nov 25, 2022 00:13
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I'm probably going to build the HG211 Leo as my first gundam my brain is looking at the build options and saying "you should buy more of these, they're cheap and you could make a cool display thingy where Wing Zero is attacking a group of them each with different equipment" and the other half of my brain is saying "you ain't got the fuckin room for that stfu"
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Nov 25, 2022 00:24
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Count Thrashula posted:I hate to admit it, but I think the nu/hi-nu is the best looking Gundam MS. My wife started a MG Hi-Nu for last backlogust before getting too busy to finish it and it's been driving me nuts because it's my favorite suit. I keep threatening to finish it for her, but she also likes it too much to let me work on it.
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Nov 25, 2022 00:44
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm probably going to build the HG211 Leo as my first gundam Do it
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Nov 25, 2022 01:03
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm probably going to build the HG211 Leo as my first gundam It's a very nice kit, I was surprised at how good it looks for an HG. I used a melamine sponge to take off the shininess from the plastic and give a matt finish.
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Nov 25, 2022 04:21
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Damnit I already got the regular Super Pipimi
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Nov 25, 2022 04:23
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 wasn't too bad for 2h of assembly Right now my backlog is now: HG162 HG174 HG228 HG236 HG242 Not tonight, but probably tomorrow I'll see about doing 1-2 more, which ones should I do? also some thoughts as a miniature builder (I haven't built something like a model car or whatever since I was 10): - instructions were way better than Games Workshop, no question about it. Clear, accurate, shows proper positioning of the pieces from multiple angles, etc - almost no mold lines, however, what mold lines there are, I can't really seem to get with the back of my exacto, due to how flat the surfaces are instead of convex. This means I'm going to have to sand that entire surface down, I assume with some high grit and paint back over it, but that's outside of my scope right now. - Perhaps due to this being one of the cheapest models, the joints slide out somewhat easily, and of course I broke the part of the handle for the shield accidentally, nothing some tamiya cement can't fix though. I am tempted to get that stand you can get so it balances better and I could give it more dynamic aerial poses - I don't have any panel liner, but I have some contrast paints, I can probably use those (or make an oil wash, but since these are unprimed IDK how well that will go) - I was considering doing the gun, but I'm not sure what to do with that grey part yet on the tip, it's pretty ugly. Maybe paint it two tone? - the green part where it touches the feet keeps coming off if I adjust it, which is annoying GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Nov 25, 2022 |
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Nov 25, 2022 05:20
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
That ankle armor is notoriously loose
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Nov 25, 2022 07:43
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GreenBuckanneer posted:- Perhaps due to this being one of the cheapest models, the joints slide out somewhat easily, and of course I broke the part of the handle for the shield accidentally, nothing some tamiya cement can't fix though. I am tempted to get that stand you can get so it balances better and I could give it more dynamic aerial poses One thing that's unusual about the Leo is the joint structure. It's closer to a 30 minute mission kit than to most other Gundam kits.
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Nov 25, 2022 08:24
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Any aus goons looking for some kits, Gundam Express Australia has some ok discounts for today. I was wanting to get some of the Kyoukai Senki kits, and the discounts were pretty good!
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Nov 25, 2022 09:46
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I think MetroHobbies has a sale on too but I haven't looked properly
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Nov 25, 2022 09:55
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
I also used to build 40k and other minatures many years ago and got into building mecha kits around the end of last year after being absent from any model building for like a decade. I can't claim any authority but I have something that does bother me about your leo: It has a lot of visible nub-marks. Excuse me if this is all stuff you're aware off but since I had a bit of a learning curve with that particular aspect myself, I can maybe give you one or two useful hints. First is to be mindful of what type of nipper you use. Normal double bladed nippers are fine and dandy for minatures but using a single-bladed nipper for mecha kits is a world of difference. Normal nippers crush plastic much more than they actually cut and send force through the sprue into the connector and the part. A single-blade nipper cuts through the plastic very smoothly, without sending force into it. This is the first source for stress marks and avoiding it saves you a lot of clean up time. I use a cheap single-blade mr.hobby nipper to get the part out of the sprue, with a bit of plastic left at each connector point. Then I take a more expensive single-blade nipper from dspiae (medium price point but worth it imo), put it as close and flat as possible to the leftover plastic on the part and just snip it. If the nipper is decent enough this can leave you with very little cleaning to do or even none at all! You can also do this part with a good hobby knife but I prefer the nipper. Using a good single-blade has seriously been a world of difference for me when compared to using normal nippers. You've already mentioned sanding in your post and that's usually the clean up method to go by imo but if it's just a little whitening of the plastic, then you sometimes can get by through rubbing it with a fingernail. More seasoned builders might have a better view on this but here are my thoughts on sanding. You do start with a rougher grit and then jump up through a few steps of grit to smooth out the surface to the level you want it. If you're painting the kit then you don't need to go that high with the grit but if you want to keep it bare then you need some higher grits to polish. I tend to go 600g to 800g to 1000g to 1200g since I plan on painting my stuff eventually and do not need the best possible finish. For kicks I hosed around with 10k grit and at that point you get a straight up glossy surface. Sanding sticks/sponges/strips are actually not expensive and there are a lot of options from brands like dspiae, tamiya, bandai, infini and many more.
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Nov 25, 2022 11:36
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All the nippers I have are double bladed. Technically you're supposed to leave a nub of the sprue then take off the nub after removing it from the sprue, but I never do that, at least with Warhammer, since like I said you can use the back of your exacto and scrape if off, especially if you paint it after then you won't see it at that point. I do have sanding sticks but they're probably like 60 or 120 grit
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Nov 25, 2022 14:49
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GreenBuckanneer posted:All the nippers I have are double bladed. Technically you're supposed to leave a nub of the sprue then take off the nub after removing it from the sprue, but I never do that, at least with Warhammer, since like I said you can use the back of your exacto and scrape if off, especially if you paint it after then you won't see it at that point. I do have sanding sticks but they're probably like 60 or 120 grit A set of God Hand nippers are well worth the investment if you're getting into Gunpla. They're the kind of thing where you might not get why they're good second-hand, but the first time you cleanly slice through a sprue with one like butter your response will be "Oh okay, I get it now".
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Nov 25, 2022 15:00
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Neddy Seagoon posted:A set of God Hand nippers are well worth the investment if you're getting into Gunpla. They're the kind of thing where you might not get why they're good second-hand, but the first time you cleanly slice through a sprue with one like butter your response will be "Oh okay, I get it now". I'm pretty new to gunpla too, I picked up some Tamiya brand side cutters from Amazon but haven't got them yet. How do people feel about those? Guess I'll be buying some God Hands from Amazon today too 
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Nov 25, 2022 15:37
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Neddy Seagoon posted:A set of God Hand nippers are well worth the investment if you're getting into Gunpla. They're the kind of thing where you might not get why they're good second-hand, but the first time you cleanly slice through a sprue with one like butter your response will be "Oh okay, I get it now". GreenBuckanneer posted:All the nippers I have are double bladed. Technically you're supposed to leave a nub of the sprue then take off the nub after removing it from the sprue, but I never do that, at least with Warhammer, since like I said you can use the back of your exacto and scrape if off, especially if you paint it after then you won't see it at that point. I do have sanding sticks but they're probably like 60 or 120 grit For sanding I can recommend the sponge sets from dspiae. They have one for rough and one for fine grits. 30 sponges in each set (6 per grit with 3 different levels of thickness) in a nice little box for storage. Might be hard to get though depending on your location. I had to dig for a while to find a seller so that I didn't had to order from china and get crushed on customs fees. Tin Tim fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Nov 25, 2022 |
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Nov 25, 2022 15:48
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I'm in USA. I'm aware of the Godhands but they're $50 which is quite a bit more expensive than I was hoping for...
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Nov 25, 2022 16:42
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm in USA. I was skeptical for a while but if you really get into this hobby it's worth the price of a couple of HGs to have such a timesaver. You have to treat them gently and use other cutting tools for the heavy work (I favor the Micro Mark despruing tweezers) but the God Hands are worth the premium for a tool you can use for years. Midjack fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Nov 25, 2022 |
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Nov 25, 2022 16:54
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm in USA. One thing I've learned working on cars and bikes is that you can usually get a job done with the wrong tools, but with the right tools it'll take a fraction of the time and you won't hate yourself at the end of it. If you know you're going to be building a lot of gunpla, $50 to save yourself time and energy and potential fuckups sanding actually sounds like a good deal.
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Nov 25, 2022 16:58
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Godhands are slightly sharper than their competitors even when it comes to non-single bladed nippers. It's definitely not necessary for everyone to get a SPN-120 but it is a slightly smoother cut than the others.
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Nov 25, 2022 17:13
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So is there a thread recommended God hands alternative? Like maybe in the $30 range instead
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Nov 25, 2022 17:19
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I got the Valtcan Prime model nippers for around 30 and they're totally fine.
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Nov 25, 2022 17:52
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After my last SPN-120 broke I tried some Dspiae ST-A and they are pretty nice.
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Nov 25, 2022 18:13
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https://newtype.us/p/xATGUwz3qKoX1s0O7nDO/h/madworks-mh-03-single-blade-nipper This looks better, though it warning you not to cut with the tip because it can break is a bummer https://newtype.us/p/g9uPMb5OlbX0klfuJDys/h/softback-sanding-sponge-stick This has more granularity (hah) in sanding sticks (I only have jewelry files and soft Amazon thin sanding sticks which are all rough grit. And there's glass files? That makes sense.
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Nov 25, 2022 18:46
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I do want to get some glass files for durability purposes.
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Nov 25, 2022 18:54
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The Dspiae 3.0 nippers has been night and day from my $8 nippers from the OP, I save so much time now and with a sharp hobby knife there's minimal to zero nub marks. I'll use my old nippers to get the part off the runner and then the Dspiae for the secondary cut. Only time I feel I mess up the nub marks now is if it's too awkward to get the nippers in place and/or I waited too long to replace the hobby knife blade. I didn't want to spend so much money for a tool for plastic models but I'm glad I did, more fun and less frustration.
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Nov 25, 2022 19:24
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PlushCow posted:The Dspiae 3.0 nippers has been night and day from my $8 nippers from the OP, I save so much time now and with a sharp hobby knife there's minimal to zero nub marks. I'll use my old nippers to get the part off the runner and then the Dspiae for the secondary cut.  I can totally understand being dubious about spending on "just" a nipper because I had the same stance a few weeks ago. Then I looked up some more tutorials/tool reviews and started to understand the difference. Like seeing the smooth cut and hearing basically no noise is just so wildly different from any prior experience with regular nippers. Once you do it yourself you'll never go back imo. I was gonna recommend the MT106 from Mr.Hobby too but apparently I lucked out with getting it for 20 bucks from a local vendor because google is showing it for 40-50 bucks. It's not bad at all but the Dspiae 3.0 feels better and tends to go for the same price as far as I can tell. GreenBuckanneer posted:This looks better, though it warning you not to cut with the tip because it can break is a bummer GreenBuckanneer posted:https://newtype.us/p/g9uPMb5OlbX0klfuJDys/h/softback-sanding-sponge-stick Tin Tim fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Nov 25, 2022 |
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Nov 25, 2022 19:54
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
I would recommend this for a glass file: https://newtype.us/p/1l0FcpCdhpH8qfdMN5tL/h/raser-origin Bought mine when I first started and it makes nub cleanup a drat breeze. My problem is I hate consumables so I avoid actual sanding stuff as much as I can.
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Nov 25, 2022 20:26
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boz posted:I would recommend this for a glass file: Yeah that glass file is p good. On nippers. I usually use cheap nippers to cut parts from runners and then the godhand to clean the piece. Ive heard that its all not recommended to use godhand on clear plastic.
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Nov 25, 2022 21:26
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I really don't want to clip twice, but I guess I'll have to get a single blade and try it out
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Nov 25, 2022 22:33
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