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SkunkDuster posted:Whoever gets this house after I die is going to hate having to take apart everything I repaired. I use square drive screws for everything and I live in the US where most homeowners don't have a square drive screwdriver in their Wal-Mart toolkit. They will learn the way, the truth, the light.
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Dec 22, 2022 06:23
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| # ? May 23, 2024 17:35 |
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SkunkDuster posted:Whoever gets this house after I die is going to hate having to take apart everything I repaired. I use square drive screws for everything and I live in the US where most homeowners don't have a square drive screwdriver in their Wal-Mart toolkit. Live long enough to become the PO indeed
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Dec 22, 2022 08:18
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SkunkDuster posted:Whoever gets this house after I die is going to hate having to take apart everything I repaired. I use square drive screws for everything and I live in the US where most homeowners don't have a square drive screwdriver in their Wal-Mart toolkit. Wait, how are you my PO right now? Is this some sort of time travel thing? I have square bits, I just typically keep a star bit in the impact, and the impact has a clip to keep a spare bit, so that's where the Phillips lives. Square means I have to go fish around in the basement.
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Dec 22, 2022 09:22
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At least they'll all be uniform over enough time. The worst is needing several different bits. But yes flats are the worst. Square or torx for me.
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Dec 22, 2022 11:28
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My PO used square #2 or #1 the most but in a single piece of wood I've found five different screw types
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Dec 22, 2022 12:03
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Good luck to the next owner and my future self because I always end up needing to randomly use a Philips mixed in with my T25s/T30s so just always have 2 to 3 bits stuck to the driver. Our kids playset does use square bits though.
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Dec 22, 2022 15:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:High humidity is the main way for a door to have problems, because that makes it swell so it doesn't fit in its frame any more. But I've seen issues with doors no longer meeting the strike plate properly due to wood movement, and I could believe that wood movement could cause issues with the hinges or threshold. Both of those wouldn't necessarily be due to high humidity, just due to substantially different humidity from when the door was installed. Disagree, 90% of the door issues I’ve encountered are due to the hinges coming loose. Tightening the screws and/or replacing a few of the screws w a 3” deck screw will fix it I don’t think the doors themselves change shape very much. All the doors nowadays are dimensionally stable sandwiches of MDF/plywood/styrofoam .. Maybe the really old solid wood doors might be sensitive to changes in temperature.. It’s more likely to be the door jamb itself, as those are typically nailed and the nailing can loosen up over time and repeated use
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Dec 22, 2022 17:08
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SkunkDuster posted:Whoever gets this house after I die is going to hate having to take apart everything I repaired. I use square drive screws for everything and I live in the US where most homeowners don't have a square drive screwdriver in their Wal-Mart toolkit. I think you mean Robertson head, thank you very much 
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Dec 22, 2022 17:14
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:I don’t think the doors themselves change shape very much. All the doors nowadays are dimensionally stable sandwiches of MDF/plywood/styrofoam .. Maybe the really old solid wood doors might be sensitive to changes in temperature.. It’s more likely to be the door jamb itself, as those are typically nailed and the nailing can loosen up over time and repeated use Yes, this has generally been my experience. Driving ever-longer screws into the doorframe has been my go-to fix.
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Dec 22, 2022 17:15
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When I get access the the hinges sometime next spring I'll use the longest screw I can, but unfortunately we have a narrow strip of windows on either side of the jamb so there's not a pack of studs that can take a 3-incher next to the hinges.
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Dec 22, 2022 17:39
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Danhenge posted:When I get access the the hinges sometime next spring I'll use the longest screw I can, but unfortunately we have a narrow strip of windows on either side of the jamb so there's not a pack of studs that can take a 3-incher next to the hinges. I feel like most studs could take a 3-incher.
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Dec 22, 2022 18:14
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Can't tell if fishing for a new thread title When will we all just stop fooling ourselves and start mounting doors with lag bolts
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Dec 22, 2022 18:28
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I exclusively use screws that can only be manipulated with bits from my Harbor Freight security bit set
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Dec 22, 2022 18:36
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After the 3" long screws also fell out of my sagging garage entry door, these worked like a charm. Guaranteed it was overkill but I haven't had to fiddle with that door in years! https://zzemscrew.com/shop/zzem-screw/all
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Dec 22, 2022 18:36
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PainterofCrap posted:Eh, they're easy enough to get, especially if you get one of those potpourri bit sets, the ones that come with real crazy poo poo that makes square drive seem positively quaint. I mean, if you ever have to dismantle the enclosures in a public / commercial restroom, you're all set. Every time I have a sit down in my office bathroom, I wonder why they use security hardware to assemble the stalls. Do people actually take the time to disassemble toilet stalls, haul them out, and take them to the scrap yard for $6 worth of scrap steel? Jenkl posted:I think you mean Robertson head, thank you very much I had originally typed Robertson, but thought people might not know what I was talking about. McFeely's crew represent!
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Dec 22, 2022 20:08
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Slotted screws and Allen keys are things that I would ban if I were Emperor
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Dec 22, 2022 20:29
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H110Hawk posted:I feel like most studs could take a 3-incher. There's no stud at all:  I suppose the way that opening is constructed might not be to code at all anymore. Changing it would be difficult because we are in a historic neighborhood & about to get a historic tax credit, so without proof that we are taking it back to something more historic, or unambiguous evidence that the structure is in evidence it would be tough to approve it. Also my wife loves how the whole thing looks and that matters to her a lot more than a door that sticks.
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Dec 22, 2022 20:44
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 Muwahahaha
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Dec 22, 2022 20:51
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I hate phillips screws more than slotted onces, which I don't mind much because I've never experienced as much frustration with those. I do encounter them often because I often work on old stuff. It helps a lot to have a ratcheting bit & brace, a gunsmithing set of slotted, scalloped screwdrivers and a couple of stanley yankee screwdrivers (that take modern bits). A bit & brace is real nice to have for all kinds of screw work, it's my go to tool for difficult stuck screws that an impact won't work on (if it's a slotted screw I skip the impact all together).
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Dec 23, 2022 05:42
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Sash! posted:Slotted screws and Allen keys are things that I would ban if I were Emperor Fun fact you can just slam a torx/star bit into a "allen" (hex) fastener and it will work just fine. (Dis)assembled many an ikea set with one.
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Dec 23, 2022 05:51
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Hed posted:
To quote the OSHA thread: if you keep doing it it's a fetish not an accident.
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Dec 23, 2022 11:25
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Sash! posted:Slotted screws and Allen keys are things that I would ban if I were Emperor Lamp fixtures also need to be standardised. I was strong on ES for a while but I moved houses and I'm back on bayonet which sucks for Ikea bargains. I feel like G24 would be good especially since we have LED lamps which are or can be directional.
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Dec 23, 2022 14:43
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Those g24's seem like an amazing idea but the reality is that the electrical connection from the bulb to the base often sucks.
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Dec 23, 2022 17:17
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more falafel please posted:Wait, how are you my PO right now? Is this some sort of time travel thing? By star do you mean a torx bit? Phillips IS the star shape if you meant the + shape as being star. If you have a life that requires your torx t25 or whatever to always be locked and loaded I really want your life.
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Dec 24, 2022 11:35
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VelociBacon posted:By star do you mean a torx bit? Phillips IS the star shape if you meant the + shape as being star. If you have a life that requires your torx t25 or whatever to always be locked and loaded I really want your life. That’s basically the only screw you can buy in big tubs it feels like. That aren’t drywall screws at least.
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Dec 24, 2022 12:11
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Torx is star and Philips is less bad slotted. Fight me.
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Dec 24, 2022 16:12
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H110Hawk posted:Torx is star and Philips is less bad slotted. Fight me. You're absolutely right. The best thing you can do if you have to use Phillips screws a lot is buy a nice screwdriver like the Wera Lasertip. I imagine other brands like the Wiha are as good. When I got my first laser tip I immediately bought a full set of them for slotted and Phillips, and I don't regret having a backup. The etching on the tip is legit and it grips very well, it'll stand straight out of a screw and hold its own weight. It's gotten a lot of really marginal screws removed for me that I would have expected to strip completely.
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Dec 24, 2022 16:47
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Have a frozen spigot question. Ok so the setup is our furnace is out and won't be replaced until Thursday. Obviously it's loving cold. About 15-25 degrees here. We had space heaters going, but then our power went out yesterday as the cold front moved in. We moved to a hotel for the night. I shut off the water main and ran the pipes clear. BUT I forgot to run the outside spigots clear. I did put faucet covers on them though. I realized last night about 10pm that I forgot to run them clear. I went home from the hotel and the power had just come back on. I used a hair dryer to gently melt the ice in the spigots and seemed like I got them to run clear. Put the covers back on and went back to the hotel. Came home this morning and both are still frozen again. We got the space heaters going back in the house. Question is should I go back and reheat them and get them melted again? It's going to freeze again tonight. The faucet covers don't seem to do jack poo poo of course. Is there anything I can even do to stop the water that stays in there from freezing? Should I just keep the covers on them (and not try to fight a losing battle with the freeze) and keep water trickling through the other indoor faucets to relieve any pressure from them?
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Dec 24, 2022 17:31
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Man your homeownership saga is fun to read, probably less fun to experience. I think frozen pipe is only a problem if it breaks pipes, ya? And if it's already frozen the damage is done. Unless there's more water that has yet to freeze that might freeze if you don't thaw the frozen part. But you said you emptied all the pipe you could, so doesn't sound like more hair dryer treatment will help. As far as keeping it from happening again, do you just mean until the furnace is back? Or after that too? Is it already a frost free spigot? You could install one of those.
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Dec 24, 2022 19:12
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Epitope posted:Man your homeownership saga is fun to read, probably less fun to experience. I think frozen pipe is only a problem if it breaks pipes, ya? And if it's already frozen the damage is done. Unless there's more water that has yet to freeze that might freeze if you don't thaw the frozen part. But you said you emptied all the pipe you could, so doesn't sound like more hair dryer treatment will help. As far as keeping it from happening again, do you just mean until the furnace is back? Or after that too? Is it already a frost free spigot? You could install one of those. Yeah it definitely hasn't been fun. And when it comes to finally replace the EIFS. I'll be sure to post my downward spiral into insanity! As for this current situation, I guess I was just wondering if it made sense to thaw the little bit of frozen water out to relieve pressure. Or if it was just inconsequential at this point since the rest of the house is flowing fine. I imagine it's a only a little bit of an ice plug in there. Also any solutions that are better than those faucet covers since they didn't seem to stop anything from freezing! Those frost free spigots look cool though so I think that'll be the correct solution!
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Dec 24, 2022 19:42
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BonoMan posted:Have a frozen spigot question. I'm not sure how your setup works but the main danger of water freezing is that it expands and is trapped and breaks stuff since ice has more volume than water. If the water main is turned off completely I'd leave the outside faucets turned to open and put on the covers. The idea being that any water trapped that freezes will not be a full pipe or trapped against the valve to break it if it expands. Here we have a shutoff a couple of feet inside the basement and we turn that off and then open the exterior faucet and leave it like that all winter since the pipe itself being cold/freezing with no water trapped in it is fine.
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Dec 24, 2022 19:52
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Yeah we're back now and water is back on. But house isn't super warm (because we're just using space heaters) so I was wondering if it was ok to leave the spigots still frozen if rest of pipes were fine. I went out there with a hair dryer again though and just wanted to see how frozen it might be. It took like 2 seconds before I got blasted by water so it was just a tiny ice pearl. I rewrapped them and I'm guessing it'll be fine. Def gonna install those spigots
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Dec 24, 2022 20:33
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BonoMan posted:Yeah it definitely hasn't been fun. And when it comes to finally replace the EIFS. I'll be sure to post my downward spiral into insanity! The freezing is what causes the problems. Stop thawing it out when it's just going to freeze again. What you need are frost free silcocks. They come in different lengths and the valve is all the way at the back of it - the part that will be INSIDE of your house. When you turn them off everything in front of the valve towards the outside drains out if they were installed properly.
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Dec 24, 2022 21:02
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Motronic posted:The freezing is what causes the problems. Stop thawing it out when it's just going to freeze again. Yeah I looked up those after epitrope mentioned them. Very cool. And yeah I know the freezing is the problem. My (possibly flawed) thinking was that the hard freeze is only for another day so thawing it out a few times could provide enough temp relief to avoid any potential disaster.. as a short term solution
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Dec 24, 2022 21:26
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i just got the shark duo with powerfins HEPA vacuum for xmas, hell yeah this thing is great
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Dec 25, 2022 04:38
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Motronic posted:The freezing is what causes the problems. Stop thawing it out when it's just going to freeze again. Does something like a frost free silcock exist for a single story house that doesn't have a basement or crawl space? If you only have 2x4 walls, it seems that you're guaranteed to have freezing hose bibs and the only option is to drip all of your interior faucets. One of the several aspects I hate about having a 1990s builder home in central texas is how they werent' designed or built to be good in any extreme temps. In other news I finished installing some the "Modular Closets" cabinet/shelf system in my wife's office/spare bedroom. Now I just have to do mine. State of the closet after I tore out the original shelf and hanger. There was just one shelf that wrapped around the back and right side of the closet. I really hate drywall repair and painting, so I patched all the nail holes and then put up 2 coats of paint.  Interior wall so I only have 2 studs that I can see at 24" on center. The right wall is an exterior wall so there were studs at 16", but of course the spacing of the cabinets didn't line up to hit more than one of them. I had a 5'x4' sheet of 3/4" plywood that I ripped down to 4" strips to use as cleats for anchoring the cabinets. I stupidly assumed that all of the horizontal supports on the cabinets would line up at the same heights. Of course that was incorrect, so I had to use strips that I had intended to use in the other closet I'm doing. Oh well.    For my other closet, I am debating trying to do a French cleat by ripping some more plywood strips, and then again ripping those with a 45 deg angle. I'm going to have to look at how all the supports and spacing will be for that closet. But again it looks like nothing will line up other than the top supports, so I'm not sure what the best solution is. Any suggestions that won't result in me having 7 different horizontal pieces of plywood screwed to one wall?  
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Dec 25, 2022 09:32
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MetaJew posted:Does something like a frost free silcock exist for a single story house that doesn't have a basement or crawl space? If you only have 2x4 walls, it seems that you're guaranteed to have freezing hose bibs and the only option is to drip all of your interior faucets
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Dec 25, 2022 13:40
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cover that gap on the left with some moulding, use trim screws if you don't have a finish nailgun regarding your other closet, I don't have any better ideas based on what you're saying but don't sweat it if your solution seems inelegant. There's nothing wrong w a bunch of plywood furring strips so long as they're hidden. Using french cleats is gonna make it much harder to make the adjustments to get everything plumb n level, I'd just do it the same way you did the first one. E: actually, since the plywood is gonna be visible, take the time to paint it beforehand. Nice job making the best of what you've got to deal with 
BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Dec 25, 2022 |
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Dec 25, 2022 15:13
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Slugworth posted:I'd imagine you'd have to line your sillcock up with an interior wall running perpendicular to the exterior wall. Not a lot of help for someone looking to retrofit an existing sillcock, I know. So my home is a single story no crawlspace no basement as well. But! Both spigots are opposite a bathroom vanity. Could I theoretically just run them into under the vanity? Would probably be ugly but potentially work.
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Dec 25, 2022 16:43
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| # ? May 23, 2024 17:35 |
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These things might be an option if a frost free sillcock isn’t. No idea if they work but kind of interesting. https://a.co/d/7EG6jaR
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Dec 25, 2022 18:05
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