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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


STR posted:

Ugh, my Outback had the same poo poo, except in addition to one outer light getting water in it, the entire center piece was too. At least the lights on the hatch have their own tiny little harness, so you can swap the sockets when they get to that point. The outers don't.

Incorrect.
There is a plug just inside of the grommet. The whole taillight, sockets and all, is removeable. I took the sockets inside the garage to clean them up.

I tested the Plas-Tex repair stuff on the housings, but they're not ABS-compatible - probably polycarbonate of some sort. So I flowed some super-glue into the cracks to see if I could get them to seal. Planning to sand and polish the repair, but it actually didn't look that noticeable. Less so that the raw cracks, anyway. I put them back on the car as-is, because my wife needed to go somewhere, but I'll take another look this weekend while sorting out some other small stuff.
I also tweaked the mounting on the reversing camera - I had it pointing a bit low. Was still useful, but you couldn't see more than about 5-6' behind the car. I aimed it up so that the rear bumper is just out of view at the edge of the picture.


quote:

On the fuel smell, I know the 2.5 had a hose that tended to leak on the passenger side, at the front (tried to find a photo in my imgur, but not having any luck). It was a 3" long rubber section that connected two hard lines; I don't know if the 3.0 has it too, but it was a common complaint on the outback forums. The evap hose had also rotted away, but it had started throwing a CEL for an evap leak by then.

I tightened the four hose clamps on the two rubber lines previously - one was definitely leaking then, is not now. All of the smell was up by the filter. They are also a pain in the everloving rear end to get to, because Subaru insisted on putting them underneath some substantial steel (heat?) shields.

quote:

On the Ford, that 200 amp alternator likes to sit at 14.4. if you ever see it any lower, either the battery has a shorted cell, or that pulley is slipping. My $50 Walmart nEverstart Value doesn't seem to appreciate it, it already looks like it's boiled at some point. But I don't expect this battery to make it out of warranty anyway. When it starts getting weak I'll drop a good battery in it again after I do ball joints... they're starting to sound like my knees and hips

Thing has been parked at 14.4 every time I've looked at it since replacement. :thumbsup:

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


cursedshitbox posted:

I could stick weld with this thing and it literally would not care.

There's a way to use P71 (basically 3G poo poo) with a different case as the Mod engines have their own mounting style. Reasons mentioned above by Motronic is why I went the industrial route. Should also say that shy of bearings, it's extremely easy to overhaul with regulators + brushes and the diode trio can be done without removing the unit from service.

E: also these are usually rated pretty conservatively and will with a little work Poo out double the power.

I was going to say that the P71 alternators mount rigid to the intake, so mounting on the truck would be a challenge.

Also, is that the slip ring and brushes sticking out the back? Like, serviceable without disassembling the alternator? If so - how novel! Looks like it might also have a sizable bearing back there too, rather than the usual "big one in front and tiny one in back" arrangement?

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
yup! The brushes/slip ring sit out back under the little white cover. Has giant beefy bearings in it. To service the brushes just unbolt the two bolts that hold the regulator in place and lift the assembly out.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
You can actually do exactly that on many Nippon denso alts too, the brushes, regulator (if any, many were externally regulated by the ECU), and rectifier pack are all just under a tin cover on the back, not inside the back half casting where it has to be disassembled to reach it.

Captain Crabsticks
Feb 17, 2007
Did some more things, did all the suspension and now the car's "done" until i decide to do the next stage of serious power mods (probably won't be long)
my surprisingly cheap but also dope suspension combo-
KYB AGX adjustable shocks - 768$ with below springs on ebay
Vogtland springs
ITR front sway bar - 180$ on marketplace
A-spec racing rear subframe brace and 24mm sway bar with spherical endlinks- 360$ on sale
under 1300$ for a solid competent setup if you don't need height adjustment, I had a very similar setup on one of my previous integras and it worked mint




It handles so dang good now even with my mediocre tires on steelies, I thought the tires were more sketch but it was really my blown out coilovers. It finally has more grip than I have skill, can't wait to put some sticky summers and get some real seat time in the spring

also, i made the mistake of adding up the parts cost so far, since I bought the car june 1st I've put 5982$ in parts and machine work into this loving thing, paid 5500 for the dang car itself. worst part is I only really consider it a solid platform to build on now lmao atleast it's been done right so far

Captain Crabsticks fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Dec 3, 2022

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



On the FiST:

New shift knob, Cobb Accessport, motor mount, and air filter.

It’s like a frenetic weasel in first and second gear now. Saw 22psi on oito test drive.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


cursedshitbox posted:

yup! The brushes/slip ring sit out back under the little white cover. Has giant beefy bearings in it. To service the brushes just unbolt the two bolts that hold the regulator in place and lift the assembly out.

kastein posted:

You can actually do exactly that on many Nippon denso alts too, the brushes, regulator (if any, many were externally regulated by the ECU), and rectifier pack are all just under a tin cover on the back, not inside the back half casting where it has to be disassembled to reach it.

This is the kind of design work I expect from engineers who have actually had to use or service the thing.



Don't tell my wife, but I bought her a remote start and an underseat subwoofer for her Outback for Christmas!
I think I'll replace the factory McIntosh amp while I'm in there. I built an adapter form RCA to the DIN cable it has, but got a slight alternator whine that research says "happens" with those.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Darchangel posted:

This is the kind of design work I expect from engineers who have actually had to use or service the thing.



Don't tell my wife, but I bought her a remote start and an underseat subwoofer for her Outback for Christmas!
I think I'll replace the factory McIntosh amp while I'm in there. I built an adapter form RCA to the DIN cable it has, but got a slight alternator whine that research says "happens" with those.

Make sure the device and amp on both ends of the RCA cable are powered from the same source and grounded to the exact same point, this may eliminate the problem.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


chrisgt posted:

Make sure the device and amp on both ends of the RCA cable are powered from the same source and grounded to the exact same point, this may eliminate the problem.

It's not an RCA. It's a DIN cable, has to have a (home-made) adapter, and it's a known issue that apparently no one has solved. Mind you, few have tried.
Possibly some sort of impedance mismatch, or Clarion just did something that was clever for the bespoke head unit coupled with the amp, but hates other head units.
Not really a big deal - I'll replace the amp. To be honest, it's a pretty low noise volume. You can't really hear it over the music or road noise while moving at any speed.

Edit: if you mean for the replacement amp, yeah. I used to install mobile electronics for a living.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
Decided it wasn't worth risking the rubber squeeze out on my 330k mile 7.3 crank damper anymore. Had to make a balancer holder long enough to hit the passenger side frame rail as well as a cup that fit the bearing on my installer tool.

Froze my rear end off today and got the LPOP and damper on, just have to put the fan and shroud back on tomorrow morning.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
The future sucks but also it owns.

back in the old days if you wanted something in your poo poo tractor you'd need to run a buncha wire and fuses and switches and all this loving antique poo poo that belongs in a museum.
Now you edit hex tables in the controller to switch poo poo on and off. I dumped the roms of a truck before I took ownership of it and populated what the tables do.

Cue the week of putting six new tires on, getting its service status up to date.

Spent the afternoon reconfiguring the truck via forscan. DPF status enabled in the cluster, compass, drls, fast blink disabled. Global window entry though this has potatoes for door modules and it doesn't work. Bonus. Sync1 works now.
There's a buncha things I wanna add but those are future projects. I've bled enough cash into this fucker this week.


The service:

two hours for the coolant. 10 gal fluid. needed the oil cooler to pump hose.
two hours for the transmission flush. 5 gal fluid.
half hour engine oil. 3.25 gal fluid.
hour for fuel filters
hour for PAS flush. 1 gal fluid.
hour for brake flush. 1 gal fluid.
two point five for the intake scrubbing.
hour for the accessory belt and air filter.

fucker weighs in at 9400lb. 4880 out front, 4520 out back. Solid 2200lb more than the bricknose. Using the camper's 2021 weights it'll have about 12 thou pounds worth of trailer capacity available.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I see you've discovered the wonders of FORScan.
e: derp, you even said it was with forscan. ignore me.

Previa_fun
Nov 10, 2004

STR posted:

I see you've discovered the wonders of FORScan.
e: derp, you even said it was with forscan. ignore me.

I've heard having forscan is great but I was circumcised at birth

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Stop talking about your FORScans.

Talking about other posters' FORScans is fine, though.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Previa_fun posted:

I've heard having forscan is great but I was circumcised at birth

You can force it to grow back

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

STR posted:

You can force it to grow back

Sorta like when the PO ignores the nice heatshrinked covered wiring broken out of the harness to be cut on by all the crudest implements but rather they go in and cut the loving harness up leaving it permanently exposed and slowly degrading into something that's loving annoying..


The 550 had some ....interesting wiring modifications. Right side headlamp pigtail? cut off. Two power points on the column? left cut open and dangling. big ground splice in the column, left bare and open. Upfitter breakouts? untouched. cheap aftermarket brake controller screwed into the dash, but using a proper adapter cable. Otherwise that's the extent of its wiring bullshit. Not like the 350 where there's two short sections of harness that's original...

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Sounds like the 550 had something like a Secure Idle and wig wags. I'm glad my car didn't have any kind of idle controller (... at least, I haven't found any evidence of one), only fuckery has been with the lighting. All. Of. The. Lighting. The only plug-in thing they used was a wig wag adapter, one that actually used the plug in front of the radiator. :stare: I still have a mess of wiring in the trunk that I'm pretending doesn't exist, because when I disconnect any of it, I lose all rear lighting, or my headlights flash with my turn signals, or the headlights come on with the brakes, or the car stops shifting/reverse lights stay on, or 2-4 fuses pop when I step on the brakes, etc etc etc. I need a full day and some schematics to unfuck that mess. It's mostly twist and tape too, not even crimped or wire nutted.

I mean... not that you couldn't order secure idle from Ford as part of a fleet package, right? Oh wait, you could. They also give you a connector under the hood for wig wags, at least on the Crown Vics (and I assume on anything else that could be used for construction, towing, or emergency vehicles). But it seems like most upfitters ignore the easy way and go to splice town.

Does the 550 at least have a chipped key, or is it fleet keyed? Might want to do some kind of immobilizer hackery if it's fleet keyed.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Dec 19, 2022

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
That's... a lot of fuckery even for a p71. That almost warrants finding an uncut harness in the yards to use as a fresh source to build on then swap over.

I'm not sure of its exact use case outside of oil/gas exploration. It's from Odessa Texas and has been all loving over the midwest.
It has? had? some fast idle software bit built in.

The key is chipped. I'm going to add remote start sooner or later. Forscan lets me do all sorts of poo poo with the security system as is.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Well I learned the hard way that plugging a taillight bulb in backwards... backfeeds every exterior light, including the headlights. Weird poo poo, but apparently that's A Thing (at least on P71s, I've run across others trying to figure out why every light came on with the brakes after they swapped to cheap LED bulbs that aren't keyed properly), and it winds up popping fuses. I'm guessing somewhere the parking and brake light circuits are somehow tied together where they shouldn't be, but it doesn't reveal itself until I unfuck part of the wiring.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
How in the gently caress do you even plug a bulb in backward?

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Nidhg00670000 posted:

How in the gently caress do you even plug a bulb in backward?

Not quite the same but when I was a kid my mother replaced a double filament bulb with a single filament bulb so every time she braked the headlights flashed. She then sold the car because it was “broken”.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Nidhg00670000 posted:

How in the gently caress do you even plug a bulb in backward?

This absolute gem will explain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baY3SaIhfl0

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015


Thanks for this I’d never seen it and I laughed my rear end off

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


My wife showed it to me and I just broke down because it was too real.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Nidhg00670000 posted:

How in the gently caress do you even plug a bulb in backward?

The 2157s in the CV aren't really solidly keyed.



To be fair, that's what QA testing is for. You made it so the other bits could fit, so someone will - you just discovered Murphy's Law.

edit: Murphy's Law is often mis-used as "if anything can go wrong, it will", but that's Finagle's Law, often with the addendum "in the most perverse manner possible". Muphy's Law is "if it's possible to do it wrong, someone will." So you design stuff so it can't be done wrong - keyed connectors, etc. That brick bucket isn't designed well enough to defeat Murphy. See, Finagle is about the perversity of the universe. Murphy is about the perversity of people.

edit edit: and the 2157 socket isn't keyed strongly enough to not do it backwards.

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Dec 20, 2022

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
modern tech solves this issue by getting rid of the qa team, saying they're going to do 100% unit test coverage, and treating the users as testers

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Powershift posted:

It has wheels so it counts :colbert:

We woke up to 3' heavy wet snow drifts.

I did as much of the block as i could to get some gas run through it.



A Saint among Men

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

there's so many good remixes of this joke but

https://twitter.com/TiredActor/status/1583544879656771584

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


BlackMK4 posted:

modern tech solves this issue by getting rid of the qa team, saying they're going to do 100% unit test coverage, and treating the users as testers

The Tesla FSD Model.




Genuinely laughed out loud. Thanks!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

BlackMK4 posted:

modern tech solves this issue by getting rid of the qa team, saying they're going to do 100% unit test coverage, and treating the users as testers

And this is why I have an absolutely burning hatred for nearly every mobile app and website I use on a regular basis... Except this one and torque pro, basically. They shovel garbage software onto my phone, press gang me into testing it, AND THEN MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO ACTUALLY REPORT BUGS. feel like I'm screaming into the void an awful lot and it just never ever gets better, and even if I waste my friends time (he works at meta, poor bastard) getting a ticket filed for a bug, they'll fix it and then literally break it again a few weeks later because they don't do regression testing either.

If I report bugs to imgur and discord and slack they make very contrite apology noises and ask for logs and more info and then say they can't reproduce a bug that's been an issue literally for years and I simply stop responding because it's a total waste of time.

God it pisses me off. These assclowns make more money than I do designing hardware and if I had ever done my job even a hundredth as badly as they do, I'd be fired with cause within weeks.

Alright, that's enough derail ranting out of me. What'd I do to my car? Well I put a new headlight switch in the Honcho and now the instrument panel backlights work which is nice, and also re-loomed my rear wiring harness after adding two wires for my rear axle speed sensor so the ECU knows how fast I'm going, which will really help when I finish wiring up the cruise control switch shortly. Remains to be seen how it responds to being in a manual vehicle with no clutch safety switch, I may have to add one of those too.

E: and designed and ordered an aluminum clamping plate for my fuel sending unit on the Honcho as well, but sendcutsend had an accident and had to remake it, so it only arrived a few days after I flew back east and won't get installed for several weeks now.

kastein fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Dec 20, 2022

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




BlackMK4 posted:

modern tech solves this issue by getting rid of the qa team, saying they're going to do 100% unit test coverage, and treating the users as testers

gently caress that. I work with embedded firmware on tools that will maim kill and become a “thermal event” and its 100% unit testing, integration testing, physical hardware in loop, functional testing, and this rear end in a top hat named Doug who smashes every button simultaneously while twiddling the other just right so it somehow overflows your stack and makes the thing eat your hand. And that is still followed by a healthy “did we do everything possible to prevent Doug from killing his wife and two small children by doing this in his Garage and making it light on fire” recap of the above after everything works.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Commodore_64 posted:

gently caress that. I work with embedded firmware on tools that will maim kill and become a “thermal event” and its 100% unit testing, integration testing, physical hardware in loop, functional testing, and this rear end in a top hat named Doug who smashes every button simultaneously while twiddling the other just right so it somehow overflows your stack and makes the thing eat your hand. And that is still followed by a healthy “did we do everything possible to prevent Doug from killing his wife and two small children by doing this in his Garage and making it light on fire” recap of the above after everything works.

this is a good illustration of the difference between a programmer and a software engineer

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
You're making me nervous because my friend Doug in PDX is the 4L80e guy and I think he needs both hands, really.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Nidhg00670000 posted:

How in the gently caress do you even plug a bulb in backward?

On top of what others have said, the aftermarket LED taillamp assemblies (and a lot of LED replacement bulbs) aren't really keyed well at all - the plugs pop in backwards quite easily. Then you have headlights with your brakes.

The ones the PO gave me with my car (which are the most common design)... when plugged in properly, if only one was hooked up, it worked fine. If both were hooked up, I only had one level of brightness regardless of parking lights or brake/turn. If I plugged one connector in backwards, I had the "every exterior light comes on when stepping on the brakes until at least 1 fuse pops" poo poo. I finally figured out if I left one incandescent bulb hooked up on each side, they'd work fine (but I'd have to bury the bulb somehow). Adding resistors didn't do anything (including the ones that came with them). This is when I found the rats nest of twist and taped wires hiding under the trunk carpet and decided I'd deal with that animal another day (constable's cousin's newphew's son strikes again :argh:)

glyph
Apr 6, 2006



STR posted:

On top of what others have said, the aftermarket LED taillamp assemblies (and a lot of LED replacement bulbs) aren't really keyed well at all - the plugs pop in backwards quite easily. Then you have headlights with your brakes.

The ones the PO gave me with my car (which are the most common design)... when plugged in properly, if only one was hooked up, it worked fine. If both were hooked up, I only had one level of brightness regardless of parking lights or brake/turn. If I plugged one connector in backwards, I had the "every exterior light comes on when stepping on the brakes until at least 1 fuse pops" poo poo. I finally figured out if I left one incandescent bulb hooked up on each side, they'd work fine (but I'd have to bury the bulb somehow). Adding resistors didn't do anything (including the ones that came with them). This is when I found the rats nest of twist and taped wires hiding under the trunk carpet and decided I'd deal with that animal another day (constable's cousin's newphew's son strikes again :argh:)

Wait, it actually was a problem with the rear bulb/socket? :aaaaa:

glyph fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Dec 21, 2022

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Ahaha I love that you remembered this from a year ago. Reading too much forums has caused us to carry each other's automotive scars.

another loser
Mar 25, 2001
After going down to the Gambler 500 this past summer to check it out, buddy and I decided we'd definitely be going again and just needed to find the right car. After an exhaustive search, Gambler car acquired. It even made it all the way back home under its own power :cool:

1984 VW Scirocco







Lots of dumb plans for this thing and might start a "build" thread.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

:lol: that rear bumper

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
we got working brakes now, woop



the piston was totally stuck, so i hammered the caliper off and stuck on a reman one. the high end napa units are pretty nice, and the price was right!

just threw it together with the old rotor and pads, but will go back through it and do it properly with new pads and rotors (as well as preventatively replacing the other caliper, why not) in the spring

one step closer to a working vehicle

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Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
passenger side? no worries



driver's side? haha eat my fucc loser



I hit it with some more deep creep and will run at it again in a day or two. I'm already half mentally committed to replacing the hubs and knuckles since the axles might be frozen into them. No harm in trying, but I'm not counting on miracles

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