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Fifthing. You can always change it back. It’d be great to get a spare, preferably a cheap knockoff, drill down at the eyes, and install red filament LEDs. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 14:30
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PainterofCrap posted:Fifthing. You can always change it back. I wonder if it's up on any 3d printing sites?
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Sep 16, 2022 15:18
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Cyrano4747 posted:gently caress yes get the hood ornament. PainterofCrap posted:Fifthing. You can always change it back. Both of these.
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Sep 17, 2022 03:14
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Cyrano4747 posted:gently caress yes get the hood ornament. like, the question isn't whether to get one; It's whether to get a spare in case something happens to it.
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Sep 19, 2022 03:56
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Ok I have been convinced. It is on it's way over from germany Ran across this just now for... $6,000? It's like a disney land reproduction of the real thing, scaled down and electric drive train https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/OEM-Pizza-Coffee-Snack-Cart-Mobile_1600492040266.html  On the top is what appears to be a genuine Citroen H Van, on the bottom is... a stainless steel and fiberglass 70% scale copy? And it's electric. The original H Van was made 1947-1981 and was kind of famous for being extra easy to convert into a food truck since it had a flat floor and 6' standing head room (back when 5'10" was still considered tall), but relates to this thread because it shares the same drivetrain with the Traction Avant and DS (+ evolutions) Put another quart of oil in the engine. The odometer appears to be still working, need to double check but I think I'm at ~1500 km since purchase, which means I am burning... about a quart of oil every 350 miles? I think if I put 1000 miles a year on the car, $27/yr for oil is way, way cheaper than redoing the piston rings and I have no catalytic converter to gently caress up. Need to do a compression test at some point. Found out a couple months ago there's a starter button in the engine compartment, that makes this extraordinarily easy to do solo. Of course if you troll internet bmw forums there are lots of people complaining their (11:1, turbo) bmw are burning a quart or more every 1000 miles, so uh, I should be happy my uh, naturally aspirated 6.5:1 engine is only burning 3 quarts in the same distance. Maybe I should stop using 5w-30? Actual content. It is getting dark now that fall has arrived. Headlights have this neat pattern.  At least one license plate light exists/is working. Will need to investigate to see if there is a second, and replace it, right side is dark. Women have started coming up to me at bars now. "Are you 'Ooh La La'? I saw your car in the parking lot, that's amazing".  Desperately need to check the transmission oil level, soon. Nipple servicing might happen next weekend, will post all the  nipple photosEDIT: ALSO, ran into a mechanic that actually worked at the now-defunct Citroen dealership in Raleigh, NC back in the 1970s. He was working in the garage across the street to where I was fueling up and walked over to shake my hand, said "there was a traction in the back against the fence, but was rusted out and never moved. This is the first Traction I've ever seen moving under it's own power." He worked on a lot of DS and... I forget the one after that, the CX? He said won motor trend car of the year three years in a row? I guess his dealership got eaten by the IRS and turned into a saab/citroen/subaru repair shop "since they already had all the specialized tools". Might take the car there to get a compression check. Seems like he would take good care of the car. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Oct 3, 2022 |
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Oct 3, 2022 03:08
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Don't lie to us, we know cars don't attract women. They only attract car guys and old mechanics. Also I think I agree with you that he'd take good care of the car but also I need to acknowledge the red flag of him saying he's never seen one move.
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Oct 3, 2022 04:05
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Hadlock posted:Put another quart of oil in the engine. The odometer appears to be still working, need to double check but I think I'm at ~1500 km since purchase, which means I am burning... about a quart of oil every 350 miles? I think if I put 1000 miles a year on the car, $27/yr for oil is way, way cheaper than redoing the piston rings and I have no catalytic converter to gently caress up. Need to do a compression test at some point. Found out a couple months ago there's a starter button in the engine compartment, that makes this extraordinarily easy to do solo. Of course if you troll internet bmw forums there are lots of people complaining their (11:1, turbo) bmw are burning a quart or more every 1000 miles, so uh, I should be happy my uh, naturally aspirated 6.5:1 engine is only burning 3 quarts in the same distance. Maybe I should stop using 5w-30? I honestly wouldn't be surprised if that was considered typical oil consumption when the car was new.
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Oct 3, 2022 18:11
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Sorry if I missed the reason earlier, but why are you using 5w-30? It probably used a straight-weight oil (30?) when new; Consider using that, or 10w-30. Also, check your oil pressure & see if it’s within spec
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Oct 3, 2022 19:28
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PainterofCrap posted:Sorry if I missed the reason earlier, but why are you using 5w-30? It probably used a straight-weight oil (30?) when new; Consider using that, or 10w-30. Yeah, that was back in the days when you changed oil twice a year. SAE 30 in the summer, SAE 20 in the winter. According to http://www.ctaservice.se/tek/tekinfo-engl.htm,  So 15w-40 if you're going to use a multi-vis.
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Oct 3, 2022 20:09
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Thicker oil might help with consumption as well.
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Oct 3, 2022 20:19
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I think I'm the odd one out here but I wouldn't hesitate to use a modern multigrade oil instead of a straight-weight SAE oil specified from an era when multigrade didn't exist. When they're hot, Xw30 and SAE30 should be the exact same thickness. Xw30 is only thinner when it's cooler, mostly because cold SAE30 should be quite thick. I might run 10w30 or 15w40 instead of 5w30, though.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:00
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Thanks for that diagram. I had run across it before it arrived but lost it, I think that's how I ended up getting the oil I did on the drive down, trying to roughly match it. Maybe because it was late spring, or I was way the gently caress out in the country but couldn't really find any heavy oil at the autozone I stopped at during my first vacuum lock issue driving it down from DC, the only stuff I found was this ludicrous 20w-50 racecar oil. Probably if there was a tractor supply co I would have found what I was looking for. Since then I've just been grabbing a pint at the generic corporate minimart gas station as needed. They just have 5w-30 pennzoil. Due to the piano hinge hood there are clearance issues getting oil in the filler with a larger bottle without a funnel. Should probably order a 5 pint bottle of 15w40 and see how that works. It gets cold (upper 20s/low 30s, with a couple hours ovenight once a year of 15-19F) here for a couple weeks in the deep winter, but I won't be starting or driving the car then. There's no heater block in the cabin so driving it below 40F is highly unlikely The horrific swarms of mosquitoes in the back yard/barn have finally gone dormant with fall weather arriving, so I can finally tackle some of these diagnostic issues without being bitten so much I need an antihistamine after IOwnCalculus posted:I honestly wouldn't be surprised if that was considered typical oil consumption when the car was new. Yeah. It's worth noting the car has a factory oil can holder, so I suspect oil consumption was quite high even from the factory. This particular can holds 3L (2,5L maybe? i forget) , is metal, french writing, quite old by the looks of it and doesn't leak miraculously. Afraid to use it for regular duty though. 
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Oct 3, 2022 21:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think I'm the odd one out here but I wouldn't hesitate to use a modern multigrade oil instead of a straight-weight SAE oil specified from an era when multigrade didn't exist. When they're hot, Xw30 and SAE30 should be the exact same thickness. Xw30 is only thinner when it's cooler, mostly because cold SAE30 should be quite thick. I'm with you on this. I'd run a diesel branded oil 10w30 or like 15w40. For the extra additives. Maybe I'm just another idiot on the internet though that thinks older motors benefit from thicker zinc heavy oil.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:57
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The white H Van is definitely a real one. You can see a dutch number plate in the picture, and i am absolutely certain that it wouldn't be possible to get the China van on a dutch plate. I'm all for electric reproduction H vans but i wish they actually had pictures of their product. Edit: found the actual ones in a low res video of that company:   It's the Uncanny Valley H Van. It feels a bit off. Probably completely convincing to someone who hasn't actually seen a real one in their life. Not bad for 6-7000 dollar. Notice that a lot of those vehicles in the video are jacked up. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Oct 4, 2022 |
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Oct 4, 2022 19:16
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LimaBiker posted:The white H Van is definitely a real one. You can see a dutch number plate in the picture, and i am absolutely certain that it wouldn't be possible to get the China van on a dutch plate. I found a cheaper one. 
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Oct 4, 2022 22:46
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Hadlock posted:Thanks for that diagram. I had run across it before it arrived but lost it, I think that's how I ended up getting the oil I did on the drive down, trying to roughly match it. 20w50 is a standard oil grade for old poo poo over here in the UK (pretty much anything pre 1970's or thereabouts). 20w50 mineral oil is easily available from dedicated motorfactors or ebay and costs about the same as a 5w30 semi/fully synth per litre. I'd be using that.
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Oct 5, 2022 00:24
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Tomarse posted:20w50 is a standard oil grade for old poo poo over here in the UK (pretty much anything pre 1970's or thereabouts). Yep, I used to buy this by the bucketful: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/engine-oil/halfords-classic-oil-20w50-5l-537977.html
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Oct 5, 2022 14:21
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Hadlock posted:This car has a history. All cars come with stories, this one actually had a book written about it. It was reviewed in an Anthropology journal: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/322372898_Crossing_the_Loange_Congo_Pax_Service_and_the_Journey_Home_-_A_Book_Review. There's a free copy of the book online somewhere but I can't find it right now. The physical book is ~250 pages with ~100+ color photos and hundreds of his letters written home, kept by his mom. Here is the online version of the book, if anyone is curious https://issuu.com/mennonitepressinc./docs/crossing_the_loange Edit: it's abridged down to  but gives you an idea at least
Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Oct 7, 2022 |
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Oct 7, 2022 22:20
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The book states he did 1400kms on one quart…in 1959.
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Oct 12, 2022 21:41
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Well I had a big post ready to go but it got eaten Car running well. Almost too well Waiting on hood ornament Wonder if oil consumption is blow by? I drive around in 3rd (top) gear at 40kmh which I think is 20mph, trying to accelerate might be causing oil consumption problems? For complicated reasons I had to babysit my cat and toddler today for like 8 hours in the Traction, please enjoy these photos     
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Nov 2, 2022 02:24
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The finish on that almost 70 year old car is jaw dropping.
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Nov 2, 2022 02:29
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It got a respray, maybe, sometime in the 1980s, and the guy who redid all the seals, I'm pretty sure he did a full buff job on it December 2021, and then I did a paste wax job on it like, first week of October probably But yeah it's so shiny it's hard to tell what the underlying paint color is 
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Nov 2, 2022 02:37
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It's insanely shiny. What's normal oil consumption vs what are you getting? I'd imagine something that old would have add oil every tank as normal maintenance.
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Nov 2, 2022 02:50
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Blow-by will show up at wherever the oil breather is, and/or at the oil fill cap. It's how I knew my 389 had to be rebuilt.
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Nov 2, 2022 02:59
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Ok yeah I didn't think that through. Yeah I looked it up it's definitely not blow by. 1400km is about 850 miles so my oil consumption is about double what it was at new probably not going to worry about it then. I'll switch to thicker zinc oil for my next go around I do have a weird rattle of some sort, like the mechanical fan isn't balanced correctly and above ~2500 rpm (my boat has a 3 cylinder diesel that redlines at 3600 and a tach,so doing this by ear) begins to make extra noise kind of a general hollow rattle tapping at about, uh 400hz? 250hz maybe. At least twice a second and follows engine rpm. No rattle below ~2000rpm and certainly not at idle. Makes holding high rpm annoying but not (yet) worrying I checked I do have a second license plate lightbulb so I'll have to clean that contract it's lit up but very dim for some reason E brake actually works, building confidence in using it but still depend on putting it in reverse. As was mentioned up thread it engages the rear wheels I didn't fully disable it and was squeaking at me until I pushed it in all the way. It's this huge massive polished chrome cane, easily 24 inches long, it's possibly the fanciest looking thing in the cabin but you'd never know it's there unless you bumped your knee into it Probably need to put air in the tires it's been 7 months now I still haven't registered the car, I still haven't transferred my license to this state and that's required to register a car here, according to their website; cops either don't recognize that it's a euro novelty plate or just assume it's legally registered. I get special treatment all the time from them I guess this car just doesn't fit in the mental box of cars they're looking to pull over or inspect. Rolling white privilege Parked in downtown to burn some time this evening never ceases to amaze me people just walk up and start talking to me about the car. One guy came up today "just want to say I'm really impressed you've figured it out, got your classic car your daughter with you, even have a car seat for her!" another guy sat there and just soaked up every detail I had about it and was googling how much they cost etc. Edit another guy speed matched me rolled down his window and from the back seat made a semi serious offer to buy it from me. In another part of town a guy asked me from the sidewalk if the car was a prop for a movie they're filming nearby Getting dark now headlights are still wink-Wonk but the pattern in the other photo looks like they're perfectly aligned? I wonder if I have one of the bulbs' sockets installed 180 degrees or something so my dip beam is really pointing into space Instrument cluster bulb is probably out, I really hate crawling around behind the dash I'm not a big guy but the ergonomic of crawling around in the foot well sucks, even with the suicide doors. I think you can unbolt the whole dashboard, maybe? The horn still isn't working, and I need to find out what's wrong with the blinker mechanism. Blinker switch is this weird three position knob with the center (down) as neutral. It's completely broken and I think I have the replacement in a box, as well as a replacement relay. No idea how the dashboard comes out, might kick that can down the road another couple months. Would really like to get the horn working, lots of people waving at me, would like to friendly honk back at them Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Nov 2, 2022 |
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Nov 2, 2022 08:38
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Hadlock posted:40kmh which I think is 20mph, It's 25, 1 mile is 1.6 km
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Nov 2, 2022 08:43
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Invented an excuse to go for a lap around the neighborhood, stopped off at the local photoshoot spot and ran into a guy doing glamour shots of a 300zx 
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Nov 28, 2022 23:43
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Looks fabulous in the long light. How's she running?
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Nov 29, 2022 01:09
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Running alarmingly well. Hasn't given me an excuse to really dig around and find anything horrific, not that there's much to go wrong on a recently serviced garage queen. Kind of boring actually. It still comes out every week or so on the regular. We don't drive much except to the grocery store. Probably getting ready to do an oil change, now that the mosquitoes have mostly died off and it's not miserable outside. Apparently this was the first year of the 11d engine, which means it was also the launch engine for the DS and has an oil filter, where I don't know. When I do that, maybe that's a good time to remove the other plug and install the optional oil pressure-sender that's supposed to go there. And grease all those nipples. My wife had some friends in town and we took a ride a couple neighborhoods over with my daughter, which meant we had 4 full size americans and a toddler in the car. The car rode completely different with an extra ~700 lbs in the car. Acceleration didn't feel that much different, but the engine and transmission felt... better, somehow? More powerful almost? Not sure maybe because the carb was pouring more fuel into the engine at lower revs or something. I suspect there's more tuning to be done on the carb (I haven't done any). Also, the ride was super, super smooth with four adults and a passenger in there. Even with two adults and a toddler the car still feels a bit light, like driving an unloaded tractor on the road. Loaded up the car just feels way better. Vapor lock problems haven't come back since the dog days of summer went by. I do have some issue occasionally still, if I'm not paying attention and goose the throttle and let out on the clutch to take off when the light turns green, the engine will bog down for about two seconds, then recover. Also the engine will stumble a bit if I mash on the throttle after idling/coasting down a slight downhill (pretty common for me as first doesn't have a syncro, so I try and coast to a red light and accelerate when it changes, rather than coming to a stop). Not sure if this is a quirk of mechanically pumped carburated engines or maybe I have a minor leak somewhere, or my fuel pressure is too low or what. My wife's friends reported that there's a "fuel smell" in the car, I do know if you overfill the gas tank, it'll dump through... some breather valve, near the rear wheels? None of the fuel tank system seems like the kind to meet modern CA vapor standards, and I just kind of assumed all carburated cars have an "old, slightly gassy" smell to them but maybe it's actually a problem. Last time I looked under the car everything looked to be in good condition with no corrosion or recently replaced. Neither of them have been in anything older than a 2010 toyota corolla since probably 2010 so not sure how reliable they are. Wife seems unconcerned. Oil still showing topped off but havent put more than 50 miles on it since then so no surprise there. The passenger sun visor appears to be... a piece of factory original cardboard or fiberboard, rimmed in delicate aluminum... C channel stuff, has come off slightly bending away where it meets itself again and started vibrating. Thinking a dab of CA glue will solve that? Don't want to disassemble the aluminum and re-bend it as I doubt it'll go back on in better shape than it is now
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Nov 29, 2022 08:27
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Hadlock posted:Probably getting ready to do an oil change, now that the mosquitoes have mostly died off and it's not miserable outside. Apparently this was the first year of the 11d engine, which means it was also the launch engine for the DS and has an oil filter, where I don't know. When I do that, maybe that's a good time to remove the other plug and install the optional oil pressure-sender that's supposed to go there. And grease all those nipples. If it's like an early DS the filter element sits inside the sump. There's a circular plate in the sump which you unbolt, then behind that there's a dome-shaped cover held on by one big screw, and that holds that dome, the strainer and the filter element up inside the pump/filter assembly. The strainer has to go back in at a certain orientation, but there are triangular marks on the strainer cover and the sump which you line up to get it right.
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Nov 29, 2022 14:49
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 I keep forgetting I have what's effectively a v1.0.0 DS engine The internet is great at info on cars going back to ~1960 but the TA is just old enough to be on the wrong side of the boomer line, so there's basically zero info on traction avants on the internet. There is comparatively infinite data on the DS though Found out that by joining the UK traction avant club I get access to like 40 years of club magazines and their tech forums which ought to be useful  This looks like the ticket. I was looking for a domestic style screw on filter because I'm hopelessly American
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Nov 30, 2022 02:05
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Hadlock posted:
Single greatest resource out there for us old-car guys are forums. Just a wellfont of great data.
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Nov 30, 2022 02:45
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Hadlock posted:Found out that by joining the UK traction avant club I get access to like 40 years of club magazines and their tech forums which ought to be useful The Traction Owners' Club is great - I've never been lucky enough to own a TA but when I've had to write about them or source one for a magazine feature they've always been really helpful and as a Club they're sitting on a huge amount of knowledge and experience which, crucially, they've actually collated and are happy to share. The 2CV Club is the same - as a member you can buy the Club Handbook which for £15 gets you the result of 50 years' knowledge on How To Be A 2CV Owner. Hadlock posted:This looks like the ticket. I was looking for a domestic style screw on filter because I'm hopelessly American The key to running French classic cars is not to beat yourself up about being hopelessly American, but to make peace with the fact that you are insufficiently French  Since that seemed to be one of the main purposes of the French car industry's export drive between 1945 and 1985 - to present the superiority of the French way of life in front of the rest of the world. I've never come across another car, from any country, with a proper oil filter with a replaceable element mounted inside the sump. Early 2CVs have a washable strainer and Fiat 500s have the strange centrifugal 'grease trap' thing, but only the French (and, really, only Citroen) would put a complex multi-stage replaceable filtration system in the sump behind a bolt-down cover.
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Nov 30, 2022 13:19
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So has to pick up the wife from the airport, thought this would be a good chance to really get the engine warmed up and take the back roads to the terminal. Turns out if you remove the full size spare, there's plenty of room in the trunk for a maximum size checked luggage bag in the trunk! Stopped off for tacos. Not sure why they have a statue of a donkey on a K car pickup, but there's precious few photo ops in this town:  Picked up wife and returned to base with no issue. On the way back I was playing with throttle input. Usually I'm really light on the throttle, but today the engine felt low on power so I was goosing it fully warmed up. 1) new... Intake? noise when going to half or three quarter throttle. This would imply something on the carb is opening up 2) a lot (well, more than none, it shows up when headlights behind me shine through it) of gray-white smoke comes out, seems to roughly respond to through input 3) without inhaling too much exhaust fumes confirmed the exhaust when fully warmed up, exhaust definitely has notes of fresh gas I'm guessing that either (and I'm not a carb expert) 1) the carb is way too rich because A) the guy didn't know how to adjust it correctly B) he knows how to adjust it correctly but the engine is so old he's got it super rich so it runs ok 2) some kind of fuel pressure regulator (if they used them that early on?) issue? Carb is either a solex 32 pbic or a zenith clone, which I guess were also used on the Porsche 356? I've never tuned a carburetor before and everything I've read says "if it runs and nothing is horribly wrong DON'T TOUCH IT" so that's kind of where I'm at I suspect if I lean it out a bit I'll recover at least 5 horsepower? 10%? I should probably befriend a local car guy and see what they say
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Dec 1, 2022 23:05
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No offense but you've been waffling on about tuning that carb for months. Get after it.
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Dec 1, 2022 23:14
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Hadlock posted:
Your carb is a Solex PBIC - should be a 34 if original to an 11D engine. It might be a 32, but they're virtually the same. They're a very simple fixed-jet single-choke carb with vert little scope for adjustment beyond the idle mixture. Wear in the spindles, warped bodies/bases, leaky gaskets would make it run lean. Worn jets would make it rich, but Solex carburettors are especially sensitive to float height, condition of the needle valve and the fuel delivery pressure. More than a couple of psi in the fuel line will overwhelm the needle valve and lead to rich running.  That's the instructions (and not desperately clear diagrams...) for tweaking what little can be tweaked on a Solex. But if it's running rich across the throttle/speed range I'd wager that it's a more general problem - probably worn, damaged or oversized jets. Unlikely to be excessive fuel pressure since the carb was originally fitment so the pump shouldn't over-supply.
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Dec 2, 2022 00:33
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spankmeister posted:No offense but you've been waffling on about tuning that carb for months. Get after it. Yeah between toddler and mosquito problems related to living in/adjacent to a swamp have been waiting for problems to subside, finally starting to get to that point. I also want to do a compression test to know where the rings are at (AFAIK they're original(??)), and if it's been running really rich the plugs probably need to be cleaned or replaced. Probably just order new plugs and cables to remove any uncertainty. Everything looks to be in great shape but I'd like to know for sure when everything was replaced last as I'm not planning on ever selling this thing. Also need to take apart the air cleaner and see/understand how that works. One of the official instruction manuals I found online said "rinse filter with petrol"  BalloonFish posted:Your carb is a Solex PBIC - should be a 34 if original to an 11D engine. It might be a 32, but they're virtually the same. Yeah 34 PBIC. Sounding like I should just order a 30.95 € rebuild kit, pick one rainy evening put on some zen music and clean/rebuild it. Looking at some solex carb videos on youtube looks like i can't really gently caress up the housing unless I cross thread something, and just needs a flat head screwdriver and an adjustable wrench, razor and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers.
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Dec 2, 2022 01:10
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I would work on the fuel-rich issue first (starting with the carb, float setting, and jets) before you do anything else; it makes it far easier to track down an issue by knocking them off one at a time. If you must, clean the plugs but do not yet replace them, as the heat range may be an issue as well. I assume that this has manual valve lifters; if so, add valve adjustment to your list, after carb and plugs; rockers tend to tighten over the years, and this can really restrict engine performance.
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Dec 2, 2022 02:43
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agree, those single barrel solexs are very simple. Only adjustments (apart from swapping jets) are idle mix and speed screws lean condition (popping and farting esp at low revs) would be from the throttle shaft wearing the body (no bearings) letting in too much air or a blocked idle or main jet or some other internal passage letting in insufficient fuel. Rich condition (black smoke = unburned fuel) would be from float level or flogged out jets or some other leak letting in too much gas. If its only smokey when you put your foot into it, its probably just 'old' especially if you say youve only been bimbling around in it, and PO probalby had been too. Rings could be gummed up, crap on teh valves, or just a worn engine built with low tolerances generally. Only more italian tune ups will say for sure  Leaks and float issues would tend to be less of an issue at WOT, as the fuel bowl draws down Could also be ignition breaking down at high rpm too, leading to unburnt fuel. Many carb problems are actually ignition and vice versa Anyway with the carb, you can do simple checks/maintenance on the car, but if you get a kit may as well do it on the bench to save losing teeny bits either forever somewhere on the ground, or get found when you restart cause they went down the intake... - set the float level (general rule of thumb it just closes the needle valve when the float is 'level' - however, assuming its easy find the correct level in the manual, use a drill bit as the measuring device), float distance is usually with the gasket on - check the needle valve, maybe some crud or wear stopping it sealing properly - check the jets (theyll either be fine or blocked, oversize is less likely but after 50+ years of POs who knows!) , - remove all the things - with any adjustment screws, wind them in counting the turns to stop so you can reinstall them to this setting later to get started - clean out the bowl and any emulsion tubes and internal passages (carb cleaner, shop air) - there may be a mesh filter where the fuel line enters the carb under the big brass nut - these are rarely cleaned and youll probalby have one in any rebuild kit - reassemble/install Once on the car, start it up and get it warm and idling, then adjust the idle mix, either by ear* or with a vacuum gauge to get highest vacuum, then adjust idle speed, then mix again, then speed. once idling nicley, check ignition timing at idle and another round of mix and speed. *aim is to get highest smoothest idle off the mixture screw, and worry about setting the speed with the throttle stop/idle speed later. Default is usually 2.5 turns on idle screws, and between just touching and a half turn on the idle speed/throttle stop screw The trick is to find the sweet spot on the idle screw halfway between the point where turning it in (leaner) makes it stumbles or slow, and turning it out (richer) stumbles or slows the engine. This is also the point where the engine is running best and therefore draws the highest vacuum - the vacuum gauge is probalby better more accurate method (the sweet spot is probalby a region within 1/8th of a turn) but the by ear will get you in the ball park, and you will probalby find you need to do at least a couple of rounds of mix/speed, mix/speed as you dial in on that sweet spot. The idle mix screw only sets the idle mix, which controls idle and off idle performance (ie pootling around, starting off from stopped and cruise), before the main jet takes over with progressively more jandal and so if it is in fact fine at idle and rich at wot, it may be a loose, worn/drilled/wrong jet, but id suspect its just old or needs a few more VMax runs
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Dec 2, 2022 05:16
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| # ? May 10, 2024 18:15 |
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azzurro posted:- check the needle valve, maybe some crud or wear stopping it sealing properly do those have a rubber tip on the needle? is it original? if so, it could have been eaten by modern gas if not, could still be crud in there from other fuel system rubber, if those haven't been updated as well
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Dec 2, 2022 06:00
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