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Here I was, thinking I was going to learn interesting things about how to bond pieces of equipment across multiple voltage environments in noisy areas without causing ground loops. And it turns out it's one person in their house trying to figure out why 10GbaseT is garbage and "will shielded save me" without understanding how to create a star bonding topology within a single rack. Horrible page snipe stays. State the problem you're having with the equipment you have; don't ask the question you think you need to have answered. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Dec 11, 2022 |
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Dec 11, 2022 06:33
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Here I was, thinking I was going to learn interesting things about how to bond pieces of equipment across multiple voltage environments in noisy areas without causing ground loops. I have some real world experience with this at a company that builds large buildings (3 sets of main switch gear) and it is definitely interesting. One major equipment vendor uses fiber and the other uses copper. I have seen ground potential melt cat6, and buildings with the second vendor's equipment replace 20% of their cable plant in a year. fatman1683 posted:But if it's on its way out then I'll see what my options are with fiber or direct-attach copper. I would absolutely disagree about using fiber at home, especially if you have a bunch of equipment already. A single mgig POE switch is the most flexible >1gig option, with mgig ports increasingly common on PCs and APs. Just use UTP. The stuff's ridiculously forgiving at house distances and STP is unnecessary. If you had consistent problems you may need to practice terminations a bit. Edit: if you do get an SFP+ switch, pay careful attention to the compatibility list if you want to use any of your copper equipment. Example: Cisco 9300s can use 10GBASE-T SFP+ tranceivers, but 9200s can't because of power budget. KS fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Dec 11, 2022 |
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Dec 11, 2022 06:55
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KS posted:I have some real world experience with this at a company that builds large buildings (3 sets of main switch gear) and it is definitely interesting. One major equipment vendor uses fiber and the other uses copper. I have seen ground potential melt cat6, and buildings with the second vendor's equipment replace 20% of their cable plant in a year. This situation is specifically about cabling within the rack, connecting my servers to a 10Gb backbone for doing datastores over iSCSI and other storagey things. I don't use any long 10gig runs in this house, and while I agree that my terminations are probably pretty lovely, the cables I was using at the time I had issues were factory-terminated. I'm in the process of consolidating everything into a single rack and the only thing outside the rack will be the APs, which don't support multigig or 10gig, and I don't really need that level of wireless performance anyway. In any case, I think fiber will work, and 10gig SFP+ NICs are getting cheap enough on the secondary market that it's probably a wash on cost vs STP, especially if trying to properly implement shielded cabling is going to cause other issues.
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Dec 11, 2022 07:29
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:State the problem you're having with the equipment you have; don't ask the question you think you need to have answered. This pretty much needs to be a rule in all DIY threads. Whenever someone is being cagy about exactly what it is they're doing it turns out they're doing something monumentally stupid and/or going about it the entirely wrong way. Like the one who didn't know how to use a tape measure and ended up buying measuring standards to prove themselves wrong. It's basically a pattern here and I think it's a condition that's adjacent to "engineer brain".
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Dec 11, 2022 16:17
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Motronic posted:This pretty much needs to be a rule in all DIY threads. Whenever someone is being cagy about exactly what it is they're doing it turns out they're doing something monumentally stupid and/or going about it the entirely wrong way. Like the one who didn't know how to use a tape measure and ended up buying measuring standards to prove themselves wrong. Wait, there’s more than one way to use a tape measure?
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Dec 11, 2022 17:51
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nwin posted:Wait, there’s more than one way to use a tape measure? Sure: right and wrong.
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Dec 11, 2022 18:14
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I'm in my early forties and just discovered that the end of the tape measure is loose by design basic so you get a consistent result when pressed against something or pulled along something.
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Dec 11, 2022 19:19
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KS posted:I have seen ground potential melt cat6, and buildings with the second vendor's equipment replace 20% of their cable plant in a year. I've seen things you people wouldn't believe... Cables on fire in the racks of DC2... I watched fiber glitter in the dark after a backhoe cut. All those moments will be lost in time, like my stock options... Time to die.
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Dec 11, 2022 19:59
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I've seen things you people wouldn't believe... Cables on fire in the racks of DC2... I watched fiber glitter in the dark after a backhoe cut. All those moments will be lost in time, like my stock options... Time to die. As a former Rackspace employee this hit me right in the ESPP.
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Dec 11, 2022 20:51
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I watched fiber glitter in the dark after a backhoe cut. I once drove a backhoe backwards over a bunch of cans that a plumber had set out to blank out spots before a concrete slab pour the next morning. I had to call him in at 7pm to redo his work and it was the closest I think I've ever come to being murdered. Will always think of it when I see a backhoe.
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Dec 11, 2022 21:48
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I'm in my early forties and just discovered that the end of the tape measure is loose by design basic so you get a consistent result when pressed against something or pulled along something. Yes I think it's 1/32nd or 1/16th or something exactly. Tons of salivating YouTubers that would be happy to show you the one simple trick with a tape measure.
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Dec 11, 2022 23:56
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I watched fiber glitter in the dark after a backhoe cut.
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Dec 12, 2022 02:28
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Motronic posted:Like the one who didn't know how to use a tape measure and ended up buying measuring standards to prove themselves wrong. Holy smokes, I’d love a link on this.
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Dec 12, 2022 02:33
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Does anyone have a preferred or recommended supplier for keystone jacks? I'm finding pretty significant variability in cost, termination method, and presumably quality. I don't really want to spend $16+/jack on Leviton or Panduit, but I'm not sure if Monoprice's $2 jacks are any good.
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Dec 12, 2022 04:32
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fatman1683 posted:Does anyone have a preferred or recommended supplier for keystone jacks? I'm finding pretty significant variability in cost, termination method, and presumably quality. I don't really want to spend $16+/jack on Leviton or Panduit, but I'm not sure if Monoprice's $2 jacks are any good. Commercial or residential or your own home? I've been using movax fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 05:10
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movax posted:Commercial or residential or your own home? I've been using LINKCOM at home for Cat6A -- have not seen issues yet, but it's only been 2 years. They do support 10GbE over Monoprice Cat6A in my experience so far, but most of those runs are either 1000BASE-T or 2500BASE-T. I leave enough spare coiled up in the wall behind these that if they ever do poo poo out / break / whatever, it is a mild inconvenience at worst. Patch panel in a lab rack. I'll check out LINKCOM, thanks! e: Not finding anything on LINKCOM, unless you meant LINKOMM? Looks to be a Taiwanese company selling on Amazon. fatman1683 fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 05:20
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fatman1683 posted:Patch panel in a lab rack. I'll check out LINKCOM, thanks! Yep, that's the one -- will correct my initial post. e: looking below, these definitely require a solid ka-chunk / punch. I use a Trendnet punch down tool, works great with the LINKOMM jacks. E2: last winter I got bored and discovered PACKOUTs + Kaizen foam, behold a homeowner Ethernet kit:  The Monoprice punch sucks and I should really throw it out. I'll only ever use the Klein RJ plugs from now on though, zero pain with their crimper. movax fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 06:20
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fatman1683 posted:Does anyone have a preferred or recommended supplier for keystone jacks? I'm finding pretty significant variability in cost, termination method, and presumably quality. I don't really want to spend $16+/jack on Leviton or Panduit, but I'm not sure if Monoprice's $2 jacks are any good. Monoprices are garbage. You want ones that at least require a real punch down tool. Kachunk is your friend. I had to throw away a bunch of monoprice ones they were so bad, but they were the "self punching" ones.
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Dec 12, 2022 06:24
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Double posting because I am drunk with power. Came home at 8:30pm to the christmas lights not on, strange, but also the timer got 2.5" of rain on it today and the spike to keep it vertical went missing YEARS ago. Outlets are out in one bedroom as well. Check the panel - one breaker is tripped. Look more closely and it looks like the breaker fluid is leaking out. Which seems bad given there isn't supposed to be any breaker fluid in there at all. Reset it and it lasted 5-10 minutes before tripping again. It's an AFCI - not sure if it's that or short either way it's living that way until tomorrow. Emailed our electrician to come have a look. Opened up the panel and found that there is water on a couple of breakers, a black widow spider, the spiders dinner of an earwig, and some blown insulation. 2 out of 4 of those aren't supposed to be there. Spider enemy:  Re-tripped breaker:   And some obvious corrosion. Ugh. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 07:40
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you really allowed to have that much exposed copper at the terminals?
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Dec 12, 2022 08:25
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That looks like an animal nest made of insulation. Also yeah, way too much copper sticking out on those breaker wires. Is that a 3R rated enclosure? How did water get in?
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Dec 12, 2022 15:50
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kecske posted:you really allowed to have that much exposed copper at the terminals? SpartanIvy posted:That looks like an animal nest made of insulation. Too much copper on the wires I noticed as well. The city inspected it as part of a whole home rewire.  That inspector I believe retired a year later. The new guy is more on the ball and is frustrated with the level of "inspection" the old timer did. How did water get in I am unclear. It was night, wet, and I was tired. I have 0 insulated tools and couldn't cut power to the house for something that appeared isolated. Going to try unplugging the Christmas lights and seeing if it stays on. Any time I tested it would wake up my kid so I was limited in what I could do with a hot panel and 0 ppe. (My head also touches the door while looking inside it.) Edit: Christmas lights aren't it, but I wasn't that hopeful. Unplugged them, tripped the gfci manually on the outlet itself. Retrips. Not surprised. Crummy picture because it's a super awkward angle and it is actively raining. You can make out the model, I'll transcribe it later.  And the enemy, given the splatter I don't think it's just running in when I open it. 
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 16:05
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Bad Munki posted:Holy smokes, I’d love a link on this. It's always the same guy that derails these threads for pages at a time.
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Dec 12, 2022 17:08
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SpartanIvy posted:Is that a 3R rated enclosure? How did water get in? I'm trying to figure out this. I don't know where to find the actual model for my load center though. These are the relevant catalogs parts from the picture (ignoring the 2 150A parts.) I am not sure where to find the actual part number on my panel. It's an Eaton as you can see. It is outdoors installed semi-flush in stucco. Weather head is a near straight shot up from it. MBE2040B200BTS MBE2040BH200BTS MBE2040B200BTF MBE2040BH200BTF Found it: Open the catalog on this link to page 172 https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.MBE2040B200BTS.html All of the MBE panels are NEMA Type 3R. Edit edit:  I'm sort of assuming I have a roof problem. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 18:14
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Bad Munki posted:Holy smokes, I’d love a link on this. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3384038&pagenumber=266&perpage=40#post503864843
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Dec 12, 2022 18:16
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I think you're going to need a service changeout, that panel is trashed.
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Dec 12, 2022 19:07
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Hed posted:I think you're going to need a service changeout, that panel is trashed. Panel might be okay once cleaned up but I'd definitely fix the water intrusion problem and replace some breakers while redoing the rest.
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Dec 12, 2022 19:15
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Hed posted:I think you're going to need a service changeout, that panel is trashed. Yeah. I am worried about that. It's like 6 years old. This is mostly me venting to you unsuspecting people, but also, should I push for this to be covered by the electrician? I'm not sure how to judge if this was "bad luck with water intrusion" or "improperly installed." Yes the wires were stripped too far - but that doesn't cause lug corrosion from water. It has the annoying side effect of literally being my neighbor. I did not know this when I hired them originally. 
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Dec 12, 2022 19:19
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H110Hawk posted:
Oh lord this is my new nightmare fuel.
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Dec 12, 2022 19:24
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Well he came out, looked around at it, was able to reproduce the problem (thank god), pulled all the breakers off the bus bar, cleaned everything out entirely, reinstalled the breakers, re-seated the wire in the problem breaker, dried everything thoroughly, and the breaker stayed on. He didn't see any obvious signs off intrusion and thinks it was the pile of insulation that was there soaking up water over time. I don't strictly believe him, but for now we're waiting to see if it re-occurs. It's supposed to rain more here in a day or three so I will inspect it then. Everything got wiped down so if any new water gets in it should be obvious what is "fresh." $0 and a merry christmas. One benefit of neighbors. Assuming my house doesn't burn down.
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Dec 12, 2022 21:57
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I have an old slag glass light fixture whose bulb is flickering and actually shocks me a bit whenever I touch the bulb socket. Pretty sure the wire is shorting due to the wiring being all twisted up for several years: The actual dimmer for it appears to be wired correctly. So I've decided to re-wire this entire fixture before it burns my house down I've noticed that the existing wiring has paired wires that are stuck and parallel together- what's the proper name for this wiring? And any suggestions or tips on doing re-wiring job properly? 
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Dec 13, 2022 00:10
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H110Hawk posted:Well he came out, looked around at it, was able to reproduce the problem (thank god), pulled all the breakers off the bus bar, cleaned everything out entirely, reinstalled the breakers, re-seated the wire in the problem breaker, dried everything thoroughly, and the breaker stayed on. He didn't see any obvious signs off intrusion and thinks it was the pile of insulation that was there soaking up water over time. I don't strictly believe him, but for now we're waiting to see if it re-occurs. It's supposed to rain more here in a day or three so I will inspect it then. Everything got wiped down so if any new water gets in it should be obvious what is "fresh." Wiring Thread: Neighbors will burn your house down. Sounds like a good outcome for now. I can't tell your setup around the enclosure and not sure what region of country you live but assuming that if vermin can get in then moist air can as well. Need to figure out that ingress part.
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Dec 13, 2022 00:30
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:It's always the same guy that derails these threads for pages at a time. I love intentionally derailing threads for a little while but you've got to be self aware about it.
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Dec 13, 2022 00:55
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melon cat posted:I have an old slag glass light fixture whose bulb is flickering and actually shocks me a bit whenever I touch the bulb socket. Pretty sure the wire is shorting due to the wiring being all twisted up for several years: lamp cord, I've also heard it called siamese cable
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Dec 13, 2022 01:29
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Btw, antiquelampsupply.com is great for finding reproduction parts (sockets, cord, pull chains) that match the original. For instance, twin cord.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:05
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Hed posted:Sounds like a good outcome for now. I can't tell your setup around the enclosure and not sure what region of country you live but assuming that if vermin can get in then moist air can as well. Need to figure out that ingress part. We didn't see any secondary signs of vermin (poop, chewing, any kind of food, corpses) and I haven't heard any sounds of it in the house itself. The panel is in the wall of our bedroom so I feel like I would have heard it if something was scratching around inside there. I do genuinely think this all came in when the insulation was blown into the house shortly after this whole thing was installed. Either way I will pop the cover off periodically and after it rains to check for signs of trouble for a little bit. I'm in socal, it's semi-recessed in stucco on the outside of the house.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:33
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H110Hawk posted:We didn't see any secondary signs of vermin (poop, chewing, any kind of food, corpses) and I haven't heard any sounds of it in the house itself. The panel is in the wall of our bedroom so I feel like I would have heard it if something was scratching around inside there. I do genuinely think this all came in when the insulation was blown into the house shortly after this whole thing was installed. Either way I will pop the cover off periodically and after it rains to check for signs of trouble for a little bit. I'd probably get some duct-seal and seal up any of the large conduit entrances, just to try to keep stuff out.
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Dec 13, 2022 03:21
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What would be the best way to pass power into an enclosure that I need to keep sealed? I'd like to pass two 20A circuits, not have any kind of fixed cable or massive protuberance on the outside, and use standard parts whenever possible. I also have to pass two RJ45, so I was thinking a combo wall plate, but I haven't found anything that looks like it would work as a power inlet in a standard duplex receptacle. Any suggestions?
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Dec 13, 2022 18:05
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I have what might be a dumb idea and am totally willing to just not do it if there's not a safe and sane way to do it. I have a 20 amp circuit in my garage that's just for tools, is there a code-compliant way to install some kind of emergency stop button that, if pressed, will kill the circuit? I've got a GFCI/AFCI breaker so I know, electrically, I could get an emergency stop button on Amazon, and wire up the "normally open" terminals so that when it's pressed it connects the hot and ground, triggering a fault and tripping the breaker. But I'm sure that's not going to be code-compliant, so is there a way to do it in a code-compliant way? As I type this I'm realizing that installing a switch at the beginning of the circuit would do the trick, so if I decide this is really something I want I can do that. It just happens that I've been working on a project with my raspberry pi and looking at industrial control switches and seeing a lot of big "EMERGENCY STOP" buttons and wondering if it would be possible to install one of those in a proper manner.
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Dec 13, 2022 18:26
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fatman1683 posted:What would be the best way to pass power into an enclosure that I need to keep sealed? I'd like to pass two 20A circuits, not have any kind of fixed cable or massive protuberance on the outside, and use standard parts whenever possible. What do you mean by "keep sealed?" Is this finger safe, dust tight, water tight, IP69K? What is a "massive protuberance" defined as? Is the power coming or going? As before, can you explain exactly what it is you're doing? You're asking some very open ended questions that have a million answers depending on the details. Standard answer is to use a cord grip. But I'm not sure if that counts as a "massive protuberance" or what. fatman1683 posted:I also have to pass two RJ45, so I was thinking a combo wall plate, but I haven't found anything that looks like it would work as a power inlet in a standard duplex receptacle. Any suggestions? There's stuff like this: https://www.hubbell.com/wiringdevic...-Pack/p/1640458 But I have no idea what it is you need. And I find it highly unlikely that you'd find a 5-15 with RJ45 jacks on it. You don't want those near each other. edit: derp you said 20A so you'd need a 5-20. They make those too. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Dec 13, 2022 |
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Dec 13, 2022 18:29
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