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IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Lumpy posted:

When the parts that are supposed to fail fail, do they fall off and you have to fish bits out of the vat? Seems cool though.

I didn't fish anything out, they have a little roof. Not sure exactly how that works now that I think about it, but no cleanup seemed needed.

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I didn't fish anything out, they have a little roof. Not sure exactly how that works now that I think about it, but no cleanup seemed needed.

Awesome. I just finished building a little enclosure for my printer and got a seed starter heater w/ a thermostat to go inside so I can actually print things now that its insanely cold.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m





been playing with making some dungeon tiles that feel like old D&D maps, its basically programmer art right now but i kinda like em so far!

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

armorer posted:

The site calls them "color printed", and one of the photos on the landing page makes it look like they're done before the laser cutting happens. It could be a decal?

I wonder if it's UV printed. That would be pretty cool. Same process used to print on phone cases, etc.

Could also be heat transfer decal, I've seen laser cut puzzles that used that method.

Gort
Aug 18, 2003

Good day what ho cup of tea

queeb posted:



been playing with making some dungeon tiles that feel like old D&D maps, its basically programmer art right now but i kinda like em so far!

I love this stuff - what machine are you using?

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Glowforge basic, a Wacom tablet and illustrator haha. Super fast too, it can cut like 2 tiles a minute

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



double post but im kinda excited about this, i painted one with a quick like 15 second paintjob and they actually look kinda dope?!



i feel like im on to something here, if i cut a set of like, 30 tiles, painted them all up like that or similar, packed them as an unpainted set but advertised them with a paintjob as a "heres what it could be" kinda thing, i feel like im ight be able to sell a bunch, especially cheap since its probably like $4 in materials to cut 30 tiles.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

queeb posted:

double post but im kinda excited about this, i painted one with a quick like 15 second paintjob and they actually look kinda dope?!



i feel like im on to something here, if i cut a set of like, 30 tiles, painted them all up like that or similar, packed them as an unpainted set but advertised them with a paintjob as a "heres what it could be" kinda thing, i feel like im ight be able to sell a bunch, especially cheap since its probably like $4 in materials to cut 30 tiles.

Spend an extra minute putting on some texture with a sponge to make it even more "omg these will be sooooo coooooool" Not that they aren't already so cool that is.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Lumpy posted:

Spend an extra minute putting on some texture with a sponge to make it even more "omg these will be sooooo coooooool" Not that they aren't already so cool that is.



good call, drat i excited about these

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

queeb posted:

double post but im kinda excited about this, i painted one with a quick like 15 second paintjob and they actually look kinda dope?!



i feel like im on to something here, if i cut a set of like, 30 tiles, painted them all up like that or similar, packed them as an unpainted set but advertised them with a paintjob as a "heres what it could be" kinda thing, i feel like im ight be able to sell a bunch, especially cheap since its probably like $4 in materials to cut 30 tiles.

Neat! I've done tons of laser cutting and engraving but I was never much for painting, so stuff like this looks amazing to me.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



this is my first foray into it and im way more impressed/excited than i expected to be haha. I'm excited at the prospect of selling it too, i feel like there's a million dungeon tiles and people who sell them out there but just a cheap, fast, but cool looking flat tile you can fit in a padded envelope and lay out a classic dungeon with is a much more interesting market to approach. we'll see anyways, gonna paint up a run of these and see what they look like all together!

edit: I'm one of them too, i've made a few grand selling 3d printed dragonlock tiles but, when you think printing 30 tiles takes a day or two, and you sell them for ~100 bucks, or you cut 30 of these tiles which takes 15-20 mins and sell them for $30, im sure there's some DM's and stuff out there that just want a quick solution to toss down to map something out.

queeb fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Nov 21, 2022

Gort
Aug 18, 2003

Good day what ho cup of tea

queeb posted:

Glowforge basic, a Wacom tablet and illustrator haha. Super fast too, it can cut like 2 tiles a minute

Ach, four grand's a bit rich for my blood. Glad it does good work though

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



yeah i bought it with etsy money from selling D&D stuff, i figure it'll pay itself off if i hit something that sells well.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


If you can figure out something like that in cobblestone I can't say I wouldn't throw down some cash for it. 15mm cobblestones roads are way too expensive so I've been using gray felt, so can't be the only one.

Maybe I should just get a laser cutter, lol.

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

queeb posted:

yeah i bought it with etsy money from selling D&D stuff, i figure it'll pay itself off if i hit something that sells well.



Market for warhammer quest 95 tiles too

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Guest2553 posted:

If you can figure out something like that in cobblestone I can't say I wouldn't throw down some cash for it. 15mm cobblestones roads are way too expensive so I've been using gray felt, so can't be the only one.

Maybe I should just get a laser cutter, lol.

Yo gimme some specs and I'll whip something up for you, I'm on a creative journey right now and that sounds fun.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

So, let's say hypothetically someone in this thread has started producing their own line of fantasy themed miniatures that are inspired by something that rhymes with 'held her bowls' and 'borrow skinned', but it perfectly usable for other games. And let's say hypothetically that this goon is putting the STLs on MMF, and soon their own web store.

Would it be kosher for this goon to mention and link it here on occasion? It's not really an SA mart thing, but then again, I also... er I mean this imaginary person also doesn't want to be an annoying git either. Hypothetically.

Asking for a friend.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
That sounds alright to me, but since we're process people here you can easily make it feel like less of an ad by adding a little bit about the back end, or something that was easier/harder/feels risky about the whole thing, etc.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m





more realistic or more exaggerated style? top v bottom.

im leaning more exaggerated and cartooney just for ease on the eyes over a table of like 40 tiles or something.

queeb fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Nov 22, 2022

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


queeb posted:

Yo gimme some specs and I'll whip something up for you, I'm on a creative journey right now and that sounds fun.

I'll try and throw some thought at it over the weekend. I have no experience designing something like this and would just be making it up, if rough measurements and a vague description are enough to go by!

Also would lean towards exaggerated features for the same reasons, it wouldn't really look out of place in anything on the realistic-to-cartoony spectrum imo.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

queeb posted:



more realistic or more exaggerated style? top v bottom.

im leaning more exaggerated and cartooney just for ease on the eyes over a table of like 40 tiles or something.

I like the bottom one, but they are both great.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





queeb posted:



more realistic or more exaggerated style? top v bottom.

im leaning more exaggerated and cartooney just for ease on the eyes over a table of like 40 tiles or something.

I just ordered a glowforge myself. Are the bespoke materials just nice to haves or are they pretty much required. Got a 500 dollar gift certificate with the glowforge so will get to try out a bunch of stuff. If I want to make little wooden decorations and door rounds I imagine that has to be easiest and most common use case?

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I just ordered a glowforge myself. Are the bespoke materials just nice to haves or are they pretty much required. Got a 500 dollar gift certificate with the glowforge so will get to try out a bunch of stuff. If I want to make little wooden decorations and door rounds I imagine that has to be easiest and most common use case?

It doesn't really matter. It's mostly convenient, I like their draftboard as a good price for something useful, that is pre-masked.

In theory the big benefit is it will save you time on your settings. The printer scans the QR code on their proofgrade materials, and then will have laser speed & strength settings pre-configured for cutting, scoring, engraving, etc.

The gotcha is their proofgrade settings are a lie and are wrong, so I end up having to modify them, anyways.

Their software might seem like it sucks... but unfortunately it was way better than the other software we've used laser cutting (back in like 2013 era when we were laser cutting with pre-glowforge cutters) and was a selling point for us, even though we hate that it requires internet and is locked down.

They have some lovely upsell features in their software, but we didn't really need it.

I recommend that, for each SVG you upload to your Glowforge, keep a copy somewhere handy, don't lose it. Also make a spreadsheet of settings, materials, and material thickness with the results, as well as what you used for specific SVG files you cut on the Glowforge. This is something the Glowforge software doesn't help manage for you very well, especially across SVG files, like slicing software does for 3D printers.

One of the other places I like to get laser cut materials from is Inventables https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials, but I do mostly just buy direct from Glowforge.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
I don't know what I'd do without Lightburn, that sucks that Glowforge locks you in.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

BlackIronHeart posted:

I don't know what I'd do without Lightburn, that sucks that Glowforge locks you in.

Looking at the history of it, Lightburn looks great but fairly new, 2017? It wasn't something we had heard of when we got our Glowforge in 2018. Looking at the history, the guy who made Lightburn did because he was pissed about the Glowforge, lol

It's definitely something that would influence our next laser cutting purchase, whenever that will be.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



IncredibleIgloo posted:

I just ordered a glowforge myself. Are the bespoke materials just nice to haves or are they pretty much required. Got a 500 dollar gift certificate with the glowforge so will get to try out a bunch of stuff. If I want to make little wooden decorations and door rounds I imagine that has to be easiest and most common use case?

I use MDF from a lumber yard near me that is crazy nice, and cheap. It's like 1.80 Canadian per sheet that fits the glowforge. Or 19.95 basically for a 4x8' sheet and they charge a buck a cut so I just pay them to stack 3 or 4 sheets and cut em all at once to 20x12" squares. it's 1/8" so it cuts super fast on the glowforge. I dont mind a bit of cooking of the surface of the material because i find it gives it some color/charm, feels old map style kinda. You can mask it yourself if you want.



dialling in on the art style i want to do for the first little set of tiles, i really like it now. messing with stair ideas now too.

I think eventually if i can sell these I may look into making them more 3d, like doing walls and stuff but I think there's charm in sticking to a strictly flat surface except for door tokens and stuff.

queeb fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Nov 23, 2022

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

MDF is great to laser cut, just double check what it's made out of. Some MDF has formaldehyde in it or other harmful binders that can fill your workshop with poisonous gas when laser cut.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Yeah i believe they specifically carry this brand at the lumber mill I go to because its safe to laser cut, and cuts really quality. I'll double check next time im in there for the brand.







Guest2553 posted:

I'll try and throw some thought at it over the weekend. I have no experience designing something like this and would just be making it up, if rough measurements and a vague description are enough to go by!

Also would lean towards exaggerated features for the same reasons, it wouldn't really look out of place in anything on the realistic-to-cartoony spectrum imo.

Hell yeah, rough measurements and vague descriptions is totally fine.

queeb fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Nov 23, 2022

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

w00tmonger posted:

Badger Merc and a dwarf exosuit. Productive afternoon







In typical photo fashion the cockpit looks a lot smoother irl,any tips for next time? Do I just need to learn how to glaze?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




In March, I bought an Elegoo Saturn. A million calibration tests and I could not get a print to really come out.
I go back and forth with Elegoo support for a while, they agree to send me a new screen.
I get the screen in, I successfully print a rook, my next print fails, I abandon it.

Fast forward to October. Cosplay and Christmas seasons are upon us, and it'd be nice to use my big resin printer. Let's figure this fucker out.

I eventually, though an arduous process, decide that 3.4s exposure is ideal for my machine, with Elegoo transparent red. I eventually get two successful prints, and like $30 of failures (failures likely mostly on me not supporting the model enough)

Today. I clean out the vat. It is time for that sweet Siraya Tech Fast Neon Green.
Recommended profiles for mono screens say ~2.2s exposure.
I just ran the Cones of Calibration and had 0 top cones at 4s exposure.

I know that resin isn't exactly a science, and there's going to be variations depending on the individual run of the screen on your printer, the individual batch of resin, the temperature in your room, etc etc

But when I'm running calibration tests at over double what the recommended exposure is, surely it is me who is doing something absurd and stupid, right?

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


What's the temperature in the room with the printer?
I've found that below 70f/20c resin really doesn't want to work.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Sockser posted:

In March, I bought an Elegoo Saturn. A million calibration tests and I could not get a print to really come out.
I go back and forth with Elegoo support for a while, they agree to send me a new screen.
I get the screen in, I successfully print a rook, my next print fails, I abandon it.

Fast forward to October. Cosplay and Christmas seasons are upon us, and it'd be nice to use my big resin printer. Let's figure this fucker out.

I eventually, though an arduous process, decide that 3.4s exposure is ideal for my machine, with Elegoo transparent red. I eventually get two successful prints, and like $30 of failures (failures likely mostly on me not supporting the model enough)

Today. I clean out the vat. It is time for that sweet Siraya Tech Fast Neon Green.
Recommended profiles for mono screens say ~2.2s exposure.
I just ran the Cones of Calibration and had 0 top cones at 4s exposure.

I know that resin isn't exactly a science, and there's going to be variations depending on the individual run of the screen on your printer, the individual batch of resin, the temperature in your room, etc etc

But when I'm running calibration tests at over double what the recommended exposure is, surely it is me who is doing something absurd and stupid, right?

Did Elegoo support have any idea or leads they were having you try to track down? What is the nature of your failures? I cannot give more precise advice without knowing what some of the issues are, but if you got the rook to print then the machine is capable of something, and it sounds like you had it do some prints. If you are leaving the printer for long periods of time I might make sure that the the Z axis is lubricated, the fep is clean, and re-level the bed. How transparent is the Neon Green? It might just take a while to print them. Run the cones until it works and then do a print at that setting and see what happens. What is your lift speed at? I would not think that would impact cones, but running the machine as fast as it goes can sometimes cause failures.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Ego Trip posted:

What's the temperature in the room with the printer?
I've found that below 70f/20c resin really doesn't want to work.

Chilling in my basement, so somewhere in the mid-low 60s. I should probably throw a space heater in there while I'm running off serious prints.


IncredibleIgloo posted:

Did Elegoo support have any idea or leads they were having you try to track down? What is the nature of your failures? I cannot give more precise advice without knowing what some of the issues are, but if you got the rook to print then the machine is capable of something, and it sounds like you had it do some prints. If you are leaving the printer for long periods of time I might make sure that the the Z axis is lubricated, the fep is clean, and re-level the bed. How transparent is the Neon Green? It might just take a while to print them. Run the cones until it works and then do a print at that setting and see what happens. What is your lift speed at? I would not think that would impact cones, but running the machine as fast as it goes can sometimes cause failures.

For some reason I straight up cannot find my email chain with support. Their diagnostics were, tbf, pretty lovely. It was mostly "print this rook. now print this rook. now send us a photo of the screen turned on with a piece of paper on top. okay, we'll send you a new screen"
As far as my failures, it's all classic underexposure. I can't even get the arch in the sirayatech calibration model to complete if I set the exposure to under 5s. It's like my mono screen requires exposure settings for a non-mono printer.

My Mars 2, meanwhile, happily chugs along with no issues.

I've definitely gotten prints off of my Saturn, it works, I just have to crank the exposure times way up from whatever the standard profiles are. Could the machine itself be underpowered or something? Not sending enough juice to the LED array?

Isometric Bacon
Jul 24, 2004

Let's get naked!
Any chance it's just something simple like the calibration of the home position?

I went through a bunch of hell with my first prints, sometimes working, sometimes not, thinking it was a temp issue and heading up the resin with a heat gun prior to every print.

Eventually I realised that the guide (Anycubic) did an absolute terrible job of explaining just how to calibrate the home position with a piece of paper, and that the point of the paper was not to just make it flat / offset on the screen - but to exist for you to pull on it to determine that the plate was uniformly flat in all areas - which you can achieve by reworking the screws until it all uniformly pulls in the same direction without spinning.

Once I had done that, my prints have been pretty rock solid consistent.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Anyone in the US make / use an enclosure heater? If so, what? I picked up a seed-starter heating pad / thermostat, but it's not cutting it in the coldness of my attic. It is only 20W, so perhaps just getting a 40W version would do it.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Isometric Bacon posted:

Any chance it's just something simple like the calibration of the home position?


Y'know, the model I'm trying to print right now is symmetrical, and has failed on the same side two times in a row
I'm gonna do a Z calibration against the vat rather than the cardstock they gave me and see if that fixes anything.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Alright, reset Z, running another test, see how that goes

Here's what I pulled off from the last failure--




and my settings:


You can see that the supports just yanked off of the raft, you can see wicked bad layer lines (what is the term for the non-print "this is a fuckup" layer lines?) along the sides, the left side just ... yeeted itself into space right off the get


And this is with a 5s exposure time, on a resin recommended to use 2.2

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Sockser posted:

Alright, reset Z, running another test, see how that goes

Here's what I pulled off from the last failure--




and my settings:


You can see that the supports just yanked off of the raft, you can see wicked bad layer lines (what is the term for the non-print "this is a fuckup" layer lines?) along the sides, the left side just ... yeeted itself into space right off the get


And this is with a 5s exposure time, on a resin recommended to use 2.2

Is your machine a Saturn or Saturn 2?

Have you ever tried lowering the lift speed? Speed at 180 is really high and likely to pluck supports right off. A slower speed allows them to flex a little bit more greatly reducing the instantaneous force they feel. Have you ever tried printing anything at like 60?

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


Get a cardboard box and some reptile heat mats. 60s is way too low.

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IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





My print area is temperature controlled and warm, with an enclosure also. What speed do most people print at?

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