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Super-NintendoUser posted:I'm looking to get some new kitchen cabinents. Nothing super crazy, but I'd like to get solid wood cabinets, instead of particle board builders grade, and I'm OK with painting and installing it all myself. I have a small kitchen, and I only need standard sizes, nothing super custom. Is there a goon recommendation on where I can pick them up? I bought a bunch of stuff from cabinets.com, and it all seems to be good quality.
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Dec 1, 2022 00:59
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 13:17 |
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Stupid question: Bought some cheap picture frames to hang some pictures. Went to hang them and discovered they had this stupid-rear end design with 2 hangers, instead of one in the middle. After much planning and measuring to ensure that the wall-side nails are level and spaced properly, turns out the teeth on the back aren't level to the frame, so the whole goddamn thing is crooked. Is this common? I don't think I've ever seen this setup before. Is there a trick to hanging these properly, or do I just say gently caress it and run a wire between the hangers?
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Dec 1, 2022 15:43
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DaveSauce posted:Bought some cheap picture frames to hang some pictures. I don't know what else you've been buying lately but it's been pretty obvious to me that the chabuduo coming out of chinese manufacturing has been increasing rapidly since covid. This is 100% the kind of poo poo I'm not the slightest bit surprised to find anymore.
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Dec 1, 2022 15:47
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The wildest thing is I can see why they thought it was a good idea... make it level the first time, and it'll never be crooked again! But gently caress, I feel like I need some metrology grade equipment to mount this drat thing properly. And the worst part is this costs MORE to manufacture in a way that makes it less usable. Pennies I'm sure, but that adds up for poo poo you sell at Target en masse.
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Dec 1, 2022 15:59
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DaveSauce posted:Stupid question: Use tracing paper. Lay your frame face down on the table. Cut out a piece of tracing paper the same size and shape as it. Square it off to the frame. Mark with a pencil/sharpie the actual location of the hangars. Double check. Tape the paper to the wall using a level on the paper itself to get it level. Double check. Hammer the hangars straight through the paper. Hang your frame. Look good? Tear the paper off the wall.
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Dec 1, 2022 16:22
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That’s a pretty common (but yes lovely) setup for a cheap frame. If they’re light 3m has command strips that are like Velcro strips and you actually remove the mounting hardware from the frame and you could have some wiggle room to adjust.
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Dec 1, 2022 18:23
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I would absolutely just run a little wire between the two thingies and hang it from that. Unless it's really too heavy but I doubt it is. I have picture wire around so that'd be the fastest option for me 2nd fastest would be to glue a third one in the middle, or use a command strip.
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Dec 1, 2022 18:30
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Hell I'd go a step further for cheap light stuff. Put nail in wall. Hang picture by resting middle of frame directly on nail. Drink beer.
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Dec 1, 2022 18:48
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Leperflesh posted:I would absolutely just run a little wire between the two thingies and hang it from that. Unless it's really too heavy but I doubt it is. I have picture wire around so that'd be the fastest option for me This is what I do as well.
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Dec 1, 2022 22:42
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I need to replace a bathroom exhaust fan. I'm going to get a panasonic and the few videos i've watched don't show the other side of the bracket being screwed into the opposite side joist. One guy even explicitly said he doesn't and the drywall is enough to support it with the bracket simply extended. Obviously this isn't best practice but is it common to only screw in one side? I've never done this before so I'm assuming its difficult coming from below and if no one else is stressed about the other side I guess I won't be either?
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Dec 2, 2022 02:21
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What you’re probably going to want to look for is a fan that can be explicitly installed as a retrofit. It’s been a few years but I did a Panasonic that was designed as a retrofit and I think it had me install with one side of the box screwed into a joist and a lip that screwed into the living space side of the ceiling drywall on all/most of the other sides of the box, later to be covered up by the outer cover. This kind of install probably only works if the fan you’re installing is bigger than the one it’s replacing because fan sizes aren’t universal in my experience.
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Dec 2, 2022 03:06
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BonoMan posted:Put nail in wall. Hang picture by resting middle of frame directly on nail. This is how everything is hanging on my walls except for the one ton West Elm mirror in the living room that I lucky hung level on the first try because there was no way I had a second chance with it.
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Dec 2, 2022 06:39
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In an earlier post I'd complained of ants in the tub, which was accurately sourced to the leaking water around the bath enclosure. So I re-caulked it. Then, a few months later, I re-caulked it again. Now the seal is broken all the way around again and I'm starting to get a little irritated. No ants, because it's cold, but it's just a matter of time. The problem seems to be the tub settling from our weight when we take showers, which splits the caulk. Last time I tried filling the tub with water after I sealed everything, hoping the additional weight would allow the caulk (well, actually I tried Flex-Seal that time) to dry with the tub already weighed down, but I think it's just moving too much. I have a new tube of silicone caulk and a tool. I honestly think the whole shebang needs ripped out and replaced, probably along with parts of the supporting woodwork, but that's not in the budget. Part of the problem is I really have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to caulking, it seems like it should be a relatively simple thing, albeit with a lot of skill potential, but I'm just flailing at it. I appreciate any advice, thanks!
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Dec 2, 2022 17:01
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I'm not pro, but I think silicones are just not very flexible. Typically ideal for wet areas, seems like you might want to accept something slightly worse in that regard, but way more flexible.
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Dec 2, 2022 17:13
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erosion posted:
Fill it with water THEN seal with caulk. Sounds like you did it backwards before, so it still had a but of time to cure before the additional weight was in the tub. Also, how big is the gap? If it's more than...1/4" (or maybe just 1/8"?) you might need a backer rod in there cause it's too big a gap just for silicone.
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Dec 2, 2022 19:05
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Guessing this is a fiberglass tub and if that’s the case I bet the installer didn’t bother to use a bed of mortar for support underneath which is causing your issue. If there’s a way to make a hole into the void under your tub between the tub and subfloor without making a hole in the tub itself or any of the tub surround then you could drill an appropriate sized hole and try to use like 2 cans of spray foam under there and that may solve your problem. This is a medium to advanced DIY approach and some understanding of how tubs are installed is necessary so you don’t end up drilling a big ole hole in that tub.
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Dec 2, 2022 19:28
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erosion posted:In an earlier post I'd complained of ants in the tub... Um. A properly installed tub on a solidly-built base will not move. Check the floor framing under the tub - if you can. You can't really check the studs without opening the wall, but if you're getting ants, they're eating something, and that something may be the framing or subfloor. Caulking, like paint, is 95% prep. Strip off the old caulk. Make sure every bit of it is gone. New razor blades are excellent for this; you'll use several. Clean the area with a degreasing cleaner and follow with liberal amounts of isopropyl alcohol. Let dry thoroughly. THEN apply caulk in a continuous bead.
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Dec 2, 2022 23:42
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So, it turns out that the previous owners of my house did not actually seal the garage floor. Rather, they used paint meant for a wooden deck, or maybe concrete steps. It holds up about as well as you'd expect under car tires. Especially because they didn't even paint the deck properly with this paint, much less the surface it wasn't meant for. Wife and I are trying to remove it before we apply a proper seal (probably once it's warm again), and while the paint does sometimes peel up in nice chunks, mostly we've been slowly peeling up little bits. Some parts of it are quite resistant to being scraped away. Is there an easier way to go about this? I realize there are harsh chemical solvents for paint. If we have to use them, we will, but I'd rather not if it's avoidable. Here's a sampling of how lovely the floor currently looks, along with the paint they used.
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Dec 3, 2022 15:22
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Floor sander would probably resolve that's
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Dec 3, 2022 15:29
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If you happen to have a floor buffer with a scouring pad, should work pretty well. (Kind of an odd thing to have around though...)
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Dec 3, 2022 15:55
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Not the cheap option but pay someone to diamond grind the floor. That'll remove the coating and properly profile the concrete for a new coating in one step. If that concrete feels any smoother than 120-grit sandpaper and water doesn't easily soak into it then it's too smooth and tight to be properly coated and even if you get all that paint up you're left having to grind or etch it.
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Dec 3, 2022 16:18
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Final Blog Entry posted:Not the cheap option but pay someone to diamond grind the floor. That'll remove the coating and properly profile the concrete for a new coating in one step I don't see how that's not the cheap option - it's what I was going to suggest. Any prep that is going to eliminate this exact situation in the future (regardless of material choice) is going to require that level of surface prep, potentially even more depending on what they find under there while prepping. I wouldn't even bother taking up the paint other than loose annoying chunks until I was ready to prep for re-coating. You have to re-coat immediately after that prep so there's just no point in bothering with this right now.
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Dec 3, 2022 17:02
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If you just want to knock big chunks up without getting on your hands and knees a stand up tile scraper or similar would probably work. You might even find one for free on a buy nothing style group on facedoor. But you're going to want to surface prep it regardless.
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Dec 3, 2022 18:50
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Thanks for all the advice! Even though we aren't sealing the floor until the spring, we want to get as much of this of paint off as possible for now because moisture is trapped underneath it. And we have a garage gym with big rubber horse stall mats, so we don't want to be putting the mats on top of the trapped moisture. (We'll have to move all our gym stuff out of the way to redo the floor, so that'll be tons of fun, but what can you do.)
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Dec 3, 2022 19:03
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Do you have lots of moisture vapor coming up through the concrete? If so you may have too much hydrostatic pressure to have much success with any kind of coating, regardless of prep or product used. Something heavy like an epoxy or paint will be less forgiving with moisture vapor than something like a thin clear sealer or urethane that's more breathable. You can cut some squares of clear visqueen and tape them down to the bare concrete around all four sides to see if you get a lot of condensation building up under it.
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Dec 3, 2022 19:20
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Final Blog Entry posted:You can cut some squares of clear visqueen and tape them down to the bare concrete around all four sides to see if you get a lot of condensation building up under it. And if you do absolutely nothing will seal it for long. You need to do water remediation first. Likely gutter extensions and/or grading.
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Dec 3, 2022 19:33
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Final Blog Entry posted:Do you have lots of moisture vapor coming up through the concrete? If so you may have too much hydrostatic pressure to have much success with any kind of coating, regardless of prep or product used. Something heavy like an epoxy or paint will be less forgiving with moisture vapor than something like a thin clear sealer or urethane that's more breathable. You can cut some squares of clear visqueen and tape them down to the bare concrete around all four sides to see if you get a lot of condensation building up under it. In any case, I’ll give your suggestion a shot. Thanks! Motronic posted:And if you do absolutely nothing will seal it for long. You need to do water remediation first. Likely gutter extensions and/or grading.
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Dec 3, 2022 19:42
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Final Blog Entry posted:Do you have lots of moisture vapor coming up through the concrete? If so you may have too much hydrostatic pressure to have much success with any kind of coating, regardless of prep or product used. Something heavy like an epoxy or paint will be less forgiving with moisture vapor than something like a thin clear sealer or urethane that's more breathable. You can cut some squares of clear visqueen and tape them down to the bare concrete around all four sides to see if you get a lot of condensation building up under it. This is not true. Urethanes are often used as waterproofing (beads to seal joints, injection to waterproof cracks and positive sides of below grade walls) and products to seal slabs to reduce moisture vapor transmission are all epoxies. I wouldn't use a urethane unless you read the TDS and it says it's fine as a coating for however much moisture is coming through your slab. I'd imagine they'd easily blister and fail in the wrong conditions. If you have a moisture vapor transmission problem, you should install something like Koster VAP 2000. Testing for moisture vapor transmission is cheap. Buy a dome test on Amazon for like $15. E: as someone said above, make sure you property prepare the garage slab floor. Usually coatings like this need a CSP 3 or rougher profile. Shotblasting is what we do to prepare slabs for stuff like this. I bet you could rent one at an equipment rental place and rough up your slab in an afternoon. Xenix fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Dec 3, 2022 |
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Dec 3, 2022 19:43
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Yeah I should really know better than to throw around epoxy and urethane as general terms since both include a whole lot of very different products. I should have said that your typical garage floor ciatings like the box store diy epoxy kits or polyaspartics aren't very breathable. You made the point much better than I did, which is any coating will have its limitations with vapor pressure and unless you know what kind of psi a product can handle and what you're dealing with on the floor you might have a problem.
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Dec 3, 2022 20:08
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Xenix is also talking about/has access to pro products. This is not LowesDepot poo poo, which is what I was referring to when I said none of it is going to stick.
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Dec 3, 2022 20:39
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Speaking of condensation, all my window sills get soaked when it’s cold outside, what can I do about that? No leaks anywhere or anything, it all just drips down from the windows
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Dec 3, 2022 23:32
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Opopanax posted:Speaking of condensation, all my window sills get soaked when it’s cold outside, what can I do about that? No leaks anywhere or anything, it all just drips down from the windows So you have radiators or baseboard hot water heat? Yeah, that's how it works after things are actually sealed up. You need multiple dehumidifiers.
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Dec 3, 2022 23:58
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Xenix posted:If you have a moisture vapor transmission problem, you should install something like Koster VAP 2000. Testing for moisture vapor transmission is cheap. Buy a dome test on Amazon for like $15.
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Dec 4, 2022 01:24
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Motronic posted:So you have radiators or baseboard hot water heat? Yeah, that's how it works after things are actually sealed up. You need multiple dehumidifiers. Nope central heating, but I guess dehumidifiers are the obvious solution anyways
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Dec 4, 2022 01:29
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Zugzwang posted:I live in a pretty humid place. To ensure the dome test is measuring moisture coming through the slab and not from the air, would cranking a dehumidifier gently caress up the test?
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Dec 4, 2022 02:22
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Zugzwang posted:I live in a pretty humid place. To ensure the dome test is measuring moisture coming through the slab and not from the air, would cranking a dehumidifier gently caress up the test? These are the instructions for the test kits we use: http://vaprecision.wpenginepowered.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Anhydrous_Calcium_Chloride_Kit_Instructions.pdf. Looks like you want the temp to be 65-85° F and RH to be 40-60%. I watch my company's crews install VAP and epoxy coatings occasionally and have a home cheapo coating on my garage floor from the previous owner, and it really annoys me how easy it flakes up. I am so tempted to shotblast my garage and recoat it but 
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Dec 4, 2022 03:46
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Slugworth posted:Kinda sorta. A dehu will pull moisture out of concrete, although admittedly without a lot of air movement, it shouldn't do so especially quickly. Still, it's a variable that makes your test results a little more uncertain. Xenix posted:These are the instructions for the test kits we use: http://vaprecision.wpenginepowered.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Anhydrous_Calcium_Chloride_Kit_Instructions.pdf. Looks like you want the temp to be 65-85° F and RH to be 40-60%.
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Dec 4, 2022 07:55
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I have mice in my house and after having a company quote me $6000 to seal up my house against future rodents (the most expensive part of their plan was to use a sealant along the bottom of all of the siding, any corners, etc) I think I'm just gonna pick up a few cans of Great Stuff and at least seal up the obvious places (utility ingress, cracks around the side door in the garage, a couple spots where the builders did a lovely job cutting the siding around obstacles where it looks like the mice chewed on the siding to make it easier to get in). Is this a reasonable response or is this one of those things where splashing out the cash really is the correct move (I could afford to pay the $6k but I'm trying to be less terrible with money)? Can spray foam cure when the high temperature this week is 40F/4C? Anything in particular I need to think about when painting over the cured spray foam (for UV protection)?
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Dec 5, 2022 04:54
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Rodents will chew through spray foam. I don't know much about rodent remediation, but I know that much. I think you can embed a wire mesh in the foam to act as a greater deterrent?
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Dec 5, 2022 05:00
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 13:17 |
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Six thousand bucks will re-home a lot of cats, and get you a truckload of mouse traps & poisons of every stripe. My (now deceased) mother’s home (in a Philadelphia suburb) was infested in mice when she was in the grips of undiagnosed dementia. I called a pest control company, who didn’t seem overly interested in taking the job, and thus explained that they would charge to try & locate where they were gaining easy access, and spread something all over the place that the mice would eat & then die somewhere else. So my sister & I put this food bait all over, and I sealed a broken basement window. They were gone within six months. My house in NJ probably has mice in the walls in the winter. Never see any sign of them. I have six cats. To find where they’re likely to be coming in, you want to look for streaks of sebum (body oil & dirt - looks like poo poo streaks) around likely cracks, holes or openings, one-half inch or larger, to the outdoors.
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Dec 5, 2022 05:24
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