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Zero VGS posted:(I even had the foresight to do 50/50 male/female vocalists) Fuckin' goons man, never disappoint.
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Nov 16, 2022 02:37
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Zero VGS posted:Oddly the women hated it and had theirs removed right away Did they give a reason? Do they like hearing each other poop, pee, and wetfart more than they like classic rock?
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Nov 16, 2022 03:57
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SkunkDuster posted:Did they give a reason? Do they like hearing each other poop, pee, and wetfart more than they like classic rock? I diplomatically tried to ask the same question and didn’t really understand the replies 
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Nov 16, 2022 05:09
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Carry On Wayward Son blasting out of the ladies room— what could go wrong? Coming up next, Baracuda. Got to get the ratio right.
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Nov 16, 2022 10:20
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Hey folks! Looking for general advice, traps, pitfalls, etc. I'm going to replace the drywall, floor baseboard of that leak I posted a while back. I haven't done this level of stuff, but like Motronic said - it's time to know how to do this. It is in a closet wall so I'm ok if it's not visually perfect. Here's the pic of current state of things:  There are three cutouts the plumbers used to find the leak. The middle is the actual leak. My thoughts are to make a big single cutout that covers everything. It's about 3.5 ft square (ish). (Figure 1) I'm also going to remove the back and side pieces of baseboard that are molded. I'm guessing it's easier to remove the entire thing than try to cut and match. Especially for a newbie. (Figure 2) There is a small piece of drywall on the right side that is showing some staining coming through. Would it be wise to just replace this drywall or is there a way for me to look/test and see if it just needs to be repainted? (Figure 3) I've been watching a fair bit of drywall repair on youtube to get a general gist of how to do things. It's also Black Friday sales at Lowes/Home Depot so I'm up for using this as an excuse to get a new tool or two. At the moment I don't have anything to cut the drywall (power tool wise I mean). I'm thinking to pull up the carpet and tack strips and then replace with some cheap discount flooring from Lowes since it's a plumbing wall. Might make it easier to detect leaks in the future. My biggest concern is accidentally cutting a pipe in the wall of course.
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Nov 19, 2022 17:35
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If you're worried about cutting pipes or wiring, your best bet is just to avoid using power tools. That's a relatively small repair, and you really don't need to use anything fancy to make those cuts. I'd probably bust a bunch of holes in the wall in the section you plan to replace anyway and only worry about cutting cleanly around the edges. That also gives you a chance to see what's back there without any risk of cutting or damaging anything.
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Nov 19, 2022 21:15
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Paradoxish posted:If you're worried about cutting pipes or wiring, your best bet is just to avoid using power tools. That's a relatively small repair, and you really don't need to use anything fancy to make those cuts. I'd probably bust a bunch of holes in the wall in the section you plan to replace anyway and only worry about cutting cleanly around the edges. That also gives you a chance to see what's back there without any risk of cutting or damaging anything. Yeah I had that thought as well and just got a little jab saw to use (slowly) where I need it.
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Nov 19, 2022 21:50
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You don't need a power tool for cutting squares of drywall. Just score with a sharp utility knife and snap. You do want a rotozip for cutting outlet holes. Those are cheap and handy. It doesn't look like there are any in the area you're working on so maybe skip it. Another tool you should get is a drywall rasp. It's like a rough planer for drywall. It's great for adjusting the edges of patches so you can fit them in place. If the leak is fixed then I'd check the condition of the piece on the right before replacing it. Is it solid or mushy? if it's mushy or crumbly then for sure replace it. If it's solid then hit it with stain blocking primer (zinsser 123 is best, kilz is fine in my experience) before painting. Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Nov 19, 2022 |
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Nov 19, 2022 22:56
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Vim Fuego posted:You don't need a power tool for cutting squares of drywall. Just score with a sharp utility knife and snap. You do want a rotozip for cutting outlet holes. Those are cheap and handy. It doesn't look like there are any in the area you're working on so maybe skip it. Awesome thanks! The piece on the right is nice and solid (frankly all of it is, the leak dripped straight down to right below the baseboard so really the baseboard and carpet are all that got wet before we caught it). As for cutting the drywall, I was just talking about cutting the existing pieces on the wall (I was going to cut one big hole out to do a single patch rather than 3 individuals). I'm just going to use the jab saw though. I did see the score and snap method on youtube though for pieces on the truck.
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Nov 19, 2022 23:28
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Oh yeah, jab saw will work for that. At least for the areas between the studs. You're going to want the vertical edges of your patch to run down the center of a stud so that the edge of the drywall has wood behind it. For that I use a utility knife with a fresh blade, just keep cutting deeper until you hit the wood. Then peel/pry off the drywall by hand or with a hammer or pry bar.
Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Nov 19, 2022 |
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Nov 19, 2022 23:37
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I would suggest zipping out your patch perimeter from stud to stud using a boxcutter, being careful to trim the drywall so that half of the outward face of the studs are exposed - easiest way is to be sure your cut is inside the studs until you are 100% sure where they are. Once you make your cuts, you can grab the drywall at the plumber’s cuts & yank it out, though it would probably be better if you knocked it inwards with your open palm, fist or a hammer (in that order) because unless you are absolutely sure you cut through the face-paper on the inside as well as the outside, it can break above your cut if you yank it out. Drywall is pretty fragile stuff. Saws or machine cuts are for precision as needed.
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Nov 20, 2022 03:09
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I have a detached garage in the backyard that I hope to slowly improve the shape of over the time we live here, in part because its current location suggests that it would probably be impossible to demolish and rebuild because of how close it is to the probable property line. I was poking around the internet about this stuff kind of aimlessly this afternoon, and learned that I might be doing something stupid without knowing it. I've got some stuff stuck on top of the rafter ties (I think that's what these are), is this a bad idea? See here: The ties are joined to rafters where they meet at the top plate. No idea if this is relevant, but they appear to be spaced 4 feet on center, and also 4 feet from the walls. As I recall, the ties have always sagged a little bit, and I think the camera angle plus that long piece of clapboard siding is enhancing the degree to which they look like they are sagging. However, I don't want to make an already rickety garage worse so I'll take that stuff down and find another spot for it if having them up there is a bad idea.
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Nov 20, 2022 22:44
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BonoMan posted:Hey folks! Looking for general advice, traps, pitfalls, etc. Is there a reason you're replacing the drywall at all? It looks fine from that photo, and the plumbers appear to have done nice cuts and left you the matching pieces. If it were me, I'd grab a couple packs of these and just reattach the pieces & spackle/tape all the joints.
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Nov 21, 2022 16:37
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devicenull posted:Is there a reason you're replacing the drywall at all? It looks fine from that photo, and the plumbers appear to have done nice cuts and left you the matching pieces. The bottom (near and behind the baseboard) got pretty soaked and had some mold growth. And I was just gonna basically use it as a whole practice exercise. But it might make more sense to just fix the center box (where the leak was and was the moldiest) and then just patch the other two holes - so thanks for that! But I think the bottom behind the baseboard has to be replaced too.
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Nov 21, 2022 16:42
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Was rehanging the old doorbell (that has a manufacture date of 1981 on the inside) after painting and had no idea these things were programmable.
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Nov 26, 2022 18:59
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a lot of those tunes slap but i'm gonna have to vote for beethoven's 5th
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Nov 26, 2022 23:17
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i gotta hear the doorbell version of "mazel tov" imagine setting it to dixie or the baseball song 
Lazy_Liberal fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Nov 27, 2022 |
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Nov 26, 2022 23:30
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precious
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A while back we got a fireproof safe for documents and whatnot, and we trusted that the big honkin desiccant pack it came with would be good enough. It was not, and now our passports are moldy. Will something like Damp-Rid or one of those rechargeable desiccant packs work well enough, or will I actually have to make sure to keep it open for an hour once a week or whatever? Do I just have a lovely safe?
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Nov 27, 2022 00:31
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more falafel please posted:A while back we got a fireproof safe for documents and whatnot, and we trusted that the big honkin desiccant pack it came with would be good enough. It was not, and now our passports are moldy. Do you live in an insanely humid area?
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Nov 27, 2022 00:44
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BigFactory posted:Do you live in an insanely humid area? Chicago, so it gets pretty humid in the summer, but not as bad as other places. I have been putting the safe on an exterior wall, so I guess it could be getting more humidity in general.
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Nov 27, 2022 00:55
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Lazy_Liberal posted:i gotta hear the doorbell version of "mazel tov" Seriously, record and post all of those.
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Nov 27, 2022 02:18
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Cyrano4747 posted:Seriously, record and post all of those. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtzzJvN62c0
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Nov 27, 2022 05:02
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BAE OF PIGS posted:Was rehanging the old doorbell (that has a manufacture date of 1981 on the inside) after painting and had no idea these things were programmable. Nice avatar
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Nov 27, 2022 07:04
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Changing my vote to Dixie
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Nov 27, 2022 07:10
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In this chapter of the previous owner diaries... I am updating all the exterior lights on our home. I did the two front lights without issue. The back one was a huge plastic rectangular box with such a dim light you could barely see it when it was on. It looks like something that should've been on a commercial building. Regardless when I removed it to paint the house this summer, I noticed two separate sources of Romex, both live. One coming from a proper electrical box and the other just out of the wall.  The box had incoming and outgoing wires. When I pulled on the bottom wires, I could see the wires in the box get pulled down as well. I disconnected everything and pulled the lower wires out of the wall completely and connected everything to the box. I'll have to plug and wood fill the hole and paint over it. At some point but I have no extra exterior paint.
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Nov 27, 2022 10:15
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Lazy_Liberal posted:i gotta hear the doorbell version of "mazel tov" turns out the "mazel tov" doorbell chime was hevenu shalom aleichem how fun! you can alternate between that, dixie, and battle hymn of the republic to keep everyone guessing
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Nov 27, 2022 11:12
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BAE OF PIGS posted:Was rehanging the old doorbell (that has a manufacture date of 1981 on the inside) after painting and had no idea these things were programmable.
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Nov 27, 2022 12:45
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My closet's hanging shelf/rod thing is bowing down towards the center. It is about 5.5' long with no support at the edges closest to me. Not sure if it's an issue and I reinforced the sides and back with angle brackets previously. What is the cheapest and easiest solution if I'm scared that it will collapse? Would a tension shower rod be able to hold some of that weight if I place it in the center edge (the edge closest to me)?
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Nov 27, 2022 18:15
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When you say back supports, you mean center supports made for the purpose that run from the back of the closet to support the middle of the bar? What's the bar made of?
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Nov 27, 2022 18:23
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i like nice words
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Picture, please. Why can't you add a middle bracket?
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Nov 27, 2022 19:00
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The supports are: two main ones that attach the the sides of the wall, and a bunch of smaller brackets attached to the wall that run around the back of the rod/shelf. Nothing that is supported via the floor like a center rod, which is what I'm asking about. Everything is made of flimsy-ish metal, though it has held everything for like 15 years now.
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Nov 27, 2022 19:01
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Has it been bowing for 15 years? How sad are you going to be if it let's go? Also picture please.
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Nov 27, 2022 19:04
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Baby Proof posted:Picture, please. Why can't you add a middle bracket? There is a middle bracket but it doesn't run the depth of the shelf. If it did, it would be very long and would still probably bow along with the shelf. H110Hawk posted:Has it been bowing for 15 years? How sad are you going to be if it let's go? Probably bowing for a long time, but I'm only really thinking about it now. I would be pretty sad! Here are some pictures:    So could I use a tension/shower rod vertically? small butter fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Nov 27, 2022 |
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Nov 27, 2022 19:58
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Assuming those side brackets are screwed into a stud, It's probably fine. However, I have had the bottoms of those plastic bits blow out. After a while they get old and brittle.
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Nov 27, 2022 20:23
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Grab a pack of these and put one up in the middle. If putting it below it interferes with your clothes, you can also flip it and have it support it from above. I suggest drilling it into a stud. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-12-in-x-1-in-White-Shelving-Support-Bracket-2-Pack-76606/100143993 You could also install a closet rod on the shelf which would distribute the weight to the sides across the thicker bar, so the weight would be more supported by the end shelf brackets https://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-SuperSlide-48-in-W-x-12-in-D-Wire-Fixed-Mount-Shelf-Kit-with-Closet-Rod-5631/100172468 SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Nov 27, 2022 |
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Nov 27, 2022 20:25
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The above advice is what I would suggest as well. Get some support stuff and get it into studs. If it's been bowed forever it's probably going to be fine for a long time. If this is new, then your clothes are getting closer to their new home. Either way it doesn't look catastrophic if it fails, other than it perhaps scaring the crap out of you at 2am.
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Nov 27, 2022 22:56
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Thanks. Wanted to avoid dealing with these metal studs again. So no shower curtain tension rod mounted vertically?
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Nov 28, 2022 00:31
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small butter posted:Thanks. Wanted to avoid dealing with these metal studs again. Oh god metal studs. Yes that will also provide support. As would a wooden dowel with a little rubber foot on it.
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Nov 28, 2022 01:32
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Slugworth posted:Made a similar discovery while painting, only ours also has halloween themed rings, so now my year round doorbell sound is a woman screaming. 
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Nov 28, 2022 14:25
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H110Hawk posted:Oh god metal studs. Yes that will also provide support. As would a wooden dowel with a little rubber foot on it. I would go the wooden dowel route myself. Shower rods aren't really designed to handle much of a load, especially lengthwise in compression. Metal studs suck.
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Nov 28, 2022 19:37
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