|
a dingus posted:So I done gone hosed up and totally stripped the spark plug threads in a small engine (honda CT90). I cross threaded it and just kept tightening it like a total moron until it started getting loose again. Is there anything I can do to save it, or do I need to buy a new head? I think they can helicoil it. I say They because it's not something you want to do at home, you might have poo poo in the cylinder from stripping the threads already but the process of helicoiling generates a lot of debris that they have to keep out of the cylinder. Don't start that engine IMO.
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 01:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 16:53 |
|
|
a dingus posted:So I done gone hosed up and totally stripped the spark plug threads in a small engine (honda CT90). I cross threaded it and just kept tightening it like a total moron until it started getting loose again. Is there anything I can do to save it, or do I need to buy a new head? gently caress. I mean....yes. You can do stuff and it doesn't require a new head. Can you take it off and replace it? Because if you think you can do that you can absolutely bring it to a machine shop who can fix you up. But that head needs to come off. E: Velocibacon might be right......that's just too small of a motor for me to even consider that kind of thing. It would cost more to move the whole thing than just just bring the head to get done up right. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Nov 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 01:20
|
|
|
kastein posted:Please be very careful about brake dust on that, being as old as it is, high chance of asbestos. It should be done outside and after soaking the whole brake system down with water ideally. thanks! yeah as soon as i took off the first one and saw the dust i thought about that. i wore a mask, stood back and im outside 
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 05:11
|
|
|
Motronic posted:gently caress. I mean....yes. You can do stuff and it doesn't require a new head. Yeah honestly a head from a wrecker might be the way to go now that I've thought about it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 06:23
|
|
|
Given that a CT90 has the same engine as the Super Cub, the highest-selling motor vehicle in history, I bet there are also zillions of new aftermarket heads available for cheap online.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 06:28
|
|
|
STR posted:Get name brand halogens from Rockauto or Amazon (they're stupid expensive everywhere else; just a cheap Phillips or Sylvania will work fine), swap all 4 since the ones that came with your new housings were crap. Drove around Texas for Thanksgiving and every late 90s truck owner rather than buying a new truck has upgraded their yellow halogen lights with 2000 lumen LED disaster blinding things of doom. I just slow down and let them pass me rather than let them slowly roast my retinas from 500 ft away. Very obvious, their beam pattern looks like a dollar store flashlight and whiter than Ivanka trump's husband
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 10:41
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Given that a CT90 has the same engine as the Super Cub, the highest-selling motor vehicle in history, I bet there are also zillions of new aftermarket heads available for cheap online. Yep this is what I was thinking if I couldn't helicoil it at home or something. Thankfully it looks fairly easy to remove and replacements are like $50 - $100. But drat am I annoyed with myself making such a dumb mistake! Thanks all!
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 12:51
|
|
|
Can an old/lovely pcv valve cause excessive oil consumption? '09 Corolla, 250,300 km on the clock, 2.4l engine which I think was also in the Camry. I've heard these engines were known for burning oil but I just want to make sure its not something else. As I split the time driving between this and my Tacoma these days I can't really say that its burning X number of litres between oil changes or whatever because I haven't really paid that much attention to it. I've always followed the manufacturer's service intervals and a while back I had it in at the dealer and paid them an hour of labour while it was in for an alignment or something else, to check for oil leaks. They didn't note any leaks but the service advisor said the tech suggested that the PCV valve could be the culprit. I don't see any oil puddles/drips in my parking spot, and no noticeable blue smoke while starting up or while driving. PCV valve is original, so its probably time to change it. I've never done anything besides what has been recommended by Toyota so uhhhh I guess thats why I've never bothered to change it. Fake edit: Got my last oil change at 248,000km and recently had to put a litre of oil in it for it to show up on the dipstick, and then another litre to get it above the bottom line on the stick.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 12:58
|
|
|
Yes, it can, but it's much more likely you have one of the many engines impacted by clogged oil drain passages in the pistons. This shows up around 150k miles and definitely doesn't get any better. There's a whole warranty campaign on it and calls for replacing pistons - but I doubt that's actually necessary because if you clean the passages and throw a new set of rings on it should last for another 150k miles, which is more than the car is likely to last for. You're still pulling pistons, so it's not exactly a simple job.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 15:34
|
|
|
Does anyone here have a quickjack? Silly question: Would it be dumb to store them under my car? I have limited garage space, but could potentially keep them under the car pretty easily.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 18:04
|
|
|
Residency Evil posted:Does anyone here have a quickjack? Silly question: Would it be dumb to store them under my car? I have limited garage space, but could potentially keep them under the car pretty easily. I hang mine on a wall. No reason not to put them under the car I suppose, but you still have the rather large pump, hose set and lift blocks to store somewhere else.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 18:23
|
|
|
I have a 1999 Honda Accord DX, about 2 weeks ago it started to overheat after about 3 miles of driving. Temp gauge got hot but not in the red, and i did see steam escaping the hood as i parked. So then i left the car alone and it made some gurgling noises. I called a local shop the same day said "car overheat, what do?" and they want me to bring it in on this thursday to look and see what the issue is. Since then i put some more coolant in it, drove it around, it still got hot and then i popped the hood there was car juice spraying about. I have identified there is a coolant leak.... by identify i mean i can point to the hose that is leaking but i dunno what the hose is called or anything. My first issue is, I dont think i can or should drive the car to the shop right? I can fill it up with coolant but if the hose fails or wont hold pressure i could just kill my car on the way there and be more hosed than i am Second, can i do this myself or get someone who isnt going to charge me what the mechanic is to replace the hose? Third, is there any way to know if i have further hosed my car up because it was running hot with little to no coolant for a time?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 19:26
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I hang mine on a wall. No reason not to put them under the car I suppose, but you still have the rather large pump, hose set and lift blocks to store somewhere else. That's helpful, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 19:32
|
|
|
Beer_Suitcase posted:I have a 1999 Honda Accord DX, about 2 weeks ago it started to overheat after about 3 miles of driving. Temp gauge got hot but not in the red, and i did see steam escaping the hood as i parked. 1: I would not drive that car to the shop unless it was like around the block. 2: Yes you can replace the hose yourself pretty easily if it's accessible. I'm unfamiliar with the 99 accord but I assume it is. There's YT videos on how to do it. YT is amazing for this kind of thing 3: Not right off the bat. Once the system can hold pressure again you can pressure test it. The thing to worry about is warping the head, but if you didn't overheat the engine you probably avoided any major issues. A car that old though you just don't know. I'd be worried about headgasket failure or the head warping and causing issues.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 19:44
|
|
|
Where is the correct place to buy jack stands from The heaviest car I plan to own is in the next five years is 4000 lbs I bet harbor freight's QC on jack stands is amazing now that one failed and crushed that guy, but there's probably a better answer here
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 22:17
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:1: I would not drive that car to the shop unless it was like around the block. The shop is about 4 miles away but it looks to be a heater hose! Now i dont have tools but i know people that do. Also this video seems to be my exact problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3aVzqNJMsg knowing all this, is it worth having to tow my car to the shop to have this do this?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 22:23
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:Where is the correct place to buy jack stands from Whatever is cheapest honestly. They've got to have massive safety overshoot on the rated capacity so your 4-5k lb rated stands are likely very safe up to like 7-8k lb (do not use them for more than their rated capacity obviously). If you're buying new jack stands from a big retailer I don't think you're going to get a dangerous product.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 22:51
|
|
|
Beer_Suitcase posted:The shop is about 4 miles away but it looks to be a heater hose! If your friends with tools are cool with it, probably go there. The hose is easy. Filling the coolant is straight forward but more than just add coolant. You'll have to leave the system open at the cap, heat on inside, and run the car so it can get air out of the system. This takes a while but it's not hard to do. Check it again next day or too. Just to be on the safe side DO NOT EVER OPEN A HOT AND PRESSURIZED COOLING SYSYEM the pressure raises the boiling point, and popping the cap off if it's under pressure causes boiling coolant to vomit onto whoever has their hand on the cap. Cap off cold, it's safe to let it heat up. Squeeze a hose to check for pressure.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 23:02
|
|
|
Beer_Suitcase posted:The shop is about 4 miles away but it looks to be a heater hose! I don't think it's worth it. I would bet someone in your immediate family or friend group would be able to help you replace that hose. Bum a ride to the local parts store, get the part and some coolant and get it replaced. Shouldn't be a big deal at all. re: Jackstands... I just bought some Torin Big Red 3 Ton Jack Stands from Wal-Mart when I needed them. It was my closest and least expensive option.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 23:07
|
|
|
Yeah, assuming money is tight and you're willing to learn, this is a great "first car repair" type job. Buying all the tools you'd need to do this would be less than the labor charge from a shop, possibly less than the tow bill, and now you have tools to do this job and ones like it in the future.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 23:16
|
|
|
This is the car we take on "long trips" to Portland for the kiddos dance comps, about 3 hours drive and my wife is concerned if i repair the car it will be all hosed up and break The guys at the shop want $125 just to crack it open and see whats wrong. I know whats wrong now so i dont see the sense in doing a tow and then having them put a hose on if i can spend some time, blood, cursing and less money to do it myself. If i have to spend money id rather spend it later on something else that might be wrong and not spend it on a tow and this hose ive seen people replace on the internet Beer_Suitcase fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Nov 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 23:30
|
|
|
There's a few ways this repair could end. Best case, and most likely scenario, is that you complete the repair correctly with no issues and don't even have to swear too much. Of the possible "bad ends" here, from most to least likely: *Something else breaks in the process of doing the repair, such as a brittle hose connection that snaps off of the heater core when you try to remove the hose. If you are careful about how you remove the hose, meaning you don't just yank as hard as you can from whatever angle you feel like, this should only happen if the part in question is so close to failure that it was going to strand you soon anyway, and would probably have been something a professional mechanic would call you up mid-repair and ask for approval to replace. *You complete the repair but discover that something else is catastrophically wrong - say, you managed to overheat the engine enough the first time to blow the head gasket. Which if this is the case, you've already done that damage now and trying to fix it yourself has nothing to do with the fault. And the absolute least likely scenario is that you don't complete the repair properly, you end up with the same leak, except this time you don't pay attention to any of the warning signs and overheat the hell out of the engine. Seeing as you're already attentive enough to notice the car overheating/steaming in the first place and not just keep on driving, this seems all but impossible. If you do the repair right - and again, this is an easy one to get right - there's absolutely nothing different in how your repair versus a shop's repair is going to last or affect the vehicle's longevity.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 00:06
|
|
|
If the fittings the hose slips onto are metal, you'll probably be ok unless you tweak the hell out of the heater core. If they're plastic. Buy all the prerequisite plastic bits or farm this job out. Pre drain some of your vehicle's coolant. You'll need that later. There's tools for making easy removal of spring type hose clamps and hoses themselves. Screw clamp? doesn't hurt to buy a spare especially if it's an older vehicle. Shy of buying the right tools... Use a razor knife to cut the old hose off the fittings. Just a single slit axially down the hose where it slips over the fitting will work fine. It'll save having to fight with it. Do the other hose with it. And ideally, do the hot side radiator hose too. Give em a squish, squishy soft hoses are dead.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 00:20
|
|
|
Beer_Suitcase posted:This is the car we take on "long trips" to Portland for the kiddos dance comps, about 3 hours drive and my wife is concerned if i repair the car it will be all hosed up and break You got it, post pics if you get stuck. I agree on all the points above. Let me know of you are going to go for it and I'll start an effort post on the part about burping the coolant system.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 00:26
|
|
|
You can do this. You need a pair of slipjoint/Channelock pliers to get the hose clamps off. Take your time so you don't damage anything else. With no experience this shouldn't take more than 2-hours tops. I've been working on several Accords of this vintage, both 4s and V6s, & can change this hose out in 15-minutes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 00:47
|
|
|
2004 Saturn Vue with 150k miles on it, front brakes are making loud grindy "time to replace" sound when brakes are applied. Can I get away with only front pads if I only expect this thing to last another 10k?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 01:33
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:2004 Saturn Vue with 150k miles on it, front brakes are making loud grindy "time to replace" sound when brakes are applied. There's not really a way to answer that without knowing the condition of the rotors. Most likely, yes, but the rotors need to be in good enough shape.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 01:37
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:2004 Saturn Vue with 150k miles on it, front brakes are making loud grindy "time to replace" sound when brakes are applied. How "grindy"? Send rotor pics. Why only 10k more.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 01:57
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:There's not really a way to answer that without knowing the condition of the rotors. Buying them for someone else who isn't handy and I can't check it myself, but I did find a pair of front pad+rotor on Amazon for $82 shipped, that's barely more than just pads at the local O'Reilly. Hopefully Autoshack brand isn't made of cheesium. honda whisperer posted:How "grindy"? It was fuckin' loud when you stop for a red light, but he only drove for like 10 miles like that. I dunno why 10k more (wishful thinking that it will die before then), I'm astonished that shitbox made it this far, it's mold, AC compressor seized and had to be bypassed years ago, multiple panels torn out, it's like the most miserable car imaginable except for the unkillable drivetrain, which is apparently a rebadged Honda. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Nov 30, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 02:02
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:2004 Saturn Vue with 150k miles on it, front brakes are making loud grindy "time to replace" sound when brakes are applied. The quickest way to answer that depends on how easily to can reach the rotor faces. If you can do it with the wheels on: run the edge of your fingernail along the face from the spindle out (across the face) If it's relatively smooth on both sides, you can replace the pads. Really the biggest determinants of rotor replacement are: a) warp and b) thickness of the rotor. I have replaced pads on some fairly scored rotors that were otherwise true & had enough material on them to stay that way. If all you're looking for is another 10,000 miles, pads will probably do the job. If you can replace the rotors & pads for $100, probably easier to do that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 02:43
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:You got it, post pics if you get stuck. I agree on all the points above. Let me know of you are going to go for it and I'll start an effort post on the part about burping the coolant system. Also, quick word of advice, lube is a big help when it comes to removing and reinstalling rubber hoses. Even the "wrong" lubricant like WD40 can make life much easier getting stuff off and on. When in doubt, lube it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 04:47
|
|
|
Bajaha posted:Also, quick word of advice, lube is a big help when it comes to removing and reinstalling rubber hoses. Even the "wrong" lubricant like WD40 can make life much easier getting stuff off and on. Spitting on it totally works too. Just like sex.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 04:50
|
|
|
Instructions unclear. Used antiseize. Now we both look like the tin man
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 06:21
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:There's a few ways this repair could end. two potential foot-guns that i think haven't been adequately pointed out are failing to bleed the cooling system, and incorrectly mixing the coolant when refilling. i once changed a thermostat and then blew the head gasket on a motor because i didnt realize that the radiator was below the thermostat housing, so there was a bleeding procedure that needed to be followed. since i didn't, an air pocket caused the motor to overheat and blow the gasket. i dont know if these honda motors are like that, but it's something to check and be attentive of when refilling. and def check which coolant it's supposed to have, and what it currently has in it. i know toyota uses their own red stuff that is unlike everything else, even back to the 80s, but idk what honda uses. if what's in there is significantly different from what you put back in, it could cause all sorts of goop. so do a lil research ahead of time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 08:02
|
|
|
hedgegnome posted:thanks! yeah it's got rust in all those areas. someone slapped some bondo on it and gave it a questionable paint job a while back.. both rear quarters, both rockers, driver and passenger floors are very rusty, and the passenger side was wrecked at some point. but overall it's very complete, runs ok, interior is solid and i don't think i overpaid.. much.. i think. but it looks good from 10 feet You're ride is cool as hell. A little rust never hurts anybody  One thing is if you're looking to do things in stages is I would ditch doing anything to the rear end (except maybe the spacers) and pick up a full front suspension rebuild kit and brake conversion. Better front suspension will make all the difference and they don't look too terribly expensive for A bodies.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2022 21:12
|
|
|
Need a new car for a family hauler, and I really like the price to feature ratio of the Kia Sportage hybrid (and can't find a carnival anywhere). Conservatively, what are the chances be that it catches fire? Not a car expert, but is it a thing of something in that's the same in all Kias is going to be a fire hazard, or is it specific only to certain models/trims/etc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2022 03:34
|
|
|
the chance that your car catches fire is effectively 0%
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2022 04:10
|
|
|
About that.. It's only specific models though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2022 04:35
|
|
|
Mustache Ride posted:You're ride is cool as hell. A little rust never hurts anybody thanks! yeah im pretty excited about getting it moving. i think im doing the axle conversion, front discs, the front end rebuild kit and some kyb shocks. also gonna have to get the cheapest steel wheels summit has in 5x4.5, along with tires. id love to get some QA1 parts, but i think im going stock and KYB so i can afford the sniper fuel injection and electronic ignition stuff (and omg so many other things) in the future. i also want to mess with the interior, i have to pull the dash apart to get the gauges working. ive only moved it around my driveway, so im not sure about the speedo. the temp guage and oil pressure never move, the alt twitches, and either im mostly out of gas or it doesnt work either the dash itself needs reconditioned, and its got a lame 80s tape deck. theres mystery wires hanging from under the dash, turning on the fan (it works!) makes noise from the speakers (sony xplodes )l.. have my work cut out for me. hopefully i can accomplish even a 1/4 of what i want to do 
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2022 07:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 16:53 |
|
|
PageMaster posted:Need a new car for a family hauler, and I really like the price to feature ratio of the Kia Sportage hybrid (and can't find a carnival anywhere). Conservatively, what are the chances be that it catches fire? Not a car expert, but is it a thing of something in that's the same in all Kias is going to be a fire hazard, or is it specific only to certain models/trims/etc. There have been 8 fires (and 15 melted or damaged but non catastrophic) involving them in the last 5 years. They recalled 72k vehicles. That is 22 chances per million that one you buy will catch fire in any given year (0.0022% chance.) If I was looking for such a vehicle I would buy it no problem. That's not to say that I wouldn't have the recall done as soon as possible but I wouldn't lose sleep over it until then. This is pretty much exactly what I told my brother when his Honda was subject to the takata airbag recall - even with the heightened chance of shrapnel to the face and neck, the flawed airbag was many times more likely to save his life than end it, and personally I would not even disable the flawed airbag to drive prior to recall appointment.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2022 07:30
|
|
