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Good to hear about the compressor. It should be cycling off at 0psi though. Normally I don't particularly trust the gauge that comes with a refill kit, but it's possible considering the compressor's behavior. I'd check the low pressure cut off switch actually works. It should be removable without discharging your refrigerant, but double check me on that first. Once you find your blacklight from the 90s, see if any dye is coming out the condensate drain. It washes away quicker than most places and the evaporator is a frequent leaky spot.
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Nov 8, 2022 14:01
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Double post, but I forgot earlier and it's important. Avoid putting anything that says Stop Leak on the package in your AC system. Sometimes it's fine. Other times it plugs the tiny orifice in your AC system and burns out your compressor as it tries to pump past the obstruction. I put in a can of refrigerant with Stop Leak and by the time I finished my road trip the compressor was completely seized and the clutch welded itself together trying to make it spin. Told that story to a friend of mine and he forgot and destroyed the compressor in his car the same way a year later.
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Nov 8, 2022 19:35
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And even if it does neither of those things by some stroke of luck, it works by curing on contact with air, so if or when you have to open the system, all the uncured stop leak in there will cure where it's not supposed to.
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Nov 8, 2022 20:51
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Confirm/deny that you can simply unscrew the pressure cut off switches without refrigerant spraying out? If so, I'd pull the low pressure switch and see if it still has continuity. If it does, it needs to be replaced. It's hard to diagnose a car over the internet, but it seems like there isn't enough refrigerant and the car doesn't know any better.
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Nov 9, 2022 04:17
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I'm 99% certain that when I had to mess with the pressure switch on my WJ, there was a Schrader valve underneath it so you could do the switch swap without evacuating/recharging.
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Nov 9, 2022 16:27
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starter went in my xj just in time for snow! have the new one here just need enough time to crawl under on the street and get it swapped in. Haven't done this on mine before; anything to watch out for?
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Nov 29, 2022 21:27
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Don't mix up the bolts, because fun fact, one's standard and one's metric! 
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Nov 29, 2022 22:52
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The Fear posted:starter went in my xj just in time for snow! have the new one here just need enough time to crawl under on the street and get it swapped in. Disconnect the + terminal at the battery before you start. Similarly, if your battery cables are old and corroded/rotted, it would be a convenient time to install a new set. A set of horse blinders would be useful to keep you from noticing the oil pan gasket leak, the valve cover gasket leak, and the oil filter housing leak.
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Nov 30, 2022 00:19
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Well that was a fun surprise to find Good news is they weren’t able to steal it. They also tried to Hotwire it by tapping into the steering wheel controls wiring harness 🤦🏻♂️ And I learned it takes less than 2 minutes to drill out the ignition cylinder and start an XJ (or get the hosed up cylinder out to replace it) I also learned how to re-key a new cylinder by sight. (Good luck reading the wafer numbers on the old cylinder after drilling it out!) At least it was a cheap fix ($30 for a new ignition cylinder and steering column trim piece) Fun with Jeeps!
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Nov 30, 2022 02:20
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this guy got dropped off today and i am excited. ive wanted a CJ since i was a kid riding in my grandpa's, and i also love AMC stuff, so this was inevitable. going to try to get it ship shape for a trip through the mojave in the spring with a group of friends. im sure i will have tons of questions for this thread in the next several weeks.
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Dec 12, 2022 10:03
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hell yeah
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Dec 12, 2022 21:06
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I love it, can’t wait to see more.
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Dec 12, 2022 22:40
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Raluek posted:this guy got dropped off today and i am excited. ive wanted a CJ since i was a kid riding in my grandpa's, and i also love AMC stuff, so this was inevitable. ok so the basic rundown is that, as-delivered, it has four major impediments to being a working vehicle. namely:
im tinkering with the motor on and off. it feels like a timing problem (coughs backfires and dies with throttle) but could just need the carb gone through too. i know how to do that stuff, i think, and progress is being made as i check off potential causes from the list. any reason i shouldn't stick weld the spring perches? i have the HF 90A inverter welder which i was planning on using, but if it would be a better idea to MIG it i can borrow my friend's machine. anyway, i mostly made this post for tires. it's currently got 35s, and i intend to stay with that size. i don't need daily driver comfort, but will be driving it on the road, so i was thinking mud terrains. mostly concerned with performance in the dirt/sand/rocks, but it does have to drive on the road too. bay area, so no snow/ice driving unless i go out to the mountains to play. KM3s are on the table, but im also looking at cooper's offerings. not opposed to splashing out for the BFGs, but i do appreciate getting bang for my buck. seems like everyone on the internet raves about the discoverer stt pro, and they also make the evolution M/T. it's not super clear to me what the differences are between the two, other than this article that sounds like an advertisement. cooper themselves sure don't go out of their way to say anything meaningful about the differences between them.  anyone here have experience with either? looks like IOC has the evo MT on his TJ, any others? Raluek fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Dec 22, 2022 |
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Dec 22, 2022 10:37
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I had Cooper ST Maxxes on my XJ and loved them - they're a hybrid AT/MT and they were great all over the Mojave for years. Sadly last I checked they don't make a 35" in that model. A friend runs Coopers on his 4Runner and also loves them. I put Dick Cepeks (owned by Cooper) on my JK early this year and they've been great so far, but can't speak to the longevity yet. All this to be said, I don't have experience with the two you mentioned but I wouldn't hesitate to run either Cooper - especially with the price of BFGs. It's hard finding tire reviews that aren't a sponsored article, but try playing with your search string to include the word "forum" and you'll get actual people/discussions.
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Dec 22, 2022 17:07
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Yeah for the use case you described I wouldn't hesitate to go with the Evo MT instead of the STT. I'm sure the STT is great but holy poo poo that's a chunk of change to go up to that.
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Dec 22, 2022 18:07
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At this point, nearly any modern a/t, m/t or hybrid, be it name brand or Amazon specials, will provide fantastic off road and on road performance. I put a set of the new Nankang m/t conquerors on my Samurai because they were literally the cheapest 31" m/t available, and the new design looks pretty good as well. They do fantastic off road and they are good on the street. I don't have enough power to push limitations on the road, but I beat the poo poo out of them off-road with zero issues. I would determine how aggressive your tread design needs to be by the terrain you'll be wheeling, and then if you have to deal with slick conditions on road (lots of rain or snow and ice), then be sure to pick a design with some amount of siping (3 peak rated if needed). From there it's determined by personal preference and price. A more expensive name brand will probably get you longer tread life and less road noise, but that's not a given, and we know alignment, balance, suspension condition, maintenance etc play a part. So you kind of can't go wrong with modern tire offerings if you don't have a very specific use case, i.e., west coast desert rockcrawling vs east coast muddy rock trails. As to your question about welding the spring perches, no issue with either method, so pick whichever you are more comfortable with. 110v should be fine for the thickness of a spring perch, typically.
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Dec 22, 2022 19:47
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I agree, you will be fine welding that either way as long as you crank the heat up and go for it. Pick your poison. Make sure you set your pinion angle correctly and get your axle centered - I like to measure backing plate flange to spring on both sides though there are likely even more accurate ways. For pinion angle just put the axle on stands (not the frame) and remove wheels, loosen the ubolts a little, use your floor jack and a big pipe wrench to dial it in, lower the jack again, measure everything for the type of shaft you're running, continue adjusting as needed, then retorque the ubolts enough to get the springs flattened to where they'll be when fully torqued (this is important, I've seen it change pinion angle a bit before), verify your angle is still right, tack weld the perches and pull the ubolts and ubolt plates (jack the Jeep up by the frame before this point if it's spring under, otherwise removing the ubolts will injure you or the Jeep) and full weld it all. Spray bomb it and put it back together. Sounds complicated but having done it a few times now this is the most efficient, accurate way I've come up with.
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Dec 22, 2022 22:01
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kastein posted:I agree, you will be fine welding that either way as long as you crank the heat up and go for it. Pick your poison. Make sure you set your pinion angle correctly and get your axle centered - I like to measure backing plate flange to spring on both sides though there are likely even more accurate ways. it has a double cardan rear shaft, and visually it looks like it's pointed straight at the pinion, but i do intend to measure it more accurately to confirm. good idea on the side-to-side measurement, i will give that a double check as well. will refer back to this post when i get to the welding stage, thanks for the tips 
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Dec 22, 2022 22:14
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I'd say aim it 0 to 0.75 degree below the driveshaft itself then. This depends on how stiff the springs are as well and also personal preference and driving style somewhat. I underestimated the stiffness of my new metric ton rated springs on my MJ and I get some substantial vibration over 70mph now because I gave it my usual 1-1.5 degrees, I'm used to super flexy off-road springs not heavy duty hauling ones. E: depends on wheelbase too, the shorter it is the more pronounced your pinion rise will be under load holding all else constant. Leaf spring pinion angle setup is kind of a fuckshow to get right and I have never enjoyed it. I'm going to end up buying shims... Speaking of which if you end up buying shims, get steel ones not aluminum.
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Dec 22, 2022 22:20
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The rocker panels on the XJ apparently have little holes in them where the metal is pressed together that look perfect for water intrusion, as I discovered today while cleaning all the salt off them. Can I seal them with something?
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Dec 30, 2022 01:25
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The ones along the bottom of the pinch weld? You want those staying open, those are how water that comes in from above can drain and evaporate back out. If you want an XJ to last forever, run a spray head on a wand up in there allll the way to the other end of the rocker, spray hot fresh water through it while very slowly withdrawing it, make sure you rinse every single inch of the inside of the rocker, then repeat with 99% IPA, let it dry completely, like for several weeks inside, then cavity wax it extremely thoroughly.
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Dec 30, 2022 02:45
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I was looking at the Facebook Group "OEM Wheels on other Makes & Models" and I saw an XJ Cherokee lowered on a set of BMW wheels. Someone made a comment that is exactly correct. A lowered Cherokee looks like a caricature of a Volvo wagon.
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Jan 5, 2023 23:24
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Honestly, Volvo 740s just look like a Cherokee that was photographed in 4:3 and then displayed in 16:9 by accident.
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Jan 6, 2023 00:09
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New neighbor moved in upstairs, and they have a Jeep. I'm not a Jeep expert, so I will have to take a close look next time I see it, but I believe it's an XJ. It looks like it's been offroad some.
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Jan 19, 2023 03:34
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Impossible, nobody goes off-road in a Jeep.
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Jan 19, 2023 20:54
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Braincloud posted:Well that was a fun surprise to find Wow, amateurs. I had my XJ stolen in Atlanta several years ago. Apparently some kids jammed a flathead screwdriver in the ignition, started it up, and took it for a joyride. They just popped off the trim piece and didn't permanently damage a single thing, which is kind of amazing. Well, I think the cylinder was a little hosed up, but insurance replaced that no problem. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 03:53
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My dad's jeep grand cherokee is having intermittent starter issues again. I fixed it a couple of years ago by going in through the driver's side wheel well and pulling the terminal off and cleaning it and putting it back with some dielectric grease to try to keep it from corroding up again, and it was fine for maybe 3-4 years or so. This time I couldn't get the driver's side front wheel off. The awful two piece lug nuts were blasted on by some shop he took it to who knows how long ago and got stuck on there solidly. Three lug nuts were stuck. One I got out with a 6 foot extension and an extractor. One cracked in half with the extractor, but not up the side which would potentially be helpful. One turned completely round with the extractor and stayed on. I've been drilling on the last one for a couple of hours (off and on) and finally got the lug off, so now I get to do the other one, then replace the wheel studs, then I can fix the starter issue. We got some one piece lug nuts to replace the two piece ones and I'm afraid to replace them on the other three wheels considering how much of a pain this one was. At least I have the method to fix it now if I have to, as well as a box of wheel studs, I guess. On the plus side, the deal was that if I had to work on his car he was buying some tools to make it easier, so he picked up a 3 ton daytona jack (I didn't feel comfortable with my pittsburgh 1.5T racing one on the 3 ton jeep) and a high torque impact which I've needed for a while. I think it's fair. gently caress the chryslerdodgejeep two piece lug nuts. I don't love the lug bolts on my VW but I prefer them to this mess.
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Feb 9, 2023 01:32
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Rexxed posted:My dad's jeep grand cherokee is having intermittent starter issues again. I fixed it a couple of years ago by going in through the driver's side wheel well and pulling the terminal off and cleaning it and putting it back with some dielectric grease to try to keep it from corroding up again, and it was fine for maybe 3-4 years or so. This time I couldn't get the driver's side front wheel off. The awful two piece lug nuts were blasted on by some shop he took it to who knows how long ago and got stuck on there solidly. Three lug nuts were stuck. One I got out with a 6 foot extension and an extractor. One cracked in half with the extractor, but not up the side which would potentially be helpful. One turned completely round with the extractor and stayed on. I've been drilling on the last one for a couple of hours (off and on) and finally got the lug off, so now I get to do the other one, then replace the wheel studs, then I can fix the starter issue. We got some one piece lug nuts to replace the two piece ones and I'm afraid to replace them on the other three wheels considering how much of a pain this one was. At least I have the method to fix it now if I have to, as well as a box of wheel studs, I guess. That took more than I thought it would. YouTube certified mechanic over here.  Now I can work on fixing the actual problem, since getting a wheel off took many hours of drilling out wheel studs.
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Feb 12, 2023 01:29
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RIP old fuel pump, 198k and finally died.
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Feb 18, 2023 23:33
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Whelp after my batteries failed at the 26mo mark, I've converted to always turning off ESS. We simply don't have south/midwest types of 10min traffic lights here, and 60sec isn't worth the fuel if it means the aux battery goes parasitic every two years. Sooo the tazer is in. I need to upgrade the firmware because the PIN start lock was what made me finally do it. The brake hold is interesting and I'm not yet used to the camera on turn signaling. So far it hasn't drained the batteries. On order soon is the fuse array. It blew when the aux battery died and I'm worried they used the wrong replacement. Need to get a spare before I press my aux switches just in case.
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Feb 21, 2023 23:38
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I need someone to tell me to leave well enough alone. I rented a set of O2 sensor sockets to see if there was excessive back pressure from my suspect catalog converter. Turns out I can't get leverage on the socket and my exhaust is old and rusty (I think my hole filled muffler is the third one that's been on this car) and it's showing no other signs of being plugged other than an occasional error code. ... Or I could press on and turn this mild annoyance into an actual problem.
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Feb 22, 2023 19:05
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Leave that the gently caress alone unless you want to replace the downpipe, O2 sensor, half the skin on your knuckles, the two manifold studs in the collector flange (assuming it's a 4.0 XJ style one), and maybe pay someone to weld the new downpipe to the cat, I can't remember your particular equipment and skillset. If anything, unbolt the cat at the front flange (if it has one, that's 94 and older only I think), or unbolt the downpipe from the header. The latter may mean broken bolts and such and it won't run right without the O2 but it'll tell you if it's a plugged cat just revving it in open loop.
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Feb 23, 2023 02:32
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kastein posted:Leave that the gently caress alone unless you want to replace the downpipe, O2 sensor, half the skin on your knuckles, the two manifold studs in the collector flange (assuming it's a 4.0 XJ style one), and maybe pay someone to weld the new downpipe to the cat, I can't remember your particular equipment and skillset. Thank you for telling me what I already knew, but needed to hear anyway. Unfortunately my beloved XJ I learned to drive on was murdered a few years ago by a Patriot with poo poo brakes being driven to the scrapyard while I was stopped at a light*. Ever since then I've been driving a WK with a Hemi that on paper is better in almost every way but its less fun to drive so I still haven't bonded with it. *I'd never realized it before, but its ironic that my XJ could stop really well because I'd replaced the rear brakes with disks I got from a junkyard Patriot.
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Feb 23, 2023 02:43
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I don't know gently caress about poo poo when it comes to WKs or hemis so take what I said with an entire shaker worth of salt unless it lines up with what you're looking at.
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Feb 23, 2023 05:49
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From what I've seen, there is even less access to the O2 sensors, the cats (plural!) are tucked away tight enough that the whole midpipe needs to be replaced as a unit, and this thing has a rustier exhaust than my XJ that was 9 years older. So if anything your advice is even more applicable.
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Feb 23, 2023 12:12
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Ok, 2016 JKU Sport, 96,000 miles. Brakes begin making a grinding noise. Ok, I call and get a brake appointment for one week later. On the day before the appt, brakes go soft, so I take it in right then. Pads, rotors front and back, also calipers on the back. Pick up jeep, drive home, feels ok. SIts two days, drive, brakes are soft, one inch before brakes engage, but braking is otherwise fine. One pump makes them stiff, though. Take it back, report it to the guys, they say they likely need to bleed the lines, and they do it. Drive off, brakes seem OK. Next day, brakes soft, exactly like before, one inch play, one pump makes the brake stiff. Brakes seem to brake fine, though. So, what's left? Did not have master cylinder issues before, what could cause this post-bleed?
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Feb 23, 2023 21:06
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It is absolutely possible (and something I've experienced multiple times) that a master cylinder can develop internal leaks due to other brake hydraulic work. The theory is that in normal use, your brake master cylinder only goes through a certain percentage of its stroke, so the portion that isn't touched can build up corrosion that isn't getting swept away by the seals. When you have to bleed the brake system, now you're pushing the master cylinder piston through that crud and damaging the seals. The only thing that gives me pause here, is that every time I've seen this behavior, it's been on something decades old.
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Feb 23, 2023 21:27
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if they're not bleeding the abs module it can present issues like this. outside of that, yeah, the master is failing. Look for fluid leaks at the base where the cylinder bolts to the booster.
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Feb 23, 2023 21:29
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Figured it was the master. Not too hard to change out myself, at least.
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Feb 23, 2023 22:28
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| # ? May 27, 2024 13:21 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:It is absolutely possible (and something I've experienced multiple times) that a master cylinder can develop internal leaks due to other brake hydraulic work. The theory is that in normal use, your brake master cylinder only goes through a certain percentage of its stroke, so the portion that isn't touched can build up corrosion that isn't getting swept away by the seals. When you have to bleed the brake system, now you're pushing the master cylinder piston through that crud and damaging the seals. I've seen it recommended to put a block of wood behind the pedal during bleeding for this reason (I doubt a shop did it "the old fashioned way" though). So yeah, probably the seals tore while driving with crummy brakes. Either that or the shop missed tightening something up. I'd probably shut the car off, give the brake a few pumps to get rid of the vacuum, and then just absolutely stand on the pedal for a while and see if it goes down at all. Check for leaks after. That's how I found out I had a poo poo brake line once at least.
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Feb 24, 2023 01:50
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