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I don't know how much longer the Mk3S is going to be the king of mid-range printers, but it will certainly not be obsolete any time soon. And the upgrade kits are always very reasonably priced and easy to install when they do make major revisions. You could go from a mk2->mk2s->mk3->mk3s->mk3s+, and I don't foresee them making a hard break when a mk4 inevitibly happens Tom Sanladerer's video is very on-point-- what you get with the Mk3 is 1. great official support direct from prusa 2. great community support 3. probably the highest number of public modifications for any printer, other than maybe the ender3 So even as other brands are starting to make better and better printers at a lower price point, those three points are still pretty huge. I'm excited for my AnkerMake, and I've been eyeing a Neptune Pro, but those will absolutely not have the global knowledgebase that my Prusa has
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Dec 7, 2022 18:24
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1> Use .gcode to travel print head to each corner/center, and manually level bed 2> Run auto leveller 3> Double check and adjust z-offset 4> Run the .gcode that prints concentric squares to confirm evenness 5> RUN AN ACTUAL OBJECT AND WATCH THE FIRST LAYER LOOK LIKE UNEVEN poo poo Why??
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Dec 7, 2022 19:15
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AlternateAccount posted:5> RUN AN ACTUAL OBJECT AND WATCH THE FIRST LAYER LOOK LIKE UNEVEN poo poo IDK what printer you are running, but you might need to add a 'load the bed mesh' command into your starting gcode in your slicer. Fake edit: If your starting gcode contains the "G28" command, you might need to add the "M420 S" command directly after.
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Dec 7, 2022 19:22
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AlternateAccount posted:1> Use .gcode to travel print head to each corner/center, and manually level bed Too high usually. Looks great for little squares, but once you print small lines with 90* turns you really find out how well tuned your height is and how sticky the bed is. I just crank it down .1 and if it fixes it I go up .05. I don't recommend the nice squares for anything more than a basic level and height check. Edit: Oh and M2 through holes, gently caress those with a grater Edit2: If it's both too high and too low then it could be some mechanical issue. IIRC a bunch of people were having issues with non-straight axes on their bedslingers recently Bondematt fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Dec 7, 2022 |
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Dec 7, 2022 19:28
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Bondematt posted:Too high usually. I was really believing in the squares, but this makes sense, thank you. BadMedic posted:IDK what printer you are running, but you might need to add a 'load the bed mesh' command into your starting gcode in your slicer. Ender 3 neo. G28 disables homes and then... disables bed levelling? That's weird. And there's no following M420 S, I'll try that. I wonder if there's a setting in Cura to say hey, auto levelling is a thing on this machine. There's no preset for the 3 Neo. edit: oh man, even the Creality-wrapped Cura doesn't include the M420 S command, how bizarre. AlternateAccount fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Dec 7, 2022 |
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Dec 7, 2022 19:32
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Sockser posted:mk2s->mk3 Uhh this wasn't really feasible. They did provide a guide to do it, but these are the only parts that survive the upgrade: 
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Dec 7, 2022 20:13
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AlternateAccount posted:Ender 3 neo. G28 disables homes and then... disables bed levelling? That's weird. And there's no following M420 S, I'll try that. I wonder if there's a setting in Cura to say hey, auto levelling is a thing on this machine. There's no preset for the 3 Neo. you shouldn't need it, as there's a firmware flag in Marlin that makes the machine keep the bed leveling enabled... ...but not all manufacturers actually remember to set that flag whoops. So I say start a test print with M420 S shoved in there and see if it fixes things.
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Dec 7, 2022 20:18
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AlternateAccount posted:I was really believing in the squares, but this makes sense, thank you. As far as I know, there isn't a setting in Cura that tells it to use the saved bed mesh. I used to have that gcode command in my Cura print start gcode section, to tell it to home and then load the saved bed mesh before starting the print, but AFAIK there's no option you can check or whatever to tell it to do that.
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Dec 7, 2022 20:22
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Ok, Ender 3 pro with direct drive, auto-level, PEI bed, bed spring, and steel nozzle/extruder gear upgrades. Recently I've been getting extremely brittle prints with streaks of missing plastic, just using standard Inland PLA. I thought it was due to the fact that I'm printing in a basement at ~58F, so I only printed things that were over built to retain more heat, on a slightly higher temp, and with a draft shield. It worked great for a little bit, even printing glow in the dark PLA+ beautifully, but not anymore. These were all just standard .2mm resolution with a .4mm line width out of a .4mm nozzle. 225 hot end with a 70 degree bed. Here's the latest draft shield, looking lacey  One of the prints from that batch  And the inside, looking like the layers aren't actually fusing at all  I got the cheap Crealty enclosure to try to solve the temperature problem I'd been having, but I don't think that's going to solve this more recent development...
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Dec 7, 2022 20:43
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Looks like some combination of too cold + underextrusion, leaning towards under extrusion. I see your 225c note but something is causing not enough filament to come out and get a good squish for layer adhesion. Your print looks like what happens when I try and print with a 0.8mm nozzle using 0.4mm settings
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Dec 7, 2022 21:05
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The Door Frame posted:---and steel nozzle/extruder gear upgrades. Do you have a new hotend? Some of them will specify that you should go warmer than the stock one you replaced. (Like the Micro Swiss hotend for the CR-6 SE specifies that you should go 5-10C warmer than normal, for example.) But like Hadlock says, kinda looks like you're going too cold, too fast (relative to temp) and it's not keeping up. You could try running a temp calibration (like the one in Superslicer) and see what happens at higher temps.
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Dec 7, 2022 21:32
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Rhyno posted:Charge is pending on my card, nothing in my inbox or spam as of yet. Any update on this? Did you ever receive the confirmation email?
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Dec 7, 2022 21:32
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Sydney Bottocks posted:As far as I know, there isn't a setting in Cura that tells it to use the saved bed mesh. I used to have that gcode command in my Cura print start gcode section, to tell it to home and then load the saved bed mesh before starting the print, but AFAIK there's no option you can check or whatever to tell it to do that. Well I also discovered that the non-driven side of my Z-axis rails had some not-insignificant slop and tightened that down, now I think I am getting a bit of banding. We'll see when this print finishes. This stuff is.... a chore.
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Dec 7, 2022 22:08
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mewse posted:The prusa is still an extremely good printer and basically Just Works. Tom Sanladerer posted this 11 days ago explaining why his prusas are still his go-to printers even though they have 8 bit boards etc: Yeah this smells more like "Christmas is coming up and I have affiliate links so I may as well really dig deep and reify my personal decisions". Chep did one an even more egregious one, swerving from "I would marry the Ender 3 if it were legally permissible in my state" to "you know, a Prusa is REALLY easy, you REALLY should consider it [link down below]." I like a lot of Tom's previous work, but this is opportunistic poo poo that sucks. Viper915 posted:Ok so after a few years of wanting one, I finally got things sorted out to get a prusa mk3s+ for their black Friday deal, and was feeling very excited about it. Then I popped into the thread to see what things I should know and now I'm wondering if I should be cancelling my order and getting something cheaper? This would be my first 3d printer, I am generally pretty handy, and I'm not inclined to buy something less capable only to have to upgrade in a few years when I realize that something I wanted to print needs a hotter printer or whatever. (ABS?) These Neptune 3 pro and sv06 deals you guys are posting look good though. OP, it is absolutely okay to buy a N3Pro or SV06 (a Blůša if ever one was). You will be just as happy and have many additional dollars. For example, to buy the one you didn't buy later. And you almost certainly won't feel the need to mod them--commodity printers have pretty much hit the point where you can just use the things instead of sinking your life into hot-rodding them. (That's now a choice!) At most you're likely to want to hang something off a 2020 rail, and that stuff's universal. (The SV06 has the last hotend you're ever gonna need to buy for it, too. Unless you break it. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Dec 7, 2022 |
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Dec 7, 2022 22:28
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Hadlock posted:Looks like some combination of too cold + underextrusion, leaning towards under extrusion. I see your 225c note but something is causing not enough filament to come out and get a good squish for layer adhesion. Your print looks like what happens when I try and print with a 0.8mm nozzle using 0.4mm settings I started fiddling with it the piece to see what was actually fused on the top layer and it turns out the outer 2 lines can be separated from the print with almost no effort, taking about 10% of the skin below with it, so I think you're definitely onto something with the plastic not squishing. I've calibrated the esteps, and haven't changed any major settings since my successful prints, so hopefully just a clog? If it's actually a temperature issue, then irony of ironies, this failed print was pieces for the Lack enclosure that I have the non-printed pieces for  SubNat posted:Do you have a new hotend? Some of them will specify that you should go warmer than the stock one you replaced. (Like the Micro Swiss hotend for the CR-6 SE specifies that you should go 5-10C warmer than normal, for example.) No new hot end yet, it is on the list of things to buy AlternateAccount posted:This stuff is.... a chore. It's the coolest poo poo when it works right, though
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Dec 7, 2022 22:37
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The Door Frame posted:No new hot end yet, it is on the list of things to buy
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Dec 7, 2022 22:38
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Doctor Zero posted:Similarly, the Prusa XL hasn’t even been released yet, and it’s already outclassed by printers like the Bambu X-1 Carbon. I can buy TWO of those for less than the price of a multi tool XL right now. Are there any good reviews showing the Bambu in operation? We were thinking of getting a Prusa XL for large format but with the delays and cost, I could argue for this instead, but I'd like to see an honest review. Bondematt posted:I thought of that too, but not thrilled with needing to purge between changes and the issues Bambu has had regarding security. What security issue is this?
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Dec 7, 2022 22:48
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Listerine posted:What security issue is this? poo poo appsec when talking to Bambu servers. No HTTPS, among other things. Disclosed, then ignored, then only sort-of acknowledged when disclosure went public.
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Dec 7, 2022 22:50
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I’ll probably (not) do a review myself. But printer good is the short version. I’ve never seen a more solid printer. It is literally press butan and get print. Plus the enclosure is part of the printer and you don’t buy it separately for a lot of extra money. The multi-filament array is drat handy, although right now I’m only using it to have four different rolls of PLA that I select when I print and don’t have to unload and reload all the time. Not only is it loving REALLY fast (on the Neptune 3 a print that takes 17 hours takes 5 on the Bambu) it’s got super clean perfect prints. It also seems to calibrate for vibrations. When you do the first set up it up it sounds like the thing is going to explode, but I get like NO ringing so that’s my guess.
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Dec 7, 2022 23:26
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Unperson_47 posted:Any update on this? Did you ever receive the confirmation email? Got my confirmation email a couple hours ago, we're all good!
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Dec 7, 2022 23:54
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Doctor Zero posted:I’ll probably (not) do a review myself. But printer good is the short version. That all sounds really good. I don't care about multicolored prints and would probably just use it the same way, but can you use 3rd party filament spools? Anything proprietary about the spool holders? I can't find a good picture on their website to see how those are working.
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Dec 8, 2022 00:12
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w00tmonger posted:Voron has a "print it forward" program where you can go on a short waitlist and someone will make it at cost for you I got my 2.4 parts by PIF and they were great. Highly recommended. You don't get the skirt or enclosure parts, but those can be PLA+ so you can print them yourself without the enclosure.
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Dec 8, 2022 01:07
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Rhyno posted:Got my confirmation email a couple hours ago, we're all good! That's great to hear! Glad it got sorted.
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Dec 8, 2022 01:52
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PlaneGuy posted:I got my 2.4 parts by PIF and they were great. Highly recommended. You don't get the skirt or enclosure parts, but those can be PLA+ so you can print them yourself without the enclosure. Also, an enclosure can be a cardboard box as long as you keep an eye on things!
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Dec 8, 2022 01:52
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Unperson_47 posted:That's great to hear! Glad it got sorted. I'm pretty hype for auto-leveling. My first big boy printer.
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Dec 8, 2022 02:10
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Neptune 3 Pro now available for order in Canada, ships the 30th
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Dec 8, 2022 02:38
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The Door Frame posted:Ok, Ender 3 pro with direct drive, auto-level, PEI bed, bed spring, and steel nozzle/extruder gear upgrades. Recently I've been getting extremely brittle prints with streaks of missing plastic, just using standard Inland PLA. I thought it was due to the fact that I'm printing in a basement at ~58F, so I only printed things that were over built to retain more heat, on a slightly higher temp, and with a draft shield. If it's a clog I'd definitely try a cold pull since you've got a direct drive set up. Basically heat it up, run some filament out, turn the nozzle heater off, then when the temp gets down to 100C or so (for PLA), release the extruder tension and pull the filament out. It can be difficult but it should get you a piece of plastic that shows the filament path all the way to the nozzle. I prefer to do cold pulls with nylon (since it handles being pulled on without shattering) but ABS or PETG might be fine for that, although they need to be hotter. I think ABS or PETG you want 130 C or so, Nylon 140-150 C if you have some. There's also cleaning filaments you can run through the hot end but it seems to me like most of them are nylon based and it doesn't make sense to me that they'd remove a partial clog just by being fed through. I feel like a cold pull is more useful for entangling any gunk and removing it. In the past when I had some issue with my Ender 3 bowden tube not being all the way tight to the back of the nozzle, doing a cold pull got me a large blob on the end pulled back out of the nozzle that was a real challenge to get through the bowden tube. I ended up replacing the bowden tube with some capricorn style tighter dimension stuff and making sure I used the Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors guy's guide to seating it (basically when replacing the nozzle leave it 1/2 turn loose, then push the bowden in, then heat it and tighten). If you have an all metal hotend this may not be an issue since that replaces the part of the bowden that goes all the way down to the nozzle with the bimetal heatbreak tube.
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Dec 8, 2022 03:02
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Turns out anycubic basic resin doesn’t print well at 165 F
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Dec 8, 2022 03:54
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Toebone posted:Turns out anycubic basic resin doesn’t print well at 165 F Where are you printing?
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Dec 8, 2022 04:04
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Is resin at 165 a typo or something?
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Dec 8, 2022 04:17
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Rhyno posted:I'm pretty hype for auto-leveling. My first big boy printer. Same about the auto-leveling. I'm trying to figure out what the hell to do with my currently busted printer. I could use it as a plotter I guess. This guy makes a replacement PCB for the hotend that would probably get it back up and running but I don't want to throw $55 at it and they are not currently selling it: https://www.tindie.com/products/bdwalker1/da-vinci-10-pro-hot-end-pcb/ Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Dec 8, 2022 |
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Dec 8, 2022 04:22
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Unperson_47 posted:Same about the auto-leveling. what's wrong with it? i ended up with a Sunlu S8 Plus for free* that I was able to get working for like $12 in parts and two hours of youtubing. * bad purchase from ebay, ended up getting a refund without return
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Dec 8, 2022 04:28
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bird food bathtub posted:Is resin at 165 a typo or something? I’ve got a little heater & enclosure setup so I can print in my basement in the winter and the thermostat probe fell out, whoopsie
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Dec 8, 2022 04:33
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Toebone posted:I’ve got a little heater & enclosure setup so I can print in my basement in the winter and the thermostat probe fell out, whoopsie "Why does the voron group refuse to talk about heated chambers?" ........................ There we go. While we're at it. You should put in a thermal fuse. This shouldn't have been able to happen, full stop. --------------------- Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-...aps%2C98&sr=8-6 This is a 75deg C thermal fuse. If you're considering continuing using a heater, put this in the chamber. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Dec 8, 2022 |
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Dec 8, 2022 04:34
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Rhyno posted:what's wrong with it? i ended up with a Sunlu S8 Plus for free* that I was able to get working for like $12 in parts and two hours of youtubing. It's a Davinci Pro and it just can't maintain temperature at all. It will overheat and ooze and splatter filament everywhere or not get hot enough and not extrude filament and just slip. The proprietary software you need to send it prints has a monitor in it and it will say the nozzle temp is 270+C and then sub-190C sometimes in the middle of prints when I have it set for 210 for example. As a note, 230C is the max nozzle temp of this printer. Then one day it just read as 0 temp no matter what. I took it apart and the hotend PCb has a gigantic crack across its entire width, breaking a trace for the thermistor. I temporarily fixed this by soldering a jumper wire to reconnect the traces but it was a very very dodgy job. The traces are tiny and I had to scratch into the PCB to get some kinda surface to solder to. This got it back to working for a while but then the heat problem crept back in, probably because the wire is making intermittent contact. Also it'll throw errors about other stuff like the SDCard containing the firmware on the mainboard being corrupt. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Dec 8, 2022 |
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Dec 8, 2022 04:42
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Unperson_47 posted:This got it back to working for a while but then the heat problem crept back in, probably because the wire is making intermittent contact. .... time to throw it out. There is no benifit to this fight.
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Dec 8, 2022 04:44
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Nerobro posted:.... time to throw it out. There is no benifit to this fight. Oh yeah, definitely. I ordered a Neptune 3 Pro just yesterday so this nightmare will be over next month. (hopefully) I think it would work fine as a plotter or vinyl cutter/Cricut type of thing. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Dec 8, 2022 |
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Dec 8, 2022 04:46
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My Sunlu was doing similar temp things and a new hotend and thermistor wire sorted it out. But i like to tinker and it was free so i found no frustration in working on it.
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Dec 8, 2022 04:50
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Rhyno posted:My Sunlu was doing similar temp things and a new hotend and thermistor wire sorted it out. But i like to tinker and it was free so i found no frustration in working on it. I've tinkered with this davinci a ton over the years. Replaced the hotend (except that pcb) and to do that to had to print a carriage for those to go into from thingiverse. "Installed" a glass bed by just getting a glass picture frame from home Depot, cutting it to size, and slapping it on the bed with some thermal pads in between. It's been an alright printer for the most part. No problems with PLA, ABS, or PTEG. It's a Bowden and it printed TPU fine the little I messed with TPU. I'll be glad not to ever have to bother with a bowden tube, those push-fit fittings for the tube, and retraction headaches again. Looking forward to all the new headaches that direct-drive brings. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Dec 8, 2022 |
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Dec 8, 2022 05:30
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 00:53 |
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Glowforge came today. Took less than an hour to set up and have my first cut. Easier to set up than any printer, 3D or otherwise. Just kind of amazing how easy it is. Only issue is that it needs temperature above 40, and with my garage side door open to run the vent tube out of it drops below that because the vent tube is pretty short. Also accidently dropped vent tube as I was holding it during a cut, at the end of a cut, and it turns out it is venting a lot of smoke, haha.
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Dec 8, 2022 06:10
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