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Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

One thing can be in another location to another and still used but if the consensus is that's still a little on the risky side Im more than happy to look at other solutions I may have available to me.

I think someone asked this earlier, but is there someplace you could rent like a dedicated maker space/studio space to do your printing? I know a lot of the UK YouTubers I see doing stuff with resin printing often have it set up in a studio or workshop they're renting (though they're probably renting it with those big YouTuber bucks they get).

Alternatively, yeah, you'd probably need to look at moving out of London and to someplace where you could dedicate a spare bedroom or a shed or something to doing your 3D printing (though of course that's a lot easier said than done, to say the least). I used to live about 45 minutes or so from London way back in the early 1990s, and even then it always used to surprise me how much more space the houses out in the 'burbs and surrounding towns had when compared to "The Smoke".

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Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
We are looking to move out of London potentially but it wouldn't be for another 12 months or so.

It's worth noting I've no intention of running this 24/7 or something at this point either.

Current plan is it's going in the laundry cupboard with the washing machine other cleaning chemicals we store, in a grow tent and I'm going to look at how feasible it is to either vent outside while running a heavy duty air purifier (that cost twice what the printer did), in the hallway between the living area and where the cupboard is located and probably pick myself up a Prussia to really play with on the regular till I can get a better space set up.

As for post processing etc, I've ordered a respirator and a few bits and I think I'm going to stick with the more "eco friendly" plant based resins but I have a small utility sink I'm likely going to claim for personal use and utilise that area, obviously I don't plan to make a mess but I've seen some of the industrial cleaning we've had to do at work after minor spills and accidents etc and don't want to make the assumption that being careful will never lead to accidents.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

"You goons aren't listening to me"--no, the people continually giving you good and patient advice dismissing your claims because they're silly and unrealistic and nonresponsive to basic facts-on-the-ground reality. If you're looking at moving out in a year, just loving wait! Just spend $250 on a SV06 or a Neptune 3 Pro or something (there's not much reason to buy a Prusa today, units a third of its price are equivalent or better now) and be done with it.

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Nov 29, 2022

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

As for post processing etc, I've ordered a respirator and a few bits and I think I'm going to stick with the more "eco friendly" plant based resins but I have a small utility sink I'm likely going to claim for personal use and utilise that area, obviously I don't plan to make a mess but I've seen some of the industrial cleaning we've had to do at work after minor spills and accidents etc and don't want to make the assumption that being careful will never lead to accidents.

Venting through the kitchen still seems like a bad idea as I'm not sure how much I would want any air leaks coming out where we prepare food, however that's a gut feeling and I have no basis to prove any harm.

You have a great attitude, so there's half the battle (the other half is knowing). You mention a sink, so I am going to beat an undead horse and emphasize that you need to block the sink and not let any crap go down there unless it's cured. Also "eco friendly" doesn't mean it's any less toxic AFAIK. It just means it will 'biodegrade' in 100 years or so rather than thousands. Someone with a better knowledge of resins please correct me if I'm wrong.


And, yeah my workshop isn't coated in resin or anything but I've had plenty of unintended consequences happen. FEP gets a puncture and leaks, uncured parts go flinging off when taking them off supports, accidental drips no matter how careful I am, and the worst was losing my grip on a full resin vat when I needed to filter it and the resin splashing right off the tray I had under it and going down my leg. Those jeans were unrecoverable )yep, should have used an apron - I know).

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
Unless I'm misunderstanding something, I wouldn't use a utility sink for anything related to resin, even if you block the drain. If you have some kind of big spill (you never know!), it's going to be very hard to clean everything up and ensure you're not washing resin down the drain. If you're going to use that sink as a post-processing area or something, get a big loving plastic or silicone basin and work in that.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

tracecomplete posted:

"You goons aren't listening to me"--no, the people continually giving you good and patient advice dismissing your claims because they're silly and unrealistic and nonresponsive to basic facts-on-the-ground reality. If you're looking at moving out in a year, just loving wait! Just spend $250 on a SV06 or a Neptune 3 Pro or something (there's not much reason to buy a Prusa today, units a third of its price are equivalent or better now) and be done with it.

Plus the entry cost in terms of materials, etc. is definitely a lot lower in regards to FDM printing than it is with resin. With resin, you need surface protectors, nitrile gloves and other PPE, IPA to clean your prints, some sort of container to wash them in, something with UV light to cure them on non-sunny days (which the UK has a lot of :v:), etc. With FDM, you just need a printer (which usually includes all the tools you'd need to assemble and maintain it) and some filament, and you're set. It's also a cheaper way to determine if this hobby is even for you in the first place.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

We are looking to move out of London potentially but it wouldn't be for another 12 months or so.

It's worth noting I've no intention of running this 24/7 or something at this point either.

Current plan is it's going in the laundry cupboard with the washing machine other cleaning chemicals we store, in a grow tent and I'm going to look at how feasible it is to either vent outside while running a heavy duty air purifier (that cost twice what the printer did), in the hallway between the living area and where the cupboard is located and probably pick myself up a Prussia to really play with on the regular till I can get a better space set up.

As for post processing etc, I've ordered a respirator and a few bits and I think I'm going to stick with the more "eco friendly" plant based resins but I have a small utility sink I'm likely going to claim for personal use and utilise that area, obviously I don't plan to make a mess but I've seen some of the industrial cleaning we've had to do at work after minor spills and accidents etc and don't want to make the assumption that being careful will never lead to accidents.

eco-friendly resin is a huge misnomer, that poo poo is still incredibly bad and shouldn't be going in the sink. About the only time you should be mixing a sink/resin is if you get some on your skin.

Especially if your getting into the hobby fresh, Id look into a maker space first and foremost. I don't live in London, but I would be shocked if there weren't several that could get you access to FDM, resin, laser cutters, whatever you want really. The ones by me in Calgary are a super great resource, especially if you don't have a dedicated hobby space for handling hazardous work.

-----------

some questions to consider if you go forward:
-cleaning setup - do you have space for an alcohol bath, is it surrounded by washable, dedicated surfaces so you don't cross contaminate. You'll ideally want silicon matts or something similar as well that can collect minor spills and that can be easily washed

-what's your curing setup? similar to the cleaning question, you'll need a space (and probably equipment)for UV curing after you wash

- do you have somewhere to collect dedicated garbage? Anything that touches resin should ideally be cured. you're probably going to want a dedicated garbage because resin gets very messy.

-Is there any outside light that will get into where you have your printer? the sun will wreck havoc on resin as your opening/closing things and needs to be avoided.

-legit consider a neptune 3 and go with fdm. You can make wargaming terrain if thats what your interest in, and for a small space it has none of the concerns above (other than ideally a bit of ventilation or an enclosure)

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.

Paradoxish posted:

Unless I'm misunderstanding something, I wouldn't use a utility sink for anything related to resin, even if you block the drain. If you have some kind of big spill (you never know!), it's going to be very hard to clean everything up and ensure you're not washing resin down the drain. If you're going to use that sink as a post-processing area or something, get a big loving plastic or silicone basin and work in that.

Sorry I should have been more clear but I did mean using the sink with a dedicated washing up bowl or something and then just letting it cure. We have a few buckets around here too that have been used for repotting plants etc and I'm sure they would work just as good.

An apron however is something I didn't think of at all..

I was going to pick up one of those cleaning/curing stations too, while I get a poo poo load of natural light where I live as we have huge floor to ceiling window all over one side of the building, I assumed our lovely weather wouldn't be the best for curing and it would need a little more help.

Ragnar Gunvald fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Nov 29, 2022

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22p4ThOfEO0

Can anyone comment on this guy's assertion that white filament borks up printers?

I know it's harder to print due to the color additives.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Deviant posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22p4ThOfEO0

Can anyone comment on this guy's assertion that white filament borks up printers?

I know it's harder to print due to the color additives.

this is the feedback I got on the voron discord when I went with white. Basically white just needs a lot of additives so it can be less strong than other colors.

I think its a bit overblown though tbh. what that guys saying makes enough sense, but in practice I'd need to see some actual test info

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Nov 29, 2022

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

Deviant posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22p4ThOfEO0

Can anyone comment on this guy's assertion that white filament borks up printers?

I know it's harder to print due to the color additives.

Nothing he says is wrong, but I buy white PLA in bulk and never have problems. I've got brass nozzles with well over a thousand printing hours on them, so it's hard to really worry about this stuff if the end result is a part that costs pennies failing marginally sooner.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Deviant posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22p4ThOfEO0

Can anyone comment on this guy's assertion that white filament borks up printers?

I know it's harder to print due to the color additives.

Clickbait title, good information contained within. Any "fill" in a filament is gonna work on your nozzle. I'm not sure I am on board with his explanation of TiO2. It is ~hard~. But it's also hard in comparison to every other nozzle material we use. Brass is a 3 on Mohs scale, TiO2 is 5.7. It's also massive, at about 4g/cc While PLA is more like 1.25g/cc and ABS is somewhere around 1g/cc. "White" needs a lot of pigment so we can perceive it as white. While something like carbon black might take a fraction of a percent to make a filament black, white might take a few percent.

I suspect a lot of other dyes might be as hard as TiO2, but are used in much, much smaller quantities.

In the Voron community, it's known that White prints .. poorly. Not that it wears out your printer.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

Deviant posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22p4ThOfEO0

Can anyone comment on this guy's assertion that white filament borks up printers?

I know it's harder to print due to the color additives.

I've never felt that white filament clogs more easily or causes damage to the nozzle. The white titanium dioxide pigment is basically atomized, and although there's a lot of it in the plastic, it's still nowhere near as much as say a 20% carbon composite.

As others have said, white filament just tends to print badly. In my experience the layers never look as nice. Also it gets dirty instantly after you touch it with your grubby hands.

The best "white" PLA filament that I know of is Prusa's Vanilla White, which is a slightly creamy off-white. It prints very nicely and looks great, if you can accept that it's not pure white.

Rockman Reserve
Oct 2, 2007

"Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"


I ordered a Saturn 2 to upgrade from my (currently still busted - going to fix it for a friend who wants to try SLA, hopefully) Mars 1 (second or third revision). Is there anything I should really know about it? How necessary is 8K resin? Anyone got a link to a flex plate they guarantee will fit nicely on a Saturn 2 build plate (I'm super wary of the dozens of fake-brand Amazon stuff unless I can get an actual recommendation for a specific listing).

e: i've already got the enclosure set up, it is in my childrens' playroom on their snack table and I vent the exhaust to the humidifier on my headboard in the bedroom

Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Nov 29, 2022

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Rockman Reserve posted:

I ordered a Saturn 2 to upgrade from my (currently still busted - going to fix it for a friend who wants to try SLA, hopefully) Mars 1 (second or third revision). Is there anything I should really know about it? How necessary is 8K resin? Anyone got a link to a flex plate they guarantee will fit nicely on a Saturn 2 build plate (I'm super wary of the dozens of fake-brand Amazon stuff unless I can get an actual recommendation for a specific listing).

e: i've already got the enclosure set up, it is in my childrens' playroom on their snack table and I vent the exhaust to the humidifier on my headboard in the bedroom

When I had my resin printers the WhamBam plates were awesome https://whambamsystems.com/fbs-for-resin

Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need

Cory Parsnipson
Nov 15, 2015
Re: white filament chat, does the additive and temperamental printing aspect apply to similar shades of filament? Like, marble colored or eggshell for instance?


:golfclap:

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Rockman Reserve posted:

I ordered a Saturn 2 to upgrade from my (currently still busted - going to fix it for a friend who wants to try SLA, hopefully) Mars 1 (second or third revision). Is there anything I should really know about it? How necessary is 8K resin? Anyone got a link to a flex plate they guarantee will fit nicely on a Saturn 2 build plate (I'm super wary of the dozens of fake-brand Amazon stuff unless I can get an actual recommendation for a specific listing).

e: i've already got the enclosure set up, it is in my childrens' playroom on their snack table and I vent the exhaust to the humidifier on my headboard in the bedroom

As mentioned, go with wham Bam for a flex plate. Im running 3 of them and they're great.

Also, buy a few screen protectors off Amazon, it'll save you screens in the long run

Also don't forget to put some resin in your humidifier so the whole house can know when you're 3d printing anime girl statues

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Rockman Reserve posted:

I ordered a Saturn 2 to upgrade from my (currently still busted - going to fix it for a friend who wants to try SLA, hopefully) Mars 1 (second or third revision). Is there anything I should really know about it? How necessary is 8K resin? Anyone got a link to a flex plate they guarantee will fit nicely on a Saturn 2 build plate (I'm super wary of the dozens of fake-brand Amazon stuff unless I can get an actual recommendation for a specific listing).

e: i've already got the enclosure set up, it is in my childrens' playroom on their snack table and I vent the exhaust to the humidifier on my headboard in the bedroom

I have a Saturn 2 and have printed about 25kg worth of stuff so far. I started with Elegoo 8k Space Grey and did that for 3 or 4kg and have done the last 20 or so in Anycubic Eco. I don't see any real noticeable difference myself, but I am not a printing expert. I will say that the 8K from Elegoo is very frothy and is a little harder to get just right. I think that the 8k Resin is a little more dense/opaque and therefore you can dial it in a little more precisely if you want to really get it exactly perfect. I would say you could go without it though, the stuff I have been buying is 22 a bottle compared to mid 30s for 8k. I have given out tons of gifts and prints and people have been amazed, and that is with the eco resin. For reference I am printing mostly Loot Studious miniatures in 75mm or Statue height. I have struggle to get good prints for 28/32mm size tabletop stuff from like Stationforge, but that might be because their supports are bad.

My glowforge arrives tomorrow and then I can start my business of selling pornagraphic gingerbread cookiepeople themed christmas ornaments. What a time to be alive.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Loving this CanBus setup. Printed a few replacement parts for the printer last night.





Mainly the exhaust grill in the back at the top(original was PLA and was looking like a Salvador Dali painting and some wire hiders for the back motors.

I need to be talked out of building a v0.1 or Salad Fork because while I seriously don't need one, I loved the whole building/tuning process of this.

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
Is my Ender 3 Neo gonna care about printing in a cold garage?

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

AlternateAccount posted:

Is my Ender 3 Neo gonna care about printing in a cold garage?

How cold? I've gotten away with printing PLA as low as 50 F and had okay results, but you're risking a lot of warping and bed adhesion issues once you're down at that point. It's not going to be quite as finicky as resin, but you do want to try to keep it somewhere around 60-ish at a minimum, and you don't want any drafts.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

AlternateAccount posted:

Is my Ender 3 Neo gonna care about printing in a cold garage?

Depends on the temperature and filament.

15 degrees (C) and PLA -- probably not.

-15 degrees and ABS -- certainly yes.

Consider getting an enclosure for it.

e: and yeah, as noted above, avoid drafts. Constant temperature is always better than variable.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

Doctor Zero posted:

Keep in mind that fumes while printing is the LEAST thing to be concerned with (because there are so many ways to mitigate that).

Resin is really loving messy. It splashes, drips, spills, leaks, etc etc. You also have to clean your parts, so where will you do that?? You get resin on anything that isn’t a hard surface and you’re done. Fini. It’s never coming out.

and “i’ll be careful” is NOT a mitigation strategy.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Just to be clear - dumping resin fumes out of your window so your neighbors can all breathe them in should their windows be open isn't cool either. You don't have a rated fume hood for filtering the chemicals out.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


H110Hawk posted:

Just to be clear - dumping resin fumes out of your window so your neighbors can all breathe them in should their windows be open isn't cool either. You don't have a rated fume hood for filtering the chemicals out.

lol nobody loving chemically scrubs their resin fumes

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BMan posted:

lol nobody loving chemically scrubs their resin fumes



No, but there is a difference between venting it up over a roof and dumping it next to your neighbors window in a dense apartment complex.

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

I think that's more a 'it's impolite to blast it right outside your neighbour's window so they get the smell in' than 'we should be scrubbing fumes yo'.
Which is completely valid, I know I hated living in an apartment complex where people sometimes smoked out of their windows and you could just feel the stench wafting up when they did if the window was open.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
It's kind of hilarious that the new G-Code processor, that was merged in a few releases ago, that's supposed to estimate print time more accurately by taking in account the machine limits like acceleration and such, and yet it's way more off than before. Today I again printed a small part that PS predicted to take 3h15m and it's done in 2h30m. And accelerations in the PS profile match what my printer's configured to.

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?
Anyone have any recommendations of fun customizable decorative or useful prints that I could maybe give as gifts to my coworkers for the holidays (as sort of a morale thing)? Something like coasters maybe? I ideally want it to be something nice enough to not be trashed immediately, I'll probably customize it with our teams logo or something.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Talorat posted:

Anyone have any recommendations of fun customizable decorative or useful prints that I could maybe give as gifts to my coworkers for the holidays (as sort of a morale thing)? Something like coasters maybe? I ideally want it to be something nice enough to not be trashed immediately, I'll probably customize it with our teams logo or something.

Phone / tablet stand. There are a ton of options on thingiverse, it's the kind of thing people tend to end up using but never buy for themselves. 3D printed ones are less useful now with modern wireless charging, though, especially magnetic wireless charging.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SubNat posted:

I think that's more a 'it's impolite to blast it right outside your neighbour's window so they get the smell in'

This one.

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Paradoxish posted:

How cold? I've gotten away with printing PLA as low as 50 F and had okay results, but you're risking a lot of warping and bed adhesion issues once you're down at that point. It's not going to be quite as finicky as resin, but you do want to try to keep it somewhere around 60-ish at a minimum, and you don't want any drafts.

Talking 30F today so maybe 40-45F in the garage. No drafts, really. Even a heated bed won’t really mitigate this?
I guess I can make it an enclosure and let the bed warm it up good before it kicks off.

Rockman Reserve
Oct 2, 2007

"Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"


AlternateAccount posted:

Talking 30F today so maybe 40-45F in the garage. No drafts, really. Even a heated bed won’t really mitigate this?
I guess I can make it an enclosure and let the bed warm it up good before it kicks off.

Let me tell you from experience that even if this works your electric bill will be loving astronomical.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

For some reason one of my flex plates has an INSANE amount of hold on the miniatures im printing. lowering the bottom exposure seems to just add to a higher failure rate though so I'm not really sure why...

Did sanding the plate makes things stick to well? Not really sure what the solution is here.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Rockman Reserve posted:

Let me tell you from experience that even if this works your electric bill will be loving astronomical.

This take always amuses me. ~worst case~ during warmup, you're drawing like 300 watts? There was a time, not so long ago, that "Just having the lights on in the living room" was 300watts. Your Playstation, Xbox, has a 500+ watt power supply.

General running of a printer is 10's of watts. worst case is gonna be 100-120watts. That's having ~a~ light bulb on.

Throw it in a tent? The power draw won't be appreciably different from sitting in a heated room.

Rockman Reserve
Oct 2, 2007

"Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"


:shrug: I’m not an electrician and I won’t claim to be one, all I know is that when I ran my FDM in my garage in the late fall/early winter in the US midwest my power bill was over a hundred bucks higher than when I put it in my basement two months later. I’m just one person, though, and that was a printer from six years ago that I eventually ran down into scrap, so I’m not saying my experience is definitive here. You’re right that an enclosure probably mitigates the issue almost entirely but I think you might be discounting what it takes to work against particularly low ambient temperatures for things that try to maintain a steady hot temp.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

A sheet of blue foam is like $25, you can but it down in the parking lot to fit it in your car, then glue it together with gorilla glue; all in is like $30 plus gas to the hardware store. There's enough material in the sheet you can build whatever size and shape box you'd like. Use duct tape for hinges for the door

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Rockman Reserve posted:

:shrug: I’m not an electrician and I won’t claim to be one, all I know is that when I ran my FDM in my garage in the late fall/early winter in the US midwest my power bill was over a hundred bucks higher than when I put it in my basement two months later. I’m just one person, though, and that was a printer from six years ago that I eventually ran down into scrap, so I’m not saying my experience is definitive here. You’re right that an enclosure probably mitigates the issue almost entirely but I think you might be discounting what it takes to work against particularly low ambient temperatures for things that try to maintain a steady hot temp.

It is physically impossible for a normal sized 3D printer to use 100 dollars of electricity in a month

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

300w @ $0.25/kwh would be about $1.80/day, 30 days would be $54.00 even

Most states power is like $0.09 to $0.17 although california it can reach $0.25 if you go over a certain limit

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