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Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

I finished my first modern Bandai kit today, the green Portanova from 30 Minute Missions. I did not attach the mono eye and the face plate, since taking them off again for painting seems like a pain.





Overall I'm pretty impressed with the kit for its price (20 bucks in EU). The quality and detail of the parts is nice and the articulation is pretty good too. The only complaints I have are the seam line on the helmet and the weird joint between the hip & torso. The joint is not straight but upside down L-shaped and this can make the torso pop off if you move it a little too much. Still a nice kit and I'm starting to see where Bandai is getting its market lead from. I still got the most love for my Kotobukiya kits but I'll probably end up grabbing a few more pieces from the 30 MM line at some point.

What I'm mostly happy with is how clean the build was at the end. Really have to underscore that getting better nippers & sanding tools played a huge role here.



It's pretty much shelf-ready without paint to my eyes. Which was something I really wanted to achieve after struggling with nubs and stress marks on my first few kits. It's not all perfect though and I ended up with a few blemishes that I would like to highlight.



I'm not even sure what these darker spots should be called. The stress marks I'm used to are white/grey and this seems different. The surface is sanded pretty thoroughly from 600g up to 2500g but it didn't seem to achieve anything anymore. I mean it did remove material from the surface but it didn't seem like it affected the spots in any meaningful way and I started to get worried about sanding too much surface away. If anyone knows how to avoid or clean these dark blemishes then I'd be happy to read about it!

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PlushCow
Oct 19, 2005

The cow eats the grass

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I really don't want to clip twice, but I guess I'll have to get a single blade and try it out

You dont have to clip twice for every piece, but you'd want to for the armor pieces, since those are exposed, but like for joint and inner support pieces I often use my crap nipper to just cut the part straight off the runner because most of the time the nub marks dont matter on those, you'll never see them once the armor covers it except for certain parts like the sides of knees or elbows.

boz
Oct 16, 2005

PlushCow posted:

You dont have to clip twice for every piece, but you'd want to for the armor pieces, since those are exposed, but like for joint and inner support pieces I often use my crap nipper to just cut the part straight off the runner because most of the time the nub marks dont matter on those, you'll never see them once the armor covers it except for certain parts like the sides of knees or elbows.

It took me ages to come to terms with this. I use to clean inner frame pieces as well.

Just Dan Again
Dec 16, 2012

Adventure!
Coming to terms with the fact that there's no One Right Way to do Gunpla stuff has been a real journey. The Gunpla police aren't real and they can't come and take your nippers and files away. There is no backlog krampus who will carry you into the woods for having some old kits in your closet.

Sadly the FOMO ape is very real, his connection speed is much faster than yours, and he will always hit refresh just a bit before you do on P-Bandai.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

boz posted:

I would recommend this for a glass file:

https://newtype.us/p/1l0FcpCdhpH8qfdMN5tL/h/raser-origin

Bought mine when I first started and it makes nub cleanup a drat breeze. My problem is I hate consumables so I avoid actual sanding stuff as much as I can.

I love this thing compared to everything else I've used. The downside of softer sanding pads is they shave off a lot of material around the nub as well, this is much more targeted

boz
Oct 16, 2005

Chromatics posted:

I love this thing compared to everything else I've used. The downside of softer sanding pads is they shave off a lot of material around the nub as well, this is much more targeted

If I had to choose between my nice Godhands and my Raser, I would throw the Godhands out in a heartbeat.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

what is scribing for?

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

GreenBuckanneer posted:

what is scribing for?

It's just creating your own panel lines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sAJOJX-yA8

I have tried a thing where you very lightly scribe an existing panel line to make panel liner flow more easily and that worked decently well too, but you have to be careful.

WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Nov 26, 2022

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
It's a way of making cheaper kits look like higher grade kits with more detail

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

I wouldn't say it's limited to that, and I think it's pretty common on MGs with large pieces that are easier to scribe. It's just a way people push gunpla model closer to more interesting plastic modeling techniques

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Alright, I picked up a madworks MH-03, gunprimer Raser Origin, and some Infini softback sanding sponge sticks. but it'll take at least a week or two

boz
Oct 16, 2005

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Alright, I picked up a madworks MH-03, gunprimer Raser Origin, and some Infini softback sanding sponge sticks. but it'll take at least a week or two

ithasbegunmortalkombat.gif

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

boz posted:

ithasbegunmortalkombat.gif

I ran out of time to do anything but work on some Wing Gundam tonight in a few minutes.

I know I wish I could find the Magnac and Deathscythe in HGAC to match the rest of these I got but it's all out of stock.

I think my current only other purchases are going to be the MG or RG sets of Gundam Wing models, unless I can find the time to get caught up on the other series and find a model I resonate with

boz
Oct 16, 2005

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I ran out of time to do anything but work on some Wing Gundam tonight in a few minutes.

I know I wish I could find the Magnac and Deathscythe in HGAC to match the rest of these I got but it's all out of stock.

I think my current only other purchases are going to be the MG or RG sets of Gundam Wing models, unless I can find the time to get caught up on the other series and find a model I resonate with

Gunnzo has the HG deathscythe, only place I have seen it lately:

https://gunnzo.com/products/pre-order-hg-gundam-deathscythe-1-144?_pos=1&_sid=20dc56492&_ss=r

They are a good site and instead of stickers they send pins with orders.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

boz posted:

Gunnzo has the HG deathscythe, only place I have seen it lately:

https://gunnzo.com/products/pre-order-hg-gundam-deathscythe-1-144?_pos=1&_sid=20dc56492&_ss=r

They are a good site and instead of stickers they send pins with orders.

God damnit they also have 1/144 tallgeese in stock, rg and mg

edit: picked up deathscythe and rg tallgeese :negative:
It would have been another $100 easy to get the 1/144 versions of the other ones I want

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Nov 26, 2022

kirbysuperstar
Nov 11, 2012

Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.
Haven't bothered to pose it exactly but the Forestieri is cool



I like that blue a lot.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I think my current only other purchases are going to be the MG or RG sets of Gundam Wing models, unless I can find the time to get caught up on the other series and find a model I resonate with

Yeah, that's exactly how it starts. Gooble gobble gooble gobble :v:

BisbyWorl
Jan 12, 2019

Knowledge is pain plus observation.


there was a black friday sale and I snagged an MG Hi Nu and HG Char Z'Gok

i think i have a problem

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



HGAC Wing Gundam (2.5 hours?)

Next up, HGAC Wing Gundam Zero

notes:

Stickers suck rear end, wtf.
this model really needs some paint vs the previous one (which I'll eventually paint)

also:

with warhams, I keep the sprues in case I need them for something (which I should probably also throw out). I'm throwing the boxes and empty sprues out. It feels a lot better (also, while it's nice they're in a bag inside the box, it kind of bugs me w/r/t the extra plastic waste)

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Nov 26, 2022

TaurusOxford
Feb 10, 2009

Dad of the Year 2021
A panel lining marker makes a world of difference for model kits. I would heavily recommend getting one for that Wing Gundam.

MoukoKHZ
Sep 23, 2010

kirbysuperstar posted:

Haven't bothered to pose it exactly but the Forestieri is cool



I like that blue a lot.

It's *Periwinkle*.

Waffleman_
Jan 20, 2011


I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna!!!

Panel lining is also like the simplest quote unquote "advanced" technique you can pick up to enhance your models

PlushCow
Oct 19, 2005

The cow eats the grass

Tin Tim posted:

It's pretty much shelf-ready without paint to my eyes. Which was something I really wanted to achieve after struggling with nubs and stress marks on my first few kits. It's not all perfect though and I ended up with a few blemishes that I would like to highlight.



I'm not even sure what these darker spots should be called. The stress marks I'm used to are white/grey and this seems different. The surface is sanded pretty thoroughly from 600g up to 2500g but it didn't seem to achieve anything anymore. I mean it did remove material from the surface but it didn't seem like it affected the spots in any meaningful way and I started to get worried about sanding too much surface away. If anyone knows how to avoid or clean these dark blemishes then I'd be happy to read about it!
The first one looks fine and I think sometimes going to be some blemishes no matter how good the tools you use, some plastic colors are more prone to showing stress marks and blemishes, and painting (sadly not for me! yet....) is probably the only way to have perfect looking gunpla.

Also for me, I try to keep in mind that flaws are magnified when you're building a kit; how's it going to look when you put it on your shelf? You'll never notice the first picture mark, and the second that looks like a foot, you'd have to be close, and well just have those marks facing away and you wont see those either! Lost control of the hobby knife now there's a nice gouge?? Well that's battle damage now
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsO56kWwTc&t=13s

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

BisbyWorl posted:

there was a black friday sale and I snagged an MG Hi Nu and HG Char Z'Gok

i think i have a problem

Yeah, your problem is not having enough kits! I also have that problem.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

TaurusOxford posted:

A panel lining marker makes a world of difference for model kits. I would heavily recommend getting one for that Wing Gundam.

It'll have to be another day because they're $20 a pack, and knowing me I'd want some variation like, multiple colors

I'd also be interested in adding weathering afterwards

Waffleman_
Jan 20, 2011


I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna!!!

You can start with a single black pour marker, they're like 3 or 4 bucks.

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

PlushCow posted:

The first one looks fine and I think sometimes going to be some blemishes no matter how good the tools you use, some plastic colors are more prone to showing stress marks and blemishes, and painting (sadly not for me! yet....) is probably the only way to have perfect looking gunpla.

Also for me, I try to keep in mind that flaws are magnified when you're building a kit; how's it going to look when you put it on your shelf? You'll never notice the first picture mark, and the second that looks like a foot, you'd have to be close, and well just have those marks facing away and you wont see those either! Lost control of the hobby knife now there's a nice gouge?? Well that's battle damage now
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsO56kWwTc&t=13s
You're not wrong but perfectionism is a hard habit to shake :v:

I mentioned these spots in a passing conversation with my dad who used to do scale models back in the day and he figured that it's probably related to the injection molding process instead of what I was doing with the parts. A little research into the topic seems to confirm it:



Makes sense to me since the marks are on the same pieces in the exact same spots (both sides of the feet, underside of the groin) and no other parts had spots like that despite being the same colors.

MechaX
Nov 19, 2011

"Let's be positive! Let's start a fire!"

GreenBuckanneer posted:

It'll have to be another day because they're $20 a pack, and knowing me I'd want some variation like, multiple colors

I'd also be interested in adding weathering afterwards

I'm about a year and a half in this hobby and I've only just started dabbling in other colors

Honestly, having a black, gray, and brown (brown is for panel lining on yellow parts) Gundam markers ($3-6 a piece depending on where you get it, and even then, the brown one is much more optional) were more than enough to get me through a vast majority of my kits.

Zedd
Jul 6, 2009

I mean, who would have noticed another madman around here?



GreenBuckanneer posted:

It'll have to be another day because they're $20 a pack, and knowing me I'd want some variation like, multiple colors

I'd also be interested in adding weathering afterwards

Waffleman_ posted:

You can start with a single black pour marker, they're like 3 or 4 bucks.
You can just use a generic hobby store paint pencil and Q-tips, or even a charcoal pencil for some things.

The Bandai ones are nice but not the only options; I have a very nice metallic green one from the Hobby store that I use for 00 Kits.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Assume every hobby accessory is an overpriced repackage of an art or beauty product until proven otherwise.

Rabbi Tupac
Jan 1, 2010

Heroes of the Storm
Goon Tournament Champion
You can even use micron pens if you want really bold lines.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I just realized the nipper I bought from greenstuffworld which has yet to arrive, is also single bladed. :negative:

Oh well I guess I'll have two options.

What do you guys use for tool racks? I just usually throw mine in a drawer on my desk as I don't have a lot of space, but the godhand rack is a bit expensive for what it is.

boz
Oct 16, 2005

GreenBuckanneer posted:


What do you guys use for tool racks? I just usually throw mine in a drawer on my desk as I don't have a lot of space, but the godhand rack is a bit expensive for what it is.

The craft desk I have has a couple pencil/random stuff holders. That's where I keep my main panel lining stuff, my hard bristle brush to clean my Raser, and several pairs of nippers that I only use on heavy stuff. Also qtips.

Speaking of, if you have a Harbor Freight, I would grab this brush: https://www.harborfreight.com/detail-brush-set-6-piece-69526.html

I brush my Raser across the nylon one every now and then when cleaning up nubs and it keeps it fresh. Brush set is like 3 dollars.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



boz posted:


Speaking of, if you have a Harbor Freight, I would grab this brush: https://www.harborfreight.com/detail-brush-set-6-piece-69526.html

I brush my Raser across the nylon one every now and then when cleaning up nubs and it keeps it fresh. Brush set is like 3 dollars.

I just use an old toothbrush.

kirbysuperstar
Nov 11, 2012

Let the fools who stand before us be destroyed by the power you and I possess.

GreenBuckanneer posted:



What do you guys use for tool racks? I just usually throw mine in a drawer on my desk as I don't have a lot of space, but the godhand rack is a bit expensive for what it is.

My friend got me a grandpa Gundam mug that is absolutely abysmal to drink out of but makes a good holder for little tools and pens

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

Midjack posted:

I just use an old toothbrush.
Does dry or wet cleaning make a real difference? I've cleaned my sanding tools with a toothbrush after every build session and it felt like adding a drop of water to the brush had more effect but I could just be imagining it.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Tin Tim posted:

Does dry or wet cleaning make a real difference? I've cleaned my sanding tools with a toothbrush after every build session and it felt like adding a drop of water to the brush had more effect but I could just be imagining it.

I think it helps.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Wing Gundam Zero

This set is slightly newer than Wing Gundam before but I think this one is slightly more annoying, but not terribly so. I like how the build example doesn't shave down the nubs on the....crown thing, but the box art doesn't have them, so I'll wait till I get my sanding kit to go back and fix those since I tried on WG and it took forever to just to two with my sanding sticks.

Next up is Sandrock, which is from 2019, which hopefully has slightly newer instructions (these older ones don't have dual languages)

Gripweed
Nov 8, 2018

Remember that Idolmaster spinoff mecha anime?

https://twitter.com/hobby_magazine/status/1596359640216145920?s=20&t=mGJdckrrrbbFrnkcE1rhMw

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Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



GreenBuckanneer posted:



Wing Gundam Zero

This set is slightly newer than Wing Gundam before but I think this one is slightly more annoying, but not terribly so. I like how the build example doesn't shave down the nubs on the....crown thing, but the box art doesn't have them, so I'll wait till I get my sanding kit to go back and fix those since I tried on WG and it took forever to just to two with my sanding sticks.

Next up is Sandrock, which is from 2019, which hopefully has slightly newer instructions (these older ones don't have dual languages)

V-fin nubs are always annoying. You can take them down with some careful side cutter and blade work, or just sand them down.

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