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i only know the ones that actually sell the stuff like ttcombat or pworks, i havent seen one selling files to print  messing around with a modular path thing too, so many ideas. 
queeb fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Dec 17, 2022 |
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Dec 17, 2022 05:03
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I purchased a little hobby drawer that I really like from a going out of business sale. The company went defunct. I am going to try and replicate it and print one out and see if it works. If it does I can share the file with you! I think the glowforge would actually be perfect for making decorative army bases for displaying them. Like just use cheap draftboard and cut a bunch of 32mm or 25mm or 40mm or whatever holes, place that on a blank piece of wood, use a little putty or clay to slope the edges or whatnot, and it would work out great and be really clean.
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Dec 17, 2022 05:40
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Doctor Zero posted:Oof. Heavy is overkill for anything other than vehicles and terrain. Shift that down, and you’ve got it (medium only on bottoms of feet or lower non visible surfaces, and light everywhere else). Mini supports on fine details like noses, fingers, hair, claws, etc). Your models won’t look like pox survivors that way. That's why heavy supports go on the bottom of their feet, or under a rib cage on half of a model that's going to get glued together or something like that. Totally sacrificial areas that don't show up. Makes drat sure right from the start the model is going to stay anchored, and any sort of thought put in to the placement means the effect on the outcome is meaningless.
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Dec 17, 2022 07:02
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bird food bathtub posted:That's why heavy supports go on the bottom of their feet, or under a rib cage on half of a model that's going to get glued together or something like that. Totally sacrificial areas that don't show up. Makes drat sure right from the start the model is going to stay anchored, and any sort of thought put in to the placement means the effect on the outcome is meaningless. If I am doing my own supports I always like to do a heavy on the bottom of each boot.
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Dec 17, 2022 07:07
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Any hints for making prints have better bottoms? All the resin prints I've done with flat bottoms end up having the base being pretty bumpy and warped, regardless of size. I pretty much always tilt by 45 degrees, and the rest of the detail looks great.
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Dec 17, 2022 07:18
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queeb posted:i only know the ones that actually sell the stuff like ttcombat or pworks, i havent seen one selling files to print You could make some decent money selling roads for Gaslands
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Dec 17, 2022 23:32
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I just bought a kilo of Anycubic grey resin to top op, and I've noticed that it appears to be alot more... Yellow, and more transparent than the 500g I had previously. Same brand and everything. See a pic of a mini I printed on the previous resin compared to this one. Is this a quality control difference or is it likely the resin just got more UV exposure sitting in the vat or something? 
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Dec 18, 2022 02:14
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Silhouette posted:You could make some decent money selling roads for Gaslands Dang yeah, it's almost perfect, could make big long pieces to make a track. Is there a general guideline on road sizes for gaslands?
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Dec 18, 2022 03:08
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IIRC it's something like 4 1/2" for a 4 lane road, 1" per lane and 1/2" for the dividing line Edit: but a little bigger is usually better, since there's no standard road size
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Dec 18, 2022 03:20
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Silhouette posted:IIRC it's something like 4 1/2" for a 4 lane road, 1" per lane and 1/2" for the dividing line awesome, I might play around with a 4" 2 lane road, allowing shoulders on either side, see how that looks planned out. 4" x 10" long pieces, fit 4 on a board. think pre-engraved lines on it is worth it?  something like that is 4" across, gives 1.4" per lane, has a shoulder, 10" long, totally paintable and can beat it up to make it look like a worn road, but could also sell em just blank, just the tiles. edit: when i get ideas i just need to do them right away lol  
queeb fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Dec 18, 2022 |
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Dec 18, 2022 04:34
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Isometric Bacon posted:I just bought a kilo of Anycubic grey resin to top op, and I've noticed that it appears to be alot more... Yellow, and more transparent than the 500g I had previously. Same brand and everything. It looks like there’s less pigment in it. Did you shake it up well? It shouldn’t make a difference assuming it’s not a bad batch or it’s not expired or something.
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Dec 18, 2022 13:34
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Isometric Bacon posted:I just bought a kilo of Anycubic grey resin to top op, and I've noticed that it appears to be alot more... Yellow, and more transparent than the 500g I had previously. Same brand and everything. Depending on where you are at, if it got cold during transit that could be 'not good' but it looks like the resin at least prints successfully.
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Dec 18, 2022 19:47
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Anycubic has, confusing, two versions of a lot of resins. Is it possible you purchased V1 or V2 instead of the one you had previously?
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Dec 18, 2022 21:02
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Anyone with an Anycubic Wash & Cure know how to stop every single part from partaking in a race to be the first to fall off the platform during curing? The little bumps do nothing. I'm thinking of building a little ledge on the edge of the platform out of aluminum foil. And speaking of that same station, what do people use, if anything, to line the wash basket so small parts don't fall through / poke down into the fan?
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Dec 18, 2022 22:01
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I haven't had any issues with the elegoo equivalent yet, but you could find a small silicone mat and stick that on? Could even just cut a bit off a cheap baking mat or something. As for the cage of death, you could line it with a fine stainless steel mesh. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Fine+steel+mesh&crid=30L1TTDCXT0U9&sprefix=fine+steel+mesh%2Caps%2C208&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Which is what I'm considering ever since I saw some youtuber doing it.
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Dec 18, 2022 22:41
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Lumpy posted:Anyone with an Anycubic Wash & Cure know how to stop every single part from partaking in a race to be the first to fall off the platform during curing? The little bumps do nothing. I'm thinking of building a little ledge on the edge of the platform out of aluminum foil. For the curing plate, I use plastic wrap. The kitchen kind. Or you can also use the plastic cling sheeting that every resin printer has wrapped around the cover. Appliances often have them too. For the wash basket all you need is steel window screen material. It’s cheap at a hardware store, or if you use it as an excuse to fix a torn screen, then just use the old stuff.
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Dec 18, 2022 23:47
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Lumpy posted:Anyone with an Anycubic Wash & Cure know how to stop every single part from partaking in a race to be the first to fall off the platform during curing? The little bumps do nothing. I'm thinking of building a little ledge on the edge of the platform out of aluminum foil. I have it and do not have this problem, is it spinning fast? It should be very slow.
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Dec 19, 2022 01:58
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I have the elegoo mercury wash station set for myself and purchased my sister and father the Anycubic 2 in 1. It definitely rattles the parts off the spinning plate and is super annoying. I did not find a good way to fix it, since I was only there for a little bit with my family printing stuff, but will ask my sister if she has a solution. I know exactly what you are talking about, and you have to be careful because if they rattle off and you are not paying attention because you are loading up the next print you can get a car crash jam up and break some of the delicate bits of the minis.
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Dec 19, 2022 08:02
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I have the wash and cure too and I can also chime in and say I haven't had it rattle anything off or spin too fast. It's usually pretty rock solid. ...except for that time I hit 'wash' instead of 'cure' and my parts flew everywhere. Lucky it has a lid.
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Dec 19, 2022 10:38
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Hmm, I bet the table it is sitting on isn't perfectly level (the joys of a house that's over a hundred years old... nothing is square or level) and that's causing them to want to shift a lot. Going to try the cling-wrap trick, and also check level on it. Thanks for all the feedback / ideas!
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Dec 19, 2022 14:20
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Just in time for Christmas!   Might push the details a bit further but pretty happy with it. Minus the octopuses this was all down with drybrushing and a pass with an airbrush
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Dec 20, 2022 05:16
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Wow thats cool. It looks like it opens up, does it have an interior?
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Dec 20, 2022 05:49
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queeb posted:i only know the ones that actually sell the stuff like ttcombat or pworks, i havent seen one selling files to print This is great, I recommend adding little notches or puzzle piece style things to hold the pieces together on the table when assembled. I've found that, with 3D printing especially, having something built in to force things to line up goes such a long way.
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Dec 20, 2022 05:55
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Bucnasti posted:Wow thats cool. Yeah each floor is done up. Pretty basic interior though, it's meant to be for dnd but in hindsight I probably should have scaled it up 15% for that
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Dec 20, 2022 05:59
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Isometric Bacon posted:I just bought a kilo of Anycubic grey resin to top op, and I've noticed that it appears to be alot more... Yellow, and more transparent than the 500g I had previously. Same brand and everything. Not sure if this is what's happening with your resin, but on my end I've been using elegoo grey resin and noticed that it darkens over time, when I pour some from a new bottle into a vat containing some old resin there's a very distinct contrast between the two. It all gets mixed up fine during the first print though.
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Dec 20, 2022 07:01
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So, I realised that this wasn't my new resin, it was the dregs of my old resin. That explains it! Or so I thought. I added some of the brand new, just opened resin,and gave it a really good shake this time. Poured it out .. and it looks just as yellow / slightly translucent. End print, the same. Bizarre. Many of my old prints are quite dark, and look good enough to leave unprimed. These ones definitely need some paint.
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Dec 20, 2022 14:28
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Isometric Bacon posted:So, I realised that this wasn't my new resin, it was the dregs of my old resin. That explains it! Or so I thought. You should always prime before painting. Everything. Gives a nice foundation for paint to adhere and makes the base color look better and smoother.
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Dec 20, 2022 19:47
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I am using my glowforge to make a custom base holder/platoon holder thingy for my Krieg forces. It is a lot of fun. I will show off the beta version. I am wondering if I want to do it in a nicer plywood or do it again in MDF and paint... Will show pics later!
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Dec 20, 2022 23:56
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OK, my picture is below. Sorry for the delay, I went to a holiday party. I printed this out on MDF/Draftboard and had some lessons learned. I thought that there was a lot of waste cutting out the holes where the figures will go so I decided I could make use of them and make them little tokens or counters. Unfortunately I came up with this idea after the first round of cuts, and the Glowforge had a little bit of alignment trouble it seems like, unfortunately. Anything it prints in a single session comes out perfect, but coming back after the fact and doing another layer on top seems to be really hard. Second mistake I made was the light engraving of the Eagle was originally outside the bounds and I didn't notice so it didn't get cut and I had to do that after the fact as well, although that mistake is easy enough to fix. I also made the command squade base holes 32mm instead of 28.5mm. Again, easy enough fix. This is, again, just the draft idea. The final version is going to be two pieces. One thin back board and then all these individual ones on top. The eagle will be engraved on the tops and bottoms though, which should look cool. I am trying to figure out the best way to get the individual stands to attach to the bottom board. Maybe magnets or maybe some dowels or something. Also, the upper right area which is blank here, on the finished product will have some Krieg style line art on the base plate in that area, and if I can figure it out a small box to hold the counters. I am trying to figure out realistically how many of each counter I need for each platoon. I wanted to use the upper right area originally for a heavy weapons squad, but 3 60mm bases wouldn't quite fit nicely. The end plan is to have a plate for all my 40k forces. Obviously multiple plates per Army, as needed, but each one will have a different symbol or maybe even different wood used. This plate is German themed because I printed out like 100 grimguard/Krieg guys getting ready for the new codex. (100 IG guys for less than 50 bucks is amazing!). The Cadians I have that came in the big new box are going to be 101st airborne themed, Easy Company. I am doing this because the big square kneepads they have look just like the reinforced m42 uniforms. Then all my old Cadians I am going to dress up as either Glider Infantry or standard Rifle Infantry. This will be a good and thematic way to explain away the difference between the new and old Cadian sculpts in the same army. The plate for them will of course feature actual Easy company names and symbols. The german one here I just came up with using a list of most popular german baby names of the time period. Although I guess a little booboo is that those are all first names. I assume foreign militaries go by last name, like ours does, but I am not sure. But the Krieg Army goes by first names, so I am good. I am getting an order of wood from Home Depot in a few days and will see what I can make! 
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Dec 21, 2022 07:20
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Trip Report: cling wrap on the plate of the wash & cure kept parts where they should be! A big thanks to everyone for all the advise. I'm glad I took the plunge, as I've been printing all sorts of stuff and having a blast.
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Dec 21, 2022 19:01
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Anything it prints in a single session comes out perfect, but coming back after the fact and doing another layer on top seems to be really hard. This is one of the most frustrating parts of the Glowforge and I don't know why they don't adjust for it in software. I think maybe at this point they have a fix for it but I think they lock it behind their bullshit $60 a month service or whatever.
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Dec 21, 2022 19:14
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Looks awesome, but do NOT use the Aquila if you sell those or else GW will 
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Dec 21, 2022 19:16
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Doctor Zero posted:Looks awesome, but do NOT use the Aquila if you sell those or else GW will just erase the heads off the png? and maybe that'll be enough
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Dec 21, 2022 19:40
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They are for personal use only, at this point, especially because the line art I am adding to the upper right is just stuff I right clicked and saved off deviantart or GIS. If I were to sell them I am not sure they would be a worthwhile endeavor, due to the customization needs and whatnot. That being said... the little soldiers don't need individual names so I could make something up that is relatively generic but still looks nice. Is there an easy way to figure out what symbols/designs are considered common use and which are protected by GW? Obviously the Aquilla is theirs, at least with the block design, but the same similar image that is the flag/symbol of the Holy Roman Empire is public domain. The Chaos symbols I would assume are all copyright, but maybe some are generic? I looked at GW's copyright and trademark page but it seems to cast a wider net than they can realistically enforce. Also I have glowforge Premium, so I don't think that fixes the issue in regards to laser accuracy on multicuts.
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Dec 21, 2022 20:11
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That’s the $40,000 question. (eh? eh?)  You want to avoid using their art directly, natch. Things like the 8 arrow star have roots that go way back before GW existed, so as long as you don’t copy it directly, you should be fine. Similarly, don’t use army icons, but I don’t see how they can complain if you make your own angel holding a sword, or a raven crying blood or whatever. I mean poo poo, they tried to trademark “space marines” and “elder” for gently caress sake. I wish the ghost of Tolkien would show up at their office one day. It’s really ludicrous how,litigious they are about poo poo they ripped off someone else. But w/e.
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Dec 22, 2022 00:08
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To my knowledge their litigious nature backfired on them about a decade ago when they tried to enforce a trademark of Space Marine or Imperial Guard and lost, invalidating a lot of their trademarks. I think this is why we got the fake latin names, but I am not sure.
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Dec 22, 2022 00:46
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IncredibleIgloo posted:To my knowledge their litigious nature backfired on them about a decade ago when they tried to enforce a trademark of Space Marine or Imperial Guard and lost, invalidating a lot of their trademarks. I think this is why we got the fake latin names, but I am not sure. Yeah, that's why Age of Sigmar has weird rear end names for every drat thing since they couldn't enforce copyright on 'dark elf' or 'dragon knight' and similar poo poo. It's also why they changed all their paint names to ludicrous things.
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Dec 22, 2022 00:48
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Avoid using obviously trademarked things like the aquila in your designs but the real no-no is using trademarked terms in your names and descriptions, that's where they won their court case and have the law firmly on their side. It's why the pirates use terms like "Beefy Boy" instead of Primaris, and "Greater Good Space Communist" instead of Tau.
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Dec 22, 2022 02:50
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IncredibleIgloo posted:To my knowledge their litigious nature backfired on them about a decade ago when they tried to enforce a trademark of Space Marine or Imperial Guard and lost, invalidating a lot of their trademarks. I think this is why we got the fake latin names, but I am not sure. The naming thing backfired hard, but anything with logos will get you nailed hard. Especially on etsy, you can be in the right and still get hit by their bots so play ot extra cautious. I had 90% of my store taken down by a bot at one point for a month over it
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Dec 22, 2022 06:32
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Bucnasti posted:Avoid using obviously trademarked things like the aquila in your designs but the real no-no is using trademarked terms in your names and descriptions, that's where they won their court case and have the law firmly on their side. It's why the pirates use terms like "Beefy Boy" instead of Primaris, and "Greater Good Space Communist" instead of Tau. 2pi snags a bit of tau, took a minute to click for me. I like the clever names.
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Dec 22, 2022 07:38
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