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Advent Horizon posted:The auto coolers in a radiator are great for power steering, if you ever feel like you need more cooling in that system. Yeah nah don't do this. The built in cooler is a two fold approach for an automatic. It helps get its fluid up to temp faster and keeps its fluid at roughly engine coolant temp. The power assisted steering/hydroboost systems do not require either of these things hence having a non-thermostatically-controlled dedicated cooler if anything at all. 800 power steering systems already have a dedicated plate cooler, there's no need to add a milkshake party to a system controlling power assist to steering (and in some cases brakes).
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Jul 29, 2022 15:36
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SpeedFreek posted:At some point in there the mechanical fuel pump provisions were removed. It was the last change made to the block and I think it only exists on the final versions of the Vortec like the L31. I'm pretty sure they're still making GBS threads out Goodwrench crate SBC castings that still have the fuel pump provision anyway. What's crazier to me is the fact that the LS1 itself is now a 25-year-old engine.
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Jul 29, 2022 17:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:It was the last change made to the block and I think it only exists on the final versions of the Vortec like the L31. I'm pretty sure they're still making GBS threads out Goodwrench crate SBC castings that still have the fuel pump provision anyway. yeah and even the L31 still has the mounting boss, it just doesnt have the pushrod hole drilled. you can drill it out and use it if you want (or get an 80s roller block and put all the L31 stuff on it and have the best of both worlds like i did)
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Jul 30, 2022 05:26
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What's even funnier is that in 91 with the Gen V big block, GM removed the provisions for the mechanical fuel pump. Then with the Gen VI, they brought it back.
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Aug 1, 2022 00:55
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That’s right about when crate engines became popular, it could have been a combination of that and marine long block orders. When enough customers want that provision it might be easier to just have one casting.
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Aug 1, 2022 01:06
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Raluek posted:ah, yeah that's probably likely I love this video about the original SBC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS8b4GMU8wU
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Aug 4, 2022 15:43
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Mr-Spain posted:I love this video about the original SBC thats pretty cool. i didnt know about the valve covers or the motor mounts. i wonder if all that changed in 57 with the addition of the oil filter, or if they trickled in separately
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Aug 5, 2022 04:11
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Cross-posting from the stupid questions thread: I've got a bad smell coming from the rear passenger's wheel after driving and the wheel gets hot. The parking brake pedal also doesn't return all the way, I can flop it back up another few inches after pulling the release latch, I think that's probably related but I could be wrong. The smell and heat don't seem quite as bad after smacking the backing plate on the brake drum with a deadblow a few times, but I popped the drum off anyway. The bottom portion of the rear drum, which the parking brake engages, is roughed up compared to the rest of the shoes. Honda Whisperer (I think) in the stupid questions thread said that if I had the drum off I could release the parking brake, how would I do that? Also, is there something I can/should adjust/clean to prevent this happening again? It started happening right after hauling a big trailer (5,000lb, truck rated for 6,000) so I'm wondering if the brakes were hot when I parked and put the parking brake on and that caused a problem like I remember a goon having happen at a track day. The trailer has fantastic brakes though, to the point it was braking faster than without the trailer, so I wouldn't think that would be the issue.
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Aug 17, 2022 22:07
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What kind of vehicle are we talking about here? I'm presuming a full size older truck since you're talking about a big trailer? What he probably meant RE the parking brake/drum is if the brake was engaged, you'd probably have fun getting the drum off since the shoes pushing against the drum is what your brake is*. But it might be sticking which is and whacking it might have disengaged it. You might want to clean up the star wheel adjuster, but I really haven't worked on drums in something like 25+ years. Sometimes hitting the brake in reverse seems to help as well, once again, depending on the vehicle. *=Vehicle dependent. Some have vehicles have completely separate drums for the parking brake but I'm assuming that's not the case here. e: Gah, just realized this is the truck thread, I thought it was the general chat thread slidebite fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 17, 2022 |
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Aug 17, 2022 22:45
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Sorry, I keep forgetting to specify. '92 K1500 pickup. It was a pain getting the drum off. Easier once I remembered to disengage the parking brake but still a significant amount of resistance to pulling it off. So it's partially moving but not fully. From my failed attempt at doing the drum brakes before I took it to the shop when I first got the truck I know that the rear shoe on the truck is the parking brake. Judging by Google it looks like there should be an adjustment for the parking brake cable somewhere ahead of the rear end, but I'm not sure if there's anything I have to do inside the drum itself to make sure the brake can disengage. E: fixed it, the parking brake line had enough slack (maybe a little too much?) so I backed off the pre-adjustment until with the parking brake on there was a little friction and with it off there was none. Went for a ~8 mile test drive including some highway driving and some hard braking on back roads and the wheel is cool to the touch when it used to be warm after about 5 miles. Also found an empty parking lot and backed up and braked a few times to give the adjustment a chance to get just right. I'm going to carry a jack, stands, wrench, crowbar, and pliers for a while in case it gets bad again I can find an O'Reilly's parking lot or something to fix it. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 17, 2022 23:03
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I'm looking at a 2010 Sierra 1500 since my truck exploded and I'm tired of my vehicles breaking down. Did they all have displacement on demand in that timeframe? I know I can tell by the RPO code but I don't expect the owner to be able to find it and I'd rather avoid the ~hour drive to see it if it's got the lifter killer. It looks like the 5.3s did, but I can't tell about the 6.0. E: This one is the 4.8 I guess from the seller's documentation, looks like those didn't have active fuel management, but there have been so many versions of every engine made I'm not positive. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Sep 7, 2022 |
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Sep 7, 2022 18:31
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Unless you can get the seller to snap a photo of under the intake manifold, I don't think you'll get very far without the RPO code. Engine Displacement RPO Code 5.3L LY5 LC9 LH6 LMG LS4 6.0L L76 L77 LFA LZ1 6.2L L94 L99 My limited knowledge is that 4.8's never had it, all 5.3's of that era have it, and it's 50/50 on the rest.
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Sep 8, 2022 00:47
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Anyone here knowledgable about 70s and 80s japanese pickups? I'm looking for a candidate for a restoration project (and possibly an EV conversion later on) next year or so. My ideal pickup is a Hilux (toyota truck) somewhere from the 80s. But there are also Nissans and Datsuns (the 620 is a really nice looking 70s pickup) and Mitshubishis to choose from. I'm looking for a diesel of some kind (most common here) in the 1.6 - 2.5 L range, can go either RWD or a 4x4. I am leaning strongly towards a Hilux of 80s vintage. But I am open to alternatives, I think a Datsun or Nissan is the most likely alternative, I don't know if L200s compare from this era? His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 09:04
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm looking at a 2010 Sierra 1500 since my truck exploded and I'm tired of my vehicles breaking down. Did they all have displacement on demand in that timeframe? I know I can tell by the RPO code but I don't expect the owner to be able to find it and I'd rather avoid the ~hour drive to see it if it's got the lifter killer. It looks like the 5.3s did, but I can't tell about the 6.0. You can get the engine from the 8th digit of the VIN. The 5.3 and 6.0 had AFM, the others didn't (according to forums).
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Sep 10, 2022 17:36
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On an 06 4wd how hard is it to drop the oil pan and replace the oil pickup tube / gasket? How hard is it to drop the oil pan?
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Oct 27, 2022 02:40
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Cross-posting from my project thread, on a GMT400 are the manifolds on a van engine (this one came out of a 3500 I think) compatible with the exhaust on a truck (K1500)? They're both TBI 350s, I just want to know if I need to drown the new engine in liquid wrench (not literally) to get the headers off or if it will hook up and save me a lot of headache.
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Nov 17, 2022 22:27
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I'd try to cross reference on a junkyard website or rockauto, if nobody here has an answer (I certainly don't).
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Nov 17, 2022 23:27
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Well, looks like the parts are all over the place depending on the year and whether it was a 3/4 ton van or 1 ton van which I don't remember despite having been there. So yeah, I'm probably pulling the manifolds. I wish this thing wasn't so much of a basket case, this would be the perfect excuse to get a set of shorty headers so I don't have to remove both sets. E: Does anyone know what the standard radiator core size was for the 5.7? I see a few different sizes on Rockauto, a 20 3/4" wide core, a 28 1/4" core, and a 34" core. I'd estimate the one in there to be 28" but that seems really small for an engine this size. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Nov 18, 2022 |
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Nov 18, 2022 00:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well, looks like the parts are all over the place depending on the year and whether it was a 3/4 ton van or 1 ton van which I don't remember despite having been there. So yeah, I'm probably pulling the manifolds. I wish this thing wasn't so much of a basket case, this would be the perfect excuse to get a set of shorty headers so I don't have to remove both sets. Auto or manual? I have one of each I could measure tomorrow if you can remind me somehow. E: I have a 92 c2500 5spd and a 94 Yukon k1500 auto I can look at.
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Nov 18, 2022 23:22
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Mine is the manual k1500, '92.
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Nov 19, 2022 00:50
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92 C2500 5.7 Manual, no oil or transmission cooler (just thermostat/water pump and expansion tank hoses): looks like 29" but I didn't remove the shroud to measure. 94 K1500 Yukon 5.7 Auto, oil and transmission cooler built in: 34" and I remembered I need to go to a junkyard and find a shroud.
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Nov 20, 2022 19:13
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Interesting, I'd expect the 2500 to have the larger radiator, I guess maybe it's just manuals got 28 and autos got 34?
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Nov 21, 2022 04:15
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When I was trying to find a replacement radiator for my 80 Squarebody it had the same issue with two different sized radiators. The larger one was used when you had AC and the smaller one without AC. That was the only differentiator that I could find. Most of the after market radiators are the shorter ones so if you have an AC truck and want to swap out the rad you have to get the different top support bracket as well.
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Nov 21, 2022 14:17
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The 92 has an external oil cooler and the AC in front of the regular radiator, I think the autos get the one with the transmission and oil cooler built in the 34". The only aftermarket parts on the 92 are the brake controller and radio, the 94 had a 2nd transmission and oil cooler when I got it that did a great job for corrosion mitigation.
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Nov 21, 2022 16:44
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Took delivery of my company 23 Silverado LT double cab today. It replaces my 19 LD (previous gen). First impressions: Seats are more comfortable, actually interior in general is very nice. Seems to be good quality. Crazy lack of small cubby type storage though. I used to have a storage spot center of dash (classic ashtray area), nothing there. No sunglass holder on the ceiling near lights. Only the center console and a pretty small glovebox. Unless I just can't find them? Previous gen had a multitude of USB ports. Glove box, center console. All hidden. Now just a single A and C, both exposed right in the middle of the dash. So if you need to charge your phone or use a thumb drive for MP3s, it's sticking out. Display seems to be really nice. The infotainment center in general seems ok, if clunky and convoluted. Might just be getting used to it. Oddly, I can't seem to fast forward MP3s at all, holding down the FF in the old gen skipped ahead 10 seconds, now it just skips to the next file. Wireless android auto is a big bonus. Mine was equipped with the turbo 2.7 with 8 spd. Coming from a 5.3 I expected to hate it. Keeping in mind I only have about 25kms on it, the power is ample and I really like the shifting (including downshifting) of the transmission. I'm not usually a fan on the digital instrument cluster, but it seems OK.
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Dec 6, 2022 20:52
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310 hp, 430 ft/lbs.  More torque than the 5.3, less HP.The power looks to be a little more than Ford's 2.7 Ecoboost (I'm sure some of that is due to less rotating mass, since Chevy's 2.7 is a 4 banger). I've driven the 2.7 EB w/10 speed in an F-150, and that thing scoots way harder than something that size has any business doing. I don't know if I'd want to own either engine once they get past 100k, but I'm a luddite that prefers NA on a high mile vehicle.
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Dec 10, 2022 07:33
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I'm still working on swapping the engine on my '92 K1500, I've got almost everything off and am hoping to get the engine out this weekend but I want to confirm what I'm seeing as far as the starter. It looks like the starter is hooked up to the transmission so I won't have to pull it to take the engine out, is that right? I was under the impression that starters were always on the engine but I haven't done a swap before so I might just completely misunderstand how this stuff works.
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Dec 10, 2022 23:04
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The starter turns the flywheel, which is mounted to the engine but physically located inside the bellhousing (which will look like part of the transmission, and may actually be part of the transmission). That means you will need to pull the starter even though it’s not mounted directly to the engine.
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Dec 10, 2022 23:48
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Gotcha, thanks. So it isn't attached to the block, but I do have to pull it. Shouldn't be too bad, I just need to stop forgetting my headlamp.
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Dec 10, 2022 23:56
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is there a configuration of the tbi 350 that mounts the starter to the bellhousing? ive only seen the block-mounted ones, but also i dont crawl under those very often
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Dec 11, 2022 00:11
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As far as I can tell, yes, but I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at under there between the poor visibility, grime all over everything, and never really working on anything but a boxer engine before. It's right over another piece that I think is either the clutch cable or shift linkage, on the front of the transmission towards the passenger's side. I got the starter bolts loose and almost got it out but a bracket on it is hitting what looks like a sensor that is going in right over the oil pan. Does anyone know what that sensor is from the description? I'm trying to get it to load on Imgur so I can link it but I'm having trouble for some reason. The plastic boot on the sensor is shattered so I'm not quite sure how to safely get it out, the sensor itself looks like it might be ceramic so I'm afraid of cracking it. Might just be unusually white plastic for something of this age though.
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Dec 11, 2022 04:08
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Knock sensor. It's plastic not ceramic but lol it's some of the most brittle plastic you'll see in one of those (and that's saying a lot!), be careful. The starter is bolted to the engine but there's iirc a block plate or something you have to get at under the starter to split the bell flange? Idk I've never yanked a sbc with the starter in place but I can't remember why lol. Might even just be for the extra room, and even just for that reason it's probably a good idea.
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Dec 12, 2022 08:03
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It's not hard to do the starter, I had to swap one in a parking lot once on my 99 and it was just two bolts and two nuts to take off.
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Dec 12, 2022 15:05
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Yeah, I managed to get both yesterday. I might need to get a socket on the knock sensor nut to get it off depending on whether the new engine still has its sensor on but I got the wire disconnected and that made it easy to get the starter out, the issue was that the plug for the knock sensor was getting in the way of getting the starter all the way out. Now for the terrifying part, getting the last two bellhousing bolts off and wiggling it loose from the transmission. I've got all four wheels chocked but if it manages to roll somehow I might as well not even get out of the way because it will hit my friend's fiancee's prized Land Cruiser. I'm also really hoping this hoist goes high enough to get over the grill because I don't want to have to jack up the truck, remove the front wheels, and lower it to get another 6"-10" of clearance.
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Dec 12, 2022 17:13
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Do you not have the driveshaft disconnected yet? If you do, no reason the truck should start rolling when you pull the transmission. If you don't, you should figure out if it's going to roll as soon as you take the transmission out of park to remove the driveshaft. Other alternative on the engine is going to be removing the cooling stack / core support / grille, but I suspect dropping the truck to the ground will be less work.
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Dec 12, 2022 17:19
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Depending on how much time you have pulling the core support makes cleaning everything a lot easier. Took care of a lot of crud buildup on the core support itself and front end in general last time I pulled an engine out.
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Dec 12, 2022 19:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do you not have the driveshaft disconnected yet? If you do, no reason the truck should start rolling when you pull the transmission. Oh I'm not removing the transmission, I'm removing the engine. I just know once the engine is pulled out I no longer have any engine braking from the transmission being in gear. I've got the parking brake on which hasn't ever failed to work but also needs replacing at some point. I've never pulled an engine before so I think some of the anxiety is first time jitters.
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Dec 12, 2022 20:46
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Well pulling the transmission out of gear will tell you, but just as important - does that actually have a front transmission mount? Or do you have a jack supporting the transmission? Unless the manuals are different, GM likes to just support their transmission with a chunk of rubber at the very back and you're going to get a faceful of bellhousing when you split the two if it's not supported. You really shouldn't be doing this work if you aren't sure the vehicle is stable. Edit: and also, the only things left keeping you from pulling the transmission are probably all simple things like the shifters, clutch hydraulics, speedo/reverse wiring, driveshafts, and transmission mount. You're going to make your life hell trying to line things back up with the transmission in the truck when you go to put things back together. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 21:31
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It only seems to have one transmission mount, thanks for the heads-up on that. I don't have a transmission jack specifically, just normal floor jacks and jack stands. Fake edit: I just remembered a friend of mine is down on the Front Range, I'm going to ask him to pick up a HF transmission jack while he's down there and I'll pay him back. How would dropping the transmission help with re-mounting the engine? Or is it a matter of it's easier to maneuver the transmission into mating with the engine than vice versa? I do have a new transmission mount either getting here today or Wednesday so I was planning on replacing it if feasible. You're right, I should pop it in neutral and maybe even rock it a bit to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. I sometimes have irrational fears, it took me years to be comfortable with being under a car on jack stands. Then again I'm pretty sure those were Harbor Freight jack stands so maybe it wasn't so irrational.
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Dec 12, 2022 23:04
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From experience, the scissor lift-style transmission jacks are entirely inadequate for a transmission + transfer case. They don’t handle unbalanced loads.
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Dec 12, 2022 23:56
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